power up and down hydraulic pump pricelist
The only complaint I have was with the packaging for shipment. One of the main bolts was missing. It appears that the mounting bolts and washers are installed then hand tightened. In my box, the bolt was missing but the 2 washers and nut were there. Another nut and washer had come off of a second bolt. The box was in pretty bad shape when it arrived, and I"m sure that missing bolt escaped that way. I blame UPS, not PJ. But nonetheless, I was missing a bolt. It might be a better practice for future shipments to place all hardware in a sealed bag and attach that bag to the bracket. Preferably with some shrink or Saran type wrap. But that"s just my suggestion.
The hydraulic pump is designed to be mounted horizontally or vertically – sight glass and dip stick can be switched on the round steel tank depending on the mounting direction of the pump to facilitate proper use. Dual location oil drain plugs are in easy to access positions regardless of pump orientation.
12-volt DC, 2 kW, 200-amp pump with sealed solenoid connections, to eliminate potential corrosion, produces an adjustable pressure up to 3200 PSI. 20-foot-long detachable pendant control has a magnetic base to easily attach to any metal location. Wires are protected with an all-weather jacket.
Diamond C offers an array of hydraulic pump combinations and configurations depending on the model and options you select. Diamond C uses only KTI brand hydraulic pumps.
The standard hydraulic pump used on all Diamond C dump, power tilt, and HYDRAULIC DOVETAIL units is a power up/power down electric over hydraulic pump. This pump is a circulatory pump constantly cycling fluid through the system and the cylinder attached only retains a smaller amount of fluid in the reservoir at any given time. It is controlled by a corded two-button remote.
In recent years the 3-way power unit option has made a big splash into the DUMP TRAILER market. This power unit is much like the standard power up/power down pump previously mentioned, but with one added feature – the third function is a gravity down valve in the pump allowing the user to lower the bed of their dump trailer without engaging the pump motor, therefore using less energy and preserving battery life which can be crucial during a long days work.
Additionally, a 4 function power unit is standard when certain options are selected in conjunction, such as a dump trailer with HYDRAULIC JACKS. The user needs the ability to power two separate systems with one pump. This can be done in power up, power down/power up, power down OR power up, power down/power up, gravity down scenarios.
VEVOR is a leading brand that specializes in equipment and tools. Along with thousands of motivated employees, VEVOR is dedicated to providing our customers with tough equipment & tools at incredibly low prices. Today, VEVOR has occupied markets of more than 200 countries with 10 million plus global members.
VEVOR is a leading brand that specializes in equipment and tools. Along with thousands of motivated employees, VEVOR is dedicated to providing our customers with tough equipment & tools at incredibly low prices. Today, VEVOR has occupied markets of more than 200 countries with 10 million plus global members.
This hydraulic pump is a single-acting power unit for power up and gravity down. It has an 8-quart sturdy metal reservoir and is designed with a 12V DC motor that can provide strong power for hydraulic systems like dump trailers, forklifts, lifting platforms, etc.
Please Note: All of our hydraulic pumps come with an M18*1.5 connector and an additional SAE6 (9/16") connector, which can be replaced according to your actual needs.
This single-acting hydraulic power unit has a 12V DC motor (Power:0.37-5.5kw) and a 8-quart metal reservoir; it has SAE#6 ports with 3200 PSI max relief setting on A and 1500 PSI on B port. The flow rate is 2GPM. Rated speed: 2850 r/min.
Our hydraulic electric pump has been fully assembled. It comes with a hand-held remote control and 1 additional SAE#6 connector for replacement. The whole power unit is easy to wire and easy to operate.
With the powerful 12V DC electric motor, our hydraulic pump for dump trailers can start rapidly and provide quick oil output. In addition, it can provide strong power that will lift heavy objects in a short period.
You can rely on the quality of this electric hydraulic pump as it is made of special-treated sturdy metal, and the whole structure has been reinforced. It is also equipped with a powerful electric motor that you can use as often as you like.
All of our 12-volt hydraulic power units have been pre-assembled before delivery, and we provide instructions for operation so that you can install and use the hydraulic pump easily. Horizontal mount is recommended.
As a great power unit, this hydraulic pump can be used for many things, such as truck tailgate lift, RV leveling, scissor lift, dump trailers, lift truck, snowplow, aerial platform, road signs, material handling, wheelchair lifts, etc.
I had no idea a leak with the hydraulic system could simply be caused by the battery not being fully charged. I guess it makes sense, if the battery isn’t charged enough to support the press, then the pressure will build till the oil gets pushed out. I will have to tell my friend who has a dump trailer about this so he can keep it running smoothly. Thank you for the information!I have a trailer the battery seems is sufficiently charge but when I try to lift it the pump will not run,any idea of what the problem could be?Good Morning Jose,
The pump should have a relay mounted on the outside of the motor. I would try jumping that by taking a wire and touching both large terminals. This will bypass the relay which if the pump works then the relay will need to be replaced.
my trailer will not raise and I’m have a lot of oil coming out of the rear in of the cylinder. I did notice that I had a low battery at the time. What is going on here ?Hello Dennis,
The other thing to watch is if the battery is low and you are lowering the box down, the pump is turning so slow that with the weight of the box pushing down on the pump it creates pressure, which typically the oil will spray out of the tank fill cap which is also the breather. But if the breather is plugged it looks for a spot to relieve the pressure, sometimes I have seen it actually crack the plastic tank.
Felling TrailersI have a dump trailer it raises and lowers just fine but when it’s all the way up it leaks down slowly what is the cause for this and how much would you charge me to get it fixedHello Clark, It could be a hydraulic cylinder or even bad o-rings in on the valve body. If you have more info we could troubleshoot it a bit more for you.
My dump trailer is sending power to both up & down solenoids at the same time…. brand new less then 10 dumps on pump – beyond frustrating can you all help me?
Can I connect my trailer to my trucks charging system with a splice of the large power wire that power my electric hydraulic plow? Since I would never be using them at the same time I figured this would solve the constantly read or under powered battery problems. If I can splice this should I remove the battery in the trailer or connect it together with it?Hi Eric,
i have a 10 ez dump trailer and sometimes it will dump just fine and other times it will not it puts presure on it but will not dump. it was working just fine the other day & the next day it was setting at the same place & in would noty dumpHello Tom,
Can you give advise? My dump trailer very slowly lowers if I leave it up for any length of time. The battery was low, but I have since fully charged it, but it is still lowering. The rate of lower is about 1/2″ in an 8 hour period. I see no leaks of any kind? What could it be? ThanksHello Kevin,
In reply to your question on your hydraulic dump trailer, I suspect that you may have an internal leak in your hydraulic cylinder or in the pump both of these would allow the oil to pass through with not external leak.
Felling Parts & Service TeamMine goes up just fine but powers down at about 1/2 speed, it sounds like gobs of air is coming from somewhere when I lower it, everything is tight,Hello Jeremy,
Assuming that the battery has a good charge, I would then pull the valve and check the O-ring condition. The square coil on top of the pump controls the down function, you can remove the coil and then the valve will turn out of the housing. Something to keep in mind is that if the battery has a low charge and you lower the box this can cause pressure in the system because of the weight of the box and a pump that is barely turning the system will build pressure and usually shoots oil out of the vent cap.
Felling TrailersI have a dump trailer (my first), and the battery is located underneath and is dead. The battery is in a case, so how do I raise the dump enough to either charge the battery or replace?
Hi, I have a homesteader dump trailer. It has been sitting for a year or so before it was given to me. I put a set of cables from my diesel to the battery because it was dead and wanted to see what it would do. When I hit the up or down button on the the controle the pump motor will run and I can hear what I believe to be the solenoid click, but all that happens is the body will shift a very small amount and that’s it. What could be the issue?Hello Jeff,
Felling Parts & Service TeamThanks for. The great tips on your web site my dump trailer had a bad ground from the solenoid to the frame on the up side.Installed new remote for dump trailer, just keeps on clicking.
Tested battey have13v, tested start solenoid wire while pressing remote in up position, had 12-13v, tested lowering valve coil wire while pressing down button, had 12-13v.
I have a big tex 7×14 dump trailer. It just started giving me problems. It dumps fine but keeps freezing up on the way down like it’s stuck but if I go up and down with the remote it will finally come downHello Jason,
I have A 5 ton dump trailer, when I lift to dump it works fine but when I bring it down. and it gets to the last cylinder it starts shaking and vibrating while coming down. still comes down but it is very rough and noisy.Hello Jason,
My trailer lifts up and lowers when it’s empty. But, when it has a load, it will not lift. Any suggestions to help troubleshoot would be great. Thanks.Good afternoon Jeff,
Assuming that this just started I would suspect that the pressure relief valve may be inoperable, and may need to be replaced. To check the valve you will need to hook a pressure gauge to the pump to check the actual pressure which should be 3000 psi. If parts are needed we do have an online parts store, see the following page link to our Hydraulic Dump Trailers http://store.felling.com/dump-series/
Did you replaced 1 line or 2? If you replaced two lines it is possible that you hooked them up backwards, but if you only replaced the one, then I would put a pressure gauge on it to see what the pump is putting out. Assuming that this issue just started, it could be the pressure relief valve or could be a low or bad batter. The longer the pump runs the hotter it gets, so if its just barely lifting and you hold the button down the motor can get real hot.
My 14′ dump trailer just buzzes when I push up or down it did this often and I would wiggle the solenoid and it would start working the ground had got so hot over heavy use it melted off the plastic covering it now it is just bare wire and it got stuck in up position so I swapped the round and square up down and got it down when I was going to put a new up part on it would not work at all only buzz even when moving the solenoid and ground do you think it could be the ground solenoid or connection of ground to solenoid or possibly something elseGood morning Michael,
I suspect that it may be the relay, if you jump between the two studs on the relay with a wire and then try it, if it works then the relay will need to be replaced.If you need replacement parts, we do have an online parts store, see the following page link to our Hydraulic Dump Trailers http://store.felling.com/dump-series/
My trailer spilt all the oil when I tried bring it back down the battery was poor is there something I have to do before putting in more oil???Good morning Mac,
If the battery is low and you lower the box it will build pressure and spray out the breather. You will need to re-fill the tank to the mark on the reservoir tank with automatic transmission fluid.
My dump trailer lifts fine, even with a full battery it over flows the tank on the way down . If I lift it again it doesn’t have enough fluid to go all the way up. It’s a dual action system.Good morning Matt,
My trailer will lift, but will not hold in the “up” position. It bleeds back down rather quickly, basically like it’s not holding the pressure. It is not a telescopic cylinder. Could this be due to a low battery? ThanksHello Mitchell,
This should not be a battery issue, but without knowing what brand of pump system is on the trailer, it is tough to be sure due to the fact that each manufacturer uses different set-ups. The first thing I would check is to make sure that your oil level is at the recommended running level. Secondly, check all hoses and fittings to make sure they are all tight and that we do not have any leaks in the systems which would allow for oil to leak out. Third, check and see if there might be a backflow/check valve inline that might be bad and allowing oil to flow back through the system. If all of these scenarios look good, you might have to look more into pump issues.
Felling Trailers Parts & ServiceMine does same thing it wont stay up…no leaksGood Afternoon Cody, A couple of questions and I can pass this on to our service department for there advice. What is the brand of trailer. Also what is the brand of the pump that is installed on your dump trailer.
I have a farm built, dual scissor ram, single pump system. Only one scissor system will work at a time. As the load shifts or if I disable one side the other scissor system works like a champ. How do get both sides to work in unison? Do I need some sort of priority flow control valve installed? If so where in the system and what type do I need? 14′ trailer. My system is a 5gal reservoir tank. It supplies dual 5in D rams(33″L) w/2in D rods each. HPU by Bailey 309-235A DSA1S1602S20H-25 12V [email protected] SGL ACT w/20ft remote. Pwr up/gravity down. Thanks, ChrisGood morning Chris,
If it’s a Felling trailer you can swap the two coils around on the top of the pump. The square coil controls the “down” and the round coil controls the “up” so if you swap the two around it should come down which if it does and won’t raise then the square coil needs to be replaced.
My trailer has been working fine. I had problems last fall and replaced the solenoid and cleaned out the inside of the starter motor because everything had become covered in rust. But up until this morning, it had been running great. On my second load dumping, about 1 foot into the lift, the motor sounded like it had a dying battery. I could hear the motor slowing down. Not wanting to damage anything, I lowered the load and hooked up my battery charger. But my battery was putting out 12.7 volts. I tried to lift, and only got a clicking out of the solenoid. So, I disconnected every contact on both the positive and negative sides and polished them well, still only a click. I pulled apart the starter and cleaned the rust buildup on the inside contacts, still only clicking. I checked my connections and grounds again, still only a clicking out of the solenoid
A quick way to test the motor is to use a good battery and jumper cables. Hook the cables to the battery and then hook the positive cable to the positive post on the pump and then the negative cable to the ground post on the motor. This will bypass everything and just power the motor which should make a squealing sound (it’s not going to pump fluid but should bear down) which if it does then the motor should be good if it does not make a noise then it has an issue. If the motor is bad you can take it to a local electric motor repair shop or call Felling Parts & Service or order online at http://www.store.felling.com, a complete new motor/pump.
Thanks Felling TrailersThe problem I’m having with my dump trailer is that all it will do is make squealing noise when u push up or down and this is when it’s hooked up properly. What could be causing this?Good Morning Will,
It sounds as if the pump is “deadheading”, possibly the valve is not opening on the pump so the fluid is unable to flow. I would check the coil on top of the valve to make sure that it’s still good. If your pump is a power up and power down, you can try swapping the two coils around, if the box then goes up you would know it’s a bad coil. If the box does go up, you will need to swap the coils around again to bring the box back down.
If you have a KTI pump, (this is the same pump that we have used for the past 10 years or so) you can remove the round coil, (this controls the up function) by loosening the nut on top and the two wires. Then swap the round coil with the square coil, (this controls the down function located next to the round coil). After the coil swap is done, you can then lower the box. Note: By continuing to swap the two coils, the trailer can be used until you receive the new square coil that is typically the reason why the box won’t lower. These parts can be purchased from our online parts store http://store.felling.com/
If it’s a KTI pump which we have used the past 10 years or so I would try swapping the round coil and square coil around, the round coil controls the “up” function so it may be just a bad coil. As far as replacing the pump you would disconnect the wires and hoses, then remove the old pump and install the new which should be a fairly simple swap. After the pump swap has been made fill the tank up about half way and work the box up and down which will work the air out of the lines then make sure the tank is filled to the mark on the side of the tank.
The original problem was I was at the dump, and the bed was all the way up.The hand control was broken, so I had to jump the terminals to get the bed back down( shorted something out?)
I am not familiar with a Fenner pump, I would have thought that it was the coil, but since you already replaced it, I would suggest having a local hydraulic shop take a look at it or depending on their labor rate you may be better off replacing the pump which runs $435.95. This can be purchased online through our parts website http://store.felling.com/
Hi. I have a 2010 7×12 gatormade dump trailer. Its eorked great for me until the other day when at about halfway up, it stopped lifting and started making a horrendous noise. It went back down when I pushed the down button, but wont go back up. Does that sound like its the round coil thats the problem? Is the unusual noise typical in that situation?Good day Jeff,
Typically when the coil is the issue, the pump will do nothing. With the noise that you are hearing, I would look at the cartridge that the coils attach to. It would seem like the pump is trying to pump but it can’t push the oil through. To purchase the parts needed, visit our online store http://store.felling.com/.
The 12V wire from the battery to the solenoid heats up so much that the casing on the wire has melted. Also, the wire from the Up/Down controller that connects to the same 12V port on the solenoid also melted and caused the wire to burn off. The cable from the battery is a #2 and the connection is tight.
Typically we see this when the battery is low and the operator is trying to get that last cycle out of the battery before it completely goes dead. The charging wire ends up pushing a lot more amps than the wire is rated for thus heating it up and melting the wire.
My trailer is new this year, works fine but just has a bit of a jiggle on the way down … is this something to worry about ? I typically just take it down extra slow so it doesn’t do it badly, it is a 5 ton dual Cylinder model
I have a u-dump trailer that I have been working the bugs out of. If I raise it the entire amount up sometimes it sticks and will not come down until I apply pressure. It returns by gravity. I have cleaned the vent in the reservoir but have had no luck preventing the sticking when raised 100% high.Hello Shawn,
2009 Parker performance 16 tandem dump, pulled the solenoid checked with battery seems to be open and closing, installed new battery’s, when you hook up the final ground of battery’s it starts going up with no one on the switch. I switched the small terminal wires on solenoid it still does it. Is the solenoid just no good, or the switch have a short in it. There’s only three wires from switch green,white, black. Green goes to square one wire thing on motor. Black to hot side of solenoid which also has positive from battery to the same post. White to small post closest to large positive post. Ground from motor to negative side of solenoid. And ground from solenoid mount screw to motor, to small post closest to main ground on solenoid. So am I lost yes. Is solenoid just have short in it? Or does main switch have short in it? Or does that one wire square thing mounted to motor need replaced? Battery’s I removed were dead and seemed very hot, battery’s looked like low on fluid even though there no maintenance. I installed brand new battery’s. keep in mind my construction guys use this so I don’t always really no what they might have done, cuz not sure if I run a day care or a construction company,act like bunch of 3 year olds and never have a idea how anything got broke or ran over. Standard with idiots. Needing answers in peculiar Missouri.Hello James,
The solenoid could possibly be stuck open and may need to be replaced. If you are able to disconnect the switch and then put power to the pump, if it does the same thing I would look at the solenoid but if it only does it with the switch in place that would indicate a possible bad switch.
I have a dump Trailer that won’t raise. New battery, and when I turn on/up it only clicks. The actuator that clicks moves the pin in (with cover plate off) but nothing more… Anything I can rule out?Hello Paul,
I’m not sure which brand or style of pump you have. However, there should be a coil to control the up and possibly another if it’s power down. If it has two coils, you can swap the two around to see if it lifts which if it does you will need to swap them around to bring the box back down.
Hi, not sure if this question has been asked and I did not read through all the questions and answers: my question is, my cylinder on my dump trailer has what looks like a pressure relief but. I thought it was a damaged nut and decided to change it out and put a solid nut. When I went to lift the box, I noticed it did not lift to its full capacity. I went back to remove the nut and place back the original one and when I did that I was hit in the face with hydraulic oil. I am thinking that the original nut has its reason for having this relief hole, but nonetheless I think it’s damaged. What is the purpose for this type of nut and what is it called and where can I find a replacement?Good morning Jose,
Some of the dump trailers have a check valve on the cylinder to keep the box from free falling in case of a broke hose. As far as finding one I would send a picture of it to Felling Parts, [email protected] and we should be able to find the right one for you.
I just purchased a dump trailer with dual cylinders and when I lift the bed it does not come up level. I’ve measured the rams at half stoke and they were both the same. I’m not sure if one is weaker or slower. I haven’t been able to put a load on it to see if it has enough power to lift. Any explanations?Good day Lawson,
Something that can be tried is adding a “Proportional Flow Divider” this will keep the pressure equal to both cylinders. The other thing to check is that the cylinder mounting to make sure that they were placed correctly and match.
I have a 16′ long brimar, a few months ago it would go up but then have a hard time going back down. I gressed the cyliner and seemes to work better. Then shorlty after it stopped going all the way up- it seems as if one of the two cylinders is getting stock first coming down and then going up- it is sticking in the same spot, right at the place where the ‘second’ cylinders comes in nd out.Good day Rene,
i have a Big Tex dump trailer with a Bulcher Hydraulic pump, it is both power up and power down. can i change the down side to free flow down and if so what is the procedure? only want to free flow down to save battery charge time for multiple dumps.Good day, Will
I am not familiar with the Bulcher brand pump however, most pumps will allow for different valving, so the pump becomes gravity down. I would watch the pricing for just the valve vs. a new power up gravity down pump as I have seen that sometimes there is much of a difference between the two so it might be better to just replace the pump. One other thing to consider is a good deep cycle battery, if you don’t already have one on the trailer, we have much better luck with deep cycles than just a regular battery.
I have a trailer that has had very little use in five years or so. It has been sitting now for at least three months without a battery. When i hooked the battery back up it will not work. Any suggestions as to what the problem is?Good day Darel,
We would need a bit more information and a picture if possible of the valve, this will help us to diagnose the issue better. Please send the picture with a short note to [email protected]
HI my 08 14ft felling dump trailer keeps draining my battery when not in use it is a new battery and I had it checked any idea what could be draining the battery thanks muchHello Ryan,
A battery will always discharge on its own, so if its sitting for a long time (a few months over winter something like that) it may be normal however if it’s a shorter period of time then I would look for a draw. The pump could be drawing it down or we have seen a few trailers that because of corrosion issues the taillights are actually powered drawing off of the battery with the trailer disconnected from the tow vehicle.
It looks like the trailer is rated for 4800 payload, however that does need to be evenly distributed. If the load is evenly distributed and under 4800 I would start by making sure that the battery is fully charged and would have the battery load tested to make sure that it’s giving the pump what it needs to operate correctly. If the battery test ok, then you have to look at the pump. I’m not familiar with the capacity of the pump that Big Tex uses, but typically most dump trailers require 3000 psi, so I would confirm (usually a tag on the side of the pump) working psi of that pump and confirm that the pump is putting out that required psi.
I’m not sure how old the trailer is in this case, but I would look strongly at the battery and make sure that it is a deep cycle battery which are designed to be ran down and charged back up without sulfating the battery which cut the life of the battery greatly.
I have a 2015 Load Trail dump trailer. I believe it has the KTI hydraulic motor. The issue I’m having is when I lift the trailer it only goes about half way up and the battery dies, I purchased a brand new battery and it’s still doing. Any idea what may be causing my battery to die?Hello Rodrigo,
Before we can answer your question to the best of our ability, we need a bit more information. Is this pump a power up power down style pump or just a power-up gravity down?
Is it possible to hook up a remote lift control on dump trailer? Let me back up, I have a twelve foot dump trailer a single wheel duel axle thirty five hundred pound springs al around. I don’t know brand the trailer was built in 1985, but man does it work when I need it.
I use it sometime to lay down gravel on my drive way, would be nice to be able to do this without someone in the truck driving while I or someone else raises the bed with the corded lift button. What would have to happen to be able to leave the corded lift button, but also be able to use a remote ( some time friend use my trailer) would not want to lose the remote. Besides if they use the trailer there has to be some kind of work for them. Right!.Good morning Rick,
Option one is the Kartech brand which we have on hand and ready to ship. The second option is the Alta brand, this would need to be ordered through our Parts department. The Kartech is higher in cost but is a better quality. Whichever route you would like to go contact our Parts & Service Team at 1-866-335-5464 or email [email protected]
Hello, I have a 2017 H&H 22′ Speedloader car hauler trailer and has power up and power down. When I have a load on it like a truck and accelerate the front of the deck starts to lift a few 3-4 inches (has no deck lock on the power tilt model). Could this be a battery issue as well?Hi Walt,
Does the deck come back down right away, does it hold, or does it come down slow? Is this a new trailer and always done this or was it working fine and just started doing this?
One day our 14′ Felling dump trailer didn’t want to lower back down. Sounded like it was stuck…. I tapped the up button a couple times then finally the down started working. Then next day it got stuck again up but this time, after tapping the up then back down a couple times and not moving, it finally blew a line and lowered till it got too low on fluid. Fixing the line now but what would the possible causes be? Is it a pressure issue? It was almost like it was raised to high and stuck. Thanks!Good morning Josh,
Sounds like possibly a bad coil, I would suggest if it acts up again to swap the two coils around that are located on the top of the pump. There is a round shaped coil (up) next to a square coil (down) on the top side of the pump if you raise the box and it will not lower then switch the two coils around. This should lower the box and would indicate that the square coil is bad and would need to be replaced. If you wanted to continue to use the trailer while waiting for a new coil you can still operate the pump you would just need to continue to swap the coils to raise the box and then lower. This is something that we have seen in the past. As far as the blown line I’m not sure the cause of that, the pump and hoses are rated for 3000 psi which is the maximum output of the pump.
Thanks, Felling TrailersSo, what I did was move the wire coming off the coil to the other coil and it works. I have to push the up button to go down when the up wire is moved to the down coil…. so for now I’ve just been moving the wire back and forth. I guess I need to check the wiring closer.Hello Josh,
If it the box is not coming down without switching the wires on the coil that would indicate that you would need to replace the square-shaped coil. The square coil controls the down cycle and the round coil controls the up cycle.
I have a dump trailer that wont lift. This trailer has a manual lift like a botte jack that works fine. When I use the battery to lift I feel a click and hum sound from the motor and solenoid. Works fine to bring the trailer back down to the down position. Could this be the solenoid or the motor that needs replaced? how would you check theses parts?
Without knowing a brand of the pump there is some gray area but with our pumps, there are two solenoids located on the top of the pump. The round shaped solenoid controls up function and the square-shaped solenoid controls the down function if you swap these two around and the box raises then that solenoid is bad. If you find that you do have a bad solenoid you can continue to use the trailer but will need to swap them around to raise and lower the box until you receive a new solenoid.
I have a Monarch pump. The positive wire melted the post of the battery it got so hot while hosting a load up. I hooked booster cables to bring it the hoist down. The wire got so hot it started melting the casing of the wire. What do you think is the issue?Hello Pat,
Was the battery low on charge when you tried to lift the box? We have found that in the case where the battery is low on charge and trying to lift the box (drawing max amps) that the charging wire will heat and can actually melt that wire.
Please help, Ifor Williams Tipping Trailer Manual Release Screw won’t stay in even after cleaning, tapping gently etc. Subsequently the trailer slowly lowers. I loaned it to a friend and there is evidence that the screw was manipulated with a pliers or a vice grip. Trailer was serviced recently and is fully fit. Any suggestions, please? DaveHello David,
I am not familiar with the system that Williams uses for their tipping trailers. I would suggest contacting their parts and service department or visiting their website for assistance in service the trailer.
I have a load trail dump with an kti pump. Everything worked just fine until I left it in the pasture and the cows chewed off all the wires. ( lid broke a while back) . I rewired all the controle box back and now i just get a clicking sound. I dont know if i am missing something, there is a two wire going inside the back from underneath the toung. I am assuming that is the battery charger but not sure.Hello Chris,
Hi, My control up/down switch hasn’t been correctly hooked up since I bought it, only one button would work and I just switched my poles to go up or down. I’m having trouble with the whole thing now and just replaced the solenoid but it didn’t fix the problem. I am wondering if you can tell me why it would be hooked up like that and how do I do the whole thing right. Im just starting with a mess and any kind of help would be great thank you!Hello Jaymi,
Before the trailer leaves it is inspected which part of that process is to run the box up and down so I suspect some type of component failure. The first thing I would look at is the remote, using a volt meter you can check to see if you have power going to the switch and then when the button is pushed is it sending power to the pump. If that test out fine then I would look at the coils that are located on the top of the pump, the round shaped coil controls the up function and the square-shaped coil controls the down function. If for example, the box will not raise, you can switch the wires from the round coil to the square coil then try running the box up, if it raises then that would indicate that the round coil is bad and needs to be replaced. This is the same if the box raises but won’t lower, switch the wires around and if it comes back down then this would indicate that the square coil is bad and needs to be replaced.
I have a 12′ dump trailer. It seems to go up and down fine, however, I noticed that recently it was leaking hydraulic fluid around where the box is located in the front of the trailer. It is a power up, power down system. I recently powered up when there was slightly low battery and then powered back down. It seemed to never run out, but I suspect that this possibly could have contributed to the issue. Do you know what the issue could be? Thank you!Hi Nick,
Typically most leaks are caused by a battery with a low charge when the box is coming down the pump can’t keep up with the pressure. This creates excessive pressure causing the oil to blow out of the breather on the tank. You may want to also check that the breather is not plugged with dirt, this can cause excessive pressure too that could result in cracks in the tank.
Felling TrailersI have a KTI Pump. I am having the same issues with the reservoir cap blowing off and fluid spraying everywhere. My battery is new and fully charged and the breather is clean. I have noticed on the remote that I can slightly press the “down” button to lower the bed and the pump motor does not run OR I can fully press the “down” button and the pump motor runs as the bed is lowering. Which is the proper way to press the button? And also any other ideas what could cause the fluid to continually over flow besides an overfilled reservoir, low battery, or dirty breather?Good morning Cody, This is the advice our Service Department has given.
“If you are building pressure and have a fully charged battery I would check and make sure that you are getting the full 12 volt to the pump, if you are not getting the full 12 volts the pump will turn slower and then with the weight of the box will build pressure as you lower it.”
I would look for any external leaks first, then if there are no external leaks I would pull out and inspect the O-rings around the spools. If the spools are good then you could have an internal leak in the cylinder. For replacement parts go to Store.Felling.com or call our Parts & Service Team at 1-866-335-5464.
I recently caught the electrical cord under the tire and ripped it in half. I spliced it back together making sure the colored wires matched up. Now when I push up and down I only get a buzzing and no lift or downward motion. Trailer worked great before this happened. Any help would be appreciated.Hello Chris,
If this happens to be on one of our trailers or off of a KTI pump assembly, the following items should work. Depending on the age of the trailer you might not need all three parts, but by replacing all three parts you eliminate any concern of any other damaged areas in the rest of the harness.
I have a 2016 Quality steel 14ft dump trailer . Raised it the other day and when I went to lower it it would not go down. charged the battery a little and got it down . now with a full charge battery it just clicks . put a new solenoid on and still does the click once and nothing.Hello Jim,
Can you confirm that you have 12 volts on the pump side of the solenoid? If so then I would look at the coils. I’m not sure which brand pump Quality uses but there should be two coils on top of the motor (could be square shaped or round shaped), one of the coils controls the up motion and the other controls the down motion. These coils can easily be swapped which is an easy way to see if your “up” coil is bad. If you swap them and the box will raise but now won’t lower than you know that the coil is bad and should be replaced. If you find that this is the problem and need to use the trailer while waiting for the part to arrive you can continue to swap the two coils around to raise and then lower the box. If you are in need of parts feel free to visit us online at https://store.felling.com/
My ol dump truck just clicks when I go to raise the bed.. start the truck drive a bit then it raises sometimes.. shut it off then it clicks again often raises ar times.. the pump is running off the truck battery…helpGood afternoon Bruce,
I have a 6-ton Anderson trailer, it won’t raise it just makes a winding noise. So I first bought a new battery thinking the battery is bad. Still did not raise. Then I drained and pumped out all old hydraulic oil and put in new. It is still just making a winding noise. I’m hoping someone has an answer for me. Please help.
Not sure what kinda trailer or pump I have (no name on pump and bought used with no title) its a 7×14 dual ram. But I had it about 1 foot up when I disconnected the battery to change it out and it went back down. Once I had new battery connected now it barely goes up and falls back down when I let offGood afternoon Justin, Our service dept. is stating it could possibly be a sticky valve, they suggest putting a gauge on the hose to see how much actual pressure the pump is pumping out.
I have a 2015 tx pride dump trailer it’s a 7×14 with 3 ft walls bumper pull. When we raise or lower it, it sparks inside the motor/oil reservoir box. I throughly maybe a grounding issue so I put a board under the motor so it doesn’t contact the metal of the trailer but it won’t work at all if we did this. Cleaned the battery and terminals, changed batteries with a newer one that I have on an identical trailer , still have the problem. I would very much appreciate some advice. Thank you sir.Good Afternoon Marcus,
“I’m not sure which brand of pump is on the trailer but some these hydraulic pumps that are used in these heavier applications are very light pumps and as you know sparks are never good. I would suggest either replacing the pump which typically runs about 400 dollars or I would pull the pump and have it bench tested at a local starter/elec. shop.” Scot Brown
Have a small dump truck with a 12 volt hyd pump like on a lot of trailer it acts like it looses prime if you put a little air pressure in tank it will raise but one you stop you have to blow air in it to get to go upGood Morning Clarence, Our Parts and Service Manager has this advise for you. “Is this something that it just started doing? It sounds as if the oil tank isn’t big enough so there isn’t enough oil but this should have been issue since day one so if it just stared doing it I would guess a bad O-ring on the cartridge on the pump.”
Just bought a 2015 Belmont dump trailer, 7×12 gravity down. Not sure on brand of pump, my issue is when I try to load a skid steer with the factory ramps the entire bed lifts to the up into the lift portion, like there is no pressure to the piston. I have an adjustable pressure relief valve that is stock. I have tried every adjustment with no difference except the speed of the gravity down ( that makes me assume the adjuster works). I’ve seen a million guys load skid steers onto dump trailers with out this issue. Any ideas?Good Morning Michael,
“I tried to access Belmont Trailers website to figure out what style pump they use but was unable to open their site. It would help to know the brand pump?
When you are loading the skid loader, is the box all the way down in the transport position or slightly raised? If it’s in the transport position when you are loading I would try raising the box slightly. Depending how far your pivot point is behind the axles and with only being a power up you could be compressing the air that is on the top side of the cylinder which is allowing the box to raise. I would try raising the box some and see it that makes a difference.”
Felling TrailersIt’s labeled, Bucher hydraulics. I’ve tried to load with the bed lifted some to reduce the pitch, also tried in the transport position. Also tried forward and backwards. The pivot point is exactly 24 inches from the center of the rear axle. Does the pressure relief adjustment valve have anything to do with it? I can’t believe I can’t load a machine onto a dump trailer, really embarrassing. Thanks for the replie.Good Morning Mike,
Our parts and service supervisor tried pulling some information from Bucher’s website but was unable, see that they have some distributers in the USA and I would give them a call and see what their thoughts are in regards to this issue. I wouldn’t think that the pressure relief would be an issue but I just don’t know enough about their pumps.
I just got this trail tech 7×14 older dump trailer well I raised it and secured the cylinder lock then carried on greasing the pins the top cylinder pin cannot get at the plate in the way with box up
Just bought this older 7×14 1400gvw 10 ton trailer tech the problem I’m having is it’s slow to load and retract or lift and return have to wait for the battery to catch up on its trickle charge it drains the battery have to do this a few time going up and same coming down. I made a mistake and forgot the cylinder lock in place then power it down think it pushed the breather cap on the filler cap to blow apart and oil to shoot out. (after id taken it up and got the lockout then when I lowered it is shot a liter of oil out but res didn’t look low, now pump motor will go so far and stall out draining battery voltage and have to wait for the voltage to build up this is the same both ways it is single cylinder scissor lift any ideas I’m thinking it is like fighting against its self hydraulically did a battery drain test on battery it bounces back pretty fast and this is empty.Hello Tom,
We suggest to perform an amp test and see how many amps the pump os drawing. If it’s draining a good battery that quickly you may need to replace or rebuild the motor.
I have a 2018 14’ load trail dump trailer. I went to raise it then i lowered it and when I let off the button the motor keeps running. If I push the up button it will go back up and then down again but when I let off the button it sounds like its still running so I pulled off the battery cable. Any Ideas for me to check?Hello Bruce, If you lift the box you can draw air into the system.
What is the recommended hydraulic oil for a 21013 Felling FT-14DT Hydraulic Dump Trailer? Thanks,Good Morning, We recommend using AFT – Automatic Transmission Fluid for your FT-14DT.
I have a big tex 25du dump trailer the hydraulic pump is not working, where can I buy a new pump? And how do I know the part number or the right pump? Double action, single action? 10 quarts or 15 or 20 quart. any help would be appreciatedGood Afternoon, I’m not sure what brand pump that Big Tex uses, I would recommend A KTI DC4309 which we stock $435.95.
ThanksGood Afternoon Greg, We use Dexron (automatic transmission fluid) in the hydraulic systems for dump trailers and far as a hourly maintenance schedule, KTI doesn’t have one. They recommend that if the oil condition changes such as a brownish color, water appearing in the tank or visual dirt the oil should be changed. Hope this helps you, if you have any other questions feel free to contact our parts and service dept. at 1-866-335-5464.
Dump trailer won’t raise. Pump starts sounds normal for 2 secs then changes to a high pitch noise, Nothing happens during this time. Good battery and fluid. My daughter had the remote switch with the down button pushed while it was already down, it was making a weird noise before I could remove her from the switch. Does anybody have any suggestions?Good Afternoon Ernie,
On top of the pump (if it’s a Felling) there are a square and round coil, I would remove those coils and swap them. If the round coil (up) is bad it should raise, if it does then we know the coil is bad.
my bed is stick in the up position I have removed the hydraulic hose still cant get bed to come down s this the house or the cylinderGood Morning Fred,
I have a EZ dumper with power up and power down. The up button raises and the down button is also raising the bed? This just started today. can’t get it to come downGood morning Chuck,
If it’s a KTI pump? There are two ports, the A port (top) usually goes to the bottom of the cylinder and the B port goes to the top of the cylinder. Either way will work it just may not match the up/down buttons.
I have a brand new 14 foot dump and I have hauled my first load in it and it dumped fine but now it wont go back down. What could be the problem with a brand new trailer?Good Afternoon Brandon
If it’s a Felling/KTI brand pump, you can swap the square coil (down) with the round coil (up) and see if it comes down. If it then works, the coil will need to be replaced.
So I have a dual action dump it works perfectly fine up all the way and they went down all the way for a month or two but now we just don’t seem to raise all the way up when I want to dump it please help me what are some of the things that can make that happenGood afternoon Marcus,
Run the box up empty, note the height of the top of the box vs. when it’s loaded to confirm that it’s not raising all the way. If the battery is fully charged but it’s not raising all the way, possibly too much weight in the front of the box.
is it possible to put a 14 gvw pump on 10gvw dump trailer im having issues with not lifting it and killing the battery after 4 or 5 dumpsGood Morning Danny,
Depending on usage (short runs between cycles) it’s possible to wear the battery down in 4 to 5 cycles. If you wire the trailer directly to the charging system on the truck this will keep the battery fully charged and you shouldn’t have any issues. String two cables (1 ga or so) from the battery back to an Anderson Connector near the hitch. Using the same size cable, run two from the trailer battery to an Anderson connection. This makes another connection to hook up when you connect to the trailer but should take care of any charging issues.
I have a Big Tex 14LP trailer. It is less than two weeks old. I have about 2 yards of soil and tree debris on the trailer and it will not dump. The battery is fully charged. The hydraulic lines appear to be unobstructed. When I press up the scissor hydraulic presses mid bed and there is minor movement. The end closest to the truck does not move at all.
We would suggest calling Big Tex to find out with the hydraulic pressure should be and then check the pump with a gauge to make sure the pump is putting out the correct pressure.
I have a load trailer and like some of these threads the trailer will not lower. When I press the down button it will go in the upward direction. I am able to swap around the round coil and square coil to get the trailer to lower. I have replaced the square coil and it still will not lower but will go up. I have noticed that if I take the new square coil off and only use the round coil that there is a different noise and more power coming from the motor. What is next step after you have swapped the square coil with a new one and the trailer is still not performing as it should?Good afternoon Andrew,
Typically the round coil is up and the square is down, if by switching these around the pump will work this is a sign that the coil is bad. If replacing the coil hasn’t fixed it, I would look at that cartridge.
Felling TrailersThanks for the feedback… How do I check the cartridge? Or is this a component I can purchase from your company? Any guidance is much appreciated…Good afternoon Andrew,
If it’s a KTI brand pump?? We most likely depending on the pump, if it’s not a KTI then possibly Bailey Hydraulics. You can call our Parts and Service Dept. at 1-866-335-5464 for more detailed information.
I have a 10′ Moritz Commercial dump trailer I believe its power up / gravity down (pump has 1 round coil only) I was doing my pre-winter maintenance and now it won’t come Back down ??? Help ???
When I hit the dwn button in can hear a fainted click and it releases pressure of from the cylendar but wont budge any further. What am i missing ? Did I raise it to far ?Hello Robert,
I have a problem with my trailer, I replaced the hydraulic pump because it only went up halfway, I installed the new one and I have the same problem. it reaches the middle of the road and does not go up.Good Evening Christopher,
Possibly the cylinder has an internal leak that the oil leak through the piston, if there is a local hydraulic vendor they could possibly check it. We have found that sometimes the price of a new cylinder is about the same price or cheaper than repairing which is something that you should look at.
I have a 20 foot Sure Pull dump trailer. It was lifting the other day but now won’t budge while empty. The pump is running with a new fully charged battery, the solenoids appear to be opening the valves (I removed the valves and actuated them with the solenoid and they click, and sound like they’re opening). I even removed the hose to the bottom of the hydraulic piston and it’s pumping fluid to the piston. Of course I don’t know the pressure.
I haven’t used the trailer in years, but when I used to I had an issue with it not raising high enough for the load to slide out smoothly. I used to add fluid when it was up to get it to go high enough to dump well (on the way down the excess fluid would spill out).
I wouldn’t mind buying a whole new pump and reservoir (slightly larger in fluid capacity than I have now) but I don’t know if the pump is the problem.
You should put a gauge on the pump to verify that it’s putting out adequate pressure (generally 3000 psi), if you are getting pressure to the cylinder then I would guess you have an internal issue in the hydraulic cylinder.
HansUnfortunately, we do not, you will need to go to an auto parts store and purchase the parts to build one or find a hydraulic shop and have them test it.
We have a sure trac dual cylinder dump trailer. One cylinder is working and the other side is not moving. There were no problems on the previous load a couple hours earlier.
Hi I have a 2018 14000 lb dump trailer. When I load my mini excavator into the bed, the front of the trailer bed raises up. The mini ex weighs 9500 lbs. At first the dump bed only raised a few inches but now it’s a foot or more. What’s wrong? I’d love to send you a video. What email would I send it to?
If loaded, will the box hold in the raised (or somewhat raised) without lowering down on its own? There could be an internal leak inside the cylinder or the valve body on the pump allowing oil to bypass however you should notice the box coming down as it won’t hold the pressure.
I bought a used trailer and I changed the pump new and the battery, but the problem is that it won’t lift up the dirt load. We just changed the the motor but didn’t change any hoses.Good afternoon Rolando,
I have a loadstar dump trailer, when you hit the up button the solenoid clicks but will not engage the pump. Trying to figure out if it needs a new solenoid.Good afternoon Carl,
Hello. I have a ’19 Lamar dump trailer that is stuck in the dump position. KTI pump. Remote is making good contact. Both coils check at 5 Ohms. I have swapped the round coil(up) with the square coil (down) and bed still will not lower.Good morning Casey,
I don’t know Load King uses for pumps or the capacity, you could check with the manufacture to get the specs of the pump and then see if there is a lager GPM (gallons per minute) pump available.
I am working on a single.phase dump trailer it goes up but not down. I put a new coil and solenoid on its new remote to not sure what else to do.Good morning Matthew,
We think it could possibly be a bad O-Ring in the valve body. Feel free to contact our parts and service department to help diagnose to problem at 1-866-335-5464.
Hello I have a Monarch single acting pump on a dump trailer my problem is it doesn’t stay up it looses pressure can you please help.Good morning Eric,
Could be a bad O-ring in the valve body of the pump or the hydraulic cylinder, you would need to pull them apart to inspect the O-rings which at that point I would just replace them.
My trailer had bad batteries. Replaced them both. Trailer goes up and down as it should but at the top it purges fluid out of the cylinder breather bolt. Bolt was actually missing all the small pins that create the screen so I replaced it with a new one and still leaks oil out. Let back down and it doesn’t leak.Good morning Andrew,
Typically we see the fluid come out of the breather if the battery power is low, the battery power only allows the motor to barely turn, and then the weight of the box builds pressure up in the system. When the pressure builds too high it pushes the oil out of the breather.
If the battery is fully charged, then I would look for a restriction in the pump, this would also cause the pressure to build and could lead to the oil being pushed out.
Is the battery low? If the battery is low and you are lowering the box, the pump cannot turn fast enough and the weight of the box will build pressure in the system. If there is enough pressure in the system, the oil will come out of the breather/oil fill cap.
My pre 2003 Bri-Mar dump trailer will not lift. When I press the up switch, I get a click. Tried jumping the solenoid and still does not lift. I removed and replaced the ground wire from the battery to the box/frame and still does not lift. Then I placed jumper cables from the negative terminal to the steel hydaulic fittings attached to the pump body and low and behold, the pump worked. So obviously my pump is not grounded properly. I do have a ground lead to the body of the solenoid, but that does not touch the pump body. The solenoid is supported by a coper bracket attached to the positive lead on the pump and solenoid and is suspended over the pump body. I am not sure how the pump should be grounded. Suggestions?Hello Brian,
Hello, I have a dump trailer with a kti hydraulic pump power up gravity down and my issue is that the ram will not extend all the way out. It struggles to extend when its about 90% extended. I have no leaks and a fully charged battery. Any way to fix this? Thank you.Good Morning Anthony,
There could be a decrease in pressure, I would check the pressure at the pump with a gauge. Typically these pumps should put out about 3,000 psi at the pump.
My dump trailer goes up about three inches then seems like it struggling then just clicks. Battery was low but is fully charged. There is no significant load in the trailer.Hello Eric,
If the battery has gone low seral times, it can start to sulfate which drastically reduces its performance. I would first fully charge the battery and then load-test it. It could be putting out 12 volts under no load but then dropping down below the required 12 volts under a load.
All specifications and measurements are subject to change. Trailer dimensions, weights and measurements will vary due to manufacturing and production changes. Please verify the actual measurements of any unit prior to purchasing it. Each unit listed for sale is a specific unit at the specific location, subject to prior sale, all prices valid until 03/14/2023. The trailer photo displayed may be an example only. Pricing throughout the web site does not include any options that may have been installed at the dealership. For non-Oregon stores, debit price must be paid with a debit card at the store. Please call or arrive in-store to have the debit price applied. Sale price reflects the price when paying with credit. For all Oregon stores, debit price and sale price are equal; paying with debit card or credit will receive the same price discounts. Please see the dealer for details. Some trailers shown with optional equipment. See the actual trailer for complete accuracy of features, options & pricing. The trailer pictures on this site may not match your vehicle exactly; however, it will match as closely as possible. Some trailer images shown are stock photos and may not reflect your exact choice of vehicle, color, trim and specification. Not responsible for pricing or typographical errors.
Knowing how to right-size an electric motor for your hydraulic pump can help reduce energy consumption and increase operational efficiency. The key is to ensure the pump motor is operating at peak continuous load. But how can you know how much power is needed?
Before you can choose the correct electric motor, you must know how much horsepower (Hp) is required to drive the pump shaft. Generally, this is calculated by multiplying the flow capacity in gallons per minute (GPM) by the pressure in pounds per square inch (PSI). You then divide the resulting number by 1714 times the efficiency of the pump, for a formula that looks like this:
If you’re not sure how efficient your hydraulic pump is, it is advisable to use a common efficiency of about 85% (Multiplying 1714 x 0.85 = 1460 or 1500 if you round up). This work-around simplifies the formula to:
The above formula works in most applications with one notable exception: If the operating pressure of a pump is very low, the overall efficiency will be much lower than 85%. That’s because overall efficiency is equal to mechanical efficiency (internal mechanical friction) plus volumetric efficiency.
Internal friction is generally a fixed value, but volumetric efficiency changes depending on the pressure used. Low-pressure pumps have high volumetric efficiency because they are less susceptible to internal leakage. However, as the pressure goes up and internal fluids pass over work surfaces such as pistons, port plates, and lubrication points, the volumetric efficiency goes down and the amount of torque required to turn the pump for developing pressure goes up.
This variance makes it very important to know the efficiency of your pump if you’re using it at low pressure! Calculations that do not take low pressure into account will lead to a failed design.
If you calculate 20 GPM @ 300 PSI with an assumed overall efficiency of 89%, you would probably select a 5 Hp electric motor. However, if you calculate the same 20 GPM @ 300 PSI with the actual overall efficiency of 50%, you would know that you should be using a 7.5 Hp motor. In this example, making an assumption about the efficiency of your pump could result in installing a motor that is too large, driving up your overall operating cost.
There are many contributors to the overall efficiency of a hydraulic pump, and it pays to be as accurate as possible when choosing a motor. A best practice for proper sizing is to use published data from the pump vendor that shows actual input torque vs. pressure or overall efficiency vs pressure. Note that efficiency is also affected by RPM.
Identifying a right-sized motor for your hydraulic pump does not always ensure you are using the most efficient motor. Be sure to read Part 2 of this post to learn how RMS loading and Hp limiting can help you scale down the size of your electric motor to save money while maximizing efficiency.
Avoid costly pump repairs and lost production time by being immediately alerted by text or email when your pumps either shut down or the temperature of the working fluid violates the manufacturer’s recommendations.
The built-in thermocouple allows you to track the temperature and machine uptime on one intuitive dashboard that is available on any smart device or computer. There are also multiple digital outputs that allow for visual/audible alarms to be fired when thresholds are exceeded.
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