gas stove safety valve repair free sample

Pilot ignition systems use a flame sensing element to sense whether the pilot is lit and the safety valve can open. The sensing element sits right in the pilot flame.

Just exactly where the sensor sits in the pilot flame is important. (See figure 6-A) If the sensing bulb is not in the right part of the flame, or if the pilot is adjusted too low or too high, it will not get hot enough and the safety valve will not open.

When two dissimilar metals (for example, copper and steel) are bonded together electrically, and then heated, they generate a tiny electrical current between them. The voltage is very small, measured in millivolts. This is the basis for a millivolt oven ignitor system. All that"s needed is a safety valve that will sense this tiny voltage and open the valve if it is present. If the pilot is out, there is no millivoltage and the safety valve will not open. See figure 6-B.

If the burner in a millivolt system will not start, typically the problem is the gas valve. Occasionally the problem might be the pilot generator or thermostat. The thermostat in these is just a temperature-sensitive on/off switch. To test, turn it on and test for continuity.

If that doesn"t work, we have a minor dilemma in determining whether the problem is the pilot generator or the safety valve. The dilemma here is that the voltages are too small to be measured with standard equipment. VOM millivolt adaptors cost nearly as much as the pilot generator itself. And the safety valve, which is usually the problem, costs twice as much as the pilot generator. So usually you just replace either or both of them. But don"t forget they are electrical parts, which are non-returnable. What I recommend is just to replace the gas valve first; that usually will solve the problem. If not, replace the pilot generator. You just ate a gas valve, but trust me, you"d have bought one sooner or later anyway.

When installing the pilot generator, screw it into the safety valve finger tight, plus 1/4 turn. Any tighter than that and you can damage the electrical contacts on the valve.

In some systems the sensor is a liquid-filled bulb, with a capillary to the safety valve or flame switch. When the liquid inside heats up, it expands and exerts pressure on a diaphragm, which opens the valve or closes the switch.

It is important to know that these sensor bulbs do not cycle the burner on and off to maintain oven temperature. That is the thermostat"s function. It has a sensor bulb too, but it senses oven temperature, not pilot flame. The only function of these pilot sensing elements is to prevent gas flow to the burner if the bulb does not get hot enough to assure burner ignition.

In flame switch systems, hydraulic pressure from the capillary physically closes the switch, which completes an electrical circuit to the safety valve. The safety valve is electrical and operates on 110 volts. See Figure 6-D. If the pilot is out, the flame switch does not close and the 110 volt heating circuit is not complete, so the safety valve will not open.

Some of these direct-pressure (hydraulic) systems use a two-level pilot. The pilot stays at a very low level; not even high enough to activate the safety valve. This is called the constant pilot, or primary pilot. Gas for the primary pilot may come from either the thermostat or directly from the gas manifold.

When the thermostat valve is turned on, the pilot flame gets bigger, heating the sensor bulb, which activates the safety valve (hydraulically) and the burner ignites. This is called the heater pilot, or secondary pilot. Gas for the secondary pilot comes from the oven thermostat itself.

When the gas oven reaches the correct temperature setting, the thermostat drops the pilot flame back to the lower level, the safety valve closes and the burner shuts off. See figure 6-E.

If you do have a good strong pilot that engulfs the pilot sensing bulb with flame, then odds are that the sensing element and/or whatever it is attached to are defective. If it is a flame switch, replace the flame switch. If it is a safety valve replace that.

In a two-level pilot system, remember that the main oven thermostat supplies the secondary pilot with gas. So if you cannot get a good secondary pilot the problem may be the pilot assembly, or it may be the thermostat. If you do get a good secondary pilot, you"re back to the sensing bulb and safety valve.

Spark ignition systems use a spark module to generate a pulsing, high-voltage spark to ignite the gas. The spark module is an electronic device that produces 2-4 high-voltage electrical pulses per second. These pulses are at very low amperage, measured in milliamps, so the risk of shock is virtually nil. But the voltage is high enough to jump an air gap and ignite gas. The spark ignition module is usually located either under the cooktop or inside the back of the stove. The same module is used for both the surface burner ignition and the oven burner ignition.

However, the spark is not certain enough to light the oven burner, and the gas flow is too high, to rely on the spark alone. Remember, in an oven, before the safety valve opens, you need to be assured of ignition. So the spark ignites a low-gasflow pilot, and then the safety valve opens only when the pilot is lit.

When the gas oven is turned on, a switch mounted to the oven thermostat stem signals the spark module. These are the same switches as shown in section 5-3.

When the thermostat calls for more heat in the oven, the heater or secondary pilot increases the size of the pilot flame, which heats the sensing bulb, which opens the safety valve and kicks on the burner.

Yup, this ol" boy"s got it all. Spark ignition, a pilot, a flame switch and TWO - count "em - TWO safety valves; one for the pilot and one for the burner. (Figure 6-H)

The operation is actually simpler than the diagram looks. When you turn on the oven thermostat, a cam on the thermostat hub closes the pilot valve switch. This opens the 110 volt pilot safety valve and energizes the spark module, igniting the pilot. As in the other spark system, the pilot flame provides a path that drains off the spark current, so the ignitor stops sparking while the pilot is lit. As long as the oven thermostat is turned on, the pilot valve switch stays closed, so the pilot valve stays open and the pilot stays lit.

When the pilot heats the pilot sensing element of the flame switch, the flame switch closes. This completes the 110 volt circuit to the oven safety valve, so the valve opens and the burner ignites.

When the oven temperature reaches the set point of the thermostat, the thermostat switch opens, breaking the circuit and closing the oven safety valve, and shutting off the burner.

(The pilot may or may not light, but the main burner is not lighting) Remember that the thermostat supplies the pilot with gas in these ovens, and only when the thermostat is on. So if you don"t have a primary and secondary pilot flame, odds are the problem is the pilot orifice or oven thermostat. Try cleaning the pilot assembly and sensor bulb as described in section 6-5. If that doesn"t work, adjust the secondary flame a little higher. If that doesn"t work, replace the pilot assembly.

If you do have a good strong secondary pilot that engulfs the pilot sensing bulb with flame, then odds are that the oven safety valve (or flame switch, whichever is attached to the pilot sensing bulb in your system) is defective. Replace the defective component.

Are the cooktop ignitors sparking? If so, the spark module is probably OK. What typically goes wrong with the sparking system is that the rotary switch on the valve stops working. Test continuity as described in section 5-3(a). If that isn"t the problem, check the electrode for damage and proper adjustment. The spark target (the nearest metal to the electrode) should be about 1/8″ to 3/16″ away from it, (about the thickness of 2-3 dimes) and directly across the primary pilot orifice. Replace or adjust the electrode as appropriate. When replacing, make sure you get the right kind of electrode (there are several) and do not cut the electrode lead; follow it all the way back to the spark module and plug the new lead into the proper spark module terminal.

Most modern appliances have safety features built in, but your gas oven safety valve is arguably the most important. If an electrical appliance malfunctions, it can cause a fire, but a misfiring gas oven could potentially blow up your house. You don"t ​really​ need to know how the safety mechanism works to use your oven, but you may find that it gives you some extra peace of mind.

Broadly speaking, there are two ways a built-in safety mechanism can work. One option is that it remains "open" by default and to shut off if certain conditions are met. That"s how fuses and circuit breakers work in an electrical circuit: Ordinarily, the electricity is free to flow, but if the current grows too large, the fuse or breaker will blow and cut off the circulation of electricity.

The other option is for your safety mechanism to be "closed" by default and allow a device to operate only when the correct conditions are met. That"s how a gas oven safety valve works. Gas ordinarily is prevented from flowing, and if the valve is working correctly, it opens only when you want to light your oven.

Many gas stoves use what"s called a "hot surface igniter," a bar or element (similar to the ones on your stovetop) that gets hot enough to ignite the gas on contact. Gas oven safety valves on stoves with this type of ignition system take a couple of different approaches.

In one approach, a bimetallic strip operates the valve. It harnesses a simple scientific principle: Metals expand and contract at different rates when they"re heated and cooled. If you bond two suitable metals together in one strip, that strip will flex to a predictable degree as the temperature goes up and down. Wall-mount thermostats often use this principle, as do analog oven thermometers and the thermometer in the lid of your gas grill.

As appliance-repair website PartSelect explains, turning on your gas oven causes electricity to flow into the heating element of your hot surface igniter. As the igniter heats up, it warms a bimetallic strip inside your gas oven safety valve. When the igniter reaches its operating temperature, the bimetallic strip opens the valve and allows the gas to flow, igniting as it crosses the heated surface.

According to heating-equipment vendor Anglo Nordic, gas oven safety valves use a variation of that principle to operate. In these stoves, the flow of electrical current through the hot surface igniter becomes the control mechanism. The igniter"s bar is made of a material that offers less and less resistance to electricity as it heats. When it reaches the temperature required to ignite the gas, its resistance becomes low enough to trip the safety valve and open the flow of gas.

More modern ranges use an electrical igniter. When you turn on your oven, the gas begins flowing immediately, and it sends an electrical current to a piezo electric igniter. The current makes the igniter spark (like the manual igniter on your gas grill) and lights the oven"s burner. In this case, the safety valve works in the opposite way: An electronic sensor checks for the heat caused by ignition after a few seconds, and if it"s absent, it will close the valve and shut off the flow of gas.

It"s worth pointing out that not all gas ovens have a safety valve in the conventional sense. Older stoves simply use a pilot light, a small but constant flow of gas, which, in turn, feeds a small, candle-like flame. You essentially ​are​ the safety mechanism in this system: It"s up to you to check that the pilot is lit. When you turn on the gas manually, the small pilot flame ignites the main flame. It"s a mechanically simple system, which makes it durable, and for that reason, you"ll still see it used on commercial restaurant ranges, which must stand up to decades of heavy use.

Kansas Gas Service maintains the natural gas service line from the natural gas main to the meter. It"s the customer’s responsibility to maintain all customer-owned natural gas equipment, including house piping, yard piping, appliances and appliance connectors.

You should be aware that there may be natural gas piping between the meter and your house, or running to outbuildings or other outdoor appliances such as natural gas grills, lights, pool heaters, etc., that are not maintained by Kansas Gas Service.

These pipes may leak as the result of corrosion or damage. Kansas Gas Service recommends that you arrange for periodic inspection of any natural gas piping you own to identify any problems.

During a Full Restoration, it is our policy to restore the appliance to as close to its original cosmetic and mechanical condition as possible. This requires full disassembly of the appliance, addressing all cosmetic and mechanical components inside and out, and rebuilding the appliance from the ground up. The Restoration Process page of our website describes this process in further detail. This restoration process may include replacement of original electrical wiring, insulation and/or some/all mechanical components, but is done in a manner that does not compromise the unit’s original cosmetic integrity. In addition, it is our policy not to retro fit an appliance with non-original features or to attempt to improve upon the original manufacturer’s design. Example #1: gas stoves will not be modified to have electronic ignition systems. [Gas stoves will be fit with an oven safety system (not electrical) to meet gas code requirements unless otherwise instructed by the client. Early 1920s and 1930s gas stoves that originally did not feature an oven thermostat will be fit with one, unless otherwise instructed by the client. These two features are important for safe daily use and can be integrated into each stove without compromising any original design features.] Example #2: Refrigerators will not be modified to have automatic defrost systems where this was not an original design.

During a Mechanical Only (MO) Restoration, only the mechanical systems (i.e. refrigeration system for refrigerators, electrical system for electric stoves, and gas system for gas stoves) are addressed as follows:

Gas stoves: Rebuild fuel rail, rebuild/install thermostat and commercial grade safety valve, clean burners, leak test gas system, calibrate oven(s) and surface burners, set for natural or LP gas.

Post-WWII stoves – check all wiring and replace any damaged or questionable wires, check switches and rebuild/replace where necessary, check thermostat and rebuild/replace where necessary, calibrate oven temperature, check all electrical features for proper operation

Refrigerators: At this time we no longer offer a Mechanical Only service for any type for refrigerators from any period of time.  Due to our overwhelming commitment to full restoration projects, we simply do not have the space, time or manpower to accommodate repairs.  If your refrigerator is in need of a door gasket, cold control, start/run relay, etc., we will be happy to provide you with installation tips, instructions and advice on how to “Do It Yourself.”

Purchasing & Refunds:When purchasing and appliance from the inventory of AntiqueAppliances.com, the unit is priced to be inclusive of the full restoration process. In order to secure an item from our inventory and have the unit slated for restoration, we require a 40% deposit, calculated from the total unit price. Example: If a stove is priced at $7,500.00, the required deposit will be $3,000.00 (40%). Deposits can be made by personal or business check; we also accept Mastercard, Visa and Discover. We do not accept American Express. In addition, we do offer online payment transfers via the Internet Paypal system. And of course we will gladly accept good old “green” cash. Once you select an item from our inventory and your deposit has been paid, the item is tagged for you and removed from our inventory of items that are available and marketed for sale. The unit you select now belongs to you. If you decide, for any reason, to cancel your order with AntiqueAppliances.com, your deposit is not refundable. Your deposit will be retained by our company to compensate for opportunities we may have passed up to sell the item to other interested parties. A further 40% deposit will be required the month we are scheduled to start restoration, leaving a 20% balance due upon completion.If you already own a vintage appliance and want to have the unit placed on our restoration calendar, we require a $500.00 deposit for each item. This deposit can be made in any of the manners described above. Because the item you are placing on our restoration calendar already belongs to you, should you decide to cancel your restoration reservation, your deposit of $500 is completely refundable up until the point we begin restoration. In order to cancel a restoration reservation for an item you already own, you must submit a written request of the cancellation in order to receive your refund. Your written request provides documentation for our file records of the request and who the request was made by. A further 40% deposit based off of our total estimate will be required the month we are scheduled to start restoration. Once we begin restoration, the $500 and 40% payments are nonrefundable.

Replacing/Repairing Damaged and/or Missing Parts:Given the nature of our small industry, original parts can be difficult if not impossible to locate for vintage stoves and refrigerators. Replica parts are equally as scarce if they are mass produced at all. While we will do our best to repair or replace damaged and/or missing parts, we cannot guarantee that we will be able to find original/replica, model specific parts for your vintage appliance. For most projects with damaged parts, the parts can be repaired and refinished. The concern for replacing parts is greatest when key parts, such as range burners, grates, doors, clock assemblies, etc. and refrigerator interior shelving components are missing entirely. Our process for addressing damaged and missing parts is as follows:

Repair and refinish damaged parts. In the case of structural parts (e.g. brackets, sheet metal walls, etc.), this may mean fabricating new parts from comparable, modern materials. Fabrication may extend to machining new component parts such as handles, hinge components, etc. Cast molding is often an option if two identical parts are present, but one is damaged.

If parts cannot be repaired and refinished in a structurally and aesthetically suitable manner, original, period and manufacturer specific parts are sourced from models we have scrapped out. This is also the first option for parts that are missing.

If all of the above steps have been tried and failed, the appliance would be restored without such parts. If such parts are crucial to the functionality of the appliance, (e.g. an oven door that is unique and missing) the probability of repair/replacement is assessed upon providing the initial project estimate. We along with the client will then weigh the suitability of the project as a restoration candidate before the project is slotted for restoration work.

Project Estimates: The estimated cost to restore a vintage appliance, which a client already owns, is provided based off of photos submitted by that client and/or our personal first-hand inspection of the appliance. Please know that this is an estimate and because of changes in industry costs or unexpected conditions experienced during restoration, this estimate can change at any time. Should the estimate change, we will notify you in as timely a manner as possible. Estimates on painted refrigerators and prices for fully restored refrigerators purchased from our inventory assume restoration back to the original color, namely white, unless otherwise discussed and agreed upon. Color change options for painted refrigerators are available via the submission of a color sample(s) by the client, which we will custom match to. Additional charges will apply for custom color jobs. A 40% payment of the total costs on the project when we begin restoration. This payment is to help ensure that your project moves through our restoration process in as timely a manner as possible. This payment is nonrefundable. Should you opt for a porcelain color change on a stove project, we will request an additional payment for the color change charge along with the above 40% at the project start.

Warranty: All of our restored antique appliances carry a 6 month warranty on workmanship. In addition, if there are any new parts installed on the appliance, these parts are warranted for one full year. (Example: Gas stoves are fitted with new commercial grade oven safety valves. These valves are considered new parts and are covered for one full year from the date of appliance installation.) Should your antique appliance require service during the first 6 months, we request that you contact your local appliance service company to determine what repair or adjustment might be necessary.We will gladly work with your servicer to correct any deficiencies and provide any necessary parts. It will be the customer’s responsibility to settle any and all charges presented by a local servicer. A copy of the repair bill must be submitted to AntiqueAppliances.com for reimbursement. Repairs determined to be caused by shipment damage or user abuse are not covered by our warranty and reimbursement will not qualify. Qualification of warranty covered work is based off of the report date, not the estimated or known date of part failure or incident.

Damage Report:If an item is received damaged as a result of shipping and/or delivery, notation of the damage must be made at the time of receipt and must be so noted on the shipper’s bill of laden. Failure to note or report damage at the time of receipt/delivery may result in the inability to have repairs of said damages made with charges for such repairs being absorbed by the shipping agent. AntiqueAppliances.com will always ship a restored antique appliance with full insurance coverage in the amount the unit was purchased for or restored for whichever applies. If a shipper’s bill of laden is signed with no notation of damage, the item is considered to be free and clear of defect and is considered by the shipping agent to be in good condition. If damage is discovered later, the shipping agent will present the signed document indicating it was received in good condition and the insurance coverage for such damages will not apply. Please note, this requires the customer receiving the appliance to remove all shipping wrap and packaging and inspect the appliance at the time of delivery.Any alterations or amendments to these policies should they apply will be noted in each client’s specific file folder when they are discussed with that client.

Note that we are currently reevaluating all of our guides to ranges and our advice on buying them, including learning everything we can about induction stoves and cooktops. This is largely due to changing city and state regulations (video) on installing gas kitchen equipment and to the 2022 Inflation Reduction Act, which introduced the first federal consumer rebates on electric kitchen appliances. However, if you need to buy a new gas stove now, the picks below are all available. And they’re made by companies we trust, so we remain confident in recommending them.

If you just need an inexpensive stove that works, the Whirlpool WFG320M0B offers the best balance of features for a low price. It has one of the better cooktops in this price range, with a stronger power burner than those on most competitors and continuous cast-iron grates (especially uncommon at this price). The oven has a similar capacity to what you get in a pricier stove. But it doesn’t have convection, self-cleaning, or a number pad for control (the lack of these are typical with budget stoves). We found it to be well built, and it has a strong average user rating.

PECO is committed to delivering natural gas safely and reliably to our more than 523,000 gas customers in Southeastern Pennsylvania. This includes actively monitoring our system during storms and other emergencies. PECO"s preparations for storms include strategically positioning gas mechanics near areas of potential flooding and across the entire service area for a quicker response to reported leaks or damages.

Flooding, poor drainage, and rushing water can erode the ground near buried utilities. Excessive water can potentially cause breaks in natural gas mains, allowing water and dirt to enter the system and disrupt service. Excessive snowfall can impact the functionality of the gas service regulator associated with the customer"s meter. It is the customer"s responsibility to ensure that the regulator can vent properly by clearing snow around the meter set.

For PECO to safely make repairs, crews may need to shut off service to certain customers while isolating the damaged gas main. Therefore, gas mechanics will need to access these customers" natural gas meters.

If a customer is not available to provide access, PECO will work with local authorities to gain access to the property and shut off gas service. This can prolong the restoration of natural gas service for all nearby customers.

The time it takes to restore natural gas service depends on the amount of damage to the natural gas mains. Repair durations depend first on flood water receding and then the time it takes crews to clear all water and debris from the gas mains.

Once all the natural gas meters in the area are disconnected and the gas mains repaired, then PECO can reintroduce natural gas to the mains and restore service to individual customers. This requires a gas mechanic to access customers" gas meters to restore service and relight gas appliances.

Maintain adequate clearance around your natural gas meter. Structures such as porches, decks, paving, building additions or other structures should not obstruct the underground service line leading to the gas meter.

Make sure customer-owned natural gas piping and equipment located after the gas meter is well maintained and regularly inspected for corrosion and leaks by a licensed plumber or HVAC contractor.

Immediately report abnormal natural gas pressure, a loss of service, or water in natural gas pipes, equipment, or appliances to PECO at 1-800-841-4141 or (alternate number) 1-844-841-4151.

Contact PECO to arrange an inspection of its gas equipment if flood waters have shifted your home or caused other stresses to the gas pipes, creating the possibility for a natural gas leak.

During a natural gas outage, please make every effort to be available or to make your gas meter accessible to allow a gas mechanic to disconnect service at your gas meter and eventually to restore service and relight your appliances.

If you suspect a gas leak, do not attempt to find the source or to repair it. Leave the area immediately. Then from a safe place contact PECO at 1-800-841-4141 or (alternate number) 1-844-841-4151 to report the leak.

Keep electrical safety in mindWhen dealing with natural gas issues due to floods and storms, you always should keep electrical safety in mind as well:Do not enter a room with standing water, particularly if it covers electrical outlets or cords or appliances plugged into outlets.

Natural gas is odorless until we add mercaptan, an odorant similar to rotten eggs, to help detect leaks. If you smell natural gas or have a natural gas emergency, leave immediately and call us from another location.

Each year, we sponsor contractor workshops to reinforce safety guidelines for construction crews that work around natural gas and electric facilities.

If you know the exact problem with your range—like a shattered glass door or damaged cooktop—you can search online for average repair costs using sites like Angi or Home Advisor.

Otherwise, describe what you’re experiencing in a web search; include the brand and model number. This way, you’ll improve the quality of your results and you’ll be more likely to connect with other range owners who have experienced your exact problem, find a fix on video or social media, or get some sense of what the repair might cost. Problems often occur in clusters within a brand. For example, our most recent member surveys found that a staggering 26 percent of Bluestar pro-style ranges experienced ignition problems, compared with a median of only 9 to 10 percent for all brands.

Once you decide on a repair service, expect a charge for a visit just to diagnose the problem. This will typically be deducted from the cost of your total bill if you use the service to complete your repair, but that’s not always the case. So always review the costs and terms before hiring.

Below is a big-picture look at the data that fuels our interactive tool. In general, for example, electric-smoothtop ranges that cost more are worth repairing because the cost of a typical repair is a smaller proportion of the value of the range. In other words, a regular $212 repair on a low-end electric range rarely makes financial sense after the first few years; you’re better off putting the money toward a new $800 range. But for, say, a more premium $1,250 range, the $212 repair is often worth making for at least a decade.