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The R230"s hydraulic vario roof pump aka hydraulic unit is a complex, high-performance pump with integrated valve block, two different output pressures, high-end electronic noise suppression, and high flow rate.

Intermittently working pumps are often mistaken for internal leaks in hydraulic cylinders. While internal leaks occur in OEM vario roof cylinders on occasion, almost every hydraulic pump will fail eventually on account of some design flaws that Top Hydraulics fixes with its upgrade. Thus, your pump will be better than a new one.

Is your pump blowing a fuse every time you try to use it? That is a clear sign for a short from the pump"s electric motor, and Top Hydraulics" rebuild will take care of it.

You send in your malfunctioning vario roof convertible hydraulic pump, p/n 2308000030, 2308000088, 2308000330, 2308000348, aka A 230 800 00 30, A 230 800 00 88, A 230 800 03 30, A 230 800 03 48.

If possible, raise your roll bar before removing the pump. Note that line 100 going to the top of the roll bar support cylinder is always pressurized (on working pumps). Before removing line 100 from the pump, loosen the two inside hex (Allen) bolts that hold the valve block to the pump. There will likely be a small amount of fluid coming out between the valve block and the pump body (fraction of an ounce), but this relieves pressure from line 100.

Do NOT drill a hole in the reservoir! - the filtering in the original pumps is insufficient, and tiny plastic shavings can cause significant damage to the pump and the valve block. Top Hydraulics may have to charge extra for rebuild service on pumps with severe contamination or holes drilled in the reservoir. An additional charge may also apply to pumps that have been abused by DIY repair efforts or severely damged by fire or water. Note that the latter is rare, but we want to mention it for completeness.

The upgrade service for hydraulic convertible top pumps replaces sensitive parts inside the pump with re-designed, precision machined aluminum ones, improves fluid filtering on those pumps that need it, services the valve block, solenoids and check valves, upgrades electronic components, upgrades internal seals, and replaces the electric motors if needed. Early model year vario roof pumps p/n 2308000030 (aka A 230 800 00 30) and 2308000348 (aka A 230 800 03 48) fail very frequently at this point, and should be upgraded proactively. Top Hydraulics" service makes these high-performance pumps better than brand new ones!

Pump removal is quite simple. Disconnect the pump from the wiring harness, remove the bolts that mount the pump frame to the car, and turn the pump on its side. Now you will see all the hydraulic lines going into the pump, held in place by two retaining plates. Each plate has numbers engraved where the lines go in, and the lines (hoses) have the corresponding numbers printed on them in red or white ink. Thus, there is no need for labeling the hoses. First loosen the two inside hex (Allen) bolts that hold the valve block to the pump - one or two turns is enough. There will likely be a small amount of fluid coming out between the valve block and the pump body (fraction of an ounce), but this relieves pressure from line 100. (As mentioned above, there is normally pressure on line 100, and that would otherwise make line 100 pop out of the pump once its retaining plate is moved.) Then remove the retaining plates and pull out the hoses.

We suggest that you remove the mounting frame from the pump - it makes shipping cheaper and easier. Do not attempt to drain fluid from the pump. Instead, wrap the pump inside a large garbage bag, and then inside another one. That should take care of keeping oil leaks contained, and it will protect your pump. Buffer the parcel well inside, and tape it up well.

Top Hydraulics will not guarantee that the rebuilt units will be cosmetically perfect, but they will work well. For example, if you send us a pump in a bent mounting frame, then we may use our best efforts to straighten out the frame, but we will not replace it. We do not replace damaged electrical connectors - please package your pump carefully.

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Core exchange means that you get rebuilt parts from Top Hydraulics" inventory first, and then you send back your original parts for a refund of your core deposit of $200. For a full core refund, cylinders must be in good condition except for leaking seals.

Rebuild service includes upgrade of internal seals, relay replacement, service of filters, service of pump gears, service of electric motor, service of solenoid where applicable, and replacement of pump gears and/or electric motor and/or solenoid if necessary. Extensive bench testing ensures your pump exceeds OEM factory specs before we ship the pump back to you. This includes pressure test, flow test, and extended load test.

If you select optional core exchange, please note: The pump ships with reservoir filler cap or vent (as applicable to the model number), with mounting frame, and with relay. There are several versions of hydraulic pumps for the R129 SL-Class, and they are generally not compatible with each other. Please verify the part number on your pump, such as 129 800 00 48, 129 800 07 48, 129 800 14 48, or similar. Top Hydraulics will ship your pump once you have given us your original pump"s part number. The core refund will be reduced or retained if there are parts missing, or if there is significant damage from abuse on the core, such as results from DIY repair attempts or severe corrosion.

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Strutmasters 2003-2006 Mercedes-Benz SL500 Four Wheel Active Hydraulic Suspension To Passive Suspension Conversion System is the perfect solution to your expensive and complicated suspension problems. Designed to be very affordable, you can convert your ENTIRE electronically-controlled hydraulic suspension to use passive struts and coil springs for less than the price of replacing ONE Original Equipment strut at the dealer.

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2003-2006 Mercedes SL500 Active Hydraulic Struts (x4) - A long tube (similar to a shock absorber) that fills with hydraulic fluid forced in at varying rates of pressure determined by sensors on the vehicle. The strut is the resting place for a steel coil spring, which works to help support the weight of the vehicle. The struts are known as "active" because they can be adjusted hundreds of times a minute electronically. Much like a shock absorber, the strut dampens vibration and bouncing caused by travel on rough road surfaces.

2003-2006 Mercedes SL500 Height Sensors (x4) - A linkage located near each wheel of a vehicle that electronically measures the height of the vehicle, and reports this information back to the control module so that the computer can identify if changes in height need to be adjusted accordingly. The ride height sensor is a moving part, and like all moving parts, they will eventually wear out.

2003-2006 Mercedes SL500 Hydraulic Pump - A mechanical pump that delivers hydraulic fluid throughout the system at a high rate of pressure. On many models, the pump may have a second reservoir that works to deliver power steering to the vehicle. The pump can fail due to normal wear and tear OR it can burn up due to low fluid level caused by leaks in the suspension system.

2003-2006 Mercedes SL500 Suspension Control Module - A computer that is responsible for the operation of the active suspension system and maintaining the vehicle"s correct ride height.

2003-2006 Mercedes SL500 Rubber O-rings - Although they are the least expensive part of the air suspension, they are responsible for maintaining the seal where all of the hydraulic lines connect. Be sure to replace the O-rings when repairing any active suspension system.

A sudden loss of three to five inches of ride height on any or all of the four wheels is the most obvious sign of a problem on the 2003-2006 Mercedes-Benz SL500. Early detection of a bad suspension is the key to avoiding total failure. Check for hydraulic fluid leaking from the struts, lines, connection points or the pump itself. If the fluid level gets too low, it can burn out the pump and lead to a widespread failure of the system. A sudden loss of power steering and you"ll know the pump has most likely failed. A suspension warning light, at times accompanied by a chiming noise, is another sign of trouble. And because this system is so complicated, replacing just ONE part will seldom solve the problem. Many experienced technicians will recommend replacing ALL of the major components of the factory suspension to have a high rate of success. This type of complete repair can be in the neighborhood of $9,000 to $11,000!

The SL500 active hydraulic suspension is one of the most complicated and expensive suspensions ever offered in a vehicle sold in North America. The Strutmasters suspension conversion system allows SL500 owners the ability to bypass all the electronics and eliminate the headaches caused by the factory suspension system once and for all. The Strutmasters kit uses variable-rate coil springs that deliver great ride quality and eliminate the need to purchase "anti-sway" bars that can take up to 15 labor hours to install with other products on the market. Designed and assembled by hand in small batches in the USA, this kit comes complete with one custom-designed suspension light fix module and four completely pre-assembled coilover struts. Customers appreciate our detailed instructions and online installation videos to assist with their repair. If further help is needed, Strutmasters" technicians are available to answer any questions. If that isn"t enough, the quality parts are backed by our 1-year warranty. Compared to direct replacement at the dealership and individual part replacement, this kit can save SL500 vehicle owners up to $7000 in parts and labor costs.

This kit is awesome and was pretty easy to install. It comes with everything you need and the support from Strutmasters is second to none. This was something I should have done a long time ago when my first hydraulic strut went out and it cost me just as much as the entire conversion kit to replace. BTW, my SL500 rides much better with the Strutmaster system.

I replaced my Mercedes SL500 ABC system with Strutmasters [cost $3000 labor and Strutmaster Springs] instead of replacing only two rear rebuilt units @ $4000. Car rides as well, if not better than the original ABC system.

The module and bypass hose is a big plus in the kit eliminating all that hydraulics and warning lights. I can honestly say the ride is equal to the Mercedes system I don’t see a difference I’m happy with the suspension thank you

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The power steering pump is a belt-driven or electric-driven hydraulic pump that generates the hydraulic pressure needed to provide power steering assist. It develops output pressures of 1,000 PSI or more. The pump output is directed to the steering gear, often a rack and pinion type unit, where the hydraulic pressure pushes on the steering rack, greatly reducing the effort it would otherwise take to turn the steering wheel.

Groaning or whining noise when turning. Noise can occur if there is wear on the pump bearings or impeller vanes. A low fluid level or trapped air can also cause noises. If the pump has already been operating while dry, adding fluid may not resolve the noise and replacement of the pump might be necessary.

Power steering fluid leaks. Leaks can develop at pump seals, threaded connections, hoses, or on the steering rack and pinion unit. Pump seal leaks will generally require a replacement.

Difficult steering. Should you notice it is harder to turn the steering wheel, it might mean the power steering pump output pressure is too low, or there could be blockages in the pump or lines.

Damage to the pump pulley. Should the pump pulley become damaged or is loose on the pump shaft, you might detect vibration, drive belt damage, or hard steering. Either the pulley will have to be serviced or the pump assembly replaced.

If driven by a drive belt, the power steering pump is bolted to the engine via a bracket that allows for adjustment of the pump drive belt. Once the engine is cold, and safe to work on, the drive belt is removed.

If driven by an electric pump, the pump may be mounted in conjunction with the steering shaft or in conjunction with the steering rack. With either a drive belt or electric pump, removal of any dash, panel, or steering components is performed to access the pump.

The new pump is bolted on, the pressure and return hoses attached and the system is bled of all air. If pump is belt-driven, it is tightened to the manufacturer’s specification.

No. If the power steering pump is operated without an adequate amount of fluid, and the pump reservoir will not hold fluid due to a large leak. The pump could seize, which would snap the serpentine belt and likely leave you stranded. If the pump turns and there is adequate fluid, but there is no power assist, it will require much greater effort to turn the steering wheel, and that presents inherent safety risks. Generally, the wisest course is to seek immediate repairs if you suspect a problem with any component in your car’s power steering system.

Any belts driving the pump should be inspected and replaced as needed. The pump will only produce the required hydraulic pressure if it is driven by the belt at an adequate speed.

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The pressure for the Mercedes Benz ABC system and for the power steering is supplied by one ABC pump, also called a tandem pump. Two pump systems are integrated within the ABC pump, and although the two pumps share the same housing, they are separate components and it is possible that the ABC part of the pump fails, but that the power steering part of the pump is fully functional and vice versa. However, if a part fails, the complete pump must be replaced because it is one unit. The ABC pump can build up the required pressure up to 180 bars through its special construction. The wear of the pump depends on the driving style, the quality of the ABC oil and the purity of the ABC system, etc. A complete pump is always sold without the black pulley or without accumulator, but with a control valve (suction valve). Below you can find the various refurbished ABC pumps that we have in stock.

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A liquid reservoir powers abc pump at neutral pressure (atmospheric pressure), then this latter compresses it to reach an outlet pressure at the order of 60-80 bars. If you opt for belt power steering systems, this is your lucky day as we bring you some of the best power steering pulleys at preferential wholesale prices. We also have some pumps with integrated power steering pump reservoirs. This type of steering pump connects to the rack through a high-pressure steering pump hose.

There are two main types of abc pump. The hydraulic power steering pumps are considered as an old version of steering pumps, and they need to be equipped with the belt to run properly. Electric power steering pumps, on the other hand, don"t require any accessories circuit. As the name suggests, they have an electric motor to pressurize the steering fluid.

You should replace your power steering pump when observing any of the following signs: growls in the direction, the steering system no longer works, or fluid leakage in the power steering system. Once you identify that your steering pump is faulty, you can search for a new abc pump in our collections. We are sure you will be pleased with the affordable cost of our abc pump.