scag hydraulic pump leaking manufacturer

Although I have the turf tiger there was a recall by scag on the hydro hoses. My machine was purchased in January 2012 and I noticed the leaks in March 2012. Was leaking around the couplings. Talked with scag about this. Dealer fixed mine right a way. Scag did a recall for this but think it might have been as much as a year after I brought it their attention. I have a copy of the recall.

I have watched a couple videos and while it doesn"t look too difficult none of the videos are of my exact pump and don"t cover every aspect in detail.

he took apart the hydraulic pump on a big ass genie type lift or excavator or something, I think...then couldn"t put it back together. so here comes the whole crew of a few construction guys, the owner and mechanic with a pump in a bunch of pieces and a bunch of parts.

it was a big ass 6 piston hydraulic pump. I put the seals on it, and had to hang it from the lift arm while I lifted the housing onto the pistons to get them all in there.

A variable displacement piston pump is a little more challenging than a simple gearrotor pump, but if the exact parts are available it shouldn"t be too big of a deal.

There generally aren"t to many tricks or special tools needed. Can you get the specific number off of the pump and look it up on the net and get an assembly breakdown? I wouldn"t even start unless I had that in hand. I am sure many of the ZTR mowers use standard pumps, or worse yet one big drive unit. On one that I worked on, one side ran the hydraulics for the deck lift and the other didn"t so they were slightly different.

There generally aren"t to many tricks or special tools needed. Can you get the specific number off of the pump and look it up on the net and get an assembly breakdown? I wouldn"t even start unless I had that in hand. I am sure many of the ZTR mowers use standard pumps, or worse yet one big drive unit. On one that I worked on, one side ran the hydraulics for the deck lift and the other didn"t so they were slightly different.

If it"s leaking my g5ues would be a seal or oring. OP says it runs fine. So it"s possiblly part #5, 8, 18? There has to be a rear seal but it"s hard to find in diagram. There are several needle valves and cross ports on the fat end that looks like an engine head which could leak too.

My first step would torque the pump assembly bolts to spec. See if any move and if so does the leak stop. Clean the housing up real good and mow the yard to see if new oil shows up. I"d try it before I even unbolted the pump from the mower....if you can get to said bolts. Check the pump housing for cracks. If the pump was over torqued during assembly or took a hit one of the tapped assembly bolt holes could have cracked and fatigued so the bolt has insufficient threads to hold torque.

Most likely the failure point is #13 which looks to be a standard shaft oil seal. If you are careful you should be able to get the seal out without dissembling the pump. Often we will drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw in slide hammer to extract it. You can probably find the oil seal at your local Motion Industries for like 5 bucks

If you’re asking how hard it’ll be you probably aren’t experienced enough to do it. Not trying to be use but this is a piston pump and there are quite a few moving parts. Hell I could be wrong but as a dude that’s been repairing hydraulic shit for a long time I’d trust the pro or buy a new pump.

About half of the pumps and cylinders that we get into our shop (mostly high pressure, 10,000 psi) have been "worked on" by the customer before we get them

PLEASE make sure you run the proper hydraulic fluid for the cylinder. I have seen a lot of pumps messed up running "cheap" alternatives to factory oil, it eats seals and bushings in a lot of case.

About half of the pumps and cylinders that we get into our shop (mostly high pressure, 10,000 psi) have been "worked on" by the customer before we get them

PLEASE make sure you run the proper hydraulic fluid for the cylinder. I have seen a lot of pumps messed up running "cheap" alternatives to factory oil, it eats seals and bushings in a lot of case.

View QuoteThe shop I talked to said that 9 times out of 10 it was the O ring. He said that if it was a seal that the pump would likely need to be replaced.

Timely thread. I have a scag turf tiger that is about 12 years old with about 750 hours on it. I replaced the wheel motor on the left side last year because it was leaking. The hydraulics on that side are now weak...it struggles to get up hills, and the other side can easily overpower it if I push the levers all the way forward.

If #13 is the leak just replace it and roll on and see what happens. It could have a piece of trash wrapped around the shaft causing it to leak. No pump disassembly required. Remove the snap ring, drill hole in seal and pull It out, install new one.

#5 is the only one that you should have to disassemble the pump to replace. If any of the other screw in fittings and valves are leaking just remove, replace seal and reinstall.

If you"re asking how hard it"ll be you probably aren"t experienced enough to do it. Not trying to be use but this is a piston pump and there are quite a few moving parts. Hell I could be wrong but as a dude that"s been repairing hydraulic shit for a long time I"d trust the pro or buy a new pump.

View QuoteIf you do have to take the pump apart just make sure everything stays super super clean and protected from any dings or scratches. And don"t force anything, possibly marring it. This is way more important than on something like changing that impeller.

Most likely the failure point is #13 which looks to be a standard shaft oil seal. If you are careful you should be able to get the seal out without dissembling the pump. Often we will drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw in slide hammer to extract it. You can probably find the oil seal at your local Motion Industries for like 5 bucks

If you do have to take the pump apart just make sure everything stays super super cleanand protected from any dings or scratches. And don"t force anything, possibly marring it. This is way more important than on something like changing that impeller.

View QuoteIf it were a gear, vane or gerotor pump I"d tell you to give it hell but a variable piston pump is not where I"d suggest getting your feet wet in hydraulics. There are small parts, things that need to be perfectly lined up and add to that the back plate is under some spring pressure. It makes it hard to tell if you"ve got it going together right. If you screw up putting it back together it may still work just long enough to send shrapnel into every other part of the hydraulic system.

Seriously, after removing the pump, wash the pump exterior absolutely clean before disassembly. Have a clean area prepped to lay out the parts when they are cleaned. The blue shop towels in the box are fairly lint free. I"d also have some crocus cloth handy to polish the seal surfaces on the shaft. Take some hydraulic fluid and mix 1:1 with STP oil additive for build up lube.

Its not hard at all but i have rebuilt a few variable displacement piston pumps. The hardest part is getting the piston and slippers back in. I usually wrap some 550 cord around them to hold them as i install the rotating assembly.

If you have no mechanical experience then a simple error will cause major problems. If it was a gear or vane pump, those are very basic and easy to repair.

If it were a gear, vane or gerotor pump I"d tell you to give it hell but a variable piston pump is not where I"d suggest getting your feet wet in hydraulics. There are small parts, things that need to be perfectly lined up and add to that the back plate is under some spring pressure. It makes it hard to tell if you"ve got it going together right. If you screw up putting it back together it may still work just long enough to send shrapnel into every other part of the hydraulic system.

Is it actually leaking/dripping or is it just a grimy buildup on it? If it"s not actually dripping then just keep running until it"s actually leaking enough to have a clean streak from the source of the leak.

Is it actually leaking/dripping or is it just a grimy buildup on it? If it"s not actually dripping then just keep running until it"s actually leaking enough to have a clean streak from the source of the leak.

I’m going to show you zero turn hydraulic pump troubleshooting. Hydraulic systems are used with zero turn mowers to provide the power that spins the wheels and lifts the mower deck. That’s why it’s important to do periodic maintenance on a zero turn mower.

The zero turn hydraulic pump low pressure is a warning light that lights up on the control panel of your mower when there is a problem with your mower’s hydraulic oil pump. The oil pump is what regulates the flow of oil to all of the other components in your mower, so if it fails, it can cause some serious problems. It’s important to diagnose and repair this problem as quickly as possible to avoid any damage to your mower.

Zero turn hydraulic pump Air Leak In Inlet Plumbing1) Replace your old worn out hoses with new ones from your local hydraulic supply house. Do not use cheap hoses from a hardware store! They will fail quickly and leak again!

2) Make sure the male end of the hose is securely attached to the female end and does not leak when you push and pull on it. If it does leak then tighten up or replace as needed until it stops leaking (use Teflon tape).

3) Make sure there are no kinks in your hoses anywhere along their length (especially where they go under things like mowers). This can cause a restriction in flow which will damage your pump (and maybe even ruin your engine).

Zero turn hydraulic pump Pressure Gauge Malfunction1: Check the pressure switch. The most common cause of zero turn hydraulic pump pressure gauge failure is the pressure switch. This component is usually located near the tank or reservoir and is responsible for detecting changes in pressure. When it fails, it sends an incorrect signal to the gauge, causing it to show incorrect readings.

2: Check for loose wiring connections or broken wires. If you’re having trouble with your zero turn hydraulic pump pressure gauge, check all of your wiring connections for loose or broken wires. Make sure that none of your wires have become disconnected from their respective terminals either at the pump or on the dashboard.

3: Test all of your sensors and hoses with a multimeter set at ohms mode so that you can test for continuity problems in hoses and other components that might be causing your zero turn hydraulic pump pressure gauge malfunction.

Zero turn Hydraulic Pump Worn Hydraulic Pump SealsZero turn hydraulic pump seals are a common problem for all zero turns. The hydraulic pump is used to power the steering and mower deck functions. If your hydraulic pump is leaking fluid, you may be losing oil from your engine. If you suspect that your zero turn hydraulic pump seal is worn or damaged and needs replacing.

Zero turn Hydraulic pump Belt SlippageThe first thing you need to do is check the tension on your lawn mower belt. If it’s loose or sloppy then tighten it up by using a wrench or socket set on your tractor. You can also use a simple screwdriver if you don’t have an adjustable wrench handy.

You will also want to check the air filter on your engine as well as all other filters such as fuel filters and fuel pumps in order to make sure they are clean and free from debris so that they can function properly when needed!

Leaky zero turn Hydraulic Pump Discharge Hose1)you want to do is mark where you’re going to cut your old hoses off so that you can put your new ones on in exactly the same place as your old ones were before they started leaking (you’ll see what I mean when you watch this part).

2) Then cut off both ends of your old h hoses and remove the old clamps from your fittings on the pump.zero turn hydraulic pump Low Pressure Solution table

If your zero turn mower is making noise, it can be caused by a variety of reasons. The easiest way to diagnose the problem is to find out how much noise you’re hearing. You will need to look at the different parts of your zero turn mower and determine what part is making the most noise.If it is a hydraulic pump, it can also be caused by the following reasons:

Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Loud Sucking NoiseThis is a common problem with zero turns and most people think it’s normal for them to make this noise. It’s not normal though and it’s actually caused by two things:

The first thing that causes this problem is air getting into your hydraulic system. This can happen if there’s a leak in your hydraulic line or if one of your fittings has come loose. The second thing that causes this problem is the filter inside the valve block becoming clogged with dirt and grass clippings.

Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Loud Screeching Noise1.Check the condition of the belt by placing your hand on top of it. If you feel tension, continue with step 2. If not, go on to step 3.

e) Clean up any oil stains you may have found on yourself or your gear before going home for the day (so as not to alarm anyone who might be waiting for you there).zero turn hydraulic pump Noise Solution table

The first thing you need to do is determine where the leak is coming from. If it’s coming out of the top of the pump, then it could simply be a loose fitting or seal that needs to be replaced. If it’s coming out of the side of the pump, then it is probably due to a worn out internal seal or bushing that needs to be replaced.

Another thing you can try if your leak is coming from within your hydraulic oil reservoir is simply adding more oil until you see no more drops falling onto your riding lawn mower deck or garage floor. This will usually solve any leaking issues for at least a few days until more leaks develop again due to continued wear and tear on parts inside your tractor’s pump system over time as well as temperature changes from the weather. If you’re still having problems with your riding lawn mower after trying these quick fixes, it’s time to look into hiring a professional mechanic or purchasing a new one altogether.

Worn Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Cankcase Oil SealsIf you are having a hard time seeing the oil level in your zero turn hydraulic pump cancass, it’s probably time to replace the worn out seals. This will allow you to see exactly how much fluid is in your pump so that you don’t run dry on the job.

Bad Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Bearing1, The first thing to check is the oil level. Check it with a dip stick or by removing the cap and looking at the oil. If you don’t see any oil, then fill up until it reaches full line.

2, check for air bubbles in your oil tank. This can be done by disconnecting the suction hose from your tank and putting it into a bucket of water. If there are air bubbles coming out of the suction hose, this means that your pump isn’t getting enough oil from your tank and will have to be replaced.

3, check for leaks in your system. Make sure there are no leaks coming from your unsealed valves or seals on your hydraulic system. If there are no obvious leaks coming from these areas, then you may need to rebuild or replace your entire hydraulic system as a whole unit.

Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Over-Filled CrankcaseZero turn mowers are easy to operate, but you should take care of them and follow the instructions for maintenance. If you follow the rules, you should not have any problems with your equipment. You can find more information about zero turn mower maintenance here.

Contaminated, Or Incorrect Oil For Zero Turn Hydraulic PumpThe most common cause of leakage from a hydraulic pump is using the wrong type of oil. Hydraulic oil comes in two different types; synthetic and mineral based. Synthetic oils contain additives that help keep it clean and free from debris and contaminants. Mineral oils are cheaper than synthetic oils and are used by many manufacturers on their zero turns.

However, they need to be changed more often because they tend to get contaminated quicker than synthetic oils do. The best way to check what type of hydraulic oil your machine uses is by looking at your owner’s manual before purchasing any new equipment for your zero turn mower.zero turn Hydraulic Pump Oli Leak Solution table

The zero turn hydraulic pump is a small, but very important part of your mower. The purpose of this mechanism is to deliver oil to each of the different hydraulic motors on your mower. Without proper lubrication, these components would not be able to operate properly. In some cases, however, excessive heat can cause problems with your zero turn hydraulic pump.

When a zero turn hydraulic pump overheats, your mower will not be able to move. This can be a serious problem if you have to cut your lawn on a hot day or if you have an important event coming up soon. In those situations you need to know how to fix your hydraulic pump so you can get back out there and get the job done.

The first thing that you want to do when troubleshooting your zero turn hydraulic pump is check for leaks. If there are any leaks in the system then you will need to replace all of the hoses and seals before moving forward with other repairs.

If your zero turn mower is leaking oil or hydraulic fluid, then you will need to replace the O-rings and seals on your engine. This will help prevent further wear and tear as well as leaks while preventing any further damage from occurring.

Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Easy Start/Quick Start Valve ProblemThe first thing that you should do when you have this problem is check the oil level in your hydraulic system. If it is low, then add some more so that it covers the bottom of the dipstick. Next, make sure there are no obstructions in the filter area or in any other part of the system. Check all of the hoses and make sure they are not kinked or damaged. If everything looks good and nothing seems out of place then check to see if your engine has any problems starting up.

Sticking Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump UnloaderThe common cause of a sticking pump unloader is the rubber diaphragm. It can become stuck in the pump housing and prevent normal operation of the unloader valve. The pump will continue to run, but no fluid will be allowed through the unloader valve. The first step in troubleshooting this problem is to check for hydraulic fluid leaks around the pump and hydraulic lines. If there are no leaks then you should replace the rubber diaphragm and replace any lost fluid.

Depending on your model of zero turn mower, you may have an electric clutch on your hydraulic system. This clutch works in conjunction with your brake pedal to apply and release pressure from your clutches. If this clutch sticks, it could prevent fluid from flowing through the unloader valve causing it to stick open or closed . To check this, you will need to disconnect the wiring harness from the electric clutch and spin the flywheel. If there is resistance when you turn it, then the clutch is sticking.Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Sudden Pressure Loss Solution table

Hydraulic pump water leakage is one of the most common problems with zero turn mowers. This type of leakage is due to a faulty seal or gasket. The hydraulic pump holds the oil that powers the machine. It is important that you find out what is causing the leak so that you can fix it before it causes any more damage to your mower.

Worn Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Low Pressure SealsThe hydraulic pump of a zero turn mower is responsible for providing the high pressure oil that powers the wheels. Over time, seals on a hydraulic pump can wear out or break. This will not only cause your mower to leak, but it can also lead to a loss of power and damage to other components of your machine. If you notice that your zero turn mower is leaking oil, it is time to replace these seals.

Step 1: Remove the Cables and Hoses:Start by disconnecting any cables or hoses connected to the hydraulic tank on your zero turn mower. Next, remove any bolts holding the tank onto its base plate with a socket wrench before lifting it off.

Step 2: Remove The Cover Plate & Lower Gasket:Next you will need to remove the cover plate which protects the low pressure seals from dirt and debris by removing all eight bolts holding it in place with a socket wrench. Once removed gently pry off the lower gasket located between the pump and base plate with a flathead screwdriver if necessary then set aside for later use if needed.

Step 3: Install New High Pressure Seals & Gaskets:install the new lower seal by placing it on top of the base plate and gently tapping it into place with a hammer or mallet until it is flat against the pump housing.

Worn Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Sleeves Or CylindersYou will need to remove the old sleeves from your zero turn mower by removing the clutch cover. Once you have removed the cover, you will be able to see two bolts on either side of the sleeve. Use a wrench and remove these bolts. You may also need to use a hammer and chisel to remove any remaining pieces of metal left behind after you have removed the bolts.

Worn Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump AdapterIf you’re having trouble with your tractor’s tractor, there are some simple things you can do to fix it. This article will show you how to change the worn zero turn hydraulic pump adapter on your own.

Cracked Or Warped Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump ManifoldThe manifold is made from cast aluminum, which is prone to cracking. If you have a cracked manifold, it needs to be replaced as soon as possible because it can cause serious engine damage.

2) Remove all spark plugs and set them aside so they don’t get lost or damaged during this process. Remove all bolts holding down each cylinder head and set them aside too (they might be covered in oil). If there are any pipe seals on top of each cylinder head, remove those as well before proceeding further into this repair guide (they’re just there to keep dirt out of your engine).zero turn Hydraulic Pump Water Leaking Solution table

If you are experiencing any problems with your hydraulic pump, it is important to troubleshoot quickly. The following FAQ will help you troubleshoot and fix common issues related to your hydraulic pump.

The easiest way to check the pump is with a pressure gauge. If the pressure is low, you will need to replace the pump. The pressure should be between 70 and 90 psi for a normal running engine. If it is too high, or if the pressure fluctuates, you may have a leak in your hydraulics system. You can also use this test to verify that all of your fittings are tight and there aren’t any leaks in the lines or hoses.

If you don’t have a pressure gauge handy, it’s possible to use your eyes instead. Look at the front of the engine where the tubing connects to the pump head and see if there’s any movement or vibration while running. If it’s moving around, there may be an issue with that particular fitting or connection point in your system (or possibly elsewhere).

The cub cadet 48 inch zero turn mower has a hydraulic pump. The pump helps to move the deck up and down. When the pump fails, it is usually because of an issue with the oil seals or bearings. You can troubleshoot the problem by checking the oil level and making sure that there are no leaks from around the seals. If you find that your cub cadet 48 inch zero turn mower is leaking from around these areas then you will need to replace them. You can also check for loose bolts or worn out parts that may cause this problem. If none of these things fix your problem then it may be time for a new hydraulic pump or even a whole new mower if yours is too old or damaged beyond repair!

The Ariens Sport Zoom 1232 zero turn mower has a hydraulic pump that will cause problems if it fails. In this article, we will explain how to fix the mower when the hydraulic pump is not working properly.

The electric motor does not work when I turn on my mower deck. It only works sometimes when I turn on my mower deck. The most common cause is a bad controller board or a bad connection between the controller and hydraulic pump. Check for power at both ends of your hydraulic pump (on/off switch and hydraulic tank). If both ends are powered up, then there is likely some sort of connection issue between the two devices. This can be fixed by cleaning all electrical connections with rubbing alcohol and using dielectric grease on all connectors before reattaching them together again (see our video on how to do this).

There are many places you can buy a zero turn hydraulic pump. One of the best places to buy them is at your local dealer. If you don’t have one in your area, then you can always check out online stores that sell these parts.

Havlat’s article on zero turn hydraulic pump troubleshooting is both funny and insightful. He goes over the different types of pumps, and highlights some of their characteristics you need to keep in mind. If you are considering a buying a new zero turn mower, check this article out first. It will save you a lot of time and headaches.

The main enemy of any hydraulic system is heat. By properly sizing the hydraulic oil reservoir, efficient hose routing, and the use of oil coolers and fans where needed, Scag drive systems have been designed to have normal operating temperatures well within the safe range of the hydraulic components using “standard” oil. Using larger oil tanks, oil coolers and fans (where needed) does add additional cost to the manufacturing process, however, we feel that this extra attention to performance, longevity and value is one of the many reasons people decide to “step up” to a Scag mower.

The “requirement” to use synthetic oil in a mower is generally the result of producing a machine with a hydro system that has an operating temperature that can exceed the temperature range of the hydraulic components. These systems usually have very small oil reservoirs located in an area without sufficient airflow (due to limited space on the mower) and do not use oil coolers or fans. This is a less expensive way to manufacture mowers, however, the extra cost of the synthetic oil (synthetic oil is normally four to five times the cost of standard oil) is a burden that you, the customer, will have to pay.

Occasionally customers inquire about switching the hydro oil in their new Scag to synthetic. While there is nothing in the drive system that could be damaged from its use, as outlined above, it is certainly not necessary. We do suggest that they wait until after the initial break-in period before making the switch, if desired.

Frame and structural components including oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors are covered for two years of commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for two years, including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Most Scag mowers are equipped with the exclusive Scag heavy-duty cutter-blade spindle. Scag spindles have a cast-iron housing for increased shock-load strength and tapered roller bearings for 50% more load-carrying capacity than ball bearings. For easy maintenance and seal protection, our grease fittings are top-mounted and have a grease relief valve to prevent over-greasing. We ensure our spindle’s dependability, not only through its top-quality construction, but also through complete coverage of parts and labor for the first and second years, and parts only for the third year. Applies to commercial and non-commercial use.

Scag Velocity Plus™ and Advantage cutter decks continue to be the strongest and best-performing in the industry. We cover them against manufacturer’s defects for three full years. This warranty covers parts and labor for the first and second years, and parts only for the third year. These reliable decks are built to hold up under extreme conditions with features like the Tri-Plate deck top. Applies to commercial mowers only.

Frame and structural components including oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors are covered for three years or 500 hours (whichever comes first) of non-commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for three years or 500 hours (whichever comes first), including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors are covered for three years or 500 hours (whichever comes first) of non-commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for three years or 500 hours (whichever comes first), including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors are covered for one year of commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for one year, including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors are covered for five years or 750 hours (whichever comes first) of non-commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for five years or 750 hours (whichever comes first), including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including frame, blower housing, oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors (where applicable) are covered for two years of commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for two years, including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including frame, blower housing, oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors (where applicable) are covered for two years of non-commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for two years, including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including frame, blower housing, oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors (where applicable) are covered for one year of commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for one year, including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including frame, blower housing, oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors (where applicable) are covered for two years of non-commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for two years, including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors are covered for two years of commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for two years, including parts and labor (excludes wear items).

Frame and structural components including oil reservoirs, fittings, oil coolers, electrical switches and clutches, pulleys, hydraulic pumps and wheel motors are covered for three years or 500 hours (whichever comes first) of non-commercial use. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for three years or 500 hours (whichever comes first), including parts and labor (excludes wear items).