homeowner safety valve company reviews made in china

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Weeks ago, Aquarion Water Company must have come a’calling—and since I am visitor-proof, they left an urgent notice on our doorknob. By the way, nothing says *urgent* like a white luggage tag on the front door. I was instructed to contact the company immediately regarding a water leak on our property.

Aquarion refused to be ignored, sending a big white van to pay me a visit. They really stepped it up from the white door tag. This time, the dog alerted me to the vehicular presence in the driveway, and that is where I met my fate. I perp-walked out to the technician feeling rather guilty. After a boots-on-the-ground consultation, I was asked a question that no one in New Canaan is prepared to answer in the affirmative: Do you have water line safety valve insurance?

Ummm, no. You mean those silly letters that I throw away every month and say, “Ha, what sucker buys safety valve insurance?” It was made very clear why the insurance is worth the investment and it was painful. All of the sudden, I had become the New Canaan version of Diane Keaton’s character from “Baby Boom,” and was quite literally, drowning in homeownership hell.

That said, I was quoted up to $10,000 if my leak hide-and-seek project was major. This was not what I had bargained for when I threw away all of those safety valve insurance mailers.

Vigo Industries is an importer of Chinese-made bathroom and kitchen products that are branded and sold under the Vigo name. The company offers faucets for the kitchen and bath, and sinks and accessories to coordinate with its faucets. Vigo sources from a variety of Chinese suppliers.

Founded in 2009 by Leonid Valdberg, the company is an importer of Chinese-made bathroom and kitchen products that are branded and sold under the Vigo name.

Vigo offers faucets for the kitchen and bath, and sinks and accessories to coordinate with its faucets. It is somewhat unique as a faucet company in that all of its faucets are single handle. The company offers no two-handle faucets for either kitchen or bath. The mixing cartridge used in many Vigo faucets appears to be from Sedal Technical Ceramics, a cartridge maker chartered in Spain but manufacturing in China. The Sedal cartridge is generally considered good but not great and is commonly found in faucets made in China.

The faucets are, for the most part, straight out of each manufacturer"s and are neither designed nor manufactured expressly for Vigo. Many of the faucets sold by Vigo are also sold by other vendors in the U.S., and both of Vigo"s known faucet manufacturers sell at least some faucets retail under their own brand names in other parts of the world. However, According to a company source, Vigo has started working with its manufacturers to design its own exclusive faucets and about 1/3rd of the sink faucets in Vigo"s lineup are now designed and manufactured just for Vigo.

Cartridge valves are covered for just 5 years from the date of purchase (not the date of installation) and spray assemblies and hoses for a paltry one year. Only the non-moving "structural components" of a faucet are guaranteed for the lifetime of the original owner. These are the parts least likely to break.

understand very well. But Vigo is apparently unable to grasp its potential to boost sales. The company is myopically focused on lowering its warranty liability to the irreducible minimum — definitely the bean-counter"s perspective

The 5-year Vigo cartridge warranty suggests that management has doubts about the longevity and durability of its faucet cartridges, perhaps the most critical component of a faucet. The Chinese-made cartridges Vigo uses are actually fairly good cartridges, made in China by Sedal S.L.U., not the world"s best but certainly not the world"s worst either, and Vigo should have a little more faith in them than its warranty suggests — or use a different cartridge in its faucets. But, if the company believes that its cartridges will last just 5 years, then you as the potential buyer have to assume that the company knows something about the cartridges that you don"t, and perhaps you should be just a little wary.

The short-term cartridge warranty also suggests that Vigo does not plan to stock a large number of this critical part for discontinued models, so if your cartridge fails after 5 years, there is a good chance that Vigo will not have the parts to fix it. A company spokesman has assured us, however, that Vigo does, in fact, have a well-organized and in-depth replacement parts program that can supply needed parts for the foreseeable future, including parts for discontinued models.

We think that five years of warranty support for what is supposed to be a lifetime product is just not enough, and the company lost points in our scoring for its sub-standard cartridge warranty and its requirement that the faucets be installed by a licensed professional to escape voiding the warranty altogether.

In the past, Vigo has had problems with honoring its warranty and post-sale customer support, resulting in an unusually high number of complaints to the Better Business Bureau. This appears to be turning around under the direction of the company"s new technical support manager. The company has applied for and received accreditation by the BBB, and has brought its rating up to an "A-" on a scale of "A+" to "F", quite an astounding reversal.

In our customer support and technical service tests, the company essentially aced everything except long hold times. We consider anything over 3 minutes excessive, and over 10 minutes unacceptable. At our last update, a company spokesman indicated that Vigo is in the process of adding staff to the customer service program, which should reduce hold times to an acceptable level. However, the problems persist, so adding staff was apparantly not the solution.

We are continuing to research the company. If you have experience with Vigo faucets, good, bad, or indifferent, we would like to hear about it, so please contact us or post a comment below.

The company has been very successful, carefully threading its way between the obstacles that impair most faucet-seller success with a carefully selected inventory of stylish products.

Masco was founded in 1929 as Masco Screw Prod­ucts Comp­any by Alex Man­oog­ian, an Ar­men­ian from Smyr­na, Tur­key who fled to the U.S. at age 18 from the Ar­men­ian Geno­cide (1915-1918). The company was renamed Masco Corporation in 1981.

Mr. Manogian"s pleasant demeanor and engaging smile masked one of the shrewdest minds in American industry. Before his death at age 95, he had grown the company into what may be the largest building products company in the world.

Most of Masco"s faucet subsidiaries are manufacturers to some degree or another. Kraus, however, is not a manufacturer – although the company routinely identifies itself as such in its literature and press releases including the release announcing its sale to Masco in which it claimed:

It is evident from our research, however, that the company has no history whatsoever of manufacturing sinks, faucets, or accessories, — exceptional or otherwise. It is purely an importer — a very successful importer to be sure, but nothing more than an importer.

CAE has avoided the limitations of Chinese design by hiring an Italian company, Slide Design, to create its new collection of faucets. They were designed by Slide"s noted industrial designer Itamar Harari. One of these designs, the Edolo faucet, won an iF Design Award in 2016. IF is an international design competition sponsored by iF International Forum Design GmbH since 1953. Kraus does not, however, sell the Edolo faucet.

The company offers two finishes available on almost all faucets: polished chrome and oil-rubbed bronze,. kitchen faucets are available in eleven other finishes some of which are combinations such as chrome with matte black. The pallette for bathroom faucets is more limited and includes two split finishes, brushed nickel with satin nickel and chrome with brushed nickel.

Reviews. These are past customer reviews. Some Kraus faucets have more than 1,000 of them ranging, as you might expect, from five stars to one star, many taken from retail seller websites. The range of reviews seems to be normal, with no indication of manipulation by Kraus to skew the results.

The company has upgraded the length of its warranty from 10 years to a lifetime warranty on some components of its faucets including its finishes. This is a step in the right direction which suggests that the company is gaining more confidence in its products.

This wording of this provision is somewhat confusing. We have never seen an "engine" in a spray head and have no idea to which component the term refers. We have also never seen a sprayhead assembly with its own supply line. Supply lines connect the faucet to the water supply usually at a shutoff valve under the sink. We have never seen one connected directly to a sprayhead assembly.

The company at one time required that all faucets be installed by a licensed and insured "trade professional" experienced "in the installation of bathroom and kitchen manufactured goods." Now such installation is merely "recommended."

The company guarantees to have the parts needed to fix a defective or broken faucet for just five years. Interesting to us is the question of how the company intends to honor its lifetime warranty if, twenty years from now, a Kraus faucet breaks the but company does not have the parts to fix it, having run out of parts after five years.

In a prior report, we identified several legal problems with the Kraus warranty that violated the Mag­nu­son-Moss War­ranty Act (15 U.S.C. §2308), the federal law that dictates the minimum content of and sets the rules for consumer product warranties in the United States, and suggested to the company that it needed a complete rewrite by a lawyer who understood warranty law.

Once a customer service agent is reached, he or she is often unable to provide any more information about a Kraus faucet than is available about the product on the company website.

The company is rated A+ on a scale of A+ to F by the Better Business Bureau, a rating that indicates satisfactory responses to consumer complaints made to the BBB and an impressive improvement over its C rating just a few years ago. Kraus is not, however, BBB accredited.

We are continuing to research the company. If you have experience with Kraus faucets, good, bad, or indifferent, we would like to hear about it, so please contact us or post a comment below.

The safety concerns arise as more appliances, or their components, are manufactured abroad. Almost four of every five recalls in our tally involved products made outside of the U.S., with the majority coming from China. John Drengenberg, safety director with Underwriters Laboratory (UL), which tests and certifies appliances and other products, says there can be a "distance barrier and a language barrier" between U.S. producers and

Industry officials insist that standards are the same whatever the parts" origins, whether made domestically or in China. Whirlpool, which bought Maytag in 2006, says in a statement, "The same safety system applies regardless of the source of our products or components.""

Since our country’s beginning, we have been a land of innovators and dreamers. America was built on dreams, hard work and the ingenuity of its’ people. Our dreams turned into the telephone, the light bulb, TV, the smart phone and put a man on the moon. Our creativity has led to blue jeans, rock and roll, muscle cars and baseball. At Waterstone, we love what we do. Our dreamers take great pride in creating a piece of art in the form of a kitchen or bath faucet and calling it their own. The craftsmanship and attention to detail cannot be duplicated anywhere else. That is why our products are so sought after by designers, architects, high end builders, and homeowners that want the best.

You have 30 days to accept the offer. The 30-day period starts the date the company mails the offer to you. If you do not reply, you are rejecting the offer.

The California Earthquake Authority (CEA) provides most earthquake insurance in California. CEA offers earthquake policies, for homeowners, mobilehome owners, condo unit owners and renters. You cannot buy earthquake insurance directly from CEA you buy it directly from insurance companies that are members of CEA.

You must have a residential property insurance policy in place in order to get a CEA earthquake policy. You must purchase your CEA policy from the same insurance company that you have your residential policy with-see the list of CEA participating insurers here.

The CEA Homeowners Choice policy offers the option of choosing separate coverage for dwellings and personal property, with different deductibles. Even though you can select separate deductibles for dwelling and personal property, the Homeowners Choice policy will not apply both deductibles for the same earthquake claim. This means that CEA waives the personal property deductible if covered damage to your house exceeds the dwelling deductible.

You may be able to buy building code upgrade coverage (now up to $30,000).  CEA homeowners policies include the first $1,500 for emergency repairs with no deductible.

These are not CEA policies. A few companies offer these policies. They are policies that you can buy without buying homeowners insurance from the same company.

Earthquake insurance usually does not cover anything that your homeowners policy already covers. For example, your homeowners policy covers fire damage, even if an earthquake causes the fire. Therefore, your earthquake policy does not cover fire damage.

In some cases your homeowners or renters insurance may specifically cover direct loss due to explosion, theft, or breaking glass caused by an earthquake, even if you do not have earthquake insurance. Ask your insurance agent.

Read your homeowners policy and contact your insurance company whenever an earthquake damages your property. Do not assume that the damage is not covered.

Your insurance company must offer you earthquake insurance even if your property does not meet current Building Code and Health and Safety Code rules about bolting foundations and anchoring water heaters. But you may be charged a higher premium and/or deductible.

You may be able to reduce your premium or deductible by retrofitting to make your home safer and stronger. Your insurance company must tell you in writing about these discounts. Retrofitting can:

An insurance company can deny claims that are not reported within one year. The year starts with a date called the inception of the loss. This is when you first:

If your claim is larger than your deductible, the insurance company will subtract the deductible from their payment. You do not need to spend anything before you can get payment.

Important Point: The contractor knew immediately that Brizio was the top of the line and that I was getting a super high quality product, but they don"t assemble as fast as the normal stuff. So the plumber needs to know what he is doing and take his time. I would imagine some of these negative reviews are due to install problems with plumbers not familiar with the product. They explained to me the extra work that was involved and I couldn"t understand it enough to explain, but I have known this plumber for a long time and trust him, and they aren"t charging me any more money for the extra time they are taking doing this work.

Unfortunately if you are replacing compression type valves you have to recut the pipe to install another one. This is because the crimp ring will be compressed around the existing pipe. The only chance you have of putting a compression type on what you have is removing that plastic escutcheon and cutting the pipe with a mini hacksaw right behind the fitting. Those Dahl valves are excellent BTW. Made in Canada and quality.

I had a plumber I did some side jobs for recommend turning water valves on and off every once and a while to break off the deposits on the valve internally, especially if the shaft is plastic. If too much builds up, you won’t be able to shut it off without breaking the shaft.

I got so annoyed with replacing the crappy valves in the kitchen and bathrooms in my house that I put inline ball valves on the lines in the basement where I could put them directly in copper. That way, I can shut off hot/cold to upstairs, downstairs, basement, and kitchen all individually.

My preference if compression ring was done right first time?? Is to find a stop valve with same thread on comp nut. Don’t disturb the mechanical connection anymore than necessary.. as long as stops are exercised every year or two 1/4 turn are preferred IMO. As others note you can pull ring and recompress maybe twice or so. Nothing between pipe and brass ring, maybe a little dope or grease on outside of ring for lube. I’ve heard pros who go both ways.

The picture of the cutout valve in the “hall bath” makes me think the flex hose fitting has bottomed out (or nearly) on the valve body, seems a bit strange. If you look at your other picture you can clearly see several threads still exposed and this is normal to me, not the final configuration on the hall bath, again not sure what was used (pipe thread vs machine thread) but it does look off.

Lastly, it appears that the valve in the last picture has a nylon valve stem, it could just be they way the picture was taken but if it is it doesn’t sound like a very good idea, just my two cents.

The leak may be happening because of the pipe dope and or Teflon tape you have in both pics. Compression fittings don’t require either and when used can actually break the true seal and cause the leak. ( As do acme threaded fittings). The 1/2″ end going to the faucet shanks don’t require tape either because they have a seated rubber oring. If you’re going to replace the SS braided lines , I suggest Fluidmaster brand. For the supply valves, Dahl’s 1/4 ball valve like you have pictures is a good choice. Before you change out the valve though, try turning it off, cleaning the dope/ tape off, and tighten the packing nut (hex shaped nut behind the handle at base of stem) and that may stop the leak coming from the valve. You can always replace the supply lines with new ones, just clean the tape/dope off of the valves before reinstalling, because like I said, it doesn’t need it.

We replaced a toilet about a year ago and just bought new supply line too from HD. I attached and turned on the valve and it leaked. Ok, no big deal, i went back switched it out and it happened again. At this point i figured I was somehow screwing up this mundane task but again i returned to HD and talked to an older gentleman working there. He said that it was quite common for them to not have a water tight seal and customers return them often. The third one worked just fine and still does. I will look elsewhere next time. They were all Brasscraft braided

Our house has PEX pipes and in several cases no shutoff valves. It only had the manifold in the downstairs closet that shutoff water throughout the house and exterior hose bibs. I couldn’t find shutoff valves for a vanity we replaced so we hired a plumber to finish the job and used SharkBite valves he pushed onto the PEX. Home Depot at that time didn’t carry much SharkBite and neither did Lowes or our local hardware chain City Mill which all 3 carry a huge selection now. I’ve added several Dahl shutoff valves to the toilet water closets and they’re works of art. Love it to they’re not made in china and in Canada.

I no longer frequent supply houses, lowe’s, or HD for anything plumbing once I found Supplyhouse. Their hours and speed of shipping are superb and if you live near one of their warehouses you can pick up (on Sunday between 8 and 4 too!). They carry all of the better products (Dahl, Brasscraft quater turn ball valves, etc.) and their prices are literally the lowest around. They will put everyone else out of business.

On those water stops, if you use Brasscraft, don’t use anything but the 1/4 turn ball valve type. HD and Lowe’s don’t stock them. They carry the non ball valve plastic stem version. Supplyhouse has the higher end true ball valve version.

Or if the original ferrule compression ring is the right size, just file down a bit the short length of copper pipe at the cut end. So the new valve can sit tight with the old ring (the little extra bit of copper pipe sucking out past the ring is mostly not needed, as the ring had already dug into the copper pipe). Clean up all that gunk the idiot plumber used. Compression fittings work based on the soft brass metal minutely deforming and forming a tight seal to the new valve. If the old compression ring is beat up with a bunch of scratches, use one or so winding of Teflon tape between ring and new valve to help things seal. And tighten up.

I second Johann’s recommendation about Sharkbite connections and fittings. I recently had to replace the valve at the wall of our guest-bath toilet and went with Sharkbite from Home Depot. My plumber friend recommended them and claims to use them at his own home.

I like to use pipe dope with my BC compression valves. A very modest swipe around the bevel where the ferrule meets the valve does wonders and does not compromise the seal whatsoever. A common misconception with compression fittings is that the threads are what makes a water tight seal which will certainly lead to people doping or taping the threads for no reason. I’ve used brass craft for years and years and have never been disappointed, especially with 1/4 turns

Brasscraft stop valves (compression type are all I use,made in USA,) on copper I use a little pipe dope on Ferrell (brass ring) on cpvc I wrap Ferrell with teflon tape and tighten on both pipes until I hear them squeak. Very tight.picture of your stop valve brass valve is cocked and not tightened onto pipe squarely. Suggest taking apart and wrapping Ferrell with at least 4 wraps of teflon tape.open valve all the way and then rotate handle counterclockwise just s little bit.and again in my opinion as a hands on master plumber

I always try to buy brass fittings/valves with stainless balls for anything that gets buried in a wall or in a joist cavity. That includes fixtures. You’ll be amazed at the “feel” of a solid brass fixture vs a plastic HD model. Well worth the 20% or so premium a base level model costs vs the HD version.

I like brasscraft valves, but as others have said, there is a commercial grade and a El cheapo grade. Never had an issue with the commercial ones. I’ll also use the inexpensive made in China Eastman valves from my local supplier and haven’t had an issue with them either when properly installed.

I wouldn’t cut the pipe unless it is obviously damaged. Get a heavy duty compression sleeve puller: my favorite is the LASCO 13-2704 (Amazon), but the Pasco 4661 (available from SupplyHouse) is good too. Avoid the faucet handle pullers they say they can pull a compression sleeve. If you’re in the market for another fun plumbing tool, the Ridgid One-Stop wrench is great for stop valves too.

Exercising shut off valves yearly is a must…I have it on my calendar…inside and outside… always better to find a broken valve before you really need it.

There is an independent plumbing supply company very close to my house. Their stuff is top notch. They also provide parking spaces for individual plumbers to park their trucks. Given the size of their building, I’m sure this is where area plumbers go. But every time I go there, no matter for a sump pump or just a fitting, I get the strongest impression that I’m being ripped off. I don’t have any proof, just a gut feeling. So I mostly go to Menards. At least I know what I’m getting.

3) that plastic shaft shut off valve – to a point up above. If you don’t turn them on and off over time between line deposits and the cold shrink age internally – they will break in the shaft which will then leak. SO that whole idea of turn off the water valves when you leave will save you issues later.

Out of the 80 shut-off valves (90% 1/4 turn Brasscraft and 10% Nibco) that I’ve replaced in the past ten years, only two didn’t meet my expectations, and that’s because the plastic in the “solder” fitting melted during installation. Unless permitted by the manufacturer, I would never use pipe dope or Teflon tape on compression fittings for copper pipe. It could prevent the nut from fully compressing the ferrule to the valve. That is what surmise that the corrosion came from your posted picture

I didn’t see it in comments but I wouldn’t recommend the plumber who did that the first time. Supply hoses have rubber seals which seal between the faces of the hose and pipe or essentially small nipple on the stop valve. Same as a garden hose. The threads just hold the two surfaces together. They aren’t tapered threads. On the one with white/yellow dopeThey put Teflon tape on this which just makes it harder to tighten the threads and get a proper seal. Same with most tubular drain fittings. Some pipe dope will help lubricate and seal imperfections or irregularities but doesn’t add much bulk. Need to be careful with dope it doesn’t get in water supply, Can clog small holes in aerators and such.

Ive had good luck with sharkbites under sink. Usually replacing an older leaking valve. The key is proper prep though. Making sure the pipe is very clean, smooth, and deburred. With old pipes I usually wipe with isopropyl to remove old gunk, and use a very fine emery cloth to polish the end of the pipe up. I usually also use a deburring tool on the exterior of the pipe to chamfer the end, especially if I cut it because pipe cutters leave a burr that can damage the oring in a sharkbite.

Turn off main supply before using a shutoff under a sink to stop the water (Don’t rely on a valve that has sat there for a decade, or longer, to suddenly fully function).

I second Roberts comment… I always sweat fit the valve body. Over time if it fails to fully seal or leaks around the shaft I will remove the core, clean the seat with fine Scotchbrite then swap out the core. Its not that I don’t trust the compression and sharkbites as much as I don’t trust the homeowner who has his buddy come over to help him “quick fix” the valve by muscling it closed the wrong way.

The break might be occurring a direct result of the channel dope or potentially Teflon tape you have in the two pics. Pressure fittings don’t require either and when utilized can really break the genuine seal and cause the hole. ( As do top strung fittings). The 1/2″ end-setting off to the fixture shanks don’t require tape either in light of the fact that they have a situated elastic oring. In case you will supplant the SS interlaced lines , I propose the Fluidmaster brand. For the stockpile valves, Dahl’s 1/4 ball valve like you have pictures is a decent decision.

There are 5 engineers, a QC&QA team with 9 workers, One laboratory, two sales departments, one branch in Shanghai, and one in HK. Our core business is valves, heating systems, pipe fitting, bibcock, plumbing works, thermostatic, stainless steel 304, and SUS316 products, which are related to water works for plumbing supply and used water drainage systems.

I purchased a 12 year warranty, high end Whirlpool WATER HEATER (OR SO I THOUGHT AT THE TIME) through Lowe"s in 2014. Model ND50T122-403. Six years and multiple service calls later it is broken again, this time for the final time. I am ripping this garbage out. So livid with this company that could give a rip about their customers. Three years in to my "12 year warranty" it started giving me problems. Horrible HORRIBLE customer service. They will insult your intelligence. Whirlpool will not honor the warranty or stand behind their product. They just take your money and basically give a shrug of the shoulders or worse blame you for THEIR TERRIBLE product failing. It may be unscrupulous and unethical but I guess saves them a pile of money which is what they seem to only be out.

The Service Tech that came for the 4th time to repair it says they see this all the time in Whirlpool water heaters. It"s a Design Flaw they say. I don"t know about all that. I just know when I have been swindled. The electronics are garbage. The pilot light when it goes out is not easily reset as others have mentioned on this site. Will stay lit for while and then shuts down. Whirlpool says, despite reams of evidence to the contrary it "must be a safety issue in the install," which they have absolutely zero evidence of therefore, they are not honoring the warranty. They are Blaming the installers, according to our service techs who tried to order the part that"s supposed to be under warranty.

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