mud pump displacement formula for sale

Rig pump output, normally in volume per stroke, of mud pumps on the rig is  one of important figures that we really need to know because we will use pump out put figures to calculate many parameters such as bottom up strokes,  wash out depth, tracking drilling fluid, etc. In this post, you will learn how to calculate pump out put for triplex pump and duplex pump in bothOilfield and Metric Unit.

This reciprocating pump rod load calculator is meant to quickly calculate the rod load of a plunger pump. By multiplying the pressure in the fluid chamber by the square area of the plunger, we can accurately calculate how much force is pushing back on the crankshaft of the pump.

Enter data into any 2 of the following 3 fields and press calculate. Note that this plunger pump rod load calculator is only for single acting plunger pumps, and not for double acting pumps.

Impeller sizes are determined by calculating the TOR (sometimes called the time of rollover) for each compartment. This is the time, in seconds, required to completely move the fluid in a compartment (Table 10.1) and can be calculated by knowing the tank volume and impeller displacement:

2. Pump Output Volume - Pump output tables must be adjusted for estimated or measured pump efficiencies. Triplex pumps usually have an efficiency between 90-98%. Double action duplex pumps usually have an efficiency between 85-95%.

The following two equations calculate pump output at 100% volumetric efficiency. The constant, K, may be changed to obtain units of bbl/STK, gal/STK, or Liter/STK.

3. Mud Pit Volume - The same capacity equations shown in Dilution of Water-Based Muds hold true for volume. Depth will be the actual depth of mud in the mud pits.

a. Open-End Pipe - Displacement, as related to drill pipe, drill collars and tubulars is the volume of fluid that the pipe will displace if placed into fluid open ended to allow it to fill inside. The displacement volume equals the volume of metal in the pipe. The pipe"s outside diameter, OD, and inside diameter, ID, are used in the equation below.

3. Closed-End Pipe - Displacement, as related to drill pipe, drill collars and tubulars is the volume of fluid that the pipe will displace if placed into fluid with the lower end closed to allow no fluid inside. The pipe"s outside diameter, OD, is used in the equation below.

Below are equations that allow annulus capacity and displacement volume calculations to be made in other useful units. In these equations, "D" represents the larger diameter and "d" represents the smaller diameter.

We provide hydraulic components & repair services for industrial applications like paper mills, saw mills, steel mills, recycling plants, oil & gas applications and mobile applications, including construction, utility, mining, agricultural and marine equipment. This includes hydraulic pumps, motors, valves, servo/prop valves, PTOs, cylinders & parts.

Oil and Gas drilling process - Pupm output for Triplex and Duplex pumpsTriplex Pump Formula 1 PO, bbl/stk = 0.000243 x ( in) E.xample: Determine the pump output, bbl/stk, at 100% efficiency for a 7" by 12". triplex pump: PO @ 100%,= 0.000243 x 7 x12 PO @ 100% = 0.142884bbl/stk Adjust the pump output for 95% efficiency: Decimal equivalent = 95 + 100 = 0.95 PO @ 95% = 0.142884bbl/stk x 0.95 PO @ 95% = 0.13574bbl/stk Formula 2 PO, gpm = [3(D x 0.7854)S]0.00411 x SPM where D = liner diameter, in. S = stroke length, in. SPM = strokes per minute Determine the pump output, gpm, for a 7" by 12". triplex pump at 80 strokes per minute: PO, gpm = [3(7 x 0.7854) 1210.00411 x 80 PO, gpm = 1385.4456 x 0.00411 x 80 PO = 455.5 gpm

Example:Duplex Pump Formula 1 0.000324 x (liner diameter, in) x ( stroke lengh, in) = ________ bbl/stk -0.000162 x (rod diameter, in) x ( stroke lengh, in) = ________ bbl/stk Pump out put @ 100% eff = ________bbl/stk Example: Determine the output, bbl/stk, of a 5 1/2" by 14" duplex pump at 100% efficiency. Rod diameter = 2.0": 0.000324 x 5.5 x 14 = 0.137214bbl/stk -0.000162 x 2.0 x 14 = 0.009072bbl/stk Pump output @ 100% eff. = 0.128142bbl/stk Adjust pump output for 85% efficiency: Decimal equivalent = 85 100 = 0.85 PO@85%)= 0.128142bbl/stk x 0.85 PO@ 85% = 0.10892bbl/stk Formula 2

PO. bbl/stk = 0.000162 x S[2(D) - d] where S = stroke length, in. D = liner diameter, in. d = rod diameter, in. Example: Determine the output, bbl/stk, of a 5 1/2". by 14". duplex pump @ 100% efficiency. Rod diameter = 2.0in.: PO@100%=0.000162 x 14 x [ 2 (5.5) - 2 ] PO @ 100%)= 0.000162 x 14 x 56.5 PO@ 100%)= 0.128142bbl/stk Adjust pump output for 85% efficiency: PO@85%,= 0.128142bb/stkx 0.85 PO@8.5%= 0.10892bbl/stk Metric calculation Pump output, liter/min = pump output. liter/stk x pump speed, spm. S.I. units calculation Pump output, m/min = pump output, liter/stk x pump speed, spm. Mud Pumps Mud pumps drive the mud around the drilling system. Depending on liner size availability they can be set up to provide high pressure and low flow rate, or low pressure and high flow rate. Analysis of the application and running the Drill Bits hydraulics program will indicate which liners to recommend. Finding the specification of the mud pumps allows flow rate to be calculated from pump stroke rate, SPM. Information requiredo Pump manufacturer o Number of pumps o Liner size and gallons per revolution Weight As a drill bit cutting structure wears more weight will be required to achieve the same RoP in a homogenous formation. PDC wear flats, worn inserts and worn milled tooth teeth will make the bit drill less efficiently. Increase weight in increments of 2,000lbs approx. In general, weight should be applied before excessive rotary speed so that the cutting structure maintains a significant depth of cut to stabilise the bit and prevent whirl. If downhole weight measurements are available they can be used in combination with surface measurements to gain a more accurate representation of what is happening in the well bore.

This approach works well but relying on a printed reference is not without the risk since the wrong value can still be selected from the fine print of a reference table, or the reference document can be damaged or lost (e.g., dropped in the mud pit) altogether.

So, let’s address the alternative approach of using simple mathematical formulas to determine the same information. Although the reliance on a single sheet of paper to obtain the needed value is avoided with this approach, the potential for human error or miscalculation remains, meaning regardless of the approach, great care in determining such values is prudent.

Once we have obtained the number of units we need, we can convert that value into a familiar unit that we’re comfortable working with. For example, we may use a formula to determine the volume of a borehole to be 100 cubic feet (ft3), but we want to know the answer in gallons. Since we know that every cubic foot contains 7.48 gallons, we can easily convert that borehole volume to 748 gallons.

We want to know the volume of material (filter pack sand, cement grout, etc.) that is to be placed in the annulus to assure the annular void has been properly and completely filled (Figure 1). The conceptual diagram showing the variables used for calculating an annular void is shown in Figure 2, and the formula for the annular volume calculation is:

In this calculation, the “d” value is the diameter of the casing or pipe diameter, and the “D” value is the borehole diameter (Figure 2). The sump area below the base of the casing has only one diameter in the open borehole, so the “d” value is omitted, and the formula just becomes:

If excessive hydraulic pressures are exerted on a well casing, it will collapse. We generally know the collapse strength of the well casing from the casing supplier or from standard references such as the charts in American Water Works Association Standard A100. The hydraulic pressures applied to the outside of the well casing depend on the density of the liquid and the depth of submergence (Figure 1). Applying the fluid density (measured in the field) and depth (Figure 2), the formula for hydraulic pressure head calculation is:

The hydraulic head formula is applicable to the hydraulic pressure head for any liquid, but we most commonly use this calculation during cement seal installation, since cement grout is generally the heaviest liquid being introduced to the annulus during well construction.

The intermediate casing can be sealed using the pressure grouting technique (Figure 3) to pump cement slurry down through the drill pipe and out to the annulus through a float shoe (a drillable check valve connected to the base of the casing). The inside of the intermediate casing is kept full of water during the cement placement to equilibrate hydraulic pressures inside and outside the casing. After the intermediate casing is sealed with the pressure grouted cement, the float shoe can be drilled out and the borehole advanced for installation of the screen and filter pack in the lower part of the well.

The buoyancy calculation is more of a conceptual comparison than a pure mathematical formula. This analysis involves some visualization be made on the part of the groundwater professional.

The pounds per linear foot of any casing or screen material is generally provided by the casing or screen supplier, but the variables in Figure 2 can be applied to the following formula to estimate the casing string weight:

This string weight formula is applicable to blank casing only, and material suppliers should be consulted for detailed pounds per linear foot values and safe hang weights for well screens. This formula is broadly applicable, however, and handy for a quick double check on material weights.

There are several calculations that are commonly applied by drilling fluid engineers (mud engineers) to determine the time period required for the fluid to move from one location in the borehole to another. Some of the more common equations are described below.

The uphole velocity calculation provides a determination of the speed at which the drilling mud will flow as it moves up the borehole. For direct air rotary or reverse circulation drilling methods, the uphole velocity is high, so this calculation is generally applicable only for the direct mud-rotary drilling method. The formula for uphole velocity is:

Notice the uphole velocity formula is similar to the annular volume formula in that both those calculations use the factor (D2 – d2) to address the cross-sectional area of the annulus. However, the constants in these two formulas are different (0.005454 versus 24.51), which can be confusing. Keep in mind, however, that the constants primarily just provide unit conversions.

If we do the same thing by first calculating the annular volume and then applying the 10 gpm flow rate to it, we will get an identical result of 3.83 ft/minute. The uphole velocity formula provides a more direct method to determine uphole velocity, whereas the annular volume formula provides a more direct method to calculate the annular volume.

We can calculate the bottoms-up time by using the uphole velocity formula with the borehole depth and drilling mud flow rate plugged in, but that flow rate is being generated by the mud pump, and positive displacement mud pumps (duplex or triplex) are almost never equipped with a flow meter. To determine the flow coming from the mud pump, we can use the formulas:

Remember the strokes are counted in both the forward and backward directions on a duplex pump, but only in the forward direction on a triplex pump. Drillers often have reference charts that provide oilfield barrels per stroke (bbl/stroke), which can be converted to gpm by timing the strokes per minute and converting barrels to gallons (1 barrel = 42 gallons).

A specified volume of drilling fluids (called a pill) can be circulated to a particular depth interval within the borehole (called spotting), so that the additives in the pill of drilling mud can address the borehole problem at a particular depth of the borehole. This is shown in Figure 6(C).

The calculation for time required to spot a pill of drillingfluid involves determining the pumping time (at the calculated flow rate) required to displace the fluid so that the drilling mud additives are located adjacent to the problematic interval. This approach is used by mud engineers to address problems such as lost circulation or stuck drill pipe.

The formulas and calculations provided in this column and elsewhere provide important tools for us to quantify the variables we need for water well design and construction. However, it is important to remember that “doing the math” is not a replacement for applying professional knowledge and consideration to determine whether the mathematical result makes common sense.

Whether you’re working on a recreational boat or a giant cargo ship, you should never head out to sea without a bilge pump. Without these, there are so many things that could go wrong.

Bilge pumps are a type of marine water pump found on both large and small ships. They are responsible for removing water accumulating bilge wells and throwing it overboard.

There are automatic bilge pumps, and there are manual ones. There are small plastic boat bilge pumps for boats, and there are heavy-duty cast iron ones for ships.

Bilge pumps have been around since antiquity. These were the only pumps ocean vessels carried in the old days – showing how essential they are to seafaring.

Most boat bilge pumps come with an automatic float switch. This switch turns the pump on whenever water rises above a certain level. This way, you don’t always have to check your bilge.

If your ship has a small puncture and water is rushing in, a bilge pump can spit this water out faster than it comes in (depending on the hole’s size and your pump’s GPM).

The removal of the incoming water allows you to repair the hole or make an emergency docking. Note: You should never rely on your bilge pump for staying afloat. If your boat has a hole, repair it immediately.

Installing a designated emergency bilge pump with the highest capacity possible is highly recommended. You can also use ballast and firefighting pumps to help pump out the water in case of an emergency.

Centrifugal pumps move water by turning rotational energy into kinetic energy. Inside the pump, a spinning impeller pushes water into the discharge. This creates low pressure in the pump, which sucks more water in.

When the water leaves the discharge, this creates low pressure within the casing, which pulls more water into the pump. Centrifugal pumps need priming to work for this reason.

Because of this, you can never remove all bilge water with a centrifugal pump. There will always be some leftover which will need another type of pump for removal.

For big ships, we recommend getting a self-priming centrifugal pump. These can separate the air inside the casing from the water. The water circulates in the pump, but the air discharges – creating low-pressure, which pulls in more water until the pump is full of water.

Horizontal bilge pumpsare the most powerful option for ships. Instead of going into the bilge well, these pumps are strong enough to suck the water out through pipes.

Diaphragm pumps are a type of positive displacement pump. Unlike centrifugal pumps, these aren’t typical on large ships. Their capacity isn’t as high as centrifugal types, and they also aren’t very good at handling debris.

For one, they don’t need any priming. Diaphragm pumps can run completely dry, whereas centrifugal pumps will get damaged. Because of this, diaphragm pumps can remove all the water in the bilge.

Diaphragm pumps also have an easier time pushing or pulling water upwards. Where a small centrifugal pump might have a hard time removing water from deeper bilges, a diaphragm pump will have no problem.

Diaphragm pumps work by using a diaphragm and check valves. The diaphragm pulls up, creating a vacuum in the pump that sucks water (or air) through the inlet check valve. When the diaphragm presses down, this forces the water out through the outlet check valve.

Because a diaphragm pump can also pull air, you don’t have to place them close to the bilge water. Putting them high above the bilge won’t need priming or as much power as a centrifugal pump in a similar position would.

Manual diaphragm pumps are not electronically powered. Use a lever to pull the diaphragm open and push it closed manually. These have the advantage that they work even when your electrical system is down.

Reciprocating pumps work by using a piston and check valves. The piston pulls up, creating a vacuum in the pump that sucks water (or air) through the inlet check valve. When the piston presses down, this forces the water out through the outlet check valve.

Because the piston is air-tight, you also don’t have to put it inside the boat bilge. However, reciprocating boat bilge pumps cannot tolerate debris. Debris will lodge in between the piston and the pump’s walls, jamming or destroying the pump.

Flexible impellers are another type of positive displacement pump. They are self-priming and can remove all the water from the bilge well. They are also capable of carrying solids and debris.

However, unlike diaphragm and reciprocating types, you should never run a flexible impeller pump dry. Without water, the friction between the impeller and casing will burn the rubber impeller.

Flexible impeller pumps use a rubber impeller and a cam to function. As the spinning impeller meets the cam, it bends, squeezing its trapped water out the discharge. When the impeller leaves the cam, negative pressure creates a suction that pulls in more water.

Because of their material and simple design, flexible impeller pumps are affordable. Their design also allows you to run them in reverse should you want to.

The ocean is not the place to find out your pump doesn’t cut it. Taking the time to choose the right pump can spell the difference between sinking and saving your ship.

Also, knowing what you’re looking for ahead will ensure that you don’t spend a lot of money on a pump that doesn’t fit your everyday bilge pump needs.

You may use other types of pumps, such as diaphragms, for thoroughly clearing out the bilge well. But for bilge transfer and emergencies, nothing can match the output of centrifugal bilge pumps.

Submersible centrifugal pumps may have difficulty pushing water up if you place the discharge hose high above the bilge. But they’re also cheap, easy to maintain, and can move a lot of water. If you set up your bilge correctly, these will be perfect for you.

Reciprocating pumps aren’t quite as popular. These are incredibly efficient when dealing with high-viscosity liquids like sludge, which isn’t common in small boats.

GPM, or gallons per minute, refers to your bilge pump’s pumping performance or flow. The higher the GPM, the faster your bilge pump can drain your boat bilge. Generally, the bigger your pump, the more GPM it will have.

A good rule of thumb is to get the highest GPM that’s reasonable for your boat. Your bilge pump is what will save you when you’re sinking. That’s why you’ll want one with as much GPM as possible.

One misconception a lot of people have is that smaller boats can get away with a small pump. Smaller boats will need the largest pump they can get since their small hulls will fill up with water much faster than large ships.

That said, you also have to be reasonable. Smaller boats won’t have space for an enormous and heavy pump. Consider the pump’s size and weight when choosing because it might be too bulky for your boat.

Centrifugal pumps have a hard time pushing water up vertically. To know if your pump can handle your discharge pipe’s height and length, calculate the total head and compare it to your pump’s head rating.

Elevationrefers to the total vertical rise in feet. If your discharge pipe’s end is 20 ft above your pump, your elevation is 20ft (regardless of the pipe’s overall length).

Manufacturers rate a pump’s GPM in ideal conditions, where the water is right next to the pump, and the discharge is horizontal. A 10GPM pump will empty 10 gallons of water in a minute with these conditions.

You may think that your 10 GPM pump is strong enough to eliminate all nuisance water and maybe even save you from sinking. In reality, your 10GPM pump might only be moving at 3GPM.

The GPM goes down because there is about a 20% capacity drop due to voltage (small boat bilge pumps are tested at 13.6 volts while most marine batteries only run at 12), 30% for head height, and 20% from hose resistance.

Those numbers are estimates. But you should consider that unless you have the ideal setup, you may only be getting 30% of your pump’s rated GPM. So don’t take chances. Get the highest capacity pump your boat can handle to stay safe.

Unless you have a giant ship, a manual bilge pump is vital. If water gets to your electric system, your bilge pump will shut off. The only way to save your boat or buy time then is by using a manual bilge pump.

Make sure your manual bilge pump is easily accessible and can operate from a comfortable position. Pumping water off your boat bilge is tiresome, so you don’t want to be cramped or in an awkward position while using your hand pump.

Nowadays, bilge pump systems on ships require inspection for compliance. However, too many small boaters still unknowingly make mistakes when installing bilge pumps.

Every watertight compartment in your vessel needs a bilge pump or a pipe connected to a bilge pump. Every room in your boat where water can’t flow to the next one needs a bilge pump.

In large vessels, pipes from every compartment connect to three, four, or more bilge pumps. The draining of every area without installing a pump in each one is possible because of this.

However, that is only possible because ships use large and powerful bilge pumps with elaborate piping systems. For smaller boats, you should keep one (or two) bilge pumps in every watertight area.

For ships, you’ll want at least one pump on the starboard and one on the port. You also shouldn’t group the marine bilge pumps close to each other. In an emergency, you don’t want the bilge pumps together because they will all get flooded.

Bilge pumps in ships use electric motors, the ship’s engine, or emergency generators for power. An emergency bilge pump should always have its own power supply.

There are several ways to switch on a bilge pump. You could turn them on manually in the engine control room (for ships) or connect them to the battery (for small boats). However, the ideal setup has automatic switches in place.

Float switches are simple devices that turn your bilge pump on when the water reaches a certain level – and turns them off once the water descends. Installing one of these is excellent since you won’t have to monitor your boat’s bilge water levels all the time.

Some ships need to turn on their bilge pump manually. To help with this, you can install bilge alarms to go off whenever the water has risen to a certain level. This way, you don’t have to go and check now and then.

Having a float switch is especially crucial if you’re using a centrifugal pump. Centrifugal pumps can’t run dry. If they do, they’ll get destroyed. That’s why having them switch off automatically before the water has fully descended is crucial.

When installing a float switch, make sure it is in a place that can’t get caught while rising. If it gets stuck, it won’t trigger your pump to start, and you may flood your boat.

As mentioned earlier, large vessels have elaborate piping systems that connect to the bilge pumps. Valves control which pipes are running and which lines are standing by.

For smaller boats, hoses are used instead of pipes. To lower the hose friction, get a smooth hose. Corrugated hoses increase friction and will further reduce your pump’s GPM.

A bilge pump takes bilge water and discharges it overboard. However, in ships where oils and other fluids mix with water in the bilge, this water must go through a filtering process first.

However, in emergencies, the whole bilge water management system is bypassed. All water goes straight overboard regardless of oil content. But this is only legal in emergencies – otherwise, under MARPOL regulations, the water pumped overboard must be under 15 ppm to prevent pollution.

Though centrifugal pumps can handle some debris, it isn’t ideal since it increases pressure and slows down the flow. That is why installing mud boxes on bilge pipes is a good idea.

If you set up everything correctly, nothing should go wrong. You won’t have to worry about problems, especially if you are using a centrifugal-type pump.

You may find your filter already clogged with dirt and debris. If so, clean it up immediately. If you have mud or strum boxes, it’s also essential to check them once in a while.

When it comes to choosing a marine bilge pump, reliability is of utmost importance. Your bilge pump is your last line of defense. If it fails, your ship is going down.

For small boats, brands like Rule Industries, Attwood, Albin, and Johnson Pump make great boat bilge pumps. You can buy these at your local marine supply, or you can also get them online.

When the demands are high, you need a pump that’s tailor-made to fit your ship’s needs. You need a pump that can stand up to every test and every international regulation. You need a pump you can trust to save your ship when things go wrong.

The ocean is no place to find out your pump does not make the grade. Trust your shipboard services to Carver Pump, the industry leader in shipboard centrifugal pumps.