water heater safety valve leaking brands

It’s never a good sign when you find water on the floor around your water heater. But before you panic, it’s important to figure out where it’s coming from.

Upon further investigation, if you find the water is being discharged from a small tube that comes out of the top or side of the unit, runs down the side of the tank, and ends near the ground, then the source is likely the temperature pressure relief valve, or relief valve, for short.

The relief valve is an important safety feature on the water heater. If the water inside the unit gets too hot (usually above 210 degrees) or pressure builds up too high (above 150 psi), the water heater can become damaged or even explore.

A good solution to this risk is the relief valve. If at any point the temperature or pressure reaches an unsafe level, the water heater triggers the relief valve to open and release water out of the tank until the temperature and pressure return to normal.

Both circumstances should be taken very seriously. If the relief valve is needed frequently, that means there’s an issue with your water heater that is causing unsafe temperatures or pressure.

On the other hand, if the relief valve is stuck or has another problem, it needs to be fixed or replaced right away so it can do its job properly when necessary.

If water is coming out of the relief valve of your water heater, don’t ignore it. Bring in the expert team at Pratt Plumbing to inspect your water heater to make sure you don’t have a potentially dangerous situation in your home. To schedule an appointment, call (806) 373-7866 today.

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

Our Pressure Relief Valve was "dripping" when heater was on gas or electric didn"t matter which. I was set to replace the Pressure and Temperature Valve as the dripping water was corroding everything steel in the compartment. Had been doing it for some time before I noticed small amount of water dripping from cover outside. Got the Suburban manual out to find PN of relief valve. While reading the manual, I found this bit of info.

"You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater"s P & T valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping from the P & T valve does not always mean the P & T valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a RV is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P & T valve, the valve will relieve the excess pressure.

One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design. However, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. "

"Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping of the P & T valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion."

It took years to happen to see water dripping from outside water heater panel. In that time of weeping/dripping water had corroded everything under the P & T valve. Our gas burner parts are so rusted they are unsafe to use. Sure wish I"d have known this a couple years ago. As for a water accumulator tank, our last SOB had one, (and never had this problem) but don"t recall hearing of them in AB"s. If you haven"t removed your water heater outside cover lately, maybe you should.

A leaking water heater can indicate several problems. It can be something as simple as a loose connection, or more serious such as a corroded water tank.

A couple of the most obvious places to start is with the pressure-relief valve and the drain valve. The pressure-relief valve is located at the top of the water heater, while the drain valve is connected towards the bottom.

It’s quite common for water to be dripping from the temperature-pressure relief valve, which is designed to release water when it senses too much pressure. This pressure can be caused by the temperature dial being set too high, by the water pressure connected through your home’s water main, or by valves that reduce water pressure in your water supply system.

In some cases, the temperature-pressure relief valve may be faulty. Replacing it will solve the problem. A fully functional relief valve is necessary to prevent excessive buildup of steam that could cause the water heater tank to explode. A reputable plumber can fix it quickly.

Drips from the water heater drain valve can often be handled by tightening the drain valve. If it’s defective and can’t be tightened, it needs to be replaced.

When you see condensation drips, it often occurs when the tank is filled with cold water, or during colder seasons. It may disappear once the water has had a chance to warm up. If you see condensation on gas water heaters, it can also come from the vent. Ensure there aren’t any obstructions. If so, the flue should be cleaned out. A water heater professional can help you clean it out.

The pressure relief valve on your water heater is an essential component to providing year-round comfort and keeping you and your family safe. Without this component, your water heater could overheat—causing it to break down. View our tips to become familiar about how this relief valve works and how to spot common issues.

You will find a water heater pressure relief valve on just about every standard hot water heater. Once the pressure and/or temperature inside your water heater gets too high, this component relieves the excess pressure. This decrease helps the temperature to return to a safe and stable level. The relief valve also prevents water leaks and keeps the water pressure from getting too low.

A valve is a one-way pipe that allows elements to pass through it. Here’s how a water pressure relief valve works: when the internal temperature of your water heater increases to a certain point, the appliance will naturally expand.

This expansion, however, should be limited. When the temperature gets too high, the relief valve opens to expel excess hot water and steam from the water heater so it doesn’t overheat.

You should always know where to find the pressure relief valve on your water heater in the case of an emergency. This device is typically located on the top or side of the appliance and is attached to an upward-pointing discharge tube.

If your water heater’s pressure relief valve has gone bad, you’ll probably know it. Here are the five most common signs that you need to repair or replace this device.

The most obvious and dangerous sign that your water heater pressure relief valve has gone bad is if it causes flooding in your home. If you experience this problem, cut off the water supply and have a professional come out to fix it.

Two common water heater sounds are rattling and whistling, both of which result from built-up steam that can’t escape the unit. If the steam can’t escape properly, that means the pressure relief valve isn’t working.

As the water heater pressure relief valve ages, it can start to corrode and make the water in your unit dirty. If this becomes a consistent problem, have a technician take a look at the valve. You’ll likely need to clean, repair, or replace it.

Since the pressure relief valve removes excess hot water from your unit, it will naturally leak some water from time to time. But if it leaks excessively and often, you’ll need to take a look at the valve.

While it’s normal for some water to leak from the pressure relief valve, the unit itself should never leak water. This can happen when the valve doesn’t properly relieve pressure from the unit and, in response, the tank ruptures.

If you’re looking for safe, reliable, and high-quality water heater repair and water heater installation services in the Northern Virginia area, call our team of technicians by phone at (703) 543-9649. With 50 years of experience in the HVAC and plumbing industries, we have become the trusted choice for achieving premium home comfort. In addition, our team of licensed plumbers offer other types of plumbing services such as sink installation, sump pump repair, gas line installation, and sewer line replacement. Our team of technicians won’t let you down. Schedule an appointment with one of our technicians today.

This article explains hot water thermal expansion that can cause leaks, drips, or discharges from pressure relief valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, or TP valves found on heating boilers, water heaters.

Watch out: a dripping or frequently spilling T&P valve is dangerous because those very leaks can eventually cause the valve to clog and then to fail to open when it should.

See HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE - for an explanation of just how much pressure increase to expect when heating water. In explaining why the relief valve on a water heater may be dripping, American Water Heater Co. [1] explains:

Note: While a 125 psi pressure relief valve on cold water supply piping is fine to protect piping from rupturing, if building incoming water pressures are too high, rather than relying just on a relief valve (wasting water) we prefer to install a pressure reducing/control valve at the building entering water supply piping. Limit incoming water pressure to 60 psi at a typical one or two story residential home.

Watts (2011) suggests two methods for testing for thermal expansion of hot water as the cause of a TP valve drip. The text below is adapted from that source.

If the TPR valve is leaking due to thermal expansion of hot water, simply opening a water faucet or fixture anywhere in the plumbing system will immediately stop the drip.

That"s because opening the hot water faucet reduces the system pressure back to normal operating levels - we are no longer heating water in a "closed" piping and tank system.

Why would opening either a hot or cold water faucet work? Because when no water is running, the entire plumbing system is "closed" - unless there is an expansion tank already installed on the hot water heating system to accommodate thermal expansion, heating water in the water cylinder (water heater for Yanks) causes an increase in system pressure.

Install a pressure gauge on a convenient hose bib such as at the washing machine hook-up or if weather permits, outdoors. Install & use the pressure gauge to monitor system water pressure over at least a full 24-hour period. You don"t have to sleep by it.

If you select a pressure gauge with a re-settable "telltale" needle, the gauge"s re-settable indicator will indicate the highest pressure that has been reached by the water system since the water pressure test gauge was installed.

SeeMEASURE WATER SYSTEM PRESSURE & PRESSURE MAXIMUM for tips on how to make or buy an inexpensive recording-type water pressure test gauge for this purpose.

where we describe both hot water expansion tanks and hot water expansion relief valves designed to handle thermal water pressure increases and thus to stop dripping TP valves.

Watch out: get advice from a licensed plumber and your local water supplier. Never remove or plug a leaky pressure/temperature relief valve on a water heater - doing so risks dangerous or even fatal

See RELIEF VALVE LEAK DUE TO EXPANSION TANK where in a series of steps a homeowner figures out that a leaky TPR valve is due to the failure of the internal bladder of an expansion tank attached to the boiler.

If the building water pressure gauge reading is ever found at 80 psi or higher, you will want to install a water pressure regulator at the point where water supply enters the building.

If your building already has a water pressure gauge installed, it may be defective or it may be set too high. The articles listed just below discuss how to adjust a water pressure regulator:

An alternative to installing or changing a water pressure regulator when building water pressure is occasionally 80 psi or higher is the installation of an expansion tank to temporarily absorb that pressure increase.

Proper use of an expansion tank can help avoid unnecessary opening of the pressure/temperature relief valve on a hot water heating tank or a hot water heating boiler.

You go through alot of effort to explain how heated water expands and the resulting increase in pressure. All that is well and good for theory. In a domestic (North American) water supply system, to the best of my knowlege there is nothing to prevent the expanding water/pressure from the hot water heater from just backing up into the supply plumbing and hence the water pressure in the hot water heater would NEVER exceed the supply pressure. Or is there a required one way valve somewhere in the system I am not aware of say in the hot water heater?

Domestic water systems in most cities are required to have a backflow preventer or check valve on the system. So when no water is being run the system is in effect closed.

My original interest and intent was to show that the actual expansion in volume from heating water is actually very small. Nevertheless, on some systems, the water heater can cause enough of a pressure increase that some installations include a small water heater expansion tank.

Where expanding hot water pressure is causing trouble the common solution is the installation of a small expansion tank, usually on the hot water supply line above the water heater, though it could go almost anywhere so long as it"s not isolated from the heater by a shutoff valve.

Thermal expansion occurs as domestic water is heated. Left unchecked, the resulting pressure increase can cause relief valve discharge and other potentially hazardous conditions. Therm-X-Trol® expansion tanks absorb this expanded water, keeping water pressure at a safe level.

Water heater manufacturers and plumbing codes require the installation of an expansion control device if a backflow preventor, pressure reducing valve or check valve is installed in the domestic supply line.

Watch out: a leaky relief valve on a water heater, heating boiler, or any other closed vessel is dangerous. Leaks ultimately can lead to relief valve clogging, failure, and worse, BLEVE EXPLOSIONS. Beginning at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS we describe all of the causes of and cures for leaky relief valves or TP valves.

ANSI BS 7074-1:1989, Application, selection and installation of expansion vessels and ancillary equipment for sealed water systems. Code of practice for domestic heating and hot water supply (British Standard)

This standard covers the test methods and performance requirements applicable for waterheater supply shutoff valve with a thermal expansion control valves for use on closed plumbing systems.

This European Standard specifies, dimensions, materials and performance requirements (including methods of test) for expansion valves, of nominal sizes from DN 15 to DN 40, having working pressures 1) from 0,1 MPa (l bar) to 1,0 MPa (10 bar).Expansion valves are intended for fitting to the cold water supply of storage water heaters, having a maximum distribution temperature of 95 °C, for all energy sources.

Expansion valves do not control the temperature and alone does not constitute the protection required for storage water heaters. Expansion valves limit pressure, in the water heaters to what they are fitted, that is produced by thermal expansion of the water .NOTE : The use of the device specified in this Standard does not override the need to use controls (e.g. thermostats and cut-outs) which act directly on the power sources of water heaters.

"THERM-X-TROL® Water Heater Expansion Tanks", [web page] Amtrol,1400 Division Road, West Warwick RI USA 02983, Tel: 800-426-8765, Website: www.amtrol.com, retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/thermxtrol.html

"THERMAL EXPANSION TANKS for POTABLE WATER, Installation & Operation Instructions" [PDF], Models ST-5 through ST-201V & Models T-5 through T-12, Amtrol, Op. Cit., retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/thermxtrol/9015087_06_16_Thermal_Expansion_Tank_IO_.pdf

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

Similar products manufactured by Watts are described at WATER HEATER THERMAL EXPANSION PRODUCTS - WATTS [PDF] https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Watts-Thermal-Expansion-Products.pdf

My hot water tank has a Thermal Expansion Control Valve installed on the cold water intake line (rather than an expansion tank). In the past 2-3 days, I have noticed that there is a small amount of water constantly draining out of this Valve/Tube.

The leakage is constant, even during/after a long hot shower, which presumably would drain a lot of the hot water out of the tank and temporarily stop any thermal expansion/condensation. It is important to note that the T&P valve on the water heater itself is fine, there is no leak or release of pressure/water happening there.

(Why else would it still leak when the hot water tank is being drained and cold water is entering the tank?). Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this? I"m pretty sure I should be calling in for a repair, but unsure how urgent. (Am I at risk of a BLEVE explosion given the leak is constant, even when the tank should not be up to temp/pressure and even the pipe between the tank and the valve feels cold?).

It is possible on SOME water heaters to set the temperature above 210°F (99°C) but in my experience that would be unusual - you"d have probably scalded everyone using the hot water system.

1. It is already telling us that (usually) there is an unsafe condition such as pressure too high (water tank can blow up in a BLEVE explosion) or temperature too high (someone can be scalded - burned)

2. If it"s dripping just because the valve itself is old and defective the risk is that scale clogs the valve, it stops relieving, and then you"re missing a critical life-safety device.

the hot water heater has been shut down about one year , I lit the polite then went back a few hours later when I noticed the pressure relieve valve was spraying water out. so I shut the gas off. not sure what"s going on. ?

Continue reading at HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS for a solution to thermal expansion leaks at relief valves on water heaters, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1] "Residential Electric Water Heater Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide", American Water Heater Co., October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source: americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf [copy on file] [Technical review requested 1/25/2011]

[3] Pounds of lime deposited vs. temperature and hot water usage: see Purdue Bulletin #74 (also provided by A.O. Smith in the article below). Purdue"s chart shows the number of pounds of lime deposited per year as a function of the water usage in gallons per day, with an assumed 10 grains of water hardness.

[4] "When, Why, and How to Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Glass-Lined Water Heaters (for non glass-lined tanks, consult water heater manufacturer)" PDF provided by A.O. Smith Water Products Company - hotwater.com/lit/training/4800r9.pdf 800-433-2545 - 01/07/2009.

[6] A.O. Smith"s Form No. 4778* All about Deliming Coil-Type/Tube-Type Commercial Water Heaters and Hydronic Boilers *Normally supplied when ordering Part No. 4930 Motorized Deliming Pump Kit

[7] "Building Owner Water Heater Safety Notice", Building Department, City of Colleyville TX, web search 09/24/2010, original source: http://www.colleyville.com/dmdocuments/Building%20

Water heater safety is imperative to the occupants of a building or structure. If improperly installed, water heaters can be detrimental to the structure, as well as being potentially fatal to its occupants. The proper installation of a water heater is so important that according to Texas State Law all water heater installations must be inspected by a state licensed plumbing inspector.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

The temperature and pressure relief valve (sometimes called a tpr valve or tp valve) helps regulate the pressure and temperature of the water inside the tank. Both can be extremely dangerous if too high.

The Temperature and pressure relief valve on all water heaters automatically opens when they sense an excessive amount of pressure or heat in the water heater tank, alleviating any damage they might have caused. Water will leak through the valve and discharge tube after all excess air escapes from the tank.

Another function of the temperature and pressure relief valve is to release water from the tank if it gets too hot.Thermostats and temperature controlscan go out in time. When the water in our hot water tank gets to a dangerous level, we rely on the pressure relief valve to expel it from the tank and through the discharge tube before it can give us 3rd-degree burns.

If you have questions about whether your temperature and pressure relief valve is leaking or if other problems are causing it to release water, call Hackler Plumbing today. Our professionals will be able to give you the answers you need after a thorough investigation of your water heater temperature and pressure relief valve.

The best way to prevent a faulty temperature and pressure relief valve is to maintain it regularly. The pressure relief valve must work right as it is the most crucial safety feature on the water heater.

Preventive maintenance is the best way to care for a water heater. These are the best two ways to check and maintain your temperature and pressure relief valve.

Check for water leaking from the valve or attached pipe. A water leak is often a sign something is wrong with the pressure relief valve. A damaged rubber gasket or faulty lifting handle can allow water to seep through the valve. Call Hackler Plumbing today if your temperature and pressure relief valve is damaged.

Test the valve annually by lifting the handle and relieving pressure from the water heater tank. Every water heater needs flushing annually as well. We shouldn’t have any surprises with a faulty temperature and pressure relief valve as long as we regularly maintain our water heater correctly.

The temperature and pressure relief valve is a safety feature we need to work on any water heater. Many components work together on a water heater so that our water is at the perfect temperature and comes out with just the right amount of pressure.

The temperature and pressure release valve protect us when any components on the water heater go out. It’s important to remember that a pressure valve is made to discharge water from the tank if there are any issues. Figuring out if it’s leaking or not can be confusing.

Let’s say we change the temperature and pressure valve and it continues to leak after replacement. Now we know there is a more serious problem with our water heater and we wasted all that time and money.

There is a lot more to a water heater than meets the eye. One of the most common issues inside a water heater tank is thermal expansion. The professionals at Hackler Plumbing can tell if thermal expansion is occurring in your system and what you can do to solve the problem.

Water expands when it gets heated. Our water heater tank and plumbing lines are a “closed” system if a check valve or pressure regulator is on the water supply for the house.

When the water expands in any closed system, it will have nowhere to go. When the temperature builds up in the tank, so does the pressure. The temperature and pressure relief valve work to alleviate this excess build-up to keep our water heater from exploding. In some cases, serious measures will need to be taken to handle the extra pressure caused by thermal expansion in a closed system.

Adding an expansion tank to a closed system can completely stop a leaking T&P valve. If you’ve replaced your temperature and pressure relief valve, but it’s still leaking, one of our professionals at Hackler Plumbing will be happy to inspect your plumbing system.

They can determine whether or not you have a check valve or pressure regulator installed and help solve your temperature and pressure relief valve problem. They will even be able to install an expansion tank if they discover you do have a closed system.

It doesn’t matter where the expansion tank is installed, as long as the water has somewhere to go when the thermal expansion occurs. Call Hackler Plumbing today if you think you require an expansion tank installation. We are your local McKinney plumbing company serving the surrounding Metroplex area and are here to fix all water heater-related problems and can performtankless water complete installations.

There are two scenarios,either the relief valve is working properly or it isn’t. Check the pressure. If it is too high the valve is doing its job and you will need to install a regulator. Does this problem happen only when hot or when cold as well? If only when hot and has been sitting unused for at least a few hours an expansion tank will help. If it is hot and leaking, open a hot water faucet and let it run for a few seconds, close it and see if it is still leaking. If that temporarily solved the problem an expansion tank will help. If it didn’t help it is either too hot or too much pressure.

Most homeowners are capable of doing a lot of their It"s technically not a pressure relief valve (or reducing). Those are installed on the mainline of the house. On a water heater, it"s called a T&P valve (temperature and pressure) or a pop-off valve.

The T&P valve serves an essential function as a safety feature. It offers your water heater built-in protection against high pressure and hot temperatures. It"s pretty standard for the pop-off valve to need replacement during the life of your water heater. The telltale sign that it needs replacement is when you see it dripping or leaking water. When you need a new valve, try one of the following options:

Drain a little water from the tank. It only needs to fall below the pop-off valve, wherever that resides. If you have a top mount configuration, you only need to drain a little bit. For side mounts, you probably need to drain about 10 gallons. You might take this opportunity to flush the water heater entirely, removing minerals and sediment in the tank. For a complete tutorial, read

Install the new T&P valve. Wrapping pipe thread tape around the threads of the valve, screw it into place. You should use a wrench, but you do not want to overtighten it.

Check for leaking. Fill the tank back up by opening the water supply valve back up. When the water level rises to the level of the new T&P valve, you can look for leaks.

Our best advice is don"t test the T&P valve. The reason is that the test requires you to flick the release lever. This action can cause an old valve to start leaking. Why rock the boat if it"s still working? Just give the T&P valve a thorough visual exam, looking for leaks, and call it good.

The beautiful thing about our tutorial guides here at PlumbersStock is that you can use our site to buy everything you need at discount prices. Check out all of our Bradford White. If you have any questions remaining about water heater pressure relief valve replacement, please contact us.

Q: Help! My hot water heater is leaking. After mopping up, I see more water starting to puddle but I can’t tell where it’s coming from. Do I need to call a plumber, or is it possible for me to fix the leaking water heater myself?

A: Water heaters can leak due to a number of problems, including loose valves, excessive pressure in the tank, or issues with the pipes that connect to the unit. And if your water heater is more than 10 years old, the leak is likely age-related—if that’s the case, it may be time to replace it. So while you might eventually need to call a plumber, depending on the location of the leak, there could be a simple DIY solution. Keep reading to find out the immediate steps to take, and then how to pinpoint the leak and remedy the problem.

If it’s a gas water heater, it will have a dial or an On/Off switch near the spot where the gas line connects. If it’s an electric water heater, locate your home’s electric service panel, and turn off the breaker labeled “Hot Water Heater” by switching it to the “Off” position.

You’ll find two plumbing pipes attached to the top of the water heater. One is the hot water pipe that supplies hot water to your faucets and the other is the cold water supply line. Only the cold pipe will have a shutoff valve; turn that valve to the Off position to stop cold water from flowing into the tank.

Water heater leaks often start out slow, just drip by drip, so it can be difficult to tell where the water is coming from. Check for wetness by running your fingers or a tissue around these three likely locations:the fittings on the pipes above the water heater,

around the temperature and pressure relief (TPR) valve. The TPR valve is located on the side of the tank, and it should have a copper tube that extends out a few inches and then turns downward to the floor. The bottom of the tube is open, and you should check there for wetness as well.

If water is coming from the cold water supply line and the hot water pipe, you may be able to stop the leak by tightening a loose-fitting with a wrench. This is possible if flex pipes, such as these 12-Inch Fluidmaster Braided Stainless Steel Connectors (available on Amazon), are attached between the water heater and your home’s main cold and hot water lines. Flex pipes are a common configuration, and they attach just as a garden hose would attach—a straightforward DIY fix for many homeowners. If the water pipes are solid copper, however, you will need to have a plumber repair it, because copper connections must be soldered in order to seal.

The pressure in a water heater tank depends on two things: the temperature of the water and the pressure of the water coming in from the cold water supply line. When the pressure in the tank builds to an unsafe level, the TPR valve, sometimes called a pop-off valve, opens to release the pressure. This valve—at the down-turned pipe you located earlier—is a safety mechanism designed to direct a scalding spray of water to the floor rather than the face of someone standing nearby.

If the leak is coming from around the valve itself or out of the bottom of the pipe, it could indicate that the water in the tank is too hot. Many manufacturers sell water heaters preset for 140° Fahrenheit, but the Department of Energy (DOE) suggests that 120° Fahrenheit is hot enough for most houses. The temperature control knob may or may not list actual degrees, but if not, turn it from “High” to “Medium” to reduce the temperature in the tank, and also reduce pressure, potentially stopping the leak.

If the water temperature isn’t too hot, the pressure in the cold water supply line could be too high. The pressure of the water that flows into your house is controlled at the outside water meter, and if it’s 100 pounds per square inch (psi) or higher, it could be creating excessive pressure in the water heater. This can also cause water leakage from the TPR valve.

To test your water pressure, you’ll need a water pressure gauge, such as the Flow Doctor Water Pressure Test Gauge (available on Amazon), which is designed to attach to an outdoor spigot. Attach the gauge just as you would a garden hose, and make sure no other water faucets or appliances such as a dishwasher are running. Turn on the outdoor spigot and the gauge will display the pressure of the water. A psi of 80 is sufficient for most houses, but if yours is over 100, contact your municipal water authority and ask that the pressure be reduced.

If drips are coming from around the drain valve, it should be replaced without delay. While some choose to call a plumber at this point, dedicated DIYers may be able to handle the job. First, you must drain the water heater, by attaching a garden hose to the drain valve and then running the other end of the hose to a floor drain or a shower drain. Use a flathead screwdriver to open the valve so the water drains out through the hose. Once the water has drained, use an adjustable wrench to grip the drain valve and twist it counterclockwise—it should twist right out. Take it to the hardware store when to purchase a perfect match, and then install the new valve by twisting it clockwise into the drain valve hole until it’s snug.

If during your sleuthing, you determined the leak wasn’t coming from any of the above spots, the trouble is at the bottom of the tank. Over time, sediment can settle in the bottom of a hot water heater, eventually leading to rust that eats through the bottom of the tank. The rusting process can be slowed by regularly draining and flushing out the water heater, but if the bottom is already leaking, it’s time for a new water heater. Local building codes often do not allow homeowners to install new water heaters, because gas water heaters require the installation of a gas line, which must be done by a plumber. while electric models require direct wiring of the heater into the home’s service panel—a job for an electrician.

Most water heaters are tucked away in utility closets, basements, or garages where a leak can result in massive water damage before it’s noticed. To avoid this problem, consider putting a leak detector, such as Zircon’s Leak Alert (available on Amazon), on the floor near the water heater. At the first sign of a leak, the detector emits a loud signal to alert you. The Zircon detector can also be synced with your home’s Wi-Fi system to send an alert to your smartphone or tablet should a leak occur.

If your water heater’s tank is leaking from the bottom, your first reaction might be panic. No one wants to have to replace their water heater unexpectedly, and the majority of homeowners aren’t financially prepared to purchase a large appliance in an emergency. Luckily, water around the bottom of your water heater doesn’t always spell doom. There are a couple of common causes that could be resolved with a simple repair:

Your water heater has a drain valve that, true to its name, is used to drain the water from the tank when performing maintenance or repairs. If the drain valve is not completely closed, is loose, or is damaged, water will leak from it. This might look like a tank leak, but it is actually quite simple and inexpensive to repair.

A water heater’s temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) is a vital safety measure. Its job is to release pressure if a water heater gets too hot, or if too much pressure builds up inside the tank. It is located on top of the tank, but it uses a tube to route any water it discharges to the floor. If it is faulty, it may activate and discharge water even when your tank pressure is normal. Another scenario could be that your tank pressure is not normal, and something is causing your water heater to build up too much pressure. In this case, your T&P valve would be functioning normally.

If water is leaking from the bottom of the tank itself, this is bad news. Once a water heater’s tank is cracked or corroded enough to leak, it loses structural integrity and will not be able to manage internal pressure. The most common cause of internal tank leaks is failure to properly maintain your water heater. A water heater’s tank should be flushed to remove sediment every 6 months. If this is not done, sediment can build up inside the tank, eventually causing corrosion. These leaks will start small, but will continue to grow larger due to pressure. If you have an internal tank leak, you will need to replace your water heater.

All the knowledge above is well and good, but what should you actually do when you discover a pool of water around your water heater? Follow these simple steps to stop the leak and diagnose the issue:

The first thing you should do is turn it off. For electric water heaters, find your unit’s dedicated breaker on your electrical panel and turn it to the off position. For gas water heaters, simply find the on/off dial or switch on the water heater itself and turn it to off. You can also turn off the gas on a gas water heater. Look for a smaller lever towards the bottom of the heater. It may be red, blue, or yellow. Turn it to the OFF position.

Drain valve – Find your drain valve and visually inspect it to see if water is coming out of it. If so, ensure that it is tightly closed. If water continues leaking from the drain valve, the valve may be faulty or damaged and will need to be replaced. Call a trusted plumber to perform this repair.

T&P valve – Check the discharge tube from your T&P valve – if it is wet, it is most likely the source of the water. Call a plumber to check your water heater – they can replace a faulty T&P valve, or determine what is causing your unit to build up too much pressure. This is a safety issue, so don’t wait to address it!

Tank – If you determine that the leak is not coming from the drain valve or T&P valve, the tank is the most likely culprit. Leaks can start as pinholes, so it may be difficult to actually find the source. Contact a reliable plumber right away to inspect your water heater. They will be able to verify that your tank is leaking, and can talk you through your options for replacement.

If your water heater keeps leaking after you check that the drain valve is tightly closed, call a reliable plumbing company for water heater repair service. If it turns out to be a small issue, you will spend relatively little money to ensure that your water heater is sound and stop the leak. If it’s a more serious matter, a plumber can fix dangerous safety failures or help you replace your water heater.

If your water heater is leaking in Dallas, Texas, call Frymire Home Services for water heater repair. Our expert team can quickly diagnose your water heater and make repairs to stop the leak. In the event of tank failure, we can help youreplace your water heaterwith a new gas, electric, traditional, or tankless water heater.

For water heater repair and replacement in Dallas, count on the expert plumbers at Frymire Home Services. Call us at 469-346-4999 or contact us online today!

It can be all too easy to forget about your water heater when everything appears to be working correctly. However, a stuck or faulty pressure relief valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to reach dangerous levels — with potentially explosive results. Therefore, testing your water heater pressure relief valve should be at the top of your home maintenance checklist.

You don"t need to be a professional plumber to check your water heater"s safety mechanisms. With the right knowledge, even novice DIY-ers can test their water heater pressure relief valves.

A water heater pressure relief valve is exactly what it says on the tin: a safety mechanism that prevents excessive pressure from building up in your water heater"s tank. Without it, there would be a risk of the tank bursting and flooding your house. A bursting water tank can also cause serious injury and damage to your home"s structure, so keeping the pressure relief valve in good working order is essential.

Pressure inside your water tank occurs when the water expands and produces steam as it heats. The hotter the water, the greater the potential for high pressure. Although some pressure is normal and can escape through the pipes supplying your fixtures, the pressure relief valve activates when the pressure exceeds safe levels. It releases some hot water and steam until the pressure level normalizes.

A water heater pressure relief valve is a short, flat lever attached to a pipe running through the water heater. Its location varies depending on what water heater model you have, but you can usually find it above the tank or high up on one of the sides.

Sometimes, a water heater"s pressure relief valve can get stuck due to a build-up of deposits. Corrosion can also damage the valve and stop it from working correctly. A stuck or broken valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to exceed the safe limit, so it"s crucial to test it regularly.

You can test your water heater pressure relief valve by opening it slightly with a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Don"t force the valve open if you feel resistance. You"ll know that your valve is working properly if you can see or hear water and gas escaping. If you can"t see water escaping, or you can"t turn the valve easily, it"s time to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve. You should also call a plumber if you see signs that the valve is leaking, such as water pooling on the floor under the tank.

Sometimes, a water heater pressure relief valve will start leaking after you test it, even if the test shows that it"s working correctly. You can often solve this problem by gently opening and closing the valve a few times to remove any deposits stopping it from shutting. Call a plumber to check and repair the leak if this doesn"t work.

You should test your water heater pressure relief valve once or twice each year. The more often you check the valve, the higher the chances of detecting a problem early and preventing a costly leak or burst tank.

One of the most effective ways to prevent problems with your water heater"s pressure relief valve is to ensure that the drain line is installed correctly. It should angle downwards and match the valve"s exhaust port size to allow water to drain properly and prevent corrosion. It"s also essential to use a drain line made from heat-resistant material, like copper. You should call a plumber to replace the drain line if you"re concerned that your installation is incorrect.

Insulating the drain line can stop it from freezing in cold weather. A frozen drain line will stop the pressure release valve from functioning correctly, even if it"s otherwise in good condition.

When you open a water heater pressure relief valve, the water that drips out will be very hot. Therefore, it"s essential to wear protective gloves and eyewear and avoid opening the valve all the way. You may also wish to consider wearing protective clothing to protect your skin against burns.

You will need to replace your water heater pressure relief valve if it"s stuck or damaged. A plumber can tell you whether it"s best to repair the valve or replace it altogether. Furthermore, it"s wise to replace the valve every five years or so, especially if it hasn"t been tested recently.

On the side or top of your water heater tank is a valve connected to a metal or plastic discharge tube pointing downward. The valve is called a T&P valve, or TPR valve, for "temperature and pressure relief."

If all goes well, a TPR valve never gets used intentionally except during testing. But in the event of an emergency or malfunction, this valve is of critical importance. It can potentially prevent your water heater from exploding. Understanding how a T&P valve works will help you keep your water heater in tip-top shape and prevent possible damage to your home.

A T&P valve is a valve with an attached tube located on the outside of a water heater. The valve provides relief to the water heater if the pressure exceeds normal operating limits, usually 150 psi.

Mandated by all plumbing codes, the T&P valve relieves excess temperature and pressure in a water heater if either reaches a critical point. A water heater is a closed system, and thermal expansion is an inescapable fact of both normal and abnormal water heater functioning.

In a standard water heater, the water is heated by a gas burner or electric elements. As the water reaches temperatures between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, both the water and the water heater"s metal tank expand.

Some expansion is normal, but too much expansion is unsafe. When the temperature reaches 210 degrees or the pressure reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch), a properly functioning T&P valve opens and expels hot water and steam through the discharge tube.

When you purchase a water heater, the T&P valve generally comes pre-installed. A threaded inlet is welded onto the side of the tank. This inlet cannot be removed or replaced. The T&P valve is screwed clockwise onto that inlet.

Because the T&P valve is rarely used, mineral build-up can cause it to stiffen over time. This is a significant safety hazard because, in the event of a temperature or pressure spike, the T&P valve may not open as it should and the water heater might explode.

Water heater manufacturers recommend regular checking of the T&P valve. Wear closed-toe shoes to avoid scalding. Except for a bucket, no tools are required.

Before you begin, make sure you know where the shut-off valve of your tank is. It"s usually located on the cold water feed, on the right side inlet on top of the tank.

Release the lever and let it snap back to its original position. If the lever does not snap back into place, the valve is faulty and must be replaced.

In most cases, there are two problems you might have to address with the T&P valve: a valve that leaks by constantly dripping or a valve that sticks and doesn"t open and close properly.

When a T&P valve is leaking, it may be due to the valve not being properly seated in the threaded opening of the tank. This is especially likely if the leaking occurs immediately after an old valve is replaced. This can be remedied by shutting off the water heater and letting it cool down completely, then removing and rethreading the valve into the tank"s opening.

If the valve is leaking due to dirt or sediment trapped in the relief port, pull the metal spring lever back again and discharge water into the bucket. Once the lever snaps back again, if the water fails to stop completely, shut turn the gas valve to the off position and shut the water off to replace the valve.

A water heater that periodically discharges hot water and steam from the T&P valve may be set to a water temperature that is too high. Make sure that the water temperature setting is in the normal recommended range—about 120 degrees Fahrenheit—or no more than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

When stuck downward, the valve cannot provide relief if the system reaches maximum pressure. As a result, the water heater tank might rupture. When stuck in a fully extended position, the T&P valve will continually leak water down through the discharge tube, potentially flooding the home.

The stickiness of the valve can sometimes be remedied by simply opening and closing the lever several times. Jiggle the T&P valve by gently pulling the lever towards you. Much like jiggling a toilet handle, this action may be enough to unstick the valve. If this does not fix the problem, replace the valve.

However, some caution is necessary whenever working with a water heater, because the T&P valve can become damaged if the water heater has exceeded maximum pressure or temperature levels. If you suspect a pressure-related problem with your water heater tank, hire a licensed plumber to have the water heater inspected.

A water heater’s T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve leaking can be a tricky problem to fix. Any homeowner should understand why the T&P valve is leaking, and how it can be fixed.

It may be a good idea at this stage to give a quick overview on the function of the T&P valve. This valve will allow steam and water to escape when either the temperature or the pressure inside the water heater tank gets too high.

Although the name indicates that both high temperature and pressure will be relieved, most T&P valves in practice only relieve high pressure. This is simply due to the fact that the water’s temperature would need to rise to an incredibly high level to trigger the valve.

Without this valve, a water heater could turn into a bomb quietly sitting right inside your home. If the pressure were to rise to a level that’s not sustainable, the water heater may explode.

Although settings between different models and brands are different, the valve is typically set to open when the pressure goes higher than 150 psi or the temperature goes higher than 210°F. If the valve is set to different parameters, it may be intended for a different appliance (not a water heater).

The T&P valve will open if either the pressure or temperature is excessive. However, it is extremely unlikely that the valve will be triggered by high temperature, as the water would need to be close to boiling to trigger it. As this is however still a possibility, albeit unlikely, we need to cover it.

It is simple and straightforward to check the temperature of your water heater’s water. After turning on a hot water faucet and letting it run for about a minute until the water is hot, use a meat thermometer to measure the water’s temperature.

This temperature should be about 120°F. Although anything higher is dangerous, it won’t explain a faulty T&P valve. To set off the valve, the temperature needs to be close to 212°F.

Many people automatically assume that when the T&P valve is leaking it must be broken. This is however not always the case. A T&P valve constantly leaking may in fact mean that it is working as intended by relieving excess pressure from the tank.

The pressure in your water system should be between 40 and 80 psi while all water outlets and faucets are turned off. If the pressure is 150 psi or more, the pressure valve is probably leaking to relieve the excessive water pressure.

A closed plumbing system is usually the cause of excess pressure. When the water heater heats water, it causes the water to expand and this increases the pressure. In a closed system, the water can’t go anywhere and the T&P valve will open to relieve the pressure.

NOTE: For a further explanation about having a closed plumbing system, scroll down to: Hot Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve Leaking After Replacement

An excess pressure problem in a closed system can normally be solved by installing an expansion tank. This will allow the expanded hot water to flow into the expansion tank, preventing the buildup of pressure that has to be relieved via the T&P valve. This will enable the water heating process to work normally without the T&P valve constantly leaking.

Although this cause of T&P valve leakage is not very common, it is however still possible. There are other appliances, like for example boilers, that also use pressure relief valves.

Although those valves work the same as ones on water heaters, their pressure setting is much lower. Pressure valves for boilers are typically set for 30 psi, rather than the 150 psi typically used for water heater valves.

It is however very unlikely that a wrong valve would have been installed, as it would have leaked from the moment it was installed. If you have had some time between the water heater’s installation and when the valve started leaking, chances are high that the correct type of valve has been installed.

If a pressure relief valve has not opened for a number of years, it may leak slightly once it finally opens. This type of leak is normally not serious and it seldom progresses past a minor drip. If the problem does however become more serious, the whole valve will have to be replaced.

Damage resulting from years of non-use can unfortunately be difficult to fix. Although replacing it is only really needed if it is leaking badly, even minor dripping issues can be solved easily by replacing the valve. This will prevent you from wasting time and energy trying to repair an item that costs less than $20 to replace.

Another possibility is that the valve is faulty and has to be replaced. Although T&P valves are normally reasonably robust, excessive wear over time or improper installation can cause it to break down and start leaking.

Although it is technically possible to fix the valve, replacing it is by far the safest and easiest option. Replacement T&P valves typically cost less than $20, and replacing it is pretty straightforward as described below:

Tip: Although the video only describes using Teflon tape, we recommend that a thin coat of pipe dope be spread over the Teflon tape to ensure a watertight seal.

Identify and close the water shut-off valve on the cold water line entering the heater. It’s normally located directly above the water heater. This will either be a gate or ball valve.

First open the drain valve and then open any hot water faucet to release the vacuum in the tank. Put a bucket under the T&P valve’s discharge pipe and open the T&P valve. When water no longer exits from the T&P valve’s discharge pipe, close the drain valve and remove the hose.

Use a small wire brush to clean the inlet. Wrap Teflon tape around the new T&P valve’s threads in a clockwise direction. Optionally, use a thin coat of pipe dope over the Teflon tape to prevent leaks.

Wrap the threads of the T&P valve discharge pipe in Teflon tape before reattaching it. If this pipe had to be cut off, you’ll have to replace it with a pipe specifically rated for use with hot water. The glue used for this should also be rated for hot water use.

Once the discharge pipe has been installed and the T&P valve is tight, the cold water cut-off valve can be opened to fill the tank. Allow all air to exit through the hot water faucet before closing the hot water tap.

If none of the other possibilities described in this article work, replacing the temperature & pressure relief valve is probably the best solution. You may however prefer to contact a licensed plumber to replace the T&P valve.

In my opinion you should always have a drain pan under your water heater. Everybody has something in their basement or garage that they don’t want getting wet. So, better safe than sorry. However, code requirements are base upon where the water heater is installed. Usually, local codes don’t require drain pans in the