rotary table with chuck free sample

This is a modification of our 4″ Manual Rotary Table. This modification came about after requests from our laser engraving customers. They wanted a rotary table that had a larger through-hole to which they could mount our chucks.

This version of the Sherline rotary table has a Nickel-Teflon plating on the tabletop because it was designed to be used in an everyday production environment. This gives the table a rust-resistant surface that is hard and has added lubrication qualities.

The table is 2″ high and 4″ (100mm) in diameter. The main components have been machined from solid bar stock steel, and the complete unit weighs seven pounds. The table has been engraved with a laser, giving sharp and precise lines every 5°, numbered every 15°. These lines are calibrated with the 72-tooth worm gear that is driven by the handwheel or stepper motor. The handwheel is divided into 50 parts, making each line on the handwheel 1/10°. This allows a circle to be divided into 3600 increments without interpolation. Seventy-two revolutions of the handwheel rotate the table one revolution.

NOTE: You can have your manual rotary table upgraded to CNC-ready, but this is done as a factory-only replacement. You will need to ship your manual rotary table back to our factory for the conversion.

The H7506 Horizontal/Vertical Rotary Indexing Table has an indexing head, a precision adjustable 3-jaw chuck, and can be used in the horizontal or vertical position for a variety of milling applications.

The 24-slot main indexing plate is drilled with eleven holes so the position of the spacer plates can be changed during machining operations for different setups.

The H7506 manual was written by our U.S. based Technical Documentation Department and is packed with useful information. The complete and easy-to-read manual makes it easier to assemble and maintain your rotary table.

The Grizzly Customer Service and Technical Support Teams are U.S. based. Parts for the rotary table may be available online and shipped from the Grizzly parts warehouse in Springfield, MO.

10 days additional charges may be applied or may make your product(s) nonreturnable - Please contact Prolinemax Support Team 1.626.401.9887 for RMA# - Return item must be in the condition when it was delivered, new and in original packaging - All returns must be prepaid freight - We will refuse any return shipment without RMA# or package send COD or Freight Collect

Special purchases including: clearance products, inventory sale products, custom quotes, special discounts, etc.Any product that has been assembled, installed, modified or used in any way.Any product that is not in resalable condition.Any product not accompanied by a Return Merchandise Authorization Number (RMA#) issued by ProlinemaxAny product that is not in the original box with sufficient packaging materials.

6" PRECISION 3 slot ROTARY TABLE /HORIZONTAL&VERTICALwith 6" 3-jaw self-centering chuck top&bottom reversible jaws, front mounting. All bolts and T-nuts to  mount the chuck  included.

Years ago, before I learned CNC, I owned a Phase II 8″ horizontal/vertical rotary table that I purchased from Kap Pullen’s Getmachinetools.com store. He has them at a good price, BTW, and he’s a darned nice fellow to deal with as well as being a frequent HSM contributor. Anyway, its a nice little table, but I hadn’t done a whole lot with it for quite a while after purchasing it. As is so often the case, one day, a project landed on my doorstep and I was glad to have it.

Before I could get started, however, I had to make some accessories for it. Basically, I needed some T-Nuts to fit the table, as well as a little fixture that makes it easy to hold a plate up off the table through a hole in the center so you can machine it. The latter, what I call a “plate machining fixture”, was inspired by something similar I saw the Widgitmaster of CNCZone fame using to make Dremel clamps for his mini-router:

The Plate Maching Fixture and 3 Homemade T-Nuts. T-Nuts are easy to make: square a block to the proper dimensions, mill the side reliefs, drill, and tap. These are much smaller than the mill’s Bridgeport standard T-slots, so I made them myself and I’m using 1/4-20 bolts with them. They’re made of mild steel.

I turned the round spigot using the 4-jaw on the lathe. I’m making the fixture out of MIC-6 aluminum plate, which is pre-ground very flat on the sides. This is a 5 inch by 3 inch piece. I’ve clamped it to the rotab using my T-nuts and the regular mill clamps and step blocks. It is sitting on parallels to make sure I don’t cut into the table. You can also see how I’ve clamped the rotary table to the mill table using a big cast iron V-block I have. You can never have to many blocks with precision faces hanging around!

Having a 4-jaw chuck on your rotary table is mighty handy! Because it’s a 4-jaw, you can dial in the workpiece by adjusting the jaws until it is perfectly concentric with the table’s axis of rotation. The best way is to make an adapter plate that attaches to the back of the chuck in the same way that your lathe does so you can exchange lathe tooling with the rotab. Here is an example:

For the example, the chuck is threaded onto the adaptor plate, and then the holes in the adapter plate’s flange are used to bolt down to T-nuts on the table.

In my case, I bought a 4-jaw from Shars brand new, and simply drilled some through-holes in the chuck to mount to the table directly without an adapter plate:

First, you want to make sure your part is properly centered on the table. To do that, I clamp the table down on the mill table (no special place is needed), put my Indicol indicator holder on the mill spindle, and find some round feature on the part to indicate on. For example, on the plate milling fixture above, indicate on the round boss, or on the center hole. Spin the table and bump the part in until spinning the table doesn’t move the indicator.

Second, locate the center of rotation directly under the mill spindle. You can simply use the X and Y table handwheels to do this. Use that Indicol to indicate off of a circular feature you want centered under the spindle. Turn the indicol around on the spindle and adjust the handwheels until the indicator stays put relative to the spindle position. A Blake Coaxial indicator will make this last even simpler.

When you’re rounding partially by cranking a part around on the rotary table, it’s really easy to go a little too far and screw things up. The answer is to drill the end points to make the exact stopping point on the rotab a lot less sensitive:

Centering with a Blake indicator is really fast, but what if you don’t have a Blake, or worse, what if your mill is too small to accomodate one? Here is a nice solution I found on a German site. This fellow has made an ER collect fixture for his rotary table, and has taken care that when installed on the table, the axis of the collet is aligned with the table’s axis. He can then place a dowel or other straight pin in the collet and line up until it will go into a similarly sized collet on the spindle. Nice trick! It’s similar to how Widgitmaster showed me to align a drill chuck on a QCTP to the lathe centerline with a dowel pin held in the lathe chuck.

12" PRECISION ROTARY TABLE HORIZONTAL/VERTICAL w. 10" 3 jaw chuck w. top & bottom reversible   jaws and DP-2 2pcs index plates. All the attachments to mount the chuck and index plates included.

VEVOR is a leading brand that specializes in equipment and tools. Along with thousands of motivated employees, VEVOR is dedicated to providing our customers with tough equipment & tools at incredibly low prices. Today, VEVOR has occupied markets of more than 200 countries with 10 million plus global members.

VEVOR is a leading brand that specializes in equipment and tools. Along with thousands of motivated employees, VEVOR is dedicated to providing our customers with tough equipment & tools at incredibly low prices. Today, VEVOR has occupied markets of more than 200 countries with 10 million plus global members.

The mill rotary table is one of the main accessories of milling machine. As a precision work positioning device, it is widely used for indexing drilling, milling, circumferential cutting, boring, etc. The rotary turn table for milling machine is made from casting with high quality, can work with a set of dividing plate.

Both vertical and horizontal with two functions. Circle cutting, indexing drilling, milling and more complicated work are possible when the vertical position of the table is used together with the tail part.

Three dividing plate set(Plate "A" - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 Plate "B" - 21, 23, 27, 29, 31, 33 Plate "C" - 37, 39, 41, 43, 47, 49). A set of wrench and screws are free for you with your installation.

I have a 210, however it doesnt make much difference in the size. most of these guys made good points only thing I can add about the 2 piece jaw set is we cut our jaws for the 6" chuck we put on our 210. sometimes we have to use full pie jaws as well. I dont like the hard jaws that come with the cheaper chucks as they tend to not hold evenly and they will make parts.

I use our lathes collet chucks for the 210 also( you can for the 160 units too. so I have 5c 16c 20s avail. when I need them. just have to make a collet locking bar which is pretty simple. you will also might have to make a spacer to slip over the back side of collet so the face of the locking bar can ride on it.

I"d like to be able to put my 10" & 12" A (not sure which one, but short tapered nose, four bolts) series 3 & 4 jaw chucks on my 10" Phase II rotary table for doing bolt holes, gears; I don"t happen to have any smaller chucks. The center of the table has a MT2 taper I believe, which might serve to indicate where the center is but isn"t strong enough to coerce the chuck into the right position, even sitting free on the table. I guess the 4 jaw doesn"t need to be centered - only the work held by the chuck does - but since many things that need bolt patterns are already round, I could save some time by using the 3 jaw.