mud pump foundation free sample

You’re researching foundation repair options and have come across the term “mud-pumping” and you want to know what it means. Or maybe you are thinking about when a foundation is lifted, what happens with the space underneath your home? There’s a void there now and does it get filled in or what?

Mud-pumping is a finishing step of foundation repair, but not every foundation repair contractor adds this final step. It’s not automatically done so you might be wondering why some companies would use this technique or what its advantages and disadvantages are.

At Anchor Foundation Repair, we have been repairing foundations since 1985 and began adding mud-pumping to all slab-on-grade foundation repairs in 1998. We decided to take every reasonable step to provide the most security and stability in foundation repairs to Brazos Valley homeowners and bought our first hydraulic mud pump at that time.

We know mud-pumping has great value and importance in a foundation repair project, it’s a standard part of our slab foundation repairs. But we can tell you about it in an objective way so that you can decide if it’s as important to you as it is to us.

We know that not everyone is trying to meet the same goals in selecting a foundation repair method or provider. We just want to give you all the information and options so that you can choose what works best for you and your home.

In a nutshell, foundation settlement coupled with foundation repair creates voids. Here’s why: a home with a slab foundation is built on the ground. Homes are heavy. Over time, the weight of the home will compress and compact the soil below it.

This initial compression causes the home to sink into the ground a bit. This is called settlement, and it’s not a bad thing unless it causesfoundation problemsfor your home.

Settlement can also occur because of the expansive clay soil we have in this area. Expansive clay expands when wet and contracts when dry. The drier the soil gets, the more it can contract, also causing a home to sink. It might not all sink evenly. This is how slab foundations can crack and possibly need repair.

Now, you could just scream into the void underneath your home. But more productively, you can consider filling it with mud-pumping material so that there is not a bunch of empty space between the bottom of your home and the earth. Mud-pumping helps lessen the opportunity for more foundation settlement or problems to arise.

Mud-pumping is not typically needed for pier and beam foundations, but for slab-on-grade foundation repair, it is an option. While mud-pumping is not *required* in foundation repair, it has many benefits for the homeowner.

So no, mud-pumping is not necessary to complete a foundation repair project, and manyfoundation repair companiesdon’t do it. Even though foundation repair contractors often skip this final step, you may want to seriously consider it. All the “whys” are in the next section.

Nature doesn’t like empty things, nature wants to fill them up. This is that “nature abhors a vacuum” thing. If the void under your home doesn’t get filled with mud-pumping material. It will very likely get filled with something else, like:

PRO #1: So one of the pros of filling voids with mud-pumping is that it takes up that empty space and prevents those areas from getting filled with something less desirable. The slurry material flows and fills every little space, permeating even the smallest pockets of air. But there are a couple more compelling reasons for you too . . .

PRO #2: Empty space creates weaker points and added stress to the foundation where it is not directly supported. Mud-pumping provides extra stability and holding power to your foundation without empty spaces under it. Having something solid underneath your whole slab is more supportive than drilled piers or pressed piles alone.

PRO #3: Mud-pumping the voids under your foundation also minimizes the risk of further movement and settling. When things are all snug and surrounded by other material, it’s less likely for them to wiggle and move around. It’s kinda like tucking your kid in at night. You burrito that little one in good with the hopes that they will stop moving and fall asleep, right?

Side Effect Bonus PRO #4: The step before mud-pumping is testing your under-slab plumbing to make sure there are no leaks. If leaks are found, they need to be fixed first. So if mud-pumping is used on your foundation repair, you will have the added comfort of knowing that there are no leaks or that they have been repaired. This is another way to make sure that further problems don’t come up later for your foundation or underneath it.

Like anything else, there are a few cons to mud-pumping as part of your foundation repair. Even though we are a fan of mud-pumping, it does have some risks and downsides that we want you to be aware of.

CON #1: Mud-pumping costs more. This is an additional step that takes added time and more materials, SO there will be extra cost to you. Mud-pumping adds between $2,000 and $4,000 to the price of your average-sized foundation repair.

CON #2 (minor): There is a small risk of over-pumping the mud and adding too much material under the home. This can cause a hump in your floor. But with an experienced team working on your foundation repair project, this has a low chance of happening. Just want you to know this is a potential problem that could happen with an inexperienced or less careful contractor.

CON #3: Just like that kid that you tucked into bed with a burrito blanket, there’s no guarantee that no more movement will take place. Mud-pumping is a safeguard, an insurance policy, a risk minimizer, but it’s not an absolute settlement solution with no potential for failure.

Like many forms of insurance or safeguards, you don’t really know if you’re going to need it or not. You might only know the value of mud-pumping afterward in hindsight since we can’t predict what will happen later with your home.

As mentioned, mud-pumping is a final step in a foundation repair project, but it has a few steps of its own to complete the process. Here’s a breakdown of how it works:Raise the foundation and secure it in place with shims

The mud-pumping process takes about half a day or small projects and several delays for larger jobs at the end of a foundation repair project. So it doesn’t add a lot of time to the job but it can add some peace of mind.

What’s the worst-case scenario if you don’t do mud-pumping? Well, you could spend thousands of dollars on a foundation repair only to have it settle all over again due to missing that final step and leaving voids under your foundation.

On the flip side, your home can still settle no matter what you do (or it might not, there’s no way to know for sure) but the risk is minimized as much as humanly possible if you add mud-pumping to the repair. This seems like a tricky decision, so let’s try and make it a little easier with some “if-then” statements.If you love your home and plan to be in it for the long haul and want the very best, get the mud-pumping.

If you are selling your home and won’t be living in it any longer, then you’re not worried about the longevity of the repair and could skip the mud-pumping.

Here’s one more “if-then” statement for you: if you want to use Anchor Foundation Repair for your slab-on-grade foundation repair project, then mud-pumping is part of the deal. We don’t leave repair projects without the last step because we also have a lifetime warranty and service agreement.

At Anchor Foundation Repair, we have seen firsthand the consequences of not filling voids after repairs in our 35 years in business. We have inspected and repaired dozens of homes that had previous foundation repairs (by other companies) without mud-pumping. We have felt the hollow-sounding floors and seen homeowners having to go through the repair process again to get it right the second time.

To get it right the first time, Anchor employs more than one “risk-minimizing” tactic to provide the longest-lasting foundation repair possible. Check out our article highlighting4 service features that set us apartfrom other foundation repair contractors.

Soil erosion is the most common problem for concrete foundations and is the main reason loses its level. Soil erosion occurs for a number of different reasons.

Broken pipes or drainage issues cause the rapid erosion of soil, too. If there is a leak in your plumbing or a problem with your home’s water diversion system, this water might cause erosion around your foundation.

A house that is slightly off level is not always a problem. But serious erosion under the foundation causes large cracks and leads to major structural failures in time.

Anytime we pour a concrete foundation, we want it to sit level forever. If the concrete slab ever loses its level seating, it can be fixed with slab jacking.

Next, stable materials are pumped into the holes. When this material consists of natural materials, it creates a muddy slurry and is known as mud jacking. Polyurethane foam is a popular alternative to mud.

The benefit of polyurethane foam in slab jacking is that the slab is not raised by the pressure from the pump. Instead, the polyurethane foam expands and slowly raises the foundation.

While special equipment is needed, like foam slab jacking pumps, this arrives at your house on a normal truck. The pump hose is extra-long, too, and reaches around your property without issue.

When pouring a new foundation, the old foundation first gets broken up and hauled away. Since this doesn’t happen, there is very little to clean up except for some concrete dust and residual foam.

And in truth, replacing a concrete slab foundation does not fix the problems in the soil which caused the foundation to lose level to begin with. Slab jacking remediates the erosion and re-levels the slab.

Slab jacking is not right for fixing your home’s entire foundation. While polyurethane foam is a high-density material and is very strong, it is not supposed to support the weight of an entire house.

The cost of a new concrete foundation is sometimes double the cost of slab jacking. It is much more cost-effective to repair and re-level your patio than to pour a new one.

If your concrete foundation is uneven because of soil erosion, there is a good chance that you will find other problems as well. Repair these problems when you find them.

For example, changes in the soil underneath and around your foundation cause the concrete to crack. These cracks ruin your foundation’s waterproofing and allow water to leak in.

Problems with plumbing or water diversion will only continue to damage your foundation. Make sure you check that your plumbing is not leaking. Check that your downspouts drain water away from your home and do not empty near your foundation.

None of this work is something you should take on by yourself. Do not DIY repairs to your foundation. The work is dangerous and the risks to your property are severe.

If you suspect that your foundation is losing its level or that you need a section of concrete slab repaired, our team is ready to help. Give us a call today to speak to an expert about slab jacking and other foundation repairs.

As usual, winter — or the slow season — is the time most drillers take the time to maintain their equipment in order to get ready for the peak season. One of the main parts that usually needs attention is the mud pump. Sometimes, it is just a set of swabs to bring it up to snuff, but often, tearing it down and inspecting the parts may reveal that other things need attention. For instance, liners. I can usually run three sets of swabs before it is time to change the liner. New liners and swabs last a good long time. The second set of swabs lasts less, and by the time you put in your third set of swabs, it’s time to order new liners. Probably rods too. It’s not always necessary to change pistons when you change swabs. Sometimes just the rubber needs to be changed, saving money. How do you tell? There is a small groove around the outside of the piston. As it wears, the groove will disappear and it’s time for a new piston.

The wear groove on a piston can be a good indicator of the general health of your pump. If the wear is pretty even all around, chances are the pump is in pretty good shape. But if you see wear on one side only, that is a clue to dig deeper. Uneven wear is a sign that the rods are not stroking at the exact angle that they were designed to, which is parallel to the liner. So, it’s time to look at the gear end. Or as some folks call it, “the expensive end.”

The wear groove on a piston can be a good indicator of the general health of your pump. If the wear is pretty even all around, chances are the pump is in pretty good shape. But if you see wear on one side only, that is a clue to dig deeper.

After you get the cover off the gear end, the first thing to look at will be the oil. It needs to be fairly clean, with no drill mud in it. Also look for metal. Some brass is to be expected, but if you put a magnet in the oil and come back later and it has more than a little metal on it, it gets more serious. The brass in the big end of the connecting rod is a wearable part. It is made to be replaced at intervals — usually years. The most common source of metal is from the bull and pinion gears. They transmit the power to the mud. If you look at the pinion gear closely, you will find that it wears faster than the bull gear. This is for two reasons. First, it is at the top of the pump and may not receive adequate lubrication. The second reason is wear. All the teeth on both the bull and pinion gears receive the same amount of wear, but the bull gear has many more teeth to spread the wear. That is why, with a well maintained pump, the bull gear will outlast the pinion gear three, four or even five times. Pinion gears aren’t too expensive and are fairly easy to change.

This process is fairly straightforward machine work, but over the years, I have discovered a trick that will bring a rebuild up to “better than new.” When you tear a pump down, did you ever notice that there is about 1-inch of liner on each end that has no wear? This is because the swab never gets to it. If it has wear closer to one end than the other, your rods are out of adjustment. The trick is to offset grind the journals. I usually offset mine about ¼-inch. This gives me a ½-inch increase in the stroke without weakening the gear end. This turns a 5x6 pump into a 5½x6 pump. More fluid equals better holes. I adjust the rods to the right length to keep from running out the end of the liner, and enjoy the benefits.

Other than age, the problem I have seen with journal wear is improper lubrication. Smaller pumps rely on splash lubrication. This means that as the crank strokes, the rods pick up oil and it lubricates the crank journals. If your gear end is full of drill mud due to bad packing, it’s going to eat your pump. If the oil is clean, but still shows crank wear, you need to look at the oil you are using.

Oil that is too thick will not be very well picked up and won’t find its way into the oil holes in the brass to lubricate the journals. I’ve seen drillers that, when their pump starts knocking, they switch to a heavier weight oil. This actually makes the problem worse. In my experience, factory specified gear end oil is designed for warmer climates. As you move north, it needs to be lighter to do its job. Several drillers I know in the Northern Tier and Canada run 30 weight in their pumps. In Georgia, I run 40W90. Seems to work well.

If you run a mud rig, you have probably figured out that the mud pump is the heart of the rig. Without it, drilling stops. Keeping your pump in good shape is key to productivity. There are some tricks I have learned over the years to keeping a pump running well.

First, you need a baseline to know how well your pump is doing. When it’s freshly rebuilt, it will be at the top efficiency. An easy way to establish this efficiency is to pump through an orifice at a known rate with a known fluid. When I rig up, I hook my water truck to my pump and pump through my mixing hopper at idle. My hopper has a ½-inch nozzle in it, so at idle I see about 80 psi on the pump when it’s fresh. Since I’m pumping clear water at a known rate, I do this on every job.

As time goes on and I drill more hole, and the pump wears, I start seeing a decrease in my initial pressure — 75, then 70, then 65, etc. This tells me I better order parts. Funny thing is, I don’t usually notice it when drilling. After all, I am running it a lot faster, and it’s hard to tell the difference in a few gallons a minute until it really goes south. This method has saved me quite a bit on parts over the years. When the swabs wear they start to leak. This bypass pushes mud around the swab, against the liners, greatly accelerating wear. By changing the swab at the first sign of bypass, I am able to get at least three sets of swabs before I have to change liners. This saves money.

Before I figured this out, I would sometimes have to run swabs to complete failure. (I was just a hand then, so it wasn’t my rig.) When I tore the pump down to put in swabs, lo-and-behold, the liners were cut so badly that they had to be changed too. That is false economy. Clean mud helps too. A desander will pay for itself in pump parts quicker than you think, and make a better hole to boot. Pump rods and packing last longer if they are washed and lubricated. In the oilfield, we use a petroleum-based lube, but that it not a good idea in the water well business. I generally use water and dish soap. Sometimes it tends to foam too much, so I add a few tablets of an over the counter, anti-gas product, like Di-Gel or Gas-Ex, to cut the foaming.

Maintenance on the gear end of your pump is important, too. Maintenance is WAY cheaper than repair. The first, and most important, thing is clean oil. On a duplex pump, there is a packing gland called an oil-stop on the gear end of the rod. This is often overlooked because the pump pumps just as well with a bad oil-stop. But as soon as the fluid end packing starts leaking, it pumps mud and abrasive sand into the gear end. This is a recipe for disaster. Eventually, all gear ends start knocking. The driller should notice this, and start planning. A lot of times, a driller will change the oil and go to a higher viscosity oil, thinking this will help cushion the knock. Wrong. Most smaller duplex pumps are splash lubricated. Thicker oil does not splash as well, and actually starves the bearings of lubrication and accelerates wear. I use 85W90 in my pumps. A thicker 90W140 weight wears them out a lot quicker. You can improve the “climbing” ability of the oil with an additive, like Lucas, if you want. That seems to help.

Outside the pump, but still an important part of the system, is the pop-off, or pressure relief valve. When you plug the bit, or your brother-in-law closes the discharge valve on a running pump, something has to give. Without a good, tested pop-off, the part that fails will be hard to fix, expensive and probably hurt somebody. Pop-off valve are easily overlooked. If you pump cement through your rig pump, it should be a standard part of the cleanup procedure. Remove the shear pin and wash through the valve. In the old days, these valves were made to use a common nail as the shear pin, but now nails come in so many grades that they are no longer a reliable tool. Rated shear pins are available for this. In no case should you ever run an Allen wrench! They are hardened steel and will hurt somebody or destroy your pump.

One last thing that helps pump maintenance is a good pulsation dampener. It should be close to the pump discharge, properly sized and drained after every job. Bet you never thought of that one. If your pump discharge goes straight to the standpipe, when you finish the job your standpipe is still full of fluid. Eventually the pulsation dampener will water-log and become useless. This is hard on the gear end of the pump. Open a valve that drains it at the end of every job. It’ll make your pump run smoother and longer.

I am so glad I gave Mineral Hygienics a second chance. After purchasing a Starter Kit and trying it out for a few weeks I was ready to call it quits and try something else. I tried using the "Fair" Foundation (which was too light for me but darker than the "Fairest" that was also included in the Starter Kit). I tried everything but could not get the Foundation to blend. After an hour it started looking bad and within three hours it looked awful! Then I noticed that the "Fair" Foundation seemed to be extremely coarse in comparison to the "Fairest" which was very fine and powdery. So, I took a chance and ordered a "Fairly Light" Foundation (which turned out to be the perfect color for me) and all I can say is WOW!!!!!!!! This make-up is absolutely perfect for me. I have tried make-up of all prices ranges and this is the absolute first one that does not turn orange on me. I assume I got a "bad batch" the first

I suggest anyone who is tired of testing out every foundation on the market, to try this. I works well with any kind of facial lotions, under eye creams and facial serums your using. I also blend some of the sun kissed bronzer with the foundation during the summer months to add more color all over.

I have been a long-time fan of mineral powder foundations and makeup. I hate the way liquid foundation feels, so when this kind of makeup came on the scene, I was one happy Diva. I"ve tried some great products, and some not-so-great products, but was recently introduced to a new line that has instantly become my absolute FAVORITE new brand: Mineral Hygienics.

Mudjacking (also referred to as slabjacking, grout pumping, slab leveling, etc.) has been the common method used for lifting sinking concrete and is still widely used by contractors for concrete slab restoration. Mudjacking can be an effective solution, but in some cases may only be temporary. While mudjacking and polyurethane injection achieve similar results, the process and overall performance and lifespan of the two products are very different.

DryZone, LLC provide a superior concrete leveling alternative to mud jacking using the PolyLevel® system. PolyLevel provides a less invasive, longer lasting fill that will stabilize your concrete for years to come. If you"re interested in concrete lifting and leveling for your home, call us today at 1-855-554-5001 or click below to get a free quote in Lewes, Berlin, Easton and nearby.

Mudjacking uses a mixture of sand, water and cement which helps solidify the material. The mortar-based mixture, or "slurry," is pumped through large holes in the concrete using hydraulic pressure, which lifts the sunken slab.

While mudjacking is a common option for repair, there are several problems which make it a less desirable alternative. The mixture takes several days to cure before any weight can be placed on it. The mixture is very heavy, weighing an average of 100-150 lbs. per cubic foot and can add additional unwanted weight, potentially making the problem worse. While mudjacking is more affordable and less invasive than concrete replacement, the material can eventually erode and wash out, causing the slab to eventually settle again.

Rather than using a mixture of concrete and mud, polyurethane concrete raising utilizes environmentally-safe polymer foam that is injected through penny-size holes in the concrete. Through a chemical reaction the high-density foam expands to stabilize the loose soils and lift the sunken concrete. After approximately 15 minutes, the polyurethane material is fully cured and can be driven on or walked on.

The polyurethane weighs only about 2 lbs. per cubic foot, which doesn"t add any additional weight to the soil. Polyurethane foam is an inert, stable product that is made from 100% recycled materials. It is impervious to moisture and decay ensuring that your concrete repair will last. The expansive polymers allow lifting of heavier loads such as stoops and slab foundations.

At DryZone, LLC, we use the proven, engineered PolyLevel® System to stabilize and re-level foundation slabs and exterior concrete in Lewes, Berlin, Easton, Middletown, Newark, Rehoboth Beach, Wilmington, Bear, Dover, Salisbury and the surrounding areas. Call us today at 1-855-554-5001 or contact us online to get a free quote on our concrete lifting and leveling services.

A home’s foundation is one of the most important components of its functionality. A strong foundation distributes the weight of a house and all its contents, secures the property in place, prevents cracking, keeps groundwater out, and withstands environmental conditions.

Atlanta experiences a variety of conditions that lead to foundation problems. For example, the city experiences hot and humid summers with wet winters, which causes red clay soil to expand and contract, causing foundation settlement and cracking in your home’s walls. The local fauna and flora may also find their way into your home’s foundation in search of water, leading to leaks, mold, and mildew growth.

If you notice common signs of foundation problems, such as cracking or mold, then you want to find a foundation repair company as soon as possible. The This Old House Reviews Team has researched and developed this guide to help you in your search. This guide will help you accurately compare the average cost of each provider, as well as their services, warranties, and financing options.

Ram Jack is a nationwide foundation repair company with a branch in Marietta, Georgia, that services the entire Atlanta area. Founded in 1975, the company offers its long history of foundation repair to both residential and commercial customers. Ram Jack offers the most comprehensive selection of foundation repair services we found in Atlanta, and it provides excellent financing solutions with a lifetime transferable warranty.

Ram Jack offers a wide range of foundation repair services for all types of foundations. The company says the average cost for its pier services cost around $1,000 to $3,000. If you require pier services for a single corner it can cost between $3,500 to $5,000 due to piers being closer together.

Engineered Solutions of Georgia (ESG) has provided foundation repair and other specialty construction services to homes and businesses throughout Fulton County and Cobb County since 2006. Whether you are addressing current damage to your Atlanta home’s foundation or looking to build a new foundation from the ground up, ESG provides a wide range of services with flexible payment plans. We find the company to be an excellent choice for any new pier or concrete projects.

ESG offers a comprehensive selection of foundation repair methods and solutions. Similar to other foundation repair companies, the company customizes each job based on detailed evaluations. ESG states that the average customer pays $4,000 to $5,000 for their services, as long as the damage is not too severe. Check out some of the company’s service here:

Foundation Crack Repair: If you notice cracking anywhere on your home’s walls, ESG provides a free inspection to discover its cause, as well as a free estimate and recommendations for next steps. Solutions can range from pier installation to simple sand or cement injections.

Based in Norcross, Georgia, Foundation Worx was founded in 2012 to provide affordable and effective foundation repair services. The company provides a detailed walkthrough for all of its jobs. In addition, it offers online resources, such as its blog, to help customers educate themselves on their foundation issues.

Foundation Worx offers excellent warranties for its residential services, including a Life of the Structure warranty for its underpinning and tieback lines. It also provides a 30-year manufacturer’s warranty on all its other services, which is higher than the industry-standard of 25 years.

Foundation Worx provides industry-standard foundation and crawl space repair services. The company states that the average cost for most jobs is $3,000. Read over some of Foundation Worx’s popular services and their average cost below:

Helical Piers ($1,400–1,600): Foundation Worx provides custom helical pier services with an average of 21-foot depth. This service is most often used to combat foundation settlement.

Founded in 1933, Olshan has provided foundation repair services across the southeastern United States. Though it is large, Olshan’s branches focus on the root causes of foundation issues in their service areas, such as the red clay soil and wet weather pattern found in Atlanta. The company also provides one of the largest selection of service options with easy financing for both homeowners and business owners. Olshan’s large customer service network makes it ideal for commercial properties.

Olshan offers a wide variety of foundation repair services. It also offers custom payment plans for its service. Olshan states that its foundation services on average range between $3,000 and $7,500, but we calculated on the company’s website that a 10-foot basement wall repair worth for an Atlanta house with two doors would be $9,713.

Foundation Repair: Olshan provides free assessments to create custom repair plans. Olshan offers its exclusive Cable Lock™ ST Plus Hybrid Foundation Repair System for many foundation settlement jobs. This system uses steel piers that are then reinforced by a layer of concrete. This creates a deeper, stronger and more reliable repair.

Exterior Water Management: If you experience standing water outside your home, Olshan offers its Olshan Drainage System. This system can remove excess water, improve foundation performance, and prevent cracks.

PolyLift™: A popular solution to concrete cracking and settlement, this is a long-lasting, environmentally safe polyurethane mixture that is pumped beneath the structure that needs to be leveled.

AquaGuard Foundation Solutions is a local foundation repair that is backed by Groundworks. This relationship allows customers to work with skilled structural engineers and receive reliable foundation repair products. AquaGuard Foundation Solutions offers the most comprehensive crawl space services we found in Atlanta.

AquaGuard offers services for all types of foundations found throughout Atlanta and North Georgia. The company does not share much cost data online, but it does offer a price assurance guarantee that states if you receive a lower-priced proposal for the same scope of work and materials, then AquaGuard will beat that price by $100. The company also offers financing options through EnerBank USA.

Vapor Barrier: With its WallSeal™ vapor barrier, AquaGuard Foundation Solutions helps your home’s basement or crawl space combat mold growth, pest infestations, high utility bills, and structural damage.

Intellijack® Support System: This service has AquaGuard Foundation Solutions lift your crawl space and remedy uneven floors by installing these crawl space support jacks on pre-existing crawl space supports.

Acworth Tri-State Waterproofing has provided excellent waterproofing and foundation repair services for thousands of homeowners across Georgia, Tennessee, and the Carolinas for more than 20 years. As its name suggests, Acworth Tri-State Waterproofing offers some of the most comprehensive waterproofing options for both existing homes and new construction in Atlanta.

Acworth Tri-State Waterproofing offers industry-standard foundation repair services with a focus on crawl space encapsulation and waterproofing. The company does not share sample pricing online, but you can expect to pay somewhere between $3,500 to $6,000 for a decent-sized foundation and/or waterproofing job. Acworth offers a range of warranties on its services and products, and it also provides comprehensive financing options through Artis.

Water Management: Sometimes your gutters and landscaping cause damage to your foundation. Acworth can help combat leaks caused by these sources by installation of downspout extensions, driveway grates, and yard pumps.

Anglin’s Foundation & Masonry Repairs understands Atlanta’s foundation needs, focusing on the latest in foundation repair technology while maintaining reputable business practices it has upheld since 1930.

Anglin’s Foundation & Masonry Repairs offers impressive chimney services with inspections focused specifically on leaning or damaged chimneys. While the company offers comprehensive foundation repair and leveling services, it is lacking in terms of waterproofing services.

Anglin’s Foundation & Mason Repairs also has a price-matching protection guarantee—if another contractor offers to complete the same job for a lower price, Anglin will complete the job for 10 percent less.

Concrete Slab Repairs: The company offers custom service plans based on its injections for concrete slab repairs. Some solutions may include mudjacking or pier support.

Foundation repair can be a confusing and complicated process. There are many terms that you will come across that you are not familiar with from day-to-day home maintenance. Below is a list of common terms you may encounter:

Downspout Extensions: This refers to when a company installs extensions on your gutters’ downspouts to allow water to travel farther away from your foundation.

Epoxy and Urethane Injection:Polyurethane is used to fill voids underneath. This is an eco-friendly approach to slabjacking and lifts settling foundations.

Gutter Guard: This product helps keep debris, such as leaves and pine needles, out of your gutters in order to avoid clogs causing leaks into your home or your foundation.

Interior Drains: This term can refer to a wide variety of drains that are installed inside your home, but it typically refers to floor drains that contain a channel-shaped body. They often connect to a utility line. One example would be footing drains, which connect to your home’s perimeter to drain water away from the foundation’s footing.

Mudjacking: This is a service that raises concrete by pumping mud or other material under it through drilled holes. It is also often called slabjacking.

Piers: Piers are large beams that are installed vertically beneath a home’s foundation. They are most often used when a foundation experiences settlement. They are raised by using a hydraulic machine in order to position a foundation at its proper level. Some types of piers you will come across include push piers, which are used for smaller homes with concrete slab foundations, and helical piers, which are used for large homes or projects and feature a screw-like design.

Slab Foundation: This is a type of foundation that consists of 4”–6” thick concrete that the home rests on, and it does not include a crawl space or basement. The concrete slab is often placed on a layer of sand for drainage and to act as a cushion.

Sump Pump: This refers to a device installed in a home’s crawl space or basement to collect water. They work to redirect the standing water from leaks to an exterior drainage system.

Vapor Barrier: This refers to products used to create a barrier of sealant between your basement or crawl space and the home’s exterior in order to control the amount of moisture entering the foundation.

Yard Pumps: This device helps pump standing water to a more ideal location. They help route rain water to a low point in your yard and it can help water flow away from the home’s foundation.

There are plenty of options for reputable foundation repair services in Atlanta. We recommend Ram Jack as ‘Best Overall in Atlanta’ due to its comprehensive service options and excellent payment plans. If you’re looking to have a professional handle a new construction project—whether it’s a foundation or a new porch—we suggest you look into Engineered Solutions of Georgia.

This Old House aims to provide objective, well-researched reviews of foundation repair companies through a transparent and detailed methodology. We rate each foundation repair company on a 100-point scale in order to back up our findings and recommendations. Learn more about our rating methodology below:

Foundation Repair Services (20 Points): Does the company provide comprehensive foundation repair services from the following options: pier installation, soil nails, leaning chimney repairs, mudjacking, retaining/stabilizing walls, cracked brick or block repairs, new construction piers services, timber pile support, wall anchors, or carbon fiber reinforcement?

Basement Waterproofing Services (12 Points): Does the company offer comprehensive basement waterproofing services, such as drainage system installation, sump pumps, basement dehumidifiers, vapor barriers (wall coverings), window wells, or emergency waterproofing services?

Concrete Services (8 Points): Does the company provide industry-standard concrete services for both slab foundation and concrete structures, such as new construction concrete services, sinking concrete slabs repairs, concrete leveling, or concrete caulking for cracks?

The overall cost of foundation repair depends on a variety of factors, such as the amount of foundation damage to repair, services and material required for the repair, how long an evaluation takes, and the resale value of the home. You should expect your foundation repair in Atlanta to cost around $3,500 to $6,000, though it may be more or less depending on the factors above.

Atlanta’s red clay soil causes unstable foundation when paired with the city’s wet weather patterns. As the soil soaks and dries it may pull away from your foundation causing shifting to occur.

If you notice cracks in drywall, brick, or concrete, then there may be an issue with the foundation below. Other indicators include uneven floors, doors or windows pulling away from their frames, and the development of mold and mildew.

Most often you can still live in your house as it undergoes foundation repairs. The greatest disturbance you may run into are noises caused by machinery used to lift piers.

There are many different ways to drill a domestic water well. One is what we call the “mud rotary” method. Whether or not this is the desired and/or best method for drilling your well is something more fully explained in this brief summary.

One advantage of drilling with compressed air is that it can tell you when you have encountered groundwater and gives you an indication how much water the borehole is producing. When drilling with water using the mud rotary method, the driller must rely on his interpretation of the borehole cuttings and any changes he can observe in the recirculating fluid. Mud rotary drillers can also use borehole geophysical tools to interpret which zones might be productive enough for your water well.

The mud rotary well drilling method is considered a closed-loop system. That is, the mud is cleaned of its cuttings and then is recirculated back down the borehole. Referring to this drilling method as “mud” is a misnomer, but it is one that has stuck with the industry for many years and most people understand what the term actually means.

The water is carefully mixed with a product that should not be called mud because it is a highly refined and formulated clay product—bentonite. It is added, mixed, and carefully monitored throughout the well drilling process.

The purpose of using a bentonite additive to the water is to form a thin film on the walls of the borehole to seal it and prevent water losses while drilling. This film also helps support the borehole wall from sluffing or caving in because of the hydraulic pressure of the bentonite mixture pressing against it. The objective of the fluid mixture is to carry cuttings from the bottom of the borehole up to the surface, where they drop out or are filtered out of the fluid, so it can be pumped back down the borehole again.

When using the mud rotary method, the driller must have a sump, a tank, or a small pond to hold a few thousand gallons of recirculating fluid. If they can’t dig sumps or small ponds, they must have a mud processing piece of equipment that mechanically screens and removes the sands and gravels from the mixture. This device is called a “shale shaker.”

The driller does not want to pump fine sand through the pump and back down the borehole. To avoid that, the shale shaker uses vibrating screens of various sizes and desanding cones to drop the sand out of the fluid as it flows through the shaker—so that the fluid can be used again.

Some drillers use compressed air to blow off the well, starting at the first screened interval and slowly working their way to the bottom—blowing off all the water standing above the drill pipe and allowing it to recover, and repeating this until the water blown from the well is free of sand and relatively clean. If after repeated cycles of airlift pumping and recovery the driller cannot find any sand in the water, it is time to install a well development pump.

Additional development of the well can be done with a development pump that may be of a higher capacity than what the final installation pump will be. Just as with cycles of airlift pumping of the well, the development pump will be cycled at different flow rates until the maximum capacity of the well can be determined. If the development pump can be operated briefly at a flow rate 50% greater than the permanent pump, the well should not pump sand.

Mud rotary well drillers for decades have found ways to make this particular system work to drill and construct domestic water wells. In some areas, it’s the ideal method to use because of the geologic formations there, while other areas of the country favor air rotary methods.

To learn more about the difference between mud rotary drilling and air rotary drilling, click the video below. The video is part of our “NGWA: Industry Connected” YouTube series:

Gary Hix is a Registered Professional Geologist in Arizona, specializing in hydrogeology. He was the 2019 William A. McEllhiney Distinguished Lecturer for The Groundwater Foundation. He is a former licensed water well drilling contractor and remains actively involved in the National Ground Water Association and Arizona Water Well Association.

A foundation transfers the load of a structure to the earth and resists loads imposed by the earth. A foundation in residential construction may consist of a footing, wall, slab, pier, pile, or a combination of these elements. In this inspection training article, we"ll discuss the following foundation types:crawlspace;

The most common residential foundation materials are concrete masonry (i.e., concrete block) and cast-in-place concrete. Preservative-treated wood, precast concrete, and other methods may also be used. The concrete slab on grade is the most popular foundation type in the Southeast; basements are the most common type in the East and Midwest. Crawlspaces are common in the Northwest and Southeast. Pile foundations are commonly used in coastal flood zones to elevate structures above flood levels, in weak or expansive soils to reach a stable stratum, and on steeply sloped sites.

A crawlspace is a building foundation that uses a perimeter foundation wall to create an under-floor space that is not habitable; the interior crawlspace elevation may or may not be below the exterior finish grade. A basement is typically defined as a portion of a building that is partly or completely below the exterior grade and that may be used as habitable or storage space.

When necessary, piles are used to transmit the load to a deeper soil stratum with a higher bearing capacity to prevent failure due to undercutting of the foundation by scour from floodwater flow at high velocities, and to elevate the building above required flood elevations. Piles are also used to isolate the structure from expansive soil movements.

Post-and-pier foundations can provide an economical alternative to crawlspace perimeter wall construction. It is common practice to use a brick curtain wall between piers for appearance and bracing purposes.

Concrete design procedures generally follow the strength design method contained in ACI (American Concrete Institute)-318 (ACI, 1999), although certain aspects of the procedures may be considered conservative relative to conventional residential foundation applications. For this reason, some supplemental design guidance is provided when practical and technically justified. Masonry design procedures follow the allowable stress design method of ACI-530 (ACI, 1999). Wood design procedures are used to design the connections between the foundation system and the structure above and follow the allowable stress design method for wood construction. In addition, the designer is referred to the applicable design standards for symbol definitions and additional guidance, since the intent of this article is to provide supplemental instruction in the efficient design of residential foundations.

A residential designer using concrete and masonry materials must have a basic understanding of such materials, as well as an appreciation of variations in the materials’ composition and structural properties. In addition, soils are considered a foundation material. A brief discussion of the properties of concrete and masonry follows.

Portland cement is classified into several types in accordance with ASTM C150 (ASTM, 1998). Residential foundation walls are typically constructed with Type I cement, which is a general-purpose Portland cement used for the vast majority of construction projects. Other types of cement are appropriate in accommodating conditions related to heat of hydration in massive pours and sulfate resistance. In some regions, sulfates in soils have caused durability problems with concrete. The designer should check into local conditions and practices.

The weight of concrete varies depending on the type of aggregates used in the concrete mix. Concrete is typically referred to as lightweight or normal-weight. The density of unreinforced normal weight concrete ranges between 144 and 156 pounds per cubic foot (pcf) and is typically assumed to be 150 pcf. Residential foundations are constructed with normal-weight concrete.

Slump is the measure of concrete consistency; the higher the slump, the wetter the concrete and the easier it flows. Slump is measured in accordance with ASTM C143 (ASTM, 1998) by inverting a standard 12-inch-high metal cone, filling it with concrete, and then removing the cone; the amount the concrete settles in units of inches is the slump. Most foundations, slabs, and walls consolidated by hand methods have a slump between 4 and 6 inches. One problem associated with a high-slump concrete is segregation of the aggregate, which leads to cracking and scaling. Therefore, a slump of greater than 6 should be avoided.

Concrete masonry units (CMU) are commonly referred to as concrete blocks. They are composed of Portland cement, aggregate and water. Admixtures may also be added in some situations. Low-slump concrete is molded and cured to produce strong blocks or units. Residential foundation walls are typically constructed with units 7-5/8 inches high by 15-5/8 inches long, providing a 3/8-inch allowance for the width of mortar joints.

Concrete masonry units are described by grades according to their intended use per ASTM C90 (ASTM, 1999) or C129 (ASTM, 1999). Residential foundation walls should be constructed with Grade N units. Grade S may be used above grade. The grades are described below.Grade N is typically required for general use, such as in interior and backup walls, and in above- or below-grade exterior walls that may or may not be exposed to moisture penetration or the weather.

Concrete masonry units are classified in accordance with ASTM C90 as Type I or II (ASTM, 1999). Type I is a moisture-controlled unit that is typically specified where drying shrinkage of the block due to moisture loss may result in excessive cracking in the walls. Type II is a non-moisture-controlled unit that is suitable for all other uses. Residential foundation walls are typically constructed with Type II units.

Residential foundation walls are typically constructed with low- to medium-weight units because of the low compressive strength required. However, lower-density units are generally more porous and must be properly protected to resist moisture intrusion. A common practice in residential basement foundation wall construction is to provide a cement-based parge coating and a brush- or spray-applied bituminous coating on the below-ground portions of the wall. This treatment is usually required by code for basement walls of masonry or concrete construction; however, in concrete construction, the parge coating is not necessary.

Masonry mortar is used to join concrete masonry units into a structural wall; it also retards air and moisture infiltration. The most common way to lay block is in a running bond pattern where the vertical head joints between blocks are offset by half the block"s length from one course to the next. Mortar is composed of cement, lime, clean, well-graded sand, and water, and is typically classified into Types M, S, N, O, and K in accordance with ASTM C270 (ASTM, 1999). Residential foundation walls are typically constructed with Type M or Type S mortar, both of which are generally recommended for load-bearing interior and exterior walls, including above- and below-grade applications.

Soil bearing investigations are rarely required for residential construction except in the case of known risks, as evidenced by a history of local problems (e.g., organic deposits, landfills, expansive soils, etc.). Soil-bearing tests on stronger-than-average soils can, however, justify smaller footings or eliminate footings entirely if the foundation wall provides sufficient bearing surface. For a conservative relationship between soil type and load-bearing value, refer to Table 4.2. A similar table is typically published in the building codes.

When a soil-bearing investigation is desired to determine more accurate and economical footing requirements, the designer commonly turns to ASTM D1586, Standard Penetration Test (SPT) and Split-Barrel Sampling of Soils (ASTM, 1999). This test relies on a 2-inch-diameter device driven into the ground with a 140-pound hammer dropped from a distance of 30 inches. The number of hammer drops or blows needed to create a 1-foot penetration (or blow count) is recorded. Values can be roughly correlated to soil-bearing values as shown in Table 4.3. The instrumentation and cost of conducting the SPT test is usually not warranted for typical residential applications. Nonetheless, the SPT test method provides information on deeper soil strata and thus can offer valuable guidance for foundation design and building location, particularly when subsurface conditions are suspected to be problematic. The values in Table 4.3 are associated with the blow count from the SPT test method. Many engineers can provide reasonable estimates of soil-bearing by using smaller penetrometers at less cost, although such devices and methods may require an independent calibration to determine presumptive soil-bearing values and may not be able to detect deep subsurface problems. Calibrations may be provided by the manufacturer or, alternatively, developed by the engineer.

to provide adequate strength, in addition to the foundation wall, to prevent differential settlement of the building in weak or uncertain soil conditions;

to place the building foundation at a sufficient depth to avoid frost heave or thaw weakening in frost-susceptible soils and to avoid organic surface soil layers; and

to provide adequate anchorage or mass (when needed in addition to the foundation wall) to resist potential uplift and overturning forces resulting from high winds or severe seismic events.

By far, the most common footing in residential construction is a continuous concrete spread footing. However, concrete and gravel footings are both recognized in prescriptive footing size tables in residential building codes for most typical conditions (ICC, 1998). In contrast, special conditions give rise to some engineering concerns that need to be addressed to ensure the adequacy of any foundation design.

Building codes for residential construction contain tables that prescribe minimum footing widths for plain concrete footings (ICC, 1998). Alternatively, footing widths may be determined in accordance with Section 4.3 based on a site’s particular loading condition and presumptive soil-bearing capacity. The following are general rules of thumb for determining the thickness of plain concrete footings for residential structures, once the required bearing width is calculated:The minimum footing thickness should not be less than the distance the footing extends outward from the edge of the foundation wall, or 6 inches, whichever is greater.

Much like a concrete footing, a gravel footing may be used to distribute foundation loads to a sufficient soil-bearing surface area. It also provides a continuous path for water or moisture and thus must be drained in accordance with the foundation drainage provisions of the national building codes. Gravel footings are constructed of crushed stone or gravel that is consolidated by tamping or vibrating. Pea gravel, which is naturally consolidated, does not require compaction and can be screeded to a smooth, level surface much like concrete. Although typically associated with pressure-treated wood foundations, a gravel footing can support cast-in-place or precast concrete foundation walls.

The size of a gravel footing is usually based on a 30- to 45-degree angle of repose for distributing loads; therefore, as with plain concrete footings, the required depth and width of the gravel footing depends on the width of the foundation wall, the foundation load, and soil-bearing values. Following a rule of thumb similar to that for a concrete footing, the gravel footing thickness should be no less than 1.5 times its extension beyond the edge of the foundation wall, or, in the case of a pressure-treated wood foundation, the mud sill. Just as with a concrete footing, the thickness of a gravel footing may be considered in meeting the required frost depth. In soils that are not naturally well-drained, provision should be made to adequately drain a gravel footing.

Designers often specify one or two longitudinal No. 4 bars for wall footings as nominal reinforcement in the case of questionable soils, or when required to maintain continuity of stepped footings on sloped sites, or under conditions resulting in a changed footing depth. However, for most residential foundations, the primary resistance against differential settlement is provided by the deep beam action of the foundation wall; footing reinforcement may provide limited benefit. In such cases, the footing simply acts as a platform for the wall construction and distributes loads to a larger soil-bearing area.

In some cases, masonry or concrete foundation walls incorporate a nominal amount of steel reinforcement to control cracking. Engineering specifications generally require reinforcement of concrete or masonry foundation walls because of somewhat arbitrary limits on minimum steel-to-concrete ratios, even for “plain” concrete walls. However, residential foundation walls are generally constructed of unreinforced or nominally reinforced concrete or masonry or of preservative-treated wood. The nominal reinforcement approach has provided many serviceable structures. This section discusses the issue of reinforcement and presents rational design approach for residential concrete and masonry foundation walls.

Regardless of the type of concrete foundation wall selected, the designer needs to determine the nominal and factored loads that, in turn, govern the type of wall (reinforced or unreinforced) that may be appropriate for a given application. The following LRFD load combinations are suggested for the design of residential concrete foundation walls:1.2 D + 1.6 H

In light-frame homes, the first load combination typically governs foundation wall design. Axial load increases moment capacity of concrete walls when they are not appreciably eccentric, as is the case in typical residential construction.

To simplify the calculations further, the designer may conservatively assume that the foundation wall acts as a simple span beam with pinned ends, although such an assumption will tend to over-predict the stresses in the wall. In any event, the simple span model requires the wall to be adequately supported at its top by the connection to the floor framing, and at its base by the connection to the footing or bearing against a basement floor slab. Appendix A contains basic load diagrams and beam equations to assist the designer in analyzing typical loading conditions and element-based structural actions encountered in residential design. Once the loads are known, the designer can perform design checks for various stresses by following ACI-318 and the recommendations contained herein.

As a practical consideration, residential designers need to keep in mind that concrete foundation walls are typically 6, 8 or 10 inches thick (nominal). The typical concrete compressive strength used in residential construction is 2,500 or 3,000 psi, although other strengths are available. Typical reinforcement tensile yield strength is 60,000 psi (Grade 60) and is primarily a matter of market supply.

ACI-318 allows the design of plain concrete walls with some limits, as discussed in ACI-318•220. ACI-318 recommends the incorporation of contraction and isolation joints to control cracking; however, this is not a typical practice for residential foundation walls, and temperature and shrinkage cracking is practically unavoidable. It is considered to have a negligible impact on the structural integrity of a residential wall. However, cracking may be controlled (minimize potential crack widening) by reasonable use of horizontal reinforcement.

ACI-318 limits plain concrete wall thickness to a minimum of 7-1/2 inches; however, the International One- Two-Family Dwelling Code (ICC, 1998) permits nominal 6-inch-thick foundation walls when the height of unbalanced fill is less than a prescribed maximum. The 7-1/2-inch-minimum thickness requirement is obviously impractical for a short concrete stem wall, as in a crawlspace foundation.

Adequate strength needs to be provided and should be demonstrated by analysis in accordance with the ACI-318 design equations and the recommendations in this section. Depending on soil loads, analysis should confirm conventional residential foundation wall practice in typical conditions.

Perpendicular shear is rarely a controlling factor in the design of residential concrete foundation walls. Parallel shear is also usually not a controlling factor in residential foundation walls.

The following equations apply to both perpendicular and parallel shear in conjunction with Figure 4.3 for plain concrete walls. For parallel shear, the equations do not address overturning and bending action that occurs in a direction parallel to the wall, particularly for short segments of walls under significant parallel shear load. For concrete foundation walls, this is generally not a concern.

Even though a plain concrete wall often calculates as adequate, the designer may elect to add a nominal amount of reinforcement for crack control or other reasons. Walls determined inadequate to withstand combined axial load and bending moment may gain greater capacity through increased wall thickness or increased concrete compressive strength. Alternatively, the wall may be reinforced. Walls determined to have adequate strength to withstand shear and combined axial load and bending moment may also be checked for deflection, but this is usually not a limiting factor for typical residential foundation walls.

Perpendicular shear is rarely a controlling factor in the design of typical residential foundation concrete walls. The level of parallel shear is also usually not a controlling factor in residential foundation walls.

If greater shear capacity is required, it may be obtained by increasing the wall thickness, increasing the concrete compressive strength, adding horizontal shear reinforcement, or installing vertical reinforcement to resist shear through shear friction. Shear friction is the transfer of shear through friction between two faces of a crack. Shear friction also relies on resistance from protruding portions of concrete on either side of the crack and by dowel action of the reinforcement that crosses the crack. The maximum limit on reinforcement spacing of 12 or 24 inches specified in ACI-318•11.5.4 is considered to be an arbitrary limit. When reinforcement is required, 48 inches as an adequate maximum spacing for residential foundation wall design agrees with practical experience.

The following equations provide checks for both perpendicular and parallel shear in conjunction with Figure 4.4. For parallel shear, the equations do not address overturning and bending action that occurs in a direction parallel to the wall, particularly for short segments of walls under significant parallel shear load. For concrete foundation walls, this is generally not a concern.

ACI-318 prescribes reinforcement requirements for concrete walls. Foundation walls commonly resist both an applied axial load from the structure above and an applied lateral soil load from backfill. To ensure that the wall’s strength is sufficient, the designer must first determine slenderness effects (Euler buckling) in the wall. ACI-318•10.10 provides an approximation method to account for slenderness effects in the wall; however, the slenderness ratio must not be greater than 100. The slenderness ratio is defined in the following section as the ratio between unsupported length and the radius of gyration. In residential construction, the approximation method, more commonly known as the moment magnifier method, is usually adequate because slenderness ratios are typically less than 100 in foundation walls.

The moment magnifier method is based on the wall’s classification as a “sway frame” or