gas oven safety valve testing price

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For many years, ultrasound has been utilised by various vendors as an additional method to find the set point in cases the standard diagrams are hard to analyse. This can be the case when testing safety valves on liquid services.

Within an extensive benchmark test, METRUS in co operation with Sweden‘s biggest nuclear power station Ringhals AB investigated the approach to use ultrasound as an additional indication for the set point on liquid service safety valves. The result of 55 tests on different valves is that the „Ultrasound point“ is completely depending on the seat condition. This result perfectly first the fact that ultrasound will detect the start to leak point and not the set point (start to lift point).

Only on a new or freshly serviced valve, the set point will be close to the ultrasound point. Even tiniest soiling or improper maintenance will cause the ultrasound to severely „drift away“ from the true set point. Within a typical online safety valve testing scenario where a valve has not bee serviced for a year or more, it is not at all recommended to use ultrasound to identify the set point.

There are still two useful applications for ultrasound within online safety valve testing. A very simple but effective use is to compare the sound level of the valve before and after the test. Comparing those sound levels will indicate if after the test (disk lift) the valve is left in a similar condition to its previous untested state. This could be first information if the valve did properly reseat and seal after it has been lifted. White Paper – Online safety valve testing METRUS Valve Test Bench Exellence

Knowing why safety valves should be tested online and how this is done in theory, it is most helpful to get an idea of the every day questions you will have to deal with. It will enable you to imagine how online safety valve testing appears in real life.

Plant operators are often surprised when being asked by online testing engineers whether it is a problem to open a valve. Considering the definition of the set point to be the initial moment when the disk starts to lift the safety valve disk must lift to find that point in a test diagram. It very much depends on the test equipment how long and high the valve will open, but it definitely has to open. geöffnet wird.

To test a safety valve, it must be possible to lift the disk and measure the force when doing so. If a safety valve has a spindle, it is possible in 95% of all cases to test it online. Some valves might require a simple spindle modification. This depends on the valve and the adapter solution how to „connect“ the test rig. Valves that do not have a spindle at all can not be tested.

Valves installed on extremely dirty fluids like bituminous crude oil should not be tested unless they are equipped with a rupture disk to keep the seat clean. Dirt could prevent the disk from sealing properly and the valve will remain leaking after the test. It the maintenance departments decision whether to agree with slightly lifting a valve or not.

Safety valves installed in EEx areas require special equipment to operate the test rig. If such equipment is available, it is important to check the specific EEx certificate for the approved EEx class and EEx area. As of now and to our best knowledge, there is no online safety valve testing system available that has an EEx approval for the whole machine. The test rigs are approved but the power unit usually has to stay outside the EEx area or have to be protected with special temporary solutions.

A frequent question to be found in industry is „what is the highest set point and the largest nominal diameter you can test?“. According to the online testing formula of fig. 1 the set pressure is calculated from line pressure, seat area and test force. Those parameters interact. The more line pressure is to be found under the safety vales disk the less force is required to lift (test) it. A final statement can never be made as it depends on seat area, set point and line pressure, whether or not the force capacity of specific equipment will be strong enough to test a valve.

Some suppliers claim that their equipment can test „any“ safety valve. Technically speaking it means raising the line pressure will lead to a remaining test force small enough to be covered by the test equipments force capacity. As online safety valve testing should not affect the plant operation this statement is not very respectable. Usually the line pressure can not be changed significantly just to test a valve.

Thinking about the largest valves, small and medium valves are often forgotten. But those ½“ and 1“ valves built the majority of valves to be found in industry. It is a technical fact, that each measurement task requires suitable sensor ranges. Large valves require large forces and small valves usually small forces. The operational range of online safety valve test equipment is therefore not only defined by its strongest force capacity. It is a question how accurate it can deal with a variety of forces and pressures – small and large.

Online safety valve testing offers major cost saving potential. In most cases it is cheaper than workshop testing after comparing direct testing costs. This of course requires the test equipment to be efficient in handling and operation.

Safety valves need to be tested at various locations within a plant. It is common to move the test equipment a few times during a test day. Different valve types to be tested require retooling of the test rig. In every day life the equipment will be packed and unpacked several times and it will require adaptation to fit the test rig on the safety valve. Valves will be located on top of tall reactors and on difficult to reach places under or behind pipelines.

The test equipments performance is significantly defined by its mechanical performance – weight and flexibility. The time for unpacking and rigging up as well as for wiring all sensors etc. determines, how fast the individual valve test will be. And in many cases the safety valve requires adjustment. Depending on how long it takes to take the rig off the safety valve, testing and re-testing will be fast and efficient or time consuming.

Within a typical online safety valve test scenario, a valve might need to be adjusted. To adjust a valve, it requires to remove the rig (RR) adjust the valve (VA) and reinstall (RI) the rig before you can carry out the next test to see, if the adjustment was successful. This is done usually two times until a satisfying set pressure is adjusted.

The relation between handling and testing time in average test equipment is about 1/5. It becomes obvious that total test time and efficiency are significantly depending on the test rig performance – weight, portability and speed of set up / dismantling.

It may happen that safety valves stay open after the test. To make sure that such event does not affect the plant operation, a concept to remotely close the safety valve, using the test rig is absolutely necessary for safe online safety valve testing.

Testing safety valves online is not at all dangerous as long as the procedure is done properly and the system performs as it should. But there are rare scenarios in which a plant disturbance could appear, especially if a safety valve stays open or gets damaged.

Online safety valve test equipment today is either manually or electronically controlled. Electronic systems support the test process and monitor test limits, taking a lot of responsibility from the technician. TESON® e.g. automatically drives the complete lifting process, monitoring all sensor signals for pre calculated test limits. But electronic systems are sensitive to power black outs as well as to software malfunctions. To deal professionally with those, the online safety valve testing system must have an extensive safety system to guarantee the safety valve will never be blocked open or damaged – whatever might happen.

Manually controlled system are not sensitive to power black outs or system failures. They leave the full control over the test process to the technician. It is up to the technician to control the lifting force and whether or not to overload a valve. Especially with manually controlled system experience plays an important role as the safety issue is basically the human factor. Despite that even manually driven system must have some safety features to respond to hardware or hydraulic malfunction.

Considering the number of parameters to be considered and monitored during an online safety valve test, digital systems are definitely superior as the chance of malfunction and power black outs is considerably small if the systems are well designed and extensively tested. Even after intensive training and years experience it is barely possible for a technician to compete with the reliability and response time of a digital system. Considering the background of online safety valve testing it is a derived requirement of the system to be safely and correctly operated with minimum skill and experience.

When thinking of a first time investment, it is very often the purchase price that plays an important role. But if you consider the cost saving potential of online safety valve testing or the profit you could make with a service, it becomes obvious that there is more to be considered to get a real view on the cost of ownership.

Support from your supplier will be crucial for your business. If you are facing time sensitive testing sessions and your equipment gets damaged or you come across complex questions, delays of operations or loosing your customer to the competition can cause severe loss of profit. The system vendor should be able to minimize downtimes with an intelligent support strategy. This includes 24 h availability of technical support, access to most spare parts in local markets and availability of rental equipment to substitute yours during service and repair. The more a supplier is focused on the online safety valve testing business, the better resources he will offer to support your every day work.

Like all measuring equipment, online safety valve testing systems require calibration. Sensors and measuring electronic need calibration (typically every 2-3 years) to harmonize with ISO quality standards. Suppliers must be able to either offer you a calibration service or advice you where to get such service. To minimize transportation costs, the parts and modules that need calibration should be easy to isolate for shipping.

The variety of valves to be found in industry is huge. It is not at all practical to own every type of special equipment that might be required one day to test special applications. Your investment will be significantly lower if you can own core components that cover the majority of your every day online testing needs. Your supplier should offer you special extension for rent to cover the remaining applications once they are required.

We hope this white paper could draw a picture what online safety valve testing is about. If you have any further related question, please feel free to contact METRUS at any time. It will be our pleasure to support and consult you..

Thank you for your inquiry. The oven safety valve is one part that may fix the issue, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the igniter, the electronic control board and the temperature sensor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Can this oven valve work on my range? The range was plugged into the wrong outlet and it shorted out, the igniter glows when the stove is turned on however the burner isn"t lighting. I was told the the valve needs to be replaced.

Thank you for your question. This is not the correct safety valve for your appliance. I have listed the correct valve below for you. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Oven doesn"t heat. Igniter glows when gas is turned on, voltage on value starts near zero and slowly ramps up to just under 3 volts, but gas never ignites. The slow ramp seems normal to allow igniter to get hot, but not sure what the valve"s voltage should be to have it open. Valve coil is not open per ohm meter. Sounds like a bad valve? Thanks.

Hello Curt, Thank you for your inquiry. It sounds like it could be either this part or the pressure regulator. When the ignitor heats up to a certain temperature, it is supposed to trigger the valve to open and let the gas in to ignite and the regulator cuts it off at a certain pressure. Hope this helps!

Hello Sal, thank you for your question. You can test the gas valve to see if it has gone bad. You will need to test this with a multimeter. Here is a video that will show you how to test that valve.

Hello Steve, thank you for your question. The oven safety valve part number WB19K31 will work with either NAT or LP gas. The part itself can be switched over without any additional parts. Please check your owners manual on steps to change that over. I hope this helps!

In the oven a wire from the igniter shorted (had to pry the wire off the wall) to the frame. Would the control valve or the thermostat also be damaged. Where is the thermostat located on the stove. I noticed that the plastic on one of the knife connection on the control valve was missing

Hello Robert, thank you for writing. It is doubtful that the Oven Safety Valve or Oven Thermostat were also damaged when this occurred. The Oven Thermostat (part PS235170 on your model) is located behind the Manifold Panel (control panel). We hope this helps.

Hi there, i have a GE gas range (model jgbp28sem1ss) and need to replace the safety valve for the part of the oven that bakes. Is this the correct part? Thanks

This week’s Product Pick of the Week is the safety valve in your oven. The reason this product has been picked is because it is very important to understand how your range works to avoid hazardous situations such as open gas valves but no flame to burn said gas. This situation is the biggest concern with ovens, so it is crucial that you know how to test the safety valve so that you can continue using your range!

Used for testing all kinds of safety valve, such as spring directly load safety valve, Power assisted safety valve, Supplementary loaded safety valve, fully open, slightly open, flange, thread type safety valve. Safety valve test bench is to use high pressure air or nitrogen as the medium to test the sealing performance of the safety valve, jump pressure, back seat pressure, etc., for a variety of safety valve set pressure adjustment, set pressure test, discharge pressure test, back seat pressure test, test the pressure sealing performance of the safety valve, leakage rate. Safety Relief Valve Test bench has obvious advantages in techniques, test accuracy, safety etc.

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5. Test various relief valves such as full-open, micro-open, metric, flanged and threaded etc. Safety valve test bench is used for various safety valve setting pressure adjustment, the whole set pressure detection, discharge pressure detection, back seat pressure testing, assessment of its pressure safety performance etc.. , Safety Relief Valve Test bench has obvious advantages in techniques, test accuracy, safety etc.

Safety valve test bench is used for various safety valve setting pressure adjustment, the whole set pressure detection, discharge pressure detection, back seat pressure testing, assessment of its pressure safety performance etc Main technical data for Manual/ Computer control safety valve test bench

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1)Power system Air drive gas or nitrogen booster pump, air driving pressure 3-8bar;Maximum Output pressure 480bar; Provide high pressure for valve test.

Simple maintenance:Compared with other air-driving pumps,the pneumatic booster pump can perform the same job as other gas drive pumps, but with fewer parts and seals, and easier maintenance.

Used for testing all kinds of safety valve, such as spring directly load safety valve, Power assisted safety valve, Supplementary loaded safety valve, fully open, slightly open, flange, thread type safety valve. Safety valve test bench is to use high pressure air or nitrogen as the medium to test the sealing performance of the safety valve, jump pressure, back seat pressure, etc., for a variety of safety valve set pressure adjustment, set pressure test, discharge pressure test, back seat pressure test, test the pressure sealing performance of the safety valve, leakage rate. Safety Relief Valve Test bench has obvious advantages in techniques, test accuracy, safety etc.

The safety valve checkout platform is a device that simulates the working environment of the safety valve offline and makes the internal pressure rise to the safety valve lift.

The test pressure can be checked to check the starting pressure (also called opening pressure, setting pressure) of the safety valve. Suitable for performance testing of fixed pressure, backseat pressure and tightness of direct loading and pilot safety valves.

Low voltage, oven safety valve with female wire terminals for a flat ignitor. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

3/8" Oven safety valve with male wire terminals for a flat ignitor. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

3/8" inlet Oven safety valve. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

Dual terminal Oven safety valve. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

Dual gas safety valve assembly. The gas oven safety valve works with the oven igniter to provide gas to the burner. If the safety valve fails, the oven won’t heat. Since safety valves rarely fail, be sure to check more commonly defective parts before replacing the safety valve.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

Pilot ignition systems use a flame sensing element to sense whether the pilot is lit and the safety valve can open. The sensing element sits right in the pilot flame.

Just exactly where the sensor sits in the pilot flame is important. (See figure 6-A) If the sensing bulb is not in the right part of the flame, or if the pilot is adjusted too low or too high, it will not get hot enough and the safety valve will not open.

When two dissimilar metals (for example, copper and steel) are bonded together electrically, and then heated, they generate a tiny electrical current between them. The voltage is very small, measured in millivolts. This is the basis for a millivolt oven ignitor system. All that"s needed is a safety valve that will sense this tiny voltage and open the valve if it is present. If the pilot is out, there is no millivoltage and the safety valve will not open. See figure 6-B.

If the burner in a millivolt system will not start, typically the problem is the gas valve. Occasionally the problem might be the pilot generator or thermostat. The thermostat in these is just a temperature-sensitive on/off switch. To test, turn it on and test for continuity.

If that doesn"t work, we have a minor dilemma in determining whether the problem is the pilot generator or the safety valve. The dilemma here is that the voltages are too small to be measured with standard equipment. VOM millivolt adaptors cost nearly as much as the pilot generator itself. And the safety valve, which is usually the problem, costs twice as much as the pilot generator. So usually you just replace either or both of them. But don"t forget they are electrical parts, which are non-returnable. What I recommend is just to replace the gas valve first; that usually will solve the problem. If not, replace the pilot generator. You just ate a gas valve, but trust me, you"d have bought one sooner or later anyway.

When installing the pilot generator, screw it into the safety valve finger tight, plus 1/4 turn. Any tighter than that and you can damage the electrical contacts on the valve.

In some systems the sensor is a liquid-filled bulb, with a capillary to the safety valve or flame switch. When the liquid inside heats up, it expands and exerts pressure on a diaphragm, which opens the valve or closes the switch.

It is important to know that these sensor bulbs do not cycle the burner on and off to maintain oven temperature. That is the thermostat"s function. It has a sensor bulb too, but it senses oven temperature, not pilot flame. The only function of these pilot sensing elements is to prevent gas flow to the burner if the bulb does not get hot enough to assure burner ignition.

In flame switch systems, hydraulic pressure from the capillary physically closes the switch, which completes an electrical circuit to the safety valve. The safety valve is electrical and operates on 110 volts. See Figure 6-D. If the pilot is out, the flame switch does not close and the 110 volt heating circuit is not complete, so the safety valve will not open.

Some of these direct-pressure (hydraulic) systems use a two-level pilot. The pilot stays at a very low level; not even high enough to activate the safety valve. This is called the constant pilot, or primary pilot. Gas for the primary pilot may come from either the thermostat or directly from the gas manifold.

When the thermostat valve is turned on, the pilot flame gets bigger, heating the sensor bulb, which activates the safety valve (hydraulically) and the burner ignites. This is called the heater pilot, or secondary pilot. Gas for the secondary pilot comes from the oven thermostat itself.

When the gas oven reaches the correct temperature setting, the thermostat drops the pilot flame back to the lower level, the safety valve closes and the burner shuts off. See figure 6-E.

If you do have a good strong pilot that engulfs the pilot sensing bulb with flame, then odds are that the sensing element and/or whatever it is attached to are defective. If it is a flame switch, replace the flame switch. If it is a safety valve replace that.

In a two-level pilot system, remember that the main oven thermostat supplies the secondary pilot with gas. So if you cannot get a good secondary pilot the problem may be the pilot assembly, or it may be the thermostat. If you do get a good secondary pilot, you"re back to the sensing bulb and safety valve.

Spark ignition systems use a spark module to generate a pulsing, high-voltage spark to ignite the gas. The spark module is an electronic device that produces 2-4 high-voltage electrical pulses per second. These pulses are at very low amperage, measured in milliamps, so the risk of shock is virtually nil. But the voltage is high enough to jump an air gap and ignite gas. The spark ignition module is usually located either under the cooktop or inside the back of the stove. The same module is used for both the surface burner ignition and the oven burner ignition.

However, the spark is not certain enough to light the oven burner, and the gas flow is too high, to rely on the spark alone. Remember, in an oven, before the safety valve opens, you need to be assured of ignition. So the spark ignites a low-gasflow pilot, and then the safety valve opens only when the pilot is lit.

This is the same two-level pilot system described in section 6-2(b), with a few important exceptions. The constant or primary pilot does not stay lit when the oven thermostat is turned off. It does, however, stay lit the whole time the oven thermostat is turned on.

When the gas oven is turned on, a switch mounted to the oven thermostat stem signals the spark module. These are the same switches as shown in section 5-3.

When the thermostat calls for more heat in the oven, the heater or secondary pilot increases the size of the pilot flame, which heats the sensing bulb, which opens the safety valve and kicks on the burner.

Yup, this ol" boy"s got it all. Spark ignition, a pilot, a flame switch and TWO - count "em - TWO safety valves; one for the pilot and one for the burner. (Figure 6-H)

The operation is actually simpler than the diagram looks. When you turn on the oven thermostat, a cam on the thermostat hub closes the pilot valve switch. This opens the 110 volt pilot safety valve and energizes the spark module, igniting the pilot. As in the other spark system, the pilot flame provides a path that drains off the spark current, so the ignitor stops sparking while the pilot is lit. As long as the oven thermostat is turned on, the pilot valve switch stays closed, so the pilot valve stays open and the pilot stays lit.

When the pilot heats the pilot sensing element of the flame switch, the flame switch closes. This completes the 110 volt circuit to the oven safety valve, so the valve opens and the burner ignites.

When the oven temperature reaches the set point of the thermostat, the thermostat switch opens, breaking the circuit and closing the oven safety valve, and shutting off the burner.

Now that you know how the system works, first look to see what is not working. When the oven thermostat is on, and there isn"t a pilot flame, is the electrode sparking? Is there spark, but no primary pilot? Is the primary pilot igniting, but not the secondary? Is there sparking after the thermostat is shut off?

(The pilot may or may not light, but the main burner is not lighting) Remember that the thermostat supplies the pilot with gas in these ovens, and only when the thermostat is on. So if you don"t have a primary and secondary pilot flame, odds are the problem is the pilot orifice or oven thermostat. Try cleaning the pilot assembly and sensor bulb as described in section 6-5. If that doesn"t work, adjust the secondary flame a little higher. If that doesn"t work, replace the pilot assembly.

If you do have a good strong secondary pilot that engulfs the pilot sensing bulb with flame, then odds are that the oven safety valve (or flame switch, whichever is attached to the pilot sensing bulb in your system) is defective. Replace the defective component.

Something is wrong with the high-voltage sparking system. If you are in a hurry to use your oven, you can turn on the oven thermostat, carefully ignite the primary pilot with a match and use the oven for now; but remember that the minute you turn off the thermostat, the pilot goes out.

Are the cooktop ignitors sparking? If so, the spark module is probably OK. What typically goes wrong with the sparking system is that the rotary switch on the valve stops working. Test continuity as described in section 5-3(a). If that isn"t the problem, check the electrode for damage and proper adjustment. The spark target (the nearest metal to the electrode) should be about 1/8″ to 3/16″ away from it, (about the thickness of 2-3 dimes) and directly across the primary pilot orifice. Replace or adjust the electrode as appropriate. When replacing, make sure you get the right kind of electrode (there are several) and do not cut the electrode lead; follow it all the way back to the spark module and plug the new lead into the proper spark module terminal.

Most modern appliances have safety features built in, but your gas oven safety valve is arguably the most important. If an electrical appliance malfunctions, it can cause a fire, but a misfiring gas oven could potentially blow up your house. You don"t ​really​ need to know how the safety mechanism works to use your oven, but you may find that it gives you some extra peace of mind.

Broadly speaking, there are two ways a built-in safety mechanism can work. One option is that it remains "open" by default and to shut off if certain conditions are met. That"s how fuses and circuit breakers work in an electrical circuit: Ordinarily, the electricity is free to flow, but if the current grows too large, the fuse or breaker will blow and cut off the circulation of electricity.

The other option is for your safety mechanism to be "closed" by default and allow a device to operate only when the correct conditions are met. That"s how a gas oven safety valve works. Gas ordinarily is prevented from flowing, and if the valve is working correctly, it opens only when you want to light your oven.

Many gas stoves use what"s called a "hot surface igniter," a bar or element (similar to the ones on your stovetop) that gets hot enough to ignite the gas on contact. Gas oven safety valves on stoves with this type of ignition system take a couple of different approaches.

In one approach, a bimetallic strip operates the valve. It harnesses a simple scientific principle: Metals expand and contract at different rates when they"re heated and cooled. If you bond two suitable metals together in one strip, that strip will flex to a predictable degree as the temperature goes up and down. Wall-mount thermostats often use this principle, as do analog oven thermometers and the thermometer in the lid of your gas grill.

As appliance-repair website PartSelect explains, turning on your gas oven causes electricity to flow into the heating element of your hot surface igniter. As the igniter heats up, it warms a bimetallic strip inside your gas oven safety valve. When the igniter reaches its operating temperature, the bimetallic strip opens the valve and allows the gas to flow, igniting as it crosses the heated surface.

According to heating-equipment vendor Anglo Nordic, gas oven safety valves use a variation of that principle to operate. In these stoves, the flow of electrical current through the hot surface igniter becomes the control mechanism. The igniter"s bar is made of a material that offers less and less resistance to electricity as it heats. When it reaches the temperature required to ignite the gas, its resistance becomes low enough to trip the safety valve and open the flow of gas.

More modern ranges use an electrical igniter. When you turn on your oven, the gas begins flowing immediately, and it sends an electrical current to a piezo electric igniter. The current makes the igniter spark (like the manual igniter on your gas grill) and lights the oven"s burner. In this case, the safety valve works in the opposite way: An electronic sensor checks for the heat caused by ignition after a few seconds, and if it"s absent, it will close the valve and shut off the flow of gas.

It"s worth pointing out that not all gas ovens have a safety valve in the conventional sense. Older stoves simply use a pilot light, a small but constant flow of gas, which, in turn, feeds a small, candle-like flame. You essentially ​are​ the safety mechanism in this system: It"s up to you to check that the pilot is lit. When you turn on the gas manually, the small pilot flame ignites the main flame. It"s a mechanically simple system, which makes it durable, and for that reason, you"ll still see it used on commercial restaurant ranges, which must stand up to decades of heavy use.

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