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Chrysler | 2004-2008 PT Cruiser Convertible Rebuild/Upgrade service for main lift cylinder(s) using Top Hydraulics" proprietary seal upgrade, or replacement of hydraulic lines, or rebuild service of the pump, or any combination of the above. If your convertible top is moving slowly or not at all, you likely have one or both of the hydraulic cylinders leaking, which emptied out the pump"s reservoir. This is normal for a convertible of this age, as the seals in the hydraulic cylinders are decaying. The seals typically decay first on the bottom of the cylinders, where you would least expect it. Top Hydraulics replaces and upgrades all seven seals per cylinder, with an expected service life of several decades! The PT Cruiser convertible has two lift cylinders for the convertible top. Top Hydraulics" seal material is far superior to the OEM"s. Please send in your cylinders to be rebuilt, or use our core exchange service, also known as up-front shipping. Optional up-front shipping is more expensive, but very convenient. It includes a $150 core deposit plus a $40 surcharge per cylinder. When removing the hydraulic lines from the cylinders, please retract the cylinder shafts first. That way, you avoid that any accidentally slipping tool might damage the polished cylinder shaft. Top Hydraulics can replace the shafts with some from our own production, but we would have to charge extra. These cylinders typically fail first in the rear (bottom) of the cylinder. The OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) cylinders have front and rear caps that are sealed from the cylinder bodies with a seal material that decays over time. Top Hydraulics replaces those seals with a far superior material that is not sensitive to water and is resistant to most additives in hydraulic fluid. Our seals have a larger cross section for a superior static seal. The OEM cylinders rely on a tiny o-ring to energize a very thin, flat rod seal. The o-rings loose elasticity over time, and the OEM rod seals wear out. Top Hydraulics manufactures and installs its own precision CNC machined front caps in these cylinders, so that the tiny OEM rod seals can be replaced with Top Hydraulics" own u-cup seals for a far more reliable seal and much longer service life. In addition, the size and geometry of Top Hydraulics" u-cups is forgiving to tiny scratches and imperfections in the cylinder rods (aka piston rods or shafts), caused during the original manufacture, during removal from the car, during installation into the car, or by impurities in the hydraulic fluid. Top Hydraulics replaces the port seals (where the hydraulic hoses attach) and ships spares with each cylinder, in case your mechanic accidentally pinches an o-ring while installing the hydraulic hose. Note: if you have Top Hydraulics rebuild only one cylinder, or both, but not the full system, then you will have to refill the hydraulic pump with fluid. The system is self venting, and the air from the cylinder(s) will eventually end up in the reservoir. It can take several cycles to get all air out of the system. Keep topping off the reservoir until the fluid level does not drop below the fill mark any more. You can fill the pump slowly with a syringe or a squirt bottle through the fill plug in the middle, on top of the pump. You may need to use pliers or vise grips to loosen the plug if you end up stripping the 5-mm inside hex. The filling process through the fill plug is slow. You can speed it up a little by manually pulling up one or both of the cylinder shafts while filling the pump - this creates a vacuum in the reservoir. We recommend against taking off the reservoir, because you might damage the reservoir or its o-ring in the process. In particular, we recommend against drilling a hole in the reservoir. You will be introducing foreign particles into the system, plus the reservoir gets pressurized when the hydraulic cylinders retract. Possible fluids to use: FeBi 02615 Aral Vitamol Mercedes fluid p/n A 000 989 9103 (10) Pentosin CHF-11S Mopar 05127381AA Univys 26 All fluids above will mix with each other or with the original fluid in the pump, and they are safe to use in the system. Owning and driving a convertible with an automatic top is prestigious, convenient and exciting - let Top Hydraulics help you enjoy your beautiful car even more by making your convertible top system truly better than new!

Includes $400 refundable deposit. Rebuilt & upgraded cylinders, new & superior hoses, rebuilt & upgraded pump. System ships fully assembled and filled with hydraulic fluid. This saves you a lot of labor and frustration, compared to replacing the components one by one. Outstanding value, far superior to original OEM quality.

In your Chrysler PT Cruiser, there are two lines/hoses routed to each hydraulic cylinder. The hydraulic top system has a total of four hoses.  Each hose has a two-digit number stamped on it. Please identify the hose number when ordering.

Service of all moving parts with three years warranty. The pump goes through extensive testing of flow, pressure in both directions, and extended load testing to make sure it exceeds the manufacturer"s specs before we ship it back.

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I have a 2005 PT Cruiser Convertible Turbo, and am having issues with my top. The motor runs, but I cannot put the top down. I read through the forums, found the bleeder screw, loosened that, and can manually raise and lower the top. If I open the bleeder screw and put the top down manually, and then tighten the screw, the top will close by pressing the button. VERY.GRUDGINGLY. The motor is very loud and the top closes VERY slowly. I haven"t seen or smelled any hydraulic fluids in the trunk, or under the vehicle. Of all the PITA things that have gone wrong with this car, leaking fluids is thankfully not one of them. So this leads me to believe that over time (9 years) I"ve managed to slowly lose enough hydraulic fluid so there just isn"t enough pressure in the lines to raise and lower the top properly.

This SHOULD be a relatively easy task, one would think, although Chrysler did a lot of things in the 2005 PT Cruiser Convertible to make what should be relatively easy tasks non-trivial, and requiring a trip to a mechanic to do them. So after ripping out the entire passenger side back seat to get to the top motor, my internet research has shown that Chrysler made the pump a totally sealed system without a way to add more hydraulic fluid, necessitating a complete replacement of the entire working pump.

I"ve seen one "guide" on the web which suggests VERY carefully drilling a hole in the plastic top of the reservoir, making sure that no plastic shavings get into the system, topping off the reservoir using a turkey baster to squirt the correct fluid ($25/qt?????), and then plugging up the hole with a rubber V stopper from your local hardware store. Another certified tech on another web answer site stated that there already was a rubber plug for refilling the hydraulic fluid, so I"m doubly confused as to what I might actually find once I spend an afternoon ripping out my back passenger seat. Any help here to save me that exploratory mission would be greatly appreciated.

Finally, while calling around to try and find a used top motor ($125 is the lowest price several states away), which will already have the elusive hydraulic fluid inside its self contained little ecosystem, the used parts salesman had what seems to be a rather brilliant solution, I think... The hydraulic lines have to push AND pull hydraulic fluid through the system, right? Is it possible to easily remove the end from one of the intake lines (there are 4 total), stick that line into the container of hydraulic fluid, and let the pump suck new fluid into the sealed reservoir? Or am I SOL on this method because like the reservoir, everything in this bloody top motor assembly is completely sealed and impossible to access?

I"d really like to get this done as easily and cheaply as possible so I can sell my Cruiser. I"m in the process of buying another vehicle as we speak, but not doing a trade-in so I have the luxury of a little time. The top does need to work, because no one wants a convertible with a broken top, although I am far from concerned about the longevity of the fix, so using a used part is fine with me, although just adding a little more hydraulic fluid would make me a heck of a lot happier.

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The system is a "closed" system from the factory and therefor not made to enable a refill..I have the same problem with mine and there is a it is...key element here is that when the power top system is activated there is NO pressure in the resevoir..all the resevoir does is enable a transfer of the fluid. That being said what I did is drilled a hole through the TOP of the plastic resevoir and when to Home Depot and bought a small rubber "V" shapped plug to plug the hole after I added hydrolic fluid. Caution here as go slowly while drilling the hole as to make sure the plastic shavings do not get in the resevoir as the drill bit cuts through the plasic tank housing. Then grab a turkey baster, suck the fluid up from the new quart of fluid and carefully squirt it through ht e hole you made in the resevoir (make sure the hole you drilled in the resevoir is big enough to accomidate the size of the hole n the end of the turkey baster or you will make a mess. After the resevoir is filled work the system WITHOUT the plug on to emable the system to bleed tha air out. Continually check for leaks in the system as if you have one, you will see the fluid pour out where ever there is a leak. If there is a leak, the leak myst be fixed (an entire new process) if there is no leak, refill until you are about 3/4 full in the resevoir tank and place the rubber plug over the hole you drilled in the tank and you will be good to go...

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“ImperialCrown” wrote: ‘The problem with the Neon and PT front control arm bushing is that the rubber insulator is "bonded" to a metal shell that is pressed into the control arm. In damp or salt belt geographic areas, the bond comes apart from surface rust developing between the rubber and steel. The rear of the control arm then drops down and rests on the crossmember resulting in a "clatter" over bumps. It is never a dangerous condition and would never come apart as it is a captive assembly. The caster might change very slightly, but other than that it will not significantly affect alignment. I have shimmed mine with 1/8" plastic shims to keep it from rattling against the crossmember.”

Bob Sheaves replied: “The bushing shell adhesive is not the issue; XJ (Cherokee) and others have used them since long before Neon and PT. If the bushings were not preloaded, you would never have the strain of shear force against the adhesive to start with. You have to have a load to seperate the adhesive so the corrosion can start to begin with. Wear doesbecome a safety issue when you let the metal parts bang against each other and wear through. ... Aftermarket ‘bushings’ that I know of all have the same issue, but worse, due to the stiffness of the urethane does not last as long as the stock rubber before wearing out due to this loading. The onlyway to effectively eliminate the issue is to use uni-ball (heim) joints, not bushings.”

I just changed the the lower control arm bushings in my PT and the banging noises persisted. I didn"t think much about it when I was taking the LCA"s off but the bushings for the sway bar had became hardened. They are supposed to be soft, but road chemicals and the like harden them, which can cause noise.

Raven wrote: After a time, the spring in the radiator cap looses strength and no longer maintains the abililty to keep all of the water in the anti-freeze from escaping. The overflow tank doesn"t replenish the loss and eventually it overheats. Badly.Like mine did at 70 mph! The cap double locks: when you think you have it closed you have to push it down hard and keep turning until it stops or you will have slight fluid loss again resulting it the same problem... It looked like a bomb hit my engine compartment; I thought it was big bucks but it was only the result of a bad cap. Maybe when people have their water pumps changed mechanics neglect to replace the cap and the overheating still exists.

Run the engine for a minute or two, so the sensor and surrounding area will be hot and easier to remove without damage. This means you need to be extra careful that you don"t burn yourself on the dangerously hot catalytic converter or exhaust manifold when working. Then disconnect the battery, jack up the vehicle, and place it securely on jack stands (or rent a hydraulic lift). Unplug the sensor (you’ll need to trace the wires for a while on the downstream one) and unscrew it with the special socket. The upstream sensor is on the top side of the exhaust manifold, the lower one is on the side of the catalytic converter.

Opinions on whether the PT uses an interference design or not vary. In any case, the timing belt tensioner design was changed in 2003 to provide greater durability. “Shadetree” wrote that he replaced his 2002 PT’s timing belt using a Gates kit purchased at a regular parts shop; the kit includes the old-style belt tensioner and an idler pulley (dealer kits include a newer design tensioner, but are far more expensive). The flat-rate cost is eight hours; it may take experienced mechanics less time.

I found the cause for the loss of dash lights and loss of led on the radio/clock of my 2002 PT: moving the steering wheel up and down while adding side pressure (either direction) causes the lights to go out. Remove the bottom steering wheel cover; turn the ignition key on so the dash lights and the radio/clock led are on, but not the engine. Next move the wheel up and down slowly while applying pressure to the left and right to encourage an electrical open condition. If the lights go out you now can fix the problem as I did.

Scotit1 wrote: “If you are experiencing problems with the air conditioner, check to be sure that the two speed radiator fan is working correctly. The first symptom is lack of cooling in the a/c. It is controlled by the largest relay in the black box under the hood on the drivers side. The fan may fail intermittently. It is controlled by the sensor near the thermostat on the passenger side which has a slide mechanism as well as a clip like the radiator fan to secure it. High speed operation can be checked by disconnecting the sensor, while low speed can be checked while engine is idling without disconnecting it. It is noticeable when standing in traffic as the engine will "stutter" while idling if it"s failing intermittently. Check to make sure your oil change guys haven"t been hanging their drop lights on the fan wires first!”

[Introduction: the PT uses an anti-theft system where a small radio transponder is built into the head of the keys.] My 2001 PT Cruiser ignition cylinder locked up and caused me to crack my key when trying to start it up. Later the key broke off (not in the cylinder, thank goodness!) The locksmith replaced the cylinder but when he tried to reprogram the new keys, the code wouldn"t work. He gave up and left me with the 2 new keys that weren"t programmed, and the one old working key. Thanks to this forum I realized I might be able to program the new keys myself, but I needed two keys to proceed. Solution? Tape the head of the old key to the "courtesy key" (a key with no transponder head). The car thinks it is key #1; then used my one working key as Key #2. I then proceeded two program the 2 new blanks and saved around $75 to $100.

GT Cruisers commonly go through their first set of tires in under 20,000 miles. Most replacement tires are far more long-lived and many also have better performance. We found Goodyear"s own Eagle F1 All-Season (be careful not to get the F1 "summer tire") to be quieter, better in wet and dry weather, and cheaper than the original Eagle RS-A, despite a much higher treadwear index.

The automatic transmission in Chrysler"s PT Cruiser can only be used with Type 7176 transmission fluid. Do not use Dexron. Make sure mechanics and oil change places use the right fluid. For evidence and horror stories, click here.

2. Attach (tightly) Miller Special Tool, 9688 onto the pump reservoir; then attach a hand vacuum pump (Miller Special Tool) C-4207-A, and apply 68-85 kPa (20-25 in. Hg) of vacuum to the power steering system for at least 3 minutes.

The Watts linkage on a number of PTs appears to be breaking with age, causing a clunking sound from the rear. Price to replace at the dealer appears to be roughly $200. “EngineJack” wrote: “I tried to remove the pivot with the PT rear wheels on ramps but could not break the taper on the arms. (Not enough room to apply leverage). So I removed the arms from the chassis and the pivot bolt from the link and worked on the pivot on the bench. The left hand arm-to-chassis bolt was unbelievably hard to remove. I had to remove the left rear wheel to be able to add a long bar to the get sufficient leverage to start it turning.

Having intermittant/hot start problems with your PT? The factory battery came with a "thermal wrap"--an insulating heat shield ($13). This sometimes gets lost but the high temperatures in the engine bay can shorten the life of your battery. Check to see if you have the wrap around your battery. It is a black plastic insulated sleeve. If you need a new battery, install a heat resistant type.

Next, the battery/starter wiring harness is located where corrosion can be a problem. Mine had corroded connections which led to high resistance and melted the terminal end at the starter. When I replaced it ($75), I noticed the new harness was built to a higher standard of quality with terminals that were not only swedged but soldered as well. (Telemachus’ PT was a 2002 model.)

Joe Adams II reported: “I started having an oil pressure problem last month. The oil filter gaskets would blow out after increasing the rpm"s a little bit. I tried many different oil filters and called many repair shops including the dealership. They all told me that the oil pump was bad. [I got a new pump for $80 and when installing it, noticed that] the spring had broken into about 15 pieces causing my oil pressure to build. I replaced the valve, spring, and new cap into my old pump. The plunger, spring, bolt and gasket are $26 from the dealer (not available from a regular parts shop).”

Steph from Florida noted: “I love my 2004 PT Cruiser - it"s the second one I"ve owned. But the re-occuring problem with both has been the driver"s seat. There"s currently nothing under the seat to prevent anything in the back from rolling right under the driver"s seat and then under the pedals! Quick stops especially highlight the problem. I had my nephew in the back with a bottle, and when he dropped it on the floor, it ended up underneath my brake pedal as I was trying to stop. Luckily, I wasn"t going fast and was able to get the bottle out before hitting anything. I tried to report this to Chrysler, but none of their phone operators seemed to understand that I was trying to report a problem, not find out about existing recalls. I did report this to NHTSA, but so far, no recalls that I"ve been notified of. Right now, I"m driving with a towel under the seat to block any stray items.”

The PT fascias from (2000-02) were injection molded with a TPO plastic using a technology called MIC (Mold In Color), where when they come out of the mold, they are that gray color, giving the PT that one-of-a-kind look. Well, as you know, the sides of the fascia are painted body color in a bake oven. Consequently, the gray part had to be taped off so the sides could be primed and then painted body color. When the part is heated in the baking oven, the tape on the fascia interacts with the plastic pulling the UV resins out, mainly due to the high temp of the oven. DC did much Xenon accelerated weather testing to solve this issue for us PT owners. They understood the problem was caused by the interaction of the tape, heat, plastic, and UV exposure, but could never quantify how much of what actually caused the failure. They were lead to believe that there was another element out in the field that was not being accounted for (wax, polish, chemical, etc...that accelerates the problem) They were able to optimize the tape to reduce the problem (some tapes cause it more than others). But in the test labs, they could never duplicate the nasty failures we see on our cars.

So, the conclusion in April of 2003 was to run the fascias through the paint line a maximum of 2 times. But bear in mind, that by 2003, they were already onto the painted fascias and there wasn"t a whole lot they could do, except try to make sure the fascias in MOPAR were acceptable for service. Which, they are having problems with those because there is something out there that is causing this and they can"t find it. Also, keep in mind, engineers move on to new and upcoming projects and don"t always stay with one car, so issues sometimes get lost as new people step in. So, that kinda explains why its been so long and nothing was done. Personally, I think DC should have wrote a TSB two years ago when complaints started coming in.

The hatch supports - liftgate props, as they"re called - may last only four or five years before they start needing more help to go up. PT Cruiser liftgate props are part number

Recalls are "enforced" repairs - the manufacturer must do them - whereas service bulletins are "optional" - dealers can charge you. For recall related questions call 800 853 1403.

Many people have noted that, to get above the work done, they needed to tell their dealer it feels sluggish from standing starts with the a/c on (that"s the symptom on the PT) or that there is audible knock under high load at high altitude. Otherwise, TSB or not, the dealers would not do it.

Adam W. Broadaway wrote: "I read your paragraph about hoods getting damaged by careless/hurried mechanics. I brought my PT Cruiser in to a body shop after slightly damaging the bumper when I slid across an icy bridge last year. I went to pick up the car and noticed a large bulge in the left part of the hood. I asked the manager about it and he seemed surprised. I told him it looked like someone had tried to shut the hood with the prop rod up. He got very angry at me for accusing his guys of that but there it was, a huge bulge in the hood. Two months later, I got a new hood out of the deal. I did not realize this was a common problem until I read your story."

3) my dealer had a different part number for the intake manifold gaskets--4884648AA--but those were nowhere near the gaskets needed to connect the PTC"s upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold. My advice is don"t bother with getting any gaskets. The valve cover cost $149 and it took about four hours to do the job; now that I know how to do it, it would probably take about two hours to do another. The Haynes manual was adequate enough although it said nothing about loosening the power steering reservoir bracket or reattaching the ignition coil!

I recently had the original battery on my 2003 PT Cruiser GT finally go bad and I replaced it. In the process of it dying, I lost my interior lights, the memory on the trip odometer, my power locks, my remote key fob capability, my radio/CD player, and the odometer display showed a "NO FUSE" message alternating with the overall mileage reading. The car still ran fine, but it was obvious I had blown a fuse or fuses.

Most PT Cruisers have an antitheft key (SentryKey) with a radio transponder built in to avoid theft. The cost of a new key varies from $25 (Sears) to $40 and up (dealer). To code the key yourself (after it has been cut to match your

put in the new spare key, and turn it to the ON position. After about ten seconds, you should hear one more chime. Only a limited number of keys can be programmed, and you only get a few attempts to get it right, so be careful and wait to hear the chimes when doing this process. We have now done this ourselves. It is the same process as on many other Chrysler vehicles. Not all PTs have this key - some have a plain key that costs about $1 to replicate.

Roy Thigpen wrote: “My 2002 PT Cruiser had an electrical short caused when the wire from the battery to the distribution block was rubbed through by a sharp edge on the engine block, where the bracket is secured. This blew out the starter and the battery and could have caused a fire.”

pt cruiser convertible <a href=''>hydraulic</a> <a href=''>pump</a> refill pricelist offers the wholesale prices for genuine 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser parts. Parts like Convertible Top - Attaching Parts are shipped directly from authorized Mopar dealers and backed by the manufacturer"s warranty. Parts fit for the following vehicle options. Engine: 4 Cyl 2.4L. Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic Transmission, 5-Speed Manual Transmission.

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How do I use this Product Cross Reference Guide?Product Cross Reference Guide: This product cross reference guide follows recommendations outlined in your owners manual and also reflects periodic service recommendation updates from the original equipment manufacturer for this particular model (2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser with engine code [G]) show example... For example, the manufacturer may have recommended 5W30 motor oil at the time of production (owners manual) & later revised the recommendation to 5W20. This guide will reflect latest recommendation by the manufacturer for this model. If there are no special instructions from the manufacturer, the owner can choose to follow either one of the recommendation without voiding warranty hide example.

Optional Equipment Listing This guide lists all available equipment options such as transmission options, differentials etc. for 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser with engine code [G] hide.Product Availability Listing This guide lists all available AMSOIL & substitute brand products that meet or exceed OEM (Chrysler) recommendation for each equipment. Any one of the recommended product can be used. One may be better than the other, you can review product details & price or contact us to ask our opinion pertaining to your usage and preference hide.Operating Temperature Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) sometimes provide different product recommendations based on operating environment temperature for a given equipment. This product cross reference guide will list such recommendations based on OEM guidelines. Some OEM recommended viscosity pertaining to a specific temperature range may not be available from AMSOIL.

products recommended for another temperature range can be safely used because AMSOIL synthetic lubricants are engineered to provide exceptional performance for significantly broader temperature range when compared to conventional & or other brand synthetic oils. For more information on a lubricants cold temperature performance; please refer to "Pour Point" from "Technical Properties" table located at the bottom of each lubricant product page hide.Last Updated This product cross reference guide for 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser engine code [G] was last updated on 21st August 2018 hide.

AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oil is the choice for those who want to do something extra for their vehicle. Its boosted formulation delivers extra cleaning power, outstanding wear control, excellent high and low temperature protection and exceptional fue...

OE Synthetic Motor Oil is for mechanics and drivers seeking peace of mind protection and exceptional value in synthetic motor oil. It delivers 100 percent synthetic engine protection for advanced automotive technology, including turbochargers and

*** This item is available for US customers only *** Brake fluid acts as a hydraulic fluid, transferring power and lubricating brake system components while also preventing corrosion. It must contend with extreme heat and the inevitable moi...

Exceptional High-Speed/High-Temperature Performance. AMSOIL DOMINATOR® Synthetic Racing Grease is engineered to protect high-performance bearings and chassis components in racing applications operated on snow, dirt, water or track. Package siz...

plate for superior strength at the double seal & also feature a silicone anti-drainback valve. Glass enhanced media in WIX oil filters offers greater efficiency, capturing more 10 to 12 micron sized particles than other cellulose or synthetic blend medias.

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Genuine Chrysler Mopar accessory made from durable nylon mesh and designed to reduce turbulence and wind noise. The screen includes two velcro strips that attach to the roll bar and a heavy nylon cover that snaps behind the back of the convertible top to channel wind away from seating area.

Excellent stainless steel chrome side spears accessory for the PT Convertible. The kit simply fits over the existing moulldings using the pre applied 3M automotive tape. Fits all PT Convertibles 2004-2008

A chrome plated stainless steel set that adds so much style to the PT Cruiser convertible. The five pieces fit along the top of the doors, sides and rear of the car. A superbly made accessory that looks just perfect. Backed with 3M adhesive tape for a straightforward installation. Fits all PT Convertibles 2004-2008

Very popular PT Cruiser item, available as a 3 piece set for the PT convertible. These scuff guards are backed with 3M Redliner tape for very easy fitting. Fits all PT Convertibles 2004-2008