scag hydraulic pump leaking factory

I have watched a couple videos and while it doesn"t look too difficult none of the videos are of my exact pump and don"t cover every aspect in detail.

he took apart the hydraulic pump on a big ass genie type lift or excavator or something, I think...then couldn"t put it back together. so here comes the whole crew of a few construction guys, the owner and mechanic with a pump in a bunch of pieces and a bunch of parts.

it was a big ass 6 piston hydraulic pump. I put the seals on it, and had to hang it from the lift arm while I lifted the housing onto the pistons to get them all in there.

A variable displacement piston pump is a little more challenging than a simple gearrotor pump, but if the exact parts are available it shouldn"t be too big of a deal.

There generally aren"t to many tricks or special tools needed. Can you get the specific number off of the pump and look it up on the net and get an assembly breakdown? I wouldn"t even start unless I had that in hand. I am sure many of the ZTR mowers use standard pumps, or worse yet one big drive unit. On one that I worked on, one side ran the hydraulics for the deck lift and the other didn"t so they were slightly different.

There generally aren"t to many tricks or special tools needed. Can you get the specific number off of the pump and look it up on the net and get an assembly breakdown? I wouldn"t even start unless I had that in hand. I am sure many of the ZTR mowers use standard pumps, or worse yet one big drive unit. On one that I worked on, one side ran the hydraulics for the deck lift and the other didn"t so they were slightly different.

If it"s leaking my g5ues would be a seal or oring. OP says it runs fine. So it"s possiblly part #5, 8, 18? There has to be a rear seal but it"s hard to find in diagram. There are several needle valves and cross ports on the fat end that looks like an engine head which could leak too.

My first step would torque the pump assembly bolts to spec. See if any move and if so does the leak stop. Clean the housing up real good and mow the yard to see if new oil shows up. I"d try it before I even unbolted the pump from the mower....if you can get to said bolts. Check the pump housing for cracks. If the pump was over torqued during assembly or took a hit one of the tapped assembly bolt holes could have cracked and fatigued so the bolt has insufficient threads to hold torque.

Most likely the failure point is #13 which looks to be a standard shaft oil seal. If you are careful you should be able to get the seal out without dissembling the pump. Often we will drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw in slide hammer to extract it. You can probably find the oil seal at your local Motion Industries for like 5 bucks

If you’re asking how hard it’ll be you probably aren’t experienced enough to do it. Not trying to be use but this is a piston pump and there are quite a few moving parts. Hell I could be wrong but as a dude that’s been repairing hydraulic shit for a long time I’d trust the pro or buy a new pump.

About half of the pumps and cylinders that we get into our shop (mostly high pressure, 10,000 psi) have been "worked on" by the customer before we get them

PLEASE make sure you run the proper hydraulic fluid for the cylinder. I have seen a lot of pumps messed up running "cheap" alternatives to factory oil, it eats seals and bushings in a lot of case.

About half of the pumps and cylinders that we get into our shop (mostly high pressure, 10,000 psi) have been "worked on" by the customer before we get them

PLEASE make sure you run the proper hydraulic fluid for the cylinder. I have seen a lot of pumps messed up running "cheap" alternatives to factory oil, it eats seals and bushings in a lot of case.

View QuoteThe shop I talked to said that 9 times out of 10 it was the O ring. He said that if it was a seal that the pump would likely need to be replaced.

Timely thread. I have a scag turf tiger that is about 12 years old with about 750 hours on it. I replaced the wheel motor on the left side last year because it was leaking. The hydraulics on that side are now weak...it struggles to get up hills, and the other side can easily overpower it if I push the levers all the way forward.

If #13 is the leak just replace it and roll on and see what happens. It could have a piece of trash wrapped around the shaft causing it to leak. No pump disassembly required. Remove the snap ring, drill hole in seal and pull It out, install new one.

#5 is the only one that you should have to disassemble the pump to replace. If any of the other screw in fittings and valves are leaking just remove, replace seal and reinstall.

If you"re asking how hard it"ll be you probably aren"t experienced enough to do it. Not trying to be use but this is a piston pump and there are quite a few moving parts. Hell I could be wrong but as a dude that"s been repairing hydraulic shit for a long time I"d trust the pro or buy a new pump.

View QuoteIf you do have to take the pump apart just make sure everything stays super super clean and protected from any dings or scratches. And don"t force anything, possibly marring it. This is way more important than on something like changing that impeller.

Most likely the failure point is #13 which looks to be a standard shaft oil seal. If you are careful you should be able to get the seal out without dissembling the pump. Often we will drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw in slide hammer to extract it. You can probably find the oil seal at your local Motion Industries for like 5 bucks

If you do have to take the pump apart just make sure everything stays super super cleanand protected from any dings or scratches. And don"t force anything, possibly marring it. This is way more important than on something like changing that impeller.

View QuoteIf it were a gear, vane or gerotor pump I"d tell you to give it hell but a variable piston pump is not where I"d suggest getting your feet wet in hydraulics. There are small parts, things that need to be perfectly lined up and add to that the back plate is under some spring pressure. It makes it hard to tell if you"ve got it going together right. If you screw up putting it back together it may still work just long enough to send shrapnel into every other part of the hydraulic system.

Seriously, after removing the pump, wash the pump exterior absolutely clean before disassembly. Have a clean area prepped to lay out the parts when they are cleaned. The blue shop towels in the box are fairly lint free. I"d also have some crocus cloth handy to polish the seal surfaces on the shaft. Take some hydraulic fluid and mix 1:1 with STP oil additive for build up lube.

Its not hard at all but i have rebuilt a few variable displacement piston pumps. The hardest part is getting the piston and slippers back in. I usually wrap some 550 cord around them to hold them as i install the rotating assembly.

If you have no mechanical experience then a simple error will cause major problems. If it was a gear or vane pump, those are very basic and easy to repair.

If it were a gear, vane or gerotor pump I"d tell you to give it hell but a variable piston pump is not where I"d suggest getting your feet wet in hydraulics. There are small parts, things that need to be perfectly lined up and add to that the back plate is under some spring pressure. It makes it hard to tell if you"ve got it going together right. If you screw up putting it back together it may still work just long enough to send shrapnel into every other part of the hydraulic system.

Is it actually leaking/dripping or is it just a grimy buildup on it? If it"s not actually dripping then just keep running until it"s actually leaking enough to have a clean streak from the source of the leak.

Is it actually leaking/dripping or is it just a grimy buildup on it? If it"s not actually dripping then just keep running until it"s actually leaking enough to have a clean streak from the source of the leak.

I’m going to show you zero turn hydraulic pump troubleshooting. Hydraulic systems are used with zero turn mowers to provide the power that spins the wheels and lifts the mower deck. That’s why it’s important to do periodic maintenance on a zero turn mower.

The zero turn hydraulic pump low pressure is a warning light that lights up on the control panel of your mower when there is a problem with your mower’s hydraulic oil pump. The oil pump is what regulates the flow of oil to all of the other components in your mower, so if it fails, it can cause some serious problems. It’s important to diagnose and repair this problem as quickly as possible to avoid any damage to your mower.

Zero turn hydraulic pump Air Leak In Inlet Plumbing1) Replace your old worn out hoses with new ones from your local hydraulic supply house. Do not use cheap hoses from a hardware store! They will fail quickly and leak again!

2) Make sure the male end of the hose is securely attached to the female end and does not leak when you push and pull on it. If it does leak then tighten up or replace as needed until it stops leaking (use Teflon tape).

3) Make sure there are no kinks in your hoses anywhere along their length (especially where they go under things like mowers). This can cause a restriction in flow which will damage your pump (and maybe even ruin your engine).

Zero turn hydraulic pump Pressure Gauge Malfunction1: Check the pressure switch. The most common cause of zero turn hydraulic pump pressure gauge failure is the pressure switch. This component is usually located near the tank or reservoir and is responsible for detecting changes in pressure. When it fails, it sends an incorrect signal to the gauge, causing it to show incorrect readings.

2: Check for loose wiring connections or broken wires. If you’re having trouble with your zero turn hydraulic pump pressure gauge, check all of your wiring connections for loose or broken wires. Make sure that none of your wires have become disconnected from their respective terminals either at the pump or on the dashboard.

3: Test all of your sensors and hoses with a multimeter set at ohms mode so that you can test for continuity problems in hoses and other components that might be causing your zero turn hydraulic pump pressure gauge malfunction.

Zero turn Hydraulic Pump Worn Hydraulic Pump SealsZero turn hydraulic pump seals are a common problem for all zero turns. The hydraulic pump is used to power the steering and mower deck functions. If your hydraulic pump is leaking fluid, you may be losing oil from your engine. If you suspect that your zero turn hydraulic pump seal is worn or damaged and needs replacing.

Zero turn Hydraulic pump Belt SlippageThe first thing you need to do is check the tension on your lawn mower belt. If it’s loose or sloppy then tighten it up by using a wrench or socket set on your tractor. You can also use a simple screwdriver if you don’t have an adjustable wrench handy.

You will also want to check the air filter on your engine as well as all other filters such as fuel filters and fuel pumps in order to make sure they are clean and free from debris so that they can function properly when needed!

Leaky zero turn Hydraulic Pump Discharge Hose1)you want to do is mark where you’re going to cut your old hoses off so that you can put your new ones on in exactly the same place as your old ones were before they started leaking (you’ll see what I mean when you watch this part).

2) Then cut off both ends of your old h hoses and remove the old clamps from your fittings on the pump.zero turn hydraulic pump Low Pressure Solution table

If your zero turn mower is making noise, it can be caused by a variety of reasons. The easiest way to diagnose the problem is to find out how much noise you’re hearing. You will need to look at the different parts of your zero turn mower and determine what part is making the most noise.If it is a hydraulic pump, it can also be caused by the following reasons:

Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Loud Sucking NoiseThis is a common problem with zero turns and most people think it’s normal for them to make this noise. It’s not normal though and it’s actually caused by two things:

The first thing that causes this problem is air getting into your hydraulic system. This can happen if there’s a leak in your hydraulic line or if one of your fittings has come loose. The second thing that causes this problem is the filter inside the valve block becoming clogged with dirt and grass clippings.

Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Loud Screeching Noise1.Check the condition of the belt by placing your hand on top of it. If you feel tension, continue with step 2. If not, go on to step 3.

e) Clean up any oil stains you may have found on yourself or your gear before going home for the day (so as not to alarm anyone who might be waiting for you there).zero turn hydraulic pump Noise Solution table

The first thing you need to do is determine where the leak is coming from. If it’s coming out of the top of the pump, then it could simply be a loose fitting or seal that needs to be replaced. If it’s coming out of the side of the pump, then it is probably due to a worn out internal seal or bushing that needs to be replaced.

Another thing you can try if your leak is coming from within your hydraulic oil reservoir is simply adding more oil until you see no more drops falling onto your riding lawn mower deck or garage floor. This will usually solve any leaking issues for at least a few days until more leaks develop again due to continued wear and tear on parts inside your tractor’s pump system over time as well as temperature changes from the weather. If you’re still having problems with your riding lawn mower after trying these quick fixes, it’s time to look into hiring a professional mechanic or purchasing a new one altogether.

Worn Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Cankcase Oil SealsIf you are having a hard time seeing the oil level in your zero turn hydraulic pump cancass, it’s probably time to replace the worn out seals. This will allow you to see exactly how much fluid is in your pump so that you don’t run dry on the job.

Bad Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Bearing1, The first thing to check is the oil level. Check it with a dip stick or by removing the cap and looking at the oil. If you don’t see any oil, then fill up until it reaches full line.

2, check for air bubbles in your oil tank. This can be done by disconnecting the suction hose from your tank and putting it into a bucket of water. If there are air bubbles coming out of the suction hose, this means that your pump isn’t getting enough oil from your tank and will have to be replaced.

3, check for leaks in your system. Make sure there are no leaks coming from your unsealed valves or seals on your hydraulic system. If there are no obvious leaks coming from these areas, then you may need to rebuild or replace your entire hydraulic system as a whole unit.

Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Over-Filled CrankcaseZero turn mowers are easy to operate, but you should take care of them and follow the instructions for maintenance. If you follow the rules, you should not have any problems with your equipment. You can find more information about zero turn mower maintenance here.

Contaminated, Or Incorrect Oil For Zero Turn Hydraulic PumpThe most common cause of leakage from a hydraulic pump is using the wrong type of oil. Hydraulic oil comes in two different types; synthetic and mineral based. Synthetic oils contain additives that help keep it clean and free from debris and contaminants. Mineral oils are cheaper than synthetic oils and are used by many manufacturers on their zero turns.

However, they need to be changed more often because they tend to get contaminated quicker than synthetic oils do. The best way to check what type of hydraulic oil your machine uses is by looking at your owner’s manual before purchasing any new equipment for your zero turn mower.zero turn Hydraulic Pump Oli Leak Solution table

The zero turn hydraulic pump is a small, but very important part of your mower. The purpose of this mechanism is to deliver oil to each of the different hydraulic motors on your mower. Without proper lubrication, these components would not be able to operate properly. In some cases, however, excessive heat can cause problems with your zero turn hydraulic pump.

When a zero turn hydraulic pump overheats, your mower will not be able to move. This can be a serious problem if you have to cut your lawn on a hot day or if you have an important event coming up soon. In those situations you need to know how to fix your hydraulic pump so you can get back out there and get the job done.

The first thing that you want to do when troubleshooting your zero turn hydraulic pump is check for leaks. If there are any leaks in the system then you will need to replace all of the hoses and seals before moving forward with other repairs.

If your zero turn mower is leaking oil or hydraulic fluid, then you will need to replace the O-rings and seals on your engine. This will help prevent further wear and tear as well as leaks while preventing any further damage from occurring.

Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Easy Start/Quick Start Valve ProblemThe first thing that you should do when you have this problem is check the oil level in your hydraulic system. If it is low, then add some more so that it covers the bottom of the dipstick. Next, make sure there are no obstructions in the filter area or in any other part of the system. Check all of the hoses and make sure they are not kinked or damaged. If everything looks good and nothing seems out of place then check to see if your engine has any problems starting up.

Sticking Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump UnloaderThe common cause of a sticking pump unloader is the rubber diaphragm. It can become stuck in the pump housing and prevent normal operation of the unloader valve. The pump will continue to run, but no fluid will be allowed through the unloader valve. The first step in troubleshooting this problem is to check for hydraulic fluid leaks around the pump and hydraulic lines. If there are no leaks then you should replace the rubber diaphragm and replace any lost fluid.

Depending on your model of zero turn mower, you may have an electric clutch on your hydraulic system. This clutch works in conjunction with your brake pedal to apply and release pressure from your clutches. If this clutch sticks, it could prevent fluid from flowing through the unloader valve causing it to stick open or closed . To check this, you will need to disconnect the wiring harness from the electric clutch and spin the flywheel. If there is resistance when you turn it, then the clutch is sticking.Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Sudden Pressure Loss Solution table

Hydraulic pump water leakage is one of the most common problems with zero turn mowers. This type of leakage is due to a faulty seal or gasket. The hydraulic pump holds the oil that powers the machine. It is important that you find out what is causing the leak so that you can fix it before it causes any more damage to your mower.

Worn Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Low Pressure SealsThe hydraulic pump of a zero turn mower is responsible for providing the high pressure oil that powers the wheels. Over time, seals on a hydraulic pump can wear out or break. This will not only cause your mower to leak, but it can also lead to a loss of power and damage to other components of your machine. If you notice that your zero turn mower is leaking oil, it is time to replace these seals.

Step 1: Remove the Cables and Hoses:Start by disconnecting any cables or hoses connected to the hydraulic tank on your zero turn mower. Next, remove any bolts holding the tank onto its base plate with a socket wrench before lifting it off.

Step 2: Remove The Cover Plate & Lower Gasket:Next you will need to remove the cover plate which protects the low pressure seals from dirt and debris by removing all eight bolts holding it in place with a socket wrench. Once removed gently pry off the lower gasket located between the pump and base plate with a flathead screwdriver if necessary then set aside for later use if needed.

Step 3: Install New High Pressure Seals & Gaskets:install the new lower seal by placing it on top of the base plate and gently tapping it into place with a hammer or mallet until it is flat against the pump housing.

Worn Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump Sleeves Or CylindersYou will need to remove the old sleeves from your zero turn mower by removing the clutch cover. Once you have removed the cover, you will be able to see two bolts on either side of the sleeve. Use a wrench and remove these bolts. You may also need to use a hammer and chisel to remove any remaining pieces of metal left behind after you have removed the bolts.

Worn Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump AdapterIf you’re having trouble with your tractor’s tractor, there are some simple things you can do to fix it. This article will show you how to change the worn zero turn hydraulic pump adapter on your own.

Cracked Or Warped Zero Turn Hydraulic Pump ManifoldThe manifold is made from cast aluminum, which is prone to cracking. If you have a cracked manifold, it needs to be replaced as soon as possible because it can cause serious engine damage.

2) Remove all spark plugs and set them aside so they don’t get lost or damaged during this process. Remove all bolts holding down each cylinder head and set them aside too (they might be covered in oil). If there are any pipe seals on top of each cylinder head, remove those as well before proceeding further into this repair guide (they’re just there to keep dirt out of your engine).zero turn Hydraulic Pump Water Leaking Solution table

If you are experiencing any problems with your hydraulic pump, it is important to troubleshoot quickly. The following FAQ will help you troubleshoot and fix common issues related to your hydraulic pump.

The easiest way to check the pump is with a pressure gauge. If the pressure is low, you will need to replace the pump. The pressure should be between 70 and 90 psi for a normal running engine. If it is too high, or if the pressure fluctuates, you may have a leak in your hydraulics system. You can also use this test to verify that all of your fittings are tight and there aren’t any leaks in the lines or hoses.

If you don’t have a pressure gauge handy, it’s possible to use your eyes instead. Look at the front of the engine where the tubing connects to the pump head and see if there’s any movement or vibration while running. If it’s moving around, there may be an issue with that particular fitting or connection point in your system (or possibly elsewhere).

The cub cadet 48 inch zero turn mower has a hydraulic pump. The pump helps to move the deck up and down. When the pump fails, it is usually because of an issue with the oil seals or bearings. You can troubleshoot the problem by checking the oil level and making sure that there are no leaks from around the seals. If you find that your cub cadet 48 inch zero turn mower is leaking from around these areas then you will need to replace them. You can also check for loose bolts or worn out parts that may cause this problem. If none of these things fix your problem then it may be time for a new hydraulic pump or even a whole new mower if yours is too old or damaged beyond repair!

The Ariens Sport Zoom 1232 zero turn mower has a hydraulic pump that will cause problems if it fails. In this article, we will explain how to fix the mower when the hydraulic pump is not working properly.

The electric motor does not work when I turn on my mower deck. It only works sometimes when I turn on my mower deck. The most common cause is a bad controller board or a bad connection between the controller and hydraulic pump. Check for power at both ends of your hydraulic pump (on/off switch and hydraulic tank). If both ends are powered up, then there is likely some sort of connection issue between the two devices. This can be fixed by cleaning all electrical connections with rubbing alcohol and using dielectric grease on all connectors before reattaching them together again (see our video on how to do this).

There are many places you can buy a zero turn hydraulic pump. One of the best places to buy them is at your local dealer. If you don’t have one in your area, then you can always check out online stores that sell these parts.

Havlat’s article on zero turn hydraulic pump troubleshooting is both funny and insightful. He goes over the different types of pumps, and highlights some of their characteristics you need to keep in mind. If you are considering a buying a new zero turn mower, check this article out first. It will save you a lot of time and headaches.

The hydraulic drive system on your Turf Tiger has two pumps, two wheel motors, a single oil reservoir that supplies oil to the pumps and also receives the return oil from the pumps thru the oil filter.

From each pump there are two high pressure hoses that connect to their respective wheel motors. From the oil reservoir there are low pressure hoses that "tee" into two hoses that connect to the pump suction connections. Similarly there are two low pressure return hoses that "tee" to a single hose and connect to the oil filter. From the oil filter to the oil reservoir there is a single hose for the return oil to the reservoir. Some Turf Tigers have a duplex oil cooler installed in the return system.

A common failure for zero turn mower is the hydraulic pump. If the hydraulic system fails, the mower won’t get enough power to move. Finding out the source of the problem is a challenge in terms of these failures.

That’s why it’s important to know the steps of zero turn hydraulic pump troubleshooting. You need to purge the hydraulic drive system and check other parts and symptoms.

The most common problem with a Hydraulic pump is the mixture of water and air. Very often, the pump becomes full of air instead of oil, and as a result, it cannot generate enough pressure needed to provide power.

The temperature problem can be explained twofold. If the zero turn mower runs too cold or too hot, it can engender serious problems over time, such as preventing lubrication by making the mower out of hydraulic fluid.

It can also result in the oxidization of fluids. All these restrict the flow of oil to the pump. Another thing is the temperature of hydraulic fluid. If it’s too high, it can easily get contaminated, making the oil stale and defective.

The oil level is very important for the hydraulic pump to work with full efficiency. Low oil levels can create various problems in your mower. So you should always keep the mower filled with pure, clean recommended oil.

Push motion control levers to the full forward and hold them for five seconds. Now do the reverse. Repeat this 3-5 times. It will help purge the air from the hydraulic transmission system.

Carefully examine the internal parts of the pump to see if they are installed properly and functioning accordingly. Install them in the recommended way and replace the defective parts.

The hydraulic oil or fluid is the most crucial part of the pump. Check if the oil level is right. Also, make sure the oil is clean and has the recommended viscosity. Keep in mind that all oil is not appropriate for zero turn mower. Change old and sluggish fluids.

Check the lines and connections for possible leaks. Reconnect them if there is no leak and repair the leaks otherwise. Leaking can dry the oil reservoir up. So, make sure there are not any. If it still doesn’t work, you should replace the hydro components.

Once your hydraulic pump fails, its lifespan can become less even if you can fix the problem. That’s why it’s better to maintain the hydraulic system regularly. It will help a lot in terms of the longevity of the pump.

The main enemy of any hydraulic system is heat. By properly sizing the hydraulic oil reservoir, efficient hose routing, and the use of oil coolers and fans where needed, Scag drive systems have been designed to have normal operating temperatures well within the safe range of the hydraulic components using “standard” oil. Using larger oil tanks, oil coolers and fans (where needed) does add additional cost to the manufacturing process, however, we feel that this extra attention to performance, longevity and value is one of the many reasons people decide to “step up” to a Scag mower.

The “requirement” to use synthetic oil in a mower is generally the result of producing a machine with a hydro system that has an operating temperature that can exceed the temperature range of the hydraulic components. These systems usually have very small oil reservoirs located in an area without sufficient airflow (due to limited space on the mower) and do not use oil coolers or fans. This is a less expensive way to manufacture mowers, however, the extra cost of the synthetic oil (synthetic oil is normally four to five times the cost of standard oil) is a burden that you, the customer, will have to pay.

Occasionally customers inquire about switching the hydro oil in their new Scag to synthetic. While there is nothing in the drive system that could be damaged from its use, as outlined above, it is certainly not necessary. We do suggest that they wait until after the initial break-in period before making the switch, if desired.

Being independently owned means our design decisions are not compromised by a large corporate office that also sells sprinklers, vacuum cleaners or “widgets.” We are not forced to manufacture products that are just “good enough.” The entire Scag Team focuses all of its resources on designing, manufacturing and assembling the finest commercial-grade lawn mowers money can buy.

Every mower starts off as sheet steel or tube steel. We punch, press, bend, cut, weld, paint, assemble, package and ship our mowers, and we do it all in our three factories in Mayville, West Bend and Beaver Dam, Wisconsin. Scag makes Scag mowers; nobody else makes them for us… and we do not make mowers for other companies.

Being independently owned means our design decisions are not compromised by a large corporate office that also sells sprinklers, vacuum cleaners or “widgets.” We are not forced to manufacture products that are just “good enough.” The entire Scag Team focuses all of its resources on designing, manufacturing and assembling the finest commercial-grade lawn mowers money can buy.

Every mower starts off as sheet steel or tube steel. We punch, press, bend, cut, weld, paint, assemble, package and ship our mowers, and we do it all in our three factories in Mayville, West Bend and Beaver Dam, Wisconsin. Scag makes Scag mowers; nobody else makes them for us… and we do not make mowers for other companies.

Since 1983, Scag Power Equipment has been producing heavy-duty, commercial and residential mowers. This gives us the experience needed to know what really works, and what doesn’t. We listen to our customers and constantly make the changes needed to meet their needs. In fact, every Scag mower receives many improvements and enhancements on a constant basis. Even the smallest improvements are important in creating the “Simply the Best” commercial-grade lawn mowers on the market. This constant product evolution has enabled us to retain our title as the premiere commercial-mower line in the industry. You can find less expensive mowers; however, you get what you pay for.

Since 1983, Scag Power Equipment has been producing heavy-duty, commercial and residential mowers. This gives us the experience needed to know what really works, and what doesn’t. We listen to our customers and constantly make the changes needed to meet their needs. In fact, every Scag mower receives many improvements and enhancements on a constant basis. Even the smallest improvements are important in creating the “Simply the Best” commercial-grade lawn mowers on the market. This constant product evolution has enabled us to retain our title as the premiere commercial-mower line in the industry. You can find less expensive mowers; however, you get what you pay for.

We employ an elite group of research and development specialists, designers and engineers dedicated to producing commercial mowers that cut faster, cut better, last longer and ultimately make you more profitable. Computer-aided design (CAD) and Pro-E combined with computer numerical control (CNC) and hands-on fabrication are utilized in the initial creation of every product. Every Scag model is operated extensively in specialized laboratories that utilize sophisticated, computerized testing equipment. The laboratory testing process is handled by a dedicated Test Engineering Team. This initial testing stage allows us to closely monitor mower and individual-component performance to quickly identify any potential improvements that can be made. We also use test facilities in various locations across North America in various climates and grass types.

We employ an elite group of research and development specialists, designers and engineers dedicated to producing commercial mowers that cut faster, cut better, last longer and ultimately make you more profitable. Computer-aided design (CAD) and Pro-E combined with computer numerical control (CNC) and hands-on fabrication are utilized in the initial creation of every product. Every Scag model is operated extensively in specialized laboratories that utilize sophisticated, computerized testing equipment. The laboratory testing process is handled by a dedicated Test Engineering Team. This initial testing stage allows us to closely monitor mower and individual-component performance to quickly identify any potential improvements that can be made. We also use test facilities in various locations across North America in various climates and grass types.

Scag products are fabricated at our parent company, Metalcraft of Mayville, Inc., one of the largest independently owned manufacturers of commercial and residential power equipment in North America. Metalcraft also manufactures thousands of various components for a number of Fortune 500 companies in the construction, forestry, agriculture and material-handling industries, as well as for the U.S. Military.

Scag Power Equipment is one of the last commercial power-equipment companies that actually manufactures their own components. Other mower “manufacturers” are simply assemblers, bolting together parts that other companies have made for them. In fact, every “Scag Gold” component on our mowers is manufactured from scratch by Scag (except for the wheels and ROPS). Sheet metal and tube steel comes in one end of the factory and the world’s best commercial lawn mowers go out the other end. Manufacturing our own component parts allows us greater flexibility in design and more control over the quality of the parts we use in our mowers. Ultimately, we control our own destiny and are able to react quickly with new designs and product enhancements.

Scag mowers are assembled by highly trained individuals using the latest technologies. Each mower is run at the end of the assembly line to ensure that the following items are up to specification: engine RPM is set, all safety switches are checked for proper operation, fluids are filled, systems are checked for leaks, and neutral and tracking adjustments are set using special dynamometers that apply load to the drive system. These steps add to the value of every Scag mower and ensure the product is the best it can be when it leaves our factory.

Details, details, details. We encourage you to take the time to really examine our mowers and compare them to the “competition.” Pay special attention to the details like ease of service, wiring harness looms and routing, weld quality, component fit and construction, and the operator’s platform. There are lots of mower companies, but only one is the best. We encourage you to see for yourself that Scag is the best by taking the time to really examine the details. It will not take long to find the many differences that place Scag in front of the pack.

Scag products are fabricated at our parent company, Metalcraft of Mayville, Inc., one of the largest independently owned manufacturers of commercial and residential power equipment in North America. Metalcraft also manufactures thousands of various components for a number of Fortune 500 companies in the construction, forestry, agriculture and material-handling industries, as well as for the U.S. Military.

Scag Power Equipment is one of the last commercial power-equipment companies that actually manufactures their own components. Other mower “manufacturers” are simply assemblers, bolting together parts that other companies have made for them. In fact, every “Scag Gold” component on our mowers is manufactured from scratch by Scag (except for the wheels and ROPS). Sheet metal and tube steel comes in one end of the factory and the world’s best commercial lawn mowers go out the other end. Manufacturing our own component parts allows us greater flexibility in design and more control over the quality of the parts we use in our mowers. Ultimately, we control our own destiny and are able to react quickly with new designs and product enhancements.

Scag mowers are assembled by highly trained individuals using the latest technologies. Each mower is run at the end of the assembly line to ensure that the following items are up to specification: engine RPM is set, all safety switches are checked for proper operation, fluids are filled, systems are checked for leaks, and neutral and tracking adjustments are set using special dynamometers that apply load to the drive system. These steps add to the value of every Scag mower and ensure the product is the best it can be when it leaves our factory.

Details, details, details. We encourage you to take the time to really examine our mowers and compare them to the “competition.” Pay special attention to the details like ease of service, wiring harness looms and routing, weld quality, component fit and construction, and the operator’s platform. There are lots of mower companies, but only one is the best. We encourage you to see for yourself that Scag is the best by taking the time to really examine the details. It will not take long to find the many differences that place Scag in front of the pack.

Since 1983, Scag Power Equipment has been producing heavy-duty, commercial mowers. This gives us the experience needed to know what really works, and what doesn’t. We listen to our customers, and constantly make the changes needed to meet their needs. In fact, every Scag mower receives many improvements and enhancements on a constant basis. Even the smallest improvements are important in creating the “Simply the Best” commercial mowers on the market. This constant product evolution has enabled us to retain our title as the premiere commercial-mower line in the industry. You can find less expensive mowers; however, you get what you pay for.

Since 1983, Scag Power Equipment has been producing heavy-duty, commercial mowers. This gives us the experience needed to know what really works, and what doesn’t. We listen to our customers, and constantly make the changes needed to meet their needs. In fact, every Scag mower receives many improvements and enhancements on a constant basis. Even the smallest improvements are important in creating the “Simply the Best” commercial mowers on the market. This constant product evolution has enabled us to retain our title as the premiere commercial-mower line in the industry. You can find less expensive mowers; however, you get what you pay for.

We understand the importance of “no downtime” and what it means to your business. Because of this, we sell our products through a worldwide distributor and dealer network. Every distributor of Scag equipment has their own parts department, technical service department and sales department to better serve the Scag dealer and ultimately you, the Scag customer. Using distribution ensures local parts availability and it gives the Scag dealer a local source for technical service, parts and sales support.

The Scag Factory Technical Service Department is in constant communication with our field representatives, regional and distribution managers, dealers and customers. Rest assured that in the unlikely event of any trouble, the entire Scag family will be there to help. Click here for a list of Scag dealers in your area.

We understand the importance of “no downtime” and what it means to your business. Because of this, we sell our products through a worldwide distributor and dealer network. Every distributor of Scag equipment has their own parts department, technical service department and sales department to better serve the Scag dealer and ultimately you, the Scag customer. Using distribution ensures local parts availability and it gives the Scag dealer a local source for technical service, parts and sales support.

The Scag Factory Technical Service Department is in constant communication with our field representatives, regional and distribution managers, dealers and customers. Rest assured that in the unlikely event of any trouble, the entire Scag family will be there to help. Click here for a list of Scag dealers in your area.

The pump is probably the component most subject to wear in a hydraulic system, and the one most likely to cause a sudden or gradual failure in the system.

Hydraulic pumps are used in almost every type of production system, from plastic mold injection machines to the common conveyor belt. With proper maintenance, most hydraulic pumps will operate smoothly for years, but eventually, the pressure inside these devices will cause failures that need to be addressed as soon as possible. Below are a few signs you should have your pump taken to a machine shop for repairs.

If your system is suffering from any of these symptoms, then that could be a clear sign that you need to repair, clean, or replace parts of your system. Never let your system run if it’s suffering from any of these problems – they are a real indicator that something is wrong and could result in serious damage to your hydraulics.

Hydraulic pumps are designed to work quietly, but as parts wear down and seals deteriorate, you may begin to notice unusual noises. Banging and knocking sounds usually indicate air in the system or cavitation caused by insufficient pressure, which can have serious consequences if not corrected immediately. In many cases, these problems can be eliminated by identifying the point at which air is entering the system and taking steps to correct it.

Many hydraulic leaks occur inside the machine, with no exterior signs of a malfunction. However, you may notice decreased performance, sudden drops in pressure, or oil on the outside of the pump in the case of exterior leaks. In many cases, tightening or replacing a valve or seal may correct the problem before it leads to system-wide failure.

If your seals continuously leak and fail, your pump may be operating with a bent or misaligned rod. Depending on the extent of the damage, a skilled machine shop may be able to repair your existing equipment, allowing you to get the most out of your equipment and minimizing costs.

We are a full service Hydraulic Contractor. We provide field services to Marine and Industrial customers. We provide shop services including, manufacturing, machining, welding, fabrications, remanufacturing of components, and have years of experience in the repair, replacement, and rebuilding of hydraulic components including hydraulic cylinders, hoses, hydrostatic, pumps, etc.

Combustion engines, like those found in most cars, transfer power to the vehicle’s axle, which turns the wheels. Hydrostatic transmissions found in most modern tractors and zero-turn mowers, work by transferring power from the engine to hydraulic pumps which use liquid pressure to move the wheels. There’s no need for gears, and changing speed is smooth and efficient.

Zero turn hydrostatic transmission problems can start with air in the system, a condition known as cavitation. When the pump is full of air instead of oil, it can’t generate the pressure needed to provide power. This is pretty common in zero-turn mower transmissions. After your mower has been stored for the winter, it’s a good idea to purge the transmission before use. It’s also a good first step if your motor is sluggish or slow.

If your system is purged and you still have a problem, it’s time to do a little basic troubleshooting. Start with a complete visual check of the hydraulic system.

Sluggish operation is often due to old or overused fluids. If there are no signs of fluid leaks or damage, it may be time to change your hydraulic and steering fluids.

If you need help troubleshooting your tractor’s hydraulic system, call your dealer. Their service department should be able to ask the right questions, give suggestions, and you can make an appointment for service if necessary.

Every hydraulic pump makes some noise. If all is well with a pump, then this noise stays more or less the same. However, if something goes wrong with the pump or its connected system parts, then you may start to hear sounds that you haven"t heard before.

The fluid that flows through your system needs to move at a smooth and even rate. The pump has to deliver the fluid at a specific flow for things to work.

If something prevents the fluid from achieving and maintaining its optimum flow, then your pump may start to make unusual noises. For example, you may hear a high-pitched whine coming from the pump. This can be a constant or intermittent sound.

If your pump whines constantly, then you may have a cavitation problem. Here, the pump can"t deliver its fluid at the right volume or rate. There isn"t enough fluid coming through the pump"s suction line.

In some cases, this is a sign that your pump"s motor is on the wrong setting. So, the pump itself is working at the wrong speed to create the right flow.

A hydraulic pump might get noisy if one of its parts or connections has a problem. A faulty or failing pressure control, bearing, valve, seal, or coupling can make a noise you haven"t heard before.

In some cases, you may hear vibrating clunks as your pump works if you have a problem with a connecting pipe. A loose seal or connector might allow the pipe to move. It then passes vibrations along to the pump itself.

While some noise problems are easy to fix, some are a sign that your pump is close to the end of its working life. Sometimes, this is due to natural wear, usage, and age. However, in some cases, minor problems cause more widespread damage if you don"t fix them quickly.

For example, if you"ve had cavitation problems for a while, then your system may not have been getting the lubrication it needs; it may have overheated regularly. Even if you fix the cavitation issue, you may be left with a damaged pump that needs a more significant repair, rebuild, or replacement.

So, while new sounds or an increase in operating noise don"t necessarily mean that you have a serious pump problem, you should investigate any unusual noise. Typically, this is a sign that something isn"t working right.

A minor problem in your system could go on to cause significant damage. For an expert diagnosis, contact Quad Fluid Dynamics, Inc. Ourhydraulic pump repair and rebuild servicewill get your pump running smoothly and efficiently again.

Yes, you may use the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak to seal a leak in the hydraulics for your convertible top. We have successfully used it for this in the past. You will only need to add about 1 ounce of the BlueDevil due to the small capacity. Keep in mind, it may take a few days before you notice results. Overall, the product carries a success rate of about 95%.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use with 15w-40 Rotella oil. You should expect to start seeing results after 1-2 hours of operation.

Will it work for 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee power steering pump leak? I’ve been told to only use the specified power steering fluid for this car, so I am bit concerned to use any stop leak fluids. Do you think it might work?

Thank you for asking about your Jeep Grand Cherokee. Unfortunately, BlueDevil would not be able to seal a leaking power steering pump. Because of the extreme pressure and the pump pushing fluid through the system, the product would not be able to stay in the pump to be able to seal it. Replacing the power steering pump would be your best option.

BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak would work to seal leaks coming from rubber seals/gaskets. It would not be able to seal leaking lines or hoses. Replacing the lines may be your best option.

You would use one oz. of the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak per quart of hydraulic fluid in the system. The product is intended to treat rubber seals. If the leak is coming from an o ring or another rubber component, and you are not losing fluid too quickly, the product should be able to seal.

The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible for the application you’ve described. You will use one oz. of the product per quart of fluid capacity. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use in your Jaguar XK8. You will use one oz. of the product per quart of fluid capacity. Expect to start seeing results after 1-2 hours of operation.

The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak would only have an effect on rubber seals/gaskets. It would not seal leaking pressure lines or hoses. Replacing the line would be your best option.

John Deere backhoe 1973 that has 30w non deterrent oil for hydraulic oil. What would you suggest for it because someone put it wrong oil and all cylinders started leaking.

Hi, my saab 2004 has a ram in its roof which is leaking. I have tried some thing already bt could not work. I live in western australia. First tell me that is really going to work??? And how can i get it?

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak can be used with TD-3 hydraulic fluid. You will be using one oz of the product per quart of fluid in the system.

Yes, you would be able to use the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak in your Mercedes. You will be using one oz of the product per quart of fluid in the system.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use on your John Deere. You would use one oz. of the product per quart of fluid in the system. Expect to start seeing results after 1-2 hours of operation.

No, BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak does not harden or thicken at any point. However, it is not designed to seal the type of leak you are experiencing. BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is specifically made to stop fluid loss originating from rubber seals/gaskets.

In most cases a hydraulic cylinder leak is due to the hydraulic seals leaking. If that is the case, BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak will work to stop any fluid loss.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak would be safe to use in your John Deere lawn mower. You will be using 1 oz of the product per quart of fluid in the system. Feel free to contact our technical support team at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Yes, BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is compatible to use in the ATF Dex 2 Fluid. You should add 1 ounce of BlueDevil per every 1 quart of fluid capacity. Once added, you can expect to start seeing results after about 1 – 2 hours of use.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe for use in your Exmark zero turn mower. The product does not harden or thicken in any way, so it would not have any adverse affects on the pump operation.

Thanks for your question about your log splitter. If you are getting hydraulic fluid leaking through the hose then it is most likely that there are some hairline cracks in the hose and your best bet would be to replace it. You may be able to purchase a replacement hose from the manufacturer, or you can try getting a new hydraulic hose made at one of your local auto parts stores.

The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak will revitalize and recondition the rubbers in the system, and swell or expand them back to their original state. It will not overexpand the rubber or damage any new or rebuilt seals. Feel free to contact our technical support team at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Based on your description, we recommend using the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak. You will be using one oz of the product per quart of fluid in the system.

Thank you for asking about your Chrysler Sebring. Based on your description, it sounds like you may have an issue with the power steering pump. Unfortunately, we do not manufacture a product intended to seal a leaking power steering pump. A hard part repair may be your best option.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak would be able to seal the leak on your Terex. You will be using one ounce of the product per quart of fluid in the system. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Thank you for asking about your Johnson outboard motor. Based on your description, we would recommend using the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak. You will be using one ounce of the product per quart of fluid in the system. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Thank you for asking about your Stingray 185 lx. The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak in only intended for the rubbers in the system. Based on your description, it seems like your leak is coming from the metal fitting, which the product would not have any effect on. A hard part repair may be your best option.

Yes, it is safe to use the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak on your farm tractor. You will be using 1 oz. of the product per quart of fluid in the system.

I have a 1999 Jaguar XK8. A portion of one of its hydraulic hoses that operate the convertible roof had been replaced and reconnected to the old hose with a fitting that goes on top of the hose’s outer skin. This fitting is now leaking oil probably because the skin of the old hose cracked (it’s a known problem). The system uses Pentosin CHS-11 hydraulic fluid.

Thank you for asking about your Jaguar XK8. The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is intended for the rubber seals in the system. It will revitalize and recondition the rubbers in the system and swell, or expand them back to their original state. Yes, the product is compatible with Pentosin CHS-11. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Yes, BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak (http://store.gobdp.com/hydraulic-stop-leak-00238-00239/) is 100% safe to use in a John Deere backhoe. You should add 1 ounce of BlueDevil per every 1 quart of fluid capacity. Expect to start seeing results after 1 – 2 hours of use.

Thank you for asking about your Nissan. The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is only intended for rubber seals/gaskets. Unfortunately, BlueDevil doesn’t manufacture a product for the type of leak you have described. A hard part repair may be your best option.

Can your product will be used in aluminium cold rolling mill hydraulic system where we are using a heavy normal paraffin based hydraulic oil with viscosity of 32cst?

Thank you for your question. The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is only intended for, and will only have an affect on the rubbers in the system. It does not harden or thicken in anyway, so it would not have any adverse affects on the system. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Based on your description, we would recommend using the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak, http://store.gobdp.com/hydraulic-stop-leak-00238-00239/ . The product will only have an effect on the rubbers in the system. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Based on your description, we would recommend using the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak http://store.gobdp.com/hydraulic-stop-leak-00238-00239/. You will be using one oz. of the product per quart of fluid in the system.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use with mil spec 5606 fluid. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use in your Cat 262 skidsteer. You should expect improvement after about 2 hours of operation.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hyrdraulic Stop Leak (http://store.gobdp.com/products/) is safe and compatible to use in your stand up forklift using Hydraulic oil 68. You should expect to see results after about 2 hours of operation.

If it is the rubber seal or gasket leaking then BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak will work to stop the leak.  You should add 1 ounce of BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak per every 1 quart of capacity; do not add more than recommended amount.  Expect to start seeing results after approximately 1 – 2 hours of use.

Thank you for asking about your Motorhome. The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak (http://store.gobdp.com/hydraulic-stop-leak-00238-00239/) is only intended for the rubber seals/gaskets in the system. If the leak is coming from one of those rubber seals/gaskets, then we would recommend using the product for this type of application.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak (http://store.gobdp.com/hydraulic-stop-leak-00238-00239/) is safe and compatible to use on your John Deere 425. You will be using one oz. of the product per quart of fluid in the system.

Yes, BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak has been successful in this exact application in the past. You should apply 1 ounce of BlueDevil per every 1 quart of fluid capacity. Expect to start seeing results after approximately 1 – 2 hours of use of your tractor.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use with pentosin chf 7.1. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak would be able to stop the leaks in your Tigercat 720 Feller Buncher, however, you would be using one oz. of the product per quart of fluid in the system. For a 70 gallon system, you would need a little more than 2 gallons of the BlueDevil Hyrdraulic Stop Leak (http://store.gobdp.com/hydraulic-stop-leak-00238-00239/) to properly treat the system. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

I have a Cat 303.5C CR mini excavator using CAT HYDO ADVANCED 10 HYDRAULIC OIL SAE 10W. Is you product safe to use with this hydraulic system? If a trace die is added to the system as well to assist in finding the leak, with this have any negative interaction with your product?

Yes, you would be able to add the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak to the system you have described. The product does not harden or thicken in anyway, so it would not have any adverse affects on the system. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use on a SeaStar hydraulic fluid system. You will use one oz. of the product per quart of fluid in the system. You may want to contact the dealer for a capacity of the hydraulic fluid to properly treat the system.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak would be safe and compatible to use on your Bad Boy mower using 20W-50 motor oil. The product does not harden or thicken in anyway, so it would not have any adverse affects on the system. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

Thank you for asking about your Insuladome skylight. In order to get the benefit of using the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak, the skylight would actually need to be able to operate. Replacing the piston may be your best option.

Yes, you can use the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak in the hydraulic crane you have described. one gallon of the product would treat up to 20 gallons of fluid.

Thank you for asking about your ASV skid steer. The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak in only intended for rubber seals/gaskets in the hydraulic system. Based on your description, it is difficult to say exactly where the leak is coming from, however, the product does not harden or thicken in anyway, so it would not have any adverse affects on the system, regardless of where the leak is coming from. With the product, you should expect to see results after about 1-2 hours of operation.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use on your 318 John Deere garden tractor. You should expect to see results after about 100-200 miles of driving.

I have a Gravely Promaster 300 mower with a hydraulic deck lift. I noticed the other day that there was some hydraulic fluid leaking from the cylinder. Does this product seal mower hydraulic cylinders from small leaks?

Thank you for asking about your Gravely Promaster 300 mower. The BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is intended to restore dried, cracked, and shrunken rubber seals. If the leak is indeed coming from one of those seals, you would be a great candidate for the product.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use in a case 580 hydraulic system. You will use one oz. of the product per quart of fluid in the system.

Yes, the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is safe and compatible to use on an RV. You will use one oz. of the product per quart of fluid in the system. Feel free to contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 with any other questions.

I have 2006 Range Rover sport with ACE anti-roll bars, the rear one is leaking fluid which i take its coming from a seal in the ram, the fluid i am using is Cold Climate PSF, will your Blue Devil stop my leak please.

Thank you for asking about your Range Rover Sport. As long as the leak is not more than a seep or a light drip, you would be a good candidate for the BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak. You should expect to see results after approximately 1-2 hours of operation.

Thank you for asking about your Ford 3000. Based on your description, we recommend draining the fluid complet