bath hot water safety valve free sample

Anti-scald valves, also known as tempering valves and mixing valves, mix cold water in with outgoing hot water so that the hot water that leaves a fixture is not hot enough to scald a person.

Unwanted temperature fluctuations are an annoyance and a safety hazard. When a toilet is flushed, for instance, cold water flows into the toilet’s tank and lowers the pressure in the cold-water pipes. If someone is taking a shower, they will suddenly feel the water become hotter as less cold water is available to the shower valve. By the same principle, the shower water will become colder when someone in the house uses the hot-water faucet. This condition is exacerbated by plumbing that’s clogged, narrow, or installed in showers equipped with low-flow or multiple showerheads. A sudden burst of hot water can cause serious burns, particularly in young children, who have thinner skin than adults. Also, a startling thermal shock – hot or cold – may cause a person to fall in the shower as he or she scrambles on the slippery surface to adjust the water temperature. The elderly and physically challenged are at particular risk.

Anti-scald valves mitigate this danger by maintaining water temperature at a safe level, even as pressures fluctuate in water supply lines. They look similar to ordinary shower and tub valves and are equipped with a special diaphragm or piston mechanism that immediately balances the pressure of the hot- and cold-water inputs, limiting one or the other to keep the temperature within a range of several degrees. As a side effect, the use of an anti-scald valve increases the amount of available hot water, as it is drawn more slowly from the water heater. Inspectors and homeowners may want to check with the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to see if these safety measures are required in new construction in their area.

Installation of anti-scald valves is typically simple and inexpensive. Most models are installed in the hot-water line and require a cold-water feed. They also require a swing check valve on the cold-water feed line to prevent hot water from entering the cold-water system. They may be installed at the water heater to safeguard the plumbing for the whole building, or only at specific fixtures.

The actual temperature of the water that comes out of the fixture may be somewhat different than the target temperature set on the anti-scald valve. Such irregularities may be due to long, uninsulated plumbing lines or defects in the valve itself. Users may fine-tune the valve with a rotating mechanism that will allow the water to become hotter or colder, depending on which way it’s turned. Homeowners may contact an InterNACHI inspector or a qualified plumber if they have further questions or concerns.

In summary, anti-scald valves are used to reduce water temperature fluctuations that may otherwise inconvenience or harm unsuspecting building occupants.

Year after year, your water heater serves an important role in your home. Your morning routine just wouldn’t be the same—or nearly as comfortable—without hot water. Yet, water heaters and their components do not last forever. Preventative maintenance is the key to ensuring that your water heater continues to safely provide your home with hot water. In this article, we’ll review a critical safety component of your water heater, the water heater pressure-relief valve.

If your water heater has stopped working, fill out the form to schedule a free VIP plumbing inspection here in the Chicago area. Our plumbers are available 24/7 to help you and your home!

The name is actually quite literal. It’s a valve that relieves excess pressure in the water heater tank. By doing so, it can prevent excess pressure buildup that has the potential to cause a tank burst and flood your home. It’s an unheralded but essential safety mechanism for your water heater.

As your water heater heats up the water in the tank, the water expands and steam is generated. The greater the heat, the more expansion that occurs. This expansion puts pressure on the exterior walls of the tank, but this is to be expected. Some degree of excess pressure escapes through the water pipes connected to the water heater. In the event that it cannot, the pressure-relief valve triggers. By releasing some of the hot water and air, the valve lowers the pressure back down to safe levels.

If the pressure-relief valve is unable to open, the pressure can continue to build inside of the tank past that 100 PSI ceiling. The heavy metal tank can withstand a lot of pressure buildup, but it eventually has its limits. The results are explosive, as the tank gives way, sending hot water flooding outward.

If your water heater has an emergency shutoff valve installed, the burst will be detected and the water supply will automatically shutoff. If not, you’re potentially looking at a flooded home with significant and costly water damage.

So, what causes the pressure-relief valve to fail? In many cases, the valve gets stuck or frozen in place due to the buildup of rust and corrosion inside the tank. Or, the valve is stuck due to a prior instance in which it released hot water.

A broken valve is something that should be fixed right away, but—unless you’re examining your water heater closely on a regular basis—may not be something most homeowners notice. That’s why regular testing and maintenance is important.

We recommend that homeowners here in Chicago test their pressure-relief valve when they flush out their water heater twice every year. Bundling your water heater maintenance tasks together makes sense, since each of these tasks takes about 10 minutes to complete.

Start by positioning a large bucket underneath the valve. You are going to release some hot water during this process, so you want to make sure you’re wearing safe clothes to reduce a scalding risk. Remove the drain pipe attached to the pressure valve.

Then, gently lift the valve switch so that hot water begins to come out of the valve and into the bucket. For the purposes of this test, don’t push the switch all the way up.

So long as water and air are coming out of the water heater during this test, your water heater pressure-relief valve is working as intended. On the other hand, if you’ve flipped the switch up and you’re not seeing any release, that could indicate a problem with the valve.

Did you know that most people use between 80 and 100 gallons of water every day? From using the restroom and showering to cooking and cleaning, your water usage is a crucial part of your daily home routine. Here are just a few daily tasks most homeowners do without thinking, and the corresponding amount of water it takes to complete them: Flushing a toilet: 1-3 gallons per flush

This doesn’t take into account washing your hands, taking a bath, or watering your lawn. Your water use may also skyrocket during the summer, when you’re drinking more water or cooling off in the sprinklers.

Taking all this into account, it’s crucial that your water systems are working at their full capacity. Your water heater delivers hot water to your home, and your water pressure needs to be sufficient for your appliances to work and for your showers to be comfortable.

For all your daily tasks to run smoothly, water pressure is especially important. Imagine not having enough water pressure to flush a toilet or take a shower. There are other consequences to having water pressure that is too high.

To get your water pressure checked and adjusted by a professional, call the team at King Heating, Cooling, & Plumbing in Chicago, Illinois. We’re the experts on all home systems and can make sure your home is running at 100% capacity.

It’s been a long day at work, and you want to come home, take a hot shower, and relax with the family. You turn on the shower to see a small stream of water—or droplets—coming from the shower head. Even when you turn the shower handle to full capacity, only a small amount of water drips out. What’s the problem?

Your water pressure is likely too low. This can be an annoying setback for many homeowners, who depend on high water pressure to shower, clean, cook, and more. How can you properly shower or wash your hands when only a few drops are coming out of the faucet?

On the opposite side of the water pressure spectrum, high water pressure can pose a danger to you and your family inside the home. When water pressure is too high, pipes can become damaged and systems can overwork themselves to bring that water to you. It’s just like the tale of Goldilocks and the Three Bears: you don’t want your water pressure too low or too high—you want it just right.

Low water pressure is usually just a nuisance to homeowners and doesn’t pose a serious problem. High water pressure, on the other hand, can damage fixtures, seals, joints, and more. Water pressure that’s too high can also waste a lot of water in the home, leaving you with a higher utility bill at the end of the month.

As it comes from the municipal water supply to your home, residential water generally ranges from 40 to 80 PSI (pounds per square inch). Anything above or below this range could be considered too low or too high. Some experts will say that any level above 60 PSI is too high of water pressure for your home. It’s best to speak with a professional plumber to get your water pressure checked and to learn more about what level is right for your home. Your PSI range can be affected by elevation, house size, water needs, age of your home, and other factors.

If you haven’t checked your water pressure level in a while, it may be time to call King for a free VIP plumbing inspection. Even if you feel your water pressure and water heater are working great, there could be hidden efficiency problems lurking underneath the surface, such as a water heater that is running too hot and wasting energy. Only a true plumbing professional can get to the bottom of the issue and help you save money, month-over-month.

This goes without saying, but if you’re not comfortable flushing your water heater or checking the valve, don’t just ignore this crucial maintenance need. Give our team a call and have us out to your home to perform this service for you. Remember, this preventative maintenance can help prevent a tank burst and major water damage.

The location of a water heater is always a concern. Many are installed inside a living space and tucked away in a closet. It doesn’t take much imagination to envision what could happen when one of these water heaters is not installed properly. A water heater temperature and pressure relief valve is an important safety device for water heaters as well as the water distribution system to which it is connected. A new edition of CodeNotes—Water Heater Safety in the I-Codes (based on the 2018 IPC and IRC) — provides an understanding of the detailed requirements on these items from an overall safety viewpoint.

There are other important items associated with the relief valve. These items are mentioned in Section 504.6 of the International Plumbing Code (IPC) and Section P2804.6.1 of the International Residential Code (IRC). These sections address the requirements of discharge piping serving a pressure relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination temperature and pressure relief valve. Because the discharge piping from these safety devices that serve water heaters are an extension of the potable water distribution system, the outlet of the discharge pipe must be treated as a potable water supply system outlet.

Item 3 requires the discharge piping not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve served and must discharge full size to the air gap. (See Figure 2)

Item 4 requires the discharge piping serve only a single relief device and that it shall not connect to piping serving any other relief device or equipment. Figure 3 illustrates an approved means of connecting the discharge from multiple water heater relief valves. The code is silent as to the size or shape of the waste receptors and the gravity drain line size for capturing and conveying the discharge water from relief valves.

Item 6 requires the discharge piping to discharge in a manner that does not cause personal injury or structural damage. A good example of locations that are not suitable for the termination of relief valve drain lines are shower floors, laundry trays, kitchen sinks, and bath tub. Anyone that would be using these fixtures could be subject to injury by hot water and steam that could come from the pipes.

Item 7 requires the discharge to terminate to a point that is readily observable by the building occupants. It is important that the occupant be aware of the discharging relief valve or valves as soon as possible to limit the amount of discharge that may possibly cause damage or injury.

Items 8 and 9 require the relief valve discharge line to not be trapped and must drain by gravity without sags in the piping. Retained water in these trapped areas or piping sags might cause a buildup of scale or corrosion over time, or possibly freeze if the piping is located in an area that is subject to freezing. Both situations have the potential to create a blockage to any discharge that might come from a relief valve which would create a dangerous condition.

Item 10 requires the relief valve to terminate no more than 6 inches (152mm) above the floor surface, a waste receptor or floor drain in order to prevent hot water discharge from being directed onto a building occupant that may be nearby. Obviously for termination points to the floor, the floor must be a suitable location for water discharge or a floor drain or waste receptor must be provided to capture and direct discharges from the pipe. See Figure 5 for example of approved and unapproved termination.

Item 11 requires the discharge piping have no threaded connection at the end of such piping. This would make it easy for someone to screw on a cap or valve to stop the dripping water from the pipe. What might be perceived as an easy repair by the handy person could create a dangerous situation that could result in severe damage of the building and injury or death of the occupants. (See Figure 6)

Item 12 prohibits discharge pipes from having valves or tees installed. The valve and tee fittings are obviously prohibited as the valve can be closed creating a dangerous situation and the tee fitting could allow connections of piping from other sources. (See Figure 7)

To summarize, the installation requirements of discharge piping serving a pressure relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination temperature and pressure relief valve mentioned in Section P2804.6.1 of the IRC and Section 504.6 of the IPC are extremely important. If not installed as required by this code could result in contamination of the potable water supply system and or create a very dangerous situation that could result in explosion.

As part of its goal to serve the needs of plumbing, mechanical and fuel gas (PMG) officials, the ICC PMG Official Membership Council is committed to providing free, informative code support documents known as CodesNotes that can be used to complement building departments’ in-house weekly supplemental training. We hope you enjoy this newest edition of CodeNotes. Past topics include backflow devices and the protection of the water supply, gas pipe sizing based on the latest edition of the International Fuel Gas Code and the International Residential Code, and bonding of corrugated stainless steel tubing gas piping systems, just to name a few. The CodesNotes collection has recently been expanded to include a selection of notes offered in Spanish.

A thermostatic mixing valve (TMV) bridges the hot water in your system and the water that comes out of taps or showers. It keeps your hot water system safe in a couple of ways, and can keep you safe, making it a crucial part of your home plumbing that your local plumber should always check.

First, it allows your system to store water at a high enough temperature to keep bacteria at bay. However, it also regulates the temperature of the water that you use.

When you turn on a tap or shower that connects to a TMV set-up, then the valve controls the release of hot water. Typically, it mixes hot and cold water together to reach a set temperature as dictated by its thermostat setting set by a plumber with a TMV licence. So, your water should never run so hot that it could scald or burn

When all is well, the TMV works seamlessly. However, it might develop problems that prevent it from working as it should. What are the signs that your valve has a fault?

If a TMV valve stops working correctly, then you may notice that your hot water suddenly starts to run hotter than it should. If the valve can’t regulate temperature correctly, it might not be able to cool hot water down enough to make it safe.

However, excess heat isn’t the only sign of trouble here. Sometimes, a failing TMV makes the water too cold. Or, water may not run at the right temperature consistently. It may fluctuate between being hot and cold.

Changes in water temperature have various causes. For example, the valve may be blocked or may have moved out of position. The thermostatic element might have stopped working or might have a problematic O-ring. Or, you might have a problem with water pressure or flow through the valve.

Sometimes, the first sign of a TMV problem is a change in the way your water comes out of a tap. Typically, you see a reduction in flow or pressure here.

For example, your water might start to run sluggishly and slowly all the time. You might struggle to get the tap to give out more than a trickle of water. Or, your water might switch between working normally and running at a reduced pressure or flow.

Again, these problems can have various causes. Sometimes, water can’t run through a TMV freely because parts of its valves are gummed up with debris or scale. Older valves might also suffer from corrosion which blocks them up. Or, a valve might not have been fitted correctly in the first place.

If you have problems with a TMV, then you sometimes see outward signs that all isn’t well. For example, water might seep out of parts of the valve; you may even see some water on the floor under it. This might indicate a faulty seal or a corrosion problem.

If you have a TMV in your shower, then a faulty valve can make the shower drip even when it is off. Here, the valve may not be in the right position so it doesn’t shut water off effectively. Or, you may have a problem with the valve’s seals or cartridge.

If you have concerns about a TMV, then you need expert help. Don’t try to fix these valves if you don’t know what you’re doing. They are too important a safety job to mess up.

While bathtubs may appear simple, there are many moving parts to consider when making a tub. Each part plays an important role in how your bathtub functions and more importantly, it is crucial to know what to look for in the event that something goes wrong. Here are all the parts of a bathtub:

First and foremost is the water supply. The water supply provides water to your faucets and shower head peripherals, filling your bathtub with water. It is important to check your water supply periodically for any damages or pollutants, although typically, turning on your water can give you a clear indicator of its overall purity. Cold water is provided typically through your utilities either through a condenser or a tower, whereas warm water is usually distributed from your water heater.

Also, lack of cold water from your shower is related to your water cartridge in your shower, and similarly, lack of hot water is caused by issues with your water heater. If you live in an apartment complex, this will usually be controlled for each individual unit in your building. On the other hand, if you live in a home, the water supply will be buried underground or placed in your basement or crawlspace as to not disrupt you in any way.

Directly connected to your water supply is your shower, which provides an aerial stream of water for bathing. Most homes have a shower mounted on a higher angle combined with a bathtub below that serves as the drain. You can change the size of your shower heads, replacing them with more water efficient ones, but the tradeoff would be less water flow overall. Conversely, you can also change them to provide better water flow, but this will increase your water bill significantly. Your shower is controlled by a set of control valves that determine both hot and cold water independently. In older models, you should take care not to burn yourself as there is no temperature control for the water, whereas newer models have thermostat mixing valves that ensure no such incidents like scalding can occur.

Similar to your shower, the bathtub provides a vessel for holding water for the purposes of bathing. While the shower is more for upright bathing, the bathtub is designed for bathing from a seated position. Typically rectangular or oval in design, all bathtubs have a central drain located at the base of the tub, which can be plugged for regulating water flow. As most bathtubs are shower combinations, water is controlled by similar valves-one for cold water, the other for hot with newer models containing thermostat mixing valves to ensure more safety concerning higher temperatures.

Allowing control of the water supply to your home, there are two primary types of shutoff valves-fixture valves and primary valves. In newer homes or those built within the past 40 years, fixtures will have a separate stop valve running from the supply tube to your fixture. If it does not, then water will need to be cut off to your entire home, which would be the main shut-off valve. The main shut-off valve controls water flow to your entire house. If you do not have separate stop-valves, consider installing them for the purposes of an emergency.

A diverter pipe is a piece of plumbing equipment used to divert or centralize the flow of water to a single area, or in other words, if you want hot and cold water to flow out from one faucet. They are commonly used in nearly all appliances such as bathtubs, freestanding sinks, and showers so that both flows of water can be joined together into a singular opening. The easiest way to notice whether you need to replace a diverter pipe is general low water pressure.

Usually only installed in a bathtub, a planar cross is a four cross connection of pipes that control water flow. In this case, the planar cross connects to the diverter pipe as well as your cold, hot water supply and the rim of your drain, allowing for water to flow directly out from your bathroom. The reason it isn’t prevalent in other parts of your home is that with cross section arrangements, you risk having municipal water mixing in with your own.

The rim is defined by the upper edge of your tub or the lipof it. The lip is meant to both provide a secure base for your bathtub to rest on as well a way to catch water that may spill out from the top of your bathtub if full. Often times, however, the rim will get wet and the sealant underneath will start to wear thin, so it is best to caulk the area every once in a while.

The drain allows water to leave your bathtub or sink, specifically through the drain pipe. It is identified by a circular hole at the base of your bathtub or the bottom of your sink. If water does not flow directly out, it means that your drain is clogged, (a common problem) and you need to check the drain pipe for the direct problem. Often times, it is usually the byproduct of hair build up, which will clog the pipe and restrict water flow-installing a strainer to catch hair will save future headaches down the road.

A flexible connector is a pipe that shores up any connector problems that may exist in your plumbing. If, for instance, your pipes don’t fully connect to each other, a connector pipe, usually made from braided steel, is used for connecting your appliances to the water supply. They come in a large variety of sizes and bolt styles, allowing for easy adjustment into about just any home. Most common with newly installed sinks or a freestanding bathtub, flex connectors can help align your plumbing with that of your appliances.

Located between your connections and the drain, the overflow pipe serves to catch all the excess water build up and direct it to your drain through a separate pipe. The general idea behind an overflow pipe is to lessen the load or general water flow to your drain, otherwise, it may stress the piping if a separate channel isn’t created for excess water to move through.

A trap, or otherwise referred to as an ‘S-Bend’ is a specific type of piping that is designed in the shape of a sideways S. This design allows for the water to be trapped so that harmful substances and gases cannot pass through from outside into your home, while simultaneously allowing for waste to pass from your home to the outside. In most homes, traps are used to control the inflow of dangerous gasses into your water system, so expect to find a small number of them within your piping systems.

A waste outlet or a drain-waste-vent is a system most commonly installed in and around your toilet. It uses gravity to pull waste down to the sewer, providing a clear channel for your waste to be disposed of. The outlet will usually be connected by a trap which will ultimately prevent any harmful substances from affecting your own water supply while maintaining a constant neutral air pressure that helps to move water through the system.

The retaining nuts are the locking nuts that fasten your fixtures to the wall. In the case of your bathroom, they are the nuts that hold your bathtub or faucet in place. Usually installed on a shaft or elongated piece, the retaining nut prevents any further movement of your bathtub or sink even when tremendous force is applied.

Typically flush with your wall, the decorative panel is an outer layer of a wall that covers all the interior pipe make up of your bathroom. Generally, this takes the appearance of tile or natural stone, but it is also sold in a variety of materials such as acrylic which is much cheaper. The panel’s job is to hide many of the inner workings of the bathtub or sink from public view, providing a much cleaner bathroom aesthetic. They also need to be waterproof as well to prevent buildup and deterioration down the line.

The lining refers to the area where your bathtub meets the joined wall, securing it. Problems with the lining usually arise from water seeping into the crevices along the side, causing it to deteriorate over time if untreated. The cure for this is to either install new lining, which consists of multiple layers of PVC plastic or acrylic which is then glued on top of your old bathtub then secure it with sealant. Or, you may need to replace your bathtub altogether.

The lever and handles determine your overall water pressure from your shower or bathtub. In many homes, the lever action is integrated into the handles, requiring you to pull outwards for there to be an inflow of water, which is useful for controlling your water levels. The other function these serve is to control the temperature of the water that comes out of your shower/bathtub.

The dome is the cover to your shower, allowing for a more controlled burst of water rather than a high pressure stream. Usually, a dome will have several holes dotted along its surface, which allow it to strain incoming water into a more manageable area.

A faucet cartridge is a type of valve that is located inside of your faucet that regulates water flow and temperature when you turn the handle. Located in many showers, it provides higher control of temperature and is usually the first thing to check when temperatures aren’t working optimally in your shower/faucet.

The faucet spout is the area where water flows from, or more specifically, where all the water pressure and piping directs your water to flow out of. So when you turn your faucet or sink handles, water will come out so long as your piping is hooked up properly. The spout also functions as a way of controlling outflow water as it’s angular and higher design means that the water pressure will be lessened having to travel upwards than if it was closer to the ground.

A child can be severely scalded in under a second when the temperature of water coming out of your taps is around 65°C. When the water coming out of your taps is at a maximum of 50°C, it’s much safer. At this temperature, it takes five minutes to severely scald a child.

Here are some simple tips for preventing scalds in the bath:Check the bath temperature using a thermometer. You could also test the temperature by putting your arm in. If your skin goes red, the water is too hot for your child.

Ensure that the water coming out of your taps is at a maximum of 50°C. This is a low-risk temperature for scalds. Talk to your heater manufacturer, local gas supplier, plumber or gasfitter about a temperature control device for your hot water system.

Turn on the cold water first, then the hot to get the right bath temperature for your child. When turning the water off, turn off the hot water first so the cold water can run through the tap and cool it down.

Heated water needs to be stored at above 60°C to prevent the formation of Legionella bacteria. This is why it’s good to have a temperature control device fitted to lower the temperature of the water coming out of your taps.

Enjoying a strong shower in the morning may sound like a plus for those with high water pressure but the resulting plumbing headaches down the road are not worth it. High water pressure puts enormous stress on your home’s internal piping and is classically the source of plumbing issues everyone deals with.

Homeowners have to be mindful that the city adjusts their water main pressure depending on your neighborhood. As communities grow and new infrastructure goes up, more people gain access to the same old piping systems, so it is inevitable for the pressure to drop with so many different outlets. Instead of spending money to re-plumb neighborhoods, the classic solution to this issue is to simply turn up the pressure at the water main that supplies that plumbing network. While this ensures that everyone has adequate pressure as a whole, it can result in uneven water pressures depending on each individual home’s distance from the main. This can lead to fluctuations in pressure based on neighborhood use, sudden increases in pressure, or a constant level of high or low water pressure.

Another possible cause of high pressure is the residual build up of pressure caused by the mechanical back flow prevention device that stops water already in your pipes from flowing into the city water system and possibly causing contamination. This standard device helps to keep your plumbing system from losing pressure and driving up your water bill, but when incoming or internal spikes of pressure occur they are trapped within your pipes. Over time, this can cause high water pressures and subsequent damage.

A common culprit of high water pressure is a faulty water pressure regulator, which is used to reduce the water pressure from the public water main so that it is compatible with household fixtures such as your outdoor faucet and kitchen sink. This is the first line of defense for any plumbing system and is installed downstream of your water meter. Sometimes, pressure regulators are installed as preventative insurance – rather than always lowering pressure to a normal level, they protect your home from sudden surges. In this case, you may not know that your regulator has failed until it’s too late.

All those leaks around the house may not be solely due to poor plumbing; even the best plumbing has trouble standing up to high pressure for extended periods of time. Too much water rolling through pipes causes shakes, rattles, and water hammering that is sure to keep you up at night.

This wear and tear extends to your appliances; made for standard pressure an unnatural load of pressure can lead to toilets, shower heads, washer machines, and even hot water heaters to break down years before they should. If your toilet makes that “post-flush sound” constantly than it may be leaking due to high water pressure. The toilet may not be able to stop such a buildup of water from pushing itself in, pouring into the bowl and wasting water straight down the drain without you even noticing.

Other leaks could cause much more damage, seeping into walls and breaking down ceilings from undue stress on the joints throughout your plumbing. In extreme cases you could be the victim of exploding cold or hot water tanks from excess pressure build up. Small or large, dealing with the aftermath of a high pressure mess is costly and time-consuming.

The good news about high water pressure is that it is relatively easy to fix! If you are already aware of significant pressure in your home you can have a licensed contractor install or repair your water pressure regulator. This will maintain a set level of incoming pressure, regardless of the PSI at your water main.

Even if you are currently not experiencing any problems it is important to keep an eye on what is flowing through your pipes. Testing your system with a water pressure gauge ($10 from a hardware store) will give you peace of mind and allow you to make money saving preemptive changes. Simply attach the gauge to a faucet closest to your water meter and slowly open up that faucet. To ensure an accurate reading you’ll need to make sure all other appliances (water machines, showers, refrigerators with ice makers) are off and closed.

When designing the Aquor House Hydrant, we were mindful of the problems everyone faces with high water pressure. By using stainless steel and a double O-ring system we made sure that high water pressure would not result in leaks. Rather than causing it to gradually fail, high water pressure actually causes the House Hydrant to seal tighter. This is due to its patented valve design, that is closed via water flow rather than a screw, gate, or ball valve. Regardless of the fixture you use, it is important to treat your home like your own body and regularly perform checkups to make sure that your plumbing is holding up. Going years without looking into your pipes might cost you a pretty penny in damages later on. Checking your water pressure every now and then will help keep your home dry and safe!

Few things are more frustrating than looking forward to awarm, relaxing showerafter a long day, and instead having to endure an oscillating stream of scalding and glacial water because something to do with the temperature is all messed up. But before you go tearing yourshower headout of the wall and calling up a plumber, there are a few things you can do to hopefully get your water temperature back to normal. Here they are, per Paul Abrams, ofRoto-Rooter, andBailey Carson, of Handy, an online marketplace for cleaning, installation and other home services.

Wait a WhileThe most obvious cause of fluctuating water temperatures, according to Abrams, is simply “running low on hot water from the water heater.” He says, “This happens if you’re last in line for a shower at your house, or if you have an undersized water heater. One thing I learned at my in-laws’ house is that my father-in-law likes to stick it to The Man and remove the water flow restrictor in the shower head, which means water is pushing through much faster than it’s supposed to, and it quickly depletes the supply of hot water in the tank. When hot water starts running out, we users tend to turn the handle to a hotter setting in desperation, and we get very hot or very cold water and decreased bandwidth in the warm range.” So, if someone showered before you, wait a little while so the water heater can fill back up.

Adjust Your Mixing Valve/Scald Guard“In most instances, your scald guard — a plastic disk with notches — simply needs to be adjusted,” says Carson. “To adjust the water valves and scald guard, the single handle can be easily removed by loosening the screws with a wrench and lifting from the faucet. You’ll want to adjust the dial of the temperature controls accordingly to balance out the hot and cold water valves.” You can see exactly how this is done, with two different kinds of knobs, in the videos below.

Abrams warns, however, that you should take it slow when adjusting your scald guard, or else you could end up making the water temperature dangerously hot. “It’s important to note that faucets are set at the factory to a safe setting to prevent scalding, which is especially important to remember if you have babies, children and elderly people in the house,” he says. “This adjustment is the last safety device to prevent you from scalding yourself, and it was no doubt put in place after some expensive lawsuits were filed against faucet manufacturers. If you adjust this device, do so in one or two tiny increments at a time, then test the water temperature with your hand. Being a tough guy and pushing the setting all the way to the hot setting is a recipe for disaster, especially if your water heater is already set too hot — water heaters should be set to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, but many people crank them up much higher.”

Replace the Faucet Cartridge AltogetherIf, when you go to tweak the scald guard, you notice that the whole thing is looking worn down, you should probably go ahead and replace the whole cartridge. “With usage and time, these cartridges will fail,” Abrams says. “If your shower has no warm range, but goes from very hot to very cold, it’s probably time to replace that faucet cartridge. Many manufacturers guarantee their cartridges for life, and they’ll ship you a new cartridge for free. However, switching out the cartridge isn’t something every person is willing to try. Often, it’s a simple job, but if the cartridge is crusted over with hard water deposits, or it’s been in there for years, getting it out with a pliers can prove to be very difficult.”