hot water heater safety valve leaking manufacturer

A leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve is a major concern, especially if it’s the first time dealing with this problem. While some people tend to panic and get help immediately, others may just shrug their shoulders and assume that the leak is a common occurrence. However, there are many causes of leaks in water pressure relief valves. And all these must be addressed immediately given the high risks of property damage and hazards that can occur if the issue is ignored.

The pressure relief valve gives steam and water a chance to escape when either the pressure or temperature in the water tank gets too high. A malfunctioning valve can cause the water heater to explode and is the major cause of water heater explosions. In water heater pressure relief valves, the valve is set to open when the pressure exceeds 150 psi.

A leaking valve is not always a broken valve. In some cases, a water heater’s pressure relief valve may leak because it is functioning as intended. As excess pressure is relieved out of your water heater system, some water may leak. This necessitates the need to test the pressure in your water heater.

The process is not complicated. However, if you are not comfortable checking the water pressure, you can always contact your technician. To test the pressure, use a pressure gauge and attach it to either the cold-water pipe or the hot water pipe. However, one of the easiest places to connect the pressure gauge is the outdoor hose faucets. For this, ensure you purchase a pressure gauge that is designed for garden hoses.

Turn off all water outlets and faucets. The pressure reading should be between 40 psi- 80 psi. If the gauge shows a psi reading of 150 and above, then the cause of the leak could be high pressure. If the water pressure is normal and the leak is persistent, then high water pressure is not the cause of the leak.

If you get a high-pressure reading, then you could be dealing with a closed plumbing system issue. This means that when the water is heated, the pressure increases as it should. But with nowhere to go, the valves open to relieve the pressure. Luckily, this can be solved by installing an expansion tank that gives the pressure an outlet other than a pressure relief valve.

Although rare, your water heater’s pressure relief valve could be leaking as a result of excessively high temperatures. However, the water has to be near the boiling point. To check the water temperature, ensure you turn on the hot water faucet. Run the water for one minute and use a meat thermometer to take the temperature reading. The temperature should be around 120 degrees. If more than this, then you need to have the water heater checked. The water temperature would need to be close to 212 degrees to set off the relief valve.

While this is an uncommon occurrence, it is not far-fetched. Your technician could have used a pressure valve for another appliance since they have the same function. However, these other pressure relief valves are set to go off at a lower psi. For instance, boiler pressure valves go off at 30 psi. If installed in a water heater, you are likely to get leaks immediately after installation. As such, if you have had your water heater for years and only experienced the leaks after a long period, then this is an unlikely cause of the leak.

A slight leak may occur if your water heater’s pressure relief valve has not been opened for a while, say a few years. While this leak is normal and may not be an indicator of a problem with the water heater system, you may need to replace the valve if the leak becomes more serious. It is cheaper to replace the entire valve than to repair it and have to deal with the same problem later on.

A leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve could also be caused by a faulty pressure relief valve. While pressure relief valves barely break down, excessive wear and improper installation can cause extensive damage. Unfortunately, a faulty pressure valve can not be repaired and must be replaced. However, the cost of pressure valves is affordable and ranges around $30.

Know your water heater and how it functions– Water heaters can be intimidating, especially for people with less technical know-how.  Understand what every part of the system plays in heating water such as the water shutoff valve, drain valve, thermostat, and pressure relief valve. This eases the maintenance routine and ensures you have a fair understanding of any malfunctions.

Insulate the pipes and the water heater– By insulating both the cold water and hot water pipes, you get to prevent condensation while also reducing heat loss. Also, insulating the water heater helps to keep water hot when surrounded by cold air.

Carry out regular maintenance– Inspect your water heater monthly, ensuring that all valves and pipes are in good shape. This also helps you catch corrosion and leaks early enough before they turn out to be bigger problems. And every year, carry out a water heater flush. Given that you cannot pinpoint all problems, have a qualified technician inspect the system annually.

Regardless of the possible cause of a leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve, please contact a qualified plumber as soon as possible. And if you think it’s a problem that you can solve without getting help, ensure you have a qualified plumber confirm that the system is performing optimally after. Water heater issues should not be taken lightly as they can cause more issues, even explosions.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

This article explains hot water thermal expansion that can cause leaks, drips, or discharges from pressure relief valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, or TP valves found on heating boilers, water heaters.

Watch out: a dripping or frequently spilling T&P valve is dangerous because those very leaks can eventually cause the valve to clog and then to fail to open when it should.

See HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE - for an explanation of just how much pressure increase to expect when heating water. In explaining why the relief valve on a water heater may be dripping, American Water Heater Co. [1] explains:

Note: While a 125 psi pressure relief valve on cold water supply piping is fine to protect piping from rupturing, if building incoming water pressures are too high, rather than relying just on a relief valve (wasting water) we prefer to install a pressure reducing/control valve at the building entering water supply piping. Limit incoming water pressure to 60 psi at a typical one or two story residential home.

Watts (2011) suggests two methods for testing for thermal expansion of hot water as the cause of a TP valve drip. The text below is adapted from that source.

If the TPR valve is leaking due to thermal expansion of hot water, simply opening a water faucet or fixture anywhere in the plumbing system will immediately stop the drip.

That"s because opening the hot water faucet reduces the system pressure back to normal operating levels - we are no longer heating water in a "closed" piping and tank system.

Why would opening either a hot or cold water faucet work? Because when no water is running, the entire plumbing system is "closed" - unless there is an expansion tank already installed on the hot water heating system to accommodate thermal expansion, heating water in the water cylinder (water heater for Yanks) causes an increase in system pressure.

Install a pressure gauge on a convenient hose bib such as at the washing machine hook-up or if weather permits, outdoors. Install & use the pressure gauge to monitor system water pressure over at least a full 24-hour period. You don"t have to sleep by it.

If you select a pressure gauge with a re-settable "telltale" needle, the gauge"s re-settable indicator will indicate the highest pressure that has been reached by the water system since the water pressure test gauge was installed.

SeeMEASURE WATER SYSTEM PRESSURE & PRESSURE MAXIMUM for tips on how to make or buy an inexpensive recording-type water pressure test gauge for this purpose.

where we describe both hot water expansion tanks and hot water expansion relief valves designed to handle thermal water pressure increases and thus to stop dripping TP valves.

Watch out: get advice from a licensed plumber and your local water supplier. Never remove or plug a leaky pressure/temperature relief valve on a water heater - doing so risks dangerous or even fatal

See RELIEF VALVE LEAK DUE TO EXPANSION TANK where in a series of steps a homeowner figures out that a leaky TPR valve is due to the failure of the internal bladder of an expansion tank attached to the boiler.

If the building water pressure gauge reading is ever found at 80 psi or higher, you will want to install a water pressure regulator at the point where water supply enters the building.

If your building already has a water pressure gauge installed, it may be defective or it may be set too high. The articles listed just below discuss how to adjust a water pressure regulator:

An alternative to installing or changing a water pressure regulator when building water pressure is occasionally 80 psi or higher is the installation of an expansion tank to temporarily absorb that pressure increase.

Proper use of an expansion tank can help avoid unnecessary opening of the pressure/temperature relief valve on a hot water heating tank or a hot water heating boiler.

You go through alot of effort to explain how heated water expands and the resulting increase in pressure. All that is well and good for theory. In a domestic (North American) water supply system, to the best of my knowlege there is nothing to prevent the expanding water/pressure from the hot water heater from just backing up into the supply plumbing and hence the water pressure in the hot water heater would NEVER exceed the supply pressure. Or is there a required one way valve somewhere in the system I am not aware of say in the hot water heater?

Domestic water systems in most cities are required to have a backflow preventer or check valve on the system. So when no water is being run the system is in effect closed.

My original interest and intent was to show that the actual expansion in volume from heating water is actually very small. Nevertheless, on some systems, the water heater can cause enough of a pressure increase that some installations include a small water heater expansion tank.

Where expanding hot water pressure is causing trouble the common solution is the installation of a small expansion tank, usually on the hot water supply line above the water heater, though it could go almost anywhere so long as it"s not isolated from the heater by a shutoff valve.

Thermal expansion occurs as domestic water is heated. Left unchecked, the resulting pressure increase can cause relief valve discharge and other potentially hazardous conditions. Therm-X-Trol® expansion tanks absorb this expanded water, keeping water pressure at a safe level.

Water heater manufacturers and plumbing codes require the installation of an expansion control device if a backflow preventor, pressure reducing valve or check valve is installed in the domestic supply line.

Watch out: a leaky relief valve on a water heater, heating boiler, or any other closed vessel is dangerous. Leaks ultimately can lead to relief valve clogging, failure, and worse, BLEVE EXPLOSIONS. Beginning at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS we describe all of the causes of and cures for leaky relief valves or TP valves.

ANSI BS 7074-1:1989, Application, selection and installation of expansion vessels and ancillary equipment for sealed water systems. Code of practice for domestic heating and hot water supply (British Standard)

This standard covers the test methods and performance requirements applicable for waterheater supply shutoff valve with a thermal expansion control valves for use on closed plumbing systems.

This European Standard specifies, dimensions, materials and performance requirements (including methods of test) for expansion valves, of nominal sizes from DN 15 to DN 40, having working pressures 1) from 0,1 MPa (l bar) to 1,0 MPa (10 bar).Expansion valves are intended for fitting to the cold water supply of storage water heaters, having a maximum distribution temperature of 95 °C, for all energy sources.

Expansion valves do not control the temperature and alone does not constitute the protection required for storage water heaters. Expansion valves limit pressure, in the water heaters to what they are fitted, that is produced by thermal expansion of the water .NOTE : The use of the device specified in this Standard does not override the need to use controls (e.g. thermostats and cut-outs) which act directly on the power sources of water heaters.

"THERM-X-TROL® Water Heater Expansion Tanks", [web page] Amtrol,1400 Division Road, West Warwick RI USA 02983, Tel: 800-426-8765, Website: www.amtrol.com, retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/thermxtrol.html

"THERMAL EXPANSION TANKS for POTABLE WATER, Installation & Operation Instructions" [PDF], Models ST-5 through ST-201V & Models T-5 through T-12, Amtrol, Op. Cit., retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/thermxtrol/9015087_06_16_Thermal_Expansion_Tank_IO_.pdf

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

Similar products manufactured by Watts are described at WATER HEATER THERMAL EXPANSION PRODUCTS - WATTS [PDF] https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Watts-Thermal-Expansion-Products.pdf

My hot water tank has a Thermal Expansion Control Valve installed on the cold water intake line (rather than an expansion tank). In the past 2-3 days, I have noticed that there is a small amount of water constantly draining out of this Valve/Tube.

The leakage is constant, even during/after a long hot shower, which presumably would drain a lot of the hot water out of the tank and temporarily stop any thermal expansion/condensation. It is important to note that the T&P valve on the water heater itself is fine, there is no leak or release of pressure/water happening there.

(Why else would it still leak when the hot water tank is being drained and cold water is entering the tank?). Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this? I"m pretty sure I should be calling in for a repair, but unsure how urgent. (Am I at risk of a BLEVE explosion given the leak is constant, even when the tank should not be up to temp/pressure and even the pipe between the tank and the valve feels cold?).

It is possible on SOME water heaters to set the temperature above 210°F (99°C) but in my experience that would be unusual - you"d have probably scalded everyone using the hot water system.

1. It is already telling us that (usually) there is an unsafe condition such as pressure too high (water tank can blow up in a BLEVE explosion) or temperature too high (someone can be scalded - burned)

2. If it"s dripping just because the valve itself is old and defective the risk is that scale clogs the valve, it stops relieving, and then you"re missing a critical life-safety device.

the hot water heater has been shut down about one year , I lit the polite then went back a few hours later when I noticed the pressure relieve valve was spraying water out. so I shut the gas off. not sure what"s going on. ?

Continue reading at HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS for a solution to thermal expansion leaks at relief valves on water heaters, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1] "Residential Electric Water Heater Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide", American Water Heater Co., October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source: americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf [copy on file] [Technical review requested 1/25/2011]

[3] Pounds of lime deposited vs. temperature and hot water usage: see Purdue Bulletin #74 (also provided by A.O. Smith in the article below). Purdue"s chart shows the number of pounds of lime deposited per year as a function of the water usage in gallons per day, with an assumed 10 grains of water hardness.

[4] "When, Why, and How to Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Glass-Lined Water Heaters (for non glass-lined tanks, consult water heater manufacturer)" PDF provided by A.O. Smith Water Products Company - hotwater.com/lit/training/4800r9.pdf 800-433-2545 - 01/07/2009.

[6] A.O. Smith"s Form No. 4778* All about Deliming Coil-Type/Tube-Type Commercial Water Heaters and Hydronic Boilers *Normally supplied when ordering Part No. 4930 Motorized Deliming Pump Kit

[7] "Building Owner Water Heater Safety Notice", Building Department, City of Colleyville TX, web search 09/24/2010, original source: http://www.colleyville.com/dmdocuments/Building%20

Water heater safety is imperative to the occupants of a building or structure. If improperly installed, water heaters can be detrimental to the structure, as well as being potentially fatal to its occupants. The proper installation of a water heater is so important that according to Texas State Law all water heater installations must be inspected by a state licensed plumbing inspector.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

On the side or top of your water heater tank is a valve connected to a metal or plastic discharge tube pointing downward. The valve is called a T&P valve, or TPR valve, for "temperature and pressure relief."

If all goes well, a TPR valve never gets used intentionally except during testing. But in the event of an emergency or malfunction, this valve is of critical importance. It can potentially prevent your water heater from exploding. Understanding how a T&P valve works will help you keep your water heater in tip-top shape and prevent possible damage to your home.

A T&P valve is a valve with an attached tube located on the outside of a water heater. The valve provides relief to the water heater if the pressure exceeds normal operating limits, usually 150 psi.

Mandated by all plumbing codes, the T&P valve relieves excess temperature and pressure in a water heater if either reaches a critical point. A water heater is a closed system, and thermal expansion is an inescapable fact of both normal and abnormal water heater functioning.

In a standard water heater, the water is heated by a gas burner or electric elements. As the water reaches temperatures between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, both the water and the water heater"s metal tank expand.

Some expansion is normal, but too much expansion is unsafe. When the temperature reaches 210 degrees or the pressure reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch), a properly functioning T&P valve opens and expels hot water and steam through the discharge tube.

When you purchase a water heater, the T&P valve generally comes pre-installed. A threaded inlet is welded onto the side of the tank. This inlet cannot be removed or replaced. The T&P valve is screwed clockwise onto that inlet.

Because the T&P valve is rarely used, mineral build-up can cause it to stiffen over time. This is a significant safety hazard because, in the event of a temperature or pressure spike, the T&P valve may not open as it should and the water heater might explode.

Water heater manufacturers recommend regular checking of the T&P valve. Wear closed-toe shoes to avoid scalding. Except for a bucket, no tools are required.

Before you begin, make sure you know where the shut-off valve of your tank is. It"s usually located on the cold water feed, on the right side inlet on top of the tank.

Release the lever and let it snap back to its original position. If the lever does not snap back into place, the valve is faulty and must be replaced.

In most cases, there are two problems you might have to address with the T&P valve: a valve that leaks by constantly dripping or a valve that sticks and doesn"t open and close properly.

When a T&P valve is leaking, it may be due to the valve not being properly seated in the threaded opening of the tank. This is especially likely if the leaking occurs immediately after an old valve is replaced. This can be remedied by shutting off the water heater and letting it cool down completely, then removing and rethreading the valve into the tank"s opening.

If the valve is leaking due to dirt or sediment trapped in the relief port, pull the metal spring lever back again and discharge water into the bucket. Once the lever snaps back again, if the water fails to stop completely, shut turn the gas valve to the off position and shut the water off to replace the valve.

A water heater that periodically discharges hot water and steam from the T&P valve may be set to a water temperature that is too high. Make sure that the water temperature setting is in the normal recommended range—about 120 degrees Fahrenheit—or no more than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

When stuck downward, the valve cannot provide relief if the system reaches maximum pressure. As a result, the water heater tank might rupture. When stuck in a fully extended position, the T&P valve will continually leak water down through the discharge tube, potentially flooding the home.

The stickiness of the valve can sometimes be remedied by simply opening and closing the lever several times. Jiggle the T&P valve by gently pulling the lever towards you. Much like jiggling a toilet handle, this action may be enough to unstick the valve. If this does not fix the problem, replace the valve.

However, some caution is necessary whenever working with a water heater, because the T&P valve can become damaged if the water heater has exceeded maximum pressure or temperature levels. If you suspect a pressure-related problem with your water heater tank, hire a licensed plumber to have the water heater inspected.

It can be all too easy to forget about your water heater when everything appears to be working correctly. However, a stuck or faulty pressure relief valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to reach dangerous levels — with potentially explosive results. Therefore, testing your water heater pressure relief valve should be at the top of your home maintenance checklist.

You don"t need to be a professional plumber to check your water heater"s safety mechanisms. With the right knowledge, even novice DIY-ers can test their water heater pressure relief valves.

A water heater pressure relief valve is exactly what it says on the tin: a safety mechanism that prevents excessive pressure from building up in your water heater"s tank. Without it, there would be a risk of the tank bursting and flooding your house. A bursting water tank can also cause serious injury and damage to your home"s structure, so keeping the pressure relief valve in good working order is essential.

Pressure inside your water tank occurs when the water expands and produces steam as it heats. The hotter the water, the greater the potential for high pressure. Although some pressure is normal and can escape through the pipes supplying your fixtures, the pressure relief valve activates when the pressure exceeds safe levels. It releases some hot water and steam until the pressure level normalizes.

A water heater pressure relief valve is a short, flat lever attached to a pipe running through the water heater. Its location varies depending on what water heater model you have, but you can usually find it above the tank or high up on one of the sides.

Sometimes, a water heater"s pressure relief valve can get stuck due to a build-up of deposits. Corrosion can also damage the valve and stop it from working correctly. A stuck or broken valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to exceed the safe limit, so it"s crucial to test it regularly.

You can test your water heater pressure relief valve by opening it slightly with a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Don"t force the valve open if you feel resistance. You"ll know that your valve is working properly if you can see or hear water and gas escaping. If you can"t see water escaping, or you can"t turn the valve easily, it"s time to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve. You should also call a plumber if you see signs that the valve is leaking, such as water pooling on the floor under the tank.

Sometimes, a water heater pressure relief valve will start leaking after you test it, even if the test shows that it"s working correctly. You can often solve this problem by gently opening and closing the valve a few times to remove any deposits stopping it from shutting. Call a plumber to check and repair the leak if this doesn"t work.

You should test your water heater pressure relief valve once or twice each year. The more often you check the valve, the higher the chances of detecting a problem early and preventing a costly leak or burst tank.

One of the most effective ways to prevent problems with your water heater"s pressure relief valve is to ensure that the drain line is installed correctly. It should angle downwards and match the valve"s exhaust port size to allow water to drain properly and prevent corrosion. It"s also essential to use a drain line made from heat-resistant material, like copper. You should call a plumber to replace the drain line if you"re concerned that your installation is incorrect.

Insulating the drain line can stop it from freezing in cold weather. A frozen drain line will stop the pressure release valve from functioning correctly, even if it"s otherwise in good condition.

When you open a water heater pressure relief valve, the water that drips out will be very hot. Therefore, it"s essential to wear protective gloves and eyewear and avoid opening the valve all the way. You may also wish to consider wearing protective clothing to protect your skin against burns.

You will need to replace your water heater pressure relief valve if it"s stuck or damaged. A plumber can tell you whether it"s best to repair the valve or replace it altogether. Furthermore, it"s wise to replace the valve every five years or so, especially if it hasn"t been tested recently.

A leak from a water heater can be a source of major concern. In addition to causing water damage in the area around the water heater, a water leak typically indicates a more serious problem with your San Antonio water heater. Leaks should be addressed immediately. In some cases, you may notice a leak coming from what looks like an overflow pipe attached to your water heater.

Since the condensate overflow pipe for air conditioners looks similar, the vertical pipe on water heaters is often confused for an overflow pipe. However, this pipe is actually what’s known as a temperature and pressure relief valve drain pipe. Keep reading to learn more about water heater leaks and what to do specifically if you notice a leak coming from the pipe attached to this valve.

A temperature and pressure relief valve does just what its name suggests: relieves temperature and pressure from a water heater. If the internal pressure in your hot water heater reaches or exceeds 150 pounds per square inch, or if the temperature of the water exceeds 210 degrees Fahrenheit, the temperature and pressure relief valve will open.

When it opens, hot water comes rushing out of the water heater and through the temperature and pressure relief valve drain pipe. This release of water prevents the water heater from exploding due to excess pressure and temperature. Given this crucial function, it’s important that you ensure the proper operation of your temperature and pressure relief valve at all times.

Before moving on to various leaking scenarios, we at Beyer Plumbing want to offer a quick word on maintaining your temperature and pressure relief valve.

On a regular basis, you want to check your relief valve for leaks, which could indicate that your relief valve is wearing out. Additionally, you need to test your relief valve at least once a year to ensure it’s able to open when necessary. If age has caused your relief valve to become stuck in the closed position, it will be easy for pressure to build in your water heater, leading to a potential explosion.

If you test your relief valve and notice it isn’t operating properly, therefore, it’s crucial that you reach out to Beyer Plumbing to allow us to replace the valve.

It’s important to understand that a leak from your water heater can have many different sources. Occasionally, what looks like a leak is simply caused by condensation that pools around your hot water heater due to the cold water supply line.

If you notice this condition, it’s typically indicative of nothing more than humid air. While you should put a towel around the water heater to prevent water damage, you likely won’t need any repairs from Beyer Plumbing. However, there are many other causes of leaks that do require repairs. Here are some of the most common causes of leaks.

Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve: Since this article focuses on the ins and outs of the temperature and pressure relief valve, we will list that cause first. The seal in these relief valves can wear out over time, causing a leak from your water heater.

Given its important role in regulating pressure, the relief valve is put under a lot of stress and strain, meaning it may need to be replaced as often as every three to five years. While you can obtain the materials to complete this repair yourself, it’s best if you have someone from Beyer Plumbing complete the repair to ensure it’s completed safely and correctly.

Of course, a leak from your temperature and pressure relief valve could also indicate a more serious issue of excess pressure or temperature in your water heater. While the possible causes of this condition will be discussed later in this article, suffice it to say that any problem that produces excess pressure is one that needs professional assistance from Beyer Plumbing.

Supply Line Leak: Another possible leak source is the supply lines leading to and from your water heater. Since these pipes require a watertight connection to prevent leaks, any degradation in that seal can cause water to leak on top of and around your water heater. It’s important to check your supply lines and connections for corrosion at least once a year to ensure there aren’t any problems brewing.

Water Heater Drain: The drain on your water heater is another common point of failure that can cause leaks. This device is used to drain the water in your water heater to help prevent scale deposits on the inside of the tank.

At times, the gasket that helps keep the water in the tank when the drain is closed can wear out, leading to a leak. Considering the location of the drain, you’ll want to be careful during repair or replacement to ensure the large quantity of water is drained away from your home.

Tank Rust: Since water heaters are made of metal, they can eventually rust through, leading to leaks. Though water heaters are equipped with devices to help slow down corrosion, it can still occur if your water heater is especially old. Once a water heater has been rusted through, the only option is to replace the unit with a new one from Beyer Plumbing.

Now that you understand some of the possible causes of leaks from your water heater, we’ll discuss one of the most serious: leakage from the temperature and pressure relief valve due to excess pressure or temperature in your water heater. While it’s easy to understand the important role of the temperature and pressure relief valve, you may be wondering how pressure can build up in your water heater in the first place.

One of the most common causes of excess pressure in a water heater is simply having the temperature set too high. Since water expands as it’s heated, higher-temperature water occupies more volume, which, in the confines of a water heater, results in increased pressure. If the pressure increases too much, your relief valve will activate, releasing water through the drain pipe. Therefore, it’s important to keep your temperature set no higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit at all times.

Another possible cause of high pressure in your water heater is variations in the pressure of the water that comes into the water heater. If the source of water experiences an increase in pressure, when it is further expanded due to heating, it will result in excess pressure that must be relieved.

At Beyer Plumbing, we care about your safety and comfort. That’s why we take great care in inspecting and maintaining your water heater. If you experience a water heater leak, we can investigate the source of the leak and get it repaired as soon as possible. We can also take care of your other plumbing needs, including clogged drains, leaky faucets, and broken toilets.

For 30 years, we have been serving our community with top-notch service and professionalism. We operate on three core values: trust, integrity, and relationships, and you can be sure we apply those core values to each and every project we complete. As proud members of the Texas Air Conditioning Contractors Association and proud recipients of an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau, we encourage you to give us a call today to get your plumbing and HVAC needs addressed. We water heater installation we use brands like Rheem but service all makes and models.

That little puddle of water around the water heater has you worried. It doesn’t seem to get bigger and sometimes it looks like it’s altogether disappeared.

It may be therelief valveon your heater. Commonly referred to in the trades as a T&P valve (temperature and pressure relief valve), this little fella has a very important job to do.

Have you ever seen that insurance TV commercial where the water heater explodes through the roof of the house and winds up in the street out front? If not – Google it. It’s a good illustration of what can happen if the T&P valve is not working properly.

That little brass valve on the side or top of your water heater is designed to let water or steam out of your water heater when the temperature or pressure inside exceeds the safe operating limits.

If you have abackflow preventeron the water service coming into your house, and you have no, an improperly installed, or a defective expansion tank on your water heater, the pressure in the tank will exceed the operating limits of the heater every time it heats up and the relief valve will do its job—it will release the extra pressure in the form of hot water through the valve and onto the floor.

The next reason might be afaultyrelief valve. As the water heater gets older, the rubber washer in the bottom of the relief valve gets harder and harder.

Then when you test the relief valve during periodic maintenance, the washer may crack or crumble just enough to create a leak. If you don’t test the relief valve periodically (you do test it, right?) then the washer may even stick to the bottom of the bottom of the valve (called the seat) and crack or crumble the next time you do test it. The solution is to replace the relief valve.

At Yes! Plumbing we find several faulty relief valves a year when we are doing our yearly free maintenance services for our Club Members. For this reason we carry them on the trucks and are prepared to replace them if they turn out to be faulty when tested.

We"ve all been there. It"s a cold winter morning and you head down to the water heater to get your water going for your morning coffee only to find water all over the floor. Your water heater is leaking!

The average household"s leaks can account for nearly 10,000 gallons of water wasted every year and ten percent of homes have leaks that waste 90 gallons or more per day. Water heaters are meant to provide water for many uses but they can also have issues that require immediate attention if not addressed in time. Although water heaters are usually durable, they are still prone to water leaks which can cause significant damage to the surrounding area.

Are you ready to put a stop to your hot water heater leaking water and wasting money? In this article we"ll answer some of the most common questions asked regarding a leaking water heater, including:

In general, it"s a good idea to call a emergency plumbing company if you have any questions about the cause of your water heater leak. The most frequent reasons why water heaters leak are:

Water heaters with a tank style that are more than 15 years old leak more frequently than heaters with digital controls. As the system ages, components wear down, the water loses heat over time, and leaks occur more frequently. Water heaters may leak as a result of age. Rust forms in the tank, resulting in corrosion and permitting water to escape via fractures. When a water heater inevitably reaches the end of its usefulness, the only option is to replace your water heater.

The drain valve is used to empty the tank during maintenance visits and replacements by plumbers and homeowners. The drain valve is also utilized by homeowners when cleaning the tank is required. Over time, the valve becomes loose, allowing water to flow through. Leaks from the bottom of the valve, on the other hand, suggest that the component isn"t waterproof. This situation calls for the installation of a new drain valve. Homeowners may replace this themselves, but it"s better to get advice from a professional plumber before you do so.

Water heaters are affected by naturally occurring water pressure, just like any other plumbing component. The hot water that generates steam and fills the vacant space causes pressure in water heaters. When the steam has no where to go, the pressure becomes too high. Any crack in the heater allows water to escape, relieving some of the pressure. When the water temperature is set too high or when water enters the system at large pressures, the heater"s pressure rises.

Leaks in water heaters are also caused by the temperature and pressure relief valve, commonly known as the T&P valve. This valve aids in the reduction of pressure within the tank. When this valve is faulty, the tank"s pressure rises. In some cases, the valve just needs to be tightened. However, if the device is defective, it will need to be replaced. Before you tackle T&P valve concerns, make sure the tank is depressurized.

A water heater"s inlet connection and outlet connection allow hot water to enter your water fixtures. These connections loosen over time, allowing hot water to enter your faucet. It"s unusual for there to be any other problem with the inlet and outlet connections.

To complete its operations, a tank water heater has two shells. The external shell insulates the internal shell, which contains the water. A final layer of metal covers both shells. Age and deterioration are responsible for most tank leaks from the inside of the shell. This sort of leak isn"t visible from the outside of the tank.

Water heaters collect sediment at the bottom of the tank as they age. People who clean out the water from their water heater seldom encounter this problem. Sediment accrues until fractures form, allowing water to seep through. If you have a leaking water heater, it"s time to replace it. Water heaters are expensive, so keep them clean.

Some water heaters include an additional tank to extend the quantity of water they can store. Glass is sometimes used to line the tanks. Minerals accumulate and calcify on the glass over time, forming mineral deposits. This can happen if the water is too hot, or when it cools down. When the water gets hotter, it grows in size and puts strain on the glass, resulting in tiny fractures. In both situations, replacements are required.

As a sacrificial component of the water heater, an anode rod attracts corrosion products and keeps the water heater safe. When the anode rod"s quantity depletes due to excessive corrosion, however, water heater leaks occur when it is no longer able to attract corrosive materials. There"s a leak between the anode rod and the space where it previously was. Any leaks are readily addressed by replacing the anode rod quickly.

If a water heater is leaking, there"s a good chance water is dripping in the area of the leak and creating a potentially hazardous situation. Homeowners should be aware of water leaks inside or around their water heaters so they can take action to fix the problem before water damage occurs.

A water heater is leaking if there are signs of water outside the water tank - often pools or puddles around the water heater. Even if no water has spilled out, it"s possible the water heater is still leaking if soggy drywall or spots on ceilings are visible.

If water isn"t visibly leaking, water heaters can still be at risk for water damage. A water heater may have an internal leak if water is dripping or leaking from the water tank"s pressure relief valve - a device used to protect the water heater from being damaged by excess water pressure.

A leaking water heater can cause serious water damage, even flood a basement, if it goes unfixed for an extended period of time. Even water leaking from the water heater surface isn"t safe - water can pool and create an environmental hazard for wildlife living nearby, as well as attract mold growth.

Problems with a water heater usually become more severe when water damages other parts of the home or building. Water leaking from the water heater can damage home exteriors, walls and surfaces.

There should be two pipes on top of your water heater. One will be hot to the touch and the other will be cold. Some producers mark them with red and blue collars or paint, as well as indicating which is which.

The water supply line is the cold one. When hot water is used, it allows cold water to enter your water heater. Look for a shutoff valve along the route; most water heaters include one on the water supply line.

Although the majority of water heaters feature a shutoff valve on their water supply line, some do not. In this situation, you"ll need to use your home"s main shut-off valve to turn off the water. This will stop all incoming water from reaching your house, including the water supply to your water heater.

It"s now time to turn off the power to your water heater once you"ve switched off the water. There are different steps to do this depending if your home has a gas water heater or electric water heater.

Locate the gas supply valve. The line is generally within a few feet of your water heater. It"s near the bottom and connects to the gas control valve, which is located at the bottom.

To fix water heater leaks, you"ll need to find the source of the water leak to determine whether it requires a simple plumbing repair or something more complex like water heater replacement or installation.

The cold water intake and hot water exhaust are the pipes connected to your tank top. Over time, these lines may become loose or disconnected as they are continually in and out of use. If your water heater is leaking here, all you have to do is tighten any loose connections. Make sure there are no leaks on both the intake and outlet sides.

The T&P Valve is a temperature and pressure relief valve (temperature protection valve) that comes standard on most water heaters. It"s a mechanism for allowing steam or water to flow out of the tank to prevent excessive temperature or pressure from building up. Because it"s a valve, it"s also vulnerable to leaks. This might occur if the knob gets stuck in a halfway open position. It may allow water to escape from the pipe it connects to if it becomes faulty.

The drain valve is located near the bottom of your water heater tank. This is the portion of the device that allows you to empty your water heater for maintenance. You should flush and clean your tank at least once a year to eliminate any debris build-up.

The drain valve, like all other connections, can wear down with time. If you"ve noticed a leaking drain valve, tighten it carefully using a pipe wrench. Avoid overtightening the valve to prevent the leak from getting worse, which might happen if you hurry.

Insulated water heaters are made of insulative materials and include an internal tank. An outer covering then wraps around this whole section. If the inner part begins to leak, one of the most common symptoms is a leak that emerges from the bottom of the tank. If your water heater is the source of your problems, you"ll need to replace it. Unfortunately, these leaks are usually irreversible because they indicate deterioration.

There are preventative measures you can take even if you cannot readily spot where the water heater is leaking water. Water heaters usually last 8-12 years, depending on factors like water quality and water usage, however there are some things you can do to make sure your water heater lasts as long as possible.

Chances are you won"t notice a leaky water heater unless you go down into your basement, walk into your garage or utility closet and actually inspect your water heater. A simple eye test at all of the connections and under the tank itself will give away any sign there is an issue worth addressing. You don"t know what you don"t see with your own eyes.

By scheduling regular maintenance, a plumber ensures that the water heater does not leak. Maintenance checks ensure that plumbers check all of the plumbing components, which means they include the water heater. They verify for any active leaks and carefully examine each component to see if they have the capacity to develop future leaks.

The water heater"s water supply and water drain lines should be insulated, such as with pipe insulation or electrical tape. You can simply buy these at your local home improvement store and follow the instructions on the box to install them. This will help insulate heat and save energy while also preventing water heater leaks in the future.

The build-up of debris inside a water heater tank makes it less prone to crack. Sediment accumulation is less likely to cause the reservoir to fracture. Cleaning the tank may be accomplished by homeowners themselves. After draining the water, use bleach and water solution to clean any mold and mildew growth from the tank. This not only increases the water quality, but it also prevents sediment from harming the tank.

An anode rod sacrifices itself to safeguard the tank of a water heater. It attracts particles in the water that might corrode and degrade the metal components of the tank. The sacrificial magnesium anode rod is difficult to install and does not survive long (typically 2 or 3 years). They are known as sacrificial because they give up their lives in order to safeguard the tank. An anode rod"s life expectancy is shorter than that of the entire tank since it has a particular goal.

If you see a leak from your hot water tank and fear you need water heater repair service, call the expert plumbers at ARS/Rescue Rooter. Our plumbing experts will examine your tank for leaks, perform preventative maintenance, and help you determine if a new water heater installation is required.

Turn the hot water heater control valve to the off position and the temperature dial to its lowest setting. Turn off the water supply to the heater at the valve located on the cold water line running to the tank. Alternatively, turn off the water at the house supply valve.

Open a hot water faucet to release pressure on the lines. Position a 5-gallon bucket under the tank drain valve. Drain enough water from the tank to bring the level below the relief valve. Generally, draining 5 to 10 gallons is sufficient if the relief valve is located toward the top of a 50-gallon tank. Exercise caution during the draining procedure; the water is still very hot.

Examine the relief valve discharge line, which should run in a downward direction from the valve toward the bottom of the tank. You can remove a straight line in one piece, but some discharge lines are plumbed so that they run to a location other than the base of the tank, such as a remote drain. Obtain the necessary clearance to remove this type of line by cutting it with a hack saw or close-quarters tubing cutter at a point at least 2 inches below the valve.

Grasp the nut-shaped connector threaded into the relief valve using a pipe wrench or a large pair of slip-joint pliers. Turn the connector and attached section of discharge line counterclockwise to remove it from the valve. Set the discharge line aside for reuse.

Remove the relief valve from the hot water tank by turning it counterclockwise with a large pipe wrench. Depending on the age of the valve, considerable force is often required. Clean the threads of the relief valve opening using a wire brush, then wipe away any debris with a rag. Discard the old valve or set it aside for recycling.

Apply sealant to the threads of the new relief valve. Insert the valve into the opening in the tank and thread it hand-tight. Tighten the valve three to four more full turns using a pipe wrench. Align the valve so that the opening points downward toward the bottom of the tank.

Clean the threads of the discharge line connector with a wire brush, then wipe away any debris with a rag. Apply sealant to the threads. Thread the connector into the relief valve discharge opening and tighten it with a wrench. The opening of a straight discharge line should terminate in a safe location within 6 inches of the floor, or as called for by your local plumbing code.

Turn on the water supply to the hot water heater. Allow air to bleed out of the hot water lines through the faucet you opened earlier, then close the faucet. Flip open the lever on the relief valve for several seconds to check it for proper operation. Close the valve and check for leaks.

When a home’s water heater leaks, the repercussions are often quite serious. If the leak lets out water for a long period of time, water damage ruins floors, walls, and precious possessions. Homeowners want to fix leaks fast, but don’t always know where they come from or why they happen. However, this knowledge saves homeowners money and time. Luckily, leaks are easy to identify when you know where to look.

In Cincinnati, Ohio, Thomas & Galbraith’s plumbers inform homeowners about this important issue. Water heaters are dangerous when they leak in certain areas, so it’s important to take all leaks seriously. We cover the reasons why leaks occur in the water heater. We also speak about why those causes happen in the first place. This information helps homeowners differentiate between minor leaks and replacement worthy ones.

The causes of water heater leaks depend on a few factors. Sometimes, problems are small, which makes them easy for homeowners to fix on their own. However, there are other problems large enough to warrant an entirely new water heater. In general, it’s good practice to call a plumber to help you diagnose issues so you know the correct course of action is pursued.

Here are the most common reasons why water heaters leak.Old tank.Tank style water heaters older than about 15 years leak more often than newer heaters. As the unit ages, the parts wear out, the water doesn’t keep its warmth as well, and leaks occur more frequently. Water heater leaks due to old age sometimes happen because rust forms in the tank. This leads to corrosion, which allows water to exit through cracks. When the water heater reaches the end of its life, the only thing to do is replace it.

Drain valve.For maintenance visits and replacements, plumbers and homeowners use the drain valve to empty the tank. Homeowners also use the drain valve when they need to clean the tank. This valve loosens over time, which allows water to leak through. However, leaks from the base of the valve indicate that the component isn’t watertight. In this case, a new drain valve is necessary. Luckily, homeowners are able to complete this replacement, but it does help to hear what a plumber has to say before you take action.

Too much pressure.Like any plumbing fixture, water heaters deal with naturally occurring water pressure. Pressure occurs in water heaters because the hot water creates steam and fills the empty space. When this steam has nowhere to go, the pressure becomes too much. Water leaks through any crack in the heater to relieve some of the pressure. When the water temperature is set too high, or if water enters the system at high pressures, the heater pressure increases.

Faulty temperature and pressure relief valve.Water heater leaks also occur because of the temperature and pressure relief valve, known as the T&P valve. This valve helps relieve pressure inside the tank. When this valve doesn’t work, the pressure in the tank increases. Sometimes, the valve is simply loose and requires tightening. However, if the part is faulty, the piece needs a replacement. Lower the pressure in the tank before you deal with T&P valve issues.

Inlet and outlet connections.Cold water enters through the inlet connection, and hot water leaves through the outlet connection in a water heater. These connections allow hot water to enter your water fixtures. Over time, these loosen and cause leaks. It’s rare for any other issue to occur with the inlet and outlet connection.

Internal tank.Tank water heaters use two shells to complete its processes. The external shell provides insulation for the internal shell which holds the water. A final layer of metal covers both shells. Water heater leaks in the internal shell are difficult to spot, but occur because of age and deterioration in most cases. You don’t see this type of leak from the outside of the tank.

Sediment collection.As water heaters age, they collect sediment at the bottom of the tank. Homeowners who regularly clean the water out of the tank rarely experience this issue. However, for those who forgo draining the tank to clean it, sediment builds until cracks form. These cracks allow water to leak through. Tank leaks require an entirely new water heater which are expensive, so make sure to clean the tank semi-regularly.

Cracked storage tank.Some water heaters have an additional tank to expand the amount of water they hold. These tanks sometimes use glass to line the tank. Over time, minerals collect and calcify on the glass. This causes the glass to crack and leak water. Additionally, when the water becomes hot it expands, which puts stress on the glass and causes small cracks. Replacements are necessary in both cases.

Anode rod.Ananode rodacts as a sacrificial component of the water heater. It attracts corrosive substances so the water heater itself stays safe. However, water heater leaks occur when the anode rod becomes nearly nonexistent because of all the corrosion. Water leaks through the space where the anode rod used to be. Quick replacement takes care of any potential leaks.

When the water heater leaks, the location of the leak tells the plumber a lot ab