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The tractor is built on the chassis and drivetrain of a 1965 Economy Power King tractor which was originally equipped with a 10 hp engine. Roman replaced the tractor"s original 2-in. frame with a 6-in. channel frame to handle the weight of the front and rear-mounted tools.

He made wood templates to get the correct angles and cylinder strokes for the back-hoe and loader, which he built from scratch. The backhoe, which is fitted with two big outriggers to keep it level on uneven ground, is controlled by two 16-in. stroke hydraulic cylinders with 3-in. bores. The loader is operated by three 16-in. stroke cylinders with 2-in. bores.

Mini Tractor With Loader,Backhoe TRACTORS Loaders 20-6-7 "It"s powerful, fast, reliable, and extremely maneuverable," says Ohio tractor dealer Peter Roman about a rugged mini tractor he built and equipped with big backhoe and front-end loader.The tractor is built on the chassis and drivetrain of a 1965 Economy Power King tractor which was originally equipped with a 10 hp engine. Roman replaced the tractor"s original 2-in. frame with a 6-in. channel frame to handle the weight of the front and rear-mounted tools.He repowered the tractor with a 14 hp Kohler engine and coupled a 6 1/2 gpm hydraulic pump and 4-gal. reservoir to it.He kept the tractor"s original 8 by 30 by 16-in. rear tires and 4 by 12-in. front tires, but scrapped fenders, dash and grille in favor of replacements he fabricated out of 3/ 16-in. thick steel.He made wood templates to get the correct angles and cylinder strokes for the back-hoe and loader, which he built from scratch. The backhoe, which is fitted with two big outriggers to keep it level on uneven ground, is controlled by two 16-in. stroke hydraulic cylinders with 3-in. bores. The loader is operated by three 16-in. stroke cylinders with 2-in. bores."Positioning the cylinder on the dump for the loader was one of the trickiest parts of the design," Roman says. "It had to be mounted so it would curl back to carry a load and tilt forward enough to dump it."The 4-ft. wide loader bucket reaches 78 in. high so it"ll easily clear a dump truck for filling, Roman notes. Likewise, the back-hoe is "mammoth" for a tractor of this size, with a reach of 13 ft. from the center of the rear axle and capable of digging 8 ft. deep with its 16-in. wide bucket.Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Pe-ter Roman, 9026 Struthers Rd., New Middletown, Ohio 44442 (ph 330 542-2221).

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I had no idea a leak with the hydraulic system could simply be caused by the battery not being fully charged. I guess it makes sense, if the battery isn’t charged enough to support the press, then the pressure will build till the oil gets pushed out. I will have to tell my friend who has a dump trailer about this so he can keep it running smoothly. Thank you for the information!I have a trailer the battery seems is sufficiently charge but when I try to lift it the pump will not run,any idea of what the problem could be?Good Morning Jose,

The pump should have a relay mounted on the outside of the motor. I would try jumping that by taking a wire and touching both large terminals. This will bypass the relay which if the pump works then the relay will need to be replaced.

The other thing to watch is if the battery is low and you are lowering the box down, the pump is turning so slow that with the weight of the box pushing down on the pump it creates pressure, which typically the oil will spray out of the tank fill cap which is also the breather. But if the breather is plugged it looks for a spot to relieve the pressure, sometimes I have seen it actually crack the plastic tank.

Felling TrailersI have a dump trailer it raises and lowers just fine but when it’s all the way up it leaks down slowly what is the cause for this and how much would you charge me to get it fixedHello Clark, It could be a hydraulic cylinder or even bad o-rings in on the valve body. If you have more info we could troubleshoot it a bit more for you.

My dump trailer is sending power to both up & down solenoids at the same time…. brand new less then 10 dumps on pump – beyond frustrating can you all help me?

Can I connect my trailer to my trucks charging system with a splice of the large power wire that power my electric hydraulic plow? Since I would never be using them at the same time I figured this would solve the constantly read or under powered battery problems. If I can splice this should I remove the battery in the trailer or connect it together with it?Hi Eric,

i have a 10 ez dump trailer and sometimes it will dump just fine and other times it will not it puts presure on it but will not dump. it was working just fine the other day & the next day it was setting at the same place & in would noty dumpHello Tom,

In reply to your question on your hydraulic dump trailer, I suspect that you may have an internal leak in your hydraulic cylinder or in the pump both of these would allow the oil to pass through with not external leak.

Felling Parts & Service TeamMine goes up just fine but powers down at about 1/2 speed, it sounds like gobs of air is coming from somewhere when I lower it, everything is tight,Hello Jeremy,

Assuming that the battery has a good charge, I would then pull the valve and check the O-ring condition. The square coil on top of the pump controls the down function, you can remove the coil and then the valve will turn out of the housing. Something to keep in mind is that if the battery has a low charge and you lower the box this can cause pressure in the system because of the weight of the box and a pump that is barely turning the system will build pressure and usually shoots oil out of the vent cap.

Hi, I have a homesteader dump trailer. It has been sitting for a year or so before it was given to me. I put a set of cables from my diesel to the battery because it was dead and wanted to see what it would do. When I hit the up or down button on the the controle the pump motor will run and I can hear what I believe to be the solenoid click, but all that happens is the body will shift a very small amount and that’s it. What could be the issue?Hello Jeff,

Felling Parts & Service TeamThanks for. The great tips on your web site my dump trailer had a bad ground from the solenoid to the frame on the up side.Installed new remote for dump trailer, just keeps on clicking.

What is the issue that you are experiencing? With a bit more information we may be able to figure out what you will need to do to get the trailer back in working order.

I have A 5 ton dump trailer, when I lift to dump it works fine but when I bring it down. and it gets to the last cylinder it starts shaking and vibrating while coming down. still comes down but it is very rough and noisy.Hello Jason,

Assuming that this just started I would suspect that the pressure relief valve may be inoperable, and may need to be replaced. To check the valve you will need to hook a pressure gauge to the pump to check the actual pressure which should be 3000 psi. If parts are needed we do have an online parts store, see the following page link to our Hydraulic Dump Trailers http://store.felling.com/dump-series/

Did you replaced 1 line or 2? If you replaced two lines it is possible that you hooked them up backwards, but if you only replaced the one, then I would put a pressure gauge on it to see what the pump is putting out. Assuming that this issue just started, it could be the pressure relief valve or could be a low or bad batter. The longer the pump runs the hotter it gets, so if its just barely lifting and you hold the button down the motor can get real hot.

My 14′ dump trailer just buzzes when I push up or down it did this often and I would wiggle the solenoid and it would start working the ground had got so hot over heavy use it melted off the plastic covering it now it is just bare wire and it got stuck in up position so I swapped the round and square up down and got it down when I was going to put a new up part on it would not work at all only buzz even when moving the solenoid and ground do you think it could be the ground solenoid or connection of ground to solenoid or possibly something elseGood morning Michael,

I suspect that it may be the relay, if you jump between the two studs on the relay with a wire and then try it, if it works then the relay will need to be replaced.If you need replacement parts, we do have an online parts store, see the following page link to our Hydraulic Dump Trailers http://store.felling.com/dump-series/

This should not be a battery issue, but without knowing what brand of pump system is on the trailer, it is tough to be sure due to the fact that each manufacturer uses different set-ups. The first thing I would check is to make sure that your oil level is at the recommended running level. Secondly, check all hoses and fittings to make sure they are all tight and that we do not have any leaks in the systems which would allow for oil to leak out. Third, check and see if there might be a backflow/check valve inline that might be bad and allowing oil to flow back through the system. If all of these scenarios look good, you might have to look more into pump issues.

Felling Trailers Parts & ServiceMine does same thing it wont stay up…no leaksGood Afternoon Cody, A couple of questions and I can pass this on to our service department for there advice. What is the brand of trailer. Also what is the brand of the pump that is installed on your dump trailer.

I have a farm built, dual scissor ram, single pump system. Only one scissor system will work at a time. As the load shifts or if I disable one side the other scissor system works like a champ. How do get both sides to work in unison? Do I need some sort of priority flow control valve installed? If so where in the system and what type do I need? 14′ trailer. My system is a 5gal reservoir tank. It supplies dual 5in D rams(33″L) w/2in D rods each. HPU by Bailey 309-235A DSA1S1602S20H-25 12V [email protected] SGL ACT w/20ft remote. Pwr up/gravity down. Thanks, ChrisGood morning Chris,

If it’s a Felling trailer you can swap the two coils around on the top of the pump. The square coil controls the “down” and the round coil controls the “up” so if you swap the two around it should come down which if it does and won’t raise then the square coil needs to be replaced.

My trailer has been working fine. I had problems last fall and replaced the solenoid and cleaned out the inside of the starter motor because everything had become covered in rust. But up until this morning, it had been running great. On my second load dumping, about 1 foot into the lift, the motor sounded like it had a dying battery. I could hear the motor slowing down. Not wanting to damage anything, I lowered the load and hooked up my battery charger. But my battery was putting out 12.7 volts. I tried to lift, and only got a clicking out of the solenoid. So, I disconnected every contact on both the positive and negative sides and polished them well, still only a click. I pulled apart the starter and cleaned the rust buildup on the inside contacts, still only clicking. I checked my connections and grounds again, still only a clicking out of the solenoid

A quick way to test the motor is to use a good battery and jumper cables. Hook the cables to the battery and then hook the positive cable to the positive post on the pump and then the negative cable to the ground post on the motor. This will bypass everything and just power the motor which should make a squealing sound (it’s not going to pump fluid but should bear down) which if it does then the motor should be good if it does not make a noise then it has an issue. If the motor is bad you can take it to a local electric motor repair shop or call Felling Parts & Service or order online at http://www.store.felling.com, a complete new motor/pump.

It sounds as if the pump is “deadheading”, possibly the valve is not opening on the pump so the fluid is unable to flow. I would check the coil on top of the valve to make sure that it’s still good. If your pump is a power up and power down, you can try swapping the two coils around, if the box then goes up you would know it’s a bad coil. If the box does go up, you will need to swap the coils around again to bring the box back down.

If you have a KTI pump, (this is the same pump that we have used for the past 10 years or so) you can remove the round coil, (this controls the up function) by loosening the nut on top and the two wires. Then swap the round coil with the square coil, (this controls the down function located next to the round coil). After the coil swap is done, you can then lower the box. Note: By continuing to swap the two coils, the trailer can be used until you receive the new square coil that is typically the reason why the box won’t lower. These parts can be purchased from our online parts store http://store.felling.com/

If it’s a KTI pump which we have used the past 10 years or so I would try swapping the round coil and square coil around, the round coil controls the “up” function so it may be just a bad coil. As far as replacing the pump you would disconnect the wires and hoses, then remove the old pump and install the new which should be a fairly simple swap. After the pump swap has been made fill the tank up about half way and work the box up and down which will work the air out of the lines then make sure the tank is filled to the mark on the side of the tank.

I am not familiar with a Fenner pump, I would have thought that it was the coil, but since you already replaced it, I would suggest having a local hydraulic shop take a look at it or depending on their labor rate you may be better off replacing the pump which runs $435.95. This can be purchased online through our parts website http://store.felling.com/

Hi. I have a 2010 7×12 gatormade dump trailer. Its eorked great for me until the other day when at about halfway up, it stopped lifting and started making a horrendous noise. It went back down when I pushed the down button, but wont go back up. Does that sound like its the round coil thats the problem? Is the unusual noise typical in that situation?Good day Jeff,

Typically when the coil is the issue, the pump will do nothing. With the noise that you are hearing, I would look at the cartridge that the coils attach to. It would seem like the pump is trying to pump but it can’t push the oil through. To purchase the parts needed, visit our online store http://store.felling.com/.

I have a u-dump trailer that I have been working the bugs out of. If I raise it the entire amount up sometimes it sticks and will not come down until I apply pressure. It returns by gravity. I have cleaned the vent in the reservoir but have had no luck preventing the sticking when raised 100% high.Hello Shawn,

The solenoid could possibly be stuck open and may need to be replaced. If you are able to disconnect the switch and then put power to the pump, if it does the same thing I would look at the solenoid but if it only does it with the switch in place that would indicate a possible bad switch.

I’m not sure which brand or style of pump you have. However, there should be a coil to control the up and possibly another if it’s power down. If it has two coils, you can swap the two around to see if it lifts which if it does you will need to swap them around to bring the box back down.

Hi, not sure if this question has been asked and I did not read through all the questions and answers: my question is, my cylinder on my dump trailer has what looks like a pressure relief but. I thought it was a damaged nut and decided to change it out and put a solid nut. When I went to lift the box, I noticed it did not lift to its full capacity. I went back to remove the nut and place back the original one and when I did that I was hit in the face with hydraulic oil. I am thinking that the original nut has its reason for having this relief hole, but nonetheless I think it’s damaged. What is the purpose for this type of nut and what is it called and where can I find a replacement?Good morning Jose,

I just purchased a dump trailer with dual cylinders and when I lift the bed it does not come up level. I’ve measured the rams at half stoke and they were both the same. I’m not sure if one is weaker or slower. I haven’t been able to put a load on it to see if it has enough power to lift. Any explanations?Good day Lawson,

I have a 16′ long brimar, a few months ago it would go up but then have a hard time going back down. I gressed the cyliner and seemes to work better. Then shorlty after it stopped going all the way up- it seems as if one of the two cylinders is getting stock first coming down and then going up- it is sticking in the same spot, right at the place where the ‘second’ cylinders comes in nd out.Good day Rene,

i have a Big Tex dump trailer with a Bulcher Hydraulic pump, it is both power up and power down. can i change the down side to free flow down and if so what is the procedure? only want to free flow down to save battery charge time for multiple dumps.Good day, Will

I am not familiar with the Bulcher brand pump however, most pumps will allow for different valving, so the pump becomes gravity down. I would watch the pricing for just the valve vs. a new power up gravity down pump as I have seen that sometimes there is much of a difference between the two so it might be better to just replace the pump. One other thing to consider is a good deep cycle battery, if you don’t already have one on the trailer, we have much better luck with deep cycles than just a regular battery.

I have a 6 yard dump trailer with scissor lift. When it is raised about half way fluid starts leaking from a valve on the underneath side of the cylinder. The higher it gets the more fluid it leaks. Any suggestions?Hello David,

A battery will always discharge on its own, so if its sitting for a long time (a few months over winter something like that) it may be normal however if it’s a shorter period of time then I would look for a draw. The pump could be drawing it down or we have seen a few trailers that because of corrosion issues the taillights are actually powered drawing off of the battery with the trailer disconnected from the tow vehicle.

It looks like the trailer is rated for 4800 payload, however that does need to be evenly distributed. If the load is evenly distributed and under 4800 I would start by making sure that the battery is fully charged and would have the battery load tested to make sure that it’s giving the pump what it needs to operate correctly. If the battery test ok, then you have to look at the pump. I’m not familiar with the capacity of the pump that Big Tex uses, but typically most dump trailers require 3000 psi, so I would confirm (usually a tag on the side of the pump) working psi of that pump and confirm that the pump is putting out that required psi.

I have a 2015 Load Trail dump trailer. I believe it has the KTI hydraulic motor. The issue I’m having is when I lift the trailer it only goes about half way up and the battery dies, I purchased a brand new battery and it’s still doing. Any idea what may be causing my battery to die?Hello Rodrigo,

Before we can answer your question to the best of our ability, we need a bit more information. Is this pump a power up power down style pump or just a power-up gravity down?

Hello, I have a 2017 H&H 22′ Speedloader car hauler trailer and has power up and power down. When I have a load on it like a truck and accelerate the front of the deck starts to lift a few 3-4 inches (has no deck lock on the power tilt model). Could this be a battery issue as well?Hi Walt,

Does the deck come back down right away, does it hold, or does it come down slow? Is this a new trailer and always done this or was it working fine and just started doing this?

One day our 14′ Felling dump trailer didn’t want to lower back down. Sounded like it was stuck…. I tapped the up button a couple times then finally the down started working. Then next day it got stuck again up but this time, after tapping the up then back down a couple times and not moving, it finally blew a line and lowered till it got too low on fluid. Fixing the line now but what would the possible causes be? Is it a pressure issue? It was almost like it was raised to high and stuck. Thanks!Good morning Josh,

Sounds like possibly a bad coil, I would suggest if it acts up again to swap the two coils around that are located on the top of the pump. There is a round shaped coil (up) next to a square coil (down) on the top side of the pump if you raise the box and it will not lower then switch the two coils around. This should lower the box and would indicate that the square coil is bad and would need to be replaced. If you wanted to continue to use the trailer while waiting for a new coil you can still operate the pump you would just need to continue to swap the coils to raise the box and then lower. This is something that we have seen in the past. As far as the blown line I’m not sure the cause of that, the pump and hoses are rated for 3000 psi which is the maximum output of the pump.

Without knowing a brand of the pump there is some gray area but with our pumps, there are two solenoids located on the top of the pump. The round shaped solenoid controls up function and the square-shaped solenoid controls the down function if you swap these two around and the box raises then that solenoid is bad. If you find that you do have a bad solenoid you can continue to use the trailer but will need to swap them around to raise and lower the box until you receive a new solenoid.

I have a Monarch pump. The positive wire melted the post of the battery it got so hot while hosting a load up. I hooked booster cables to bring it the hoist down. The wire got so hot it started melting the casing of the wire. What do you think is the issue?Hello Pat,

I would suggest making sure that your battery is fully charged or if you use the trailer daily I would look at possibly wiring them directly to the charging system off of the truck. We have had a lot of success wiring directly to the truck as this eliminates a lot of issues with just using the single battery system on the trailer.

I have a load trail dump with an kti pump. Everything worked just fine until I left it in the pasture and the cows chewed off all the wires. ( lid broke a while back) . I rewired all the controle box back and now i just get a clicking sound. I dont know if i am missing something, there is a two wire going inside the back from underneath the toung. I am assuming that is the battery charger but not sure.Hello Chris,

Can you confirm the wiring is correct to KTI’s, this has been emailed to you for reference? If so, then I would look at the solenoid, typically we have found when they make a clicking noise they are inoperative.

Before the trailer leaves it is inspected which part of that process is to run the box up and down so I suspect some type of component failure. The first thing I would look at is the remote, using a volt meter you can check to see if you have power going to the switch and then when the button is pushed is it sending power to the pump. If that test out fine then I would look at the coils that are located on the top of the pump, the round shaped coil controls the up function and the square-shaped coil controls the down function. If for example, the box will not raise, you can switch the wires from the round coil to the square coil then try running the box up, if it raises then that would indicate that the round coil is bad and needs to be replaced. This is the same if the box raises but won’t lower, switch the wires around and if it comes back down then this would indicate that the square coil is bad and needs to be replaced.

I have a 12′ dump trailer. It seems to go up and down fine, however, I noticed that recently it was leaking hydraulic fluid around where the box is located in the front of the trailer. It is a power up, power down system. I recently powered up when there was slightly low battery and then powered back down. It seemed to never run out, but I suspect that this possibly could have contributed to the issue. Do you know what the issue could be? Thank you!Hi Nick,

Typically most leaks are caused by a battery with a low charge when the box is coming down the pump can’t keep up with the pressure. This creates excessive pressure causing the oil to blow out of the breather on the tank. You may want to also check that the breather is not plugged with dirt, this can cause excessive pressure too that could result in cracks in the tank.

Felling TrailersI have a KTI Pump. I am having the same issues with the reservoir cap blowing off and fluid spraying everywhere. My battery is new and fully charged and the breather is clean. I have noticed on the remote that I can slightly press the “down” button to lower the bed and the pump motor does not run OR I can fully press the “down” button and the pump motor runs as the bed is lowering. Which is the proper way to press the button? And also any other ideas what could cause the fluid to continually over flow besides an overfilled reservoir, low battery, or dirty breather?Good morning Cody, This is the advice our Service Department has given.

“If you are building pressure and have a fully charged battery I would check and make sure that you are getting the full 12 volt to the pump, if you are not getting the full 12 volts the pump will turn slower and then with the weight of the box will build pressure as you lower it.”

I recently caught the electrical cord under the tire and ripped it in half. I spliced it back together making sure the colored wires matched up. Now when I push up and down I only get a buzzing and no lift or downward motion. Trailer worked great before this happened. Any help would be appreciated.Hello Chris,

If this happens to be on one of our trailers or off of a KTI pump assembly, the following items should work. Depending on the age of the trailer you might not need all three parts, but by replacing all three parts you eliminate any concern of any other damaged areas in the rest of the harness.

Can you confirm that you have 12 volts on the pump side of the solenoid? If so then I would look at the coils. I’m not sure which brand pump Quality uses but there should be two coils on top of the motor (could be square shaped or round shaped), one of the coils controls the up motion and the other controls the down motion. These coils can easily be swapped which is an easy way to see if your “up” coil is bad. If you swap them and the box will raise but now won’t lower than you know that the coil is bad and should be replaced. If you find that this is the problem and need to use the trailer while waiting for the part to arrive you can continue to swap the two coils around to raise and then lower the box. If you are in need of parts feel free to visit us online at https://store.felling.com/

My ol dump truck just clicks when I go to raise the bed.. start the truck drive a bit then it raises sometimes.. shut it off then it clicks again often raises ar times.. the pump is running off the truck battery…helpGood afternoon Bruce,

I have a 6-ton Anderson trailer, it won’t raise it just makes a winding noise. So I first bought a new battery thinking the battery is bad. Still did not raise. Then I drained and pumped out all old hydraulic oil and put in new. It is still just making a winding noise. I’m hoping someone has an answer for me. Please help.

Not sure what kinda trailer or pump I have (no name on pump and bought used with no title) its a 7×14 dual ram. But I had it about 1 foot up when I disconnected the battery to change it out and it went back down. Once I had new battery connected now it barely goes up and falls back down when I let offGood afternoon Justin, Our service dept. is stating it could possibly be a sticky valve, they suggest putting a gauge on the hose to see how much actual pressure the pump is pumping out.

“I’m not sure which brand of pump is on the trailer but some these hydraulic pumps that are used in these heavier applications are very light pumps and as you know sparks are never good. I would suggest either replacing the pump which typically runs about 400 dollars or I would pull the pump and have it bench tested at a local starter/elec. shop.” Scot Brown

Have a small dump truck with a 12 volt hyd pump like on a lot of trailer it acts like it looses prime if you put a little air pressure in tank it will raise but one you stop you have to blow air in it to get to go upGood Morning Clarence, Our Parts and Service Manager has this advise for you. “Is this something that it just started doing? It sounds as if the oil tank isn’t big enough so there isn’t enough oil but this should have been issue since day one so if it just stared doing it I would guess a bad O-ring on the cartridge on the pump.”

Just bought a 2015 Belmont dump trailer, 7×12 gravity down. Not sure on brand of pump, my issue is when I try to load a skid steer with the factory ramps the entire bed lifts to the up into the lift portion, like there is no pressure to the piston. I have an adjustable pressure relief valve that is stock. I have tried every adjustment with no difference except the speed of the gravity down ( that makes me assume the adjuster works). I’ve seen a million guys load skid steers onto dump trailers with out this issue. Any ideas?Good Morning Michael,

“I tried to access Belmont Trailers website to figure out what style pump they use but was unable to open their site. It would help to know the brand pump?

When you are loading the skid loader, is the box all the way down in the transport position or slightly raised? If it’s in the transport position when you are loading I would try raising the box slightly. Depending how far your pivot point is behind the axles and with only being a power up you could be compressing the air that is on the top side of the cylinder which is allowing the box to raise. I would try raising the box some and see it that makes a difference.”

Felling TrailersIt’s labeled, Bucher hydraulics. I’ve tried to load with the bed lifted some to reduce the pitch, also tried in the transport position. Also tried forward and backwards. The pivot point is exactly 24 inches from the center of the rear axle. Does the pressure relief adjustment valve have anything to do with it? I can’t believe I can’t load a machine onto a dump trailer, really embarrassing. Thanks for the replie.Good Morning Mike,

Our parts and service supervisor tried pulling some information from Bucher’s website but was unable, see that they have some distributers in the USA and I would give them a call and see what their thoughts are in regards to this issue. I wouldn’t think that the pressure relief would be an issue but I just don’t know enough about their pumps.

Just bought this older 7×14 1400gvw 10 ton trailer tech the problem I’m having is it’s slow to load and retract or lift and return have to wait for the battery to catch up on its trickle charge it drains the battery have to do this a few time going up and same coming down. I made a mistake and forgot the cylinder lock in place then power it down think it pushed the breather cap on the filler cap to blow apart and oil to shoot out. (after id taken it up and got the lockout then when I lowered it is shot a liter of oil out but res didn’t look low, now pump motor will go so far and stall out draining battery voltage and have to wait for the voltage to build up this is the same both ways it is single cylinder scissor lift any ideas I’m thinking it is like fighting against its self hydraulically did a battery drain test on battery it bounces back pretty fast and this is empty.Hello Tom,

We suggest to perform an amp test and see how many amps the pump os drawing. If it’s draining a good battery that quickly you may need to replace or rebuild the motor.

What is the recommended hydraulic oil for a 21013 Felling FT-14DT Hydraulic Dump Trailer? Thanks,Good Morning, We recommend using AFT – Automatic Transmission Fluid for your FT-14DT.

I have a big tex 25du dump trailer the hydraulic pump is not working, where can I buy a new pump? And how do I know the part number or the right pump? Double action, single action? 10 quarts or 15 or 20 quart. any help would be appreciatedGood Afternoon, I’m not sure what brand pump that Big Tex uses, I would recommend A KTI DC4309 which we stock $435.95.

ThanksGood Afternoon Greg, We use Dexron (automatic transmission fluid) in the hydraulic systems for dump trailers and far as a hourly maintenance schedule, KTI doesn’t have one. They recommend that if the oil condition changes such as a brownish color, water appearing in the tank or visual dirt the oil should be changed. Hope this helps you, if you have any other questions feel free to contact our parts and service dept. at 1-866-335-5464.

Dump trailer won’t raise. Pump starts sounds normal for 2 secs then changes to a high pitch noise, Nothing happens during this time. Good battery and fluid. My daughter had the remote switch with the down button pushed while it was already down, it was making a weird noise before I could remove her from the switch. Does anybody have any suggestions?Good Afternoon Ernie,

On top of the pump (if it’s a Felling) there are a square and round coil, I would remove those coils and swap them. If the round coil (up) is bad it should raise, if it does then we know the coil is bad.

my bed is stick in the up position I have removed the hydraulic hose still cant get bed to come down s this the house or the cylinderGood Morning Fred,

I have a EZ dumper with power up and power down. The up button raises and the down button is also raising the bed? This just started today. can’t get it to come downGood morning Chuck,

If it’s a KTI pump? There are two ports, the A port (top) usually goes to the bottom of the cylinder and the B port goes to the top of the cylinder. Either way will work it just may not match the up/down buttons.

If it’s a Felling/KTI brand pump, you can swap the square coil (down) with the round coil (up) and see if it comes down. If it then works, the coil will need to be replaced.

is it possible to put a 14 gvw pump on 10gvw dump trailer im having issues with not lifting it and killing the battery after 4 or 5 dumpsGood Morning Danny,

I have a Big Tex 14LP trailer. It is less than two weeks old. I have about 2 yards of soil and tree debris on the trailer and it will not dump. The battery is fully charged. The hydraulic lines appear to be unobstructed. When I press up the scissor hydraulic presses mid bed and there is minor movement. The end closest to the truck does not move at all.

We would suggest calling Big Tex to find out with the hydraulic pressure should be and then check the pump with a gauge to make sure the pump is putting out the correct pressure.

I have a load trailer and like some of these threads the trailer will not lower. When I press the down button it will go in the upward direction. I am able to swap around the round coil and square coil to get the trailer to lower. I have replaced the square coil and it still will not lower but will go up. I have noticed that if I take the new square coil off and only use the round coil that there is a different noise and more power coming from the motor. What is next step after you have swapped the square coil with a new one and the trailer is still not performing as it should?Good afternoon Andrew,

Typically the round coil is up and the square is down, if by switching these around the pump will work this is a sign that the coil is bad. If replacing the coil hasn’t fixed it, I would look at that cartridge.

If it’s a KTI brand pump?? We most likely depending on the pump, if it’s not a KTI then possibly Bailey Hydraulics. You can call our Parts and Service Dept. at 1-866-335-5464 for more detailed information.

I have a 10′ Moritz Commercial dump trailer I believe its power up / gravity down (pump has 1 round coil only) I was doing my pre-winter maintenance and now it won’t come Back down ??? Help ???

I have a problem with my trailer, I replaced the hydraulic pump because it only went up halfway, I installed the new one and I have the same problem. it reaches the middle of the road and does not go up.Good Evening Christopher,

Possibly the cylinder has an internal leak that the oil leak through the piston, if there is a local hydraulic vendor they could possibly check it. We have found that sometimes the price of a new cylinder is about the same price or cheaper than repairing which is something that you should look at.

I have a 20 foot Sure Pull dump trailer. It was lifting the other day but now won’t budge while empty. The pump is running with a new fully charged battery, the solenoids appear to be opening the valves (I removed the valves and actuated them with the solenoid and they click, and sound like they’re opening). I even removed the hose to the bottom of the hydraulic piston and it’s pumping fluid to the piston. Of course I don’t know the pressure.

I wouldn’t mind buying a whole new pump and reservoir (slightly larger in fluid capacity than I have now) but I don’t know if the pump is the problem.

You should put a gauge on the pump to verify that it’s putting out adequate pressure (generally 3000 psi), if you are getting pressure to the cylinder then I would guess you have an internal issue in the hydraulic cylinder.

HansUnfortunately, we do not, you will need to go to an auto parts store and purchase the parts to build one or find a hydraulic shop and have them test it.

We have a sure trac dual cylinder dump trailer. One cylinder is working and the other side is not moving. There were no problems on the previous load a couple hours earlier.

If loaded, will the box hold in the raised (or somewhat raised) without lowering down on its own? There could be an internal leak inside the cylinder or the valve body on the pump allowing oil to bypass however you should notice the box coming down as it won’t hold the pressure.

I bought a used trailer and I changed the pump new and the battery, but the problem is that it won’t lift up the dirt load. We just changed the the motor but didn’t change any hoses.Good afternoon Rolando,

I have a loadstar dump trailer, when you hit the up button the solenoid clicks but will not engage the pump. Trying to figure out if it needs a new solenoid.Good afternoon Carl,

Hello. I have a ’19 Lamar dump trailer that is stuck in the dump position. KTI pump. Remote is making good contact. Both coils check at 5 Ohms. I have swapped the round coil(up) with the square coil (down) and bed still will not lower.Good morning Casey,

I don’t know Load King uses for pumps or the capacity, you could check with the manufacture to get the specs of the pump and then see if there is a lager GPM (gallons per minute) pump available.

I am working on a single.phase dump trailer it goes up but not down. I put a new coil and solenoid on its new remote to not sure what else to do.Good morning Matthew,

Hello I have a Monarch single acting pump on a dump trailer my problem is it doesn’t stay up it looses pressure can you please help.Good morning Eric,

Could be a bad O-ring in the valve body of the pump or the hydraulic cylinder, you would need to pull them apart to inspect the O-rings which at that point I would just replace them.

Typically we see the fluid come out of the breather if the battery power is low, the battery power only allows the motor to barely turn, and then the weight of the box builds pressure up in the system. When the pressure builds too high it pushes the oil out of the breather.

If the battery is fully charged, then I would look for a restriction in the pump, this would also cause the pressure to build and could lead to the oil being pushed out.

Is the battery low? If the battery is low and you are lowering the box, the pump cannot turn fast enough and the weight of the box will build pressure in the system. If there is enough pressure in the system, the oil will come out of the breather/oil fill cap.

My pre 2003 Bri-Mar dump trailer will not lift. When I press the up switch, I get a click. Tried jumping the solenoid and still does not lift. I removed and replaced the ground wire from the battery to the box/frame and still does not lift. Then I placed jumper cables from the negative terminal to the steel hydaulic fittings attached to the pump body and low and behold, the pump worked. So obviously my pump is not grounded properly. I do have a ground lead to the body of the solenoid, but that does not touch the pump body. The solenoid is supported by a coper bracket attached to the positive lead on the pump and solenoid and is suspended over the pump body. I am not sure how the pump should be grounded. Suggestions?Hello Brian,

Hello, I have a dump trailer with a kti hydraulic pump power up gravity down and my issue is that the ram will not extend all the way out. It struggles to extend when its about 90% extended. I have no leaks and a fully charged battery. Any way to fix this? Thank you.Good Morning Anthony,

There could be a decrease in pressure, I would check the pressure at the pump with a gauge. Typically these pumps should put out about 3,000 psi at the pump.

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If the information you are looking for is not on this page, we suggest you contact the technical support of one of the US"s larger hydraulic fluid producers, such as Shell Global. Their technical support phone

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A tractor is an engineering vehicle specifically designed to deliver a high tractive effort (or torque) at slow speeds, for the purposes of hauling a trailer or machinery such as that used in agriculture, mining or construction. Most commonly, the term is used to describe a farm vehicle that provides the power and traction to mechanize agricultural tasks, especially (and originally) tillage, and now many more. Agricultural implements may be towed behind or mounted on the tractor, and the tractor may also provide a source of power if the implement is mechanised.

The first powered farm implements in the early 19th century were portable engines – steam engines on wheels that could be used to drive mechanical farm machinery by way of a flexible belt. Richard Trevithick designed the first "semi-portable" stationary steam engine for agricultural use, known as a "barn engine" in 1812, and it was used to drive a corn threshing machine.William Tuxford of Boston, Lincolnshire who started manufacture of an engine built around a locomotive-style boiler with horizontal smoke tubes. A large flywheel was mounted on the crankshaft, and a stout leather belt was used to transfer the drive to the equipment being driven. In the 1850s, John Fowler used a Clayton & Shuttleworth portable engine to drive apparatus in the first public demonstrations of the application of cable haulage to cultivation.

The first half of the 1860s was a period of great experimentation but by the end of the decade the standard form of the traction engine had evolved and changed little over the next sixty years. It was widely adopted for agricultural use. The first tractors were steam-powered plowing engines. They were used in pairs, placed on either side of a field to haul a plow back and forth between them using a wire cable. In Britain Mann"s and Garrett developed steam tractors for direct ploughing, but the heavy, wet soil of England meant that these designs were less economical than a team of horses. In the United States, where soil conditions permitted, steam tractors were used to direct-haul plows. Steam-powered agricultural engines remained in use well into the 20th century until reliable internal combustion engines had been developed.

The first gasoline powered tractors were built in Illinois, by John Charter combining single cylinder Otto engines with a Rumley Steam engine chasis, in 1889.John Froelich built a gasoline-powered tractor in Clayton County, Iowa, US.Waterloo Gasoline Engine Company and invested all of his assets. The venture was very unsuccessful, and by 1895 all was lost and he went out of business.

Richard Hornsby & Sons are credited with producing and selling the first oil-engined tractor in Britain, invented by Herbert Akroyd Stuart. The Hornsby-Akroyd Patent Safety Oil Traction Engine was made in 1896 with a 20 hp (15 kW) engine. In 1897, it was bought by Mr. Locke-King, the first recorded British tractor sale. That year, it won a Silver Medal from the Royal Agricultural Society of England. It later returned to the factory for a caterpillar track fitting.

The first commercially successful light-weight petrol-powered general purpose tractor was built by Dan Albone, a British inventor in 1901.Selwyn Edge, Charles Jarrott, John Hewitt and Lord Willoughby. He called his machine the Ivel Agricultural Motor; the word "tractor" came into common use after Hart-Parr created it. The Ivel Agricultural Motor was light, powerful and compact. It had one front wheel, with a solid rubber tyre, and two large rear wheels like a modern tractor. The engine used water cooling, utilizing the thermo-syphon effect. It had one forward and one reverse gear. A pulley wheel on the left hand side allowed it to be used as a stationary engine, driving a wide range of agricultural machinery. The 1903 sale price was £300. His tractor won a medal at the Royal Agricultural Show, in 1903 and 1904. About 500 were built, and many were exported all over the world.Coventry. After 1906, French Aster engines were used.

While unpopular at first, these gasoline-powered machines began to catch on in the 1910s, when they became smaller and more affordable.Henry Ford introduced the Fordson, a wildly popular mass-produced tractor, in 1917. They were built in the U.S., Ireland, England and Russia, and by 1923, Fordson had 77% of the U.S. market. The Fordson dispensed with a frame, using the strength of the engine block to hold the machine together. By the 1920s, tractors with gasoline-powered internal combustion engines had become the norm.

The first three-point hitches were experimented with in 1917. After Harry Ferguson applied for a British patent for his three-point hitch in 1926, they became popular. A three-point attachment of the implement to the tractor is the simplest and the only statically determinate way of joining two bodies in engineering. The Ferguson-Brown Company produced the Model A Ferguson-Brown tractor with a Ferguson-designed hydraulic hitch. In 1938 Ferguson entered into a collaboration with Henry Ford to produce the Ford-Ferguson 9N tractor. The three-point hitch soon became the favorite hitch attachment system among farmers around the world. This tractor model also included a rear Power Take Off (PTO) shaft that could be used to power three point hitch mounted implements such as sickle-bar mowers.

Four-wheel drive tractors began to appear in the 1960s. Some four-wheel drive tractors have the standard "two large, two small" configuration typical of smaller tractors, while some have four large, powered wheels. The larger tractors are typically an articulated, center-hinged design steered by hydraulic cylinders that move the forward power unit while the trailing unit is not steered separately.

In the early 21st century, articulated or non-articulated, steerable multitrack tractors have largely supplanted the Caterpillar type for farm use. Larger types of modern farm tractors include articulated four-wheel or eight-wheel drive units with one or two power units which are hinged in the middle and steered by hydraulic clutches or pumps. A relatively recent development is the replacement of wheels or steel crawler-type tracks with flexible, steel-reinforced rubber tracks, usually powered by hydrostatic or completely hydraulic driving mechanisms. The configuration of these tractors bears little resemblance to the classic farm tractor design.

Since the turn of the 20th century, internal combustion engines have been the power source of choice. Between 1900 and 1960, gasoline was the predominant fuel, with kerosene (the Rumely Oil Pull was the most notable of this kind)being a common alternative. Generally, one engine could burn any of those, although cold starting was easiest on gasoline. Often, a small auxiliary fuel tank was available to hold gasoline for cold starting and warm-up, while the main fuel tank held whatever fuel was most convenient or least expensive for the particular farmer. In the United Kingdom, a gasoline-kerosene engine is known as a petrol-paraffin engine.

Dieselisation gained momentum starting in the 1960s, and modern farm tractors usually employ diesel engines, which range in power output from 18 to 575 horsepower (15 to 480 kW). Size and output are dependent on application, with smaller tractors used for lawn mowing, landscaping, orchard work, and truck farming, and larger tractors for vast fields of wheat, corn, soy, and other bulk crops.

Liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) or propane also have been used as tractor fuels, but require special pressurized fuel tanks and filling equipment and produced less power, so are less prevalent in most markets.

Prototype battery powered electric tractors are being developed by a German company, Fendt, and by two US companies, Solectrac and Monarch Tractor.John Deere"s protoype electric tractor is a plug-in, powered by an electrical cable.Kubota is prototyping an autonomous electric tractor.

Most older farm tractors use a manual transmission with several gear ratios, typically three to six, sometimes multiplied into two or three ranges. This arrangement provides a set of discrete ratios that, combined with the varying of the throttle, allow final-drive speeds from less than one up to about 25 miles per hour (40 km/h), with the lower speeds used for working the land and the highest speed used on the road.

Older tractors usually have unsynchronized transmission designs, which often require the operator to engage the clutch to shift between gears. This mode of use is inherently unsuited to some of the work tractors do, and has been circumvented in various ways over the years. For existing unsynchronized tractors, the methods of circumvention are double clutching or power-shifting, both of which require the operator to rely on skill to speed-match the gears while shifting, and are undesirable from a risk-mitigation standpoint because of what can go wrong if the operator makes a mistake – transmission damage is possible, and loss of vehicle control can occur if the tractor is towing a heavy load either uphill or downhill – something that tractors often do. Therefore, operator"s manuals for most of these tractors state one must always stop the tractor before shifting.

In newer designs, unsynchronized transmission designs were replaced with synchronization or with continuously variable transmissions (CVTs). Either a synchronized manual transmission with enough available gear ratios (often achieved with dual ranges, high and low) or a CVT allow the engine speed to be matched to the desired final-drive speed, while keeping engine speed within the appropriate speed (as measured in rotations per minute or rpm) range for power generation (the working range) (whereas throttling back to achieve the desired final-drive speed is a trade-off that leaves the working range). The problems, solutions, and developments described here also describe the history of transmission evolution in semi-trailer trucks. The biggest difference is fleet turnover; whereas most of the old road tractors have long since been scrapped, many of the old farm tractors are still in use. Therefore, old transmission design and operation is primarily just of historical interest in trucking, whereas in farming it still often affects daily life.

The power produced by the engine must be transmitted to the implement or equipment to do the actual work intended for the equipment. This may be accomplished via a drawbar or hitch system if the implement is to be towed or otherwise pulled through the tractive power of the engine, or via a pulley or power takeoff system if the implement is stationary, or a combination of the two.

The drawbar system was virtually the exclusive method of attaching implements (other than direct attachment to the tractor) before Harry Ferguson developed the three-point hitch.hydraulically with a control lever. The equipment attached to the three-point hitch is usually completely supported by the tractor. Another way to attach an implement is via a quick hitch, which is attached to the three-point hitch. This enables a single person to attach an implement quicker and put the person in less danger when attaching the implement.

The three-point hitch revolutionized farm tractors and their implements. While the Ferguson system was still under patent, other manufacturers developed new hitching systems to try to fend off some of Ferguson"s competitive advantage. For example, International Harvester"s Farmall tractors gained a two-point "Fast Hitch", and John Deere had a power lift that was somewhat similar to the more flexible Ferguson invention. Once the patent protection expired on the three-point hitch, it became an industry standard.

Almost every tractor today features Ferguson"s three-point linkage or a derivative of it. This hitch allows for easy attachment and detachment of implements while allowing the implement to function as a part of the tractor, almost as if it were attached by a fixed mount. Previously, when the implement hit an obstacle, the towing link broke or the tractor flipped over. Ferguson"s idea was to combine a connection via two lower and one upper lift arms that were connected to a hydraulic lifting ram. The ram was, in turn, connected to the upper of the three links so the increased drag (as when a plough hits a rock) caused the hydraulics to lift the implement until the obstacle was passed.

In addition to towing an implement or supplying tractive power through the wheels, most tractors have a means to transfer power to another machine such as a baler, swather, or mower. Unless it functions solely by pulling it through or over the ground, a towed implement needs its own power source (such as a baler or combine with a separate engine) or else a means of transmitting power from the tractor to the mechanical operations of the equipment.

Early tractors used belts or cables wrapped around the flywheel or a separate belt pulley to power stationary equipment, such as a threshing machine, buzz saw, silage blower, or stationary baler. In most cases, it was impractical for the tractor and equipment to move with a flexible belt or cable between them, so this system required the tractor to remain in one location, with the work brought to the equipment, or the tractor to be relocated at each turn and the power set-up reapplied (as in cable-drawn plowing systems used in early steam tractor operations).

Modern tractors use a power take-off (PTO) shaft to provide rotary power to machinery that may be stationary or pulled. The PTO shaft generally is at the rear of the tractor, and can be connected to an implement that is either towed by a drawbar or a three-point hitch. This eliminates the need for a separate, implement-mounted power source, which is almost never seen in modern farm equipment. It is also optional to get a front PTO as well when buying a new tractor.

Virtually all modern tractors can also provide external hydraulic fluid and electrical power to the equipment they are towing, either by hoses or wires.

Some modern farm tractors retain a traditional manual transmission; increasingly they have hydraulically driven powershift transmissions and CVT, which vastly simplify operation.

Those with powershift transmissions have identical pedal arrangements on the floor for the operator to actuate, replacing a clutch pedal on the far left with an inching pedal that cuts off hydraulic flow to the clutches. Twinned brake pedals - one each for left and right side wheels- are placed together on the right side. Some have a pedal for a foot throttle on the far right. Unlike automobiles, throttle speed can also be controlled by a hand-operated lever ("hand throttle"), which may be set to a fixed position. This helps provide a constant speed in field work. It also helps provide continuous power for stationary tractors that are operating an implement by PTO shaft or axle driven belt. The foot throttle gives the operator more automobile-like control over the speed of a mobile tractor in any operation.

Some modern tractors also have (or offer as optional equipment) a button on the gear stick for controlling the clutch, in addition to the standard pedal, allowing for gear changes and the tractor to be brought to a stop without using the foot pedal to engage the clutch. Others have a button for temporarily increasing throttle speed to improve hydraulic flow to implements, such as a front end loader bucket.

The external hydraulics also originally had levers, but now are often replaced with some form of electrical switch; the same is true for the power take-off shaft.

The most common use of the term "tractor" is for the vehicles used on farms. The farm tractor is used for pulling or pushing agricultural machinery or trailers, for plowing, tilling, disking, harrowing, planting, and similar tasks.

Some farm-type tractors are found elsewhere than on farms: with large universities" gardening departments, in public parks, or for highway workman use with blowtorch cylinders strapped to the sides and a pneumatic drill air compressor permanently fastened over the power take-off. These are often fitted with grass (turf) tyres which are less damaging to soft surfaces than agricultural tires.

Space technology has been incorporated into agriculture in the form of GPS devices, and robust on-board computers installed as optional features on farm tractors. These technologies are used in modern, precision farming techniques. The spin-offs from the space race have actually facilitated automation in plowing and the use of autosteer systems (drone on tractors that are manned but only steered at the end of a row), the idea being to neither overlap and use more fuel nor leave streaks when performing jobs such as cultivating. Several tractor companies have also been working on producing a driverless tractor.

The durability and engine power of tractors made them very suitable for engineering tasks. Tractors can be fitted with engineering tools such as dozer blades, buckets, hoes, rippers, etc. The most common attachments for the front of a tractor are dozer blades or buckets. When attached to engineering tools, the tractor is called an engineering vehicle.

A bulldozer is a track-type tractor with a blade attached in the front and a rope-winch behind. Bulldozers are very powerful tractors and have excellent ground-hold, as their main tasks are to push or drag.

Bulldozers have been further modified over time to evolve into new machines which are capable of working in ways that the original bulldozer can not. One example is that loader tractors were created by removing the blade and substituting a large volume bucket and hydraulic arms which can raise and lower the bucket, thus making it useful for scooping up earth, rock and similar loose material to load it into trucks.

A front-loader or loader is a tractor with an engineering tool which consists of two hydraulic powered arms on either side of the front engine compartment and a tilting implement. This is usually a wide-open box called a bucket, but other common attachments are a pallet fork and a bale grappler.

Other modifications to the original bulldozer include making the machine smaller to let it operate in small work areas where movement is limited. Also, tiny wheeled loaders, officially called skid-steer loaders, but nicknamed "Bobcat" after the original manufacturer, are particularly suited for small excavation projects in confined areas.

Backhoe-loaders are very common and can be used for a wide variety of tasks: construction, small demolitions, light transportation of building materials, powering building equipment, digging holes, loading trucks, breaking asphalt and paving roads. Some buckets have retractable bottoms, enabling them to empty their loads more quickly and efficiently. Buckets with retractable bottoms are also often used for grading and scratching off sand. The front assembly may be a removable attachment or permanently mounted. Often the bucket can be replaced with other devices or tools.

A compact utility tractor (CUT) is a smaller version of an agricultural tractor, but designed primarily for landscaping and estate management tasks, rather than for planting and harvesting on a commercial scale. Typical CUTs range from 20–50 hp (15–37 kW) with available power take-off (PTO) power ranging from 15–45 hp (11–34 kW). CUTs are often equipped with both a mid-mounted and a standard rear PTO, especially those below 40 hp (30 kW). The mid-mount PTO shaft typically rotates at/near 2000 rpm and is typically used to power mid-mount finish mowers, front-mounted snow blowers or front-mounted rotary brooms. The rear PTO is standardized at 540 rpm for the North American markets, but in some parts of the world, a dual 540/1000 rpm PTO is standard, and implements are available for either standard in those markets.

One of the most common attachment for a CUT is the front-end loader or FEL. Like the larger agricultural tractors, a CUT will have an adjustable, hydraulically controlled three-point hitch. Typically, a CUT will have four-wheel drive, or more correctly four-wheel assist. Modern CUTs often feature hydrostatic transmissions, but many variants of gear-drive transmissions are also offered from low priced, simple gear transmissions to synchronized transmissions to advanced glide-shift transmissions. All modern CUTs feature government-mandated roll over protection structures just like agricultural tractors. The most well-known brands in North America include Kubota, John Deere Tractor, New Holland Ag, Case-Farmall and Massey Ferguson. Although less common, compact backhoes are often attached to compact utility tractors.

Compact utility tractors require special, smaller implements than full-sized agricultural tractors. Very common implements include the box blade, the grader blade, the landscape rake, the post hole digger (or post hole auger), the rotary cutter (slasher or a brush hog), a mid- or rear-mount finish mower, a broadcast seeder, a subsoiler and the rototiller (rotary tiller). In northern climates, a rear-mounted snow blower is very common; some smaller CUT models are available with front-mounted snow blowers powered by mid-PTO shafts. Implement brands outnumber tractor brands, so CUT owners have a wide selection of implements.

Canadian agricultural equipment manufacturer Versatile makes row-crop tractors that are 265 to 365 horsepower (198 to 272 kW); powered by an 8.9 liter Cummins Diesel engine.

Garden tractors, sometimes called lawn tractors, are small, l