whirlpool gas oven safety valve quotation

So bought this gas valve and it’s been almost one month. Works like a charm. Previous parts I tried didn’t work(spark igniter and spark igniter board module). It seems this gas valve is a very common problem with these whirlpool models. I am hoping I get a good life from this used product.

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This Gas Valve is a replacement part for ovens. If the oven does not light, then this item may need to be replaced. Compatible with select Whirlpool brand models.Genuine Whirlpool Part

Whirlpool / Maytag oven safety valve. Low voltage oven valve for flat Norton ignitors. 3.0 - 3.3 volts. 3.3 - 3.6 amps. Adjustable orifice. Female terminals 3/8" tubing. ... More Info

Whirlpool / Maytag oven safety valve. Low voltage oven valve for flat Norton ignitors. 3.0 - 3.3 volts. 3.3 - 3.6 amps. Adjustable orifice. Female terminals 1/2" tubing. ... More Info

Frigidaire gas range oven safety valve. 3/8" inlet with 3/16" and 1/4" terminals. One of each size. 3203459, Y30128-35AF, 814412 ... More Info

Frigidaire gas range dual safety valve. 3/8" tubing inlet and lower outlet. Orifice hood upper outlet. The 5303208499 gas valve has the following numbers on the side: 0549A311962TNAT NC-4109-5 774111600012 Y-30172-2 ... It was made by Invens ... More Info

Whirlpool / Maytag oven safety valve. Low voltage oven valve for flat Norton ignitors. 3.0 - 3.3 volts. 3.3 - 3.6 amps. Adjustable orifice. Female terminals 3/8" tubing. ... More Info

Whirlpool / Maytag oven safety valve. Low voltage oven valve for flat Norton ignitors. 3.0 - 3.3 volts. 3.3 - 3.6 amps. Adjustable orifice. Female terminals 1/2" tubing. ... More Info

Exact Replacement Parts for Frigidaire gas range oven safety valve 3203459. 3/8" inlet with 3/16" and 1/4" terminals. One of each size. 3203459, Y30128-35AF, 814412 ... More Info

1. Pulled range out from its cabinet setting and turned off the gas and unplugged the electric cord. 2. Removed all knobs (and soft pads) to burners. 3. Removed curved cover that covers the burners gas valves, gas manifold and igniter harness. 4. Removed a part that could be referred to as a flange or riser that is attached to the top of the range front at the burner level which the top of the curved piece is attached to. 5.The igniter attachments to the gas valves come off by pulling them away from the valve. I pulled away the one for the grill. 6. With these parts removed, eye sight and 1/2" open end wrench access is given to where the gas valve is attached to the burner gas line. 7. Disconnected the valve from the burner line. 8.Removed the bracket that holds the valve in place, thus removing the valve. 9. Installed new valve and bracket and attached valve to burner line. 10. Reattached the igniter part to the valve, then attached the flange (#4), then the curved cover, then the burner knobs (and soft pads). 11.Reconnected the electric cord and opened the gas valve. 12 Pushed the range back into its cabinet place and pushed the "Cancel:" mark as directed by the digital read-out on the range"s back riser control panel. Checked for gas leak. None. It took a bit of scrutiny to see what to remove and in what sequence.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.