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The Tennessee River doesn’t loom large in the daily lives of most contemporary Knoxville residents, but two centuries ago it was literally why there was a city here in the first place.
In fact, it’s impossible to discuss Knoxville’s history for long without the river cropping up in one way or another. In the earliest days of the community’s existence, settlers drew water from and washed in the creeks that fed the Tennessee; the river itself carried boats laden with goods hundreds of miles before ending up in New Orleans and the Gulf of Mexico.
In today’s edition of Hard Knox Histories, local historian and journalist Jack Neely discusses the ebbs and flows of Knoxville’s connection to the river with HKW’s editor, J.J. Stambaugh.
J.J.: When the first settlers arrived at the site that would be Knoxville, what role did geography — especially the Tennessee River — play in their decision to settle here? How important was the river commercially in the early days? The river, of course, was fed by numerous tributaries and creeks. How important were relatively small waterways like First Creek to the early city’s growth?
The river was extremely important commercially, even though it was a mostly one-way thing. In the early days, when Knoxville was a territorial and state capital, there was a demand for liquor here, and folks apparently got so good at producing cheap whisky and brandy that they loaded flatboats with it and floated them downriver, all the way to New Orleans, where it could be sold for several times the cost. I love the fact that riverboat crewmen would bust up their rafts and sell them for hardwood in a city where there wasn’t much of it. A lot of the wooden buildings in the French Quarter, especially in the interiors, show traces of the rope holes and grooves characteristic of flatboats.
JACK:It was a mostly one-way trip until 1828, when the first steamboat, known as the Atlas,made it past the shoals to Knoxville to collect a cash prize. Steamboat navigation after that was limited, depending on the time of year, but it became important. A particular kind of steamboat, a sternwheeler that could negotiate shallow water better than most Mississippi-style ships, became known at the Tennessee River Steamboat.
Knoxville was part of America’s network of steamboat ports. Due to the limitations of the river, however — the fact that it sometimes got shallow and had multiple hazards downstream — going all the way downstream on the Tennessee River to Alabama and beyond was pretty daring. But many people did use it. Some of the immigration to Knoxville in the 1840s and ’50s was via riverboat. Many of the Swiss, for example, came overland from ports like Charleston to Chattanooga and then took the riverboat to Knoxville.
It became much less critical after 1855, when we had railroads to convey both people and heavy goods, but river transportation remained a significant factor in Knoxville’s economy. The river changed gradually, as more freight went to trains, and later 18-wheel trucks, though some heavy, bulky things like asphalt and sand are still more easily transported by river barge. There’s still a port at Forks of the River, Burkhart’s Wharf — or, at least, that’s what it used to be called.
Because the river flooded a lot, Knoxville didn’t spend much on architecture down there, building mainly cheap warehouses that might be washed away. There were two wharves, one at Central Street, and one at Prince Street, which is analogous to Market Street today. It was near what’s now Calhoun’s. The Central Street Wharf was considered more industrial, the Prince Street Wharf was where passengers would go to board an excursion boat. After the Civil War, there were probably more excursion trips, picnics, and even dancing aboard then practical transportation for people.
JACK:Knoxville feared the river for many years. It was feared because it flooded, and also because it tended to attract heavy industry, from the old gas works to the modern-day asphalt plants. It was often full of trash and dead animals like drowned cows as well as raw sewage, especially when it flooded frequently.
My theory is that, in the 1940s, Lake Tahoe (in California) was new and swingin’ and people thought it sounded more sophisticated to live on a lake. River pilots have told me it has a very strong current in the downtown and UT area, and that Looney’s Bend at Sequoyah Hills is one of the most treacherous turns in the river system. One pilot I interviewed was actually offended to hear that Knoxville called it “the lake.” It’s not lake water until you get down to Pellissippi Parkway area, he said. I think it’s weird to name something so elemental to downtown Knoxville after a dam that’s many river miles away. And lake or not, it’s still the Tennessee River.
The big Volunteer Landing complex was built in the 1990s, around Calhoun’s, and I was happy to be part of the historical interpretation that went into that.
Editors note: That wraps up today’s Hard Knox Histories, a bi-weekly collaboration between the Knoxville History Project and Hard Knox Wire. Jack Neely will be back on August 27 with another installment.