hot water heater safety valve leaking price

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

[2023 Update]: 95% of the time, the main reason people call about a water heater problem is leakage, which is not repairable and we must replace it. The typical range for water heater replacement is between $1300 to $5500, averaging around $1700. For the rest of the cases, the price tag on your electric water heater repair project, one of the most critical aspects, will be the specific part that requires work. The average cost of repairing a water heater is $506. *Prices vary based on the complexity of the circumstances.

Most of the time, homeowners put little thought into their water heater. As long as the unit works, it’s out of sight and out of mind. When the water heater is on the fritz, however, it becomes hard to ignore. A faulty water heater can adversely impact quality of life in a number of ways.

For example, hot showers will be out of the question. Some family members may forgo bathing altogether! Unwashed dishes may start to pile up. Laundry equipment won’t be as powerful in removing stains. It may feel like your home life has come to a complete stop.

The good news is that water heater issues can usually be fixed promptly. Is your water heater leaking? Is it simply not working as intended? Contact an experienced plumber who can diagnose the problem. From there, you can get your water heater repaired or replaced.

As you consider this possibility, it’s natural to wonder about price. How much will the water heater repair cost? We’ll answer that question in this comprehensive guide.

There are a number of factors that can determine the cost. One of the most important issues is whether you get your hot water heater repaired or replaced.

A good rule of thumb is that water heater’s life expectancy is 9 years. Without draining, water heaters that receive heavy use may not last quite as long. But 9 years is a good number to keep in mind.

If your water heater is more than 9 years old, and it starts giving you trouble, it will almost certainly be more cost-effective to replace it. Repairing it may be possible, but it could turn out to be just a short-term fix.

Another way of looking at it: If your unit is under seven years old, you will almost always want to repair it. Replacement probably won’t be necessary. But if your water heater is over seven years old, that’s where things get tricky. While it may be possible to repair it, it may or may not make financial sense to do so.

A skilled plumber will be able to advise you on the best way to get your hot water working again, without breaking the bank. That will be one of the determining factors in the cost of addressing your water heater problem.

There are several common problems that can cause a water heater to function suboptimally. Sometimes, it’s possible to assess for yourself what the issue is. Your plumber will be able to confirm your suspicions. Once an accurate diagnosis is made, you’ll have a better sense of the cost you’re looking at.

One of the most obvious problems is that you’re just not getting enough hot water. One possible reason is that the unit is undersized. Hot water heaters come with different tank sizes to accommodate different sizes of house/family. If you consistently have too little hot water, it may be because your heater is just too small. Replacing it with a larger unit may be the best way forward.

Another possibility is that you need to adjust the thermostat. If you’re not getting enough hot water, it may just be because you have the temperature dial on the wrong setting. This is a very easy fix.

Note that sometimes it’s wise to turn the thermostat up when the outside temperature falls. That’s because the hot water is more likely to cool as it travels through the pipes to the faucet or fixture.

Any time you adjust the temperature on your water heater, be careful to make only light adjustments. You don’t want to turn it too high and risk burning yourself.

Another possible fix: Test the temperature pressure relief valve. This is a part of the water heater that keeps pressure from building in the boiler. Lift or lower the handle to let extra water drain out. If this doesn’t work, you may need to have a new pressure relief valve installed. This is a task for a Carter professional plumber.

Another issue to consider is the dip tube, which supplies cold water to the unit. Sometimes, these tubes can become cracked or broken. When this happens, cold water mixes with the hot water. This tube can be replaced by a professional plumber. If the water heater is old, you may want to replace the whole thing.

First, consider whether yours is a gas-powered water heater. If so, then the issue you’re looking at it probably gas related. It could be that the pilot light is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If you have an electric water heater, the problem is likely with the heating element. Replacing a water heating element is a relatively small job. This is something a Carter plumber can help you with. Then, you’ll be back in business, with more than enough hot water.

Sometimes, water heaters can yield water that has an unusual aroma to it. Likewise, your water may come out looking discolored. Both are causes for worry, but what are the underlying issues? And how can they be fixed?

The issue may be with the water source. Pay attention to the smell and/or discoloration. Do they happen only with cold water? If so, then it’s a water source issue. You can fix this problem by installing a whole-house water filter. You’ll likely need a professional plumber to help with this.

But what if the problem is exclusively with hot water? If that’s the case, then the issue is with your tank. Something inside has started to corrode. There may be a reaction between the anode rod and sulfur in the water.

A related issue: What if your hot water has a garlic-like odor? This may suggest a problem with your pilot light. Turn off the gas control valve. Wait for the gas to dissipate. Then, reignite your pilot light. If this doesn’t work, turn off your gas supply and open windows or doors for ventilation. Call a Carter plumbing company or the gas company right away!

What does it mean when your water heater tank makes a lot of racket? A noisy tank could point to a few potential problems. Chances are, you’re dealing with one or more of these issues:

Now, you may sometimes hear what sounds like a boiling noise coming from your unit. This is a different kind of hot water heater problem. What it means is that your unit is overheating. You may have a dangerous build-up of pressure. Make sure you call a plumber ASAP to look at it.

Do you have a leaky water heater? If so, you’ll likely know it soon. Water will quickly spread out across your garage or utility room. (Or wherever you keep your hot water heater.)

So far, we’ve been discussing problems common to water heaters. The first step toward addressing your issue is to figure out what’s causing it. A Carter professional plumber can assist you with this.

Cost of labor.The pricing of water heater repairs can be variable. One of the big factors is cost of labor. A plumber may charge as little as $40 hourly. Or, they may charge more than $150. Repairing a heater usually takes two hours or less. However, this too can vary by the nature of the repairs.

These are just a few of the factors that can determine the cost of water heater repairs. Of course, the biggest factor of all is which partneeds to be repaired or replaced. That’s what we’ll discuss in the next section.

We have touched on each of these components already. Some repair jobs may involve other parts of the water heater. However, 90 percent of the time, the issue will be with one of these parts.

Most heaters actually have two thermostats. Each one corresponds with one of the elements. If either thermostat goes bad, the water won’t heat as efficiently.

The lower-most thermostat handles most of your water heating. If you have an especially big load of hot water, the upper thermostat will kick in. If either one goes out, you could notice that your hot showers don’t last as long. Or, there may be too much cold water mixed in with the hot water.

Sometimes, heaters fail due to mechanical issues. But sometimes, it’s simple wear and tear. Over time, units become corroded. If your unit is visibly corroded, it may be too late to save it. You may need to go ahead and spring for a replacement.

A faulty dip tube may cause your heater to stop working. Replacing one yourself may cost as little as $10. If you have it done by a professional plumbing company, you can expect to pay around $150.

What is a dip tube, exactly? This is the pipe that transfers cool water from the top of the tank, back down to the bottom. There, it can be reheated by the lower element. Over time, this tube can get worn out. It may even spring a leak. If this happens, cool water will be mixed in with hot water. This reduces the overall water temperature.

Finally, we come to the pressure valve. This is another small part of the heater that can sometimes fall into malfunction. Repairing this can cost anywhere from $20 to $200.

There are different factors that could cause the valve to go bad. Sometimes it just gets worn down. In other cases, it may have too much sediment build up. Either way, this is usually a matter to be handled by a professional.

So far, we’ve primarily focused on water heaters that are powered by electricity. However, gas water heaters can present their own issues and concerns.

When gas heaters have issues, they are usually related to the power source. Specifically, a gas heater may run into issues with any of the following components:

Gas water heaters can be a little more difficult to assess than electric water heaters. If your gas heater is not working, you may want to hire a professional plumber. Your plumber will be able to accurately diagnose the underlying issue.

You may wish to save yourself a few dollars by relighting the pilot light yourself. Only attempt this if you can completely follow the safety manual that accompanies your water heater. There are real dangers to playing with gas water heaters without the right precautions.

If you attempt to relight the pilot light and it doesn’t work, there may be another problem. Most likely, this is a problem with your thermocouple or gas control valve. See below for more information about these potential repairs.

Thermocouples serve a simple purpose. They detect whether the pilot light is lit. This in turn releases the gas control valve. Essentially, this just turns on the gas.

Finally, we come to the valve. What is the average cost of replacing the gas control valve? This is one of the more expensive fixes for a gas heater. It may cost between $300 and $500.

A couple of notes: One, this is a harder task than the two we previously mentioned. It’s less likely that you can do it on a DIY basis. Two, if you have a malfunctioning valve, that means your unit is dangerous. We recommend shutting off the gas supply. Then, call a plumber right away. This qualifies as an emergency service need.

As we come to the end of our guide, there are a couple of additional points to address. Understanding these points can make you a more responsible water heater owner.

Through daily use, your tank may accumulate debris and sediment. Over time, this sediment builds up. Eventually, this impedes your unit from working the way it’s supposed to. If your heater becomes noisy, that might mean there’s a sediment build-up.

You can avoid this problem by draining your tank on a regular basis. This is pretty easy to do. Most tanks will have a release valve where you can eliminate surplus water and sediment. Check out your owner’s manual for instructions on how to do this safely.

In some instances, it doesn’t make financial sense to repair your unit. We’ve mentioned this already: If your heater is close to the 15 year mark, it may be smart to replace it.

As you consider a new water heater, you’ll have several decisions to make. Not all water heaters are created equal. one decision you’ll need to make is whether you get a tankless water heater or one with a tank.

Both types of heater perform the same basic function. Namely, they supply your household with hot water. They go about it in different ways. A heater with a tank will store a certain capacity of hot water. Usually, this is 40 or 50 gallons. A tankless water heater doesn’t store water. Instead, it quickly heats water on demand, though a system of heating coils.

The bottom line: Homeowners depend on functional water heater units. If your water heater goes out, it diminishes your quality of life considerably. Prompt water heater replacement or repair is a must.

Do you have a water heater that needs to be repaired or replaced? Or do you have further questions about the cost of water heater repair work? Contact Carter’s My Plumber to speak with us about repairing your old water heater. Or, ask us about getting a new water heater! We provide water heater repair in Indianapolis, water heater repair in Greenwood, IN, Fishers Indiana, and Carmel Indiana.

So how much will water heater repair cost? The exact amount varies depending on the issues you’re facing, the time it takes to repair, and even the technician you hire.

The dip tube carries cold water to the bottom of the tank for heating. If the dip tube is corroded, blocked, or leaking, water heating won’t occur as efficiently.

The pressure relief valve makes sure your water tank pressure remains at safe levels. If pressure builds up too much, this valve opens to relieve some of that pressure.

If you notice that the valve is consistently leaking, it may mean that the tank’s pressure is too high, or you might simply have a faulty/clogged valve.

The function of the anode rod in your water tank is to prevent corrosion. It does this by taking on corrosion first—as long as the anode rod is corroding, your water tank and heating element won’t.

The thermostat regulates the temperature in your water heater. If there is more heat needed, it will turn on the heating elements. Once water is warm enough, the elements are turned off.

Electric heaters use a conductive metal element to heat the water. Therefore, if the element is corroded or stops functioning, you don’t get hot water.

Tankless water heatersare a relatively new technology that helps save you on water heating costs. Since they function quite differently from conventional water heaters, they will have their own unique issues.

Tankless water heaters require periodic flushing to keep mineral and sediment from building up inside the unit. Cleaning this buildup out will allow the unit to run more efficiently, so it’s recommended that you get your water heater tank flushed about once per year.

Water heater gas valve replacement costs $150 to $550 on average. Hot water heater gas control valve prices are $100 to $300 for the part alone, plus $50 to $250 for labor. Replacing a water heater pressure relief valve costs $50 to $300.

Consider replacing the entire water heater if the repair estimate is over $500 or the unit is more than 10 years old. Water heater replacement costs $600 to $1,800.

Costs to replace a gas control valve depend on the brand of the valve and labor. Diagnosing a failed gas valve involves troubleshooting several more common part failures, often leading to other potential repairs.

Gas control valve prices are $100 to $300 for the part alone, depending on the brand. The gas valve controls the flow of gas to the water heater"s burner, allows the pilot light to ignite, and shuts down the gas supply if the water temperature reaches critical heat limits.

Other water heater repairs cost $150 to $700on average, depending on the problem. Troubleshooting the gas control valve involves testing several more common malfunctioning parts, including the pilot light, ignitor, thermocouple, thermostat, or pressure relief valve.

Replacing a water heater pressure relief valve costs $50 to $300.The pressure relief valve, or TPR valve, is the most important safety device in the water heater. If the pressure inside the tank gets too high, the valve opens and releases water to prevent the tank from exploding.

DIY water heater gas valve replacement costs $100 to $300for the valve and $10 to $20 for the necessary tools and supplies like a screwdriver, wrench, and Teflon tape. Replacing the valve yourself saves $50 to $250 in labor costs.

If you smell gas, immediately shut off the gas supply and contact a plumber for emergency repairs. A faulty gas control valve may cause a dangerous gas leak, fire, or explosion.

Since these are also common signs of other component failures, rule out simpler repairs first. Check the pilot light, ignitor, and thermocouple before assuming the gas valve has failed.

Water heater gas valves are not always interchangeable. Brand-specific valve styles and connections ensure gas flow to the pilot and burner matches the heater"s BTU output. Different fuel sources, like natural gas, propane, and oil-fired heaters, use different valves.

A furnace gas valve replacement costs $200 to $800 installed. A replacement is more cost-effective than a furnace gas valve repair since the increased labor costs exceed the cost of a new part.

A leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve is a major concern, especially if it’s the first time dealing with this problem. While some people tend to panic and get help immediately, others may just shrug their shoulders and assume that the leak is a common occurrence. However, there are many causes of leaks in water pressure relief valves. And all these must be addressed immediately given the high risks of property damage and hazards that can occur if the issue is ignored.

The pressure relief valve gives steam and water a chance to escape when either the pressure or temperature in the water tank gets too high. A malfunctioning valve can cause the water heater to explode and is the major cause of water heater explosions. In water heater pressure relief valves, the valve is set to open when the pressure exceeds 150 psi.

A leaking valve is not always a broken valve. In some cases, a water heater’s pressure relief valve may leak because it is functioning as intended. As excess pressure is relieved out of your water heater system, some water may leak. This necessitates the need to test the pressure in your water heater.

The process is not complicated. However, if you are not comfortable checking the water pressure, you can always contact your technician. To test the pressure, use a pressure gauge and attach it to either the cold-water pipe or the hot water pipe. However, one of the easiest places to connect the pressure gauge is the outdoor hose faucets. For this, ensure you purchase a pressure gauge that is designed for garden hoses.

Turn off all water outlets and faucets. The pressure reading should be between 40 psi- 80 psi. If the gauge shows a psi reading of 150 and above, then the cause of the leak could be high pressure. If the water pressure is normal and the leak is persistent, then high water pressure is not the cause of the leak.

If you get a high-pressure reading, then you could be dealing with a closed plumbing system issue. This means that when the water is heated, the pressure increases as it should. But with nowhere to go, the valves open to relieve the pressure. Luckily, this can be solved by installing an expansion tank that gives the pressure an outlet other than a pressure relief valve.

Although rare, your water heater’s pressure relief valve could be leaking as a result of excessively high temperatures. However, the water has to be near the boiling point. To check the water temperature, ensure you turn on the hot water faucet. Run the water for one minute and use a meat thermometer to take the temperature reading. The temperature should be around 120 degrees. If more than this, then you need to have the water heater checked. The water temperature would need to be close to 212 degrees to set off the relief valve.

While this is an uncommon occurrence, it is not far-fetched. Your technician could have used a pressure valve for another appliance since they have the same function. However, these other pressure relief valves are set to go off at a lower psi. For instance, boiler pressure valves go off at 30 psi. If installed in a water heater, you are likely to get leaks immediately after installation. As such, if you have had your water heater for years and only experienced the leaks after a long period, then this is an unlikely cause of the leak.

A slight leak may occur if your water heater’s pressure relief valve has not been opened for a while, say a few years. While this leak is normal and may not be an indicator of a problem with the water heater system, you may need to replace the valve if the leak becomes more serious. It is cheaper to replace the entire valve than to repair it and have to deal with the same problem later on.

A leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve could also be caused by a faulty pressure relief valve. While pressure relief valves barely break down, excessive wear and improper installation can cause extensive damage. Unfortunately, a faulty pressure valve can not be repaired and must be replaced. However, the cost of pressure valves is affordable and ranges around $30.

Know your water heater and how it functions– Water heaters can be intimidating, especially for people with less technical know-how.  Understand what every part of the system plays in heating water such as the water shutoff valve, drain valve, thermostat, and pressure relief valve. This eases the maintenance routine and ensures you have a fair understanding of any malfunctions.

Insulate the pipes and the water heater– By insulating both the cold water and hot water pipes, you get to prevent condensation while also reducing heat loss. Also, insulating the water heater helps to keep water hot when surrounded by cold air.

Carry out regular maintenance– Inspect your water heater monthly, ensuring that all valves and pipes are in good shape. This also helps you catch corrosion and leaks early enough before they turn out to be bigger problems. And every year, carry out a water heater flush. Given that you cannot pinpoint all problems, have a qualified technician inspect the system annually.

Regardless of the possible cause of a leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve, please contact a qualified plumber as soon as possible. And if you think it’s a problem that you can solve without getting help, ensure you have a qualified plumber confirm that the system is performing optimally after. Water heater issues should not be taken lightly as they can cause more issues, even explosions.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

Temperature pressure relief valves play a vital role in protecting the safety of your water heater and your home. So when the relief valve starts leaking, Bay Area homeowners can be quite concerned. Today we’re going to answer the question, “Why is my water heater’s relief valve leaking?” and explain what you should do if it happens in your home!

When water is heated up inside of a water heater, thermal expansion causes the pressure inside of the tank to build up. If that pressure gets too high, your water heater runs the risk of exploding!

The temperature pressure relief valve is a safety mechanism that’s used to avoid this problem. If the temperature‘s  or pressure in your tank exceeds a certain level (often times 210 degrees and 150 psi), the relief valve opens up and allows some water to drain out of the tank. Cold water is then added to the tank in order to lower the temperature and pressure inside.

Your water heater’s relief valve can start leaking for one of two reasons: either the valve was triggered to open because of excessive temperature or pressure, or the valve itself is faulty. In the first case, the valve will drain water out of the discharge pipe as explained above. This may seem like a “leak,” but it’s really just the relief valve doing its job.

If the problem is a faulty valve, then you might have an actual leak. The valve might not seal properly, for instance, or the valve can get stuck and remain open (allowing water to continuously drain out).

No matter what caused your relief valve to start leaking, you should contact a professional plumber like Cabrillo as soon as possible. If the valve is frequently being triggered, we can determine why the temperature or pressure is getting too high in your water heater and fix the problem. If the valve has a leak, we can replace it with a new relief valve (a very common water heater repair).

If you have any questions about why your water heater’s relief valve is leaking, or if you’d like a plumbing system serviced or installed in your home, contact Cabrillo, your Bay Area plumbing, heating and air conditioning contractor.

I have did everythings you said but my valve still run water when I cut it back on. Even if the valve is cold it still run and have a lot of pressure. What should I do.

Maybe from now recommend turning the main supply line off. Today we changed a relief valve on a heater in an attic. The plumbing had been crossed. The shutoff was on the cold inlet side of the heater but the cold water was coming in to the hot side. Dip tube changed and c and h crossed. Not good is a understatement. Just an idea but thats how I will approach it from now on. Turn off main. Real fun going behind a sorry plumber

I had a leak from pressure valve which finally just blew across room. I replaced valve but when I turned the main water valve back on only upstairs water runs. I didnt turn anything else off but the gas and delmarva told me how to do that. for three days I have no water on 1st floor, but have water in basement and second floor. Help!

I have attempted to change the TPR valve b/c it has a slow leak, I have followed all the steps, however I am unable to remove(unscrew) the TPR valve. I had a 250lb man use his weight and a pipe wrench to try and remove the valve in order to replace it with a new one. A cheater won’t work b/c that 250lb man bent the relief valve drain pipe threads. Can I try to use WD-40 or some other trick of the trade to get the TPR valve off w/o damaging anything?

I replaced my old hot water tank about 2 years ago because no one I called could not get the overflow pipe to stop leaking, even after replacing the valve twice! Within 2 weeks of installing the new one…it started leaking too. As I forestated, that was 2 years ago…and it is still leaking. I am really frustrated about how to stop this leaking. The valve has been replaced on this once, and as of today, a plumber, who is a friend of ours lowered the pressure…?? and within an hour after he left, the leaking started again! What else can I do?? Thank you.

Am going to replace the valve, there are two to choose from, both have the same pressure specs, but one has a longer plastic rod or shaft protruding out the back of the valve, apparently into the tank. What does this rod do and what difference would it make between the longer and shorter versions (besides about $4.00) ?

Bought a brand new n gas heater. When all installed noticed water leaking from outside overflow pipe. Replaced pressure valve but cannot screw new pipe all the way. Threads are not grasping all the way. Have changed PV twice. PV seems to not fit properly are PV universal?

Hi I have a problem with pressure relieve valve for water heating system , the valve next and connected to tank above the furness ,leeks only when heating system is working , is that because of a lodging …? in the tank above the furness.

When water is coming out of the pressure relief valve on your water heater, it could signal that too much pressure is building up inside the water heater (which is what the valve is designed for) due to the burner or element not cutting off, in which case the water heater needs to be repaired or replaced. Or it could be a sign that the pressure relief valve itself is not closing properly, in which case all you need to do is replace the pressure relief valve on the water heater.

Out of dire necessity, I bought a new Hot Water Tank three weeks ago, the drip tube has leaked since installation. Replaced pressure relief valve twice with no change. Replaced Hot Water Tank (what a chore!) and the relief valve still leaks. We are on public water and never had any issue with pressure. I had a plumber do the last replacement of the valve and he says its impossible to keep leaking. And burner is working fine. But, it does leak! What can I do?? Is there a “wrong” way to install a drip tube? Should I try another tank?

That depends on whether the pressure relief valve is leaking around the threads where it attaches to the hot water tank or if it is leaking out of the inside of the valve itself. In either case, start by replacing the pressure relief valve, using a different brand in case the valve itself is defective. Make sure the threads on the valve seal to the tank without leaking using plumber’s thread compound. If the valve is leaking around the threads into the tank, the threads on the tank might be the problem. Good luck with your project!

Hello. I have a new hot water heater AND expansion tank (both less than two years old). There has always been water leaking from out of the side discharge tube but less than a gallon per week. Four months ago I had to replace the pressure guage, expansion tank, and both pressure values in my furnace. The hot water tank continued to leak at a slow rate. It was easy to keep up with. Today the water is pouring out of the discharge tube. About a gallon per hour. I turned off the heater and flipped the valve to release about four gallons of water. The leaking has stopped but I haven’t turned the hot water heater back on. I researched on line and discovered the main water line pressure may be too high. I can live with a slow leak but how do I fix the current problem? Do I need to completely drain the hot water heater? Thank you.

We noticed some time ago the hot water system overflow pipe was leaking water. It is under the house. I put a hose on the end of it to catch the water as I live in the country and am on water tanks water is vital. to my horror it driping at a fast rate. Loosing about a bucket in an hour or two. I also noticed the pressure relief value is hissing and a very small amount of water is coming from it. I have now turned off the (I think) input value but water is still coming out of the overflow pipe. I would pressume once the level of water in the tank goes down it will stop leaking. this tank is 18 years but most of its life it was turned off as its installed in a weekender. We now live in permanently. Are we wasting time getting a plumber or should we buy a new one???

It’s hard to say without actually examining your hot water tank whether the problem lies with the tank itself or the pressure relief valve. If the hot water worked okay and wasn’t excessively hot or steam didn’t come out when you turned on a faucet, the problem is probably with your pressure relief valve. Replacing the valve is a simple job for a plumber and doable for a DIYer that has some experience with plumbing. If you have turned off the cold water valve going into the tank, water should not continue to come out when you open a hot water faucet other than possibly a small drip.

Pressure relief valves have tapered pipe threads which require either Teflon tape or pipe joint compound (pipe dope) to seal properly. When using Teflon tape, be sure to use the recommended type for your application, and wrap it around the pressure relief valve in a clockwise direction (when looking at the inner end of the valve). If removing the valve and resealing it doesn’t stop the leak, there may be damage to the threads on either the valve or tank. Try replacing the relief valve to see if that stops it. If the valve still leaks, the threads in the hot water heater are probably damaged. I don’t know an easy fix for that, but you may want to have a plumber look at it to see if it can be fixed. Good luck with your project!

i turned off the water to water heater,opened the relief vavle on the side or the water heater. then i drained the water heater, now it leaks outside from the brass overflow,i need help its only two years old. can someone give me a tip on how to stop this type of leak?

The relief valve on my water heater is dripping, but stops when I shut off the main water line. It drips agian once the water line is turned on. The hot water that comes out of all the faucets in the house also seem hotter than normal. Could this be why the valve is leaking?

It’s possible that the water pressure in your house is too high due to a faulty thermostat on your water heater that’s causing it to superheat the water (try turning down the water heater to see if it lowers the hot water temperature), but the problem is probably a bad seal in the pressure relief valve. If so, the valve will probably need to be replaced. Good luck with your project!

My hot water heater is leaking from the overflow valve located on the side of my gas heater, my tub is half full but the water is cold, it probably has been weeping for months. My water seems to be very hot but my showers do not last long with hot water. Last night I actually had steam visible coming out of my faucets. The heater was manufactured in 2002, it is a State Select Product. The heater kicks on mainly once Hot water is used and the flame seems to be working fine in this reguard. Is this a hjeater going bad or is there a fix for the issues mentioned.

If you have steam coming out of the faucet, it sounds like the thermostat on the heater is not working right and allowing the water to get too hot, which could cause the pressure to build up in the lines to a dangerous level and may even rupture the pipes or cause the glue in plastic pipes to come loose. Since the hot water runs out quick, my guess is that your tank is also full of sediment. You could try draining the tank to remove the sediment and replacing the pressure relief valve, but it sounds like you’re due for a new water heater to me. Good luck with your project!

Thanks Ben Erickson, I actually went ahead and replaced the Pressure relief valve. Bad news, The valve is leaking again within the first use of the hot water. I did drain the tank and it yielded White particles, almost looked like chlorine or even pvc like cuttings. I will try the Thermostat next. I do have a expansion tank in the crawl space pretty far away from the heater, could the tank be bad thus forcing the Pressure valve to weep?

The only reasons I know of that would cause the pressure relief valve to leak are if the valve itself is defective (such as the gasket seal being bad) or if the pressure in your system is too high. You might want to have the utilitiy company or a home inspection service check your water pressure (both hot at the tank and cold at a faucet outside).

Thanks again Ben, the leaking has no signs at the threaded connection it is coming only out of the overflow stem pipe. no hint at the face of the tank. When I purchased the valve the service agent mentioned the cold water expansion tank could be bad. So you do not think the temp control mechanism is the problem here?

Ben, I should note, the valve starts leaking in the mid to end portion during the re-heating process. The cold water in-bound pipe gets very hot, once the water is used in the house the pipe then becomes very cold. Then after the flame process stops the drip from the overflow stops, this is not a consistent drip it only occurs during the heating up cycle.

Ben, I replaced both the water heater and the cold water Expansion tank, the exp-tank was shot, the heater was full of sedimant and leaking inside the unti as well. Thank You for responding to my problems, I will be back with future dilemmas, this is a great link, Enjoy The Presidents Day Holiday.

I have pooling from the inlet fittings on top of my (gas) hot water tank. I tried to tighten the fittings and they still leak. Do I need to replace the fittings.

We have a water leak. The plumber has narrowed it down to the hot water heater. With all water valves shut off (toilets, sinks, ice maker, washer and hot water heater), the meter stops running. When the cold water valve for the hot water heater is turned back on by itself, the meter runs. No visible water in or around the water heater. Currently using around 1 gallon of water per hour.

Turning off the cold intake valve to the water heater not only turns off the water to the hot water heater, but also to all the hot water pipes in the house. If the water heater itself isn’t leaking, the leak must be either in the hot water pipes or the hot water side of a faucet. If the pipes run in an attic, basement, or crawlspace, follow each of the hot water pipes and look for leaks. If they’re buried under the house, look for damp or wet soil in the crawlspace, if they’re embedded in a concrete slab, it will be hard to find the leak and impossible to fix it if you do without rerouting the pipe. Good luck with your project!

i was told there too mush pressure in the tank i told them there not hot water yet and still leaks out of the values i guess 2 things but not sure please help…will draining a tank reduce pressure an why is there pressure come from if no hot water yet…..and will a baldder tank help….thanks garth

we have replaced the pressure valve on our water heater 4 times now and as soon as we do it keeps hissing and releasing water. We have an expansion tank and back flow preventer. We have been in this house for 5 years and this problem just started a year ago. The water heater was manufactured in 2004 – does this mean we should get a new water heater? Uggghhh!

The pressure valve on our water heater is flowing freely. Our house used to be on well water and on the cold water inlet line to the water heater there is a reverse-flow valve, but we are now on rural water. I suspect that this valve is causing, or increasing the leak from the water heater, is this possible? Do I need a reverse-flow valve or can I remove it? Would it be better to add an expansion tank?

Our hot water heater started leaking from the temp/pressure release valve pipe. A slow steady leak. We lowered the hot water temperature setting significantly and after about 1-1.5 hrs it stopped leaking. We slowly increased temperature over 2 days to see if it would leak again and then it did once we got close to previous temp. Since then (2-3 weeks)we have had it lowered to a lukewarm temp. and no further leaks. Is this likely a problem with the valve? the thermostat? the hot water heater is 10 years old.

If the water coming out of the tank isn’t excessively hot and the water pressure in your house isn’t overly high, the problem is probably a defective pressure relief valve. Depending on the type and model of pressure relief valve, they are generally set to open at pressures over 125 to 150 p.s.i., or temperatures over 210 degrees F, pretty extreme conditions. Since a pressure relief isn’t very expensive (usually under $15) I would start by replacing it to see if that solves your problem. Good luck with your project!

I have Bradford White gas water heater. The relief valve is on the side. I removed the plastic cover around it and leak is right from under the valve where insulation of the heater is. I can clearly see relief valve connecton to the heater and it’s not leaking. Does that mean I have tank corrosion on the side or there are some other pipes installed under the cover that might leak ?

have Bradford White gas water heater. It is leaking right at the connection into the water tank? Possible corrosion. Will we need to replace the T&P valve also or just remove and seal the connection better??

I have a slow leak from my relief valve…about 1 cup worth in a weeks time. i have replaced the valve twice and continue to get the slow leak. i have no other issues with the water heater pressure or heat wise…the water heater is about ten years old. is it time to call a plumber?

If the leak is coming from inside the pressure relief valve, replacing it with one rated for the PSI of the water pressure in your house should fix it. If the leak is coming from the threads around the pressure relief valve, then you need to use the proper thread sealant or tape when installing the valve. If the threads around the valve are still leaking after sealing them, there may be a problem with the threads on the relief valve opening in the water heater, and you would probably need a plumber to fix it. Good luck with your project!

hi, i have a hot water that is leaking from the drain in the side of the hot water heater, how do i get it to stop.If you can tell me step by step what to do. It has been leaking for about a week. It is hot water coming out of the drain.

I have electric hot water heater and cut it down very low and in the vacation mode since I was going to be gone about 2 weeks. I came home and cut it to about 125 or 130 probably and now it is hissing and just a couple drops of water I could feel around the pressure valve. Should I panic and call a plumber right away or did it do this because it had been set so low for 2 weeks? I cut it down to about 100 when the hissing started.

Over the past month, my water heater has been leaking through the relief valve, but it is not a steady drip. It only seems to happen late at night (midnight – 7am), and is not a constant release, but more bursty. It was only slight at first, but it is now much more noticable. the relief valve sees to be opening and closing fine, so would this point more to a input pressure issue, or could this still be a relief valve issue?

I have read the entire column as posted here but cannot find what exactly sounds like my issue. The hot water heater was off completely for several months. When it was first turned back on and relit (gas with pilot), had issues with, hopefully, thermocouple, which am getting ready to change now. Upon relighting, which it kept lit until used for first time, noted a leak of water from around the threads to the relief valve to the pipe that runs down the side. There does not seem to be any leak at the pipe itself on the bottom (inside wipe with finger, finger comes out dry). Also noted that, even tho heater has been off since the relight and thermocouple issues, the leak continues tho not as heavy as when it was relit. Again, it is not leaking down the pipe, just at the junction/threads where the pipe enters the relief valve. There does not seem to be any other leaks inside or outside the tank. Just this one at the outside threads to pipe. Is this just a threads issue, as in should I remove pipe and use the plumbers tape stuff and put back on, or is it something where I will have to replace the relief valve itself?

Quick question. My husband noticed that he was able to hear water running from the sink in his bathroom. In my bathroom you can’t hear water running. There is no water pouring out and there are no places outside where the water is standing. He suspects that it could be leaking within the concrete floors, although you can’t even tell by the floors that there in a leak, you only hear water running. What do you think it could be. Also, the hot water use to come out cold, you had to run it awhile to get hot water, now you can turn it on and get hot water. Thanks for any help you can give us!!

i have a problem with a electric water heater i have a pretty steady small flow leak from behind the pressure releif valve i had it since 1995 and it started leaking yesterday. do i need to replace the valve or the water heater itself?

My hot water heater was working fine until I raised the top thermostat. I did not raise the bottom one. Now the releif valve drains when the heater is turned on at the breaker. I turned the thermostat back down and turned the heater off at the breaker but kept the cold supply turned on. the valve does not drain unless I lift the valve toggle manually, but water seeps from around the threads of the valve. Have I blown a thermostat,need to replace pressure valve or have I made an expensive mistake and now need a new heater? Please Help!

I just bought a place and had the water turned on today, well when the guy turned on the water, water shot out of the pressure relief valve w the valve shut off. Whant could cause this?… Maybe to much water pressure… Would it be ok to just replace the pressure relief valve on the top of my hot water heater?

The home I rent has a gas water heater. Today when I went into the basement, there was substantial water draining out of a long plastic tube leading from the hot water heater. The end of the tube had apparantly been elevated at one point, as I found the duct tape showing the beam it was attached to, but had fallen. What is this?

Our hot water heater had collected sediment and was making a loud popping noise so we contracted with a local plumbing company to have them drain and refill the heater. (our unit is in the attic and did not want to try this ourselves). When I got home from work the following evening, the heater had leaked. The ceiling was completely soaked with a giant hole in it as well as hardwood floor damage. Unit was less than 4 years old, still under warranty with an expansion tank installed. We were told that the T&P valve had gone bad but I find it hard to believe that it would go bad less than 24 hours after the unit was drained. Sounds more like they didn’t completely cut off the drain valve after the work was completed. How likely is it for T&P valve to go bad on a relatively new unit? And would draining a heater require the plumber to do anything on the T&P valve?

I tried to replace my gas water heater pressure release valve, but when I went to remove the old valve, the inside piece fell into the tank, how do I get the piece out?

The tank for my domestic (well) water system was just professionally replaced. Now the pressure relief valve on my boiler is leaking at a rate of about 2 gals/day. Should I replace the valve?

HI DANNY . JUST PURSHASED A NEW HYBRID WATER HEATER 2 WEEKS AGO ALSO INSTALLED A NEW WHOLE HOUSE WATER FILTER. NOTICED 3 DAYS AGO THAT MY TEMP RELEIF VALVE IS DRIPPING WONDERING WHAT WOULD CAUSE THIS TO BE HAPPENING. THANK YOU ART

Tpr valve on hot water heater will leak small amounts of waters from time to time filling a small dish daily, I’ve replaced valve twice and the and replacedthermostat , valve continues to release water. Any thoughts to help .

Electric water heater: Very Very Hot water was coming out of the relief valve, we shut off the cold water, it quit. We then flipped the breaker for it.

My hot water heater tank is old, but I don’t know how old. It is electric. Last year I replaced the burners and thermostat(s? both if there are two, i can’t remember now without running out to look at it). In other words, I replaced all the parts, including the pressure relief valve. Recently I had a leak from the hot water pipe, close to the connection at the top (it is important to note that this is a mobile home previously owned by some cheap-ass and the pipes coming out of that thing look like a nightmare!). My friend fixed the leak by replacing several pipes with new stuff, and did a good job of it. Two days ago I noticed another leak, however it is impossible to tell where it is coming from. What is clear is that there is (rusty/red/sediment) water pooling around the two top connections (hot and cold water outs) and the pressure relief valve. The panels that usually cover the electrical components – thermostat, etc- are gone and as that plus some insulation is exposed for top and bottom thermostats, you can see that these areas too are soaked! It seems to me that there is some sort of leak or crack at the top INSIDE the water heater, and this is spilling out basically everywhere.

I’ve turned the hotwater heater off, but water is still on. I am extremely poor this summer, jobless, and 8.5 mo pregnant! I can’t afford a new heater, but perhaps a new shell and pop out all my components into a ‘new’ or newer shell…. Maybe you have an answer or suggestion. Thank you!

My hot water heater is leaking out the bottom (set on bricks off the concrete floor) It leaks cold water, not hot anyway. If I turn off the supply line it continues to leak out the bottom until I open the pressure relief valve and release the pressure. The TPR appears fine and dry. I’m confused because if it were a tank leak I would think the leak would increase when opening the pressure valve but instead it stops. Would lack of dip tube maintenance cause this?

We did not have any hot water….we took the cover off of the water heater and found that the thermostat had caught on fire. We have a single element system. We replaced the thermostat and turned the water heater back on. My son took a shower over an hour later and then my husband went to wash his hands after that and he heard the water heater start to spew water out of the top. It is a side mounted water heater so there is no piping in the top of the tank. What would be causing this and how does it need to be fixed?

Water was leaking from pressure valve overflow. Replaced the pressure valve, but it is still leaking. Checked lower element with tester and it does not seem to be working. Would the lower element leaking cause the upper element not to shut off and create the excessive pressure?

My 11 year old gas water heater is leaking heavily in the pressure relief valve since this morning. The valve is on the top of heater. No leaks in the past. Shut the gas and cold water inlet, and drained the water out. Replaced the PRV with new one and turned the cold water inlet on. Gas was still shut off and hence the heater was off. Still leaking heavily in the PRV. Do I have to replace the heater, or is there anything I can do to fix the existing one? Thank you very much.

I have water running out of my overflow constantly and after a relief valve replacement ,as suggested by many there is still water pouring out of the overflow . Have you heard of this problem before? I have read many stories of this problem but no answers .

Brand new whirlpool gas heater installed. pressure relief valve drips a few drops every 10 -14 days. not more than maybe 10 drops of water.—-is that a concern? I have a small plastic container to catch drops, so i know when it drips.

Had a Bradford White gas hot water heater installed today and there is a tiny drop of water come out near the relief valve up near where the thread is located. I then trickles down the tank leaving small beads of water. Will this resolve itself with daily use and seal itself or what should I do? I don’t want my brand new heater having any type of leaks.

i have a pretty old water heater. and recently started constantly leaking out of the overflow valve. it has actually doubled my power bill. would you say it is the over flow valve needs to be replaced? everything else seems to work fine. It is Rheem.

Sometimes a pressure relief valve will reseat itself or you can try opening and closing it a time or two, but if it doesn’t stop leaking after a couple of days, your best bet is to replace it.

i have a 40 gallon electric hot water boiler with an expansion tank attached to it,in the past wk the tank gave out,i replaced the tank an now the boiler blows off,it has the right pressure in tank,i also changed the relief valve an 2 thermostats,with no success.any ideas

Electric hot water tank overflow valve has been leaking for about a year. My plumber has replaced the hot water tank (it was due), installed an expansion tank, replaced the overflow valve and the pressure reduction valve. Its still leaking! Not a huge amount, probably a liter/24 hours. When we tested the water pressure it was between 80 – 110 psi. Running out of things to do. Thoughts? Thanks.

I’m not sure if its required to be piped outside but right now it isn’t and just dumps water onto the floor of the crawl space (which is next to the drain so no big problem).

Im having problems with my pressure relief valve leaking after I take a shower. I replaced the relief valve and it is still doing the same thing so I bought a new hot water heater and pressure relief valve. It still hasn’t fixed the problem can you please give me some insight on my problem because I have ran out of ideas to fix the issue.

We were having problems with our water heater leaking (alot of water)and hissing from high pressure we replaced the release valve and it was still hissing from too much pressure and leaking a lot of water when we turn off the water (cold water coming into the water heater and turn the hot water on inside the house there is very little water left and it is never really hot even when the water is on.We replaced the water heater and it is still having the same problem.My husband is thinking that maybe our problem is because our swamp cooler shares the water line with the water heater but the water heater leaks from too much water pressure the second i turn the water on. We don’t know what to do anymore we have no water we haven’t had constant running hot water(sometimes we turn it on to shower and wash dishes) for a over a month and our water bill is twice what it used to be

I recently had a Rheem Water Heater installed and once all connections were properly completed and connected the unit with the water system it profusely keeps leaking water once the Water Heater fills up. We installed a brand new Temperature Pressure valve but once connected to the water system problem persist – water leaks. What could be the problem

65 gal Bradford White electric water heater installed in 1995. Every couple of months five to ten gallons of hot water leak from the bottom of the tank on to the basement floor. What can cause this?

Even at very low temperature settings (even just a notch above the ‘vacation’ setting) our water heater spews massive amounts of water out of the relief valve pipe. The water temperature itself is luke warm at best.

I tried going notch by notch turning up the temperature a bit everytime the burner would stop. I couldn’t even make it to the ‘warm’ setting before it began releasing the water. It’s a propane run heater, if that makes a difference. Thanks for any advice.

Yes i would like to know if after changing a pressure relief valve. How long does the dirty water come out of the faucet. We ended up draining the whole tank by accident and i have all of the dirt from the bottom of the tank floating around or is the tank shoot. Thank you

A while back we had our roads and water lines replaced.During construction my inline water pressure reducer was weeping water.The city engineer said it was likely due to temporary hook up to water lines used for hydrents and water pressure was 125 psi.When project was finished my water heater started leaking from overflow valve.It was an older heater so I replaced it and had same problem.Had the city water dept.check water pressure coming into house and it was 148psi.I am up to 5 gallons per 90 min coming out of the overflow valve.I have to shut the water of at main house shut off when I am not using water.The water that comes out is warm,not hot.Thermostat is set at 125 degrees.I know most relief valves are designed for approx. 125 to 150 psi.My water reducing valve before the water meter is new and only opened approx. half way.Any ideas or suggestions?The city will not do anything,they say it was the road contractors responsibility and their fault that they hooked me up to a high pressure line and not the normal water line.No one else in my neighborhood has this issue.Thank you,Steve P

I am about like Steve above. Recent water line work (on main road) by water dept etc at my lake cabin which I shut off and drain for the winter. Turn water and water heater (WH)on and a day later noticed it began to drip. Pu