how to open pressure cooker safety valve made in china

At present, most of pressure cookers in use remain old-fashioned pressure cooker the earliest, the safe servicing unit that does not have other except a slice safety plate on the pot cover, when reality is used, must the cooling pan body or take off pressure limiting valve and emit a steam in the pot, after making pot inside and outside air pressure balance, just can open pressure cooker cover, open pot cover else if by force, steam in the pot can be with the unexpected jack-up of pot cover, cause the injury of human body or to the damage of other article, owing to there is not reliable safe servicing unit, this situation happens occasionally.Now new national standard is put into effect, the interior pressure of pressure cooker pot was less than 5KPa when the He Hegai that more requires to uncap was not in place, at this problem, many pressure cooker manufacturers have increased the safety device of pressure cooker open and close cover successively, its basic technical scheme is all increasing a self-locking mechanism between the lower handle on the usual pressure pot, this self-locking mechanism is mainly formed by being contained in the safety valve on the pot cover and being contained in the movable guide plate in the upper handle and promoting restoring mechanism, when still having pressure in the pressure cooker, the spool of safety valve is at steam pressure effect float downward, stretch into the aperture on the movable guide plate, it can"t be moved and self-locking, thus the generation of the action of stopping to uncap by force;

The patent No. is that ZL94206278.7"s " pressure cooker use safeties " utility model patent discloses a kind of like this scheme of self-locking mechanism: by being contained in the safety valve (also can be described as latch gear) on the pot cover and being contained in the movable guide plate (push pedal) on the upper handle and promoting restoring mechanism, safety valve is made up of rubber seal seat and dress valve rod moving up and down within it, when still having pressure in the pressure cooker, the safety pole of safety valve pushes up under the steam pressure effect, stretch into the aperture in the push pedal, push pedal can"t be moved and self-locking, thus the generation of the action of stopping to uncap by force.But is pointed in 95225443.3 the patent application formerly " cover closing and opening safety device for pressure cooker " as us at application number, there be 1. automatically replying owing to spring of following defective in this scheme, so pressure cooker is when uncapping, after needing to overcome spring force with the finger push push pedal earlier, the dislocation that just can carry out next step action of uncapping; 2. its safety valve adopts rubber and seals with the face way of contact, and poor sealing performance runs vapour easily; 3. the chute complex structure on the lower handle; 4. upper handle directly is fixed on the pot cover periphery by two pieces of screws from inside to outside, and is easily loosening, and the secure fixation of upper handle, whether whether lockpin hole is aimed at be directly connected to safety valve can operate as normal.And handle arrangement complexity generally, the user is difficult to install voluntarily, just can dispatch from the factory after must integral installation good, and this has increased packing and freight again;

Our above-mentioned designed such scheme in first to file for this reason: 1. movable guide plate and promote automatic link gear between the skewed slot that restoring mechanism is designed to the movable guide plate of upper handle and lower handle, folding lid action is hand push and settling at one go additionally, and is consistent with the use of conventional pressure cooker; 2. the face seal form of improving safety valve is an O type circle seal form; 3. design special butterfly type upper handle seat, realize that the installation of upper handle is consistent with lower handle---promptly adopt traditional screw to install and fix mode from outside to inside.But find that in actual use this scheme still exists such defective: for reliably fixedly upper handle need fix with two pieces of short screws and butterfly upper handle seat, make install inconvenient; Because the O RunddichtringO is harder relatively, after being stained with rice grain, cause race vapour easily in addition.

Such a valve assembly is known from German laying-open print DOS No. 2,606,676. The pressure relief means thereof consists of a check valve which also serves as a safety valve. It has a valve housing of a resilient material which is fitted into a hole in the cover in the vicinity of the cooking valve aperture. The closure body is designed as a shaft-shaped valve body, transverses the valve opening and supports two spaced valve disks inside the cover as well as a dome-shaped head outside the cover. The head abuts against the valve opening in the pressureless state. As the pressure builds up in the pressure-cooker, however, the valve body is lifted and the upper valve disk closes off the valve opening internally so that the pressure in the cooker can build up. When the pressure becomes excessive, the upper valve disk can move outwardly through the valve opening of the valve housing. This allows steam to escape through the valve opening. The second valve disk preventing the valve body from being blown off the cooker although it does not obstruct the escape of steam. The cooking valve usually comprises a spring-loaded valve and a displaceable pressure indicator for the cooker which is located therein and is also spring-loaded. The springs press against the interior of a cap which is adapted to be screwed on to the valve housing. In the known valve assembly, the cap of the cooking valve has an asymmetrical design on the underside facing towards the cooker cover. It features a guide bevel at this location which reduces its clearance height. In the normal cooking position, the area with the maximum inner clearance height overlaps or overlies the check valve. When the cap is screwed off, the area with a minimum clearance height comes to lie above the check valve over which it can move without obstruction when the head of the check valve abuts against the outer side of the valve seat in the completely pressureless state. If the check valve has closed due to the internal build-up of pressure in the cooker, ie if the upper valve disk abuts against the valve seat, the guide bevel presses the valve body of the check valve downwardly and steam can escape through the check valve. The pressure in the cooker is relieved, whilst the person using the cooker is warned simultaneously by the sound of the escaping steam not to unscrew the cap any farther. If the valve body has been raised only slightly owing to a slight superpressure in the cooker, eg at the onset of pressure build-up, an additional stop which projects into the clearance height prevents the cap from being rotated any farther.

The known valve assembly is expensive to manufacture, since it requires a valve housing and a valve body for the pressure relief means. These parts are expensive to manufacture and to assemble. The cap of the cooking valve is also expensive to produce owing to its asymmetrical shape, and the dimensions of the guide bevel as well as the region of reduced clearance height must be kept within a narrow tolerance range: the valve body must be pressed downwardly to open the valve on the one hand, although on the othe hand this must not be so far that the valve head closes the opening externally. Another drawback is that when the cap is rotated into the open position, the stop jams the head of the valve body and this cannot return to its original position, even when the cooker is not under pressure, until the cap has been turned back somewhat. When the check valve functions as a safety valve, the valve disk cannot automatically turn back any longer due to the valve opening. The cap cannot be screwed off over the projecting valve body either. This makes it impossible to gain access to the valve body and return it to the normal position. Yet another disadvantage is that the valve body of the check valve can only be cleaned thoroughly--quite essential for proper sealing--if it has been snapped out of the valve disk. Since this is complicated and troublesome, such cleaning is frequently postponed or forgotten completely.

A valve assembly comprising a pressure relief means disposed adjacent to the cooking valve is also known from German utility model No. 7,624,730. The pressure relief means is designed as a safety valve in the form of a check valve. The cap of the cooking valve has indents on the periphery thereof. Both valves are spatially associated with one another such that the valve body can be raised adjacent to such an indent only when the cap is in certain positions. The check valve can be closed and pressure built up in the cooker only in this position. When the valve body is in the raised position, ie when pressure has built up in the cooker, the valve body in turn locks the cap of the cooking valve which cannot be rotated. Hence, the vent opening cannot be opened by adjusting the cap. This known valve assembly, which therefore does not correspond to the preamble of the present invention, is expensive to manufacture due to the design of the check valve. It is also difficult to clean, since the steam is dissipated to one side through a cavity in the cooking valve beneath the cap when the safety valve responds to excessive pressure. These cavities are difficult to reach, even after the cap has been removed. Furthermore, the valve body cannot be turned back into its original position until after the safety valve has responded and the excess pressure has been vented off. Only then can the cap be removed from the cooking valve.

The object of the present invention is to provide a valve assembly according to the preamble of the claim which is economical to manufacture, easy to clean and simple to operate in all modes of operation.

The construction of the closure body as a seal disposed on the cap makes it possible to design the vent opening in the form of a simple hole in the cover without any valve housing. Such a hole can be produced during one and the same operation as the hole for the cooking valve. It is easy to clean. The arrangement of the associated seal in the cap gives rise to a constructional design which is simple and easy to clean. This construction of the pressure relief means is made possible by the recognition that the vent opening need only be open to relieve the pressure. An open valve is unnecessary prior to a pressure build-up, since the air being heated up can escape by way of the conventional sealing rings between the pressure-cooker and the cover until the sealing ring abuts sealingly against the cover and cooker wall due to the build-up of pressure. In the pressure relief means in accordance with the invention, the co-operation of the seal and the vent opening permits steam to escape even when the cap is moved minimally towards the venting position. The pressure in the cooker decreases immediately. Moreover, the co-action of the venting opening and the seal generates a warning sound which warns the cook not to opening the cooking valve while the cooker is still under pressure. If there is no seal in the cap, no pressure will build up in the cooker at all.

The seal can advantageously consist of a material which is so resilient that it sealingly closes the vent opening at normal cooking pressure and permits pressure to be vented should it become eccessive. The pressure relief means thus functions as a safety valve as well.

In a preferred embodiment, the seal is designed in an annular shape. It is impossible to insert a ring improperly. The opening is always covered irrespectively of the angular position of the cap in the cooking position.

The annular seal advantageously has an internal diameter which is smaller than the external diameter of the cap section it surrounds. The annular seal is thus seated in the cap region in such a way that it can be neither twisted nor lost. Dirt cannot readily collect between the cap and the annular seal so that the seal does not have to be removed every time the cooker is cleaned.

FIG. 1 indicates the cover 1 of a pressure-cooker. A valve housing 2 is firmly riveted into place in the cover 1. It includes a valve seat 2a against which a valve body 3 is urged by a valve spring 4. This valve spring 4 presses against the inner side of a cap 5 overlying the entire valve assembly and designed as a cap or acorn nut. A pressure indicator 6 is displaceably mounted in the valve body 3. It is pre-biased by a pressure indicator spring 7 which presses against the valve body on the one hand and, on the other hand, against the inside of the cap 5. The cap 5 is adapted to be screwed on to the valve housing by means of a thread 8, thereby determining the tension of the valve and pressure indicator springs.

The cylindrical inner part 5b of the cap 5 forming the nut is surrounded by an annular seal 9 of a resilient material. The annular seal has an internal diameter which pre-biases it on the nut. The brim 5a of the cap extends externally to the annular seal.

The cover 1 has a hole 10 in spaced relation from the valve axis and is located between the internal and external diameters of the annular seal. It serves as a vent opening and is closed by the annular seal 9 during cooking.

FIG. 2 shows the cap 5 from the top. It features a inscribed ring 11 which indicates the setting of the cap relative to an arrow 12 on the cover (not shown).

The afore-described valve assembly functions as follows during cooking: the cap 5 is screwed down to the stop with the inscription "cooking" adjacent to the arrow 12. The valve spring as well as the pressure indicator spring are both pre-biased in this position. The annular seal 9 closes the hole 10. Steam pressure can now build up in the cooker in the known manner once the warm air has escaped between the cooker and the cover as mentioned above. The cooking pressure is chosen by regulating the supply of heat in response to the position of the pressure indicator 6. At the conclusion of cooking, the cap 5 is turned half a turn to the "venting" position. This causes the annular seal to release the hole 10, the steam can escape and the pressure is relieved. The venting is continuous and dependent on the speed of rotation.

If the pressure indicator is not observed during cooking, i.e. if the supply of heat is not turned down at the proper time, thus causing the pressure in the cooker to become excessive, the steam can escape through the hole 10. This gives off a warning whistle and deforms the annular seal 9. Should the generated steam still be excessively high, the valve body 3 is lifted off its seat 2a.

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1, first add the right amount of water in the pot, will cut the chicken pieces into the water, the water over the chicken, the fire boil immediately remove the chicken to wash

2, clean the chicken in the pressure cooker, add thick ginger, spring onion, 2 root, add a tablespoon of rice wine (preferably in shaoxing rice wine) in the cleaned, Chinese wolfberry, dangshen, Chinese angelica (less put, a small piece), jujube (4, 5 grain of can, more will be a sour soup), 3 longan pulp, such as fear of lose, can get rid of angelica, add 5 g jade bamboo, pearl barley, add a little less salt (make chicken flavor), add water after a chicken an inch or so, cover the pot and valve, boil over the stove fire;

3, pressure cooker steam after changing the medium pressure for 5 minutes, and then change the low pressure for 10 minutes (can keep the soup is clear, not turbid), turn off the heat and wait for pressure cooker reduced;

4, steam open the pot cover, pick up the ginger and onion, add the right amount of salt and chicken essence seasoning (according to personal preference), a pot of delicious chicken soup is done, drink it!

5, if it is with ordinary soup pot stew, water to add more, not the middle of the water, otherwise the soup is not mellow; Simmer over high heat for 10 minutes, then simmer on low heat for 1 hour (for young chicken, double the time for old hen), season to taste;

Prevent blasting and emergency ventilation when the vent is blocked or the pot pressure is too high. The safety hole is actually connected to the inside but is cut off by a layer of aluminum tin metal.

That ensures that nothing interferes with the lid of the pressure cooker, which is where most of the other safety systems are. Also, check that the primary valve is clean and clear before pressure cooking.

If something were to go side-ways, even before it gets to that point, the pressure cooker itself will detect that the pressure (temperature) inside is too high and turn off the pressure cooker.  But, while that’s happening, though, the food inside is still boiling and building pressure so the cooker will release excess pressure from the valve on the lid. And, if the main valve were to be clogged the cooker will release pressure from the lid-lock or secondary valve. If that were to be blocked, the cooker will release pressure from the gasket.

The last safety system of for absent-minded cooks like me. Where at the last minute I realize, “Oh, I need to add some carrots” and try to open the pressure cooker during cooking.  Well, the lid locks automatically the minute pressure starts to build. It means that if there is any pressure still inside the cooker, you cannot open the lid.  It’s a mechanical system so even if there is no electricity you will still be prevented from opening the lid.

There’s more than one way to open a pressure cooker and each way has its own effect on what’s inside.  What might work for a stovetop pressure cooker, might not work for an electric pressure cooker. We’re sharing the “how’s” for each of these pressure cooker opening methods to get beginners started and the “why’s” for expert cooks to sharpen their skills.

10-Minute NaturalSlowCount 10 minutes, and then release remaining pressure by opening the valve. If the pressure dissipates sooner than 10 minutes do not remove lid until time is up.1010

Using the wrong opening method can give you limp veggies, bean mush or rock-hard dry meats – here are a three principles that you must know to choose the right opening method for your pressure cooker recipe:

When the pressure cooker is both building and releasing pressure, the temperature inside is near or above the boiling point, which means the food is actually cooking during this time, too.  This is generally fine for meats, legumes and desserts.  It is not fine for vegetables that you may want to have more al dente as they continue to cook during this time-  choose the fastest release method  for veggies while more robust foods will benefit from a longer opening method.

The speed at which pressure is released is directly related to how much movement is inside the pressure cooker – more speed gives the food more movement. When pressure is released, the equilibrium that suppressed the bubbles of the boil during pressure cooking is broken and they begin breaking to the surface again. A fast release will violently release these bubbles, forcefully flinging bits of food and foam onto the underside of the lid and safety valves, while slow opening method,  such as Natural release, delicately allows the bubbles to rise into a  slow lazy simmer.  For foods which you intend to keep whole (like beans) or clear (like stock) use the slowest opening method to get the least amount of movement.

The difference in temperature between the food that comes out of the pressure cooker and the environment can affect the speed of evaporation. The faster opening methods will yield the hottest food with an accelerated evaporation of the food’s cooking liquids and juices. While the slowest opening method will have given the food a chance to cool down and the liquids will evaporate at the speed of conventional boiling.  So for foods which you intend to keep juicy (like roasts) use a slow opening method; while, foods which need reduction after pressure cooking (like a sauce), use a fast opening method.

If this is starting to sound complicated, don’t worry: all of the recipes on this website (and my cookbook) already call for the appropriate opening method. Let’s get into the “how’s”.

This list includes an opening method I came up with (Slow Normal) and another that has been unofficially around for many years (10-minute Natural) –  they add more options to your pressure cookery.  We start the list with the fastest opening method and conclude with the slowest. Further down, there’s an opening method we no longer recommend and one that used to be OK for older cookers but should not be used on modern stainless steel pressure cookers.

Sometimes this method is called Quick, Manual and, confusingly, Automatic. This is a fast opening method that can take 2 to 3 minutes.  Normal pressure release means that the cook should use the valve, or pressure releasing mechanism particular to their cooker  (such as a button to push, a lever to twist, or a slide to pull), to release pressure.  For thick recipes such as a chili or a risotto the still unopened pressure cooker should be given a few small jolts to release any super-heated seam pockets in the food after pressure is released.  This release method is used for quick-cooking foods and vegetables. It should not be used for most legume, rice and fruit-based recipes. It can be used for meat stew-type recipes (where the meat is completely covered with liquid) – but not ones where tossing the other ingredients around would mush them.

Weighted or jiggle-type pressure cookers may not have this kind of release – we recommend either using Natural Release (see below) or simply using a fork tines to gently lift the weight and release pressure.

This is a relatively fast opening method and can take from 5 to 6 minutes depending on the pressure cooker type (the element in electrics still retains heat after turning off) and fill level (more food will retain more heat).  Similar to Normal release, this method releases pressure using the cooker’s valve,  or the pressure releasing mechanism, but pressure should be released very slowly.  If the valve only allows for pressure to release full-throttle, the cook should release it in very short bursts- if anything other than steam sprays out of the valve (like foam), the valve should be closed for 10 seconds before the next slow release or short burst. The Slow Normal release is for occasions where it’s just not practical or convenient to wait for the full Natural or 10-Minute Natural release or for tricky foods (grains, legumes and fruits).

This is a slow and somewhat delicate pressure release, and as the name suggests, takes only 10 minutes – a little more if there is still pressure in the cooker that needs to be released (usually with electrics).  The 10-Minute Natural release allows for pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes and then, if there is any remaining pressure,  it is released using the Slow Normal method.  Conversely, if the pressure in the cooker goes down beforethe10 minutes are up, the lid must remain closed and the cooker undisturbed for the full 10 minutes. This method is recommended for grains which continue to cook in the residual steam locked inside the cooker without any additional heat.  The 10-Minute Natural can also be used in place of Natural Release.

This is the slowest and most delicate pressure release method, it can take anywhere from  10 to 30 minutes depending on the pressure cooker type (electrics take longer due to their thermos-like construction) and fill level (fuller pressure cookers will take longer).  The Natural release lets pressure release slowly from the cooker once the heat (or cooking program) is turned off .  It’s most recommended  opening for tricky foods that tend to foam or expand  like grains, legumes and fruits to prevent the food or its foam from spraying out of the valve;  foods that need to cool down slowly  such as braised and steamed meats and desserts to prevent their moisture from evaporating too quickly;  and,  stocks to keep the food from tossing the ingredients around in a way that would cloud it.

Some opening methods can fall out of fashion because they are either too problematic or the materials used to make the cookers (such as 100% aluminum) are no longer popular.

Using the right opening method can help a recipe end on the right note but it’s also a question of safety.  The wrong opening method could clog the safety valves or even damage the pressure cooker.

I’ve spent my entire career in professional kitchens, and the last five years writing cookware guides for Wirecutter. I have extensive knowledge of pots and pans. For this guide, I built on my personal experience by interviewing pressure-cooking experts, including Lorna Sass, author of Dad Cooks Dinner. And I also turned to reputable editorial sources such as Cook’s Illustrated (subscription required), Hip Pressure Cooking, The Veggie Queen, Serious Eats, and Miss Vickie.Who should get this

If you’re interested in making soups, stews, stocks, and one-pot meals in a third of the time it would take in regular cookware, a pressure cooker is for you. Pressure cookers seal tight to trap steam, which builds pressure inside the pot. Because the boiling point of water increases at higher pressures, food in a pressure cooker cooks at a higher temperature than it would in a pot (and higher heat = less cooking time).

Pressure cookers are also essential for high-altitude dwellers (above 3,000 feet). Atmospheric pressure is lower at high altitudes, so the boiling point of water decreases as elevation increases (PDF). For example, water boils in Denver at 202 degrees Fahrenheit (as opposed to 212 °F at sea level). A pressure cooker at 15 psi raises the boiling point in Denver to 244.4 ºF, thus cooking food hotter and faster.

We understand that some folks find pressure cookers intimidating. We’ve all heard stories of a cooker blowing its lid and covering the ceiling with split-pea soup. But those stories probably involve old-school pressure cookers that lack the safety features of modern models. The newest generation of stovetop cookers are safer and easier to use than ever before because they’re equipped with automatic steam venting (if too much pressure builds) and visible pressure indicators. Read more about the safety of modern pressure cookers here.Stovetop vs. electric pressure cookers

Choosing between a stovetop and electric pressure cooker is a matter of your personal cooking style and need for convenience. Although a stovetop cooker requires a bit of babysitting, an electric pressure cooker does most of the work for you (kind of like a slow cooker). A lot of folks still prefer stovetop pressure cookers over electric models (myself included) because they cook faster, sear better, and offer more capacity for their size. A stovetop model cooks at a higher pressure level than any electric pressure cooker currently available (15 psi compared with 12 psi, respectively). More pressure means a higher boiling point, and therefore faster cooking times.

Stovetop pressure cookers sear and sauté better and hotter than electric models because your range burner is much more powerful than any heating element in a small electric appliance. When you can sear a thicker, darker crust on meat, that translates to more complex flavor in your finished dish. Electric models are bulky because of the housing around the cooking pot, something stovetop cookers don’t have. While an 8-quart electric cooker has roughly the footprint of a large dish rack, our top pick is the size of a regular stockpot.

Finally, electric cookers depressurize either naturally as they cool, or quickly through the steam-release valve. But with stovetop cookers, you have a third option of depressurizing quickly but gently by running cold tap water over the lid (something you should never do with an electric appliance).

But electric pressure cookers, like the Instant Pot, have their benefits too. Namely, they are fully programmable and don’t require babysitting: you can turn them on and walk away. They can also do other things that stovetop cookers can’t, like slow cook and make yogurt. That said, we still love stovetop pressure cookers because they’re faster and easier to store than their electric counterparts. If you’re curious about electric cookers, we have a guide for those, too.How pressure cookers work

Think of a pressure cooker as just a pot with a special lid that raises the boiling point of water. The lid is fitted with a silicone gasket and locks onto the pot to create an airtight seal that allows steam and pressure to build. Under pressure (up to 15 psi in a stovetop pressure cooker) the boiling point of water (212 ºF at sea level) can climb as high as 250 ºF. This can decrease cooking time by up to two-thirds.

Modern pressure cookers (also called second-generation) are quieter, easier to use, and more versatile than first-generation models. Second-generation cookers have features that their predecessors lack, like visible pressure indicators and a choice of pressure levels. The valve system on old-style pressure cookers causes them to whistle constantly while cooking, and offers only one pressure setting: high. New versions of both first- and second-generation pressure cookers are equipped with safety mechanisms so there’s little to no risk of accidental eruptions.

One important safety measure to note is that stovetop pressure cookers do require some monitoring (unlike electric pressure cookers, which allow you to hit Start and walk away). First, after loading your ingredients into the cooker, make sure the gasket and lip of the pot are dry and clean, to ensure a tight seal. Then, with the lid locked into place, you’ll need to heat the pot on the stove over medium-high heat, watching for the pressure indicator in the lid to pop up. This is your cue to turn the heat down to low and set the timer according to your recipe. When the timer stops, take it off the heat and depressurize the pot naturally (by waiting for it to cool) or quickly (either run cold tap water over the pot or use the steam-release button).New pressure cookers are totally safe

Pressure cookers have come a long way since the rattly, potential kitchen geysers our grandparents used. New pressure cookers come with a system of safety features like backup pressure-relief valves, or, in some cases, gaskets that are designed to vent steam in the case of overpressurization. Stovetop models require a little more attention than electric pressure cookers because you have to reduce the heat once they come up to pressure, but they’re still safer than ever.

Don’t bother with cookers made before 1990. They have only one pressure-release valve, and if a bean skin or any food particle clogs the valve, the lid will blow. Many don’t have locking lids, so you can open the cooker while at full pressure and give yourself a nasty steam burn. Plus, they’re noisy and the gaskets are old. Valves and gaskets need to be replaced on pressure cookers because they wear out with use (even those on new cookers), and you’d be hard pressed to find replacement parts for cookware that went out of production years ago.How we picked

A pressure cooker is a great kitchen tool because it can cut cooking times in half. But quick cooking times don’t mean much if the cooker is a royal pain to use. Top-performing models are easy to use, versatile, well-designed, and simple to clean and maintain. To find the best stovetop pressure cooker, one that suits both experienced cooks and novices, we considered these features:

The ideal pressure cooker will let you caramelize onions, sear meats, and cook a variety of dishes. Cookers with a wide, low profile allow for better evaporation when searing and sautéing. A deeper pot has a smaller cooking surface, so browning meat takes longer because you have to work in smaller batches.

When deciding what size to get, you want to take an honest look at your cooking habits and the number of mouths you regularly feed. A two- to four-person household can easily get by with a 6-quart capacity pressure cooker for dinners, but that volume is limiting for large-batch cooking and stock-making. For us, the sweet spot is 8 quarts. It’s big enough to make a decent amount of stock and can cook as little as 1½ cups of liquid. But we also understand that one size doesn’t fit all, and our top pick is available in four sizes to cover a wide breadth of needs.

Pressure cooking can be a nerve-racking affair for some, so we prefer pots that eliminate most of the guesswork. The lid should lock on smoothly and tightly. Not knowing if your pressure cooker is sealed properly or struggling to get the lid in the right placement is frustrating. Looser-fitting lids will still allow the pot to come up to pressure but may jiggle, causing you some uneasiness in the process.

We especially liked cookers with easy-to-spot pressure indicators. Our favorite model has a large, bright blue spring valve with white rings as pressure markers (one for low, two for high). Cheaper cookers have recessed indicators that are more difficult to see from a distance.

All pressure cookers perform similarly when the lid is sealed and the built-up steam is doing its thing. But the best should heat evenly enough to sauté or sear aromatics and meat without scorching—otherwise you have to do those tasks in a separate pot. Most pressure cookers are made of stainless steel, with a tri-ply disk (aluminum sandwiched between two layers of stainless steel) at the base of the pot. The best pressure cookers, ones that deliver the best searing action, have thicker, wider disks that distribute heat evenly and lessen the chance of scorching.

Small things on pressure cookers should be replaced occasionally. The gasket (silicone ring in the lid), and valve base seals will wear out with use and age. You’ll know if these parts are worn out because your cooker will take longer to come to pressure, and you may notice steam escaping where it didn’t before. For this reason, we looked for pressure cookers from companies with easy-to-purchase and affordable replacement parts.

Warranties on pressure cookers usually cover only the pot and lid for an extended period of time. Soft, rubbery parts that degrade with use, like the sealing gasket, are considered consumables and not covered under warranty.How we tested

Our kitchen team examined the quality of the food we cooked in each model, as well as their user-friendliness. We cooked unsoaked black beans, brisket, and brown rice to see if some models took more time or babysitting than others. We sautéed onions and aromatics, and seared some beef to test heat distribution across the cooking surface.

After all of our testing, the end result was more or less the same. Any pressure cooker will cook basic dishes, like beans and braised meat, no problem. The difference was how usable they were and how well they seared meat and sautéed vegetables. Flimsy stovetop cookers scorched while searing meat, and had lids that were difficult to attach.Our pick: Fissler Vitaquick 8.5-Quart Pressure Cooker

The Fissler Vitaquick 8.5-Quart Pressure Cooker is an exceptional stovetop pressure cooker with a smooth locking lid and superior browning capabilities. It’s our only pick that has two pressure levels. Low pressure is ideal for delicate foods (eggs and fish) and high pressure quickly cooks dry beans and tough cuts of meat. The tri-ply base is thicker and wider than the Presto’s (our budget pick) and offers the best browning and searing of any pot we tried, leaving us with no scorch spots on the edges of the pot. The Fissler is on the heavy side, but it offers an easy-to-grasp helper handle for added support when transporting. Yes, the Fissler is pricey, but if you’re serious about pressure cooking, it’s money well-spent.

Of all the pressure cookers we tested, the Fissler is the easiest to use. The lid sits and slides into place more smoothly than the Presto’s, and clearly lets you know it’s in place with both an audible click and an indicator window on the handle that turns green. Instead of a recessed pop-up pin like the Presto has, Fissler’s pressure indicator is easy to see from across the room and is marked with rings, one for low pressure and two for high. The pressure-release button is in the handle, keeping hands away from the steam-release valve. With the Presto, the steam-release valve is the pressure-control knob, so your hand has to get close to the hot steam vent.

We like the heavy tri-ply disk in the bottom of the Fissler Vitaquick. It’s the thickest of the stovetop cookers we tested and the only one that extends to the edges of the pot. This translates to better heat distribution when searing. The Fissler was the only pot we tested that didn’t scorch on the sides, which made for easier cleanup.

The Vitaquick has the largest cooking surface of all the stovetop cookers we tested, measuring 10½ inches across, 2 inches more than the Presto. We really appreciated the extra breathing room for searing and sautéing. The thicker, wider disk in the bottom of the pot also allowed us to use larger flame to get the cooker up to pressure. The disk covered our high flame so there wasn’t any concern about heat damaging the handle or locking mechanisms.

This cooker is very easy to clean. Just remove the gasket from the lid and hand-wash all the parts in hot soapy water. Fissler offers a limited warranty that covers manufacturer’s defects, but the warranty doesn’t cover misuse or parts that are subject to wear—including gaskets, valve parts, and silicone membranes.Flaws but not dealbreakers

The Fissler Vitaquick is an expensive pressure cooker, and the premium cost extends to replacement parts. Replacing the gasket in the lid will set you back $25 before tax and shipping. For context, a new gasket for the Presto (our budget pick) is $11 before tax and shipping. We don’t think this is a dealbreaker because good materials cost money and are worth it.

Though we absolutely love this cooker, we admit that the price is prohibitive for many folks. If you want a more affordable pressure cooker, check out our budget pick.Budget pick: Presto 8-Quart Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker

The Presto offers only one pressure setting, and you have to keep a closer eye on the controls, but it’s a great pot if you want to try out pressure cooking without spending a lot.

If you’re new to pressure cooking and you want a low investment as you test the waters, we recommend the Presto 8-Quart Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker. It’s a simple, straightforward pressure cooker with zero bells or whistles, but it comes equipped with all the modern backup-valve safeguards. Compared with other tall and narrow cookers we tested, Presto’s wide shape allows for decent searing (if kept to small batches). Unlike our top pick, this cooker has only one pressure setting. But overall, the Presto cooked everything we asked it to, and cleanup was easy.

For making stocks and beans on the fly, this pressure cooker can’t be beat for its price. But for things like involved roasts or braises that require high-heat searing, you’ll want to either use a heavy skillet for the searing part or go with a better-quality cooker. Constant high-heat searing will blacken the bottom of this pot, and it doesn’t sauté as evenly as the Fissler.

The weight-modified valve has only one pressure setting. The pressure indicator is recessed, so you have to stand over the cooker to see if it has popped up. This means you shouldn’t stray too far away from the Presto as steam builds, because you need to reduce the heat once pressure is reached.

In the event you decide to buy this cooker and fall in love with pressure cooking, you will want to upgrade eventually. My partner bought the Presto four years ago after reading about it in Cook’s Illustrated (subscription required). I immediately groaned something about not needing another piece of equipment in our small Brooklyn kitchen and put it on a shelf. After I was assigned this review, I dusted it off and started tinkering. I can say for certain that this pressure cooker is a solid piece of cookware, but I’m outgrowing it. I want a wider pot with better heat distribution for searing meats, and the Fissler Vitaquick is in my sights.

Presto offers a generous 12-year limited warranty that covers manufacturer defects but not normal wear and tear to gaskets and valves. Replacement parts are available through the Presto website. The Presto also comes recommended by Cook’s Illustrated (subscription required) and is highly rated on Amazon.Care and maintenance

Your pressure cooker’s instruction manual has detailed cleaning instructions that are simple to follow. It’s important to take extra care when cleaning your pressure cooker’s lid. Remove the gasket and wash with hot soapy water. Wash the lid under hot running water with soap and make sure there isn’t any food debris in the valve.

You’ll need to replace gaskets from time to time, and that’s normal for all pressure cookers. These soft parts wear out eventually and you’ll notice them giving out when your pressure cooker won’t stay pressurized like it did before. If you see excessive steam escaping from the lip of the pot or the valve, it’s time for a new gasket. Always buy replacement parts from the company’s website or authorized dealer to make sure you’re getting an authentic part made for your specific model.The competition

Our former top pick, the Fagor Duo 8-Quart pressure cooker, has been discontinued because the company is going out of business. You can still find it at retailers (as of May 2018), but when those models are gone, that’s it. The Fagor Duo is a good-performing pressure cooker for the price. But we don’t know what kind of customer service Fagor will give after it officially shutters.

Even though Kuhn Rikon innovated the spring valve, and thus the second-generation pressure cooker, the Duromatic Pressure Cooker, 7.4-Quart didn’t wow us. Getting it to hold a certain pressure was difficult, so we found ourselves standing over the pot fiddling with the burner half the time. We had to order two Duromatics because the first one came with a loose handle, but the second was fine. It’s sturdily built (barring any lemons), but at this price, you’re better off paying a bit more for the Fissler Vitaquick.

We really liked the easy-to-operate lid on the T-Fal Clipso, but the unit’s narrow stockpot shape was too limiting, making browning meat awkward. Also, the lid itself never seals tight. It jiggles around a bit, which always made us a little nervous.Sources

*NOTE:We do not offer flat rate shipping for orders over 100lbs that may require special handling (i.e.: residential addresses, addresses without lift gates or require inside delivery or special delivery appointments). Orders will be canceled after 24 hours if a customer does not return our contact request to pay for the additional shipping fees associated with the special handling shipping cost. The company, at its discretion, may also limit the quantity of sale items purchased and/or multiple orders for identical items shipped to the same address. This includes return shipping as well, if a return shipment is over 100lbs and requires special handling, the customer must return these items at their own expense.

Each order is allotted 7-10 business days to process and ship. After the order is processed and shipped out of the WMF Americas warehouse, a shipment confirmation, which will contain the tracking information for the order, will be sent automatically via email.

We currently do not ship to addresses that are outside of the United States. You may use a credit card issued outside of the United States but you must have a shipping address in the United States to complete the order process.

WMF Americas does not back order merchandise. If an item is unavailable, you will be notified of the unavailability and the item will be removed from your order. It will not be shipped to you, and you will not be charged for it.

Due to issues occurring with APO and PO boxes, WMF Americas no longer ships to APO or PO boxes. We need a physical United States address for shipping. This would automatically exclude any returns from APO boxes.

WMF Americas Group Inc. is not responsible for damaged product or missing pieces of an order if it has been shipped using a freight forwarding agency. All warranties are voided when a freight forwarding agency is used and items are shipped in a secondary shipment overseas.If you used a freight forwarding agency, please ensure that your agent at the freight forwarding agency inspects the products for damage/defects or missing items and reports it within 24 hours of the delivery date from WMF Americas Group Inc. to the freight forwarding agency. Once product leaves the US, all liability is relinquished by WMF Americas Inc.

No. Items being returned must be in their original packaging and in unused condition. They should be sent back to us in the original shipping carton before 21 days have expired after they were delivered to you. Items will be inspected after their return to the WMF Americas warehouse to determine their condition. If you return used items to WMF Americas, you may pay a $10.00 shipping fee to have the items shipped back to you.

I received a notification that my order was cancelled or items were removed due to "unavailable items." When I placed the order the items were available. How did this happen?

We do our best to manage product inventory, but during times of heavy website activity, unavailability of products can occur even after an order is placed. This unforeseen activity cannot be controlled by us. In the event that products become unavailable, they are automatically deleted from an order, and customers are notified via e-mail of the change to their order. These removed items will not be shipped out or charged to the customer. WMF will notify the customer within 7 days from the order date if there has been a change in their order.

No. Unfortunately, once an order is submitted, no changes or edits can be made to the order. You will receive a shipping email with your tracking number when it is shipped. You can then contact the shipping provider (UPS or FEDEX) and, for a small fee, you can change the shipping address with them.

No. Unfortunately, once an order is submitted, no changes or edits can be made to the order. You can place a separate order for any additional items that you did not include.

If you already have an account with WMF Americas, you can log into your account and view your order progress. If you have not yet created an account, learn how to do so by clicking here.

When you are putting your lid on or taking it off, be sure that the dimple on top of the lid to the left of the lid handle is lined up with the cooker handle. The two must be lined up in order to put the lid on and lock it as well as to take it off and unlock it.

The size of the stove burner is unsuitable. To ensure that this does not occur again, make sure that the diameter of the base of the pressure cooker matches that of the burner.

An incorrect heat setting is being used. You may need to turn up your heat ever so slightly. Remember that a little heat goes a long way. A slight adjustment may be all that is needed.

The lid may not be closed correctly. To check if this is the cause of the problem, fully reduce the pressure, open the lid, and check that the sealing ring fits correctly. After making sure that the sealing ring fits properly, close the lid again (as in the instructions that came with your pressure cooker) and try again to see if the problem is remedied.

The ball in the safety valve (9) does not fit correctly. To check if this is causing the problem, fully reduce the pressure, open the lid, and check the safety valve (9) making sure that the metal ball is positioned correctly. After checking the positioning of the metal ball, close the lid and try using your pressure cooker again.

There is no liquid in the pressure cooker. To check if this could possibly be the cause of your problem, fully reduce the pressure, open the lid, and add liquid. It is recommended to have a minimum of at least 1 cup of liquid.

The sealing ring (10) and/or the rim are dirty. To check if this is the cause of the steam escaping, fully reduce the pressure and open the lid. Then, clean the sealing ring (10) and the rim. Replace the lid and try to use your pressure cooker again.

The regulator (7) is not set to the “Zu/Locked" position. To check if this is the cause, be sure to push the regulator (7) to “Zu/Locked” position. Try using your pressure cooker again.

The sealing ring (10) is damaged or hardened (through normal wear and tear). If this appears to be the cause, simply replace the ring (10) with an original WMF replacement sealing ring, which is available for order on our website.

No. In most cases there is nothing wrong with your pressure cooker. More than likely the ball is not in the correct position in the safety valve and has probably been pressed into the upper chamber. To see if this is the cause, fully reduce the pressure, open the lid, and press the ball into the lower chamber of the valve. Check the maneuverability of the main valve (3) and close the pressure cooker again, giving the pressure cooker another try.

In most cases there is nothing wrong with your pressure cooker. Most likely the cooking indicator seal (2) on the inside of the lid handle is not in the correct place or is damaged. Reposition the cooking indicator seal (2), and if this does not remedy the problem, replace it with an original WMF replacement seal.

In most cases there is nothing wrong with your pressure cooker. On a high heat setting, a humming noise may occur. This noise arises for technical reasons as well as being a safety feature. It does not indicate a fault in your pressure cooker.

In most cases, burnt food is caused by the heat source being too high. Since pressure cookers use pressure to cook, a little heat goes a long way and can build up quite a bit of pressure. Ensure there is enough liquid to bring the pot to pressure and do not let the pot go dry during the cooking process.

No. In most cases, this is not normal. This is caused by one of two things. The first cause is that you have too much water in the pressure cooker. To resolve this issue, you first need to fully reduce the pressure in your pressure cooker. Then, simply take the lid off and remove some of the liquid. The second cause is that the sealing ring inside the rim of your pressure cooker could be dirty or damaged. To resolve this issue, fully reduce the pressure of your cooker, remove the lid, and then clean your sealing ring. If, upon further inspection, you find that the sealing ring is damaged, simply replace it by ordering a new one from our website.

A WMF pressure cooker has a 3-year limited warranty from the date of purchase with a valid Warranty Registration Card or proof of purchase. WMF has the right to deny any warranty claim that does not include the Warranty Registration Card or proof of purchase. This warranty only covers defects in the material or workmanship of the pressure cooker and does not include damage caused by misuse or abuse of your pressure cooker.

Parts that can be replaced such as the cooking indicator seal, safety valve, sealing ring, and handles, which are all subject to normal wear and tear and for which WMF offers replacement parts at the WMF Americas website.

A Warranty Registration Card is a physical card that is included in the box with your new pressure cooker. It can be found attached to the back of your pressure cooker operating instructions booklet. This card must be filled out with all required information and then mailed back to WMF Americas Group Inc. This information is very important, especially if you need to make a warranty claim on your pressure cooker. Without it, your claim may be subject to refusal and you may be held as the liable party in the claim.

In most cases, this is not a warranty claim and is usually due to improper use of the cookware. Improper use includes the wrongful and unnecessary use of constant high heat and especially high heat over a period of time.

The maximum oven temperature is dependent on the lid and handle material. To learn more about the maximum oven temperatures for the lids and handles of specific WMF cookware, Click Here.

Yes. Our cookware is made of the same materials and held to the same high-quality standards, no matter where the cookware is made. We hold all of our factories to strict manufacturing and materials specifications. We maintain strict oversight and monitoring of the manufacturing process to ensure that the quality of our cookware, whether it is manufactured in China or Germany, is of equal quality and meets all WMF quality standards.

Food sticking to your pan is not a manufacturing defect but, rather, is a result of having the heat too high. Eggs are especially delicate and are very susceptible to overheating. In order to cook the best eggs, you must reduce the heat under your Silit cookware; and, if not previously done, you must be sure to use oil or butter as well. During cooking, WMF and Silit pans require very little heat compared to other pans because they have amazing heat retention. This results in great energy savings for you, the consumer.

If you need to know the best way to care for your stainless steel cookware, please visit our page on caring for your stainless steel cookware by clicking here.

No. The water-bath method is not suitable for Kaiser products and affects them the same as washing them in the dishwasher does. Kaiser springform pans are made of steel with a micro-porous non-stick coating, which makes them sensitive to the water vapor that can pass through the coatings and cause corrosion by the water coming in contact with the steel. The resultant corrosion formation causes coating infiltration and detachment.

Our baking molds are only suitable for baking in the oven. Food should be removed from Kaiser baking pans as soon as possible and should not be stored for several hours in the pans to avoid the build-up of condensation and corrosion.

It is recommended that you only clean your Kaiser bakeware by hand, using a soft cloth in hot water with a non-abrasive dish soap. Do NOTuse commercial cleaners or aggressive cleaning agents. Be sure that you do not use any abrasive cleaning tools such as steel wool, wire brushes, course sponges or scrapers. If sharp or abrasive materials come in contact with the sides of the pans, it can cause the coating to crack and peel.

A safety valve protects the system and equipment from overpressure. Overpressure develops when the pressure exceeds the system’s maximum allowable working pressure (MWAP) or the pressure under which it has been designed. Safety valves have a short opening time to discharge gases or liquids immediately. A safety valve opens when a certain pressure is reached; it opens partially at first to eliminate undesirable pressure from the system as rapidly as possible.

Safety valves are utilized to stop pressure rises that might cause malfunctions, fire risks, or explosions. Safety valves are utilized when electrical or pneumatic safety systems malfunction since they only have mechanical components. The system’s media fully activates a safety valve, keeping it operational in the case of a power failure.

Pressure relief valves (safety relief valves) are designed to open at a preset pressure and discharge fluid until pressure drops to acceptable levels. The development of the safety relief valve has an interesting history.

Denis Papin is credited by many sources as the originator of the first pressure relief valve (circa 1679) to prevent overpressure of his steam powered “digester”. His pressure relief design consisted of a weight suspended on a lever arm. When the force of the steam pressure acting on the valve exceeded the force of the weight acting through the lever arm the valve opened. Designs requiring a higher relief pressure setting required a longer lever arm and/or larger weights. This simple system worked however more space was needed and it coud be easily tampered with leading to a possible overpressure and explosion. Another disadvantage was premature opening of the valve if the device was subjected to bouncing movement.

Direct-acting deadweight pressure relief valves: Later to avoid the disadvantages of the lever arrangement, direct-acting deadweight pressure relief valves were installed on early steam locomotives. In this design, weights were applied directly to the top of the valve mechanism. To keep the size of the weights in a reasonable range, the valve size was often undersized resulting in a smaller vent opening than required. Often an explosion would occur as the steam pressure rose faster than the vent could release excess pressure. Bouncing movements also prematurely released pressure.

Direct acting spring valves: Timothy Hackworth is believed to be the first to use direct acting spring valves (circa 1828) on his locomotive engine called the Royal George. Timothy utilized an accordion arrangement of leaf springs, which would later be replaced with coil springs, to apply force to the valve. The spring force could be fine tuned by adjusting the nuts retaining the leaf springs.

Refinements to the direct acting spring relief valve design continued in subsequent years in response to the widespread use of steam boilers to provide heat and to power locomotives, river boats, and pumps. Steam boilers are less common today but the safety relief valve continues to be a critical component, in systems with pressure vessels, to protect against damage or catastrophic failure.

Each application has its own unique requirements but before we get into the selection process, let’s have a look at the operating principles of a typical direct acting pressure relief valve.

In operation, the pressure relief valve remains normally closed until pressures upstream reaches the desired set pressure. The valve will crack open when the set pressure is reached, and continue to open further, allowing more flow as over pressure increases. When upstream pressure falls a few psi below the set pressure, the valve will close again.

Most commonly, pressure relief valves employ a spring loaded “poppet” valve as a valve element. The poppet includes an elastomeric seal or, in some high pressure designs a thermoplastic seal, which is configured to make a seal on a valve seat. In operation, the spring and upstream pressure apply opposing forces on the valve. When the force of the upstream pressure exerts a greater force than the spring force, then the poppet moves away from the valve seat which allows fluid to pass through the outlet port. As the upstream pressure drops below the set point the valve then closes.

Piston style designs are often used when higher relief pressures are required, when ruggedness is a concern or when the relief pressure does not have to be held to a tight tolerance. Piston designs tend to be more sluggish, compared to diaphragm designs due to friction from the piston seal. In low pressure applications, or when high accuracy is required, the diaphragm style is preferred. Diaphragm relief valves employ a thin disc shaped element which is used to sense pressure changes. They are usually made of an elastomer, however, thin convoluted metal is used in special applications. Diaphragms essentially eliminate the friction inherent with piston style designs. Additionally, for a particular relief valve size, it is often possible to provide a greater sensing area with a diaphragm design than would be feasible with a piston style design.

The reference force element is usually a mechanical spring. This spring exerts a force on the sensing element and acts to close the valve. Many pressure relief valves are designed with an adjustment which allows the user to adjust the relief pressure set-point by changing the force exerted by the reference spring.

What is the maximum flow rate that the application requires? How much does the flow rate vary? Porting configuration and effective orifices are also important considerations.

The chemical properties of the fluid should be considered before determining the best materials for your application. Each fluid will have its own unique characteristics so care must be taken to select the appropriate body and seal materials that will come in contact with the fluid. The parts of the pressure relief valve in contact with the fluid are known as the “wetted” components. If the fluid is flammable or hazardous in nature the pressure relief valve must be capable of discharging it safely.

In many high technology applications space is limited and weight is a factor. Some manufactures specialize in miniature components and should be consulted. Material selection, particularly the relief valve body components, will impact weight. Also carefully consider the port (thread) sizes, adjustment styles, and mounting options as these will influence size and weight.

In many high technology applications space is limited and weight is a factor. Some manufactures specialize in miniature components and should be consulted. Material selection, particularly the relief valve body componen