hot water heater safety valve leaking factory

Temperature pressure relief valves play a vital role in protecting the safety of your water heater and your home. So when the relief valve starts leaking, Bay Area homeowners can be quite concerned. Today we’re going to answer the question, “Why is my water heater’s relief valve leaking?” and explain what you should do if it happens in your home!

When water is heated up inside of a water heater, thermal expansion causes the pressure inside of the tank to build up. If that pressure gets too high, your water heater runs the risk of exploding!

The temperature pressure relief valve is a safety mechanism that’s used to avoid this problem. If the temperature‘s  or pressure in your tank exceeds a certain level (often times 210 degrees and 150 psi), the relief valve opens up and allows some water to drain out of the tank. Cold water is then added to the tank in order to lower the temperature and pressure inside.

Your water heater’s relief valve can start leaking for one of two reasons: either the valve was triggered to open because of excessive temperature or pressure, or the valve itself is faulty. In the first case, the valve will drain water out of the discharge pipe as explained above. This may seem like a “leak,” but it’s really just the relief valve doing its job.

If the problem is a faulty valve, then you might have an actual leak. The valve might not seal properly, for instance, or the valve can get stuck and remain open (allowing water to continuously drain out).

No matter what caused your relief valve to start leaking, you should contact a professional plumber like Cabrillo as soon as possible. If the valve is frequently being triggered, we can determine why the temperature or pressure is getting too high in your water heater and fix the problem. If the valve has a leak, we can replace it with a new relief valve (a very common water heater repair).

If you have any questions about why your water heater’s relief valve is leaking, or if you’d like a plumbing system serviced or installed in your home, contact Cabrillo, your Bay Area plumbing, heating and air conditioning contractor.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

Your hot water heater pressure relief valve is an important component of both electric and gas hot water heaters. This valve is designed to allow water and steam to escape from the tank if the temperature gets too hot or if pressure gets too high, releasing some of the pressure before a dangerous explosion can occur.

While it is a critical safety feature, a leaking hot water heater pressure relief valve can be cause for concern. If you have noticed a leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve, you can troubleshoot the issue yourself in a few ways:

The temperature of your hot water heater could be causing the temperature and pressure relief valve to do its job, resulting in a small discharge of steam or water. Check the thermostat to determine the temperature setting of your water heater and verify this temperature by running hot water at a fixture until it gets hot. Use a meat thermometer to read the actual temperature of this water, ensuring that it is set at a safe 120 degrees Fahrenheit or lower.

Ensure that the valve is functioning properly by lifting the arm on the top of the valve and seeing if water comes out. When you release the valve, it should shut immediately and stop the flow of water. If the arm does not lift and does not snap back down immediately, it should be replaced. There may be debris or rust preventing the pressure relief valve from functioning correctly.

Sometimes your leaking hot water pressure relief valve can be fixed simply by replacing the valve. This easy task requires you to drain the tank to a level below the valve, then opening it to release any residual pressure. The valve can then be removed slowly using a wrench to turn it counter-clockwise. Replace the valve with one of the same pressure rating by screwing it in clockwise and tightening it with a wrench.

If you replace the valve and it still continues to leak, this signals a greater problem. A frequently triggered valve means that your hot water heater is consistently overheating your water or building up too much pressure within the tank. It’s best to call in a professional to determine why your water heater is getting too hot or pressure is getting too high so it can be repaired or replaced if necessary.

Not sure how to fix your hot water heater pressure relief valve on your own? We’re here to help! The experienced water heater specialists at Evam Canada are on-call to repair any leaks 24/7. Don’t hesitate to call us for your emergency water heater repairs at 1-905-624-5544.

A common sight in a hydronic boiler room is water dripping from the discharge pipe of the boiler relief valve. While it may appear to be inconsequential, it could cause extensive damage to the heating system.

Some boiler rooms have a bucket under the relief valve discharge pipe to mask the problem. The following are some suggestions if you would like to resolve the problem.

Leaking water from a sealed hydronic system can reduce the life of the system by introducing untreated makeup water containing oxygen and solids to the system. The oxygen can attack and pit the boiler and piping, causing corrosion and leaks.

The solids can affect the efficiency and safety of the system. Solids form scale on the hottest surfaces in the boiler lowering the heat transfer ability and efficiency of the system. A leaking relief valve can allow solids to form on the seat of the relief valve increasing the rate of the leak.

A worse situation occurs when the solids form on the spring side of the relief valve as it could alter the opening pressure. A relief valve was a contributing factor in a fatal boiler accident as scale formed on the relief valve, prohibiting it from opening properly.

The relief valve, rated for 30 psig, was tested after the accident and did not open until the pressure reached 1,500 psig. Diagnosing the cause of the leaking relief valve is time-consuming and sometimes frustrating. I like to explain this to the customer to prepare them when the diagnosis and repair may take more than one visit.

The first thing I check is the system pressure. Most hydronic boilers have a gauge called a tridicator, or PTA (pressure, temperature, altitude) gauge. How much pressure do we need for the system? Each pound of system pressure will raise water 2.3 feet. The way to calculate how much pressure you need is to determine the height of the tallest radiator and divide the height by 2.3.

For example, we have a radiator on the sixth floor, and the elevation is 60 feet high. When you divide the height (60 feet) by 2.3, we get 26.09 pounds. We should add 3 to 4 pounds to that number to allow for better air removal and to limit the chance of the hot water flashing to steam. This takes our normal system pressure to 29-30 psig.

The next step is to verify the pressure rating of the relief valve. The pressure rating of the relief valve should be at least 10 psig higher than the operating pressure of the system but less than the maximum allowable working pressure (MAWP) of the boiler. Many hydronic boilers are shipped with a 30 psig relief valve from the factory. In this example, the relief valve should be at 40 psig or higher. If the system pressure is 30 psig and the relief valve, rated for 40 psig, is leaking, the relief valve is most likely defective.

Another troubleshooting task I perform is watching the tridicator (or PTA gauge) while the boiler is firing and heating the water. When water is heated from 65° F to 180°, the water volume expands by 3%. If the pressure gauge starts creeping up as the water heats, I would suspect a flooded compression tank or plugged piping to the compression tank.

In some instances, it may take several days for the pressure to build and open the relief valve and these are the most difficult to troubleshoot. The first place I would look is the compression tank. If the tank is flooded, there are a couple of reasons.

The most common causes are leaking gauge glass fittings above the water line of the tank, excessive system pressure, undersized tank, or the tank has a leak above the water line. If the system has been operating correctly for years, I would be hesitant to believe the tank is undersized.

A pinhole leak on top of the tank may be impossible to find and one of the ways to test the integrity of the tank is to valve off the water feeder to the system and check the tank in a few days to see if it flooded. If the tank is flooded, you might have to replace the tank.

Another culprit that can cause the pressure to rise and open the relief valve is if the boiler has an indirect water which uses the boiler water to heat the domestic water using a water to water heat exchanger. A leaking heat exchanger could allow the higher city water pressure to enter the space heating side and increase the system pressure. To test this idea, shut the valves from the domestic water side and see if the pressure still rises.

The last item to check is the pressure-reducing valve (PRV). This is a brass valve with an adjustment screw. Some models have a quick-fill feature, which allows you to pull a lever and quickly fill the system. A stethoscope is sometimes used to trouble shoot the PRV to detect if water is leaking through the valve.

Another way to test for leaking is to feel the downstream pipe and see if it is cold. In many instances, the water is fed slowly and difficult to detect. Another way to test to see if the PRV is leaking through is to shut off the valves on the feed water pipe and see if the pressure still rises. If it does, I will suspect the piping to the compression tank is restricted or the tank is flooded. If the pressure does not rise, it could be the pressure reducing valve.

On the side or top of your water heater tank is a valve connected to a metal or plastic discharge tube pointing downward. The valve is called a T&P valve, or TPR valve, for "temperature and pressure relief."

If all goes well, a TPR valve never gets used intentionally except during testing. But in the event of an emergency or malfunction, this valve is of critical importance. It can potentially prevent your water heater from exploding. Understanding how a T&P valve works will help you keep your water heater in tip-top shape and prevent possible damage to your home.

A T&P valve is a valve with an attached tube located on the outside of a water heater. The valve provides relief to the water heater if the pressure exceeds normal operating limits, usually 150 psi.

Mandated by all plumbing codes, the T&P valve relieves excess temperature and pressure in a water heater if either reaches a critical point. A water heater is a closed system, and thermal expansion is an inescapable fact of both normal and abnormal water heater functioning.

In a standard water heater, the water is heated by a gas burner or electric elements. As the water reaches temperatures between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, both the water and the water heater"s metal tank expand.

Some expansion is normal, but too much expansion is unsafe. When the temperature reaches 210 degrees or the pressure reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch), a properly functioning T&P valve opens and expels hot water and steam through the discharge tube.

When you purchase a water heater, the T&P valve generally comes pre-installed. A threaded inlet is welded onto the side of the tank. This inlet cannot be removed or replaced. The T&P valve is screwed clockwise onto that inlet.

Because the T&P valve is rarely used, mineral build-up can cause it to stiffen over time. This is a significant safety hazard because, in the event of a temperature or pressure spike, the T&P valve may not open as it should and the water heater might explode.

Water heater manufacturers recommend regular checking of the T&P valve. Wear closed-toe shoes to avoid scalding. Except for a bucket, no tools are required.

Before you begin, make sure you know where the shut-off valve of your tank is. It"s usually located on the cold water feed, on the right side inlet on top of the tank.

Release the lever and let it snap back to its original position. If the lever does not snap back into place, the valve is faulty and must be replaced.

In most cases, there are two problems you might have to address with the T&P valve: a valve that leaks by constantly dripping or a valve that sticks and doesn"t open and close properly.

When a T&P valve is leaking, it may be due to the valve not being properly seated in the threaded opening of the tank. This is especially likely if the leaking occurs immediately after an old valve is replaced. This can be remedied by shutting off the water heater and letting it cool down completely, then removing and rethreading the valve into the tank"s opening.

If the valve is leaking due to dirt or sediment trapped in the relief port, pull the metal spring lever back again and discharge water into the bucket. Once the lever snaps back again, if the water fails to stop completely, shut turn the gas valve to the off position and shut the water off to replace the valve.

A water heater that periodically discharges hot water and steam from the T&P valve may be set to a water temperature that is too high. Make sure that the water temperature setting is in the normal recommended range—about 120 degrees Fahrenheit—or no more than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

When stuck downward, the valve cannot provide relief if the system reaches maximum pressure. As a result, the water heater tank might rupture. When stuck in a fully extended position, the T&P valve will continually leak water down through the discharge tube, potentially flooding the home.

The stickiness of the valve can sometimes be remedied by simply opening and closing the lever several times. Jiggle the T&P valve by gently pulling the lever towards you. Much like jiggling a toilet handle, this action may be enough to unstick the valve. If this does not fix the problem, replace the valve.

However, some caution is necessary whenever working with a water heater, because the T&P valve can become damaged if the water heater has exceeded maximum pressure or temperature levels. If you suspect a pressure-related problem with your water heater tank, hire a licensed plumber to have the water heater inspected.

If a recently replaced T&P relief valve starts leaking again, it probably means that the relief valve is only doing it’s job; it relieving excess pressure in the water heater. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved. I’ll explain.

When a water heater heats up the water in the tank, the water expands. When this happens, the water typically ends up expanding back out the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming in to the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices.

What would happen if a one-way valve, or check valve, was installed on the water supply piping for the house? The water wouldn’t have anywhere to go. As the water heater heats the water, it expands, which builds up pressure in what is now essentially a closed system. When the pressure builds up enough, the T&P relief valve on the water heater just does it’s job and relieves the excess pressure by leaking a little water.

The Fix When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a fairly simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the T&P relief valve on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Is your water heater pressure relief valve leaking? What is the cause, and what can you do to fix it? If you’re asking any of these questions, you’re in the right place. Read on to learn all you need to know to fix the problem.

There are some common reasons why your water heater pressure relief valve might leak. One is excessively high temperatures in the water tank. Either a gas burner or electricity heats the water inside the tank, and the pressure relief valve is a safety mechanism to make sure the tank doesn’t overheat.

When water is heated, thermal expansion causes pressure to build up inside of the water tank. If the temperature gets too high, the valve will open up and drain out some of the hot water, replacing it with cooler water to lower the temperature.

This is a sign that the valve is working correctly and occasional leaking is normal.Temperatures inside the water tank rangefrom 120 to 140 degrees.The pressure will be released if the temperature inside the tank gets to about 210 degrees and 150 psi (pounds per square inch).

Another possible cause of leaks is the valve not being appropriately sealed at the point where it connects to the water heater. Another potential issue is that the valve itself is faulty. For example, if the seal is damaged or the valve sticks to the open position.

If the water heater pressure relief valve is truly damaged and is causing the leakage, why is it a good idea to fix it right away?The high-pressure buildup could cause the tank to rupture or explode.

What are some of the signs that your water heater pressure relief valve is leaking?No water pressure. Just as with low or fluctuating water pressure, no pressure is a sign that something may be wrong with your pressure relief valve.

Loud noises coming from inside the walls.If you hear loud banging or humming noises inside your walls, this may be a sign that your pressure relief valve is leaking. To make sure the sound is coming from the valve, go close to it and see if the sounds become louder.

What to Do When You Find a LeakAssess the leak. Find out whether or not the leak is from normal pressure release or a bad valve. Replace the valve if needed.

Do a valve test to see if the pressure relief valve is functioning properly. If a lousy valve causes the leak, contact a licensed plumber to replace the valve if you don’t have the skills to do it yourself.

Check the frequency of the leaks. If you often have leaks due to the valve opening. You may have unsafe pressure levels, and your water tank is at risk of rupturing or exploding.

Check the valve opening to make sure it can close properly. Minerals in the water may become encrusted on the valve opening over time. If the valve is leaking because it is stuck in the open position, open and close the valve a few times quickly to get it unstuck. If the valve still sticks, you know that you need to replace it.

Check the pressure gauge. If the valve has no pressure, it could be due to a broken spring or the valve not fitting correctly. Controlling the pressure is a vital function of the valve, and replacement is a must.

If the leakage is severe, immediately turn off the water heater. If your water heater uses gas, locate the gas line, which is usually near the water heater. Turn the gas valve clockwise until the gas is entirely off.

If your water heater is powered by electricity, locate the appropriate switch in your breaker box and set it to “off.”Next, turn off the water supply to stop more water from building up in the tank.

Use caution with a leaky tank, as the water is hot and could cause burns and serious injury.Replacing a leaking water heater pressure relief valve can be a DIY project, depending on the cause of the leak.

The valves are inexpensive, and you can do a quick fixin a few simple steps:Turn off the water heater breaker (allow 24-48 hours for the water to cool).

If the water heater pressure relief valve is often open and leaking, there could be an issue with your water heater. If your water heater is constantly at a high temperature, there is a high-pressure buildup.

If your water heater pressure relief valve is leaking, there’s no need to panic. A simple replacement of the valve can easily fix the issue. Testing your valve regularly can prevent costly repairs in the future.

Pay close attention to the frequency and the level of the leaks so that you know when it’s time to call a professional. Test valves regularly and replace them when necessary to avoid costly repairs in the future.

Replacing a pressure relief valve is far cheaper than repairing one after something has gone wrong. CPV Manufacturing recommends replacing your pressure relief valve every 4-5 years, but you also need to factor in some other things.Location – Certain climates, particularly desert climates, can be hard on pressure relief valve seals. Heat and dryness can cause the seals to crack, so users need to replace them more frequently.

Debris in your water – Debris in your water may be a sign of blockage or corrosion in the valve. If the pipes undergo a thorough cleaning process and the debris remains, it’s time to replace the valve.

Age of the valve – The spring mechanism in the valve loses tension as the valve ages. This is why it’s essential to test your valve about every six months and replace the valve every 4-5 years.

Frequency of use – If your water heater pressure release valve is in high use, it may need to be replaced more frequently due to the wear and tear caused by this usage.

Water quality – Minerals build up on the water heater pressure relief valve over time. If you live in an area with hard water, mineral deposits may build up quicker. Mineral buildup on the valve can cause the valve to stick. If it is stuck in the open position, it will leak. If it is stuck in the closed position, it will not open when pressure release is needed, risking pressure buildup in the water tank.

Water relief pressure valves are usually located on the side or top of your water heater. The valve connects to a discharge tube that is made from either plastic or metal.

Fluctuating, low, or no water pressure are signs that the valve is leaking. Check your valve if you notice any unusual changes in your water pressure.

Lift the lever on the top of the valve to verify that the hot water is being expelled from the overflow tube. Quickly release the lever, and if it doesn’t spring back into place quickly, it means that you will need to replace the valve.

Use caution when testing your valve to prevent hot water from being slashed on you. Some plumbers recommend testing the valve every six months, while others recommend testing it every two years.

The temperature and pressure relief valve is a safety device that is installed at the factory.  It is designed to open on a residential water heater, for your protection, when there is excessive water temperature or excessive water pressure. There are many things that result in conditions causing a T&P to release water. Thermal Expansion in a closed system is a common cause that is often the last to be considered.

When water heats it expands, just as mercury in a thermometer expands rising up the scale to show you a person’s body temperature. If the expansion of the mercury were to exceed the capacity of the thermometer the thermometer would explode. When water heats in a water heater it also expands. The expanding water will typically push back into the supply line preventing excessive pressure from building inside the water heater.

When a check valve (backflow preventer) or pressure reducing valve is installed without a built-in bypass water is not allowed to push back into the supply line. Pressure instead builds within the water heater. At 150 psi the T&P will begin releasing water to reduce the pressure within the water heater for your protection.  Should this occur we recommend that you install a properly sized expansion tank. An expansion tank helps by absorbing the excess water pressure in a diaphragm tank. The diaphragm allows for water to flow into the expansion tank as it is being heated and expanding and flow back into the water heater at other times. An expansion tank will prevent wasting water released from the T and P during expansion, as well.

Why would a backflow preventer/check valve be installed in the first place? To prevent your home’s water from backing up into the main supply. Removal of the backflow preventer/check valve may not be an option, as it is likely required by codes in your area. Removal of a pressure reducing valve is also not a likely option, as controlling the water pressure into the home may be necessary.

Excessive operation of a thermostat (typically due to points being fused together in a power surge or electrical storm). If the water is overheating in your water heater a thermostat may need to be replaced.

A ground element. If the water is overheating in your water heater an element may be ground within its sheathing, typically due to a power surge of some type, and require replacing.

Pressure surge from the operation of a solenoid valve. If the T&PP only opens when operating the washing machine you may need to install a water hammer arrestor, shock absorber or blind cushion air pipe. An expansion tank may be the answer.

The following are some of the main causes of RV water heater leaks. We’ll list them, and then we’ll take each potential issue one by one, and describe the most likely way to resolve or repair the issue.

It’s possible that your drain valve/plug is leaking. This is more likely to be the case if you have a plastic drain plug such as those usually found on an Atwood water heater (rather than an anode rod, like Suburban water heaters have).

This is the exact same process as for the drain valve noted above, but Suburban water heaters have anode rods. They sacrifice themselves to protect the tank itself from corroding and also serve as the drain valve.

There needs to be an air pocket at the top of a hot water tank. Otherwise, excessive pressure can build up inside the tank. If you lose that air pocket, (which can happen), you may find yourself with water leaking from the water pressure relief valve.

In this photo, you can see the pressure relief valve noted at the top and the anode rod location at the bottom. Note that this is a Suburban water heater. An Atwood RV water heater has a pressure relief valve like this one but has a drain valve/drain plug instead of an anode rod. From the outside of the hot water tank, these two items look very similar.

If you have a leak from your water heater’s heating element, one of two things is likely going on. Either you simply need to replace the heating element, or the problem is the threads into which the heating element is seated.

This is more likely on an Atwood hot water tank than it is on a Suburban. This is because the Atwood tanks don’t have an anode rod to absorb the corrosive action caused by hot water. So, in some cases, parts of the Atwood tanks can get eaten away because they take the brunt of the corrosive action.

Atwood doesn’t use anode rods because their tanks are made of aluminum, and not prone to the same corrosive action that affects Suburban tanks. But not all of the Atwood water heater’s components are aluminum.

If there is any damage to the socket into which the element screws, you’ll want to either have the tank repaired or replace the entire tank. (The latter may be most cost-effective in the end since the water tank is probably several years old if this type of damage has occurred.)

If you’re a confident DIY RVer, you may be comfortable just turning off the power to the electric water heater, disconnecting the propane line, draining the tank, removing the water heater tank, and re-installing a new one yourself. If not, you may need to call a plumber or at least an RV repair technician.

This could be a relatively easy fix or it could be made more difficult by the fact that the inlet/outlet connections of your water lines could be buried/hard to get to in your RV depending on its installation location.

In either case, leaks at the hot or cold water inlet or outlet can be repaired. Sometimes it’s simply a matter of tightening a connection that has loosened.

If the leak is coming from a piece that looks like a nut, this is most likely a check valve. These are also standard items carried by plumbing, hardware, and big box stores.

You may well be able to do all of this from inside the RV (again depending on location and installation) or you may need to pull the water heater out to gain proper access.

Unfortunately, if you’re experiencing internal tank leaks, or a leak from the bottom of the tank, it’s probably not salvageable. You’ll want to do this ASAP before you experience water damage in your RV’s basement.

Remember that hot water tanks can be damaged by improper winterization. Always take steps to properly winterize your RV especially if you travel to or store the RV in colder locations.

The information on this web site is supplemental to the printed instructions that came with your water heater. To reduce the risk of property damage, serious injury or death, read and follow all labels on the water heater and the safety instructions in the printed owner"s manual.

If your old water heater leaked prematurely, check your home"s water pressure with a pressure gauge (available at hardware stores and home centers for a few dollars). Measure the water pressure over a 24-hour period. (Water pressures are highest at night.)

Pressure Reducing Valves are usually set at 50 psi at the factory. However, they are adjustable. Adjust the valve so that your home"s water pressure is 50 psi.

Replacing the T&P valve almost never stops the drips because T&P valves rarely fail and almost all drips from the T&P valve are due to high water pressure and thermal expansion.

From your description . . . the water is leaking through the valve, not around the valve past the threads . . . correct? Your description sounds like a faulty valve, but having this happen to the original and now the replacement valve seems to point to some other cause.

The first thing that I would do is open and "snap" closed the pressure relief valve (with water pressure in the system). Do this a couple of times. This will be a little messy (water spray) but is intended too flush any possible contamination from the valve seat that might be holding the valve slightly open. Then, relieve the pressure and re-establish the air cushion as discussed earlier. If the valve is leaking, the air cushion will go away very quickly and the valve will begin to drip water in a few hours.

Back to the other possible causes . . . this is a "pressure relief" valve . . . is it possible that your water system is building sufficient pressure to trigger the valve to do what it is designed to do? You have probably read my many posts on the value of a system water pressure gauge. This would be an ideal thing to have in sorting this out. If pressure spikes from the campground water system are getting past your (presumed) inline pressure regulator, this pressure spike would be held in the RV water system by the inlet check valve. Do you sometimes get a "burst" of pressure when you open a faucet?

I did install an "accumulator" tank (sometimes called an expansion tank). The primary purpose of this is to hold water at pressure so that the onboard pump runs for longer when it comes on (filling the tank) and cycles less frequently (while the tank supplies water). Both of these things are good for the longevity of the pump. As you may recall, I have made mention of the observation that filling and pressurizing the water system and then turning on the water heater will cause the system pressure to climb past 70 psi (without an accumulator tank). With the volume of the accumulator tank available to absorb the volume increase from water heating, the pressure rise is barely noticeable on the pressure gauge. All this to say that if the "leaking" pressure relief valve is actually opening because of an over-pressure situation (which it is supposed to do) an accumulator tank would help. If it is a faulty valve, this tank will not solve the problem.

Valve leakage is a common but troublesome occurrence in industrial facilities. While some valves are expected to have a certain level of leakage, especially as they begin to reach nameplate set pressure, other valve leakage is problematic and can even be dangerous for your facility. If you suspect valve leakage, here are a few reasons why your safety or pressure relief valve may be leaking, how to test the valve, and how to troubleshoot a valve you’ve confirmed is leaking. Four common reasons a pressure relief valve might be leaking include:

Pressure relief and safety relief valves will leak if the valve isn’t fully closed. This is a common problem in industrial settings where environments are often dusty or dirty. If there is any debris in the valve, it can obstruct the valve from fully closing, causing it to leak.

Pressure relief valves age and can begin to deteriorate, especially in factories and facilities where they encounter extreme temperatures and a great deal of wear. Over time, valves can become damaged, which affects their ability to close properly. If there is any damage or excessive wear to the valve seat or seal, leakage is likely.

Another common cause of safety relief valve leakage is when the valve is the wrong size for the project. Whether it’s a loose fit or the wrong fit entirely, a poorly fitting valve won’t be able to function properly, and will often leak.

If you suspect a leaking safety relief valve, or if you would like to complete regular maintenance to prevent valve leakage in the first place, it’s good to know that it is possible to test for a leaking valve. Known as a seat tightness or leakage test, these tests maintain the pressure relief valve’s inlet pressure at a certain percentage of the valve’s set pressure, so the valve technician can assess the valve’s condition.

The AccuTEST inline valve testing system offers a unique feature —  the Lift and Hold test — specifically designed to test for leakage. The system performs an automated leakage test according to the operator’s requirements. The operator sets the percent of set pressure and the duration of the test. When the operator starts the test, the AccuTEST system takes over, holding the valve at the appointed percentage of set pressure for the specified duration. While the system holds the valve at pressure, the operator is able to count any bubbles in the valve to assess its condition and determine whether the valve is leaking or not.

When you have confirmed the source of the leak, you can assess whether the valve could be repaired, or if it should be completely replaced. For example, if the valve is the wrong size or if the valve is damaged, it’s best to replace it. If the valve can be cleaned and adjusted to function properly, then repair may be an option.

Once your leaking safety relief valve has been repaired or replaced and is functioning as it should, it’s important to consider implementing regular maintenance and testing. Leaking pressure relief valves can present serious complications for the functionality of your facility. Implementing a regular maintenance and pressure relief valve testing schedule can help you stay in front of concerns like this, ensuring your facility is running efficiently, and at pressure, at all times.

If you are concerned about a leaking safety or pressure relief valve, or are seeking inline valve testing equipment that is capable of performing seat tightness or leakage tests, you might be interested in AccuTEST’s equipment. With exclusive Lift and Hold testing capabilities, AccuTEST inline pressure relief valve testing equipment offers the functionality you need. See how our equipment works in real-time — schedule a live webinar demo today.

If you come home to a puddle of water under your water heater it’s time to take a closer look. Water leakage can be a sign that there is something wrong with your water heater and it needs attention. We will discuss some of the most common reasons why hot water heaters leak and what you can do about it. We also have some helpful tips and insights on how to maintain your water heater so that you can avoid any costly repairs in the future.

You see water on the floor around your water heater and know you might have a problem. First, you need to rule out other causes of water. Condensation can be a potential cause of water around your water heater.

High-efficiency gas water heaters can produce condensate that is harmless but can look like a leak. Here is how to identify condensation:Wipe up water under the heater

With an electric hot water heater one cause of condensation is the hot cylinder tank being located in a cold room. You can test for condensation by wiping down the outside of your hot water heater and then watching to see if the moisture comes back in an even pattern across the water heater surface. If it does then it is most like condensation.

If your HVAC system is in the same room as your hot water heater make sure that the source of the water leakage isn’t coming from your AC or furnace or any other connected systems like water softener lines. Also check the water supply lines that bring water to your water heater. Leaky lines or pipes located above or below the water heater might be the problem (keep reading to learn about fixes).

Once you have determined that the water heater is leaking, turn off the gas (for gas heaters) or the electricity (for electric heaters). Water and electricity don’t mix so this is a crucial step you don’t want to skip, ever! If you aren’t comfortable working with gas or electric water heaters then now is a good time to call in a professional. And don’t mess with any gas piping – leave that to the experts.

There are typically instructions on the front of your water heater explaining how to turn off the gas valve. If you can’t find it there, then look for the shut-off valve near your water heater. It is usually located at the top of the heater and will have a knob or lever that you can turn to completely turn off the gas supply.

If you have an electric water heater make sure the circuit breakers are off in your electrical panel. If you can’t find which breaker controls the water heater, look for a label on your electric panel or use a diagram on the door of your panel to help identify the correct breaker. Once you have found it, switch the position to OFF.

Another safety step is turning off your water supply entirely. To do this, locate your main shutoff valve and turn it off. This is usually found either in the basement or outside near the curb.

In addition to shutting off your water supply at the main line, you should also turn off the cold water supply for your hot water heater. To do this, look for two valves on your hot water heater, one for hot water and one for cold. Your hot water supply is typically marked in red and your cold water supply is usually marked in blue. Shutting off the cold water will help to prevent any further water damage from leaking water.

Now that you’ve shut off gas/electricity, your main line, as well as the cold line supply it’s time to figure out the source of your water heater leak.

The most common cause of water heater leaking is a damaged or failing pressure relief valve. This valve prevents pressure from building up in the water tank, and when it fails, hot water can start to leak out. Other potential causes could include:A cracked or corroded water heater tank

Pooling water from the top of your water heater could be your cold or hot water inlets that bring water into the tank to be heated and then out into your pipes when you need it. Loose pipe connections can cause leaking from the top of your water heater.

Water leaking from the side of your heater is likely your temperature pressure relief valve. The temperature pressure relief valve is a safety mechanism that allows for hot water and steam to discharge from the tank when there is too much pressure built up inside it.

Solution: Check the temperature to make sure it isn’t set above the recommended 120 degrees. If the temperature is set correctly and continues to leak, the valve is defective and needs to be replaced.

If you notice water leaking from near the base of your water heater, it could be an issue with the drain valve. The drain valve is designed to empty the water tank when needed, such as during maintenance.

Solution: Inspect the drain valve for corrosion and replace. If there is no corrosion, tighten the valve slightly but don’t over do it because it can cause damage. If tightening does not fix it, replacement may be necessary.

If you still have unexplained water pooling underneath your hot water heater it could be due to a bad anode rod or a crack. To find out if an anode rod is your issue requires some work that often means calling a professional. Sadly, if your leak is due to a crack in your hot water heater it isn’t a quick repair. You are going to need a new water heater. In both these situations the best thing to do is call a professional and get an assessment of what is going on and determine next steps.

If your hot water heater is leaking but not showing any of the issues listed above, it may be due to a build up of sediment or mineral deposits. It’s important to flush your water heater annually as part of regular maintenance and preventative care. This can help avoid the need for costly repairs due to build up and reduce the risk of a leak.

To keep your hot water heater running efficiently, you should also check it regularly for any signs of leakage or damage. If you do notice a problem, contact a professional immediately to assess the issue and make sure your hot water is safe to use.

By taking the time to maintain your water heater and check for any signs of damage, you can avoid costly repairs due to a leaking system and keep your hot water running smoothly.

Water heaters are an essential part of keeping our homes comfortable but they need regular maintenance. If you start to notice water leaking from your water heater, it’s important to take action quickly. Inspect the system for visible signs of damage and if your water heater is over 10 years old or you find yourself repairing often it might be time to contact a professional for a water heater replacement.

The cost of a new water heater, whether it’s a tank or tankless heater, may seem intimidating but the long-term savings on monthly energy bills and peace of mind will pay off in the end.

Determining next steps when your hot water heater isn’t working right can be daunting. Jacobs Heating & Air Conditioning experts are here to guide you through the process whether it is a water heater repair or a replacement.

Extend the life of your water heater, avoid extra costs and fewer repairs by scheduling a tune-up for your existing system before issues arise. Our maintenance plans keep your water heater running like clockwork without any stress or hassle. No matter what you need we’re always just a phone call away.

You may find a check valve (one-way valve) somewhere upstream of your water heater. Check valves are incorporated into many types of water meter “sets” out in the meter pit. Check valves are also integral to all backflow prevention devices. The check valve prevents cool water from expanding back up the main supply line when the water expands while being heated in the water heater. That is what causes the pressure to exceed the relief valve setting and start leaking off the excess pressure.

A leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve is a major concern, especially if it’s the first time dealing with this problem. While some people tend to panic and get help immediately, others may just shrug their shoulders and assume that the leak is a common occurrence. However, there are many causes of leaks in water pressure relief valves. And all these must be addressed immediately given the high risks of property damage and hazards that can occur if the issue is ignored.

The pressure relief valve gives steam and water a chance to escape when either the pressure or temperature in the water tank gets too high. A malfunctioning valve can cause the water heater to explode and is the major cause of water heater explosions. In water heater pressure relief valves, the valve is set to open when the pressure exceeds 150 psi.

A leaking valve is not always a broken valve. In some cases, a water heater’s pressure relief valve may leak because it is functioning as intended. As excess pressure is relieved out of your water heater system, some water may leak. This necessitates the need to test the pressure in your water heater.

The process is not complicated. However, if you are not comfortable checking the water pressure, you can always contact your technician. To test the pressure, use a pressure gauge and attach it to either the cold-water pipe or the hot water pipe. However, one of the easiest places to connect the pressure gauge is the outdoor hose faucets. For this, ensure you purchase a pressure gauge that is designed for garden hoses.

Turn off all water outlets and faucets. The pressure reading should be between 40 psi- 80 psi. If the gauge shows a psi reading of 150 and above, then the cause of the leak could be high pressure. If the water pressure is normal and the leak is persistent, then high water pressure is not the cause of the leak.

If you get a high-pressure reading, then you could be dealing with a closed plumbing system issue. This means that when the water is heated, the pressure increases as it should. But with nowhere to go, the valves open to relieve the pressure. Luckily, this can be solved by installing an expansion tank that gives the pressure an outlet other than a pressure relief valve.

Although rare, your water heater’s pressure relief valve could be leaking as a result of excessively high temperatures. However, the water has to be near the boiling point. To check the water temperature, ensure you turn on the hot water faucet. Run the water for one minute and use a meat thermometer to take the temperature reading. The temperature should be around 120 degrees. If more than this, then you need to have the water heater checked. The water temperature would need to be close to 212 degrees to set off the relief valve.

While this is an uncommon occurrence, it is not far-fetched. Your technician could have used a pressure valve for another appliance since they have the same function. However, these other pressure relief valves are set to go off at a lower psi. For instance, boiler pressure valves go off at 30 psi. If installed in a water heater, you are likely to get leaks immediately after installation. As such, if you have had your water heater for years and only experienced the leaks after a long period, then this is an unlikely cause of the leak.

A slight leak may occur if your water heater’s pressure relief valve has not been opened for a while, say a few years. While this leak is normal and may not be an indicator of a problem with the water heater system, you may need to replace the valve if the leak becomes more serious. It is cheaper to replace the entire valve than to repair it and have to deal with the same problem later on.

A leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve could also be caused by a faulty pressure relief valve. While pressure relief valves barely break down, excessive wear and improper installation can cause extensive damage. Unfortunately, a faulty pressure valve can not be repaired and must be replaced. However, the cost of pressure valves is affordable and ranges around $30.

Know your water heater and how it functions– Water heaters can be intimidating, especially for people with less technical know-how.  Understand what every part of the system plays in heating water such as the water shutoff valve, drain valve, thermostat, and pressure relief valve. This eases the maintenance routine and ensures you have a fair understanding of any malfunctions.

Insulate the pipes and the water heater– By insulating both the cold water and hot water pipes, you get to prevent condensation while also reducing heat loss. Also, insulating the water heater helps to keep water hot when surrounded by cold air.

Carry out regular maintenance– Inspect your water heater monthly, ensuring that all valves and pipes are in good shape. This also helps you catch corrosion and leaks early enough before they turn out to be bigger problems. And every year, carry out a water heater flush. Given that you cannot pinpoint all problems, have a qualified technician inspect the system annually.

Regardless of the possible cause of a leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve, please contact a qualified plumber as soon as possible. And if you think it’s a problem that you can solve without getting help, ensure you have a qualified plumber confirm that the system is performing optimally after. Water heater issues should not be taken lightly as they can cause more issues, even explosions.