wd45 hydraulic pump made in china

I"m thinking about tearing into the pump to see why my remote outlet pressure is only around 1500psi instead of the 3500psi. Whats the best manual one can get?? I have seen the I&T and I would like something very detailed like a dealers manual. Also, does anyone else on this site have any of the many pump parts or will I just have to take it in the rear from agco??? Thanks in advance, Ryan

If you can get ahold of some sort of manual for it I"d be interested in a scan or a copy. The pump on my 45 needs some love as well. It doesnt seem to work with the traction booster at all. When I try to set it it creeps up or down wont maintain a set height.

I bought all the stuff from Sandylake but in reality it probably just needs a good cleaning out. The slightest bit of FOD in there can mess things up. Same pump on the CA and there is no screen and to make matters worse it pulls from where the metal is. They have a rebuild kit with gaskets, balls, springs and the such.

If you decide to re-build it, I have gaskets, small parts kit, I bought years ago from SLI to do one, don"t think I will need the stuff. Also, have a couple used pumps I need to find homes for.

I did the pump on My CA last year. It had a couple broken springs in it . Agco dealer had them in stock I think I spent $20 on springs . I did wind up taking it apart 4 times befor it worked correctly. It only takes a very small piece of FOD to keep it from working correctly. so after you think you have it clean clean it again . There is really very little to go wrong inside the pump. I also made the pump gasket out of cerial box after I ripped the one I bought on the third disasembly.

When my Dad and I rebuilt his WD back in "58 (I was 17 at the time), he gave me the task of rebuilding the hydraulic pump. Keep in mind the tractor had been thru a barn fire and then left to stand outside for a few years.

I hope you have better luck than I did.Back in the day,my dad was the neighborhood mechanic and had worked on plenty of AC pumps but never could "fix" mine.

Sounds like maybe the body of your pump was defective or developed some internal problem not easily detected. Could have/can try another pump? There seems to be plenty used on the market, small parts are not to costly, worth a try.

Chris,I put all the guts in another body with the same result.I even put the good working pump off the WD on and it was better but not as good as when on the WD.Pump lobes look excellent.No play in brgs etc.You tell me what"s wrong. I"m the guy who has the "unusual" things happen.It"s apparently my lot in life.

Thanks for posting, Ted. I can print these out from originals a nd mail them to anyone if they are something you would like. These are from my "Old" AC service binder, actually has pictures of B/C pumps showing oil flow in "red" ink, alway"s thought that color ink was unusual for older manuals.

Maybe I am over thinking this. I just need a very good service manual. I"m not talking a manual from a farm store. I want to get one that dealer mechanics would use. I really want to understand this pump. Ryan

I"m not sure a dealer service manual is going to be all that more informative than what is currently available. In the years those tractors/pumps were made, the service manual was adequate for most AC mechanic"s to understand and service this part. They are not that complicated, no rocket science degree needed. maybe call MACK and pick his brain some, he might have some more technical lit to send you.

In this article I would like to throw in my modest opinion about non-original spare parts - a frequent discussion topic among folks involved in the business of hydraulic pump and motor overhauling.

Although workshops can"t repair pumps without spare parts, they can choose where to buy the spares, and this choice is the key factor that defines how much money they make and how much "overhauling quality" they deliver. With so many suppliers and resellers of non-genuine replacement parts for hydraulic pumps and motors popping up every day, choosing the right "economic" supplier has become all but an easy task involving trial and error overhauls, pissed-off mechanics, pissed-off customers and even forever lost contracts and clients.

A mechanic, for example, being the person who shoves the parts into them pumps and motors, will always prefer genuine replacement parts over any aftermarket ones for one simple reason - they are easy to work with, they always fit and require no "finishing touches" - ergo his work is faster and simpler. Genuine parts last long and are hardly ever faulty, which makes the testing and adjustment procedures safer and reduces the risk of having to re-open overhauled units to a minimum. A mechanic doesn"t care about how much they cost because he"s not the one paying for them.

The truth lies, as always, in the golden middle, and I, personally, came to the conclusion that although most of the times you do get what you pay for, this doesn"t mean that you can"t get a bargain for a penny every once in a while, so a sound overhauler keeps his eyes and mind open and uses both genuine and aftermarket parts in a combination defined by his trial an error experience and the pump/motor application demands. This approach is sound because even in pre-recession years there were hydraulic equipment owners who actually preferred aftermarket to genuine in the pursuit of cutting down overhaul expenses. So, some clients will want the genuine quality, and some will want the lower price - and in order to satisfy both you, naturally, have to be able to serve both, but - if your goal is to deliver quality repairs, aftermarket part suppliers should be chosen with a cool head and on the basis of quality, not price!

OK, you say, so I am a hydraulic equipment owner, and I"ve got this excavator pump to repair, how do I know if I am going to be scammed with them Chinese spares? Well, there is no simple answer to this question...There is an opinion that if an overhaul is backed up by warranty than you"re on the safe side, no matter what parts were used - this, unfortunately, is not entirely true, because if you"re the unlucky hydraulic pump owner caught in the "error" stage of the new supplier trial and error validation process, you can get two different answers and two very different bills depending on how honest the company you are dealing with is. An honest workshop will admit their fault and try to correct the mistake as fast as they can, and if you are not the first-time customer you might even get the - "sorry about that, dude, the parts"re all **cked up..." confession, while a less candid workshop will give you the standard "commission errors committed by non-qualified personnel plus hard particle contamination in conjunction with the inappropriate oil temperature and deficient system design" excuse, and make you pay for their poor part supplier choice. So I"d say that warranty alone isn"t a guarantee, and would cast my vote for warranty combined with transparency - if a workshop has good experience with their non-genuine spare parts supplier - they won"t be ashamed to admit that the parts are not original.

Now, a separate word must be said about Chinese suppliers of spare parts for hydraulic pumps and motors. There are hundreds of companies in China that will sell you spare parts for almost any existing brand, with the quality ranging from superb to unacceptable and even ridiculously unacceptable. However with most suppliers (and especially resellers) the fact that you have received a batch of supreme quality spares doesn"t guarantee that you will get the same quality in the next batch. So if you ever decide to "go oriental" - be prepared for nasty surprises! (At least that was the situation at the moment of writing - December 2011).

My calling is more technical than commercial, therefore I am mainly interested in the quality of the spares rather than their price or where they come from - so please, don"t bother asking me for a list of "unofficially approved" Chinese suppliers of cheap yet extremely high quality spare parts for hydraulic pumps and motors - I won"t provide it because I frankly don"t have it! We do use some aftermarket spares from China, we did have our share of mishaps and disappointments with Chinese made parts, and our initial "Hurrays" got eventually replaced by "Boos" for most of them. Since our policy has always been to never let a client pay for a breakdown caused by a low quality part, a couple of lessons "learned the hard way" taught us that in most cases (not all, though) using Chinese spares in hydraulic pumps and motors is like using bathroom soap for filling cakes - looks and smells nice, yet still tastes like crap...

Been there. Sounds like a broken or stuck control valve return spring (also called a backup spring). When the lift control is moved to the "raise" position an internal cam in the pump turns in to "push" the control valves forward allowing oil to pump into the rams. When the control is moved back to the hold or lower position a backup spring is suppose to push the control valves back to the bypass position.

Either way its a relatively easy fix (if that"s all that"s wrong with it and you can find replacements for broken parts) *once* you get the pump off the tractor. The first time you do one is quite a learning experience. Depending on why the control valves are sticking it way be worth your time just to buy a rebuilt pump (~$275) as you can sink a lot of time in one since the only way you (and I) have to test it is to put it back on the tractor (another learning experience BTW).

The good news is that once you get the knack you can yank the pump off, make your next "adjustment" and slap it back on the tractor in under 30 minutes. Do that five or six times and you"re a pump pro.

Get the pump off the tractor and I"ll step you through the disassembly process. If you decide to tackle it yourself and have a digital camera, take lots of pictures and maybe we"ll submit an article to ytmag on this style of pump. (If there"s one in the archive, I couldn"t find it.)

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