plasterers quick fill mud pump pricelist

What a workhorse this tool is. Built to perform in the toughest environment, our pump smoothly and quickly fills your tools. With a 20 degree angle, the handle acts as a lever and keeps the operator from having to reach as far as other models on the market.FEATURES:

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It features a specially shaped flat nozzle end that fits the mouths of Flat Boxes for fast filling – and the best part? It rinses clean in just seconds.

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Introducing the industry’s first cordless powered loading pump for drywall mud. Designed to fill all automatic taping and finishing tools. PowerFill totally eliminates the need to manually pump. Now you can quickly fill with just the push of a button.

Never Hand Pump Again. Single-button pumping eliminates fatigue and injury associated with manual pumping. Pumps up to 3.5 gpm for lightning-fast filling and up to 55 gallons on a single battery charge for all-day filling. Programmable to refill tools automatically with Precision Fill.

If you are a plaster professional and are contracting to produce large plaster jobs – then chances are you are familiar with plaster pumps. If you are a plastering professional that is specialized in smaller jobs – you may not have a need for a plaster pump. How do you know when it makes sense to purchase a plaster pump? How do you know which sprayer or mixer is best for you? This article is here to help you make the right decision on your plaster pump purchase.

There are hundreds of manufactured machines to choose from and the most important items to consider are the size of your jobs, pump type, mud type, machine durability, equipment safety, and how easy it is to service.

Considering the size of your jobs. This is the fastest way to filter out plaster pumps and plaster mixers that do not meet you needs. If you are only doing small occasional drywall or stucco repairs then you can get away with a small and relatively inexpensive machine. If you are running a crew of twenty employees and your jobs are the size of multi unit apartment complexes – you will need a much larger and higher performance mixer and plaster pump. Look for the tank size and gallons per minute output. The higher performance plaster pumps and mixers are going to be larger tanks and higher gallons per minute output.

Applying plaster is done by professional plasterers1 and is not a job that can be undertaken DIY. A plasterer begins by taping all the joints in the drywall2, then giving them a skim coat of plaster to create a flush surface. Plaster dries quickly, so a plasterer works quickly to trowel the plaster onto the walls in smooth, even strokes. A wall will cure within one hour. So, during this time, the plaster will be applied, cut into the edges, and smoothed out to a flat, even finish with no blemishes. While most plasterers charge by the square foot, at a rate of between $2 and $10 per sq. ft., the plasterer cost per hour is about $45 to $90. Adding special designs, textures, or finishes may run you $1 to $3 more per square foot. High walls or ceilings add square footage. You can expect to pay an additional amount for plaster installation. For instance, a 10 x 10 room with regular 8-foot ceilings may cost you $500, but if that same room has 12-foot ceilings, it could add $800. Outdoor applications are more expensive due to the type of plaster needed. Exterior plaster costs $7 to $13 for a square foot.

An expert plasterer starts with a base coat, which is about 2 mm in thickness. The focus here is to achieve a smooth, even surface. A clean trowel will be used to complete the first coat. Moving into the second coat, the goal is to add about half of the thickness of the first coat while eliminating as many holes as possible. At this point, the professional plasterer allows the plaster to dry for a bit. While the plaster is still tacky, the surface will be evened out, and any ridges, bulges, or holes filled and smoothed. Using firm pressure on the trowel creates the right surface for finishing.

Plastering a ceiling may be challenging. A professional will have the right tools and experience to do it! Using a trowel, the plaster is applied away from the edges in a firm, even movement. It is important to work quickly in a small area at a time. During application, it is important that the plaster not spill over the edge of the trowel. The plaster is spread to the edges, carefully avoiding build up. Next, the trowel is used to smooth out and even the surface before the second coat is applied. As the plaster is hardening, water is added, and the final troweling is done. The plaster ceiling price is around $300 to $800, depending on the ceiling height and any special textures or finishes added.

Professional plasterers may choose to use a pump or spray to apply the product. However, many use hand tools. This type of application is more expensive. The cost also depends on what type of plaster is utilized. The average cost to plaster a room, including labor and materials, should be calculated at a rate of $5 to $10 per square foot. The cost to plaster a house will vary, of course, by the size of the home. The cost of plastering a house that is 2,000 square feet would be about $10,000 to $20,000.

Before you can start plastering, the surface where the plaster will be applied needs to be prepped. Prep work incurs an additional amount. The cost of plastering prep work varies based on the condition of the surface being plastered. Prep work includes sanding textured surfaces, moving furniture in rooms, filling holes in the wall, masking crown molding6 and switches and/or sockets with tape, and applying drywall mud and primer. The cost of plastering prep work ranges from $1 to $3 per sq. ft. and normally increases project costs by 10% to 30%.

Water-based plasters such as tadelakt should only be cleaned with soap and water. Earth plasters require no maintenance except to repair cracks or holes as they appear. Joint compound8 or plaster can be used to fill these areas and will blend nicely with the plaster. The cost of plaster repairs and maintenanceis $50 to $120 per square foot.

Drywall is often the preferred material for new homes as it is a quicker and easier install for builders. Plaster is more labor-intensive and requires a more specialized technique. So, finding a talented plasterer may cost more. However, drywall isn’t practical for curved walls, so plaster is the better choice. Plaster can also be more aesthetically pleasing to provide certain textures or finishes not available in drywall. Both materials provide good insulation from heat or cold, especially because drywall is now available in various thicknesses. Older homes with existing plaster may not have sufficient insulation. Retrofitting those walls with insulation is a challenging feat. Both products allow for a long-lasting, durable finish. The cost difference is higher with drywall installation costs of $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot as opposed to plaster costs of $5 to $10 per square foot for labor and materials.

Spackle is typically used for repairs to drywall and plaster walls. Plaster is only used on plaster walls. Spackle dries much quicker than plaster and can be used in a very thin layer. Plaster requires more dry time, a thicker application, and multiple layers that must dry in between applications. The cost for spackling is very low, $50 to $80 total, while plaster repairs are commonly $50 to $120 per square foot.

When plastering a room already in use, extra costs can also be expected, especially if the room is filled with furniture or other objects that the plasterer needs to move around. However, the owner can reduce this cost by moving objects himself/herself or pay an additional 2% to 5% in labor costs.

The Wallboard Tools Speed Filler Pump is an economical, mechanical loading and filling solution.  It features a specially shaped flat nozzle end that fits the mouths of Flat Boxes for fast filling – and the best part? It rinses clean in just seconds.

Lighter Spackle is generally made from vinyl and used to smaller fill holes made by nails, pins, and needles. Heavier spackle is made from acrylic and typically used for larger, thicker holes.

Although spackle dries much faster than joint compound, doesn’t shrink nearly as much, and is easier to use, joint compound is much easier to sand down. In addition to this, joint compound is also more dense, thicker, and all-around durable. The best part? You can use multiple layers to fill in and thicken up certain areas of a wall. This is just something spackle can’t do.

When trying to decide whether to use spackle or joint compound, always consider the job at hand. If you’re just trying to fill some holes and want to spread a thin layer, then spackle is the best choice. However, if you’re trying to cover a large area, thicken up a wall, or you want a surface that’ll be easy to sand, then joint compound is the better pick.

If you’re needing to fill in and cover some small holes in your drywall, then you’ll want to use spackle instead. That doesn’t mean you can’t use joint compound to fill in holes, but like mentioned earlier, spackle works better for these smaller jobs. To use spackle:

Before I talk about quality control, I’ll start with a quick overview of how Portland cement plaster is applied and finished. The application process starts by ensuring you are mixing enough material for the job. The plasterer sets up mud boards so that they can put mud on the hawk, take mud off the hawk with the trowel, and smooth it on the wire lath with enough material and pressure to bed the lath and provide enough material on top of the wire for a superior “scratch coat.”

The brown coat, the second coat of plaster, brings the plaster out to the grounds of the trim at the base of the wall and the edges of the doors and windows. The worker spreads plaster on the wall, and uses a darby to smooth the material as flat as he can while it is still plastic. When the brown coat sets, the wall is “rodded,” meaning the plasterer takes a long straight edge and works it over the wall to knock down high spots, fill in low spots, and ensure flatness.

A rubber float is then “floated” across the surface to compress the material and to knock off any minor high spots and fill in minor flaws. This coat is then moist cured morning and evening for 48 hours in preparation for the finish coat.

Counting the number of shovels of sand in a batch of plaster is one of the things you can do to ensure that you get a good sand-to-cement ratio (32 #2 shovels per 90-pound bag of cement is a good gauge when counting while watching a hod carrier mix mud).

The amount of material needed to fill that void and cover the metal base is approximately 3/8 inch of plaster. Using sufficient pressure ensures that enough material is pushed under and over the metal base, which we define as “embedment.” Making sure that you cover the wire and ensure a good scratch coat thickness is a critical step to creating a great stucco job. Scarifying (scoring) or grooving the surface of an unset plaster coat to provide a key for the subsequent coat ensures that the mechanical bond between the scratch and brown, as well as the chemical bond between the two coats, is strong.

ASTM C-926 requires, “The second (brown) coat shall be applied with sufficient material and pressure to ensure tight contact with the first (scratch) coat and to bring the combined thickness of the base coat to the nominal thickness …” and “… shall be brought to a true, even plane with a rod or straightedge, filling surface defects in plane with plaster.” Then, “the surface shall be floated uniformly to promote densification of the coat and to provide a surface receptive to bonding of the finish coat.”

Using a leveling coat creates a flatter wall than almost any other way of preparing a brown coat. The process can include skimming in a thin layer of stucco right after floating the wall to fill minor voids in the panel if you are machine-applying a finish coat. It can include rodding the brown coat and letting it set, but prior to moist curing, skim a tight coat of acrylic bonding material to fill aggregate voids and capture all the moisture in the panel so there is no evaporation. This creates a hard shell-like finish which has no suction, a perfect base for an acrylic finish.

With cement stucco finishes, you can fill minor voids in the brown coat by scratching and doubling back with the same material. But synthetic finishes reflect every variation in the plane, and also sometimes need a rolled on prep coat to ensure full coating of the color.

It doesn’t take magic to produce a great stucco job but you must be aware of the few things that really matter: watching to make sure you’ve a good job framing and a good job lathing; using good materials; assuring that the application of the material is done by well-trained lathers and plasterers; watching and checking to ensure that the material gets hard; and using good finishing techniques. Follow all those steps, and when you are done you’ll have a great stucco job.