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Troubleshooting your log splitter really isn’t as daunting a task as you’d think it’d be. Thanks to the great design of our log splitters, pretty much nothing can go wrong which is unfixable. We stock all the spare parts you could ever need, but first, we need to work out the problem.

There are four main categories of troubleshooting; power issues, log splitter ram failing to move correctly, oil leakage or the log splitter failing to split logs.

It may often appear as though something critical has affected your log splitter, such as the ram failing to move or it appears as though there’s no power getting to the log splitter. More often than not, there are small errors that can be easily fixed.

If you’re not comfortable playing around with your log splitter – let us take a look for you. We offer a log splitter repair service, no matter the brand. We offer a full repair of your log splitter. This includes collecting your machine, repairing it in our workshop and delivery back to yourself. The repair may include a full strip-down, rebuild or fitting of replacement parts.

Check that the plastic knob of the lever is screwed on fully. If this becomes unscrewed it then prevents the lever from being pushed right down, and this prevents the log splitter from operating.

The oil level in your log splitter may be running low, you can check this by using the dipstick. You can also run a quick test by raising the front end of the log splitter on a block of wood or something similar. If you raise the front of the log splitter and the log splitter then starts operating as normal, then this is a clear sign that you are low on oil.

This is similar to the last, but when the log splitter is pointing downhill it struggles to circulate the fluid right around the machine. This causes it to fail when operating.

The log splitter should always be operated on level ground or pointing uphill. If your log splitter is failing to split any logs, 90% of the time this will be the issue. If the log splitter is not pointing downhill then it’s likely low oil.

Now that we’ve covered the most common issues and quick fixes. Let’s look at some of the rare problems which can affect the performance of the log splitter.

Place the log splitter back upright and try the splitter again, if it produces the same noise then loosen the bolts a little from the end of the pump (13mm) and try again.

The capacitor in the electric motor can fail from misuse over time. When operating the log splitter, we strongly advise that you press the power button before operating the lever, this allows time for the motor to gather speed before attempting to split logs.

As stated previously, the capacitor failing will also stop the motor from starting up. After you have checked the previous solutions, unplug the log splitter from the mains. Then remove the six screws on the outside of the switch cover, take the switch cover off and you will then see the capacitor.

Pump gears binding is an issue that can sometimes present itself within a log splitter which would cause a trip. This is easily fixed by loosening each of the 6 bolts on the back of the pump by ¼ of a turn and then checking to see if the motor turns freely.

Pump gears can also get jammed. To fix this you should remove the 6 bolts from the pump and separate the motor and pump. You can then check the gears for any silicone sealant or other material. When you’re reassembling, the torque for the bolts is 12 ft-lb, 16 N m.

If the ram of the log splitter is not returning fully or is jerking upon return, there are a couple of fixes you can perform to get it back up and running smoothly.

First, check that the moving carriage isn’t obstructed. You can do this by checking underneath the blade/pusher and down the sides of the carriage for any splinters of wood that may be obstructing the carriage.

This one is fairly simple to figure out but check the log bed of the splitter for a build-up of sap. You can then also apply a thin layer of workshop grease to the bed to allow it to operate more smoothly. Avoid using WD-40 to grease the bed as this can lead to the log splitter ram ‘juddering’ rather than solving the issue.

Another possibility is that the ram is bent. Remove the DuoCut blade from the splitter. If the ram does not return after removing the DuoCut blade, loosen the 2 rear lock nuts on the carriage arms and remove the 2 nuts in front of the crosspiece. You can then remove the carriage from the log splitter. If the ram does not return then the next part is a bit tricky so give us a call.

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The Chinese can make anything we can make. If the specs are good and it hasn"t been ordered to be cheap, then their products can be quite exceptional. If you buy cheap, you are going to get cheap. As noted, there was nothing wrong with the pump, the installation was incorrect. When the correct NPT pipe was used, no problem.

FWIW, I got a Makita 1/2 HD lithium-ion drill several years ago. Thought it was made in Japan, but it was made in China. At first, I was mad, the drill was quite expensive, but 11 yrs later that drill is still on the original batteries and has been an incredible workhorse. It has been used hard building our greenhouse, the woodshed and even the bridge project I helped with up north. Never a whimper or a problem. This drill was not cheap, but it certainly has been worth it.

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Log splitters are a useful tool to have in your arsenal, so they deserve proper care. Over time, even small issues will build up and create noticeable drops in the efficiency of your log splitter.

If you’re looking for ways to ensure your splitter is kept in optimal condition, then you’ve come to the right place. We will walk through some of the most useful log splitter maintenance tips.

Hoses that extend from the hydraulic tank to the cylinder should be regularly inspected for wear and tear. Just keep in mind that these hoses have a lot of pressure so don’t feel around for leaks.

Water buildup will contaminate hydraulic fluid over time, so it’s important that you perform a regular inspection. If you notice a milky grey color in the fluid, then it has been contaminated.

This significantly decreases the efficiency of the log splitter and will lead to other problems if left unchecked. Replace contaminated hydraulic fluid as quickly as possible.

This one is a bit tricky so you will have to take extra steps. The hydraulic pump contains a power take-off coupling that can sometimes get loose. Inspect it at least once a year. Here’s the challenge.

If the coupling is loose, then you have to change the bearings since it’s not feasible to tighten the coupling itself. The pump will eventually fail to start up if the coupling gets too loose.

The ram must be regularly greased in order to ensure proper operation of a log splitter. Plus, the ram will get rusty if it’s not covered in grease. Needless to say, that will damage the whole machine.

If you happen to notice rust on the ram during your inspection, gently sand it off and then apply grease to the affected area. If left unchecked, rust will break the hydraulic seal and lead to expensive damage, and you may end up having to shop for a new log splitter hydraulic cylinder.

This log splitter maintenance tip is only applicable if your machine operates on a gas-powered engine. If so, then you need to inspect it regularly just like you would any other engine.

There are certain indicators that something’s wrong, so never ignore unusual operation. The most common indicator with a hydraulic log splitter is excessive vibration.

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Trapped air in hydraulic systems can adversely impact performance because air is compressible and hydraulic fluid is not. This means that the density and volume of hydraulic fluid remain the same with changes in pressure. The stability of hydraulic fluid in response to pressure changes is demonstrated when an excavator operator moves a directional control valve to open a flow path to an actuator used to move the excavator’s arm. Fluid pressure on the actuator increases and leads to movement. Because the fluid is incompressible, the opening of the directional control valve instantly transmits fluid pressure through the system to the actuator; the result is an immediate and precise movement. When the actuator has completed the desired movement, the operator moves the directional control valve to an off position. This closes the flow path to the actuator, stops fluid flow and pressure, and causes the actuator movement to stop immediately. There is instant, accurate, and precise movement and efficient use of energy.

When air is present in a hydraulic system, the desired instant system reaction is slowed and results in a slower actuator response or a “spongy feel.” This is due to the compressible nature of the trapped air.

Air pockets can also interfere with system startup/priming and may cause NVH (noise, vibration, and harness) problems. This occurrence, coupled with wasted energy and system inefficiencies, can result in customer complaints and overall customer dissatisfaction.

There are two prevalent examples of air found in hydraulic systems: trapped air and dissolved or entrained air. Trapped air inside a fluidic system is typically an air pocket that is difficult to flush out or remove. It can occur during an initial green run (following new production), after system maintenance, or during a key-off event (such as system shutdown); it can also accumulate over time during system operation. Dissolved or entrained air consists of small air bubbles suspended or contained in a fluid; the entrained air bubbles flow through the system in the hydraulic fluid. When the system is stopped, the air can migrate upwards and collect in system passages, creating additional pockets of trapped air.

The drilled hole method aims to machine the smallest diameter hole inside the housing that may be reliably and economically fabricated—about 0.5 mm (0.020 of an inch). The intent is to allow the trapped air to escape back to the sump and minimize the amount of fluid that flows out of the system. However, there remains a constant fluid flow that results in significant hydraulic losses, inefficient system performance, and wasted energy. The larger the size of the hole, the greater the amount of wasted energy.

To compensate for these hydraulic losses, customers may need to run their pumps at higher speeds, thus consuming more energy. Alternatively, they can install a larger pump, but that will also consume more energy and add size and weight to the system. In some systems, there are multiple areas where trapped air accumulates. This requires additional drilled holes and results in increased inefficiencies. Customers may also attempt to machine holes of even smaller diameter, but this can result in frequent tool breakages during the manufacturing process. Machining smaller holes would necessitate reductions in tool feed and speed rates to compensate and would in turn increase fabrication costs.

The Air Bleed Orifice contains a small precision flow orifice with an integral safety screen for contamination protection. The orifice allows trapped air to escape back to the sump and is small enough to restrict most hydraulic fluid from passing; this minimizes continuous system losses. Typically, these orifices are installed in high spots where small air pockets can form during system operation. They are also used in spots where the air is difficult to remove during the initial evacuation and fill process after manufacturing.

The Air Bleed Orifice offers significant improvement in reducing wasted energy and flow: reductions of up to 99% less hydraulic loss as compared to the traditional methods.

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This 2-Stage pump fits a wide variety of log splitters and outdoor power equipment and works in both horizontal and vertical orientations. The included inlet nipple requires a 1" inner diameter suction hose.

Rated for up to 3,000 PSI at 3,600 RPM, this pump can power log splitters from 5 to 35 tons, depending on the inner diameter of the hydraulic cylinder. It features a fast cycle time by moving quickly when unloaded. It automatically shifts to low-flow/high-pressure mode at 500 PSI.

Be sure to use AW-32 10-Weight (ISO 32) or AW-46 20-Weight (ISO 46) light hydraulic fluid or Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. This pump is not designed for use with “universal” or "tractor" transmission oil, such as "303". The use of incorrect fluid may damage the pump and void the warranty.

Make sure the hydraulic fluid reservoir is not below the pump to ensure a sufficient flow of fluid to the pump. Suction-side filtration should be no finer than 150 microns. The use of a 10-25 micron filter on the suction side of the pump is too restrictive and will cause failure.

We recommend using an L-style jaw coupling to connect the pump to an engine. Couplings and mounting brackets are available. You should use at least a 5hp 163cc engine to maintain 3,600 RPM under load.

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A properly maintained hydraulic log splitter will allow you to split cord after cord of wood safely and efficiently. Use the following log splitter maintenance tips to ensure your machine continues to run smoothly and efficiently all year long.

If you suspect hydraulic fluid is leaking from your log splitter, you can check by passing a piece of cardboard or wood underneath the damaged area. If drops of fluid are present on the cardboard, you"ve located the leak. When checking for hydraulic fluid leaks, be sure to wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself from dangerous fluids.

When hydraulic fluid is low in your log splitter, the machine will operate with noticeably less power. To add the appropriate amount of hydraulic fluid, you must first remove the oil filling plug. Then, fill with hydraulic fluid until the reservoir is three-fourths full.

After you have added the correct amount of hydraulic fluid, you"ll need to remove, or bleed, the trapped air from the cylinder. To remove the trapped air, first start the engine, then use the control handle to extend and retract the wedge twelve complete cycles.

Be sure to clean the machine regularly to remove oil, grease and debris. Make sure the machine is always turned off before you perform any cleaning. Also, remove debris around the machine as you work to prevent anything from getting lodged in the log splitter during operation.

If any log splitter parts are worn or broken, replace them before operating your machine. Compare the part and model number to the new part when you"re ready to make the purchase. This will ensure you buy the right part for your specific hydraulic log splitter.

With these basic hydraulic log splitter maintenance tips, you"ll be able to keep your machine in prime working order and ready to operate for years to come. To ensure proper maintenance of your log splitter, refer to your operator"s manual for repair and maintenance instructions specific to your model. Following the manufacturer"s recommended maintenance instructions will ensure that your log splitter runs safely and efficiently so you can split more wood at a faster pace. We know you depend on your wood splitter to work properly, so trust Cub Cadet to help you properly maintain, clean and operate your machine with confidence. Use our Parts Finder to locate and order any replacement parts you may need for maintenance.

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Yes, all YARDMAX splitters come with a 2-Way wedge, if your machine also has a 4-way wedge you simply remove the 4-way wedge to reveal the 2-way underneath.

Over time your YARDMAX log splitter wedge will dull. If you notice decreased performance, we recommend sharpening the wedge using a fine-toothed file, smoothing any burrs or crushed areas along the cutting edge. For questions about sharpening the wedge, call us at 844-YARDMAX.

In the vertical position splitters are better when working with logs that are very heavy. Large logs can be rolled into place at ground level and split with ease. In the horizontal position splitters will need logs lifted on to them. Smaller logs that are easier to handle, resting on the beam of a horizontal splitter. All YARDMAX gas log splitters can work in the horizontal position and are easily adjusted to the vertical position.