gas oven safety valve leaking for sale

I found myself this morning with the (very literal) headache of a gas leak. Smell led me to the oven of my old stove. I removed the main pipe from the oven valve, applied soap to the valve exit, and it bubbles slowly alright. I don"t ever use the oven, so I don"t care for replacing the valve. So...

2. The pilot exit from the valve lets out a lot of gas, is that normal? I know it has a safety valve on the igniter, and it seems to be working (no bubbles on the pilot), but shouldn"t the main valve close both pipes?

Most modern appliances have safety features built in, but your gas oven safety valve is arguably the most important. If an electrical appliance malfunctions, it can cause a fire, but a misfiring gas oven could potentially blow up your house. You don"t ​really​ need to know how the safety mechanism works to use your oven, but you may find that it gives you some extra peace of mind.

Broadly speaking, there are two ways a built-in safety mechanism can work. One option is that it remains "open" by default and to shut off if certain conditions are met. That"s how fuses and circuit breakers work in an electrical circuit: Ordinarily, the electricity is free to flow, but if the current grows too large, the fuse or breaker will blow and cut off the circulation of electricity.

The other option is for your safety mechanism to be "closed" by default and allow a device to operate only when the correct conditions are met. That"s how a gas oven safety valve works. Gas ordinarily is prevented from flowing, and if the valve is working correctly, it opens only when you want to light your oven.

Many gas stoves use what"s called a "hot surface igniter," a bar or element (similar to the ones on your stovetop) that gets hot enough to ignite the gas on contact. Gas oven safety valves on stoves with this type of ignition system take a couple of different approaches.

In one approach, a bimetallic strip operates the valve. It harnesses a simple scientific principle: Metals expand and contract at different rates when they"re heated and cooled. If you bond two suitable metals together in one strip, that strip will flex to a predictable degree as the temperature goes up and down. Wall-mount thermostats often use this principle, as do analog oven thermometers and the thermometer in the lid of your gas grill.

As appliance-repair website PartSelect explains, turning on your gas oven causes electricity to flow into the heating element of your hot surface igniter. As the igniter heats up, it warms a bimetallic strip inside your gas oven safety valve. When the igniter reaches its operating temperature, the bimetallic strip opens the valve and allows the gas to flow, igniting as it crosses the heated surface.

According to heating-equipment vendor Anglo Nordic, gas oven safety valves use a variation of that principle to operate. In these stoves, the flow of electrical current through the hot surface igniter becomes the control mechanism. The igniter"s bar is made of a material that offers less and less resistance to electricity as it heats. When it reaches the temperature required to ignite the gas, its resistance becomes low enough to trip the safety valve and open the flow of gas.

More modern ranges use an electrical igniter. When you turn on your oven, the gas begins flowing immediately, and it sends an electrical current to a piezo electric igniter. The current makes the igniter spark (like the manual igniter on your gas grill) and lights the oven"s burner. In this case, the safety valve works in the opposite way: An electronic sensor checks for the heat caused by ignition after a few seconds, and if it"s absent, it will close the valve and shut off the flow of gas.

It"s worth pointing out that not all gas ovens have a safety valve in the conventional sense. Older stoves simply use a pilot light, a small but constant flow of gas, which, in turn, feeds a small, candle-like flame. You essentially ​are​ the safety mechanism in this system: It"s up to you to check that the pilot is lit. When you turn on the gas manually, the small pilot flame ignites the main flame. It"s a mechanically simple system, which makes it durable, and for that reason, you"ll still see it used on commercial restaurant ranges, which must stand up to decades of heavy use.

Do you smell gas coming from your fireplace but don’t know where it’s coming from? Nothing is more frustrating and puzzling than a gas smell coming from your fireplace when it’s off. If you’re unsure whether your gas valve is leaking, then there are ways to test it and tell. Since we understand your frustration and concern, we’re going over fireplace gas valves and how to tell if your fireplace valve is leaking.

A fireplace gas valve is located near your firebox and it controls the flow of gas to your feature. Whether you have a fireplace, a fire pit or just a log lighter for conveniently starting fires in your wood-burning fire pit, chances are you have a straight or angled quarter-turn ball valve.

A quarter-turn ball valve means you turn the handle a quarter of a full rotation to open or close the valve and control the flow of gas. These valves are generally made of brass with a hollowed-out ball that sits in the middle of a chamber. The ball mechanism is attached to an outer handle that when turned, either opens or closes the flow of gas to your fireplace.

The basic operation of a fireplace gas valve coupled with a brass design makes for a durable, long-lasting valve component, but it’s still subject to normal wear and tear. It might sound like common sense, but one of the ways to check a leaky gas valve is to ensure the ball valve is fully closed. If your valve is fully closed and you still smell gas coming from your fireplace when it’s off, then you likely need a ball valve replacement. If you’re unsure, here’s how to tell if your fireplace gas valve is on or off:

Fireplace gas valve on: the handle is parallel to the valve, which turns the hollowed-out area of the ball in your ball valve parallel to the gas pipe and opens the flow of gas to your fireplace. If you have an escutcheon installed, then insert the key and turn it pointing to on.

Fireplace gas valve off: the handle is perpendicular to the valve, which turns the ball with the solid area parallel to the pipe to block the flow of gas to your fireplace. If you have an escutcheon instead of a gas valve handle, then insert the key and turn it pointing to off.

Again, this may sound like common sense, but many times the handle isn’t fully closed and this allows just a small amount of gas to continue flowing through the ball valve and into your fireplace. When this happens, you’ll smell gas coming from your fireplace. If you turn your gas valve key or handle closed tight and still your gas valve smells like gas, then chances are you need a fireplace gas valve replacement.

Ball valves tend to wear out over time and not seal off the flow of gas to and from your fireplace, causing a leak even when your gas fireplace or log starter pipe is turned off. When your fireplace is turned off but your gas valve smells like gas, then you leak and probably need a replacement valve. Here are some of the common causes or issues behind a gas fireplace valve leak:

Damage: if your quarter-turn ball valve is physically damaged from the outside, this can cause misalignment and be the reason for a leak. Look for any signs of damage such as bends, cracks or dents.

Stripped or worn: sometimes a fireplace gas valve becomes worn or stripped and won’t fully close off the flow of gas. This is harder to identify, but you’ll know if your fireplace is turned off and there’s a smell of gas still coming from the valve.

Wrong size: if you recently installed your gas fireplace or had a gas line connected to your fireplace and you smell gas when your feature is turned off, then you may have the wrong size gas valve installed.

Installing a gas valve that is too big is one of the top causes of gas fireplace leaks, which is also why you should always consult a certified gas professional before connecting fireplace gas lines.

This is an easy DIY fireplace gas valve troubleshooting technique. Small bubbles resembling foam indicate a small gas leak whereas larger bubbles mean your fireplace valve has a major leak.

If you’ve performed the fireplace gas valve troubleshooting technique above and discovered a leak, then you have a couple of options. From here, you can attempt to fix a small gas valve leak yourself by tightening the connection. Wipe off your gas valve, tighten the connection using a basic pipe wrench or adjustable wrench and retest the valve using the technique above. Just be careful not to damage or strip your connection or fireplace gas pipe in the process of trying to tighten it. If you still have a gas smell coming from your gas valve or fireplace, then you probably need to call a certified gas professional to come out and run more tests.

For major fireplace valve leaks, we recommend turning off the gas supply to your home or your fireplace, if that’s possible. Next, open up some windows and call a professional to come out and further diagnose your leaky gas valve problem. Although you can try to tighten the connection yourself, major gas leaks are cause for concern and typically aren’t fixed by simply tightening the valve and gas line.

Preventing gas fireplace valve leaks is the best way to avoid costly repairs and replacements. The last thing you want is to neglect your fireplace gas valve and get stuck with a large repair bill. Run the above DIY troubleshooting test using soapy water a couple of times per year to detect any issues early.

Basic gas valve care and maintenance are also great ways to prevent gas leaks. Don’t overtighten your gas fireplace valve as this will cause it to wear out quicker than normal. Use caution whenever you’re moving or lifting heavy items near or around your floor and wall-mounted gas valves or escutcheons. Hitting, banging and jostling your gas valve can loosen or damage your connections and cause leaks. Bending or denting your connections and valves can also cause gas to back up into the lines, which is an explosion hazard.

It’s also a good idea to have carbon monoxide detectors installed in your home for safety purposes. Whenever you use gas-burning fireplaces or other features, it’s smart to protect your loved ones with a carbon monoxide detector. Although carbon monoxide detectors won’t prevent a leaky gas valve, you’ll be able to rest easy knowing you and your loved ones are safe.

Hopefully, this article has helped you figure out whether or not your fireplace gas valve is leaking. Don’t be afraid to troubleshoot the problem moving forward, but when in doubt always contact a certified professional to come out and diagnose the issue.

In the meantime, explore our replacement valves and gas valve kits. We carry a range of kits that have everything you need to replace your leaky fireplace gas valve including an escutcheon and a new valve key!

Need help finding a fireplace gas valve replacement? Contact us online or give us a call at 888-986-1535 and a member of our team will be happy to assist you.

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Your gas meter requires periodic and routine safety inspections, which we provide at no additional cost to you. If we have access issues when these safety inspections or any necessary work to maintain the safety of your gas meter are required, we may contact you to request access.

An excess flow valve (EFV) automatically closes and significantly restricts unplanned or excessive natural gas flows if a pipeline is severed by digging. Download EFV information (PDF, 118 KB), and then complete your application in "Your Projects."

On the side or top of your water heater tank is a valve connected to a metal or plastic discharge tube pointing downward. The valve is called a T&P valve, or TPR valve, for "temperature and pressure relief."

If all goes well, a TPR valve never gets used intentionally except during testing. But in the event of an emergency or malfunction, this valve is of critical importance. It can potentially prevent your water heater from exploding. Understanding how a T&P valve works will help you keep your water heater in tip-top shape and prevent possible damage to your home.

A T&P valve is a valve with an attached tube located on the outside of a water heater. The valve provides relief to the water heater if the pressure exceeds normal operating limits, usually 150 psi.

Mandated by all plumbing codes, the T&P valve relieves excess temperature and pressure in a water heater if either reaches a critical point. A water heater is a closed system, and thermal expansion is an inescapable fact of both normal and abnormal water heater functioning.

In a standard water heater, the water is heated by a gas burner or electric elements. As the water reaches temperatures between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, both the water and the water heater"s metal tank expand.

Some expansion is normal, but too much expansion is unsafe. When the temperature reaches 210 degrees or the pressure reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch), a properly functioning T&P valve opens and expels hot water and steam through the discharge tube.

When you purchase a water heater, the T&P valve generally comes pre-installed. A threaded inlet is welded onto the side of the tank. This inlet cannot be removed or replaced. The T&P valve is screwed clockwise onto that inlet.

Because the T&P valve is rarely used, mineral build-up can cause it to stiffen over time. This is a significant safety hazard because, in the event of a temperature or pressure spike, the T&P valve may not open as it should and the water heater might explode.

Water heater manufacturers recommend regular checking of the T&P valve. Wear closed-toe shoes to avoid scalding. Except for a bucket, no tools are required.

Before you begin, make sure you know where the shut-off valve of your tank is. It"s usually located on the cold water feed, on the right side inlet on top of the tank.

Release the lever and let it snap back to its original position. If the lever does not snap back into place, the valve is faulty and must be replaced.

In most cases, there are two problems you might have to address with the T&P valve: a valve that leaks by constantly dripping or a valve that sticks and doesn"t open and close properly.

When a T&P valve is leaking, it may be due to the valve not being properly seated in the threaded opening of the tank. This is especially likely if the leaking occurs immediately after an old valve is replaced. This can be remedied by shutting off the water heater and letting it cool down completely, then removing and rethreading the valve into the tank"s opening.

If the valve is leaking due to dirt or sediment trapped in the relief port, pull the metal spring lever back again and discharge water into the bucket. Once the lever snaps back again, if the water fails to stop completely, shut turn the gas valve to the off position and shut the water off to replace the valve.

A water heater that periodically discharges hot water and steam from the T&P valve may be set to a water temperature that is too high. Make sure that the water temperature setting is in the normal recommended range—about 120 degrees Fahrenheit—or no more than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

When stuck downward, the valve cannot provide relief if the system reaches maximum pressure. As a result, the water heater tank might rupture. When stuck in a fully extended position, the T&P valve will continually leak water down through the discharge tube, potentially flooding the home.

The stickiness of the valve can sometimes be remedied by simply opening and closing the lever several times. Jiggle the T&P valve by gently pulling the lever towards you. Much like jiggling a toilet handle, this action may be enough to unstick the valve. If this does not fix the problem, replace the valve.

However, some caution is necessary whenever working with a water heater, because the T&P valve can become damaged if the water heater has exceeded maximum pressure or temperature levels. If you suspect a pressure-related problem with your water heater tank, hire a licensed plumber to have the water heater inspected.

In accordance with federal regulations, you may request that MidAmerican Energy install an excess flow valve (EFV) on your existing gas service line. An EFV is a mechanical safety device installed on a gas service line between the gas main and the gas meter. Although an EFV is not required for the normal, safe operation of your gas service line, an EFV could help mitigate the consequences of a service line break by restricting or stopping gas flow should your service line sustain damage. The EFV will not, however, provide protection for small leaks at the meter or beyond the meter on the customer piping.

We go above and beyond to ensure the safety and security of our natural gas distribution pipeline and transmission facilities, ensuring that the public, our employees and the environment is protected at all times. Learn more about MidAmerican Energy’s integrity management programs.