triplex mud pump broken bolts supplier
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Adjust or replace these bearings at first sign of wear. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted at first signs of looseness.. You will note on series 3400, 3800, 3500, and 3900 pumps, that the shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting, although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings, and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on the bolts.
To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump, so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. Oil clearance should be checked with Plastigage (available in most parts stores). Wipe crankshaft journal clean of any oil, place a strip of Plastigage on the crankshaft journal and tighten rod cap to the proper torque value. Once tightened, remove rod cap and measure oil clearance with scale on Plastigage package. See oil clearance chart. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Rotate the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another 0.005" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted.
Torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper value. Again rotate the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should be ready for operation.
If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, care must-be taken: not to over-tighten the bearings, since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump. When bearings are adjusted by this method, watch carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.
It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly.
Inspect connecting rod bearings and adjust as necessary every six months or when crankcase lubricant is changed. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted to compensate for wear. You will note that shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on them.
To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is a little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Turn the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another .005"" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted, torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper amount. Again turn the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should then be ready for operation.
If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, the bearings may be completely adjusted by shaking the bearing on the shaft as stated above. Care must be taken not to over-tighten the bearings since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump by hand. When bearings are adjusted by this method, they must be watched carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.
Alternatively, plastic gauge strips, found in most parts stores may be used to adjust these bearings. It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. with experience, an operator can tell by feel when the bearings are properly adjusted. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly. All wrenches used in adjusting these bearings are standard wrenches.
During the 1950’s the Mission” 1780 type “W” pumps were introduced to replace duplex pumps while creating the first low pressure mud system. The use of a high quality concentric type centrifugal pump allowed abrasive fluids to be mixed and transferred while reducing initial and maintenance costs for the drilling industry. The low-pressure mud system with Mission 1 780 Type “W” centrifugal pumps became the industry standard.
As well depths increased so did the need for heavier mud weights. When the mud weight began exceeding 14 ppg the need for a pump that could withstand greater horsepower loads arose. During the 1970’s Mission organized a design team that engineered the Mission Magnum. The Magnum was designed to have the same footprint, flange locations, and drive shaft diameter as the 1780 “W”. This allowed a 1780 to be replaced by a Magnum without any skid modifications. The Magnums were originally engineered with a 2-1/2″ shaft (3″ between the bearings), double row bearings with an engineered life of over 2 years at 200 HP, larger impellers and heavier frames. The Magnum allowed drilling contractors to upgrade their centrifugal pumps and mix heavier fluids.
The National Oilwell Varco” Mission centrifugal pump line has proven to be the best centrifugal design for handling abrasive mud. This pump line offers a broad selection of innovative features for a variety of routine, demanding, abrasive and corrosive applications. These pumps are designed for a wide range of flow rates, from a few gallons per minute to thousands of gallons per minute.
Each pump contains the finest materials, engineering and craftsmanship available in the industry. Described are like features of these pump lines and unique features are described on the following pages.
National Oilwell Varco utilizes unique design features developed for slurries. Three major differences from most pump designs include the concentric casing, wider impellers and increased re-circulation areas. Each feature contributes to reducing wear when handling abrasive fluids.
All of the pumps feature a concentric casing. This casing averages 37% thicker than conventional pump casings, and up to 50% thicker for the larger, mud pumping models. They are pressure rated at 1 .5 times the flange rating and are designed with a 1 /8″ erosion allowance. The concentric style casing has proven to offer the greatest pump life and reduced downtime. The walls of a concentric style casing are an equal distance from the impeller throughout the impeller circumference, which results in a smooth flow pattern. A volute style casing has a cutwater point that disturbs the fluid flow pattern creating an eddy. The concentric casing eliminates vibration, turbulence and aeration that is caused by the cutwater point in conventional volute pumps. It also reduces the high bearing loads and shaft deflection even at near shutoff flows.
The shaft is much larger in diameter than conventional pump shafts for heavy-duty performance, minimum deflection and increased operating life of the seal or packing. With a 2-1/2″ diameter at the seal area and 3″ diameter between the bearings these pumps can be direct connected or belt driven.
Every mechanic knows the horrible feeling after they have turned a bolt too much and it snaps. The time invested to get your equipment back to work will now take hours or days to fix the problem of a broken bolt.
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Broken Bolts? Not a problem anymore Broken exhaust manifold bolts can be the start of a daunting journey of trying to figure out the best way to remove that broken bolt. Most mechanics cringe at the thought of removing broken exhaust manifold bolts as sometimes the engine will need to be removed in order to […]
A properly serviced pulsation dampener is critical for your mud pumps’ efficiency, safety, and performance. Unfortunately, there aren’t many resources available to educate personnel on executing safe and effective servicing procedures. Please review the following steps with your personnel for safe pulsation dampener maintenance.