troyke 15 rotary table made in china

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I have a Jet JTM-830 vertical mill with a 7-inch wide table. Would there be anything wrong with using a 10-inch rotary table? It would hang over a bit, but it seems like it would allow for easier clamping, and machine table movement would allow me to cover the whole table. I obviously don"t want one so large or heavy that it affects the machine, but on the other hand, a 6-inch rotary table seems like it would have too many limitations.

I have a 12" Van Norman rotary table (probably 125lbs+) I use on all our machines, from the Grizzly Millrite copy to the VN 22L. I wouldn"t LEAVE it bolted to the table of the Grizzly, especially run way over to one side, but if the knee won"t hold that up, it probably shouldn"t be called mill. Get a big "un.

The 10" and 12" rotary table is fairly common in shops with standard Bridgeport mill types having a 9" table. The 10" should be adequate and a lot lighter than the 12"s. There are also 8" rotary tables. I doubt weight would be an issue for these smaller sizes.

Your assessment is right on the money. Buy the largest table you are comfortable in handling. I use a 12" and wouldn"t want one any smaller. It"s just too damned hard to make acceptable setups on small tables. If it weren"t for the difficulty of handling the 15" Bridgeport table, I"d have bought that in place of the 12" one I own.

I"d have to admit that the majority of RT setups using toe clamps do eat up the outer 1"+ of the table surface. Thereby reducing the working envelope if no other means of work holding are available.

I hope to put up an I-beam trolly with an electric hoist to avoid lifting my 12" RT. I would not want to even think of lifting a 15" unit without a hoist system. LOL!

That"s the one place size can work against you. I have the right angle plate for my Bridgeport, and it"s all I can do to put the rotary table on the mill when it"s mounted to the plate. A lifting device certainly wouldn"t be a bad idea, especially now that I"m older and don"t have the physical strength necessary to handle the table. I guess my advice might be tempered with the comment that it depends on how you"d use your table--------the smaller tables can be easier to use when doing horizontal work, and don"t eat up spindle clearance quite as much.

You could always buy a smaller table and then add an aluminum sub table to it to make it larger. My table is 8" and I plan to make a 12" table top 1" thick. Then you can drill and tap it for clamps or whatever you prefer.

You could always buy a smaller table and then add an aluminum sub table to it to make it larger. My table is 8" and I plan to make a 12" table top 1" thick. Then you can drill and tap it for clamps or whatever you prefer.

That"s an excellent way to extend any rotary table. I have a plate that is about 16" diameter that pins to the center hole of my table for quick setup. I also drilled and counterbored the mounting holes so nothing is above the surface when it"s installed. As you suggest, it"s easy to drill and tap holes as necessary.

This is how that can work. This operation is milling radiused cheek horn slots (to 11"R) on locomotive axleboxes. The "plank" is a piece of 3/4" steel plate picked up as scrap and surface prepped. The DTI at right is placed so as to indicate rise of table and therefore exact depth of cut.

The rotary table is a restored 9" Troyke (ca 1949), a grimey lump picked up for peanuts on eBay but which turned out to be virtually unused under the grunge. I"m not sure of the weight of this but it"s about the heaviest table I"d want to lug around the workshop and keep off the machine and mount it each time I needed to use it.

If the 36:1 ratio isn"t too coarse for your needs, and you can deal with the T slots being cut right through your degree marks on the edge of the table (lol), then it may be ok. Based on my experience with Chinese and Indian tooling, expect that the lash between the worm and worm wheel will vary as the table turns, so you have to find a balance between the tight spots and loose spots.

I considered this same table for some time, but it wouldn"t do for the type of work required. I looked to the Sherline table instead, which is supposed to be really good, and eventually decided to build my own, based on a scaled down Troyke design. It"s going to take a long time, but it"ll be nicer than any miniature rotary table I could buy even if I wanted to spend the money. Plus, it"ll keep me off the streets and out of trouble.

I think you"ll be happy with the big BP table. When the time comes and you need to do some rotating work on the vertical mount, pick up one of those Chinese made B&S clone dividing heads. They are pretty tight and work well once cleaned up.

In case you didn"t pick it up, the difference between the two is how they make angles. Rotary tables are cranked to degrees, minutes, and seconds, such that a square is 90-90-90-90 and you"re done. The dividing head is a different beast, it divides a circle into large prime numbers and base multiples. For example, a 7-sided polygon on a rotary table is a clusterfrick of 7x 51.428571428571428571428571428571 degrees, or something approximating 51° 25" 42.85714". Not very useful. On the dividing head, it"s stupid simple- divide one circle by seven and you"re done, with perfect precision.

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formatting link It was described as "untested, as is", so I called the seller and spoke on the phone. My impression from him was that he was an honest person, so I bought this table despite it being AS IS.

Now that I have only a few odds and ends to do on the mill, like buttons and switches. They are complicated due to HALUI etc, so I wanted to do soemthing easy. I looked at the table again.

I stuck a bar into the table"s motor connection (star type plastic force transmitter thingy) and tried to turn the table. After a little effort with a wrench, it moved. I found one more screw that might (not sure) have stopped the table, backed it out, and in any case, after a little while of rocking around the table felt much easier to move. It might have sat for 10 years or whatever and just got all stuck.

What I do not know is what is the operating voltage of this table. How would I find out? I am thinking, to take the motor out again (or take the rear encoder cover), and increase voltage until I get approximately 2,000 RPM from the motor. That should be appx. the max voltage. I do not really care with this table, to get max speed from it, as rotary tables do not often need to turn fast. I just do not want to go beyond the parameters of the motor.