overshot card factory

Place an overshot card on top of the shot charge just before crimping to improve overall crimp quality and seal in small shot and/or buffer. Excellent for use with BPI Roll Crimpers.

Our testing lab has proven that poor crimps can alter the performance of an otherwise good load. Overshot cards always produce better, more consistent crimps and this consistency is demonstrated in the standard deviation of loads in our lab. Our ballistic lab recommends overshot cards for better crimps in all loads.

Clear Overshot Disks(either plain or printed with shot size) are also offered for great roll crimping options. See pictures in Additional Images or click on this link.

Shotshell size selection:Use the same size gauge as your hull. Smaller diameter cards also work if your particular size is out of stock. For example, a 20ga overshot card works in a 16-gauge shotshell and so on.

Place an overshot card on top of the shot charge just before crimping to improve overall crimp quality and seal in small shot and/or buffer. Excellent for use with BPI Roll Crimpers.

Our testing lab has proven that poor crimps can alter the performance of an otherwise good load. Overshot cards always produce better, more consistent crimps and this consistency is demonstrated in the standard deviation of loads in our lab. Our ballistic lab recommends overshot cards for better crimps in all loads.

Shotshell size selection:Use the same size gauge as your hull. Smaller diameter cards also work if your particular size is out of stock. For example, a 20ga overshot card works in a 16-gauge shotshell and so on.

NOTE: We can no longer accept Paypal for Ammo or Ammo Components as it is against thier new rules. Apparently, they are trying to make us all safer, however this new rule/political statement does absolutely nothing but divide us. You can still pay by credit card, check, or money order. Sorry about that! Please voice your opinion to Paypal 1-888-221-1161

Place an overshot card on top of the shot charge just before crimping to improve overall crimp quality and seal in small shot and/or buffer. Excellent for use with BPI Roll Crimpers.

Our testing lab has proven that poor crimps can alter the performance of an otherwise good load. Overshot cards always produce better, more consistent crimps and this consistency is demonstrated in the standard deviation of loads in our lab. Our ballistic lab recommends overshot cards for better crimps in all loads.

Clear Overshot Disks(either plain or printed with shot size) are also offered for great roll crimping options. See pictures in Additional Images or click on this link.

Shotshell size selection: Use the same size gauge as your hull. Smaller diameter cards also work if your particular size is out of stock. For example, a 20ga overshot card works in a 16-gauge shotshell and so on.

When using a buffered load, I don"t use an overshot card. I don"t want any cards over my shot. I add a small, round circle of toilet tissue just to keep the buffer in place until I seal the hull after crimping. Some hulls might have a little hole in the middle after crimping. It just keeps any buffer from trickling out if I drop a load, knock it over or whatever before getting it sealed. Some people use Tyvek over the shot.

If you’ve been reading my articles for any length of time, you probably know I load a lot of shotgun shells using Lyman and other published data. Over the years I’ve also developed a large number of custom loads, many of which require filler wads or overshot cards to get the correct shot column and a good crimp. Although these aren’t the most expensive components on the market, they still add up, particularly if you need several per shell. To make matters worse, they’re often difficult to find, particularly if your local gun store stops stocking the brands you’re accustomed to.

With this in mind I’ve designed and manufactured my own custom punch for producing 12 gauge filler wads and overshot cards. The model shown in the video above represents my prototype, which I’ve been using and testing for quite a while now.

Operation is likewise extremely simple. If you check out the video above, you’ll see there’s a slot cut in the side to allow a multitude of different materials to be fed. So far I’ve used cardboard and vegetable fiber, in the future I’ll likely try cork as well.

With a good supply of these on hand, it’s no trouble at all to customize my shot columns by placing them above or below my shot or slugs. Likewise, if I’ve got a difficult load to crimp well, like low-volume birdshot or roundball slugs, adding one to the top as an overshot card makes things a snap.

The NC720 is very dense, tight, and offers some back-pressure that seems to give the shot more power when compared to lighter materials. Now that cards are hard to find, I"m punching my own and am looking for something similar to the Nitro Card (NC20). The description just says it"s made from .125" "specialized industrial board materials." They look a bit like masonite without the textured backing.

Overshot cards are placed on top of the shot column, just before crimping. Overshot cards aid the load"s combustion process. This produces more consistent pressures and velocities. Also, overshot card wads help the crimp to contain the payload (buffer) and keep contaminants and moisture out.

One major way to classify watermills is by wheel orientation (vertical or horizontal), one powered by a vertical waterwheel through a gear mechanism, and the other equipped with a horizontal waterwheel without such a mechanism. The former type can be further divided, depending on where the water hits the wheel paddles, into undershot, overshot, breastshot and pitchback (backshot or reverse shot) waterwheel mills. Another way to classify water mills is by an essential trait about their location: tide mills use the movement of the tide; ship mills are water mills onboard (and constituting) a ship.

There are two basic types of watermills, one powered by a vertical-waterwheel via a gear mechanism, and the other equipped with a horizontal-waterwheel without such a mechanism. The former type can be further divided, depending on where the water hits the wheel paddles, into undershot, overshot, breastshot and reverse shot waterwheel mills.

The Greeks invented the two main components of watermills, the waterwheel and toothed gearing, and used, along with the Romans, undershot, overshot and breastshot waterwheel mills.

Most watermills in Britain and the United States of America had a vertical waterwheel, one of four kinds: undershot, breast-shot, overshot and pitchback wheels. This vertical produced rotary motion around a horizontal axis, which could be used (with cams) to lift hammers in a forge, fulling stocks in a fulling mill and so on.

An inherent problem in the overshot mill is that it reverses the rotation of the wheel. If a miller wishes to convert a breastshot mill to an overshot wheel all the machinery in the mill has to be rebuilt to take account of the change in rotation. An alternative solution was the pitchback or backshot wheel. A launder was placed at the end of the flume on the headrace, this turned the direction of the water without much loss of energy, and the direction of rotation was maintained. Daniels Mill near Bewdley, Worcestershire is an example of a flour mill that originally used a breastshot wheel, but was converted to use a pitchback wheel. Today it operates as a breastshot mill.

Larger water wheels (usually overshot steel wheels) transmit the power from a toothed annular ring that is mounted near the outer edge of the wheel. This drives the machinery using a spur gear mounted on a shaft rather than taking power from the central axle. However, the basic mode of operation remains the same; gravity drives machinery through the motion of flowing water.

A different type of watermill is the tide mill. This mill might be of any kind, undershot, overshot or horizontal but it does not employ a river for its power source. Instead a mole or causeway is built across the mouth of a small bay. At low tide, gates in the mole are opened allowing the bay to fill with the incoming tide. At high tide the gates are closed, trapping the water inside. At a certain point a sluice gate in the mole can be opened allowing the draining water to drive a mill wheel or wheels. This is particularly effective in places where the tidal differential is very great, such as the Bay of Fundy in Canada where the tides can rise fifty feet, or the now derelict village of Tide Mills, East Sussex.Eling, Hampshire and at Woodbridge, Suffolk.

Cotton mills were driven by water. The power was used to card the raw cotton, and then to drive the spinning mules and ring frames. Steam engines were initially used to increase the water flow to the wheel, then as the industrial revolution progressed, to directly drive the shafts.

Historic Speedwell is an 8.2 acre National and State Register Historic Site that contains the estate of Stephen Vail, proprietor of the Speedwell Ironworks. The Factory Building and attached Wheelhouse are an excellent example of a preserved, early nineteenth-century vernacular farm building modified for various industrial purposes, typical of the early Industrial Revolution in the United States. Construction of a water-powered factory began in 1829 by Dayton Canfield and was eventually completed by his father-in-law, Stephen Vail, later that same year. The Wheelhouse contains a magnificent 24’ overshot waterwheel. The present wheel was installed in 1853 replacing an older one. By this time, George, Stephen’s younger son, had taken over the Ironworks, giving it his own name in 1845. The Waterwheel is made of wooden spokes and iron parts cast at the Speedwell Ironworks and bearing the “Geo. Vail and Co.” trademark visible on the outer rim of the wheel.