hot water tank safety valve leaking in stock

Temperature pressure relief valves play a vital role in protecting the safety of your water heater and your home. So when the relief valve starts leaking, Bay Area homeowners can be quite concerned. Today we’re going to answer the question, “Why is my water heater’s relief valve leaking?” and explain what you should do if it happens in your home!

When water is heated up inside of a water heater, thermal expansion causes the pressure inside of the tank to build up. If that pressure gets too high, your water heater runs the risk of exploding!

The temperature pressure relief valve is a safety mechanism that’s used to avoid this problem. If the temperature‘s  or pressure in your tank exceeds a certain level (often times 210 degrees and 150 psi), the relief valve opens up and allows some water to drain out of the tank. Cold water is then added to the tank in order to lower the temperature and pressure inside.

Your water heater’s relief valve can start leaking for one of two reasons: either the valve was triggered to open because of excessive temperature or pressure, or the valve itself is faulty. In the first case, the valve will drain water out of the discharge pipe as explained above. This may seem like a “leak,” but it’s really just the relief valve doing its job.

If the problem is a faulty valve, then you might have an actual leak. The valve might not seal properly, for instance, or the valve can get stuck and remain open (allowing water to continuously drain out).

No matter what caused your relief valve to start leaking, you should contact a professional plumber like Cabrillo as soon as possible. If the valve is frequently being triggered, we can determine why the temperature or pressure is getting too high in your water heater and fix the problem. If the valve has a leak, we can replace it with a new relief valve (a very common water heater repair).

If you have any questions about why your water heater’s relief valve is leaking, or if you’d like a plumbing system serviced or installed in your home, contact Cabrillo, your Bay Area plumbing, heating and air conditioning contractor.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

If an expansion tank is already installed and there is still a problem with excessive pressure, you have a problem with the expansion tank. I’ll talk about expansion tanks in next week’s blog post.

After writing a blog post about leaking temperature and pressure relief (TPR) valves at water heaters, I learned that this particular issue seems to completely befuddle folks.  In the two years that I allowed comments to be posted, that post received 245 comments, including my own.  The majority of the comments were questions from readers who were trying to troubleshoot their own leaking TPR valves.

The good news is that while answering reader questions, I ended up doing a fair amount of research to help myself understand problems that people were having, and to make sure that the advice I was giving was correct.  The purpose of this blog post is to give some troubleshooting advice to people with leaking TPR valves.

All water heaters are equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve.  This valve will allow water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high; these valves are set to open when the pressure reaches 150 psi, or when the temperature reaches 210 degrees fahrenheit.  This prevents water heaters from exploding or turning into missiles.

The rest of this blog post is going to be about troubleshooting a leaking TPR valve.  If a TPR valve leaks, either it’s defective or it’s not.  If it’s not defective, it’s leaking because the temperature was too high or the pressure was too high.  In other words, a leaking TPR valve indicates one of these things: a defective valve, excessive pressure, or excessive temperature.

As I mentioned earlier, the TPR valve on a water heater is set to go off at 150 psi, or 210 degrees Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve  for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start.  These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

As I mentioned in my original post about leaking TPR valves, an easy troubleshooting step is to replace the leaking valve.  TPR valves cost less than $15 and they’re fairly easy to replace.  If you’re not sure how to go about doing this, hire a plumber.  If you’re trying to do this on the cheap because you can’t afford a plumber, search YouTube for videos of “relief valve replacement”.  You’ll find a ton of ’em there.

If a new, proper TPR valve leaks, it’s probably just doing its job.  It’s relieving excessive temperature or pressure.  The next step is to find out which one it is.

This one is pretty simple.  Run some hot water at a plumbing fixture and take a temperature reading with a meat thermometer.  Make sure there are no tempering valves installed between the water heater and the faucet; whole-house tempering valves are typically installed at the water heater, and look like the type shown in the photo below, which I used in my blog post about safe water temperatures.  If one of these valves is installed, the temperature you’ll get at the faucet will be less than the temperature inside the tank, by design.

New single handle bath tub faucets installed in Minnesota since 2013 also require tempering valves (http://www.structuretech1.com/2013/04/new-safety-requirements-for-bath-tub-faucets-in-minnesota/).  Those valves are typically installed below the bath tub, but can sometimes be found near the water heater.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet (sillcock), and open up the faucet.  You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 psi range, with no other water running.  If the pressure is over 80 psi, it should be corrected.  The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed.  Get a plumber to do that.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you play the waiting game.  Once the temperature and pressure relief valve at the water heater leaks, go check the pressure gauge.  If the ‘surge indicator’ shows something at or near 150 psi, the problem is excessive pressure.  Excessive pressure is typically the result of a closed system; the water heats up and expands, but it doesn’t have anywhere to go, so the relief valve does it’s job and relieves the pressure.  The solution, as I mentioned in my original blog post (http://www.structuretech1.com/2012/01/leaking-relief-valve/), is to install an expansion tank.  If an expansion tank is already installed and there is still a problem with excessive pressure, either the expansion tank is not installed properly or it’s not charged properly.

A leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve is a major concern, especially if it’s the first time dealing with this problem. While some people tend to panic and get help immediately, others may just shrug their shoulders and assume that the leak is a common occurrence. However, there are many causes of leaks in water pressure relief valves. And all these must be addressed immediately given the high risks of property damage and hazards that can occur if the issue is ignored.

The pressure relief valve gives steam and water a chance to escape when either the pressure or temperature in the water tank gets too high. A malfunctioning valve can cause the water heater to explode and is the major cause of water heater explosions. In water heater pressure relief valves, the valve is set to open when the pressure exceeds 150 psi.

A leaking valve is not always a broken valve. In some cases, a water heater’s pressure relief valve may leak because it is functioning as intended. As excess pressure is relieved out of your water heater system, some water may leak. This necessitates the need to test the pressure in your water heater.

The process is not complicated. However, if you are not comfortable checking the water pressure, you can always contact your technician. To test the pressure, use a pressure gauge and attach it to either the cold-water pipe or the hot water pipe. However, one of the easiest places to connect the pressure gauge is the outdoor hose faucets. For this, ensure you purchase a pressure gauge that is designed for garden hoses.

Turn off all water outlets and faucets. The pressure reading should be between 40 psi- 80 psi. If the gauge shows a psi reading of 150 and above, then the cause of the leak could be high pressure. If the water pressure is normal and the leak is persistent, then high water pressure is not the cause of the leak.

If you get a high-pressure reading, then you could be dealing with a closed plumbing system issue. This means that when the water is heated, the pressure increases as it should. But with nowhere to go, the valves open to relieve the pressure. Luckily, this can be solved by installing an expansion tank that gives the pressure an outlet other than a pressure relief valve.

Although rare, your water heater’s pressure relief valve could be leaking as a result of excessively high temperatures. However, the water has to be near the boiling point. To check the water temperature, ensure you turn on the hot water faucet. Run the water for one minute and use a meat thermometer to take the temperature reading. The temperature should be around 120 degrees. If more than this, then you need to have the water heater checked. The water temperature would need to be close to 212 degrees to set off the relief valve.

While this is an uncommon occurrence, it is not far-fetched. Your technician could have used a pressure valve for another appliance since they have the same function. However, these other pressure relief valves are set to go off at a lower psi. For instance, boiler pressure valves go off at 30 psi. If installed in a water heater, you are likely to get leaks immediately after installation. As such, if you have had your water heater for years and only experienced the leaks after a long period, then this is an unlikely cause of the leak.

A slight leak may occur if your water heater’s pressure relief valve has not been opened for a while, say a few years. While this leak is normal and may not be an indicator of a problem with the water heater system, you may need to replace the valve if the leak becomes more serious. It is cheaper to replace the entire valve than to repair it and have to deal with the same problem later on.

A leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve could also be caused by a faulty pressure relief valve. While pressure relief valves barely break down, excessive wear and improper installation can cause extensive damage. Unfortunately, a faulty pressure valve can not be repaired and must be replaced. However, the cost of pressure valves is affordable and ranges around $30.

Know your water heater and how it functions– Water heaters can be intimidating, especially for people with less technical know-how.  Understand what every part of the system plays in heating water such as the water shutoff valve, drain valve, thermostat, and pressure relief valve. This eases the maintenance routine and ensures you have a fair understanding of any malfunctions.

Insulate the pipes and the water heater– By insulating both the cold water and hot water pipes, you get to prevent condensation while also reducing heat loss. Also, insulating the water heater helps to keep water hot when surrounded by cold air.

Carry out regular maintenance– Inspect your water heater monthly, ensuring that all valves and pipes are in good shape. This also helps you catch corrosion and leaks early enough before they turn out to be bigger problems. And every year, carry out a water heater flush. Given that you cannot pinpoint all problems, have a qualified technician inspect the system annually.

Regardless of the possible cause of a leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve, please contact a qualified plumber as soon as possible. And if you think it’s a problem that you can solve without getting help, ensure you have a qualified plumber confirm that the system is performing optimally after. Water heater issues should not be taken lightly as they can cause more issues, even explosions.

If you’ve been having issues with your water heater recently, you might find that you’re paying high energy bills, not getting access to hot water when you want it, or your water pressure is low.

Fortunately, by understanding how relief valves work, you can solve whatever problem you’re having with the one on your water heater. In this article, we’ll review everything you should know about this valve.

A water heater pressure relief valve, also referred to as a T&P valve, pressure relief valve, or water heater temperature valve is a safety feature that you can find on any water heater. The reason it’s there is to keep you safe in case the water pressure is too high.

Without this safety feature, your water heater could end up breaking. You could potentially end up with burns if the high water pressure is dangerously high.

This valve also ensures that there aren’t any leaks in your water heater, which would lead to low water pressure when you want to use it to wash the dishes or take a shower.

The water heater pressure relief valve is in place so that it can relieve excess pressure and temperature in a water heater if either of these is too high. Because this everyday appliance is a closed system, thermal expansion occurs in water heaters.

Here’s how it works. Whether your water heater is heated by electric elements or a gas burner, both the metal tank and the water inside expand when the hot water temperature is somewhere between 120 and 140 degrees.

It’s totally normal for the water and water heater to expand to a certain extend. After all, this is what naturally happens when the temperature rises.

However, when the temperature is 210 degrees—or the pressure is 150 pounds per inch (psi)—this is far too much pressure and heat in the water heater. If it’s the case, you should change your hot water heater temperature.

If your water heater pressure relief valve is working, this is when it will open. This releases steam and hot water from the discharge tube, making your water heater operate safely again.

On the micro-level, the functioning of this valve works like this. The relief valve itself has been set up by a professional or pre-designed to open when the temperature or pressure reaches a dangerous level.

When functioning properly, it will open as it’s designed to when the levels of heat or pressure are high. The liquid comes out through this auxiliary route, relieving the heat and pressure within the water tank.

This specific state that the water heater is in is called the “blowdown.” Usually, the “blowdown” is defined by professionals (and is used in the design or set up of the valve) as a specific pressure percentage.

The “blowdown” is usually somewhere between 2 and 20%. Once the pressure has reached the “blowdown” amount, the pressure relief valve will close again so that you can use the water heater as intended.

If you’ve been noticing any issues with your water heater pressure relief valve, then you need to know where it is on your water heater. Usually, you can find it on the top or side of this appliance. It’s a valve that’s connected to a plastic or metal discharge tube that points up.

The water heater pressure is already installed when you receive your water heater (or buy a home that has one already). It’s actually welded onto the tank; you’ll see a threaded inlet where it is.

This is for safety reasons. Everything has been done according to standards that have been mandated by plumbing codes. So if you’re having any issues with the valve, you’ll have to call a professional to have it fixed.

This said, if you’re only having issues with the discharge tube, this is easy to replace. You won’t have to drain or power down your water heater, and you can deal with it yourself.

This said, considering that there might be other issues causing discharge tube problems—issues connected to high water pressure or temperature—it’s safest to have a professional deal with this too.

If you suspect there’s a problem with your water heater pressure relief valve, you can do a test. This is actually good idea if you don’t have any problems at all, as this type of maintenance will protect your water heater—and yourself.

To get started, identify where the relief valve shut off is. Usually, you can find it upon the cold water feed, which is on top of the water tank, on the right side where the inlet is.

Finally, release the level so that it quickly snaps into the original position. If it doesn’t snap quickly into this original position, then your water heater valve isn’t working and needs to be replaced.

When your water heater pressure relief valve isn’t functioning properly, it’s usually for one of to two reasons. It either sticks so that it doesn’t properly open or close, or it has a leak, which means that it’s continually dripping, lowering your water pressure.

If your valve is sticky, then it becomes stuck in a closed (downward) or open (extended position). If it’s closed, then the valve won’t be able to relieve the heat or pressure that builds up in the closed water heater system. There could be a rupture as a result.

Sometimes, you can easily fix this problem by opening and closing the valve lever a few times. However, if it continues to stick, then you’ll need to replace it.

Your water heater is leaking? Make sure that it doesn’t come from the valve before replacing it. If your pressure relief valve is leaking, then this maybe because it isn’t seated properly in the tank’s threaded opening. This is quite a common issue if you’ve recently replaced your old valve with a new one. To fix this issue with this cause, you have to take several steps.

If the lever snaps into its original position and it’s still leaking, you need to turn off the gas valve by turning it to the off position. Then, shut the water off so you can replace the valve safely.

If a water pressure issue is what is causing the water heater pressure relief valve to not work, then it might be dangerous for you to change the valve yourself. Generally speaking, it’s a good idea to hire a professional to protect yourself.

Now that we’ve reviewed everything you should know about a water heater pressure relief valve you might have realized that you need to replace your water heater valve. However, to be as safe as possible, you want to hire a professional.

It can be all too easy to forget about your water heater when everything appears to be working correctly. However, a stuck or faulty pressure relief valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to reach dangerous levels — with potentially explosive results. Therefore, testing your water heater pressure relief valve should be at the top of your home maintenance checklist.

You don"t need to be a professional plumber to check your water heater"s safety mechanisms. With the right knowledge, even novice DIY-ers can test their water heater pressure relief valves.

A water heater pressure relief valve is exactly what it says on the tin: a safety mechanism that prevents excessive pressure from building up in your water heater"s tank. Without it, there would be a risk of the tank bursting and flooding your house. A bursting water tank can also cause serious injury and damage to your home"s structure, so keeping the pressure relief valve in good working order is essential.

Pressure inside your water tank occurs when the water expands and produces steam as it heats. The hotter the water, the greater the potential for high pressure. Although some pressure is normal and can escape through the pipes supplying your fixtures, the pressure relief valve activates when the pressure exceeds safe levels. It releases some hot water and steam until the pressure level normalizes.

A water heater pressure relief valve is a short, flat lever attached to a pipe running through the water heater. Its location varies depending on what water heater model you have, but you can usually find it above the tank or high up on one of the sides.

Sometimes, a water heater"s pressure relief valve can get stuck due to a build-up of deposits. Corrosion can also damage the valve and stop it from working correctly. A stuck or broken valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to exceed the safe limit, so it"s crucial to test it regularly.

You can test your water heater pressure relief valve by opening it slightly with a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Don"t force the valve open if you feel resistance. You"ll know that your valve is working properly if you can see or hear water and gas escaping. If you can"t see water escaping, or you can"t turn the valve easily, it"s time to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve. You should also call a plumber if you see signs that the valve is leaking, such as water pooling on the floor under the tank.

Sometimes, a water heater pressure relief valve will start leaking after you test it, even if the test shows that it"s working correctly. You can often solve this problem by gently opening and closing the valve a few times to remove any deposits stopping it from shutting. Call a plumber to check and repair the leak if this doesn"t work.

You should test your water heater pressure relief valve once or twice each year. The more often you check the valve, the higher the chances of detecting a problem early and preventing a costly leak or burst tank.

One of the most effective ways to prevent problems with your water heater"s pressure relief valve is to ensure that the drain line is installed correctly. It should angle downwards and match the valve"s exhaust port size to allow water to drain properly and prevent corrosion. It"s also essential to use a drain line made from heat-resistant material, like copper. You should call a plumber to replace the drain line if you"re concerned that your installation is incorrect.

Insulating the drain line can stop it from freezing in cold weather. A frozen drain line will stop the pressure release valve from functioning correctly, even if it"s otherwise in good condition.

When you open a water heater pressure relief valve, the water that drips out will be very hot. Therefore, it"s essential to wear protective gloves and eyewear and avoid opening the valve all the way. You may also wish to consider wearing protective clothing to protect your skin against burns.

You will need to replace your water heater pressure relief valve if it"s stuck or damaged. A plumber can tell you whether it"s best to repair the valve or replace it altogether. Furthermore, it"s wise to replace the valve every five years or so, especially if it hasn"t been tested recently.

A leaky water heater is nothing to take lightly. Over time, the leaks could cause water damage to the flooring and any surrounding items in your utility area, and they’ll only get worse over time. If your water heater is leaking from the bottom, this almost always indicates a serious problem with your unit.

Wondering why your hot water tank is leaking, and if you should call a professional like G&C Plumbing and Heating to troubleshoot and repair your unit? Read on, and learn about the most common causes of hot water heaters leaking from the bottom.

The T&P (Temperature & Pressure) relief valve is a safety feature found on all commonly-sold hot water heaters. It releases excess pressure from the tank through a tube directed at the floor – if the pressure gets too high in the tank, water will typically be sprayed through this tube as the pressure is relieved.

If you check your discharge tube and it’s wet, the T&P valve is probably the culprit. It may be faulty, and activating even when the pressure inside the hot water tank is normal. You’ll need to call a plumber to replace the valve and ensure your tank stops leaking.

In rare cases, though, your T&P valve may be functioning properly – and there may be too much pressure in your hot water tank. Pressure may build if the hot water tank is heating water too high (exceeding 140-145° F), which could happen with a faulty temperature regulator. Your hot water heater may be at risk of bursting if it exceeds its rated PSI, so contact a plumber for help immediately.

Another common cause of water heaters leaking from the bottom is a drain valve that’s not completely closed or is faulty and is leaking. The drain valve is used to drain out the tank to perform maintenance or repairs on the water heater, and is also used to drain sediment that gathers at the bottom of the tank.

If your drain valve is leaking, it may not be damaged. It’s possible that it’s just not completely closed. You may have knocked the handle loose at some point, loosening the drain valve slightly and allowing some water to drip out. Check the knob or handle and ensure it’s completely tightened.

If the water stops dripping, congratulations! Your water heater is in good shape. But if the leak continues, the valve itself is faulty and will need to be replaced either by you (if you’re handy) or by a plumber. The leak will only get worse with time, so we recommend handling the issue as soon as you can.

The final – and most common – reason that your hot water heater may be leaking from the bottom is due to damage to the tank itself. If your hot water tank is leaking, that means it’s suffering from an internal, structural problem that is allowing water to leak out and pool at the base of the tank.

The most typical cause of a faulty tank and internal tank leak is a failure to remove sediment from the hot water tank. This is particularly common in areas with very hard water. You should flush your tank and remove sediment every six months.

If you don’t, the efficiency of your water heater will begin to suffer. And over time, the sediment can contribute to corrosion and cracking of the tank shell, leading to a leak that will allow water to pool around the base of the unit.

In the case of internal damage to the hot water heater, you’ll almost always need to replace the unit completely. If you think that your hot water tank is compromised but you’re not certain, it’s a good idea to hire a plumber to take a look at it – that way, if the issue isn’t with the heater tank, you can avoid the expense of purchasing a brand-new unit.

A leaky water heater is a big deal. If your water heater is leaking, it’s likely in need of urgent repairs. Read about if your water heater is leaking around the top.

Contact the pros at G&C Plumbing and Heating. We can examine your hot water heater, determine the root cause of the problem, and recommend the appropriate maintenance and repairs – or install a new water heater to replace your damaged unit. Contact us now to get the help you need.

Our Pressure Relief Valve was "dripping" when heater was on gas or electric didn"t matter which. I was set to replace the Pressure and Temperature Valve as the dripping water was corroding everything steel in the compartment. Had been doing it for some time before I noticed small amount of water dripping from cover outside. Got the Suburban manual out to find PN of relief valve. While reading the manual, I found this bit of info.

"You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater"s P & T valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping from the P & T valve does not always mean the P & T valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a RV is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P & T valve, the valve will relieve the excess pressure.

One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design. However, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. "

"Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping of the P & T valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion."

It took years to happen to see water dripping from outside water heater panel. In that time of weeping/dripping water had corroded everything under the P & T valve. Our gas burner parts are so rusted they are unsafe to use. Sure wish I"d have known this a couple years ago. As for a water accumulator tank, our last SOB had one, (and never had this problem) but don"t recall hearing of them in AB"s. If you haven"t removed your water heater outside cover lately, maybe you should.

This article describes the causes of leaks, drips, or discharges from pressure relief valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, or TP valves found on heating boilers, water heaters, or the simpler pressure relief valves found on water pressure tanks.

We list the wide variety of possible TP Valve leaks and how to find and fix each of those problems, including how to fix a leaky pressure relief valve or leaky TP valve on a boiler, water heater, or water tank - what are the possible causes of leaks at these safety devices. Safety Hazard Warnings About Dripping or Leaking Pressure Relief Valves.

How to use an expansion tank to relieve high water pressure. T&P Valves Installed on Gas Sidearm Heaters: special problems. Closed Hot Water System & Thermal Expansion Problems.

So if you see water actually spilling or even if it"s just dripping at the temperature/pressure relief valve on your heating boiler or water heater, the cause needs to be found and fixed promptly, and it may be appropriate to install a new T&P valve (also called TPR valve) after those repairs are complete.

Gas sidearm heater TP valves: The T&P valve is installed on a sidearm gas heater that is causing an overheat condition at the sensor point of the valve (This thermal expansion is discussed

Expansion tank defects or problems: if the expansion tank or compression tank on a hydronic heating system boiler or on other thermal expansion systems is itself defective (waterlogged, leaky, damaged internal bladder) system pressures will be excessive due to otherwise normal pressure & temperature variations during system operation, resulting in spillage at the relief valve.

Leaks into the heating boiler or water heater: leaks into a heating of water from a higher pressure building source can cause recurrent TP valve leaking. For example, if the tankless coil in a heating boiler is leaky, higher pressure water inside the tankless coil may leak out of the coil into the heating boiler.

Similarly, an internal leak in the heat exchanger coil of an indirect water heater can send water from the water heater"s potable water into the coil and thence into the heating boiler.

This same leak problem can cause high water pressure in a heating boiler that is used to heat water in an indirect-fired water heater. In that case, a coil containing boiler water (typically at 12-29 psi) that develops a leak may accept higher building pressure water from the building water supply to the indirect water eater tank (or cylinder) that is typically between 20 psi and 70 psi.

Diagnose this problem by observing that when the boiler is left OFF and its own water feeder is left OFF but building water supply is left ON into the tankless coil on the boiler or ON into the indirect water heater, boiler pressure will creep up several hours. With a reader we discuss this possible TP valve leak cause in the FAQs section of this article.

Watch out: under normal conditions, because building water supply pressures are above boiler pressures, an internal leak in the tankless coil or indirect water heater"s heat exchanger coil will cause boiler pressures to rise. But there can be exceptions in the direction of water leakage, as we explain

A deteriorated gasket inside the relief valve or corrosion on the valve seat can cause leaking at the valve; we find this mess occurring when someone lifts the "test lever" on a older P/T valve that has not been tested or operated for some time. A brittle piece of gasket can be spit out of the valve and it will then keep leaking.

The wrong T&P valve has been installed or set to too-low a working pressure. (Proper set pressure is at least 20-30 psi above the working pressure of the equipment to be protected).

Thermal expansion problems: A closed water system with thermal expansion and no means of relief can cause leaks at the pressure/temperature relief valve, such as

Can occur on a hot water heater (hot water cylinder, calorifier, hot water tank) with some building piping arrangements, particularly where a check valve or pressure reducing valve are used.

See THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS for an explanation of why thermal expansion leaks occur at the relief valve on hot water systems & what to do about it

Can occur also a hot water heating boiler (used for building heating) at which the boiler"s thermal expansion tank has become waterlogged or has a ruptured internal bladder.

Water expansion pressure (thermal expansion) increases in any closed plumbing system, particularly where a check valve installed close to the water heater.

Watts suggests installing a bypass model water pressure regulator that lets the excessive pressure head back to the street main or building water supply system - a solution that only works if the supply pressure is lower than the T&P relief valve spill pressure - which it usually is.

Water hammer: The building plumbing system suffers from water hammer. Water hammer in buildings causes surging in the water piping that in turn can cause leaks at pressure/temperature or other pressure relief valves, particularly at the pressure safety valve found at water pressure tanks.

Water heater temperature too high: The water heater temperatures are excessive. For example on an electric water heater a malfunctioning control can overheat the water e.g. the water heater thermostat is not working properly and is not shutting off the heat source when it should -

Water pressure too high: The building water supply pressure is too high or periodically water pressure fluctuates and is too high at times. Pressures over 70 psi in a typical building tend to cause leaks at plumbing fixtures and higher pressures are likely to cause or contribute to leaks at TPR valves.

Water pressure reducing valve / water feed valve problems: On a hot water hydronic heating system, if the water pressure reducer/feeder valve is not working properly it may over-feed water into the heating system causing overpressure.

Combinations of factors causing TP Valve Leaks: OK so this is more than 12 causes of TPR valve leaks, but keep in mind that the temperature/pressure relief valve leak causes listed above can also occur in combination. For example high incoming water pressure alone may not cause a TPR valve to leak but if we add water hammer then the valve may be leaky.

As our photo shows (above left), mineral salts left behind as hot water evaporates from the mouth of a pressure or temperature relief valve can completely clog the spring that is intended to allow the relief valve to open under excess (unsafe) pressure.

The impaction of the relief valve spring with copper and calcium salts in this photo means that the valve is almost certainly not going to open should the heater"s internal pressure become unsafe.

The drip shown at the mouth of this relief valve demonstrates that a relief valve can drip and leak for a long time without anyone observing this dangerous condition.

Technical note: why must the TP Valve point "down"? Take a look at the photo above. If a relief valve is dripping the deposit of minerals inside the valve will accumulate still more rapidly if the valve points to the side or upwards. The result is a clogged valve as we explain above - a dangerous situation that risks an explosion.

Watch out, serious safety hazards can be caused by dripping at the TP discharge line: often the dripping is caused by thermal expansion of hot water.

For details please see THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS - an explanation of why thermal expansion leaks occur on hot water systems & what to do about it

Also see HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE - for an explanation of just how much pressure increase to expect when heating water. In explaining why the relief valve on a water heater may be dripping

With a sidearm gas heater a common problem is frequent T&P valve opening even though there is very little hot water in the hot water storage tank. That"s because an overheated condition exists right at the sensor point of the T&P valve - most of the overheated water is "congested" at the top of the tank.

This problem can be caused by undersized circulation piping between the sidearm heater and the water tank. Undersized piping between the sidearm heater and the tank (supply or return) amounts to a restriction of the circulation area (or volume).

When this "too small" circulation area or volume is combined with a heater whose BTU input rate is higher than that undersized volume can carry, proper circulating does not occur through the tank nor through the sidearm heater coils themselves - the "congestion" referred to above occurs.

In turn this congestion (think of it as a hot water traffic jam) causes overheating right where the T&P valve sensor is located, thus causing the valve to spill hot water repeatedly.

Because there is just a small volume of "too hot" water where the valve is located, the valve opens, spills the small amount of hot water, then is cooled and closes after just a short interval.

RELIEF VALVE LEAKS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1] "Residential Electric Water Heater Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide", American Water Heater Co., October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source: americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf [copy on file] [Technical review requested 1/25/2011]

[3] Pounds of lime deposited vs. temperature and hot water usage: see Purdue Bulletin #74 (also provided by A.O. Smith in the article below). Purdue"s chart shows the number of pounds of lime deposited per year as a function of the water usage in gallons per day, with an assumed 10 grains of water hardness.

[4] "When, Why, and How to Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Glass-Lined Water Heaters (for non glass-lined tanks, consult water heater manufacturer)" PDF provided by A.O. Smith Water Products Company - hotwater.com/lit/training/4800r9.pdf 800-433-2545 - 01/07/2009.

[6] A.O. Smith"s Form No. 4778* All about Deliming Coil-Type/Tube-Type Commercial Water Heaters and Hydronic Boilers *Normally supplied when ordering Part No. 4930 Motorized Deliming Pump Kit

[7] "Building Owner Water Heater Safety Notice", Building Department, City of Colleyville TX, web search 09/24/2010, original source: http://www.colleyville.com/dmdocuments/Building%20

Water heater safety is imperative to the occupants of a building or structure. If improperly installed, water heaters can be detrimental to the structure, as well as being potentially fatal to its occupants. The proper installation of a water heater is so important that according to Texas State Law all water heater installations must be inspected by a state licensed plumbing inspector.

[8] Rheem Electric Water Heater "Owners Guide and Installation Instructions", (Australian models) rheem.com.au/images/pdf/owners_dom-elec_121996C_0707.pdf

[9] Watts, 815 Chestnut Street, North Andover, MA, USA 01845-6098, web search 09/18/2010 original source: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/reducingValves.asp?catId=64

[11] "Four hurt as water heater explodes", Elaine Porterfield, Paul Shukovsky, Lewis Kamb, Seattle Post Intelligencer, 28 July 2001, web search 25 Sept 2010, original source: http://www.seattlepi.com/local/33094_boom28.shtml

The powerful blast occurred at 10:23 a.m. at Plaza Zacatecas -- a small strip mall that includes four Mexican American-run businesses: a video store, a butcher shop, a Mexican restaurant and a shop that sold clothing and other items. ... The steam-powered tank hurtled across the busy intersection at First Avenue South and South 152nd Street -- over at least six lanes of traffic -- before landing more than 439 feet away in the parking lot of a Pizza Hut. ... The tank then tumbled another 25 feet before coming to rest.

In small scale testing, the Mythbusters started with a small six gallon water heater and disabled all of its safety features under the theory of poor installation or neglect. While the water heater eventually ruptured, it did not explode like a rocket. The Mythbusters then upgraded to larger thirty gallon water heater which exploded with significantly greater force, sending the water heater several hundred feet into the air. In order to confirm the stated myth, the Mythbusters obtained a full size fifty two gallon water heater and built a shack around it with a roof that followed standard California building codes. The water heater eventually exploded, shooting through the roof five hundred feet into the air and disintegrating the shack. In light of these results, and the fact that there is documented evidence corroborating the myth, the Mythbusters deemed it confirmed.

Because of built in safety devices most water heaters safely operate day in, day out without any major problems. But don"t let the excellent safety record of water heaters lull you into forgetting about the explosive potential of these marvels of convenience. When a water heater explodes, it releases a tremendous blast force which can easily demolish a building.

Randall Hilton and crew, with help from the Service Roundtable has prepared this video of a water heater explosion as a demonstration of the explosive power of a simple water heater. The hot water tank explodes using the steam pressure that any water heater can generate when the thermostat and temperature pressure relief valve (T&P valve or PT valve) malfunction. We were impressed by how far the tank flew after the water heater exploded. Click on the links below to view the video. Then, visit the Q&A page for warning signs as well as simple steps which can help you prevent your own water heater from exploding.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

Now we are really getting down to business. Once your water and power source are turned off, it"s time to find the source of the leak so you can correctly troubleshoot and repair it. Try identifying where the water builds up and clean it up. Then, the next day, if you notice an accumulation of water in the same place, you now know where to start troubleshooting your hot water heater leaking.

Do you notice a water leak at the top of your water heater? Inspect the two pipes located on the top of your water heater. They are called the cold water inlet pipe and warm water outlet pipe. These pipes bring water into the tank to be heated and then out into your home for use. If their fittings or connections are loose, this could be the source of your leak. In this case, you can tighten the pipes with a pipe wrench.

If you see water seeping down the side, it may be your Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve, also known as the T&P valve. Every water heater has a T&P valve. This is a safety feature that is meant to release water if too much water pressure builds up. If you see water leaking from the T&P valve, first make sure the temperature is not set too high. If the temperature is too high, it may cause excessive pressure and trigger this safety mechanism. According to the Department of Energy, the temperature of your tank-based water heater should be 120 degrees Fahrenheit. However, if the temperature has not been set too high and leakage persists, you may have a faulty valve. If so, you need to consult an expert to replace it.

At the bottom of the water heater, you can find a drain valve. The purpose of this valve is to drain the water heater for maintenance. If you see water leaking from the bottom of your water heater, check that the drain valve is completely closed. If it is still leaking, it may be loose. By using a pipe wrench, you can try tightening the drain valve slightly. It is important to not over tighten the valve, as this would cause it to leak more. You may need to replace your drain valve if it continues to drip after you troubleshoot it.

If you have an unexplained pooling of water near the base of your water heater tank, it may be the result of a crack in your hot water tank. Unfortunately, a hot water heater repair will not be enough; you will need a new water heater replacement.

If there’s a leak at your temperature and pressure relief valve, first test to ensure it’s operating correctly. If it isn’t working properly, replace it.

If the T&P valve is operational, check to see if you have a pressure-reducing valve, usually near the main water shutoff. If a pressure-reducing valve or other form of check valve is present, you’ll need to add a potable expansion tank.

It’s never a good sign when you find water on the floor around your water heater. But before you panic, it’s important to figure out where it’s coming from.

Upon further investigation, if you find the water is being discharged from a small tube that comes out of the top or side of the unit, runs down the side of the tank, and ends near the ground, then the source is likely the temperature pressure relief valve, or relief valve, for short.

The relief valve is an important safety feature on the water heater. If the water inside the unit gets too hot (usually above 210 degrees) or pressure builds up too high (above 150 psi), the water heater can become damaged or even explore.

A good solution to this risk is the relief valve. If at any point the temperature or pressure reaches an unsafe level, the water heater triggers the relief valve to open and release water out of the tank until the temperature and pressure return to normal.

Both circumstances should be taken very seriously. If the relief valve is needed frequently, that means there’s an issue with your water heater that is causing unsafe temperatures or pressure.

On the other hand, if the relief valve is stuck or has another problem, it needs to be fixed or replaced right away so it can do its job properly when necessary.

If water is coming out of the relief valve of your water heater, don’t ignore it. Bring in the expert team at Pratt Plumbing to inspect your water heater to make sure you don’t have a potentially dangerous situation in your home. To schedule an appointment, call (806) 373-7866 today.

If your water heater is going to leak, you certainly don’t want water coming from the bottom of your unit. That’s not to say that a water heater leaking from the top is a good thing, but it is preferable to a bottom leak. But, what’s causing that leak and how can you fix it?

One thing is certain – if you don’t fix the leak, you’re going to see other problems as a result, including possible electrical shorts in your heater and water damage to anything in the immediate vicinity. And don’t think that just because your water heater is leaking that you’re not going to have to replace the entire unit – it could be a simple fix.

The good news is that when you catch your leak quickly, it’s almost always a repairable scenario. Water takes the easiest path of resistance, which means any water coming from the top will travel down the side of the tank, which is what causes the electrical shorts and other water damage problems, which is why you want to call a professional as soon as you see a problem. So, let’s look at some of the most common reasons your water heater is leaking at the top.

Look closely at the water inlet and the outlet fittings. This is a common area where water leaks, and you’ll generally see the leak at the point where the fittings meet the water heater. You can take a wrench and try to tighten the fittings. This might completely stop the leak, solving your problem.

If you see water pooling on top of your unit, it’s a good sign that your inlet or outlet pipe are leaking. If you’re lucky, it’s just going to be a loose fitting around the pipe, which means you only have to tighten the nuts that connect to the handle.

If you tighten the nut and you find that the valve is still leaking, it’s probable that the valve itself is now malfunctioning completely and needs replaced.

The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P) is sometimes located on the top of the water heater tank. This is a safety feature that is triggered when there is too much pressure in the tank. Once triggered, steam will escape, allowing the pressure to return to normal.

If you’re confident in your abilities to tackle this problem, start by turning off the water supply to the unit and drain the tank until the water is below the level of the valve. You need to get air into the tank, so open up a hot water valve nearby. Take your channel lock tool and unscrew the valve. Give your valve and tank a thorough inspection where you’re looking for corrosion. If you find rust in your unit, it’s time to replace the entire thing.

If your tank is newer, there probably won’t be any corrosion or need to replace the tank, but you will have to wrap the threads of your T&P valve in Teflon tape and put it back on your unit.

If your hot water heater is electric, it relies on up to two heating elements to get your water hot. The heating elements extend into the tank and make contact with the water. At the point of entry, gaskets are installed to prevent leaks. However, these gaskets can go bad, which means leaks will occur. To gain access to the gasket, you must remove a cover plate and probably some insulation. But first, turn off the electricity to the heater and turn off the water supply. You must also drain the tank before you can replace the element gasket.

Regardless if your hot water heater is leaking from the top or anywhere else on the unit, Old World Plumbing can get to the root of the problem and get you back up and running in very little time. As the experts in residential plumbing in the Chicago area since 2004, we’re the go-to plumbing professionals for tackling your needs. Call us at (630) 315-0888 and schedule an appointment for one of our highly experienced plumbers to inspect your plumbing system and make the necessary repairs or replacements.