water heater safety valve leaking supplier

If you’ve noticed water pooling around your hot water heater, this may be because of the water heater pressure release valve. Wondering what this means, and what you should do about it? Find out now!

It typically consists of a valve that attaches to the side of the tank with a long copper tube or PVC tube that runs vertically downward, allowing water to drain out of the valve when necessary.

If you are having trouble finding the valve on your unit, or cannot identify it, we recommend searching for the make and model of your water heater on the internet. The manufacturer’s schematics and manuals will help you locate the water heater pressure relief valve.

The water heater pressure release valve, also known as the “temperature and pressure” (T&P) valve is a valve that helps control the pressure and temperature of your water heater, preventing it from overheating, becoming too highly pressurized, and potentially exploding.

The way this valve works is by sometimes letting a little bit of water drip out of the tank. When there is too much pressure inside the tank, the valve opens up to relieve this pressure and some water will drip out of it. This is normal, and indicates that the valve is functioning properly.

However, if your water heater pressure release valve is constantly leaking a lot of water, the water contains debris, or your valve is making a lot of noise like whistling and screeching, this may indicate that it has failed, and is not operating properly.

If your water heater pressure release valve only leaks every once in a while, this is normal. It’s doing its job, and there’s nothing to worry about. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it’s not draining constantly.

But if you notice the aforementioned issues like lots of drainage coming from the valve, water flooding, or whistling and screeching sounds from the valve, you should:

Turn off the power to the heater – You can flip the breaker attached to an electric heater, turn off the gas to a gas heater, or use an on/off switch if present on the heater itself.

Call G&C Plumbing to get help – Call us right away to get help. A damaged or failing water heater pressure relief valve could cause serious damage, so you need to work with a professional to repair or replace your water heater, as necessary.

Before you call G&C Plumbing for help, remember to shut off the power and water to your hot water heater. Then, call us today at 508-541-8783, and we’ll head your way first thing the next day.

We’ll check your water heater pressure relief valve, determine the source of the issue, and let you know your best option for restoring the proper, safe functionality of your hot water heater. Call today to get the help you need in Franklin or Bellingham, MA today.

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

This article explains hot water thermal expansion that can cause leaks, drips, or discharges from pressure relief valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, or TP valves found on heating boilers, water heaters.

Watch out: a dripping or frequently spilling T&P valve is dangerous because those very leaks can eventually cause the valve to clog and then to fail to open when it should.

See HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE - for an explanation of just how much pressure increase to expect when heating water. In explaining why the relief valve on a water heater may be dripping, American Water Heater Co. [1] explains:

Note: While a 125 psi pressure relief valve on cold water supply piping is fine to protect piping from rupturing, if building incoming water pressures are too high, rather than relying just on a relief valve (wasting water) we prefer to install a pressure reducing/control valve at the building entering water supply piping. Limit incoming water pressure to 60 psi at a typical one or two story residential home.

Watts (2011) suggests two methods for testing for thermal expansion of hot water as the cause of a TP valve drip. The text below is adapted from that source.

If the TPR valve is leaking due to thermal expansion of hot water, simply opening a water faucet or fixture anywhere in the plumbing system will immediately stop the drip.

That"s because opening the hot water faucet reduces the system pressure back to normal operating levels - we are no longer heating water in a "closed" piping and tank system.

Why would opening either a hot or cold water faucet work? Because when no water is running, the entire plumbing system is "closed" - unless there is an expansion tank already installed on the hot water heating system to accommodate thermal expansion, heating water in the water cylinder (water heater for Yanks) causes an increase in system pressure.

Install a pressure gauge on a convenient hose bib such as at the washing machine hook-up or if weather permits, outdoors. Install & use the pressure gauge to monitor system water pressure over at least a full 24-hour period. You don"t have to sleep by it.

If you select a pressure gauge with a re-settable "telltale" needle, the gauge"s re-settable indicator will indicate the highest pressure that has been reached by the water system since the water pressure test gauge was installed.

SeeMEASURE WATER SYSTEM PRESSURE & PRESSURE MAXIMUM for tips on how to make or buy an inexpensive recording-type water pressure test gauge for this purpose.

where we describe both hot water expansion tanks and hot water expansion relief valves designed to handle thermal water pressure increases and thus to stop dripping TP valves.

Watch out: get advice from a licensed plumber and your local water supplier. Never remove or plug a leaky pressure/temperature relief valve on a water heater - doing so risks dangerous or even fatal

See RELIEF VALVE LEAK DUE TO EXPANSION TANK where in a series of steps a homeowner figures out that a leaky TPR valve is due to the failure of the internal bladder of an expansion tank attached to the boiler.

If the building water pressure gauge reading is ever found at 80 psi or higher, you will want to install a water pressure regulator at the point where water supply enters the building.

If your building already has a water pressure gauge installed, it may be defective or it may be set too high. The articles listed just below discuss how to adjust a water pressure regulator:

An alternative to installing or changing a water pressure regulator when building water pressure is occasionally 80 psi or higher is the installation of an expansion tank to temporarily absorb that pressure increase.

Proper use of an expansion tank can help avoid unnecessary opening of the pressure/temperature relief valve on a hot water heating tank or a hot water heating boiler.

You go through alot of effort to explain how heated water expands and the resulting increase in pressure. All that is well and good for theory. In a domestic (North American) water supply system, to the best of my knowlege there is nothing to prevent the expanding water/pressure from the hot water heater from just backing up into the supply plumbing and hence the water pressure in the hot water heater would NEVER exceed the supply pressure. Or is there a required one way valve somewhere in the system I am not aware of say in the hot water heater?

Domestic water systems in most cities are required to have a backflow preventer or check valve on the system. So when no water is being run the system is in effect closed.

My original interest and intent was to show that the actual expansion in volume from heating water is actually very small. Nevertheless, on some systems, the water heater can cause enough of a pressure increase that some installations include a small water heater expansion tank.

Where expanding hot water pressure is causing trouble the common solution is the installation of a small expansion tank, usually on the hot water supply line above the water heater, though it could go almost anywhere so long as it"s not isolated from the heater by a shutoff valve.

Thermal expansion occurs as domestic water is heated. Left unchecked, the resulting pressure increase can cause relief valve discharge and other potentially hazardous conditions. Therm-X-Trol® expansion tanks absorb this expanded water, keeping water pressure at a safe level.

Water heater manufacturers and plumbing codes require the installation of an expansion control device if a backflow preventor, pressure reducing valve or check valve is installed in the domestic supply line.

Watch out: a leaky relief valve on a water heater, heating boiler, or any other closed vessel is dangerous. Leaks ultimately can lead to relief valve clogging, failure, and worse, BLEVE EXPLOSIONS. Beginning at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS we describe all of the causes of and cures for leaky relief valves or TP valves.

ANSI BS 7074-1:1989, Application, selection and installation of expansion vessels and ancillary equipment for sealed water systems. Code of practice for domestic heating and hot water supply (British Standard)

This standard covers the test methods and performance requirements applicable for waterheater supply shutoff valve with a thermal expansion control valves for use on closed plumbing systems.

This European Standard specifies, dimensions, materials and performance requirements (including methods of test) for expansion valves, of nominal sizes from DN 15 to DN 40, having working pressures 1) from 0,1 MPa (l bar) to 1,0 MPa (10 bar).Expansion valves are intended for fitting to the cold water supply of storage water heaters, having a maximum distribution temperature of 95 °C, for all energy sources.

Expansion valves do not control the temperature and alone does not constitute the protection required for storage water heaters. Expansion valves limit pressure, in the water heaters to what they are fitted, that is produced by thermal expansion of the water .NOTE : The use of the device specified in this Standard does not override the need to use controls (e.g. thermostats and cut-outs) which act directly on the power sources of water heaters.

"THERM-X-TROL® Water Heater Expansion Tanks", [web page] Amtrol,1400 Division Road, West Warwick RI USA 02983, Tel: 800-426-8765, Website: www.amtrol.com, retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/thermxtrol.html

"THERMAL EXPANSION TANKS for POTABLE WATER, Installation & Operation Instructions" [PDF], Models ST-5 through ST-201V & Models T-5 through T-12, Amtrol, Op. Cit., retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/thermxtrol/9015087_06_16_Thermal_Expansion_Tank_IO_.pdf

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

Similar products manufactured by Watts are described at WATER HEATER THERMAL EXPANSION PRODUCTS - WATTS [PDF] https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Watts-Thermal-Expansion-Products.pdf

My hot water tank has a Thermal Expansion Control Valve installed on the cold water intake line (rather than an expansion tank). In the past 2-3 days, I have noticed that there is a small amount of water constantly draining out of this Valve/Tube.

The leakage is constant, even during/after a long hot shower, which presumably would drain a lot of the hot water out of the tank and temporarily stop any thermal expansion/condensation. It is important to note that the T&P valve on the water heater itself is fine, there is no leak or release of pressure/water happening there.

(Why else would it still leak when the hot water tank is being drained and cold water is entering the tank?). Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this? I"m pretty sure I should be calling in for a repair, but unsure how urgent. (Am I at risk of a BLEVE explosion given the leak is constant, even when the tank should not be up to temp/pressure and even the pipe between the tank and the valve feels cold?).

It is possible on SOME water heaters to set the temperature above 210°F (99°C) but in my experience that would be unusual - you"d have probably scalded everyone using the hot water system.

1. It is already telling us that (usually) there is an unsafe condition such as pressure too high (water tank can blow up in a BLEVE explosion) or temperature too high (someone can be scalded - burned)

2. If it"s dripping just because the valve itself is old and defective the risk is that scale clogs the valve, it stops relieving, and then you"re missing a critical life-safety device.

the hot water heater has been shut down about one year , I lit the polite then went back a few hours later when I noticed the pressure relieve valve was spraying water out. so I shut the gas off. not sure what"s going on. ?

Continue reading at HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS for a solution to thermal expansion leaks at relief valves on water heaters, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1] "Residential Electric Water Heater Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide", American Water Heater Co., October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source: americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf [copy on file] [Technical review requested 1/25/2011]

[3] Pounds of lime deposited vs. temperature and hot water usage: see Purdue Bulletin #74 (also provided by A.O. Smith in the article below). Purdue"s chart shows the number of pounds of lime deposited per year as a function of the water usage in gallons per day, with an assumed 10 grains of water hardness.

[4] "When, Why, and How to Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Glass-Lined Water Heaters (for non glass-lined tanks, consult water heater manufacturer)" PDF provided by A.O. Smith Water Products Company - hotwater.com/lit/training/4800r9.pdf 800-433-2545 - 01/07/2009.

[6] A.O. Smith"s Form No. 4778* All about Deliming Coil-Type/Tube-Type Commercial Water Heaters and Hydronic Boilers *Normally supplied when ordering Part No. 4930 Motorized Deliming Pump Kit

[7] "Building Owner Water Heater Safety Notice", Building Department, City of Colleyville TX, web search 09/24/2010, original source: http://www.colleyville.com/dmdocuments/Building%20

Water heater safety is imperative to the occupants of a building or structure. If improperly installed, water heaters can be detrimental to the structure, as well as being potentially fatal to its occupants. The proper installation of a water heater is so important that according to Texas State Law all water heater installations must be inspected by a state licensed plumbing inspector.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

A water heater is an essential appliance in any household; One that is tough to go without for even the shortest period. Naturally, a problem with a water heating unit can quickly become a source of stress. Discovering water on the floor of your home is likely to spark many questions: Why is my water heater leaking? Is it a dangerous situation? How much will it cost to fix?

Fortunately, many leaks are merely the result of overflow valves at work. While any sign of unexpected water in the home is undoubtedly a concern, these types of issues can often be resolved without significant expenditures of time or money. Read on to learn more about these invaluable valves, why they leak, and what can be done to restore your heater to full strength.

A water heater overflow valve is designed to prevent excessive pressure from building up inside the unit’s tank. For this reason, the valves are sometimes called pressure or temperature and pressure relief valves. Similar to a circuit breaker’s job of preventing electrical system overload, this valve allows water to escape from an over-pressurized unit to avert a potentially catastrophic outcome.

In rare instances, pressure relief valves for boilers are inadvertently installed on water heaters due to their similar appearances. This installation will almost always result in problems, as such valves are only designed to allow for pressure levels up to 30 psi (pounds per square inch), as opposed to the 150 psi needed for water heaters.

It is also important to note that leaks can originate from other parts of a water heater, or can even stem from other adjacent sources. Verify that nearby pipes or appliances (such as water softeners) aren’t the roots of leaks before proceeding.

Once you have determined that your overflow valve is the actual source of your leak, there are several recommended steps to take. The first and most basic is to replace the valve; this part can generally be found for under $20. ― Do not attempt to reuse a blown valve.

Whether you intend to replace this part yourself, it is advisable to turn your water heater off at the first indication of a leak. On electric units, switch off the appropriate circuit breaker to safely cut power. For gas-powered heaters, either switch the control dial to the “Off” position or if necessary, shut off the gas valve itself. If leaking water is continuous, terminate the cold water supply as well.

If you do not feel confident replacing a water heater overflow valve on your own, it is smart to call on a professional for assistance. The upfront cost may run a little higher, but the price of having the job done right the first time can save you plenty of dollars in the long run.

Should a new overflow valve fail to resolve your water heater problems, it may be necessary to take further action. Persistent leaks typically point to more significant concerns than a bad valve, such as the condition of a closed plumbing system. This can occur when a regulator is installed on a home’s water main to protect its system from excessive pressure, which can, in turn, prevent water from expanding back out through the cold water inlet.

There are plenty of hazards associated with leaking water in the home, starting with the significant risk of property damage. The Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety notes that water heater failures cost homeowners an average of over $4,400 post-deductible. That number increases substantially when units are placed on the first floor rather than the basement level.

Water damage and mold are two examples of leak-related issues that only become more costly to repair over time. When you observe leaking water in your home, make a wise choice—contact an experienced professional and get on top of problems before they become worse. Day & Night Air is the plumber Phoenix residents trust for all their maintenance needs, whether it is s a routine service call or emergency repairs. Contact us today for all of your residential and light commercial plumbing needs.

It can be all too easy to forget about your water heater when everything appears to be working correctly. However, a stuck or faulty pressure relief valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to reach dangerous levels — with potentially explosive results. Therefore, testing your water heater pressure relief valve should be at the top of your home maintenance checklist.

You don"t need to be a professional plumber to check your water heater"s safety mechanisms. With the right knowledge, even novice DIY-ers can test their water heater pressure relief valves.

A water heater pressure relief valve is exactly what it says on the tin: a safety mechanism that prevents excessive pressure from building up in your water heater"s tank. Without it, there would be a risk of the tank bursting and flooding your house. A bursting water tank can also cause serious injury and damage to your home"s structure, so keeping the pressure relief valve in good working order is essential.

Pressure inside your water tank occurs when the water expands and produces steam as it heats. The hotter the water, the greater the potential for high pressure. Although some pressure is normal and can escape through the pipes supplying your fixtures, the pressure relief valve activates when the pressure exceeds safe levels. It releases some hot water and steam until the pressure level normalizes.

A water heater pressure relief valve is a short, flat lever attached to a pipe running through the water heater. Its location varies depending on what water heater model you have, but you can usually find it above the tank or high up on one of the sides.

Sometimes, a water heater"s pressure relief valve can get stuck due to a build-up of deposits. Corrosion can also damage the valve and stop it from working correctly. A stuck or broken valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to exceed the safe limit, so it"s crucial to test it regularly.

You can test your water heater pressure relief valve by opening it slightly with a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Don"t force the valve open if you feel resistance. You"ll know that your valve is working properly if you can see or hear water and gas escaping. If you can"t see water escaping, or you can"t turn the valve easily, it"s time to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve. You should also call a plumber if you see signs that the valve is leaking, such as water pooling on the floor under the tank.

Sometimes, a water heater pressure relief valve will start leaking after you test it, even if the test shows that it"s working correctly. You can often solve this problem by gently opening and closing the valve a few times to remove any deposits stopping it from shutting. Call a plumber to check and repair the leak if this doesn"t work.

You should test your water heater pressure relief valve once or twice each year. The more often you check the valve, the higher the chances of detecting a problem early and preventing a costly leak or burst tank.

One of the most effective ways to prevent problems with your water heater"s pressure relief valve is to ensure that the drain line is installed correctly. It should angle downwards and match the valve"s exhaust port size to allow water to drain properly and prevent corrosion. It"s also essential to use a drain line made from heat-resistant material, like copper. You should call a plumber to replace the drain line if you"re concerned that your installation is incorrect.

Insulating the drain line can stop it from freezing in cold weather. A frozen drain line will stop the pressure release valve from functioning correctly, even if it"s otherwise in good condition.

When you open a water heater pressure relief valve, the water that drips out will be very hot. Therefore, it"s essential to wear protective gloves and eyewear and avoid opening the valve all the way. You may also wish to consider wearing protective clothing to protect your skin against burns.

You will need to replace your water heater pressure relief valve if it"s stuck or damaged. A plumber can tell you whether it"s best to repair the valve or replace it altogether. Furthermore, it"s wise to replace the valve every five years or so, especially if it hasn"t been tested recently.

That little puddle of water around the water heater has you worried. It doesn’t seem to get bigger and sometimes it looks like it’s altogether disappeared.

It may be therelief valveon your heater. Commonly referred to in the trades as a T&P valve (temperature and pressure relief valve), this little fella has a very important job to do.

Have you ever seen that insurance TV commercial where the water heater explodes through the roof of the house and winds up in the street out front? If not – Google it. It’s a good illustration of what can happen if the T&P valve is not working properly.

That little brass valve on the side or top of your water heater is designed to let water or steam out of your water heater when the temperature or pressure inside exceeds the safe operating limits.

If you have abackflow preventeron the water service coming into your house, and you have no, an improperly installed, or a defective expansion tank on your water heater, the pressure in the tank will exceed the operating limits of the heater every time it heats up and the relief valve will do its job—it will release the extra pressure in the form of hot water through the valve and onto the floor.

The next reason might be afaultyrelief valve. As the water heater gets older, the rubber washer in the bottom of the relief valve gets harder and harder.

Then when you test the relief valve during periodic maintenance, the washer may crack or crumble just enough to create a leak. If you don’t test the relief valve periodically (you do test it, right?) then the washer may even stick to the bottom of the bottom of the valve (called the seat) and crack or crumble the next time you do test it. The solution is to replace the relief valve.

At Yes! Plumbing we find several faulty relief valves a year when we are doing our yearly free maintenance services for our Club Members. For this reason we carry them on the trucks and are prepared to replace them if they turn out to be faulty when tested.

A leak from a water heater can be a source of major concern. In addition to causing water damage in the area around the water heater, a water leak typically indicates a more serious problem with your San Antonio water heater. Leaks should be addressed immediately. In some cases, you may notice a leak coming from what looks like an overflow pipe attached to your water heater.

Since the condensate overflow pipe for air conditioners looks similar, the vertical pipe on water heaters is often confused for an overflow pipe. However, this pipe is actually what’s known as a temperature and pressure relief valve drain pipe. Keep reading to learn more about water heater leaks and what to do specifically if you notice a leak coming from the pipe attached to this valve.

A temperature and pressure relief valve does just what its name suggests: relieves temperature and pressure from a water heater. If the internal pressure in your hot water heater reaches or exceeds 150 pounds per square inch, or if the temperature of the water exceeds 210 degrees Fahrenheit, the temperature and pressure relief valve will open.

When it opens, hot water comes rushing out of the water heater and through the temperature and pressure relief valve drain pipe. This release of water prevents the water heater from exploding due to excess pressure and temperature. Given this crucial function, it’s important that you ensure the proper operation of your temperature and pressure relief valve at all times.

Before moving on to various leaking scenarios, we at Beyer Plumbing want to offer a quick word on maintaining your temperature and pressure relief valve.

On a regular basis, you want to check your relief valve for leaks, which could indicate that your relief valve is wearing out. Additionally, you need to test your relief valve at least once a year to ensure it’s able to open when necessary. If age has caused your relief valve to become stuck in the closed position, it will be easy for pressure to build in your water heater, leading to a potential explosion.

If you test your relief valve and notice it isn’t operating properly, therefore, it’s crucial that you reach out to Beyer Plumbing to allow us to replace the valve.

It’s important to understand that a leak from your water heater can have many different sources. Occasionally, what looks like a leak is simply caused by condensation that pools around your hot water heater due to the cold water supply line.

If you notice this condition, it’s typically indicative of nothing more than humid air. While you should put a towel around the water heater to prevent water damage, you likely won’t need any repairs from Beyer Plumbing. However, there are many other causes of leaks that do require repairs. Here are some of the most common causes of leaks.

Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve: Since this article focuses on the ins and outs of the temperature and pressure relief valve, we will list that cause first. The seal in these relief valves can wear out over time, causing a leak from your water heater.

Given its important role in regulating pressure, the relief valve is put under a lot of stress and strain, meaning it may need to be replaced as often as every three to five years. While you can obtain the materials to complete this repair yourself, it’s best if you have someone from Beyer Plumbing complete the repair to ensure it’s completed safely and correctly.

Of course, a leak from your temperature and pressure relief valve could also indicate a more serious issue of excess pressure or temperature in your water heater. While the possible causes of this condition will be discussed later in this article, suffice it to say that any problem that produces excess pressure is one that needs professional assistance from Beyer Plumbing.

Supply Line Leak: Another possible leak source is the supply lines leading to and from your water heater. Since these pipes require a watertight connection to prevent leaks, any degradation in that seal can cause water to leak on top of and around your water heater. It’s important to check your supply lines and connections for corrosion at least once a year to ensure there aren’t any problems brewing.

Water Heater Drain: The drain on your water heater is another common point of failure that can cause leaks. This device is used to drain the water in your water heater to help prevent scale deposits on the inside of the tank.

At times, the gasket that helps keep the water in the tank when the drain is closed can wear out, leading to a leak. Considering the location of the drain, you’ll want to be careful during repair or replacement to ensure the large quantity of water is drained away from your home.

Tank Rust: Since water heaters are made of metal, they can eventually rust through, leading to leaks. Though water heaters are equipped with devices to help slow down corrosion, it can still occur if your water heater is especially old. Once a water heater has been rusted through, the only option is to replace the unit with a new one from Beyer Plumbing.

Now that you understand some of the possible causes of leaks from your water heater, we’ll discuss one of the most serious: leakage from the temperature and pressure relief valve due to excess pressure or temperature in your water heater. While it’s easy to understand the important role of the temperature and pressure relief valve, you may be wondering how pressure can build up in your water heater in the first place.

One of the most common causes of excess pressure in a water heater is simply having the temperature set too high. Since water expands as it’s heated, higher-temperature water occupies more volume, which, in the confines of a water heater, results in increased pressure. If the pressure increases too much, your relief valve will activate, releasing water through the drain pipe. Therefore, it’s important to keep your temperature set no higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit at all times.

Another possible cause of high pressure in your water heater is variations in the pressure of the water that comes into the water heater. If the source of water experiences an increase in pressure, when it is further expanded due to heating, it will result in excess pressure that must be relieved.

At Beyer Plumbing, we care about your safety and comfort. That’s why we take great care in inspecting and maintaining your water heater. If you experience a water heater leak, we can investigate the source of the leak and get it repaired as soon as possible. We can also take care of your other plumbing needs, including clogged drains, leaky faucets, and broken toilets.

For 30 years, we have been serving our community with top-notch service and professionalism. We operate on three core values: trust, integrity, and relationships, and you can be sure we apply those core values to each and every project we complete. As proud members of the Texas Air Conditioning Contractors Association and proud recipients of an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau, we encourage you to give us a call today to get your plumbing and HVAC needs addressed. We water heater installation we use brands like Rheem but service all makes and models.

Everybody knows that electricity and water don’t mix. It’s no different when your hot water heater is leaking. Having a gas water heater doesn’t necessarily protect you from this risk, either. Many gas heaters use electricity to keep thepilot light ignited. You can’t always tell this is the case by simply looking for a plug leading from the heater to an outlet, either; some gas heaters that use electricity don’t rely directly on the mainline.

This is less of a step and more of a precaution to keep in mind as you handle your hot water heater that’s leaking. Unlike water softeners (you can read about water softener leaks here), the water in your heater is, well, heated. Most water heaters in Phoenix ship with a default setting of 140 degrees Fahrenheit. If you’ve ever had the system adjusted by a professional, they likely only turned it down to 120 degrees, which is the recommended temperature.

You can read the very detailed steps for doing this in our article on cleaning water heaters. As a general overview, this process involves switching the thermostat off, opening your faucets to avoid creating a vacuum, connecting a hose to your drain valve, activating the valve, and allowing the tank to drain into a container or floor drain.

A leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve is a major concern, especially if it’s the first time dealing with this problem. While some people tend to panic and get help immediately, others may just shrug their shoulders and assume that the leak is a common occurrence. However, there are many causes of leaks in water pressure relief valves. And all these must be addressed immediately given the high risks of property damage and hazards that can occur if the issue is ignored.

The pressure relief valve gives steam and water a chance to escape when either the pressure or temperature in the water tank gets too high. A malfunctioning valve can cause the water heater to explode and is the major cause of water heater explosions. In water heater pressure relief valves, the valve is set to open when the pressure exceeds 150 psi.

A leaking valve is not always a broken valve. In some cases, a water heater’s pressure relief valve may leak because it is functioning as intended. As excess pressure is relieved out of your water heater system, some water may leak. This necessitates the need to test the pressure in your water heater.

The process is not complicated. However, if you are not comfortable checking the water pressure, you can always contact your technician. To test the pressure, use a pressure gauge and attach it to either the cold-water pipe or the hot water pipe. However, one of the easiest places to connect the pressure gauge is the outdoor hose faucets. For this, ensure you purchase a pressure gauge that is designed for garden hoses.

Turn off all water outlets and faucets. The pressure reading should be between 40 psi- 80 psi. If the gauge shows a psi reading of 150 and above, then the cause of the leak could be high pressure. If the water pressure is normal and the leak is persistent, then high water pressure is not the cause of the leak.

If you get a high-pressure reading, then you could be dealing with a closed plumbing system issue. This means that when the water is heated, the pressure increases as it should. But with nowhere to go, the valves open to relieve the pressure. Luckily, this can be solved by installing an expansion tank that gives the pressure an outlet other than a pressure relief valve.

Although rare, your water heater’s pressure relief valve could be leaking as a result of excessively high temperatures. However, the water has to be near the boiling point. To check the water temperature, ensure you turn on the hot water faucet. Run the water for one minute and use a meat thermometer to take the temperature reading. The temperature should be around 120 degrees. If more than this, then you need to have the water heater checked. The water temperature would need to be close to 212 degrees to set off the relief valve.

While this is an uncommon occurrence, it is not far-fetched. Your technician could have used a pressure valve for another appliance since they have the same function. However, these other pressure relief valves are set to go off at a lower psi. For instance, boiler pressure valves go off at 30 psi. If installed in a water heater, you are likely to get leaks immediately after installation. As such, if you have had your water heater for years and only experienced the leaks after a long period, then this is an unlikely cause of the leak.

A slight leak may occur if your water heater’s pressure relief valve has not been opened for a while, say a few years. While this leak is normal and may not be an indicator of a problem with the water heater system, you may need to replace the valve if the leak becomes more serious. It is cheaper to replace the entire valve than to repair it and have to deal with the same problem later on.

A leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve could also be caused by a faulty pressure relief valve. While pressure relief valves barely break down, excessive wear and improper installation can cause extensive damage. Unfortunately, a faulty pressure valve can not be repaired and must be replaced. However, the cost of pressure valves is affordable and ranges around $30.

Know your water heater and how it functions– Water heaters can be intimidating, especially for people with less technical know-how.  Understand what every part of the system plays in heating water such as the water shutoff valve, drain valve, thermostat, and pressure relief valve. This eases the maintenance routine and ensures you have a fair understanding of any malfunctions.

Insulate the pipes and the water heater– By insulating both the cold water and hot water pipes, you get to prevent condensation while also reducing heat loss. Also, insulating the water heater helps to keep water hot when surrounded by cold air.

Carry out regular maintenance– Inspect your water heater monthly, ensuring that all valves and pipes are in good shape. This also helps you catch corrosion and leaks early enough before they turn out to be bigger problems. And every year, carry out a water heater flush. Given that you cannot pinpoint all problems, have a qualified technician inspect the system annually.

Regardless of the possible cause of a leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve, please contact a qualified plumber as soon as possible. And if you think it’s a problem that you can solve without getting help, ensure you have a qualified plumber confirm that the system is performing optimally after. Water heater issues should not be taken lightly as they can cause more issues, even explosions.

The pressure relief valve on your water heater is an essential component to providing year-round comfort and keeping you and your family safe. Without this component, your water heater could overheat—causing it to break down. View our tips to become familiar about how this relief valve works and how to spot common issues.

You will find a water heater pressure relief valve on just about every standard hot water heater. Once the pressure and/or temperature inside your water heater gets too high, this component relieves the excess pressure. This decrease helps the temperature to return to a safe and stable level. The relief valve also prevents water leaks and keeps the water pressure from getting too low.

A valve is a one-way pipe that allows elements to pass through it. Here’s how a water pressure relief valve works: when the internal temperature of your water heater increases to a certain point, the appliance will naturally expand.

This expansion, however, should be limited. When the temperature gets too high, the relief valve opens to expel excess hot water and steam from the water heater so it doesn’t overheat.

You should always know where to find the pressure relief valve on your water heater in the case of an emergency. This device is typically located on the top or side of the appliance and is attached to an upward-pointing discharge tube.

If your water heater’s pressure relief valve has gone bad, you’ll probably know it. Here are the five most common signs that you need to repair or replace this device.

The most obvious and dangerous sign that your water heater pressure relief valve has gone bad is if it causes flooding in your home. If you experience this problem, cut off the water supply and have a professional come out to fix it.

Two common water heater sounds are rattling and whistling, both of which result from built-up steam that can’t escape the unit. If the steam can’t escape properly, that means the pressure relief valve isn’t working.

As the water heater pressure relief valve ages, it can start to corrode and make the water in your unit dirty. If this becomes a consistent problem, have a technician take a look at the valve. You’ll likely need to clean, repair, or replace it.

Since the pressure relief valve removes excess hot water from your unit, it will naturally leak some water from time to time. But if it leaks excessively and often, you’ll need to take a look at the valve.

While it’s normal for some water to leak from the pressure relief valve, the unit itself should never leak water. This can happen when the valve doesn’t properly relieve pressure from the unit and, in response, the tank ruptures.

If you’re looking for safe, reliable, and high-quality water heater repair and water heater installation services in the Northern Virginia area, call our team of technicians by phone at (703) 543-9649. With 50 years of experience in the HVAC and plumbing industries, we have become the trusted choice for achieving premium home comfort. In addition, our team of licensed plumbers offer other types of plumbing services such as sink installation, sump pump repair, gas line installation, and sewer line replacement. Our team of technicians won’t let you down. Schedule an appointment with one of our technicians today.

So your water heater is leaking from the top? Well, first off, relax. A leak at the top of your water heater is typically a much easier (and cheaper) fix than a leak at the bottom of your tank. But only if you find and fix the leak quickly!

Note: Turn off the water supply to the heater and dry the area as much as possible. You might need to let it sit for a while for water to seep out of small crevices around the connections. This will allow you to see the direction from which the water is coming when you turn the water back on. With slow leaks and standing water around the connections, you may not be able to see where the water is coming from.

If you have a gas water heater, turn the gas valve to the OFF position. This valve is located on the water heater itself. You’ll also want to make sure that the ball valve on the gas piping connected to the heater is turned at a 90-degree angle (perpendicular to the piping).

Note: You will have to relight the pilot light once the leak is fixed and you are ready to use the water heater again. Follow the manufacturer’s lighting instructions in the owner’s manual (some models may have these instructions on the side of the water heater).

If you have an electric water heater, you’ll shut the power off at the electrical panel. Just look for a two-pole breaker labelled “water heater” and turn it to the OFF position.

Note: Before restoring power to an electric water heater, make sure that the tank is completely full of water. Otherwise, you can damage the heating elements inside the tank. The easiest way to do this is to turn the water valve on to the water heater then open the hot side of the bathtub valve and let it run full blast for a couple of minutes. This will remove any air within the water heater tank, eliminating any chance of damage to the heating elements.

This valve delivers water to your water heater to be heated. If the valve sits directly over your heater and has gone bad, it will drip water onto the top of the tank.

Check all the connections on the top of the water heater. If any connection, such as the hot and cold water valves, is loose, it will leak water. Look for corroded parts (either in the form of rust buildup or a whitish powder substance or both) as this is a sign of leakage.

Your water heater’s T&P relief valve (temperature and pressure relief valve), is a safety component that releases extremely hot water when your tank exceeds the preset temperature or pressure limits. Depending on your water heater model, this valve could be located on the side or the top of your water heater.

If your valve is located on the top of your water heater (like in the picture below), check to see where it’s leaking from. Two places it may be leaking from include:

Your anode rod is a long, thin rod that attracts all the corrosive elements in the water in order to prevent your water heater tank from corroding. But if the anode rod corrodes and isn’t replaced quickly, water will bubble up and leak through the port seen in the picture below.

Many water heaters have an expansion tank installed on or over the top of them. This is a secondary safety device that absorbs excess hot water that occurs during the heating process.

The air valve on the opposite end of the threaded connection (water should never come out of this valve as it is supposed to be the “dry” side of the expansion tank that has only pressurized air in it)

If you notice that the water seems to be coming from the tank itself, there’s likely a tiny crack or hole in the top of the water heater. Unfortunately, that means the inner tank is corroding from the inside out and you’ll need to replace it as soon as possible. Often, if the tank is leaking, you’ll also see water bubbling up from the anode rod port.

If your cold water inlet valve is leaking, try tightening the nut that holds the handle in place. Use a wrench and turn the nut counter-clockwise. If the leak doesn’t stop, the valve itself may need to be replaced. Have a professional look at the valve to determine your best solution.

If a pipe fitting is loose and leaking water, you can try tightening the fitting with a wrench. But watch out for signs of corrosion. If the pipe is rusting, it may need to be replaced. If this is the case, you’ll need a professional to handle the job.

If your T&P relief valve is leaking from its base where it screws into the water heater, it needs to be replaced. If you’re attempting a DIY T&P relief valve replacement, follow these instructions. If there is water leaking from the piping attached to the T&P relief valve and also from the open end of the pipe, there’s most likely too much pressure in the water heater or the water is too hot. Have a professional inspect your tank to determine the issue.

If water is bubbling up and leaking from the anode rod port, you’ll need to call a professional immediately as this could mean your tank is about to burst. Why? Well, the bubbling water means that the anode rod has corroded and needs to be replaced. And once the anode rod rusts away, corrosive elements in the water will start eating away at the inner lining of your tank. Depending on how long your anode rod has corroded away, you may need to replace your water heater altogether.

If the expansion tank is leaking, verify the point of origin of the leak. If the source of the leak is the threaded connection, simply remove it from its connection point, apply some thread sealer and thread it back into place tightening it down firmly. If it’s leaking from any other point on the expansion tank, it will have to be replaced and this should be done by a professional as the pressure within the tank needs to be properly set in order for it to operate properly.

If the tank itself is leaking, you’ll need to call a professional to replace your tank immediately. The longer you wait to replace the tank, the higher the chance of the tank bursting and flooding your home.

Being able to locate the pressure relief valve on your water heater is important. It’s the part of the machine which prevents the Temperature and Pressure from climbing to dangerous levels, which is why it’s sometimes called the T&P valve. Occasionally testing the valve or at least knowing what to look out for in case it’s the cause of any issues could save you a lot of pain and worry.

The squat ‘T’ shape of these metallic valves reminds some people of the head of a garden hose. One end is attached to the water heater. The end opposite to that has a knob or lever which could be used to manually open the valve. A pipe comes out of the third end.

No matter what kind of water heater you have, the pressure valve will be located either on the top or side of the unit. Most likely, it will be near the electric supply or hot water output tube.

Don’t confuse it with the drain valve, which is used to empty the water out of the heater. The T&P valve should be the only faucet with a long tube coming out of it and pointing down. That is the discharge pipe.

Most T&P valves are calibrated to automatically open if the heater’s internal pressure exceeds 150 psi or if the temperature exceeds 210℉. This prevents the unit from exploding. When the valve opens, hot air and water go down the discharge tube. If you notice the valve leaking or warm water pooling around your heater, consider calling a plumber. Most plumbers recommend replacing the valves at least every two years.

You could also opt to test it on your own before calling a plumber. Take care to wear protective clothing like closed-toed shoes and gloves. Placing a bucket under the discharge pipe, you could manually open the valve by using its knob/lever. Wait for about three seconds and abruptly let go of the handle. If it fails to shut itself off completely, it is likely broken.

With these guidelines you shouldn’t have to hunt out your water heater’s user manual for the pressure relief valve. Replacing a relief valve can be a tricky procedure best left to the professionals. If you live in the Triangle area and want help from professionals with four generations of experience call Acme Plumbing at

A leaking water heater can indicate several problems. It can be something as simple as a loose connection, or more serious such as a corroded water tank.

A couple of the most obvious places to start is with the pressure-relief valve and the drain valve. The pressure-relief valve is located at the top of the water heater, while the drain valve is connected towards the bottom.

It’s quite common for water to be dripping from the temperature-pressure relief valve, which is designed to release water when it senses too much pressure. This pressure can be caused by the temperature dial being set too high, by the water pressure connected through your home’s water main, or by valves that reduce water pressure in your water supply system.

In some cases, the temperature-pressure relief valve may be faulty. Replacing it will solve the problem. A fully functional relief valve is necessary to prevent excessive buildup of steam that could cause the water heater tank to explode. A reputable plumber can fix it quickly.

Drips from the water heater drain valve can often be handled by tightening the drain valve. If it’s defective and can’t be tightened, it needs to be replaced.

When you see condensation drips, it often occurs when the tank is filled with cold water, or during colder seasons. It may disappear once the water has had a chance to warm up. If you see condensation on gas water heaters, it can also come from the vent. Ensure there aren’t any obstructions. If so, the flue should be cleaned out. A water heater professional can help you clean it out.

If you find your water heater is leaking from the bottom, there"s a good chance it"s a serious problem. A pool of water underneath your water heater can often be one of the first signs you notice of trouble. This is a common place to find a leak and should be addressed as soon as possible.

There are several issues that could cause your water heater to leak. A few are fixable. This article will help you identify the problem and give you step-by-step instructions on how to troubleshoot and resolve your leaking water heater.

The temperature and pressure relief valve is designed to release pressure if the water gets too hot, or there"s too much pressure inside the tank. The T&P valve is equipped with a discharge tube that runs from the valve to the floor. The tube is in place to make sure that any water that leaks from the valve is safely directed downwards, towards the floor, rather than spraying outwards and causing injuries.

If you notice a puddle of water at the bottom of your hot water tank, check the bottom of the discharge tube for moisture. If you find water, the problem is most likely the temperature and pressure relief valve.

The T&P valve is either faulty or there"s too much pressure in the tank. This article will show you how to test the valve. If the issue is the T&P valve you"ll typically be able to fix the problem by either replacing the valve or calling a plumber to deal with the internal pressure problem.

Since the T&P valve is a safety device on your water heater, you should fix this problem as soon as possible. Watch the video in step 3 to learn how to replace the Temperature and Pressure valve.

Every water heater has a drain valve located at the bottom of the tank. This valve is used to drain the tank of water in order to perform maintenance or to replace the water heater.

If the leak is coming from the nozzle, the drain valve may simply not be completely closed. Occasionally something will hit the handle on the drain valve and cause a small leak. Before assuming that the valve is faulty, first try tightening the knob by hand.

If the nozzle continues to drip, the drain valve is faulty and will need to be replaced. Since this isn"t a safety issue, you could screw a brass garden hose capon to the end of the valve to stop the leak. This will buy you some time until you"re able to swap it out with a new one.

It"s a good idea to purchase a water sensor alarm to alert yo