oil safety valve massachusetts factory

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Here in Massachusetts we had a new law passed on Jan. 8, 2009 and I’m very excited about it and the great things that it will hopefully do. It’s called M.G.L. Chapter 453 and its alias is the ‘Oil Tank Law,” but many also call it the ‘Oil Line Law.”

It states that before July 1, 2010 insurers will have to make casualty insurance available to Massachusetts homeowners, and at a reasonable rate, for a spill caused by a leaking oil tank or failed line. This is the first time in many years that oil heated homes will be covered in the event of just normal wear and tear and aging of a fuel tank.

Homeowners must do their part. Every property owner of a one to four family residence must either replace his oil line in a non-metallic sleeve, or upgrade the line through the use of an oil safety valve. If the entire tank and line are below the pump nothing has to be done, but those jobs are very rare.

The absolute best way to upgrade an existing system is a new sleeved line, but the prv/osv valve makes a good option for many. Finally, oil companies and heating contractors can gain some much needed work and a simple permit signed by the installer and filed with the local fire department is all that is needed to comply. The permit must be made out, but the fire department doesn’t have to inspect it since the technician is the inspector, per se.

Sunstrand originally created the concept for these valves in the 1960s for high head and pressurized applications’the PRV-38, Pressure Reducing Valve – 3/8″‘and they were followed by Webster with their model. In 1976 Webster changed the name to OSV® (oil safety valve). Sundstrand bowed out of the PRV market in the mid-1970s since they just weren’t selling enough of them to keep making them, Suntec brought them back in the 1980s for use as the PRV/OSV.

The oil safety valve is a dynamic pressure reducer; it requires pressure or vacuum to work. As a pressure reducer (PRV), it’s invaluable in protecting pump seals under the high pressures needed to get oil up to burners located high overhead. Working with booster pumps, the PRV does a great job. As an OSV®, the valve works to protect us against underground oil line leaks. I was first introduced to these devices while working on oil lift jobs in the Air Force and found them everywhere, especially in aircraft hangers.

Basically, what most of us knew was if you put 30 psi on a PRV/OSV the pressure goes to about 10 psi. If you put three psi on it you’ll get about one psi out of it. That wasn’t new, but what Sam found was that if you put zero psi on it you got nothing out, but apply vacuum to it and it would open. Pressure is a positive force, vacuum is a negative force. If you have a PRV/OSV at zero pressure and you exert two inches of vacuum, it will open. As long as you keep a vacuum on it the valve stays open. Imagine your finger on a straw filled with liquid, the liquid stays inside because you’ve trapped it in a vacuum. But, if you lose vacuum, the valve closes and the OSV was born.

If you do a search of the PRV/OSV you’ll find the PRV/OSV mentioned all over the place because they work and do the job. Several states, Massachusetts and Maine, now have legislation mandating them and yet the industry still wonders about them. The Europeans use them and even have models that can be adjusted based on the height of the oil level and the pump, Figure 4. So what gives? Well, it’s like a lot of things; if we don’t understand, it we knock it. But the PRV/OSV is a device that can help you and truly do a lot to clean up oil heat’s image. By using the PRV/OSV you can prevent unseen, underground oil line leaks, and that’s a big deal today, as it always has been.

If you still can’t get the PRV/OSV to work look at your system. The purpose of the PRV/OSV is to protect property against oil line failures, but if there’s too much vacuum you probably don’t need it. Remember, when being used as an oil safety valve, it’s a gravity (vacuum) device, not a pressure device. Make sure you power vacuum bleed that pump too, and you can find the directions for that at my website, it’s my Field Note No. 6.

*George Lanthier is the owner of Firedragon Enterprises, a teaching, publishing and consulting firm. He is the author of over 25 books on oil heating and HVAC subjects. He can be reached at 608 Moose Hill Rd., Leicester, MA 01524. His phone is 508-421-3490, fax at 508-421-3477

Guide to OSVs - Oil Line Safety Valves: this article describes check valves and fusible link oil safety valves used on oil piping at heating appliances as both a fire safety device and to assist in oil burner servicing.

We explain the purpose of OSVs, which way to turn the OSV or oil line safety valve to open or close it, and we describe common oil line valve installation or use mistakes.

How & Where do We Install a Fusible-Link Firomatic™ Type Oil Safety Valve? This article series explains the installation & use of OSBs, or Fusible Link Oil Safety Valves. We describe and explain the differences in function and use among fusible link fire safety valves (OSVs) like the Firomatic®, vacuum operated OSVs like the Webster OSV and Suntec PRVs, oil line check valves, Tiger Loop and other oil system air removing devices, and oil delay valves or quick-stop valves that are also referred to as oil safety valves.

We explain where each valve is installed and what it does. We include oil safety valve and check valve troubleshooting advice, and we describe defects in heating oil piping & control valves.

The OSV or oil safety valve controls flow of fuel oil to the oil burner of oil-fired heating boilers, furnaces, and water heaters. This inline oil valve is intended to close automatically and thus stop the flow of oil in the oil line in the event of a fire.

Some suppliers use other names for this valve including the "Firomatic" valve (R.W. Beckett) or the "Oil Safety Valve OSVA-38" (Capital City Tool, Inc.).

Fusible Fire Safety Valves are designed to reduce fire damage by shutting off the flow of oil from the oil tank in the event of a fire. These valves conform to UL/ULC 842 and are listed in the US and Canada. They are required by code in residential oil heating installations in conformance with NFPA 31. - R.W. Beckett [4a]

Because the valve includes a fusible link (a lead or other soft metal core), in event of a fire the fusible link melts and the internal spring pushes the valve stem down, closing the valve and stopping oil flow.

Sometimes additional stop valves or OSVs may be installed at other locations (such as at the outlet of an above ground oil storage tank), but the critical location is at the oil burner since that"s a more likely location at which a fire may occur.

Watch out: the Firematic™ fusible-link automatic oil line shutoff valve (photo at left) should only be present on the oil supply line. We explain below

that installing an OSV on the return line of a two pipe oil system can lead to disaster. Instead, where it is necessary to prevent leakage from the return oil line during oil burner servicing we can install a simple one-way check valve on the oil return line (if the oil burner"s fuel unit manufacturer permits.)

Our photo at below left shows an example of a Firematic™ safety valve right at the oil burner. Synonyms people use for this valve include OSV, fire safety valve, oil line valve, Fire-o-Matic valve, Fusible link valve, oil line shutoff valve, oil safety valve, and Fireomatic valve.

In particular, the OSV shown here is installed between the oil filter canister and the fuel unit intake port. That means that it would be impossible to service the oil filter without spilling heating oil unless the service technician finds another oil line shutoff valve somewhere between the oil tank and the inlet side of the oil filter.

With the shutoff valve between the filter canister and the oil burner (above right), changing the oil filter in the canister will require the service tech to go to the more distant oil tank to find and close a valve in that location (if one is even present).

The technician moved the Fire-o-matic OSV to its proper location at the inlet side of the oil filter, and he also installed a Firomatic oil line check valve between the oil filter and the oil burner.

This is an important fire-safety detail as in event of a fire a closed valve on the return line (if it closes before the OSV on the supply line) could cause blowing seals on the oil pump or a blown oil line fitting, spewing fuel oil over the building fire.

In sum, the proper place for the fusible link oil valve (Fire-o-Matic Safety Valve™ for example) is on the oil supply line just before the inlet to the oil filter canister (red arrow, below left), not between the canister and the oil burner as shown at below right (orange arrow).

Below is another two-line oil system showing the OSV on the inlet side of the fuel filter canister just ahead of the oil burner and the oil return line exiting from the bottom of the fuel unit.

Regarding "the best location of an oil filter", NFPA 31 (2011): 7.5.8, for indoor tanks up to 330 gallons, requires that a thermally activated shutoff valve be placed inline as close as practical to the outlet from a tank and that a proper filter or screen be installed downstream and WITHIN SIX INCHES of the required thermally actuated valve. If it"s required in the code, it doesn"t have to "the best" - it just has to comply with the code.

Many oil heat technicians sensibly want to install a fusible-link oil supply line valve at the oil burner, not only because this makes servicing the oil burner easier but because it also recognizes that the most-likely location of a fire is at the oil burner rather than possibly at a more distant oil storage tank.

The photograph above shows the right location for this safety device: at the input end of the oil filter. This permits the service technician to conveniently turn off the oil supply inorder to change the oil filter cartridge.

The writers of NFPA 31 (2011) 7.5.8 as specified above were focused on safety including wanting to avoid oil spills from the tank, but they might also have recognizede that putting an oil filter at the oil tank protects the oil line (between tank and oil burner) from sludge-clogging.

(Jan 23, 2014) oilman said: Your info is wrong. The filter belongs on the tank so it also protects the oil line. If you must install at the burner, it must be piped at least 12" from the pump. Hence why they make 12" flexible oil lines.

Reply: We agree that there is an advantage to protecting the oil line. However some HVAC instructors (including mine) teach that if the filter is not installed by the burner it is too often forgotten at service time.

When the oil tank is a bit more remote - across the garage and buried by the homeowner"s stored surfboards and hiking boots and boxes of tax receipts, the service tech enjoys being able to find the oil burner. Having inspected several thousand heating systems, my [DF] experience is that most of the time the OSV and filter are installed where they are convenient for service - which is usually close to the burner, notwithstanding the very good reasons for locating a filter at the inlet end of the oil line.

Our OPINION [DF] is that if the technician installs an OSV at the oil burner (and ahead of a filter if one is installed there), s/he should install a second OSV on the same oil supply line at the outlet from the oil tank, particularly if the oil tank outlet piping exits at the tank bottom, and ahead of the oil filter (if that"s where it"s installed).

In our OSV photos below, the first photo (below left) shows the oil line safety valve in the OPEN position - oil will flow when the threaded portion of the valve shaft extends fully up through the rotatable knob pointed to by my pencil.[Click any image to see an enlarged version. Thanks to reader Bernie Daraz for pointing out the need for these two photos]

In our heating oil line valve photo at above right the valve has been manually CLOSED - no oil will flow. The threaded valve stem has disappeared down into the valve body and has shut off the valve and oil flow.

Watch out: if (for example in case of a fire) the fusible link inside of an OSV has melted permitting the spring to close the valve, then from outside the valve may look as if it is in the open position - the threaded stem will still be poking out - but the valve has snapped and closed internally. Most likely you"ll know this also because there will have been a fire or other horrible event that melted the OSV fusible link.

Watch out: A simple oil line shutoff valve may not be a fusible-link safety valve. The simple shutoff valve might be any plumbing valve that can manually stop oil flow in the line, but it is not a safety device.

Make sure you"ve installed a fusible-link safety valve at each location where it"s most needed - at each oil burner. Even when one of these valves is installed at the oil tank the proper place for this protection is on the fuel oil supply line

In the event of a fire, if the return oil line valve closes before the supply line oil valve your oil burner pump may burst the oil line or it may cause a fuel pump gasket or seal to fail, leading to uncontrolled oil flow and perhaps worse, spray heating oil everywhere, possibly feeding the building fire.

Thanks to Dave Ferris for this fire safety tip and thanks to reader Rick Johnston for adding clarification. (Note that not oil burners use both an oil supply and oil return line between the oil tank and oil burner.)

Suntec points out in their installation literature for fuel units (oil pumps for oil burners) that pressures over 10 psi on an oil inlet line (normally running at a vacuum) may damage the shaft seal on the pump - i.e., leak heating oil.

Watch Out: If the oil line fire safety valves are missing or are not at the right location, we recommend immediate installation of a Fire-o-matic™ type oil line safety

Recommended (red arrow, photo above left): an automatic oil line shutoff valve on the oil supply line right at each and every individualoil burner: (a type that will shut off oil supply to the heating equipment in the event of a fire, such as a Fire-o-Matic™ valve) is shown in our photo at left.

By every oil burner, we mean for example that if your heating system and also your hot water heater each has its own oil burner then each burner should have an oil safety valve. (As in our photo above left).

A common but poor practice is to install an oil valve just at the oil tank or perhaps installing a single oil safety valve at the oil burner for the heating boiler but omitting the oil safety valve for the oil fired water heater in the same building.

A second oil line shutoff valve on the oil supply line at the oil tank (photo above right) is ok as long as you have also provided the first oil safety valve at the oil burner(s).

Some service technicians install a second oil safety valve at the oil tank or at another remote location away from the oil burner, such as at the building wall where an outdoor oil tank line enters the building, or right at the oil tank (photo at above right - this oil tank valve is leaking).

This second valve is helpful if it becomes necessary to replace the oil line between oil tank and oil burner. Although our photo above shows a fusible link oil valve at the oil tank, the oil line shutoff valve at the oil tank or at a location remote from the oil burner or other more likely fire sources can be a normal plumbing stop valve.

However a common exception we see in the field is an OSV at the oil burner and a second OSV (or perhaps a simple shutoff valve, not thermally linked) at the oil tank end of the oil line.

Teflon tape at OSV threaded oil line or fuel unit connections: Webster"s instructions and some other manufacturers also specifically warn: Do Not Use Teflon Tape. Use of teflon tape voids all warranties. (Webster 2011)

The concern is that should a fire occur in the building, and should an OSV on the oil return line close before the OSV on the supply line, the fuel unit may over-pressurize the oil lines, causing a burst oil line that then sprays high-pressure oil into the fire, increasing its size and spread-rate.

Use an oil line check valve instead. Or if the heating equipment manufacturer recommends against using a check valve in the oil piping system (Suntec prohibits, Webster recommends) then leave it out.

Our photo (left, red arrow) illustrates this hazard: you will see fusible link safety valves on both the oil feeder line (blue arrow, left side of photo before the oil filter canister) and the oil return line (red arrow, right side of the photograph).

Unlike a fusible link OSV that shuts in response to high temperature to provide fire protection at the oil burner, a vacuum operated OSV opens only in response to a "sustained vacuum" created at its outlet end when the oil burner"s fuel unit pump is drawing oil from the supply.

Vacuum-operated safety valves offer protection against oil line leaks and against overpressure conditions on the supply side of the fuel unit. They are not a fire-safety valve.

Protection against over-pressure from the supply piping prevents leaks at the fuel pump inlet or seals that might occur when the fuel pump is not operating but the supply piping is under pressure from the oil source.

If two oil lines are used to supply an oil burner, (a supply and a return) install an oil safety valve or OSV or fusible link oil line shutoff valve only on the oil supply line at the oil pump on the oil burner.Do NOT install an automatic oil line shutoff on the return oil line between the oil burner and the oil tank.

If a protection against oil back-flow at the return line is a concern, and if the manufacturer recommends it, use a check valve instead. Check valves like this one permit oil to flow just in one direction. They do not close down in event of a fire. Installed on the oil return line a check valve permits oil to flow from the oil pump in one direction only: back to the oil tank.

Typically the oil line de aerator device such as the Tigerloop is installed at the same location as the oil filter - just before oil enters the fuel unit (oil pump), as shown in our photograph at left, provided courtesy of reader E.I..

The Firomatic® oil line valve can be installed in ANY position - (vertical, horizontal, upside down) at least that"s what we were taught and what we have seen - the valve is spring loaded.

In a fire the fusible link, a lead core, melts at 165°F and a spring in the valve assembly snaps the valve shut to assure that the heating system does not feed oil to a building fire. It has to work in any orientation.

This list provides some of the companies produce fusible-link inline oil safety valves (OSVs). The footnote links point to the companies" contact information in our REFERENCES section, but generally you would purchase an OSV from your local heating equipment supplier or plumbing supplier.

AFL Industries, AFL OIL STOP VALVE PRODUCT BULLETIN [PDF] AFL Industries, 1101 West 13th St., Riviera Beach FL 33404 USA, Tel: 561-844-5200 includes OSV installation instructions for the contractor.

Bursey, Charles, "The Oil Safety Valve (Service)", Charles Bursey, Sr., Fuel Oil News, February 2006 (Still trying to get the full article - October 2008 - DF) Charles W. Bursey Sr. can be reached at F.W. Webb Co. www.fwwebb.com/

Cleanburn Energy CLEANBURN MULTI-OIL FURNACE OPERATORS MANUAL [PDF] (2009) Clean Burn Energy Systems, CLEAN BURN, INC. 34 Zimmerman Road Leola, PA 17540 U.S.A. includes Oil Safety Valve Installation Instructions

R.W. Beckett (U.S. & Canada) Firomatic Fire Safety Valves Beckett Corporation produces /distributes a wide range of oil burners & oil burner accessories * equipment including the oil safety valve (OSV) referred to as Firomatic® fusible fire safety valves, oil line check valves, and fusible link thermal switches

Beckett"s Firomatic® OSVs are provided in both 3/8" and 1/2" sizes and in flare and threaded designs. OSVs are provided designed for installation at the oil burner and in a different model at the oil storage tank.

Fusible fire safety valves are designed to reduce fire damage by shutting off the flow of oil from the oil tank in the event of a fire. These valves conform to UL/ULC 842 and are listed in the U.S. and Canada. They are required by code in residential oil heating installations in conformance with NFPA 31.

All[Firomatic® fire safety] valves are embossed with the direction of oil flow and include unique part number identification ring on each valve. The seal stem uses a double seal washer/o-ring system with high grade Viton® equivalent materials suitable for No. 2 fuel oil, kerosene, and jp to 205 biodiesel blend.

Oil under pressure or vacuum is supplied to the inlet of the PRV valve. Vacuum is required at the outlet of the PRV valve to open it and to allow oil to flow. When a burner starts, the pump will supply the vacuum necessary to open the valve. Any leak in the system which prevents vacuum from being exerted on the outlet port of teh valvewill prevent oil from flowing.

ISP Automation, Firomatic Globe Type Oil Line Valves & Lever Type Fusible Link Control Valves: ISP Automation, Inc., 1035 Old Georges Road, North Brunswick, NJ 08902, Phone: 866-383-3481, FAX 866-383-3482, Email: support@ispautomation.com http://www.ispautomation.com/

Webster "Service Technician"s Handbook, Webster Fuel Pumps & Valves" [handbook]. Webster Fuel Pumps & Valves, Capitol City Tool, Inc., http://www.websterfuelpumps.com/ , Division of Capital City Tool, Inc., Op. Cit.

Webster, OSV SERIES OIL SAFETY VALVES DIMENSIONS & SPECIFICATIONS [PDF] Fuel oil safety valves, Webster Fuel Pumps & Valves, web search 10/12/2011 original source http://www.websterfuelpumps.com/pdffiles/osv1.pdf

Webster, "Dimensions & Specifications, OSV Series Oil Safety Valves, OSVA 38, OSVA 50", Webster Fuel Pumps & Valves, (1980), Op. Cit. retrieved 2/24/2014, original source: http://www.websterfuelpumps.com/pdffiles/osv1.pdf

The current fusible link valve product properly named Firomatic is so widely also called "Firematic" and "Fireomatic" that we include those terms to assist readers in finding this information. Who manufactures the Firomatic fusible link valve? R.W. Beckett. Who manufactures vacuum-operated OSVs? Webster & Suntec (the PRV). We explain the differences among these products in this article series.

RW BECKETT RECALL for FIROMATIC 1/2" FEMALE PIPE THREAD FUSIBVLE SAFETY VALVE [PDF] P/N 12130 - the stem may not travel far enough to shut off the flow of fuel if exposed to trip point temperature. Posted until 4/1/2017, retrieved 2019/10/09 original source: https://static.globalindustrial.com/site/pdf/RW_Beckett_Firomatic_Female_Pipe_Thread_Recall.pdf

Excerpt: Recently, we became aware of a design deficiency in our ½” ‘Firomatic’ Fusible Safety Valve part number 12130. This bulletin covers ONLY the ½” FPT version p/n 12130, previous p/n B200F.

Under certain conditions, if the valve is exposed to temperatures exceeding the handle’s temperature rating and the valve ‘fires’ or actuates, the stem may not travel far enough to properly seat the valve and shut off the flow of fuel. This could result in a dangerous situation if there is a ruptured fuel line downstream of the valve. There have been no reports of this situation arising, but the potential for this issue to occur does exist. This does not affect the valve’s operation when used as a manual shut off valve.

The current design of the 12130 – ½” FPT valve and handle assembly was in production prior to R W Beckett’s acquisition of the Firomatic® product line. We have been unable to determine exact dates for any changes made to the design by previous manufacturers. Therefore this bulletin covers all Firomatic® ½” FPT valves, whether using our part number 12130 or the obsolete part number B200F, used by Highfield Manufacturing. Suspect valves can be identified by the name ‘Firomatic’ cast into the body of the valve. See illustration below.

A re-design of the 12130 valve will be available pending agency approvals and manufacturing process lead times. We are anticipating the re-designed valve to be available by January 1, 2017.

RW BECKETT RECALL for FIROMATIC 1/2" FEMALE PIPE THREAD FUSIBVLE SAFETY VALVE [PDF] P/N 12130 - OLDER COPY - the stem may not travel far enough to shut off the flow of fuel if exposed to trip point temperature. Posted until 4/1/2017, retrieved 2019/10/09 original source: https://static.globalindustrial.com/site/pdf/RW_Beckett_Firomatic_Female_Pipe_Thread_Recall.pdf

It might matter tremendously which way your OSV or oil safety valve is installed and in any event we ought to follow the manufacturer"s instructions including the flow arrow.

Here"s just one example. Some OSVs such as sold by Webster include a pressure-isolating feature that protects the fuel unit (the oil pump) from additional pressures that might come from the oil feed such as from an overhead oil feed line or even an elevated oil tank. Typically codes specify that the input pressure from the oil delivery piping ahead of the burner"s fuel unit not exceed 3 psi.

Those Webster OSVs include an internal valve that is designed to OPEN in RESPONSE to the FUEL UNIT OPERATION. So if the valve is installed backwards that feature will not work and the fuel unit may not pump oil properly to the burner nozzle.

Fusible Fire Safety Valves are designed to reduce fire damage by shutting off the flow of oil from the oil tank in the event of a fire. These valves conform to UL/ULC 842 and are listed in the US and Canada. They are required by code in residential oil heating installations in conformance with NFPA 31.

All valves are embossed with the direction of oil flow and include unique part number identification ring or each valve. The seal stem uses a double seal washer/ o-ring system with high grade Viton® equivalent materials suitable for No. 2 fuel oil, Kerosene and up to 20% Biodiesel blend.

Watch out: That"s because in the event of a fire a lead core in the valve is intended to melt to allow the valve to close - to stop feeding oil to a possible building fire. So if the valve is jammed it"s unsafe.

My concern is the stem does not go back into the valve or come out of it any further than it currently is no matter which direction I turn the valve or how many turns I make. Since the valve does not STOP turning in either direction, I"m concerned the valve is faulty.

If the stem pokes up out of the valve handle you"ve screwed the valve "down" and it is "open" to pass oil. Remember that these valves are threaded opposite of most others.

The knob on my OSV does not tighten up no matter how many times I turn it in either direction. The threaded stem in the center is protruding out about 2mm so I"m not sure if the valve is fully opened or closed. Is there a fix for this or do I need to replace the OSV?

If you have a fusible link valve that doesn"t seem to turn off you might try tapping the exposed end of the valve stem. I have found a stuck, or slow to close OSV on a few rare occasions. A gentle tap, not hard enough to damage threads, loosens it after which I open and close the valve a few times to convince myself it now moves freely. A burr on the brass interior or more likely internal sludge or debris could be the culprit.

Because at the oil burner the OSV is likely to be used at least once a year during service, that"s a good opportunity to discover if the valve is not closing fully.

In my opinion painting a fusible link is potentially unsafe - paint may interfere with mechanical operation of the valve. Most likely the manufacturer will agree, though they may not have imagined that event.

there must be an exception to the rule. my firematic valves open counter-clockwise and close clockwise and are definitely firematic valves because of their construction. they are just like the photos above but turn in the opposite direction you describe

I have a Themopride oil furnace that loses prime over night when the thermostat is lowed. It has a tigerloop installed. Why is there oil in the tigerloop if it loses prime?

Also, how do you recommend trouble shooting this? There are several valve one at each end of the supply line and one before the tigerloop that I could close for a few hours and see if it solves the problem (that would atleast narrow it down to a few fittings)

On a manual 1" fireomatic valve where the bonnett section joins the valve body, is that a brass on brass fit or is there suppose to be an o-ring or gasket? Does the OEM (Fireomatic) permitt valve disassembly for installation purposes? Thanks.

Mike I"ve installed these valves but have not tried disassembling one. If your unit is from Beckett, who currently provides the Fireomatic oil safety valve as well as the "New England Safety Switch" that uses a similar mechanism, then you might give them a call to ask.

Is there a inspection protocol for these valves like Morrison has on there fusible link valves (some quarterly inspections some yearly) and are they fine to use on gasoline lines I see only oil mentioned.

Watch out: do not use an oil line safety valve in ANY application other than those listed by UL and by the manufacturer - in this case, on heating oil supply lines.

Continue reading at OIL LINE SAFETY VALVE TURN DIRECTION to OPEN or SHUT or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

OIL LINE SAFETY VALVES, OSVs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1]AUDELS OIL BURNER GUIDE, INSTALLING, SERVICING, REPAIRING, [PDF online copy of this book] Frank D. Graham, Theo. Audel & Co., New York 1946, 1947, 1955 (out of print, copies occasionally available from antique book dealers and on EBay). Use THIS LINK to read a free online copy of this helpful classic textbook.

[2] Beckett Model SR Oil Burner Instruction Manual, R.W. Beckett Corporation, PO Box 1289, Elyria OH 44036 and R.W. Beckett Canada, Ltd., 430 Laird St., Guelph, Ontario, Canada N1G 3x7

[17] Newmac Furnaces & Boilers, "Installation, Operating, and Service Manual, Oil Fired Boiler Model NBR-2001 NBR 2002", (2007) Newmac Manufacturing, Inc., Debert Air Industrial Park, Lancaster Crescent, PO Box 9, Debert, Nova Scotia, BOM 1GO Canada, Tel: 902-662-3840, retrieved 2/23/2014

Thanks to Rick Johnston for pointing out that the more likely cause of a fire safety valve in the return oil line is a burst seal on the fuel unit 4/6/2009

Thanks to reader Bernie Daraz for suggesting the need for clear photographs illustrating the OSV or oil line safety valve in the open and closed positions. Personal correspondence 2/15/2013.

Thanks to reader T.R. for suggesting clarity on where oil safety valves should or should not be installed and for discussing the proper hook-up location for the Tigerloop and similar oil line prime protection & air removal devices. April 2011.

Thanks to reader Anonymous by request 2/23/2014, for requesting clarification of the safety hazards involved in placing an OSV on the return line of a two-pipe oil system.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

Under a new Massachusetts oil heating lawwhich went into effect on September 30, 2011, every homeowner with an oil heating system is required to install an oil safety valve or an oil supply line with protective sleeve in their system. The cost is approximately $150 to $350 depending on the system. The required upgrade is to prevent leaks from tanks and pipes that connect to your furnace. The upgrade will reduce the risk of an oil leak so by making a relatively small expenditure now, you can prevent a much greater expense in the future.

Owners of 1- to 4-unit residences that are heated with oil must already have or install an oil safety valve or an oil supply line with a protective sleeve. Installation of these devices must be performed by a licensed oil burner technician. Technicians are employed by companies that deliver home heating oil or are self-employed. It is important to note that heating oil systems installed on or after January 1, 1990 most likely are already in compliance because state fire codes implemented these requirements on new installations at that time.

those changes are in compliance with the oil burning equipment regulations; a copy of the oil burner permit from the local fire department may be used to demonstrate compliance.

Not only is complying with the new law required, it makes good financial and environmental sense. Homeowners who take these preventive measures can avoid the disruption and expense that can be caused by heating oil leaks. A leak may result in exposure to petroleum vapors in your home. If the leak reaches the soil or groundwater beneath your house, then a cleanup must be performed to restore your property to state environmental standards. Such a leak can cost many thousands to clean up. Leaks that affect another property or impact drinking water supply wells can complicate the cleanup and increase the expense. Each year, several hundred Massachusetts families experience some kind of leak.

The typical cost of installing either an oil safety valve or oil supply line with a protective sleeve ranges from $150 – $350 (including labor, parts, and local permit fees).

Inner-Tite Fusible Inline Valves are engineered to stop the flow of fuels in the event that the room temperature exceeds 165˚F. Inner-Tite Fusible Oil Valves meet NFPA Standard 31 and are UL Listed for the United States and Canada.

Inner-Tite Oil Valves are manufactured to precise standards using only the finest materials. All design, assembly and quality control is conducted in our factory in Holden, Massachusetts.

A properly serviced furnace or boiler is an invaluable product. Fossil Fuel wants to be sure that your heating equipment not only remains reliable but runs at peak efficiencies, saving you money on fuel costs. If you are in Massachusetts’s South Shore area, Fossil Fuel is here to perform your heating equipment service and maintenance that will protect your system from future costly breakdowns.

Anderson Greenwood pressure relief valves, tank protection products, primary isolation valves, and instrumentation set the industry standard for repeatable service and long service life. The breadth of Anderson Greenwood product offerings for both standard and specialized installations combined with unmatched application expertise, product quality, and availability provides for complete valve solutions in the oil and gas, chemical, power generation, and refining industries.

Most people rarely think about home oil tank replacement. But tank service should be a priority considering how critical a residential oil tank is to a home’s infrastructure.

Area property owners are responsible for ensuring their heating system and oil storage container functions properly and safely. Any amount of oil leak now can become a financial – and environmental – mess later.

One of our main goals at CommTank is to ensure that you never need to worry about your oil tank. Our team provides safe, efficient and cost-effective tank services for heating oil storage containers including replacements, removals and installations. Home owners throughout areas in New Hampshire and Massachusetts have relied on us since 1994.

Replacing an oil tank is an important investment in your home’s safety and comfort, and we understand that you need to know the overall cost of your project so you can budget accurately.

For Information about estimated costs, we include the two most common types of oil tank replacement projects below. All systems are different and there are many factors that affect project costs, but the following estimates will give the average homeowner a good understanding of what their tank replacement project will cost.

The main factors that affect the price of replacing a home heating oil tank are the tank type, size, location, and proximity to your furnace (also known as a boiler, or home heating appliance).

Amount of piping needed – based on the tank’s proximity to your furnace, and to the outside of your home for tanks located in basements, or the inside of your home for tanks located outdoors. Two pipe use types to be replaced are the fill and vent pipe (which connects to the outside), and the fuel oil line (or fuel oil pipe) that feeds oil to your furnace. The tank, fuel line, and valves must also be brought up to current code standards based on regulatory requirements in NH and MA.

Indoor oil storage containers do not last more than about 30 years, and often their lifespan is much shorter, according to the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection (DEP).

Property owners face a major liability from aging, faulty or unused heating oil storage containers. According to the MA Department of Environmental Protection, the cost to clean up an oil leak from a home heating system can range from $20,000 to $50,000, with some cleanups costing significantly more.

Any amount – including just a few gallons of fuel in a tank can eventually leak into the soil, which can contaminate groundwater and require remediation. Soil waste cleanup can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars. The sooner a tank is replaced or removed, the better the opportunity to avoid the expense of environmental cleanup.

As you consider options for your home’s heating oil system, you’ll discover that CommTank is your best choice for replacement, installation or maintenance of your home’s heating system.

Obtain Project Permits – CommTank will obtain all permits, saving you time and potential headaches. Homeowners in MA and NH are required to obtain permits from the local fire department for tank removals, heating oil tank replacements or tank installations. We know the regulations and local requirements, and maintain excellent rapport with local officials.

Whistle Alarm – is an overfill prevention alarm that alerts the oil delivery specialist that the tank is filled to 90% capacity when the whistle stops

CommTank professionally installs several types and sizes of heating oil tanks manufactured by the two most trusted and proven commercial-grade brands, Roth Industries and Granby Industries. Below is a list of each brand’s features and model sizes that we recommend based on the usage for which each tank’s size, type and design is best suited.

Every home has factors that make one size, style or type of oil tank most appropriate. Here are some key factors to consider when choosing a tank for your residence:

An interior seamless high-density polymer coating (or plastic tank coating) that’s strong and durable, leak-proof, and doesn’t rust or contaminate the heating oil

The most common Roth tank size that CommTank’s Certified Roth Installers set up for homeowners is the 275-gallon vertical oil storage tank. Connecting 2 or more Roth tanks in parallel is recommended to accommodate the heating needs of residences larger than 2,500 sq. ft that have access restrictions due to narrow doorways or angled stairs.

CommTank offers the four most popular residential heating oil tank models manufactured by Granby Industries, including the Standard, Standard 20-Plus, Ecogard, and EcoPlus.

A tank installed outdoor must meet current State codes for heating oil tanks. A steel tank installed outside must have a shed. Fire inspectors won’t allow the installation without one. A Roth tank with a Roth Rainshield cover is less expensive to install than building a shed and installing a Granby steel tank inside.

Yes, we handle both if required by the town. CommTank’s courier goes to each town office and pulls the removal and installation permits and our crew delivers them on the day of the oil tank installation.

Typically 4-5 hours for a single oil tank installation. The installation of two tanks can be a full day job. Jobs that require bollards in a garage oil tank installation will be a full day.  Jobs that require the installation of a cement pad (inside or out) will be a 2 phase job. The cure time for a new cement pads is 72 hours.  Depending upon the location of the tank installation a temp tank may also be needed. Tanks installed with a new cement pad in an existing location require a temp tank. Tanks installed with a new cement pad in a new location do not require a temp tank. In cases where the tank is installed in a new location, the crew will install the cement pad on the first visit, then return after 72 hours (or whenever is convenient for the client) and install the new tank.

We have seen oil tanks installed with piping connected in series (single fill and vent pipes shared by two tanks) that have led to leaks from the tank top or leaks from tank welds that have burst during fuel delivery. CommTank recommends installing oil tanks with separate fill pipes. This will ensure that the tanks are never over pressurized during filling. Connecting vent pipes in series is acceptable, as the tanks are filled separately, and will never develop back pressure.

The good oil (oil above the sludge level that is not cloudy) is filtered and pumped into a temporary storage tank. The sludge is removed and the oil tank is disposed of. After the new tank is installed, the good oil is filtered again and pumped into the new tank.

275-gallons it the standard or most common capacity. The amount of storage needed will depend on the size of the house and how frequent the homeowner wants to have the oil tank filled.

No, but lines could gel if temperatures are extremely low for long durations. If you have a long existing supply line then the fuel may thicken in the line and gel the oil.  We recommend covering the lines with insulation in this case. CommTank installs all our tanks with a supply and return line. This ensures the fuel is always moving.  We install fuel filters inside the basement and close to the furnace to minimize gelling because an uninsulated fuel filter is more likely to have gelled fuel when installed outside. For homes without a basement, extra insulation is required.  (This is common with mobile homes or ranch style homes without a garage.)

Did you know that an annually maintained oil-fired heating system saves you money in the short- and long-term? American Fuel has the qualified technicians and means to service your furnace or boiler. We ensure that you maintain peak efficiencies that will not only have you spend less on fuel – 10% less annually – but you will lengthen your equipment’s lifespan for a worry-free warranty. That’s Yankee ingenuity.

Kingston Model 115 ASME Code Soft Seat Safety Valves are constructed of brass with a Viton seal and positive stop for a bubble-tight seal. This valve is equipped with a pull ring for manual testing. Internal construction and performance are the same as Model 114 differing only by the pull ring. The Kingston Model 115 ASME Code Soft Seat Safety Valve, like every Kingston Safety Valve, is set and tested at factory for quality and dependability. The Kingston Model 115 ASME Code Soft Seat Safety Valve is approved in Massachusetts and Washington DC and is stamped with UV & NB symbols. Registered in all Canadian provinces and territories.