how does a gas oven safety valve work quotation

Most modern appliances have safety features built in, but your gas oven safety valve is arguably the most important. If an electrical appliance malfunctions, it can cause a fire, but a misfiring gas oven could potentially blow up your house. You don"t ​really​ need to know how the safety mechanism works to use your oven, but you may find that it gives you some extra peace of mind.

Broadly speaking, there are two ways a built-in safety mechanism can work. One option is that it remains "open" by default and to shut off if certain conditions are met. That"s how fuses and circuit breakers work in an electrical circuit: Ordinarily, the electricity is free to flow, but if the current grows too large, the fuse or breaker will blow and cut off the circulation of electricity.

The other option is for your safety mechanism to be "closed" by default and allow a device to operate only when the correct conditions are met. That"s how a gas oven safety valve works. Gas ordinarily is prevented from flowing, and if the valve is working correctly, it opens only when you want to light your oven.

Many gas stoves use what"s called a "hot surface igniter," a bar or element (similar to the ones on your stovetop) that gets hot enough to ignite the gas on contact. Gas oven safety valves on stoves with this type of ignition system take a couple of different approaches.

In one approach, a bimetallic strip operates the valve. It harnesses a simple scientific principle: Metals expand and contract at different rates when they"re heated and cooled. If you bond two suitable metals together in one strip, that strip will flex to a predictable degree as the temperature goes up and down. Wall-mount thermostats often use this principle, as do analog oven thermometers and the thermometer in the lid of your gas grill.

As appliance-repair website PartSelect explains, turning on your gas oven causes electricity to flow into the heating element of your hot surface igniter. As the igniter heats up, it warms a bimetallic strip inside your gas oven safety valve. When the igniter reaches its operating temperature, the bimetallic strip opens the valve and allows the gas to flow, igniting as it crosses the heated surface.

One intriguing thing about electricity is that a change in temperature can affect how well it passes through certain materials. For example, a lot of research revolves around ​superconductors​ – materials that offer very little resistance to an electrical current – but superconductors typically must be heavily chilled to work.

According to heating-equipment vendor Anglo Nordic, gas oven safety valves use a variation of that principle to operate. In these stoves, the flow of electrical current through the hot surface igniter becomes the control mechanism. The igniter"s bar is made of a material that offers less and less resistance to electricity as it heats. When it reaches the temperature required to ignite the gas, its resistance becomes low enough to trip the safety valve and open the flow of gas.

More modern ranges use an electrical igniter. When you turn on your oven, the gas begins flowing immediately, and it sends an electrical current to a piezo electric igniter. The current makes the igniter spark (like the manual igniter on your gas grill) and lights the oven"s burner. In this case, the safety valve works in the opposite way: An electronic sensor checks for the heat caused by ignition after a few seconds, and if it"s absent, it will close the valve and shut off the flow of gas.

It"s worth pointing out that not all gas ovens have a safety valve in the conventional sense. Older stoves simply use a pilot light, a small but constant flow of gas, which, in turn, feeds a small, candle-like flame. You essentially ​are​ the safety mechanism in this system: It"s up to you to check that the pilot is lit. When you turn on the gas manually, the small pilot flame ignites the main flame. It"s a mechanically simple system, which makes it durable, and for that reason, you"ll still see it used on commercial restaurant ranges, which must stand up to decades of heavy use.

The flame of a gas range burner should be steady and slightly rounded, with a light-blue tip. To adjust the flame, slide the air shutter mixer plate open or closed.

The flame of gas range burners should be steady and slightly rounded, with a light-blue tip. The flame should be quiet and should respond to adjustments made at the control knobs. Most burner troubles can be quickly solved by adjusting the air shutter mixer plate, which is located at the end of the burner tube near the knob controls. Turn a small screw on the plate, slide the plate open or closed, and tighten the setscrew.

If the flame is yellow, it"s not receiving enough air. To allow more air in, open the plate slightly. If the flame is high or makes a roaring noise, it"s getting too much air and you should close the plate slightly.

One pilot light usually serves all the top burners of a gas range. Some ranges have two pilot lights, one for each side of the range. A correctly adjusted pilot flame is steady and blue, between 1/4 and 1/2 inch high. If the flame goes out repeatedly, or if it"s yellow at the tip, it"s getting too little air. If there"s a space between the flame and the pilot feed tube, it"s getting too much air. To correct either condition, turn the pilot adjustment screw on the gas line slightly, as directed by the manufacturer of the range.

If the pilot flame is properly adjusted, but the flame doesn"t ignite the burners, the problem is probably in the flash tubes that run from the pilot to the burners. These tubes may be blocked by spilled food from the burners. If this is the case, turn off the power to the range and clean out the tubes using a short piece of wire. Push the wire through the opening until the tube is clear. You may have to disconnect the tube to clear it. After cleaning the tube, replace it in the same position.

If the pilot has a switch, the switch may be faulty. Turn off the power to the range and test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Remove the retaining screws that hold the switch in the range cabinet, and disconnect both electrical lead wires to the switch. Clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal. If the switch is functioning, the meter will register zero. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty and should be replaced. Remove the switch and replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

Most newer gas ranges and ovens don"t have pilot lights. Instead, the gas is ignited by an electric ignition system. In this type of system, an element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb when an electric current passes through it. The heat from the filament lights the gas. As a rule, these ignition systems are sealed and cannot be repaired or adjusted. When an electric ignition device fails, don"t try to fix it. Call a professional service person for replacement.

If the flame is set too low, adjust it. Next to the pilot, locate a small boxlike unit with a couple of screws in it. This is the ignition unit. The ignition unit could also be located below the pilot; follow the gas line down until you locate it. Turn one of the screws on the ignition. Experiment, turning the screws a little at a time, until the flame is adjusted properly. It should not be as high as the top pilot flame; leave it as low as possible. On some oven pilots, turn the control to the OFF position and light the pilot; then turn the oven dial to the BROIL position. The pilot will heat the controls to the ignition switch.

On some ranges, there is an automatic shutoff valve located in the pilot assembly that shuts off the gas to the burner any time the pilot and the burner are both off. If this unit malfunctions, don"t try to fix it yourself; you should call a professional service person for repair or replacement.An electrically operated shutoff valve used on some gas ranges has two facing valves, an electromagnet, and a manually activated reset button. The thermocouple fitting is next to the pilot valve, as in most burner systems. A small amount of electricity holds the facing valves apart. If the pilot light goes out, no electricity is generated, and the valve closes to turn the gas off. On this type of system, relight the pilot by depressing the reset button and holding a match to the pilot. It should take about a minute to light this pilot. If you aren"t able to relight this system, call a professional service person.Electric ovens and ranges are growing in popularity, probably because most repairs involve simply replacing a worn or faulty part. Learn more about how to provide routine maintenance for an electric range in the next section.

There are two types of self-cleaning ovens, pyrolytic and catalytic. Pyrolytic ovens use very high heat -- usually 1,000 degrees Farenheit -- to incinerate food on the oven"s surface, leaving only a fine ash. The smoke produced by the burning is vented from the oven. When the cleaning process is complete, the fine ash left in the oven can be wiped off the surface.

Catalytic self-cleaning ovens are coated with a special finish the allows most dirt to burn away at normal cooking temperatures. With these ovens, major food spills and spatters must be cleaned away immediately or the special finish will not work.

Most problems with pyrolytic ovens occur because procedures are not properly carried out. In most cases, the oven heat selector must be set to the CLEAN position, and the oven door must be firmly closed and sometimes latched. When the oven reaches a predetermined temperature -- about 600 degrees Farenheit -- the door automatically locks shut so that it can"t be opened during the cleaning cycle.

If you"ve followed the correct procedures for using a self-cleaning oven, but the oven is not coming clean, call a professional service person. Before you call, though, make these basic checks:

Be sure to allow the prescribed amount of time for the oven to clean itself. If the oven is only partially cleaned, more cleaning time may be required.

When you turn the dial on your gas stovetop, it opens a valve that lets gas through. This gas is released and mixes with air. It is ignited by a continuous spark which comes from the spark module, and a blue flame is created.

When the electrode on your gas oven burner continues sparking after the gas has been lit, it usually is a sign of a short in the spark module. This usually happens when liquid (like water from an overflowing pot) gets into the spark module. To fix this, unplug your appliance and let the burner dry out. Turn it on again and test it to see if drying has fixed the problem.

If the module continues to spark, call a service technician to come and replace the module, or call your home warranty company, who can send out a technician to diagnose your appliance.

If your spark module sends out a spark intermittently instead of sparking at a continuous pulse, it has probably worn out and most likely needs to be replaced. You can call a service technician or your home warranty company to get this repaired. This is not something that you should attempt to repair or replace yourself. Although the cost of the spark module really depends on the oven model the part can be found for anywhere between $30 to $250it"s a better deal to replace one spark module rather than replacing an entire oven. This is especially true if you have a home warranty plan, as the repair will generally only cost a small service call fee.

If you turn on your burner and you don’t hear the telltale sign of the electrode sending out a spark, it may be because the electrode is damaged. You can check to see if there is any visible damage by removing the burner and seeing if there are cracks on the top of the electrode.

If you see any damage, call a registered technician or your home warranty company in order to get the electrode replaced. Sometimes, your electrode"s spark is being blocked by the top of the burner being slightly off. Make sure the burner is in the correct place for the electrode to reach the gas and light it before calling a repairman or your home warranty technician.

If you don’t see any cracks on the actual electrode, you can also turn each burner dial to see if there’s one that doesn’t spark. If all of your burners spark but one, there’s probably a problem with the dial. There are times when the dials can become stripped and won’t turn on the electrode. It’s also possible that the dial has shorted out because food or water has spilled into the burner. You can try to dry out the burner, and if that doesn"t work, the igniter wiring harness will need to be replaced. Paying to repair this part is much more cost effective than purchasing a new oven, as the parts range between $30 and $100. With a home warranty, you only pay a small service call fee for parts and labor to repair the igniter wiring harness as long as it"s failed from normal wear and tear.

There’s a chance that food or grease has plugged up the tube that releases gas to be lit by the burner. Turn your oven off and remove the burner from the oven. Clean out thesmall tube inside of the burner with a toothpick or small brush.

When you turn on your oven to bake (or broil) the dial sends electricity to the igniter, which begins to warm up. As the igniter warms, the safety valve releases gas into the oven burner tube. Once the gas reaches the igniter (which can get up to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit) the gas is lit by the extremely hot metal on the igniter, and warms the oven. When the oven reaches the temperature you selected, the burner and igniter will shut off, but will turn on and off while you’re cooking to keep the correct temperature in the oven.

First, remove the shields so you can see the igniter. If the igniter is glowing, but there’s no flame after the igniter has been glowing for a longer period of time, theigniter has probably grown too old and can’t open the safety valve to bring gas into the burner tube. Call your home warranty company for diagnosis for this problem.

If the igniter isn’t glowing, it probably has outright failed, and needs to be replaced. Call a technician or your home warranty company to repair or replace your igniter.

Oven problems can happen to any homeowner, but with some troubleshooting and a home warranty plan from Landmark Home Warranty, you can usually fix small issues or repair or replace the oven. If you"re interested in covering your oven with a home warranty plan, compare Landmark"s home warranty plans here, or download a brochure with our contract for your state here.

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The kitchen is the heart of the home. It’s where families share dinner, gather together and pass down recipes. One of the worst things that can happen when preparing to cook an amazing meal for your family is to find out that your gas oven won’t light. Do you call a repairman or resort to the microwave?

A handy homeowner can troubleshoot the problem when a gas oven doesn’t light. A handful of common problems can plague gas ovens. Many are as simple as a loose connection, while others involve replacing important components. However, those simple repairs are less likely to cost you an arm and a leg. Before worrying about replacing your oven, see if one of these common issues is the cause of your oven problems.

You can check a handful of issues if your gas oven doesn’t light. From a simple power issue to a faulty gas igniter, here are a few common reasons your gas oven won’t work.

If your oven won’t heat and your gas burners won’t light, the problem might be as simple as a tripped circuit breaker. Even though you have a gas oven, it still needs electricity to run. Electricity powers the control board, igniter and temperature sensor, among other parts.

The oven should connect to a standard 15- or 20-amp switch inside your circuit breaker box. These are the single switches. Your oven may also have its own dedicated breaker switch. If not, you can check the power by testing the secondary outlet. The problem lies elsewhere if the outlet works but your gas oven does not.

While a rare occurrence, your gas oven may not heat because your gas supply is off — usually a result of maintenance repairs or replacements in the system. For example, if your oven or other gas-reliant appliance was recently repaired, the gas line is likely still turned off.

Like a thermostat, the temperature sensor regulates the oven temperature of your gas oven. It connects to the igniter switch. If the temperature sensor breaks, the oven will not light for safety reasons.

Troubleshooting and replacing this sensor is a fairly easy fix for a homeowner who is comfortable working on a gas oven. Unplug the oven from the wall.

Set the multimeter to the RX1 setting and touch the sensor terminals with the tool to ensure the sensor resistance reading is within the correct parameters.

The igniter controls the oven safety valve, also known as the gas valve. This oven component ensures only gas enters the oven when the igniter is hot enough to ignite it. This component stops working if there is not enough power to either the valve or the igniter. A handy homeowner can use a multimeter tool to test that the valve is working. Unplug your oven.

Use a multimeter tool on the RX1 setting and test the valve. Some brands use valves with terminals for both the broiler and the baking elements. Test both sets of terminals.

The igniter is the key component of a gas oven. If you have a faulty igniter, many of the other components will not work and the oven will not turn on. Oven igniters glow hot to ignite the natural gas released by the oven safety valve. However, if the heating element is not working, the gas valve will not trigger and the oven will not ignite.

To check the gas igniter: Turn off the circuit to the oven and confirm the power is off by checking that the oven light, clock and control board are all off.

If nothing looks wrong with the part, plug the oven back in and watch to see if the igniter glows after turning on the oven. If it does not glow orange, replace it.

Replacing a faulty gas oven igniter is a moderately easy DIY appliance repair. Estimated costs are between $40 and $80, depending on the cost of a replacement igniter. If you have a newer oven, check any manufacturer warranties before making any repairs.

While a homeowner can do this project, ensure you take every safety precaution before attempting. Turn off the oven’s gas supply and disconnect the appliance from the outlet. Remember to take precautions if you smell gas (even after you have turned off the supply to the oven). Turn off the main gas supply to your home, open windows for ventilation, and call an appliance technician for assistance.

To ensure you have the correct replacement igniter, have your oven model number and serial number. A Kenmore oven might not use the same part as a Whirlpool oven. These numbers are often found inside the oven door or drawer, depending on the brand of oven.

Turn off all power to your oven. Ensure the power is off by checking that the light, control board and clock are off. Then remove the oven racks. Next, unscrew the base plate and remove it from the oven. You will find the igniter underneath.

Take a reference photo before removing the old gas igniter. Install the new igniter in the same way. Be very careful with the new igniter because it is very fragile. Unplug the two wires or the wire harness from the igniter.

While your gas stove and gas oven are part of the same appliance, they do not use the same parts and components. This is why your gas burners can work while your gas oven won’t light. Your gas range has its own set of igniters, gas valves and safety features. If everything is in working order, your range can work independently of your gas oven.

Appliance repairs are always a big inconvenience and can sometimes cost an arm and a leg. Don’t get stuck without your most important appliances. Check out the Cinch Home Services warranty plan that cover appliances, including both gas and electric ovens. With three different options to choose from, you can find the right plan for your home.

Cinch serves nearly 1 million customers and includes a 180-day workmanship guarantee on covered repairs. Get a quote on a Cinch home protection plan today.

Answer: No, this is not possible due to the gas being controlled by the gas safety valve. You need the ignitor to be working properly before gas is allowed out of the gas safety valve.

The ignitor is a small round or rectangular (flat oven ignitor and the round oven ignitor) device located near the burner and is wired in series with the gas safety valve. When the ignitor is cold, it has a lot of resistance, meaning it gets most of the electricity in the circuit. As the ignitor heats up, its resistance drops allowing the heat to pass to the bi-metal strip in the gas safety valve, which then allows gas to be released to the burner assembly. The gas then gets ignited by the glow-bar ignitor. The ignitor glows the whole time the burner is on, keeping the gas safety valve open. The thermostat senses when the desired temperature is reached, and cuts off electricity to the gas safety valve and ignitor.

DavesRepair.com has an article on “Gas Oven Glowbar Igniters” along with photos and some helpful tips if you plan on making this repair yourself. He also offers some helpful suggestions on the two different types of igniters: the flat oven ignitor and the round oven ignitor and how to tell which shape your gas oven takes.

Working in the HVAC, combustion, propane, and industrial markets requires tools and equipment that can handle the demands of process complexity in a safe and efficient manner. One area you should never skimp on is that of your gas regulators.

These handy devices work hard to ensure the gas flowing through the lines into the equipment does so at the right pressure. Too much gas pressure can lead to a catastrophic explosion, harming others and destroying property. Conversely, not having enough pressure will render your equipment useless.

We understand that the world of regulators can be a little confusing. Each type serves a different purpose based on the application. Although you can rely on experts like us to help you out, understanding what a regulator is, how it works, the difference between pressure reduction and pressure regulation, and dual-stage vs. single-stage, will aid you in finding the best product for the job.

Designed in 1835, the regulator’s concept is easy, and its impact has been long-lasting. There are various types of regulators, but their function is the same: to use a valve system to control natural gas or propane pressure or other gas flow.

Common appliances that use regulators include gas stoves, propane grills, or oxy-fuel bottles for welding. Each type of regulator’s components consists of a set spring attached to a rod that runs down from a set screw through a diaphragm into the valve.

There are three primary operating components working together to regulate the pressure within the valve. The loading mechanism determines the delivery pressure. Most often, it is a spring. The sensing element, or diaphragm, senses the force against the spring. Finally, the control element accomplishes the reduction of the inlet pressure through to the outlet pressure.

Gas enters the regulator’s chamber, putting pressure on the diaphragm. The diaphragm then moves upward as controlled by the set spring. This allows a specific flow of fuel from the source to the appliance or device. Adjusting the control knob determines the rate of flow and the pressure. Turning clockwise will push the diaphragm down and allow more gas to come into the valve. Turn counter-clockwise to reduce the amount of fuel and pressure.

The mechanics of the gas regulator work well together. However, there is another component that comes into play called the surrounding air. Atmospheric pressure, based on the elevation above sea level that the building sits, will affect gas pressure. The inner parts work by sensing the pressure both upstream and downstream. The air pressure affects the way the regulator senses downstream pressure.

The application between the two types is the main difference. A pressure reduction regulator is used to reduce the input pressure of the gas, so that it is at the ideal pressure on the outset. It is a normally open valve installed upstream of the pressure-sensitive equipment it needs to regulate, as it controls downstream pressure.

Pressure regulation is often called a back-pressure regulator or back-pressure valve. Its purpose is to maintain a set pressure at the inlet. It is a normally closed valve and is installed in parallel with or just after sensitive equipment to maintain upstream pressure.

Dual-stage regulators utilize two regulators within the same housing, which operate to reduce pressure in two steps instead of only one step. At the first stage, the pressure of the supply (inlet) gas is reduced at an intermediate stage, generally about three times the maximum working pressure. The second stage further reduces the pressure to a reasonable working pressure. Sometimes, a dual-stage regulator may have two safety valves to lessen the possibility of an explosion.

Single-stage regulators only have one regulator in which the gas supply enters, and the pressure is reduced. The delivery pressure is not as controllable as a dual-stage one is; thus, it should be used in operations where it can be monitored and easily adjusted as required, or the source pressure is nearly constant. An example of a single-stage regulator is a line regulator.

Choosing which type to use should be based on the required consistency of gas flow needed for operating. Consider what kind of gas flow is required, and then make your choice.

The types of regulators are extensive and include appliance, line and service, pilot operated, direct acting, high pressure, back pressure, relief valves, and propane regulators. You can even find specialty items such as high-purity regulators for those unique jobs. At Norgas Controls, you can find the right type of regulator for your specific needs.

Norgas’ team of experts can help you find the right gas regulator for your application from our extensive inventory or design a custom solution to meet your specific needs. We have an extensive inventory of gas regulators ready to ship within 24-hours of your order.

Need to set up a quote for a client? Contact us. We will give you everything you need, from pricing to literature, to provide your customer with an accurate quote that will give you a leg up against the competition. We are your one-stop-shop for all your gas regulators, meters, valves, and accessories.

An excess flow valve is a mechanical safety device that may be installed on a natural gas service line, and is designed to automatically shut off the flow of natural gas in the service line in the event of a significant break, puncture or severance in the line.

An excess flow valve operates similar to electrical circuit breakers that trip when the electricity current exceeds its limit. The excess flow valve is tripped by an excess flow of gas, causing a spring loaded device inside the valve to automatically restrict the flow of gas. The valve automatically resets or reopens when the excess flow of gas has ceased or service line gas pressure is significantly reduced.

No. An excess flow valve does not protect against small leaks on the service line or gas meter or leaks beyond the meter assembly, such as those involving a customer’s house piping or customer appliance malfunction. It is designed to activate when the service line is significantly damaged due to excavation or other similar activities. Prevention of service line damage remains the best form of protection and all customers can place a free 811 call to have buried utilities marked before digging.

An excess flow valve is designed to allow normal operation of the service line. It will automatically restrict the flow of natural gas only when the service line has been significantly damaged and the flow of natural gas exceeds prescribed limits. An excess flow valve is not designed nor capable of restricting the flow of natural gas inside your home or structure in the event of damage to your house piping located downstream of the gas meter.

Leave the area immediately and call 911 and Smyrna Natural Gas at 615-355-5740 option 4 (call from a neighbor’s house or from another location far from the smell of natural gas)

Federal regulations require that existing customers receive notice of their option to request the installation of an excess flow valve on qualifying service lines.

The cost of installing an excess flow valve on an existing natural gas service line will be the sole responsibility of the customer requesting the installation.

The cost to install an excess flow valve varies depending on the location and difficulty of the installation; however, on average, the cost to install an excess flow valve on an eligible existing service line is estimated to be in excess of $950.

The excess flow valve is installed on the natural gas service line that runs underground between the gas main (usually located in or near the street, alley or utility right-of-way) and the gas meter on the customer’s property. Installation of an excess flow valve requires excavation near the natural gas main to expose the service line prior to installation. All areas excavated will be restored once installation is complete.

Smyrna will send out a representative to your property to determine if an excess flow valve can be installed. Due to operating characteristics and limitations in some instances, an excess flow valve cannot be installed. Each customer location will be evaluated upon request.

The device is designed to last the lifetime of the natural gas line. However, if your natural gas service line is replaced in connection with overall system maintenance activities, the excess flow valve will also be replaced.

Installation of an excess flow valve requires digging so that the service line is exposed prior to installation. Smyrna Natural Gas or its contractor will restore property to its original condition, to the extent reasonably practicable, as part of the overall project cost.

Yes. Installation of the excess flow valve will require us to temporarily shut off the gas supply to your property. As part of the installation process, your existing houseline piping must be retested and appliance pilots will be re-lit if your houseline piping and appliances are operating normally. If the houseline test fails or appliances do not pass inspection, you will be responsible for repairs before natural gas service can be fully restored.

Installation of the excess flow valve will be scheduled at a mutually agreeable date, subject to approval from permitting authorities, payment arrangements, work crew scheduling and weather conditions. The length of time to install will vary based on the complexity of the installation.

If someone has hired a contractor to do work that requires excavation, they should call 811 themselves or ask the contractor to do so before work begins. Property owners who see someone preparing to dig on their property and don’t see paint lines or flags marking the location of underground utilities, should tell the workers to STOP and call 811 before they dig.

Gas ovens are not difficult to operate. Once you have turned the temperature knob to the desired setting, all you have to do is wait a few minutes for it to pre-heat before sliding your dish into the oven. But if your meal is left uncooked even after your cooking time has expired, there could be an issue with the oven’s heating mechanism and you’ll want to address it.

Do not attempt to identify the problem yourself if you smell gas while the oven is shut off. If that is the case, contact a professional repair service immediately. With that said, there are a few troubleshooting methods to consider should your gas oven fail to heat.

First, test the burners on the stovetop. If no flame is produced, check the supply valve, unless your stove operates on LP gas and the tank level needs to be checked instead.

Next, open the door of the oven’s broiler section and check the oven’s inner workings. The oven burner and ignition system are located in the upper portion of the broiler chamber. Take a moment to inspect the burner tube for obstructions or holes from corrosion or overheating.

You’ll also want to determine the type of ignition system and then test it. Use a flashlight and identify whether your stove is a pilot light system or a glow ignition system. For a pilot light system, hold a match to the flame aperture for at least 10 seconds. If the flame goes out, the issue could be with the thermocouple.

For pilot ignition systems – or if the pilot light is functioning – turn on the oven and watch the burner tube. If the burner tube creates no flame or a weak flame and fails to heat, the safety valve could be faulty.

For best practices, refer to your owner’s manual for exact instructions on how to inspect the oven. If there are concerns at all for your safety, your best option is to call a professional.