hot water safety valve shower factory

IC/SP scald protection valves are installed within the heated system and are purely water temperature sensing. The IC/SP scald protection valve will initiate flow when the thermostatic actuator senses water temperature above the valve’s set-point (typically 98°F [36.7°C]) and will remain open as long as the discharge water temperature is within 10˚F of the open set-point (typically above 95°F [35°C]). The thermal actuator is always wetted, making this valve preferable for heat traced lines where scald protection flow is not required unless heat tracing fails.

A safety hazard for plant personnel can occur when utilizing safety showers, facewash, or eyewash stations if overheating of the pipes caused by solar radiation or steam/electric tracing results in extremely high temperatures at the point of use. For this reason, a scald protection valve should be implemented to protect facility personnel from excessively hot temperatures being released from the fixture and causing severe damage to the skin.

The IC/SP valve prevents this safety hazard. When installed in safety showers, eyewash stations, and other locations exposed to the same source of overheating as the system, the IC/SP will be heated just as the pipe system. The valve will open to establish flow until the over-temperature water is eliminated and it will then modulate closed.

Building Quality Mixing Valves is what we do at Leonard. At the same time we offer the industries best Service. It starts with the Best Engineers, followed by the most technically knowledgeable Regional Sales Managers, topped off with the industries best Specification Reps. Our team of experts are easily accessible and have decades of market experience and knowledge on Mixing Valves and Mixing Valve Systems. Learn More

Every building is different and all manufacturers of mixing valves pipe recirculation uniquely. We have a video to help explain the basic design of a tempered recirculation system with a Master Mixer. This video will help the plumbing professional select the proper piping method for the job. Learn More

American Society of Sanitary Engineers publishes product standards of safety for plumbing systems.There are 5 major standards for mixing hot and cold water. Four of these standards are mentioned specifically in both the IPC and UPC Plumbing codes as well as the four states that use their own codes (California, Illinois, Wisconsin, and New Jersey).Commercial building require ASSE certified valves. Click below to understand how and when to use these valves. As always, you may contact a Leonard Sales/Engineering Specialist for assistance. Learn More

Our expert team of sales engineers can help you with all stages of your project — valve design & selection, plumbing & building code and specification assistance. Some of our professional installs are shown here. View Installs

Model 9201EFE (patent pending) is a thermostatic mixing valve that mixes hot and cold water to supply tempered water of up to 12 gpm (45.4 L) for emergency eyewash fixtures. Unit employs a paraffin filled thermostatic mixing element. Lowest internal pressure drop where supply pressure is low, and a high Cold Water Bypass flow rate of 10 gpm (37.8 L). The improved brass design with a one piece casting uses internal check stops, over-sized valve seats, a shuttle design that eliminates valve binding, and a funnel design to improve temperature control with better mixing at low flow rates. Lime and calcium resistant components are used throughout. The outlet temperature factory setting is 85° F (29° C). Maximum operating pressure: 125 psi (8.62 Bar). Temperature adjustment range 60 - 90° F (16 - 35° C). Min/max inlet hot water temperature: 120°/180° F (49°/82° C), with recommended inlet temperature: 140° F (60° C). Min/max inlet cold water temperature: 40°/70° (4.4°/21.1° C). Inlet 1/2" NPT(F). Outlet 3/4" NPT(F).

All Delta tub and shower faucets are engineered to keep the water temperature within a safe ±3.6° F (±1.7° C)*. This technology makes sure your family doesn’t experience a sudden and possibly unsafe change in water temperature as a result of running water elsewhere, such as using a dishwasher, flushing a toilet or running a washing machine.

Delta thermostatic tub and shower faucets are built with TempAssure valves, while pressure balance tub and shower faucets are built with Delta Monitor valves. Both feature an adjustable handle limit stop that, when properly set, helps ensure the handle cannot be turned to a position that is too hot for comfort.

Scalding hot water from fixture faucets and fittings accounts for more than 25 percent of all scald burns in children. The elderly and the physically impaired also are at increased risk of scald burns because they have thinner skin and slower reactions. They often cannot recognize a hazard and get out of harm’s way before a serious burn can occur.

I have always said, “Scald burns and Legionella bacteria growth in hot water systems, which can lead to Legionnaires’ disease, are 100 percent preventable.”

Scalding and Legionella bacteria can be controlled when domestic hot water systems are designed, installed and maintained to keep hot water storage and distribution temperatures above the maximum Legionella growth temperature of 122 F.

Appropriate temperature controls must be used at or near fixtures to reduce the maximum hot water delivery temperature from fixtures to 120 F or below.

The attempt to prevent scalding and thermal shock injuries which often lead to slip and fall injuries was the driving force that brought about the invention of temperature control devices. In 1924, a plumbing manufacturer developed the first shower valve with a pressure-compensating element to address thermal shock common in two-handled shower valves.

Shower faucets before then typically had two-handled faucets that allowed the water from the hot and cold-water system to be mixed in a mixing chamber. A two-handled faucet or shower valve would have sudden changes in temperature as other fixtures were used in the plumbing system, which caused pressure disturbances that, in turn, caused sudden changes in temperature — either hot or cold.

The two-handled design provided the opportunity for a bather to receive serious scald injuries if someone accidentally turned off the cold water first while bathing or showering, which would leave only the hot water flowing to the shower. The original design had a pressure-balancing piston to adjust for thermal shock.

A couple of decades after the introduction of the pressure-balancing shower valve, newer designs of the valves entered the market. Other manufacturers developed additional safety components for shower valves, which included a maximum temperature limit-stop adjustment.

The limit stop adjustment allowed a single-handle valve to be manufactured and installed with a field-adjustable maximum temperature setting to a temperature at or below 120 F. The single-handle opened to the cold-water flow first and, as the handle was rotated farther, the valve added more hot water.

Hot water is often stored at or around 140 F, which was, and still is, the basis for water heater storage temperatures in many manufacturers’ equipment sizing calculations.

In uncirculated hot water tanks, the stored hot water temperatures could rise significantly above 140 F due to thermal layering (heat rising to the top of an uncirculated water heater).

Another phenomenon that causes the hot water temperatures to rise significantly above the water heater thermostat set-point is stacking. It occurs when there are multiple, intermittent, short draws of hot water from a water heater, causing cold water to enter the bottom of the hot water tank. The thermostatic element senses the cold water and turns on the burner, even when the water at the top of the water heater is well above the thermostat setting.

The ASSE Product Performance Standards for these devices are: ASSE 1016/ASME A112.1016-2011/CSA B125.16-11, Performance Requirements for Automatic Compensating Valves for Individual Showers and Tub/Shower Combinations; ASSE 1017, Performance Requirements for Temperature Actuated Mixing Valves for Hot Water Distribution Systems; ASSE 1062, Performance Requirements for Temperature Actuated Flow Reduction (TAFR) Valves for Individual Fixture Fittings; ASSE 1066, Performance Requirements for Individual Pressure Balancing In-Line Valves for Individual Fixture Fittings; ASSE 1069, Performance Requirements for Automatic Temperature Control Mixing Valves; ASSE 1070/ASME A112.1070-2015/CSA B125.70-15, Performance Requirements for Water Temperature Limiting Devices; ASSE 1071, Performance Requirements for Temperature Actuated Mixing Valves for Plumbed Emergency Equipment; ASSE 1082, Water Heaters with Integral Temperature Controls for Distribution Systems. (Currently finalized, awaiting board approval as of this writing.); ASSE 1084, Water Heaters with Integral Temperature Controls for Point-of-Use Applications. (Currently finalized, awaiting board approval as of this writing.); ASSE 1085, Water Heaters with Integral Temperature Controls for Use with Emergency Fixtures. (Currently under development as of this writing.)

In some applications, installing the wrong device or installing the device in the wrong location can lead to potentially serious scalding situations, thus exposing the end user to potentially scalding hot water temperatures. Furthermore, installing the wrong device can lead to a false sense of security by the ultimate user. Therefore, it is extremely important to make sure installation of the proper device is in the proper location. It must be maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation and maintenance instructions.

Shower and Tub/Shower Combination Valves (ASSE 1016). Shower valves that comply with ASSE 1016 are automatic temperature and/or pressure-compensating valves intended to be installed at an individual shower or tub/shower combination fixture.

The model plumbing codes require all shower and tub/shower fixtures to have temperature controls that comply with ASSE 1016-2011/ASME A112.1016-2011/CSA B125.16-11, Performance Requirements for Automatic Compensating Valves for Individual Showers and Tub/Shower Combinations.

These devices are intended to control the water temperature to wall-mounted or ceiling-mounted hand-held showers; showerheads; body sprays, either in the individual shower or tub/shower combination fittings; and tub spouts, when part of tub/shower combination fittings.

There are three different types of shower valves meeting this standard: pressure-balancing, thermostatic (mechanical and electronic) and combination pressure balancing and thermostatic.

The showerhead flow rate must not be less than the manufacturer’s published minimum flow rate for the valve (device). The temperature limit stop must be set at the time of installation and may need to be periodically adjusted for variations in water temperatures. These devices provide both scald and thermal shock protection.

Temperature-actuated mixing valves for hot water distribution systems are used for controlling in-line water temperatures in domestic hot water systems to a relatively uniform temperature.

These valves should comply with ASSE 1017, Performance Requirements for Temperature Actuated Mixing Valves for Hot Water Distribution Systems or a comparable CSA standard listed in the code. When used, installation of these devices should be at or near the outlet of the hot water source only.

These valves are designed to provide a relatively uniform water temperature to the hot water distribution system, which makes setting maximum temperature limit stops in the system more reliable than a system without a mixing valve where uncirculated water heater discharge temperatures can vary by more than 30 F greater, or 15 degrees less, than the water heater thermostat set-point.

ASSE temperature-actuated mixing valves allow the water to be stored and distributed at higher, more stable temperatures, extending the amount of hot water available and also reducing the chance of Legionella bacteria growth in the tank and distribution piping. (See ASHRAE 188 and ASHRAE Guideline 12.)

These valves are not intended for point-of-use applications because of the large temperature variation. Valves must be sized to match the flow requirements of the system and not sized based on the pipe size (see Table 1). Further mixing downstream is allowed to provide final temperature control to protect against scalding. These devices used alone do not provide thermal shock protection or adequate scald protection.

To prohibit the cross-flow of hot or cold water through the valve, supplementary check valves should be installed for devices that do not include integral check valves by the manufacturer.

Temperature-actuated, flow reduction (TAFR) valves, when used, should be installed on the discharge outlet of the fixture fitting or integrated into fixture fittings.

These valves must comply with ASSE 1062-2006, Performance Requirements for Temperature Actuated Flow Reduction (TAFR) Valves for Individual Fixture Fittings.

They are intended for use in-line with, or integrated into, individual plumbing supply fittings such as showerheads, bathtubs, whirlpool bathtubs, utility sink faucets, kitchen sinks and lavatory faucets.

These devices can be used on existing fixtures such as the showerhead associated with an older-style two-handle, nonpressure or temperature-compensating shower valve to provide scald protection. Typically, a TAFR device is used in an existing installation where no other form of scald protection is provided.

TAFR valves are not intended to be installed in place of devices complying with ASSE 1016, ASSE 1017, ASSE 1066, ASSE 1069 or ASSE 1070. These devices provide an additional level of scald protection only and do not provide thermal shock protection.

Caution: These valves automatically reduce discharge flow to a trickle if water temperature exceeds a preset limit. This trickle can be as much as 0.25 gallons per minute (0.95 L/m). When this device is installed on a bathtub spout and the outlet temperature exceeds the preset limit, and if the bathtub drain is closed, the bathtub could fill with extremely hot water from this allowable trickle.

Automatic pressure-balancing in-line valves are used to equalize incoming hot and cold-water line pressures. This minimizes mixed water temperature variations due to pressure fluctuations when used in conjunction with a mixing valve or two-handle valve set.

These valves must comply with ASSE 1066, Performance Requirements for Individual Pressure Balancing In-Line Valves for Individual Fixture Fittings. They are not designed to limit the maximum outlet temperature at the point-of-use. These devices provide thermal shock protection for pressure disturbances only and do not provide scald protection if the incoming hot or cold-water temperature changes.

Water temperature-limiting devices are intended to limit the hot or tempered water temperature supplied to fittings for fixtures such as sinks, lavatories, bidets or bathtubs to reduce the risk of scalding.

These devices must comply with ASSE 1070-2015/ASME A112.1070-2015/CSA B125.70-15, Performance Requirements for Water Temperature Limiting Devices. They are intended to supply hot or tempered water to plumbing fixture fittings or be integral with plumbing fixture fittings supplying hot or tempered water.

These devices have an integral water temperature-limiting capability. The user control allows the outlet temperature to be adjusted up to a maximum temperature of 120 F (49 C). They provide scald protection only and do not provide thermal shock protection.

Temperature-actuated mixing valves are intended to be used as a component to provide tepid water for emergency eye wash, eye wash/shower, drench showers and combination units that comply with the requirements of ANSI Z358.1.

These valves must comply with ASSE 1071-2012, Performance Requirements for Temperature Actuated Mixing Valves for Plumbed Emergency Equipment. These valves, by themselves, do not meet the requirements of ANSI Z358.1.

They consist of a hot water inlet, a cold-water inlet, a mixed water outlet, a temperature controlling element and a means for adjusting the mixed water outlet temperature while in service. These valves also have the means to limit the maximum outlet temperature under normal operating conditions.

Provisions shall be made so that the temperature cannot be inadvertently adjusted. These valves shall include a means of preventing cross-flow. Ideally, these devices are intended to be installed as close as possible to the plumbed emergency equipment. These valves provide scald protection only and do not provide thermal shock protection. They provide cold water bypass flow in the event of hot water failure.

Note: ASSE 1071 devices should be installed at individual fixtures. Emergency plumbed equipment must be flushed frequently, per industry standards, or per the water management or water safety plan to minimize stagnant water.

The shower temperature control valve manages the upper limit of the heat of your shower or bath, along with the temperature settings on your hot water heater. There are two different kinds of control valves you can install to automatically control the hot water flow to your tub and shower, according to the writers at PlumbingSupply.com. It"s important to know how to properly control this temperature, as it is a safety issue.

Pressure balance valves control the ratio of hot to cold water as it mixes, preventing an imbalance from water usage elsewhere in the house. However, this does not actually limit the water’s overall temperature.

Pressure balance valves regulate the ratio of hot to cold water so that if someone flushes a toilet or starts the laundry, the cold water drawn away from the shower won’t result in your warm shower suddenly being composed of purely hot water. Note that this valve doesn’t consider the storage temperature setting of your hot water heater.

Legionella bacteria (the cause of Legionnaires Disease) are among many that enjoy the dark warm environment inside a hot water heater. Bacteria are one of the primary reasons you don’t want to use hot water from the faucet for medical applications like a neti pot. While this bacteria can survive in temperatures up to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, 140 degrees is inhospitable to most bacteria.

If you are adjusting temperature on shower valves, you"ll first need to understand what temperature to aim for. The experts at American Home Shield warn that the problem with keeping all water heaters at 140 degrees Fahrenheit or higher is that exposure to water that hot causes severe burns within 5 seconds.

The writers at PHCP Pros explain the history behind built-in temperature limiters, stating that the main point was to keep water heaters at a hot enough storage temperature. This temperature prevented the breeding of bacteria and allowed people to shower without the fear of burning themselves.

Most limiter valves come with a factory preset that stops your shower handle once it moves from the off-position to the “full hot”-position. This is designed as a safety mechanism. A shower handle with the limiter set to its zero position (water heater temperature) will rotate further. In homes where bathrooms are a significant distance from the hot water heaters, a lower setting on the limiter can help prevent tepid showers.

To adjust the upper limit of mixed hot and cold water, you’ll need to access the valve underneath the shower handle in single-handle/mixer style showers. Most shower handles are connected with a set screw, usually a miniature flat-headed screw or a hex-head. On the Moen temperature control shower handle, that screw is underneath the handle part itself, so loosening it can be awkward. Once you’ve removed the screw, you should be able to pull the handle directly away from the wall and off of the assembly.

After removing the handle, you should see a Phillips-head screw in the center of the assembly. Unscrewing this lets you remove the plastic mount piece, revealing the restrictor valve. Pulling this directly out from the wall will remove the set of 2 white plastic rings. If you separate the two rings, you can re-combine the two so that the smaller ring’s indicator aligns with the larger ring’s “zero” setting. In this position, you have removed the restriction.

If you open the handle fully, the water will come out as hot as possible, given your hot water heater settings. By extension, if you want to lower the hot water ratio, re-combine the two rings such that the smaller ring’s indicator is further to the right from the larger ring’s zero setting. Put the reassembled rings back onto the handle assembly, followed by the plastic mount and the Phillips-head screw. Replace the handle and secure it in place with the smaller set screw. Test the water temperature and see if it’s too hot or cold, re-adjusting as needed.

If the water temperature is above what your local plumbing code allows (110° F or 120° F), remove the handle or take off the temperature knob and rotate the rotational limit stop as follows:

Turn the limit stop counterclockwise For every tooth the rotational limit stop is rotated counterclockwise, the maximum water temperature will decrease approximately 6° F. NOTE: If your water temperature is too cool, rotate the limit stop clockwise.

MAKE SURE COLD WATER FLOWS FROM THE VALVE FIRST. ALSO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR WATER (AT ITS HOTTEST FLOW) DOES NOT EXCEED THE TEMPERATURE ALLOWED (see steps 1-4 above).

Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

Well, it could be Opposite Day. But it’s more likely that the water lines may have been connected in reverse. See, cold water should always come on first when you’re operating a Monitor valve. And then rotating the handle counter-clockwise should increase temperature. If that’s not the way things are happening, you may be able to correct the problem by "flipping" the pressure balancing cartridge, as shown in the diagram below.

Here are the steps to follow in reversing the operation of your faucet.Before you begin, make sure that you’ve shut off the water supply to the faucet.

Unscrew the bonnet nut. The bonnet nut is a large brass ring and should unscrew by hand. If it’s too tight to remove by hand, wrap a towel around the bonnet (to protect the finish) and unscrew it with a pair of channel locks. Make sure that the entire valve body does not start to rotate as you do this. Remove the bonnet nut.

Do not pry the valve cartridge out of the body with a screwdriver. Place the handle on the cartridge stem and rotate it counterclockwise approximately 1/4 turn after the stop has been contacted. Remove the handle. Grasp the brass stem in the center of the white plastic assembly and pull it directly out, away from the wall. The valve cartridge should slide out of the body.

Reinstall the cartridge after rotating the entire unit 180 degrees. Make sure that the raised plastic stop, marked HOT, is on the right side of the valve.

Some would blame mischievous water gremlins. But not us. We would theorize that mineral deposits have built up around the spool and sleeve (the part of the Scald-Guard pressure balance valve that blends the hot and cold water). And a buildup like that could interfere with the valve’s proper operation. To solve this problem, follow the steps below (based on your model).

NOTE: Unless both the hot and cold water supplies are turned on, the pressure balance valve will allow only a dribble of water to flow through the valve.

You mean, besides a godsend? A Scald-Guard valve is a Peerless® shower valve feature that keeps you and your family safe from dangerous water temperature fluctuations in your shower and bath. These fluctuations may occur when a toilet is flushed, or when an appliance (a dishwasher, say) is turned on at the same time the shower is being used. When set correctly, the Scald-Guard valve will maintain your water temperatures within a pleasing ±3° F range (when the inlet water temperature is set correctly).

The adjustable rotational limit stop found on Peerless® valves allows you to set a maximum hot water temperature for water flowing out of the tub/shower. When set correctly, this safety feature will ensure that the handle in your tub/shower faucet never rotates beyond the set level—resulting in a safe bathing temperature.

It may need to be readjusted if the inlet water temperatures change. For example, during the winter, the cold water temperature is colder than it is during the summer, which could result in varying outlet temperatures. Typical temperatures for a comfortable bath or shower range from 90° F to 110° F.

First, let’s review what the rotational limit stop does. This stop allows you to set a maximum temperature on the hot water flowing out of the tub/shower. When set correctly, this safety feature will ensure that the handle on your tub/shower faucet never goes beyond the set level, resulting in a safe bathing temperature.

The stop may need to be readjusted if the inlet water temperatures change. For example, during the winter, the cold water temperature is colder than it is during the summer. This could result in varying outlet temperatures. Typical temperatures for a comfortable bath or shower range from 90° F to 110° F.

Is this a problem everywhere else in your house, too? If not, then you may have a Peerless® pressure balance valve. This valve contains an adjustable Rotational Limit Stop: a small plastic device designed to reduce the risk of scalding. You may adjust the temperature yourself. Just follow these instructions on adjusting the Rotational Limit Stop.Let the water run until both hot and cold water is fully mixed.

If the water temperature is above what your local plumbing code allows (110° F or 120° F), remove the handle or take off the temperature knob and rotate the rotational limit stop as follows:

Turn the limit stop counterclockwise For every tooth the rotational limit stop is rotated counterclockwise, the maximum water temperature will decrease approximately 6° F. NOTE: If your water temperature is too cool, rotate the limit stop clockwise.

MAKE SURE COLD WATER FLOWS FROM THE VALVE FIRST. ALSO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR WATER (AT ITS HOTTEST FLOW) DOES NOT EXCEED THE TEMPERATURE ALLOWED (see steps 1-4 above).

According to industry standards, the maximum allowable temperature of water exiting the valve should not exceed 120 degrees Fahrenheit. (Temperature may vary in your area.)

After adjusting water temperature, place a thermometer in a plastic tumbler and hold the tumbler in the water stream to test the temperature. Do not test with hands or any body part.

If your water supply or temperature is unacceptable throughout your house, you probably need to adjust the temperature on your water heater. We recommend you follow the instructions of your water heater manufacturer. Typically, water heaters should be set in the "moderate" range, especially if you have small children.

Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

In these hot water temperature control articles, we explain how to buy, install, adjust and inspect anti-scald equipment to prevent hot water burns. We explain what a mixing valve, tempering valve, or anti-scald valve is, where and why these valves are installed on hot water systems, and how they work.

Photo: a Sparco anti-scald valve or tempering valve installed at a hydronic heating boiler. Other texts refer to these safety controls as mixing valves or compensating valves or temperature compensating valves.

Anti-scald valves used with water heaters are also called tempering valves or mixing valves. An anti-scald valve mixes cold water in with the outgoing hot water (or regulates pressure, or uses another approach) to assure that hot water exiting a building fixture is at a temperature low enough to be safe.

In the sketch shown below, courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates (found at page bottom, Click to Show or Hide), an anti-scald valve (also referred to as a tempering valve , a compensating valve or an automatic mixing valve) is shown installed at the hot water piping and tankless coil on a heating boiler.

The drawing illustrates that hot water leaving the tankless coil has been heated to 180 °F. by the coil which is itself immersed in hot boiler water. The 180 degree F. water leaving the tankless coil is mixed with 55 °F. water inside the tempering valve. This produces outgoing hot water from the valve cooled down to 140 deg F.

In the U.S., most authorities consider hot water at or below 120 deg F to be safe from scalding. Some facilities limit water temperatures to 100 deg. F.

Anti-scald valves typically are warranted for just 12 months from the date of installation. Plumbers report a typical tempering valve life of five years. (Moley 2022)

Some plumbing faucets and valves, such as models using a ceramic cartridge, may last the lifetime of the building even if the faucet"s finish and trim do not last that long.

An anti-scald or mixing valve mixes cold water with the outgoing hot water either automatically or manually to make sure that a person using the plumbing fixture won"t be scalded.

and mixing valve manufacturers described here, all take care to refer to products like the Sparco control shown above and the Watts mixing valve shown on this page as a mixing valve or tempering valve. They are not promising that the device will prevent burns from scalding hot water.

That advice means that besides mixing valves or tempering valves that are typically installed at the water heater or tankless coil, separate anti-scald protection devices are available for and should be installed at the point of use: sink, shower, or tub etc. Those sorts of anti-scald devices are also discussed in this article.

Above, in our photograph of a more traditional single-function heating boiler limit control, the limit switch is being used on a tankless coil, serving as an upper limit on the temperature to which the boiler is to heat its water. This temperature may and usually is well above 120°F and so is a scalding burn hazard.

Really? In my experience with plumbing and heating installers, home inspectors, and consumers, these terms: automatic compensation valve, mixing valve, tempering valve, anti-scald device, automatic pressure regulating valve, pressure balancing valve, pressure compensating valve are thrown about in a blizzard of usages that treat the words as synonyms.

In the course of inspecting several thousand buildings between 1976 and 2014, I have almost never found anti-scald devices at individual plumbing fixtures in private homes. The only water temperature control we typically find are mixing valves at the hot water source. Worse, sometimes there is no hot water scald protection at all.

When a heating boiler uses a tankless coil to produce domestic hot water, a third single-function control may be installed for that purpose. In our photo, a Honeywell limit control switch is being used to monitor hot water temperature at the tankless coil which is in turn mounted on a steam boiler of an older home in Portland, Maine.

Cold water from the building is entering the tankless coil via the bottom pipe (green corrosion) and hot water, heated by the coil is leaving at the upper part of the tankless coil, where it turns downwards to enter the left side of the mixing valve.

Additional cold water is permitted to enter the bottom of the mixing valve, and tempered (non-scalding) hot water then leaves at the right side of the mixing valve in that photo,

Avoid scalding burns on someone using the plumbing appliance - generally by trying to prevent water temperature at the device from exceeding a safe limit either set by the manufacturer or adjusted by the installer or user.

Note that once a temperature limit or stop has been set, water temperature might still vary both above or below that setting, depending on the type of limiting device and on the causes of variation of water temperature entering the building or of hot water produced by and exiting the water heater itself.

Avoid or minimize variations in water temperature - generally by monitoring water pressure, flow-rate, or temperature to avoid surges of hot or cold water.

POS: Point of source: these controls are installed at the water heater or at the heating boiler that uses a tankless coil, as a tempering or mixing valve using any of several methods to control outgoing water temperature to the entire building, detailed below.

POU: Point of use: these hot water temperature controls are installed at or close to the point of use or individual plumbing fixture as we detail below.

THERMOSTATIC HOT WATER TEMPERATURE CONTROL at POINT OF USE -or POS - point of source for some devices including TAFR - Temperature Actuated Flow Reduction devices as well as others.

Watch out: as you"ll read here and in the article topics we have listed, various water temperature control devices have different purposes, and not all of them are designed to prevent scalding burns.

Watch out:Where no anti-scald valve is installed, the risk of a person being badly burned by hot water can be significant in buildings for a variety of reasons that we will explain here, including:

Use of water use efficiency improvement devices such as low-flow shower heads. When a low-flow-rate shower head is retrofitted to a home where no anti-scald valve or automatic compensation valve has been installed, even if the shower controls or tub controls have been manually adjusted to provide safe comfortable water temperature, the unexpected use of other appliances or plumbing fixtures in the building can cause the water temperature at the shower or tub to suddenly become scalding.

Watch out: it can be confusing listening to plumbers, home inspectors, and building supply sales staff who toss around terms like "mixing valve", "tempering valve", and "pressure-balancing valve" a bit loosely, all referring to ways to avoid scalding burns at plumbing fixtures, but not all working the same way.

Watch out: every anti-scald device, mixing valve, temperature control device whose instructions we reviewed includes a collection of safety warnings that explain the limitations of the device and its vulnerability to improper installation, improper adjustment, or to external causes of water temperature variation that are outside the scope of the control.

Watch out: read the installation instructions from the manufacturer of the product you are installing, both to make sure it"s installed properly and thus will work as expected, and also so that you understand what to expect by way of hot water temperature control that the product handles.

WARNING: Thermostatic mixing valves are intended to increase the supply of hot water available from the coil. They are not intended to prevent a scald hazard.

Similarly, the Watts Regulator Company"s instructions for the installation of the Series LF1170 & LFL 1170 Hot Water Temperature Control Valves includes this warning: [Bold font is our emphasis]

The first document below lists the components and parts of the mixing valve you describe - or a model close to it. The second provides instructions for a newer Thermostatic Mixing Valve or TMV from Danfoss, the Series 30 HR/HV.

Products listed here include thermostatic mixing valves of several types including valves that are installed at the fixture or point of use (POU thermostatic mixing valves), valves that are installed at the water heating source, and other products.

Watch out: as you will read in the individual product specifications, some thermostatic mixing valve instructions take care to mention that the valve does NOT provide scald protection and should not be used where ASSE 1070 devices are required.

Apollo DUAL PURPOSE THERMOSTATIC MIXING VALVE IO MANUAL [PDF] Model MVB & MVBLF ASSE 1017 Point-of-source & ASSE 1017 Point-of-use, Conbraco Industries Inc., 1418 Pearl St., Pageland SC 29728 USA Tel: 704-841-6000

Apollo THERMOSTATIC MIXING VALVE 34ALF Series SPECIFICATIONS [PDF] Apollo, Op. Cit., this valve is a POS or Point of Source use only temperature control valve.

The Apollo “MVB” Series are designed to mix and regulate the amount of cold and hot water to produce a comfortable and safe outlet temperature at a predetermined setting, either from the “point of source” or “point of use” application for single or multiple fixtures.

ASSE 1017 model 5231 series high flow thermostatic mixing valves are designed to be installed at the hot water heater (point of distribution) and cannot be used for tempering water temperature at fixtures as a point-of- use valve.

Series 5231 thermostatic mixing valves can also be used for regulating the flow temperature in radiant panel heating systems, to which it assures a constant and accurate control with ease of installation.

Cash Acme HEATGUARD 110-D SERIES TEMPERATURE-ACTUATED MIXING VALVE [PDF] (2014) assists in scald prevention, Cash Acme Corp., 2400 7th Avenue S.W. · Cullman · Alabama 35055 · USA · www.cashacme.com

Danfoss ESBE Series 20 THERMOSTATIC MIXING VALVE TMV INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] retrieved 2017/04/03, original source: http://na.heating.danfoss.com/PCMPDF/ESBE_Series20_TMV_instructions.pdf

Danfoss THERMOSTATIC MIXING VALVE Series 30 HR/HV INSTALLATION & MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] retrieved 2017/04/03, original source: http://na.heating.danfoss.com/PCMPDF/ESBE_HRHV_TMV_instructions.pdf

Photo: a replacement Delta Scald Guard cartridge. This is a rotational stop device. Detailed instructions on how to adjust this Delta scald guard device are given just below as a PDF download from the company.

ASSE compliance: ASSE 1017 - requires installation of a check valve. An expansion tank must be installed with the check valve to accomodate thermal expansion.

The AMX300 Series DirectConnect™ Mixing Valves fit any application requiring accurate control of water temperature by mixing hot and cold water such as domestic water.

KOHLER THERMOSTATIC MIXING VALVE INSTALLATION & CARE GUIDE [PDF] (2015) describing a POU point-of-use hot water temperature control from Kohler, Models K-2972, K2975, K2973, K2976.This valve meets or exceeds ASME A112.18.1/CSA B125.1 and ASSE

TUB AND SHOWER VALVES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] (2002) Moen, retrieved 2022/06/12, original source: https://assets.moen.com/shared/docs/instruction-sheets/mt692c.pdf

Moen, ONE HANDLE TUB/SHOWER VALVE TRIM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS (2014) Moen, retrieved 2022/06/12, original source: https://assets.moen.com/shared/docs/instruction-sheets/ins2153c.pdf

Moley, Hot Water Tempering Valve, Maintaining & Servicing, [Website] Moley Plumbing & Gasfitting, retrieved 2022/06/12, original source: https://www.moyleplumbing.com.au/blog/hot-water-tempering-valve-maintenance-service#:~:text=A tempering valve should last approximately five (5) years.

Resideo (Honeywell) Braukmann PROPORTIONAL THERMOSTATIC MIXING VALVE [PDF] (2020) AM-1 1070 Series Proportional Thermostatic Mixing Valve, Resideo Technologies, Inc., 1985 Douglas Drive North, Golden Valley, MN 55422 1-800-468-1502

Symmons TEMPCONTROL 700-Series MIXING VALVE INSTALLATION MANUAL [PDF] [Shown above] Symmons Industries, Inc., 31 Brooks Drive, Braintree, MA 02184 USA, Tel: (800) 796-6667 Web: symmons.com Email: gethelp@symmons.com

left. Install retaining nut back onto valve body.[Note the requirement t torque the retaining nut to 132 inch pounds. - Ed.]5) Refer to "Setting Valve Temperature" section (pg.4)

Tempress PRESSURE BALANCING VALVE I-595 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] (2020) for use with Tub and Shower Fittings, Newport Brass, 2001 Carnegie Ave, Santa Ana CA 92705 USA Tel: (949) 417-5207

Watts, SERIES LF1170 AND LFL1170 HOT WATER TEMPERATURE CONTROL VALVE INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] (2013) Watts Regulator Co., USA Tel: (978) 688-1811, Fax: (978) 794-1848,

I can but guess because there is other information about your plumbing system that I don"t know, but it"s possible that you are anti scald device is installed at the water heater and that there is too much distance between that point and the nearest hot water Plumbing fixture.

A solution would be to install the anti scald device right at your plumbing fixtures. It"s more expensive in the landlord may not want to do that. OR the mixing valve output temperature is simply set lower than necessary. Temperature can be set as high as 120F. but no higher at the fixture or there"d be a scalding burn hazard.

A mixing or equalizer valve was just installed on my hit water tank by the landlord. I am finding that the water isn"t hot enough for us. We were told the temperature would be set for 110°F and would not be allowed to be higher.

We also pay for our own hot water usage through the gas company and it isn"t being paid for by the landlord. We are not using any cold water for showers or for anything other than drinking at this point. I would like to know if there is a way to increase the amount of hot water.

There is no risk of scalding in this house as we are adults who know how to live responsibly while using the water without harm to ourselves and others within the home.

If we are talking about a domestic water heater that produces hot water for washing and bathing, there will be a thermostat (or two of them) on the water heater; the thermostat controls vary depending on whether the heater is fueled by oil or gas or electricity.

Continue reading at ANTI-SCALD WATER TEMPERATURE CONTROL TYPES or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

ANTI SCALD VALVES / MIXING VALVES at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Thanks to Bruce Jones, Renewable Energy Solutions Manager, for suggesting clarifications about which way to turn the mixing valve to make water supply hotter or colder. email August 2010.

Thanks to reader Chris Martino for pointing out inconsistent text about which way to turn the hot water mixing valve or tempering valve. December 2010.

[5] "Water Saving Tips: For Residential Water Use, Indoors and Out",Alliance for Water Efficiency, 300 W Adams Street, Suite 601 Chicago, Illinois 60606, Tel: 773-360-5100, 866-730-A4WE, Email: jeffrey@a4we.org, web search 12/14/11, original source: plumbingefficiencyresearchcoalition.org/

[6] "Danger in the Shower: 2008 Forum Looks at Hot Water", John Koeller, Home Energy, Jan/Feb 2009, Home Energy Magazine, 1250 Addison Street Suite 211B, Berkeley, Ca. 94702, Tel: (510) 524-5405 Email: contact@homeenergy.org

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

Few things are more frustrating than looking forward to awarm, relaxing showerafter a long day, and instead having to endure an oscillating stream of scalding and glacial water because something to do with the temperature is all messed up. But before you go tearing yourshower headout of the wall and calling up a plumber, there are a few things you can do to hopefully get your water temperature back to normal. Here they are, per Paul Abrams, ofRoto-Rooter, andBailey Carson, of Handy, an online marketplace for cleaning, installation and other home services.

Wait a WhileThe most obvious cause of fluctuating water temperatures, according to Abrams, is simply “running low on hot water from the water heater.” He says, “This happens if you’re last in line for a shower at your house, or if you have an undersized water heater. One thing I learned at my in-laws’ house is that my father-in-law likes to stick it to The Man and remove the water flow restrictor in the shower head, which means water is pushing through much faster than it’s supposed to, and it quickly depletes the supply of hot water in the tank. When hot water starts running out, we users tend to turn the handle to a hotter setting in desperation, and we get very hot or very cold water and decreased bandwidth in the warm range.” So, if someone showered before you, wait a little while so the water heater can fill back up.

Adjust Your Mixing Valve/Scald Guard“In most instances, your scald guard — a plastic disk with notches — simply needs to be adjusted,” says Carson. “To adjust the water valves and scald guard, the single handle can be easily removed by loosening the screws with a wrench and lifting from the faucet. You’ll want to adjust the dial of the temperature controls accordingly to balance out the hot and cold water valves.” You can see exactly how this is done, with two different kinds of knobs, in the videos below.

Abrams warns, however, that you should take it slow when adjusting your scald guard, or else you could end up making the water temperature dangerously hot. “It’s important to note that faucets are set at the factory to a safe setting to prevent scalding, which is especially important to remember if you have babies, children and elderly people in the house,” he says. “This adjustment is the last safety device to prevent you from scalding yourself, and it was no doubt put in place after some expensive lawsuits were filed against faucet manufacturers. If you adjust this device, do so in one or two tiny increments at a time, then test the water temperature with your hand. Being a tough guy and pushing the setting all the way to the hot setting is a recipe for disaster, especially if your water heater is already set too hot — water heaters should be set to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, but many people crank them up much higher.”

Replace the Faucet Cartridge AltogetherIf, when you go to tweak the scald guard, you notice that the whole thing is looking worn down, you should probably go ahead and replace the whole cartridge. “With usage and time, these cartridges will fail,” Abrams says. “If your shower has no warm range, but goes from very hot to very cold, it’s probably time to replace that faucet cartridge. Many manufacturers guarantee their cartridges for life, and they’ll ship you a new cartridge for free. However, switching out the cartridge isn’t something every person is willing to try. Often, it’s a simple job, but if the cartridge is crusted over with hard water deposits, or it’s been in there for years, getting it out with a pliers can prove to be very difficult.”

So, if changing the cartridge yourself is too much trouble, as Carson says, “Let a professional handyman handle it for you.” Which will be especially necessary if you did end up tearing your shower head out of the wall, after all.

Have you ever been taking a shower when the water from the showerhead suddenly becomes scaldingly hot or icy cold? That sudden temperature change is due to a drop in either the hot or cold side water pressure. This can happen when someone else in the house turns on the water at a fixture, when the washing machine fills, when a toilet flushes, or even when the dishwasher begins a cycle that uses water. Sometimes the situation is just startling and annoying, but a sudden blast of hot water can also create scalding burns.

A pressure-balance shower valve or thermostatic shower valve can remedy this issue, and they are now required by building codes in some areas (particularly in high-rise buildings) for new construction or during remodeling.

Pressure-Balance Shower Valve: This option operates by sensing the volume ratio of hot water to cold water and adjusting them to continually deliver water at your chosen temperature. As you turn on the water with a single handle, you are controlling both the volume and the temperature at the same time. As you twist the control, the volume of the water increases at the same time you are increasing the temperature.

Thermostatic Shower Valve: This option operates by sensing the actual temperature of the incoming water and adjusting hot and cold flow to maintain a steady temperature. With these shower valves, you generally set the water temperature and water volume with individual controls: These valves have two controls, one for temperature and one for volume. The water temperature remains the same, no matter if the water is trickling or running full blast. This type controls the temperature to within one degree of whatever setting you establish with the temperature control. The chosen temperature will remain at the same setting after you turn the water off, so the next shower will automatically be set exactly where you left it. Thermostatic shower valves are regarded as far superior to pressure-balance valves, but they are also much more expensive.

A pressure-balance shower valve works by maintaining a balanced flow of water between the hot and cold sides. They do not actually sense the temperature of the water. The valve has either a balancing spool or a diaphragm inside the valve body that reacts to drops in the pressure of one incoming water supply (either hot or cold) and adjusts the outflow of the opposite water supply to match. This ensures that the water doesn’t get suddenly colder or hotter as it emerges from the spout of the showerhead. Sudden changes in supply water pressure may reduce the outflow of water from the showerhead, but it will not change the temperature.

Thermostatic shower valves use a more sophisticated mechanism that actually senses the temperature of the water rather than merely reacting to the volume of flow between hot and cold inputs. A wax element inside the shower valve expands or contracts in reaction to heat, changing the amount of water allowed in from each inlet. While this might sound virtually the same as the less expensive pressure-balance valve, there are key advantages:

You can set the water heater at a high-temperature setting, yet the shower valve itself can be limited so that the water temperature never reaches a scalding level. This allows washing machines, dishwashers, etc., to use much hotter water than you want in a shower or bathtub.

Pressure-balance shower valves are usually one-handle designs that can fit into the same wall or surround openings where an old standard single-handle faucet fits, but the conversion to a pressure-balance valve sometimes does require some changes to the hot and cold water supply piping and the shower standpipe in the wall to allow the new valve to fit. If you aren"t comfortable enough with your plumbing skills, consider hiring a plumber.

Thermostatic shower valves come in many styles, but typically the separate volume and temperature controls are part of a single-valve body that is covered by a large escutcheon plate. This usually requires some modification to the wall or surrounding opening to fit the new, larger valve mechanism. Some types, however, use a streamlined profile in which the temperature control is mounted directly on the volume control handle. Alterations to the water supply piping are again sometimes necessary. Many people choose to have a professional plumber install this kind of valve, considering that the cost of the valve itself can easily run $200 or more, making installation mistakes costly.

Like older standard shower valves, pressure-balance shower valves have inner cartridges that wear out and eventually go bad. When it does, the cartridge may not mix the water evenly and you might get mostly hot or mostly cold water. Or, you may also get barely any water at all. These are all signs that you need to change out the cartridge. Once a new cartridge is installed in a pressure-balance shower valve, it should work like new. You can extend the life of the shower valve by turning it on regularly, even if that bathroom does not get any use. A valve that sits without use for too long is more likely to go bad than one that is used regularly.

Thermostatic shower valves also have cartridges that wear out and need replacement, but they are also susceptible to problems originating with dirt or debris in the check valves that control the flow of water from the hot and cold inlets. If your thermostatic shower valve suddenly stops controlling the water temperature or water volume correctly, the first step is to inspect and clear the check valves, following the manufacturer"s directions. If this doesn"t solve the problem, then replace the cartridge.

When installing a new pressure-balanced or thermostatic shower valve, save the paperwork because it will make it easier to identify which replacement cartridge you need when the time comes to change it. Sometimes a quick call to the manufacturer can result in a free new cartridge, so keep the phone number handy.

However, that satisfaction can go away quickly when you crank the shower faucet all the way over, and you can’t quite get the water temperature as high as you would like it. This article will discuss how to increase your shower’s water temperature by adjusting the Delta shower valve. Although this article specifically focuses on the Delta a similar process can be followed on Moen, Koehler, or American Standard brands.

You can increase the water temperature for your shower valve by removing the handle with an Allen wrench and then using a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the limiter lock. Then pull the plastic limiter off and rotate it slightly clockwise to increase the hottest water setting. Be cautious and test the water before and after to prevent potential scalding temperatures!

Throughout this article, we will discuss the different aspects of the temperature controls that shower valves provide and the variations you may run into while modifying your own. If you are a visual learner, check out my YouTube channel for video instructions for the whole process.

Shower faucet valves are mixing valves with pipe fittings that sit behind the wall of your shower. Every shower faucet valve works on the same principle of combining hot and cold water to create a consistently warm shower experience without temperature fluctuations.  These valves are also called “mixing valves” since they are responsible for mixing the cold and hot water lines into the desired water temperature as set by the handle.

Regardless of what style of trim your shower has, the valve should function universally with two input pipes, one for hot water and one for cold. There should be two output pipes, one for the showerhead and one for the bathtub spout.

As a prominent manufacturer, Delta is one of the best at maintaining the same design for multiple years and identified by a valve “series.” It is vital to remember that your shower faucet’s visual parts are referred to as the trim kit. While those may differ depending on the style you get, the inner workings are often similar depending on the age of your Delta valve.  If you talk to a licensed plumber they would call this universal mixing valve the “rough-in valve.”

One subscriber, Gheorghe, asked me what size Allen wrench I used to remove the shower handle. This is an excellent question because this is where sizes may differ slightly. I used a 7/64″ Allen wrench, but a 2.5 mm would also do the trick. While the Delta shower valves are universal and always use the same sizing for the actual device, the trim kits may require slightly different sizes.

Many showers don’t get as hot as people would like because the limiter is set to a lower temperature by default. This is to prevent the possibility of people (especially children) from injuring themselves with scalding water. This functionality is perfect for keeping people safe.

Delta manufactures their valves with an easily accessible limiter for the exact purpose of making these sorts of changes. This is so that you can enjoy a shower at the temperature you want while keeping things safe for every person in your house. Part of why I created my YouTube channel and website is to inform people about these types of repairs that can be quickly done at home with a bit of know-how.

Modifying the limiter to get a higher water temperature is not a complicated process to follow. Just keep these instructions close at hand, and you’ll have nice hot showers in no time.

The best way to ensure that you get your shower to the appropriate temperature is to test the water with a thermometer. In my video, I measured it beforehand, and it came to around 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Knowing what temperature you start with will help you find the perfect setting.

Remove the actual handle from your shower faucet. This step is where you may experience some deviation from this guide depending on the kind of trim kit you have in addition to the Delta valve series. If your trim kit has a handle like mine, there should be an Allen wrench screw on the faucet’s underside. If your shower handle uses a transparent knob like the kind found in older trim kits, you may need to use a flat head screwdriver for popping off the front screw cover.

Once you’ve removed the handle through either method, you should then see a screw head protruding from the valve itself, with a white plastic component just behind it. Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the silver adapter and lay it to the side.

At this point, you should see the small plastic circular plate that limits the movement of the valve and prevents it from getting too hot. Remove the limiter, and you should see the threads or splines, as one subscriber pointed out.

Rotate the limiter clockwise and place it back in its spot. The splines should line up with the grooves on the valve, and it should move into place without much struggle. Note that it will not rotate too far as the valve has an absolute hard limit that you can’t go beyond due to safety concerns.

Before replacing the handle, you should take this opportunity to measure the temperature of your water again. In my video, I aimed to reach 120 degrees Fahrenheit, a correct spot to aim for but use your own discretion.

Lastly, replace the shower valve handle using the Allan wrench, or if it has a cover, pop it back into place, and you’re done! Remember to advise anyone who might be using the shower that it may be hotter than before and to be careful when setting the temperature to avoid scalding themselves.

You may encounter a couple of challenges while you are adjusting your Delta shower valve water temperature. We have compiled answers for some of the common issues you might encounter with our subscribers’ help. If you find yourself with any questions of your own, please leave a comment on the video, and I will do my best to help!

A couple of subscribers mentioned that they were unable to remove the handle from their faucet. This issue can be due to a couple of different reasons: a buildup of mineral deposits that usually show up as a greenish material on the inside of the handle due to hard water or stripped threads inside the socket.

If you have excessively hard water in your area, the best way to work around this issue is by soaking the part of the handle where it connects to the shower (including the internal components) in vinegar. This will break down the mineral deposits. After letting it soak for a while, you should be able to remove the handle easily and continue with your temperature adjustment.

If your valve or handle has stripped threads preventing you from loosening it, you may need to replace either your trim kit or the valve itself. Depending on which components you need to replace, this can cost anywhere from $100-$500, depending on where you live and the costs of hiring a plumber.

Another subscriber, Faith, encountered an issue where their shower handle is missing the grey attachment piece that needs to be removed before accessing the limiter. This piece is an adapter that functions as a mounting piece for your shower’s handle to attach to the valve stem. If this component is missing, it can contribute to a lukewarm water problem and should be easily replaceable by going to your local hardware store.

It is also important to recognise that you can follow the steps to remove the handle and adjust your shower temperature without turning off your water supply. However, if you need to replace any part of the valve itself, you will need to shut off your water for the duration of that replacement. If you are not an experienced plumber, it is strongly recommended that you hire one to replace a broken valve. It can be a costly procedure to do incorrectly.

As you can see, adjusting the limiter on your Delta shower valve is an easy process once you understand what to look for. Nobody should have to deal with lukewarm showers when it’s this easy to make the adjustment. If you find yourself unhappy with the temperature of your shower, get a jump on it and save yourself from that kind of disappointment. Remember to check out my YouTube channel for more tips and tricks for everyday home repairs and updates!