benchmaster rotary table supplier
I"d also suggest that you allow the work you do to help make the decision on rotab size. If you do nothing but small work a 6" table may be fine, but if you intend to pursue a wide variety of work, you"ll come to cuss that small table. They"re geared faster, so using them for large work isn"t very convenient, even if you can mount the work. No problem if you"re just drilling, but if you have to do any milling, it"s harder with a fast table.
The real issue is that a small table can be far more difficult to use for larger work, often eliminating the chance to make the required setup because there"s no surface left after placing the work piece on the table.
Just my 2 cents. Buy a larger rotary table, you"ll appreciate the extra real estate for clamping. If you can, steer clear of the combo horizontal/vertical ones, it"s just extra weight. When you finally have the need, buy a dividing head and foot-stock for horizontal work on the mill.
The Benchmaster Mill table measures 6 by 18 inches. The mill has limited space of about 8 inches from table top to bit bottom. I"ll keep looking for a 6 inch that has more than 3 slots and a low price. At this time i am not interested in the tailstock.
You can put a vise on a rotary table but consider the vise is a chuck. Consider the ability to turn a piece and remove it from the lathe and sit it upon that table and it perfectly centered. That is because you"ve made a center plug to fit the center of your table. The center can end to a thread matching the chuck, threaded or taper. Then again many Many chucks use 3 bolts to attach to the backplate anyway, so there could with centering plug, a chuck affixt quickly which when tightened aligns to center. Then only snug up the pass-thru studs to T nuts.
I have a small aluminum cylinder, 1.00" dia. and 1.00" height. I"d like to drill three holes in the base, equally spaced from the center and from each other (a minimalist bolt hole pattern), and so I believe that a rotary table might simplify the job.
My question is, what is the best or easiest way to hold the workpiece on the table? I"d like to be able to drill a bunch of these, so I need something that is easily repeatable. Is there some way to hold a collet in place in the center of the table, so that the collet can hold the workpiece? Or perhaps a 3-jaw chuck from a mini-lathe centered on the rotary table would do the trick? Or maybe I just need to clamp a vee block to the table?
Sounds like you have only one part. Mounting a rotary table for a one off is a lot of work, and dialing in a 1" diam part on the table, and holding it there is a PITA for one item.
Manufacturer of standard and custom 360 degree linear rotary tables for scanning, assembly, testing and production applications. Features vary depending upon model, including worm and gear drive design with central rotating ball bearings, manual and motorized operation, hollow spindles, four mounting holes, accessible adjustment clamps and graduated knobs. Accessories such as rotating table adapter plates, brackets, platform shelves, thumbscrew locks, alternative knobs, limit switches provided. Manually operated rotary motion turntables also available. Suitable for mounting and rotation of test specimens, cameras, transducers, sensors, mirrors and other components. Stock items and repair services are offered. One year warranty. Made in the USA.
Our product range includes single and multiple axes, tilt/rotating tables, and indexing and high-speed spindles. Additionally, we offer customized solution tables for customer requests or OEM projects.
Even for EDM machines that have been in use for decades, we will work with you to determine the ideal rotary indexing table and/or rotating/indexing spindle solution.
Our state-of-the-art rotary indexing tables and customizable reference and clamping systems provide endless application possibilities and highly efficient solutions.
The Benchmaster is a small Bridgeport-styled vertical mill. Unlike most bench top mills, the Benchmaster uses a knee for the Z-axis, rather than a moving headstock. Although this makes for a relatively stiff machine, it also makes the mill heavy, and limits the total headroom. It was sold in both vertical and horizontal models – I have the vertical model, but would be very interested in acquiring the parts to convert to a horizontal. For more information on the Benchmaster, check out the Benchmaster page at the excellent lathes.co.uk site.
So far, I’ve replaced the drive motor and belt, trammed in the machine, and installed an ER-25 collet set. I’ve also picked up an original Benchmaster rotary table – a good find, since most currently produced rotary tables are significantly taller, and eat away at the machine’s already-limited headroom. In the future, I want to completely restore the machine, add DROs and a back gearing system, and ideally convert it to dual-use manual/CNC like this guy did – it’s going to definitely take a little while before I can get there, though.