raymarine type 1 hydraulic pump manual free sample

Boats with traditional hydraulic steering systems will use an Evolution autopilot driven by a hydraulic pump. The pump connects to the boat"s hydraulic steering lines and allow the autopilot to steer the boat by controlling the flow of fluid through the boat"s steering system. The hydraulic pump is controlled by the Evolution autopilot Actuator Control Unit (ACU.)

The Drive unit is the part that interfaces with your vessel"s steering system to keep you on the right course. Raymarine has a broad range of drive units to match almost any type of steering system - our Evolution Autopilots accommodate hydraulic, mechanical and power assisted stern drive systems.

If you are not sure how to determine what type of steering system is installed on your vessel, please consult an authorized Raymarine dealer or contact us directly by using the form below.

Type 1 Pump 12voltReversing hydraulic pump for use with steering systems equipped with 4.914 cubic inch (80cc 230cc) hydraulic steering rams. The Type 1 hydraulic drive is compatible with both S1/S1G and S2/S2G corepacks. Use the table below to determine the Type 1 hydraulic drive"s capacity when used with each...

Do you have any specifics on the rudder load when you are holding the tiller ? Some measurement of this load , or guess and under what kind of conditions ? It sounds to me that you are going to want to go to a hydraulic drive or a very powerful motor drive unit. I believe the later, powerful drives, are available from Jeffa and possibly Alpha. You don"t have to use their AP with their drive, nor do you have to use the RM brains with the RM drives. For example, your SPX5 can drive a type 1 hydraulic pump, or with a bit of engineering a type 2. The hydraulics are so powerful and forgiving to shock loads, hence you see it used on so much of the heavy machinery out there. It is less efficient , draws more power per ft lb of output, electrically when compared to an efficient electric drive design. Consider separating your brain"s choice from the drive choice. I have used the RM recent brain"s and they do a good job of trying to put the boat in the right place given sea state. Their success, like all AP"s, depends on the drive"s abilities. NKE and BG are true champions for sure, but again no better than the drive.

Do you have any specifics on the rudder load when you are holding the tiller ? Some measurement of this load , or guess and under what kind of conditions ? It sounds to me that you are going to want to go to a hydraulic drive or a very powerful motor drive unit. I believe the later, powerful drives, are available from Jeffa and possibly Alpha. You don"t have to use their AP with their drive, nor do you have to use the RM brains with the RM drives. For example, your SPX5 can drive a type 1 hydraulic pump, or with a bit of engineering a type 2. The hydraulics are so powerful and forgiving to shock loads, hence you see it used on so much of the heavy machinery out there. It is less efficient , draws more power per ft lb of output, electrically when compared to an efficient electric drive design. Consider separating your brain"s choice from the drive choice. I have used the RM recent brain"s and they do a good job of trying to put the boat in the right place given sea state. Their success, like all AP"s, depends on the drive"s abilities. NKE and BG are true champions for sure, but again no better than the drive.

As I understand what you are saying, I can disconnect the tiller drive, and route those two wires to a hydraulic pump attached to a below decks tiller, but at the cost of more electrical draw?

I did ask the Raymarine tech support if their linear drive could be driven off the SPX5 computer and sensor and fluxgate sensor, and he said absolutely not, and that it would only work with the tiller. I cant think of a reason that it wouldn"t work, since the two tiller rams wires simply make it go left or right, as you would presume a hydraulic pilot would. But then my electrical expertise is not very high, so what do I know? It would seem that the risk (purchase of drive expense and installation) would be kind of high unless someone had successfully make this combination. but thanks for the info.

Yes. Here is a video of a system I put on my boat: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3t--EiL2Q60 This is an above deck hydraulic drive. I used non traditional components, for sail boats anyway, to enable a removable above deck solution that is plug compatible with the X5 linear electric drive. I carry the linear drive along as back up when I have the AP with me.

I completed several offshore events with this setup, including the 2012 SHTP. The hydraulics drove about 3000 miles of the solo loop down to Kauai and back. The RM linear stick covered about 1500 of the trip, finally packing it in on my approach to the Farralon"s.

The X5 brain, lacks a "clutch" output, as I recall. If you are going below deck you need a way to disconnect the hydraulics, and that is the clutch function. You could add an above deck switch. If you choose to use something like the Alpha electric drive it has a mechanical, manual, clutch control so the clutch signal is not necessary. I choose to keep my solution above deck as I had a strong fear of finding myself in the stern, below deck, in a large seaway, unbolting a jammed hydraulic cylinder because someones AP controller went south, and it allows completely removing the drag of the hydraulics when hand steering. With my solution one simply raises the tiller an inch and the hydraulics are disconnected.

For the SHTP I made my own electronics. This started as a means to save $$"s on a redundant set of electronics. The silly thing worked well enough that it became my primary AP with the RM being the back up. This short video shows it steering in a good blow near Hunters point: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrqSDrfuvHk&list=UU85HCAreLiiJvgPwvDqdWLQ Here is the advanced version of my AP brain steering an Express 27, getting set up for the SHTP 2014, across the slot (boat is Elise, no hands driver is Serge) : http: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWObyejTb3Ain a typical spring afternoon. In this case this AP is redundant to a top line NKE on board. Either AP can take control with the touch of a button. This is a type 1 hydraulic installation showing, that the mixing and matching of components is trivial.

In the RM line, in my opinion, the control algorithms are the same in any of the gyro enabled designs (pre 2013 products). The differences are the clutch and the drive power. When you move to the Type 2 drive peak currents can get up to about 15 amps so the RM boxes have larger drive components in the brain box, and of course they differentiate on price by a significant margin to gain the added power.

Jim: The Alpha 3000 served Rainbow well on the 2012 SHTP. I completely lack Brian"s technical ability so selected it based on being off-the-shelf resady, fastest advertised lock-to-lock speed, and very low power usage. It steered all the way to Hanalei Bay and back without any problem. Later, it started doing circles on the Bay and I had to send it back to the factory where they discovered the course setting mechanism was loose and was turning in it"s mount when I turned the course knob -- easily fixed, but no explanation for why it came loose.

Has anyone on the forum tried one of the new generation Raymarine pilots like the Raymarine T70158 EV-200 Sail Linear Drive Evolution Autopilot? They are very spendy...wondering if its worth it.

Has anyone on the forum tried one of the new generation Raymarine pilots like the Raymarine T70158 EV-200 Sail Linear Drive Evolution Autopilot? They are very spendy...wondering if its worth it.

For steering with true wind mode, how does your Raymarine autopilot get the GPS data? The apparent wind is on the Seatalk from the wind direction indicator if I remember correctly.

It is not very accurate - my speed transducer is not on the centerline and reads about 4/10 different from one tack to the other, but for this purpose you just want it to steer to the shifts on one tack/gybe and it does that well enough. It cannot handle a squall however. I doubt even a high-end pilot could sail you through a squall in TW mode.

Re Bob"s comment about needing spare ends for the Raymarine rams is good. However, I cured this problem by buying the RayMarine extension fitting (the shortest is enuf) and drilling a new hole in it (to mimic the position of the hole in the plastic end piece which comes with the ram). The extension fittings are aluminum and hold up well for me. I have also had an occasional problem with strippage of the plastic threads on the stock end cap. The aluminum extension cures that rare problem too.

Not having Brian"s skill with electronics, I just go merrily along with what"s available off the shelf. My sailing instruments are RayMarine and they integrate well with the TP4000 and TP4000GP. I often use the "wind mode" (apparent wind setting) on the SHTP. But that method becomes problematic in lite air...less than 5 knots or so apparent.

Bob, do you know which evolution model replaces the X-5 GP? The EV-100 sensor seems to be a much better feedback instrument that the previous fluxgate compass for the X-5 series pilots. It also seems that the only difference between the X-5 and the X-5 GP is the ram. One is more robust than the other.

Brian, I Am interested in the hydraulic ram that you built yourself. In a previous post you mentioned that the RM control box can supply enough "power" to drive a hydraulic setup. Is the hydraulic drive control, for that matter the RM control box simply a "bang bang" output, not an analog output?

Brian, I Am interested in the hydraulic ram that you built yourself. In a previous post you mentioned that the RM control box can supply enough "power" to drive a hydraulic setup. Is the hydraulic drive control, for that matter the RM control box simply a "bang bang" output, not an analog output?

Hi, The RM, like all of these implementations, use a PWM (pulse width modulation) or pulsed output. The pulse rates are in the < 1000Hz range. You can hear the RM output pretty well on your SSB or an AM radio. It sounds to be about 300 Hz to me. So it sends pulses of variouse widths that are all on, or all off, and the integration of same by the motor and hydraulics results in what appears to be an analog output. This approach gives the best efficiency from the drive electronics.

I use a small Type 1 pump from RM that does not include the clutch hydraulic bypass valve, so it is a bit less expensive. Any of the various type 1 pumps will work (Octopus/RM/Furuno/Teleflex).

I drive the hydraulics with two brains, the X5 is my back up and one of my own design is the primary. Both brains also drive the X5 tiller drive. This is another point of redundancy.

The drive unit was from the S1000 AP, used for power boat installations. I cannot find the model in the new catalog, but it is still sold as a part via WM.

The drive unit was from the S1000 AP, used for power boat installations. I cannot find the model in the new catalog, but it is still sold as a part via WM.

Did you use the S1000 pump with it? I would like to build a ram myself to eliminate the above deck electric tiller drive. I would appreciate as much info as you are willing to share.

I used the S1000 pump driving a teleflex hydraulic cylinder. Pressure hoses are Teleflex purchased from a supplier off of ebay who customizes the length and has the tools to crimp the high pressure fittings (up to 1000lbs PSI). The hydraulic cylinder is made for outboard motor and stern drive application and is very seaworthy as it is made for direct exposure in the stern well of a power boat. As I said there is no reason to choose this pump. I choose it for cost and lack of clutch valve, which I did not want to power. The pump is a little nosier than a similar pump used in an NKE installation. The pump lasted me approx 9000 ocean miles until finally the motor brushes wore out. This happened several months back on the bay.

The pump is either driven from my own AP electronics or an X5 controller. It ran night and day on the SHTP and the return trip. I did switch in the X5 tiller want occasionally while doing hydro. fluid refills or just wanting to hear a different note coming from my autopilot.

Oh, one other point, I spoke with the engineers at Teleflex. All their cylinders are made from the same materials. The only real difference is seal pressure ratings. They have two lines, one sounds more like a rugged ocean version. Actually not the case, the difference is the pressure rating. As I recall one line handles up to about 1200 psi, the other somewhat less. I only mention this because the lower cost unit is a very rugged design.

Thanks for all of that Brian. I found this http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=209 chart that shows which pump goes with which cylinder.. it could be useful for finding a cylinder for an existing pump or vice versa. It does not look like I will be saving any money over an electric linear drive, but it should be way more reliable. I do actually have a line on an S1000 pump, and might mate that with the new EV-100 brain and sensor..plus a i70 control head.

I am kind of interested in getting a lower power ram for my system, it presently uses about 6A when the pump motor is on, and the solenoid draws 1A when engaged. I bought a very husky drive on the theory that a electric motor/gear drive would burn out under load. There must be something intermediate though.

They offer just about everything that a home brewer might need.. with the hydraulics being the exeption. It is very affordable stuff as well. Here is a video that shows a self balancing robot that uses cascaded PID control, very similar to what an autopilot would need: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=DmoShkJclLI

They offer just about everything that a home brewer might need.. with the hydraulics being the exeption. It is very affordable stuff as well. Here is a video that shows a self balancing robot that uses cascaded PID control, very similar to what an autopilot would need: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=DmoShkJclLI

For example, in a quartering sea, as a wave approaches the stern will rise first (pitch) and then heel a bit (roll), and then the boat will yaw, say consistently toward the side the wave is on. So a human will anticipate the yaw and counter steer as he feels the pitch change. I believe that this is what is going on with the better pilots like NKE. But most manufacturers don"t talk about what they are doing or even how they are sensing. The Nexus compass has MEMS type accellerometers in it, but they don"t say what kind, and it is not clear that all the data gets sent over the bus to their AP control head, which is a pretty old design.

I get out quite often, last week 3 times (Friday, Saturday, Sunday) Just completed a singlehanded trip from Brookings, OR to Columbia river (Ilwaco, WA) and return, going 100 miles offshore and covering 360 miles (on the return portion) I"m an ABYC certified electrician and have 25 years in industrial controls and automation. My boat has a full keel. We also have a small local race series that runs through the spring/summer/fall...unfortunately it is not well attended. We race every 2 weeks. I can film the pilot with a gopro....I have tuned PID loops for Boiler level control and things like that...might be useful.. also done quite a bit of motion control.

I get out quite often, last week 3 times (Friday, Saturday, Sunday) Just completed a singlehanded trip from Brookings, OR to Columbia river (Ilwaco, WA) and return, going 100 miles offshore and covering 360 miles (on the return portion) I"m an ABYC certified electrician and have 25 years in industrial controls and automation. My boat has a full keel. We also have a small local race series that runs through the spring/summer/fall...unfortunately it is not well attended. We race every 2 weeks. I can film the pilot with a gopro....I have tuned PID loops for Boiler level control and things like that...might be useful.. also done quite a bit of motion control.

It is I, Jim Bates. I have been away from the forum since my original inquiry about autopilots, due to unscheduled clinical depression over sinking my boat shortly after making the inquiry. I just wasnt up to thinking about it. Good news was that it was only in 15 feet of water, bad news of course being that it was still over my head. I just saw Brian and Cliffs very helpful responses, and wanted to thank them for their detailed and very complete and helpful posts.

The other good news is that besides a few tears in the sails, and a broken sleeve in the mast, and a destroyed electrical system, it is repairable. I am installing two automatic bilge pumps in each ama before it leaves the dock again.

There is some collective opinion that for the Raymarine Autopilot, especially the previous X-5, to work well in apparent wind mode, it requires wind data from a Raymarine wind transducer via SeaTalk. More specifically, wind data from another manufacturer and input into the NMEA port on the X5 was inferior to Raymarine wired wind data via SeaTalk.

Has this changed now that there is a newer model of Raymarine Autopilot, Evolution EV-1, that occupies the similar market spot to the X-5? The Raymarine Evolution does not have an NMEA input, only SeaTalkNG (next generation) that is somehow similar to NMEA 2000. Raymarine now has acquired Tacktick and does not seem to market a Raymarine wind transducer speaking Seatalk. Further, Seatalk has been replaced by SeatalkNG (next generation). Raymarine offers a T122 wireless interface that will convert Tacktick wireless instruments to NMEA 0183. But the Raymarine Evolution Autopilot does not have an input for NMEA. There is a Raymaine product called iTC-5 Instrument Transducer Converter that would convert wired transducers to SeatalkNG, and that seems like it would work for wired transducers, but I cannot see how the Tacktick wireless system can work with the Raymarine Evolution Autopilot. Raymarine does have a NMEA 0181 to SeaTalk converter, so theoretically, the Tacktick wireless T122 could make NMEA 0183 that could be converted to Seatalk1 by the Raymarine converter, and Seatalk1 could be converted to SeatalkNG by the Seatalk 1 to SeatalkNG converter, but that seems silly to have 3 different things between the wireless instruments and the autopilot. Is there a way to more efficiently get the data to the autopilot?

Todd, I"m using ST50 wind (seatalk 1) with an Evolution (EV-100 tiller pack) for steer to wind (apparent or true) The interface is Seatalk to seatalk ng (part number E22158)

It all seems to work quite well so far. The kit puts the seatalk 1 info onto the seatalk ng backbone. Caution, when doing this the seatalk ng backbone backpowers the seatalk 1 instruments. If you don"t disconnect the old seatalk instrument power source, it is possible to indirectly power up the autopilot through the backbone. Not good.

Todd, I"m using ST50 wind (seatalk 1) with an Evolution (EV-100 tiller pack) for steer to wind (apparent or true) The interface is Seatalk to seatalk ng (part number E22158)

It all seems to work quite well so far. The kit puts the seatalk 1 info onto the seatalk ng backbone. Caution, when doing this the seatalk ng backbone backpowers the seatalk 1 instruments. If you don"t disconnect the old seatalk instrument power source, it is possible to indirectly power up the autopilot through the backbone. Not good.

Thank you. If I understand correctly, any Raymarine instruments up to ST60 are able to do Seatalk or Seatalk NG with the backbone, but I do not see a straighforward way for the Tacktick wind transducer to get to SeatalkNG. I will post this to the Raymarine Technical Forum, as well.

Yes, the Actisense NMEA 0183 to SeatalkNG bridge device would combine two of the three steps. Previously, Tactick to NMEA 0183 with T122, followed by NMEA 0183 to Seatalk1 with Raymarine converter, followed by Seatalk1 to Seatalk NG with the Raymarine Seatalk1 to SeatalkNG converter. The last two steps are combined with the Actisense bridge.

It sounds like it would be too slow. I did post this to the Raymarine Technical Forum, so perhaps that will come up with something. http://raymarine.ning.com/forum/topics/how-can-tacktick-mn100-series-wind-instrument-and-speed

My X5 went into "Sea Talk" failure on the return of Longpac 2013. I tried some diagnoses but did not find the problem. It then returned to normal after a few weeks and was operational for 6 months and a few races. Then it went back into Sea Talk failure the day before 3BF.

To clarify my "remote controller box" is not the LCD control/display or brain box, but rather the $400 dollar wireless remote control accessory that can be plugged into the brain box. Ray Marine S100, http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=848. About $200 for a new wireless remote control box. Not covered under warranty.

I also asked Ian at Star Marine about the urban myth that the AP would shut down if the hand remote was immersed in water. He never heard of it or could NOT see how it could be done with the S100. For MOB situation. Part of my self recovery plan is to carry the remote on my vest.

Converts manual hydraulic steering for dramatic reduction in steering wheel torque and at the same time provides a pump for an autopilot installation.

The SeaStar Power Assist Autopilot pump is the standard power assist product with the addition of a Type 1 or Type 2 autopilot pump. The SeaStar Autopilot pump is a fixed flow, reversible pump set that uses an internal hydraulic gear pump, producing very little vibration or noise. It is offered in 12 and 24 volt configurations, as well as two different pump sizes (type 1 & type 2). Specifications

My radar and chartplotter were Raymarine, so I chose Raymarine for the autopilot as well. I had Raymarine Wheel-Pilot in my Morgan sailboat and had a Sport-Pilot in my fishing boat, and I was happy with them both. I liked Raymarine"s Seatalk interface and I thought it would be best to have all the electronics be of like brand for best compatibility. In retrospect, I did make the right decision.

The Raymarine autopilot has been the best piece of equipment I have installed on the boat. I use the autopilot as soon as I leave the dock and it runs till I return. It has never faltered. It is a far better helmsman that any person good be, in keeping the boat running true in all sea conditions. The system installed on Stella Blue is robust. It will handle yachts much larger that Stella Blue. A boat the size of Stella Blue, falls in the lower end of the recommended range of application for this system, thus resulting in a very responsive system while keeping the workload fairly light for the autopilot. Now for the details.

Raymarine manufactures 3 different hydraulic pumps for this class of autopilots, type 1, 2, and 3. The size pump you need is determined by the volume of the steering cylinder. The single engine 400 uses a 13.7 cu. in. (BA175-7TM) cylinder, with a 2.4 cu. in. (SeaStar II) pump. The Raymarine type 2 hydraulic pump covers applications from 9.8 – 21 cubic inch and this is the pump to get. (Even though the ram capacity of 13.7 falls within the type 1 pump (4.9–14 cubic inch rams) range, do not use the type 1 unless you always boat in flat water with no wind. It is marginal in capacity and will give unsatisfactory performance in this application)

The pump type determines the corepack that you will need. The corepack is the course computer and the power supply/controller to drive the pump. The corepacks come in two versions, with or without internal rate gyro. The rate gyro is a sensitive instrument that senses yaw much faster than the compass can supply heading information. If you want your boat to track straight in following seas, the rate gyro is a must. Stella Blue uses the 400G corepack that includes the internal rate gyro (this model name has been renamed the S3G.)

Finally, you will need control heads. I use the 8001 on the flybridge. It has a large display that makes it very easy to see, and a knob to dial in the heading or to steer with in power steering mode. It also has dedicated buttons for most functions so you do not need to remember to press combinations of keys simultaneously as some other control heads require.

Before I bought the autopilot, I inquired of several dealers about installation cost and mounting locations. Costs were estimated from $1500.00 on up, and the proposed installations were not at all what was recommended by Raymarine. I didn"t like what I heard from any of them, so I decided to do it myself. A couple of them were going to put the system up on the flybridge, which is probably the easiest, but worst (furthest) location from the rudder. The installation is rather straight forward and took about a day.

Raymarine suggests that the pump be located as close to the ram as possible. Nobody I talked to thought that was a good idea. First, it might be subject to salt water corrosion if green water leaked through the hatch seal above, and it would require another break point in the hydraulic lines. The next best location would be at the first junction of the lines where they meet below the lower helm station. Tapping in at this location would minimize plumbing, the pump would be in a dry controlled environment, and it would still be in a relatively low point of the hydraulic system to make bleeding less problematic.A suitable location under the stairs for the corepack and compass would be near by minimizing wire runs. It is a very serviceable location as well.

Before I started the installation, I had an aluminum bracket fabricated for some 1/2" thick 6061-T6 aluminum plate. Not knowing at the time, where the exact location of the pump would be I used a piece of 1/2" starboard to mount the bracket to the 2 x 4 beam behind the shower and just above the hot water heater. The junction where the lower helm, upper helm, and rudder lines all meet, is just a few inches above. I had three short hydraulic lines made up by Allied Industrial Products, in New Britain, CT, to patch the pump into this junction. Three more brass tees and some MPT / male compression adapters and the pump is all plumbed in!

The corepack is mounted just a few feet away under the stairs. Again, a well protected and serviceable location for the electronics. The power for the unit comes off the DC buss bars behind the air return screen located below the lower helm station. In the above picture you can see the red and yellow wires that feed the core pack bundled up with the red and black coming from the corepack to the pump.

In addition to the power in and power out to the pump wires, there is a rudder angle transducer, an electric compass, controls leads, and a wire to turn the unit on/off. The rudder angle transducer wire runs across the bulkhead and then aft along side the fuel tank to the aft compartment. It follows the trim pump and the analog rudder angle transducer wires. Not a very tough run. That whole mess is protected by a shelf I built as another project.

The last part of the installation is the on/off switch. The corepack uses a circuit between two terminals on the board to shut off the system. If the circuit is closed, the system is off and if the circuit is open the system is on, the reverse of what you might expect. So I found one of the switches at the lower helm that was unused and removed power from it by cutting the buss bar feeding that switch. I then ran the wires from the corepack to it and re-labeled the switch. Bleed the hydraulic system and then it was ready for sea-trial and calibration. Read the manual! It is easy, but must be done correctly.