mud pump broken bolts for sale

During the 1950’s the Mission” 1780 type “W” pumps were introduced to replace duplex pumps while creating the first low pressure mud system. The use of a high quality concentric type centrifugal pump allowed abrasive fluids to be mixed and transferred while reducing initial and maintenance costs for the drilling industry. The low-pressure mud system with Mission 1 780 Type “W” centrifugal pumps became the industry standard.

As well depths increased so did the need for heavier mud weights. When the mud weight began exceeding 14 ppg the need for a pump that could withstand greater horsepower loads arose. During the 1970’s Mission organized a design team that engineered the Mission Magnum. The Magnum was designed to have the same footprint, flange locations, and drive shaft diameter as the 1780 “W”. This allowed a 1780 to be replaced by a Magnum without any skid modifications. The Magnums were originally engineered with a 2-1/2″ shaft (3″ between the bearings), double row bearings with an engineered life of over 2 years at 200 HP, larger impellers and heavier frames. The Magnum allowed drilling contractors to upgrade their centrifugal pumps and mix heavier fluids.

The National Oilwell Varco” Mission centrifugal pump line has proven to be the best centrifugal design for handling abrasive mud. This pump line offers a broad selection of innovative features for a variety of routine, demanding, abrasive and corrosive applications. These pumps are designed for a wide range of flow rates, from a few gallons per minute to thousands of gallons per minute.

Each pump contains the finest materials, engineering and craftsmanship available in the industry. Described are like features of these pump lines and unique features are described on the following pages.

National Oilwell Varco utilizes unique design features developed for slurries. Three major differences from most pump designs include the concentric casing, wider impellers and increased re-circulation areas. Each feature contributes to reducing wear when handling abrasive fluids.

All of the pumps feature a concentric casing. This casing averages 37% thicker than conventional pump casings, and up to 50% thicker for the larger, mud pumping models. They are pressure rated at 1 .5 times the flange rating and are designed with a 1 /8″ erosion allowance. The concentric style casing has proven to offer the greatest pump life and reduced downtime. The walls of a concentric style casing are an equal distance from the impeller throughout the impeller circumference, which results in a smooth flow pattern. A volute style casing has a cutwater point that disturbs the fluid flow pattern creating an eddy. The concentric casing eliminates vibration, turbulence and aeration that is caused by the cutwater point in conventional volute pumps. It also reduces the high bearing loads and shaft deflection even at near shutoff flows.

The shaft is much larger in diameter than conventional pump shafts for heavy-duty performance, minimum deflection and increased operating life of the seal or packing. With a 2-1/2″ diameter at the seal area and 3″ diameter between the bearings these pumps can be direct connected or belt driven.

A 2011 model year car is "generally" too new to have a bolt so stuck that it is broken on removal. It is possible the mechanic encountered a stuck bolt but simply used the wrong technique to remove it (common mistake). It is possible, but less likely, that the bolt was defective. Either circumstance can be determined, in a forensic examination of sorts, by examining what remains of the bolt, the amount of corrosion, and other standard engineering factors. Again, though, simply due to the newness of the vehicle I would be very suspicious of any "reasons" (or excuses) given to you for a bolt breaking. Unless the car is more than 10 years old, the real "reason" is almost always improper disassembly. Furthermore, charging $1,100 to fix a broken bolt is unheard of, unless you are working on the Space Shuttle, and so obviously there is more to this story. YourMechanic can take over the job, if the car were towed to your residence but then, of course, you would have to disentangle yourself from the present shop. Keep the old broken segment of the bolt and take photographs of the stub that is stuck in the head or block and the area upon removal. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.