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Usually it is necessary to pump every day until displacement depending on the pit size. Generally this would mean about five days of pumping pit fluid and cuttings prior to mud up. Once mud up occurs the pump will run about every other day through out the rest of the well. So for example, a 12 day well, would have 8 days pumping and 4 standby days for a total of $4,560.
Additionally, there would be approximately 100 gallons of diesel consumed at approximately $3 per gallon for $300. Set up and tear down is a total of $750 and average mileage would run an estimated $200. Typically overnight charges would be required for 5 nights which would be $375. Total pump charge for a typical well would be approximately $6,185.
As usual, winter — or the slow season — is the time most drillers take the time to maintain their equipment in order to get ready for the peak season. One of the main parts that usually needs attention is the mud pump. Sometimes, it is just a set of swabs to bring it up to snuff, but often, tearing it down and inspecting the parts may reveal that other things need attention. For instance, liners. I can usually run three sets of swabs before it is time to change the liner. New liners and swabs last a good long time. The second set of swabs lasts less, and by the time you put in your third set of swabs, it’s time to order new liners. Probably rods too. It’s not always necessary to change pistons when you change swabs. Sometimes just the rubber needs to be changed, saving money. How do you tell? There is a small groove around the outside of the piston. As it wears, the groove will disappear and it’s time for a new piston.
The wear groove on a piston can be a good indicator of the general health of your pump. If the wear is pretty even all around, chances are the pump is in pretty good shape. But if you see wear on one side only, that is a clue to dig deeper. Uneven wear is a sign that the rods are not stroking at the exact angle that they were designed to, which is parallel to the liner. So, it’s time to look at the gear end. Or as some folks call it, “the expensive end.”
The wear groove on a piston can be a good indicator of the general health of your pump. If the wear is pretty even all around, chances are the pump is in pretty good shape. But if you see wear on one side only, that is a clue to dig deeper.
After you get the cover off the gear end, the first thing to look at will be the oil. It needs to be fairly clean, with no drill mud in it. Also look for metal. Some brass is to be expected, but if you put a magnet in the oil and come back later and it has more than a little metal on it, it gets more serious. The brass in the big end of the connecting rod is a wearable part. It is made to be replaced at intervals — usually years. The most common source of metal is from the bull and pinion gears. They transmit the power to the mud. If you look at the pinion gear closely, you will find that it wears faster than the bull gear. This is for two reasons. First, it is at the top of the pump and may not receive adequate lubrication. The second reason is wear. All the teeth on both the bull and pinion gears receive the same amount of wear, but the bull gear has many more teeth to spread the wear. That is why, with a well maintained pump, the bull gear will outlast the pinion gear three, four or even five times. Pinion gears aren’t too expensive and are fairly easy to change.
This process is fairly straightforward machine work, but over the years, I have discovered a trick that will bring a rebuild up to “better than new.” When you tear a pump down, did you ever notice that there is about 1-inch of liner on each end that has no wear? This is because the swab never gets to it. If it has wear closer to one end than the other, your rods are out of adjustment. The trick is to offset grind the journals. I usually offset mine about ¼-inch. This gives me a ½-inch increase in the stroke without weakening the gear end. This turns a 5x6 pump into a 5½x6 pump. More fluid equals better holes. I adjust the rods to the right length to keep from running out the end of the liner, and enjoy the benefits.
Other than age, the problem I have seen with journal wear is improper lubrication. Smaller pumps rely on splash lubrication. This means that as the crank strokes, the rods pick up oil and it lubricates the crank journals. If your gear end is full of drill mud due to bad packing, it’s going to eat your pump. If the oil is clean, but still shows crank wear, you need to look at the oil you are using.
Oil that is too thick will not be very well picked up and won’t find its way into the oil holes in the brass to lubricate the journals. I’ve seen drillers that, when their pump starts knocking, they switch to a heavier weight oil. This actually makes the problem worse. In my experience, factory specified gear end oil is designed for warmer climates. As you move north, it needs to be lighter to do its job. Several drillers I know in the Northern Tier and Canada run 30 weight in their pumps. In Georgia, I run 40W90. Seems to work well.
Slurry pumps are typically larger in size than standard pumps,with more horsepower, and built with more rugged bearings and shafts. The most common type of slurry pump is the centrifugal pump. These pumps use a rotating impeller to move the slurry, similar to how a water-like liquid would move through a standard centrifugal pump.
Fewer, thicker vanes on the impeller. This allows the passage of solids more readily — typically 2-5 vanes, compared to 5-9 vanes on a standard centrifugal pump.
For pumping abrasive slurries, these types of pumps may also be made from specialized high wear alloys such as AL-6XN® or Hastelloy® C-22®. Hardening stainless steel is also a common option for abrasive slurries, with Expanite and Armoly being two hardening processes.
These pumps employ rotating screws to move liquids and solids from one end of the pump to another. The screws" turning action creates a spinning motion that pumps material.
These pumps use a flexible membrane that expands the volume of the pumping chamber, bringing in fluid from an inlet valve and then discharging it through an outlet valve.
Choosing the right pump for your slurry application can be a complex task due to the balance of many factors including flow, pressure, viscosity, abrasiveness, particle size, and particle type. An applications engineer, who knows how to take all of these factors into account, can be a great help in navigating the many pump options available.~ Matthew Sato, Applied Products Sales Manager, Ampco Pumps
Pressure PumpsLeading Wholesale Trader of mud pump bt 32.2 tssp ( 5 hp ), mud pump bt 611 tssp ( 15 hp ), mud pump bt 43.7 tssp ( 7.5 hp ), mud pump bt 700 sspf ( 1 hp ) and self priming automatic pump ( bt 50 spap / 0.5 hp ) from Pune.
Dewatering pumps are centrifugal pumps installed in a building that is situated below the groundwater level, to reduce the water level and then maintain it at this level. One example is in underground mining in which water penetrating into the adits is pumped up to the surface.
Dewatering pumps are centrifugal pumps installed in a building that is situated below the groundwater level, to reduce the water level and then maintain it at this level. One example is in underground mining in which water penetrating into the adits is pumped up to the surface.
Dewatering pumps are centrifugal pumps installed in a building that is situated below the groundwater level, to reduce the water level and then maintain it at this level. One example is in underground mining in which water penetrating into the adits is pumped up to the surface.
Dewatering pumps are centrifugal pumps installed in a building that is situated below the groundwater level, to reduce the water level and then maintain it at this level. One example is in underground mining in which water penetrating into the adits is pumped up to the surface.
Self-priming pumps are used in various industrial and commercial facilities, from steel mills, power plants, and sewage treatment facilities to wineries, breweries, and more. Common applications include: Pumping water, fuels, clear or gray water, raw sewage, industrial wastewater, and more. Liquid transfer systems.
Mud recycling systems were once considered optional equipment. Environmental regulations continue to become more stringent and we must all responsibly make a contribution to protect our fragile ecosystem.
Using mud recyclers are a valuable asset to drilling contractors, as well-conditioned drilling fluid can save resources, time and money by reducing the amount of water and chemicals needed by reusing your bentonite and water. This helps maintain borehole stability with consistent mud properties through the entire circulation of the fluid and you haul off mainly the drilled solids, not the entire mud returns, including the liquid.
Drillers considering a mud recycler often ask: “Where do I start?” There are factors to consider before purchasing (or renting) a mud recycler, and, just like sizing the drill rig, sizing the recycler is equally important to your success. The following are some of the questions to ask yourself before making your purchase:
These factors are important to know so that you use a recycler that is sized to clean the mud and protect the components on the rig, pump and cleaner.
As a general rule, size the recycler cleaning capacity to one and a half to two times the pumping volume (max gpm) of the triplex pump. HDD drillers normally run thicker fluids due to the low vertical height and long horizontal lengths of their bores; thicker fluid makes it more difficult for the shakers and cones to process (separate) the solids from the liquids. This is largely due to the natural coating ability of bentonite — It wants to encapsulate the solids and “hold on” to them. By upsizing the recycler, the solid particles have a second or third opportunity to process through the mud recycler for removal before going back to the rig.
Some mud recyclers provide an “onboard” mud pump that was sized specifically to the recycler. This enables the driller to use all available drill rig horsepower toward the rotation and push-pull of the drill pipe, thereby not “robbing” it for an onboard triplex pump.
When choosing a linear shaker for your mud system, look for a long runway (area of length from the front of the shaker to the end where the cuttings dump off). The longer length shaker bed allows extra time for solids to separate from the liquid, and result in drier solids leaving the mud system for disposal. You can also increase the angle of the shaker bed by five degrees to further increase the travel time of the solids.
Proper shaker screen selection enhances the results of the mud recycler, and, combined with the G-Force of the shaker, works in tandem to maximize solids dryness. In the past, shaker screens were sized by mesh size.
Identification of particle sizes from core samples taken on each drilling location provides drillers valuable information and aids in selecting screens. Drilling contractors should carry a couple of testing tools to measure the effectiveness of a of the mud recycler while drilling. These tools are: a Marsh funnel and cup, sand content kit and mud weight scales. Taking mud samples from the return pit or possum belly before the mud is processed, the underflow and overflow of the cones and the clean mud tank help monitor the effectiveness of each component of the recycler, and the driller can make component adjustments to achieve maximum efficiency.
In addition to the shale shakers, another way to size the processing capability of the mud recycler is to look at the hydrocyclone. Depending on the size of the mud recycling system, cone size will be 4, 5, 10 or 12 in. Each size cone has a micron “cut point,” and represents the size of the smallest particle the cone can “pull.” Four- and 5-in. cones have a 20-micron “cut point,” and 10- and 12-in. cones have a 74-micron “cut point.” Smaller mud systems normally have two section tanks, with a ”dirty” tank under the scalping shaker and a “clean” tank under the mud cleaner (shaker with desilting cones), while larger systems can have three section tanks with scalping, desanding and desilting.
Borehole returns require transport into the recycler via a “trash” pump properly sized for the job. Different pumps are available, but the three most common are: 1) submersible, 2) semi-submersible, and 3) aboveground centrifugal with a foot valve. Totally submersible pumps are generally the smallest in size, have a flooded suction to help in priming, and though the most convenient option, are usually the most expensive. Semi-submersible trash pumps still have a flooded suction, but the drive motor is not submerged into the fluid. Semi-submersible pumps work well, but are heavier, and longer than the submersible pumps. Another option is an above ground centrifugal pump with a foot valve, and once primed, is dependable and normally used on larger recyclers for their increased volume capacities.
If your drilling crew has never operated a mud recycler, be sure that you are provided with training and try renting a unit to make sure it is the right “fit” prior to purchase. Be familiar with the maintenance requirements of your mud system; usually the owner’s manual is sufficient, but inquire if the manufacturer offers training videos, onsite or plant training sessions and — the most important — technical support.
In an age where protection of our planet is a major concern, so should your choice of mud systems. Choose a recycler that is respectful to the environment and leaves your jobsite as clean as possible. Do your research, talk to other drillers, decide what you need and you will be able to make the best decision for you and your company.