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I have watched a couple videos and while it doesn"t look too difficult none of the videos are of my exact pump and don"t cover every aspect in detail.

he took apart the hydraulic pump on a big ass genie type lift or excavator or something, I think...then couldn"t put it back together. so here comes the whole crew of a few construction guys, the owner and mechanic with a pump in a bunch of pieces and a bunch of parts.

it was a big ass 6 piston hydraulic pump. I put the seals on it, and had to hang it from the lift arm while I lifted the housing onto the pistons to get them all in there.

A variable displacement piston pump is a little more challenging than a simple gearrotor pump, but if the exact parts are available it shouldn"t be too big of a deal.

There generally aren"t to many tricks or special tools needed. Can you get the specific number off of the pump and look it up on the net and get an assembly breakdown? I wouldn"t even start unless I had that in hand. I am sure many of the ZTR mowers use standard pumps, or worse yet one big drive unit. On one that I worked on, one side ran the hydraulics for the deck lift and the other didn"t so they were slightly different.

There generally aren"t to many tricks or special tools needed. Can you get the specific number off of the pump and look it up on the net and get an assembly breakdown? I wouldn"t even start unless I had that in hand. I am sure many of the ZTR mowers use standard pumps, or worse yet one big drive unit. On one that I worked on, one side ran the hydraulics for the deck lift and the other didn"t so they were slightly different.

If it"s leaking my g5ues would be a seal or oring. OP says it runs fine. So it"s possiblly part #5, 8, 18? There has to be a rear seal but it"s hard to find in diagram. There are several needle valves and cross ports on the fat end that looks like an engine head which could leak too.

My first step would torque the pump assembly bolts to spec. See if any move and if so does the leak stop. Clean the housing up real good and mow the yard to see if new oil shows up. I"d try it before I even unbolted the pump from the mower....if you can get to said bolts. Check the pump housing for cracks. If the pump was over torqued during assembly or took a hit one of the tapped assembly bolt holes could have cracked and fatigued so the bolt has insufficient threads to hold torque.

Most likely the failure point is #13 which looks to be a standard shaft oil seal. If you are careful you should be able to get the seal out without dissembling the pump. Often we will drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw in slide hammer to extract it. You can probably find the oil seal at your local Motion Industries for like 5 bucks

If you’re asking how hard it’ll be you probably aren’t experienced enough to do it. Not trying to be use but this is a piston pump and there are quite a few moving parts. Hell I could be wrong but as a dude that’s been repairing hydraulic shit for a long time I’d trust the pro or buy a new pump.

About half of the pumps and cylinders that we get into our shop (mostly high pressure, 10,000 psi) have been "worked on" by the customer before we get them

PLEASE make sure you run the proper hydraulic fluid for the cylinder. I have seen a lot of pumps messed up running "cheap" alternatives to factory oil, it eats seals and bushings in a lot of case.

About half of the pumps and cylinders that we get into our shop (mostly high pressure, 10,000 psi) have been "worked on" by the customer before we get them

PLEASE make sure you run the proper hydraulic fluid for the cylinder. I have seen a lot of pumps messed up running "cheap" alternatives to factory oil, it eats seals and bushings in a lot of case.

View QuoteThe shop I talked to said that 9 times out of 10 it was the O ring. He said that if it was a seal that the pump would likely need to be replaced.

Timely thread. I have a scag turf tiger that is about 12 years old with about 750 hours on it. I replaced the wheel motor on the left side last year because it was leaking. The hydraulics on that side are now weak...it struggles to get up hills, and the other side can easily overpower it if I push the levers all the way forward.

If #13 is the leak just replace it and roll on and see what happens. It could have a piece of trash wrapped around the shaft causing it to leak. No pump disassembly required. Remove the snap ring, drill hole in seal and pull It out, install new one.

#5 is the only one that you should have to disassemble the pump to replace. If any of the other screw in fittings and valves are leaking just remove, replace seal and reinstall.

If you"re asking how hard it"ll be you probably aren"t experienced enough to do it. Not trying to be use but this is a piston pump and there are quite a few moving parts. Hell I could be wrong but as a dude that"s been repairing hydraulic shit for a long time I"d trust the pro or buy a new pump.

View QuoteIf you do have to take the pump apart just make sure everything stays super super clean and protected from any dings or scratches. And don"t force anything, possibly marring it. This is way more important than on something like changing that impeller.

Most likely the failure point is #13 which looks to be a standard shaft oil seal. If you are careful you should be able to get the seal out without dissembling the pump. Often we will drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw in slide hammer to extract it. You can probably find the oil seal at your local Motion Industries for like 5 bucks

If you do have to take the pump apart just make sure everything stays super super cleanand protected from any dings or scratches. And don"t force anything, possibly marring it. This is way more important than on something like changing that impeller.

View QuoteIf it were a gear, vane or gerotor pump I"d tell you to give it hell but a variable piston pump is not where I"d suggest getting your feet wet in hydraulics. There are small parts, things that need to be perfectly lined up and add to that the back plate is under some spring pressure. It makes it hard to tell if you"ve got it going together right. If you screw up putting it back together it may still work just long enough to send shrapnel into every other part of the hydraulic system.

Seriously, after removing the pump, wash the pump exterior absolutely clean before disassembly. Have a clean area prepped to lay out the parts when they are cleaned. The blue shop towels in the box are fairly lint free. I"d also have some crocus cloth handy to polish the seal surfaces on the shaft. Take some hydraulic fluid and mix 1:1 with STP oil additive for build up lube.

Its not hard at all but i have rebuilt a few variable displacement piston pumps. The hardest part is getting the piston and slippers back in. I usually wrap some 550 cord around them to hold them as i install the rotating assembly.

If you have no mechanical experience then a simple error will cause major problems. If it was a gear or vane pump, those are very basic and easy to repair.

If it were a gear, vane or gerotor pump I"d tell you to give it hell but a variable piston pump is not where I"d suggest getting your feet wet in hydraulics. There are small parts, things that need to be perfectly lined up and add to that the back plate is under some spring pressure. It makes it hard to tell if you"ve got it going together right. If you screw up putting it back together it may still work just long enough to send shrapnel into every other part of the hydraulic system.

Is it actually leaking/dripping or is it just a grimy buildup on it? If it"s not actually dripping then just keep running until it"s actually leaking enough to have a clean streak from the source of the leak.

Is it actually leaking/dripping or is it just a grimy buildup on it? If it"s not actually dripping then just keep running until it"s actually leaking enough to have a clean streak from the source of the leak.

scag <a href='https://www.ruidapetroleum.com/product/47'>hydraulic</a> <a href='https://www.ruidapetroleum.com/product/49'>pump</a> leaking quotation

1. Assuming you moved the unit w/o bypassing hyd. you likely blew the pump shaft seal at the time of your initial repair. There should be (or sometimes is) a lever to allow the fluid to go back to tank for freewheeling. Relief should have saved it, but it could have been mal-adjusted from go. I bet it was hard to push until it went over relief?

1. Relief started to weep a little for an undeterminded reason- as hydro sytems age, things start to weep. Weeping isn"t a symptom of bypass- once the relief opens, it just goes back to tank. In fact, you ever stall the hydraulics going up a hill or through a ditch? Makes a whining noise with no movement? That"s going over relief.

3. Either the pump seal decided to let go at the time of the initial repair, or the pushing it over relief caused it, sounds like the shaft seal failed first (obvious, right?) but the metal noise means pump failure, or worse- you cooked both pumps, the other pump, or one or both of the drive motors beacuse of a lack of oil (we don"t know where). Remember, the oil on that system is not closed loop it"s just normal (meaning both pumps share a common reservoir). So, yeah, you may have a catastrophically leaking shaft seal, but you may have killed the other pump, one or both of the motors, or the pump you are diagnosing because of oil starvation due to seal failure at the leaky pump.

ETA- read your last post. Rotating group on the pump or shaft bearing/bushing sounds like it"s shot. You are probably in the right direction, but no guarantees something else didn"t die in the process- i.e. motor seals are good, but the rotating group is scarred, causing internal leakage and loss of performance.

scag <a href='https://www.ruidapetroleum.com/product/47'>hydraulic</a> <a href='https://www.ruidapetroleum.com/product/49'>pump</a> leaking quotation

The main enemy of any hydraulic system is heat. By properly sizing the hydraulic oil reservoir, efficient hose routing, and the use of oil coolers and fans where needed, Scag drive systems have been designed to have normal operating temperatures well within the safe range of the hydraulic components using “standard” oil. Using larger oil tanks, oil coolers and fans (where needed) does add additional cost to the manufacturing process, however, we feel that this extra attention to performance, longevity and value is one of the many reasons people decide to “step up” to a Scag mower.

The “requirement” to use synthetic oil in a mower is generally the result of producing a machine with a hydro system that has an operating temperature that can exceed the temperature range of the hydraulic components. These systems usually have very small oil reservoirs located in an area without sufficient airflow (due to limited space on the mower) and do not use oil coolers or fans. This is a less expensive way to manufacture mowers, however, the extra cost of the synthetic oil (synthetic oil is normally four to five times the cost of standard oil) is a burden that you, the customer, will have to pay.

Occasionally customers inquire about switching the hydro oil in their new Scag to synthetic. While there is nothing in the drive system that could be damaged from its use, as outlined above, it is certainly not necessary. We do suggest that they wait until after the initial break-in period before making the switch, if desired.

scag <a href='https://www.ruidapetroleum.com/product/47'>hydraulic</a> <a href='https://www.ruidapetroleum.com/product/49'>pump</a> leaking quotation

The pump whether manual, air or electrically driven takes longer to start actuating the cylinder -All the pumping before the cylinder moves is the time it takes for the air in the system to be compressed enough to start moving the actuator.

Air being introduced into a hydraulic system can causeCavitationand in turn possibly cause severe damage to moving parts and potentially a dangerous situation to the user and anybody else around the hydraulic system or related machinery.  This would most likely be an issue with high flow type systems, not with manually operated tools and jacks and hydraulic press set-ups that don’t operate at high RPMs.  If you suspect that damage has occurred it’s best to stop using the equipment before more damage can happen, possible rendering the equipment beyond economical repair.

Manually operated devices like hand pump and cylinder set-ups, most jacks, hydraulic knock-out sets, crimpers and cutters, being over-filled or under-filled usually isn"t as damaging to the tool like Cavitation as described above. None the less can cause problems resulting in a potentially dangerous situation – Never attempt to work on any kind of hydraulic equipment that is under load or has pressurized lines.If you aren’t sure – STOP - find out. It’s not worth an accident!

There are many variations in designs of hydraulic jacks, tools and systems.  Some may have special bleeding procedures specific to them – Don’t hesitate to call us if you need help getting the correct service instruction or parts manuals for your equipment!    Work Safe!

scag <a href='https://www.ruidapetroleum.com/product/47'>hydraulic</a> <a href='https://www.ruidapetroleum.com/product/49'>pump</a> leaking quotation

I have a SMWC-61A. Somewhere around a 2007 model. Last season I was losing hydraulic fluid from somewhere around my right pump. Kept an eye on fluid level and had to add cardboard to my shed floor for leakage. So before mowing season starts again, I want to either fix or dump this mower. In the past few years, I have replaced a ton of parts on this thing. Last year"s adventure was a new electric PTO clutch. I"m 64, and crawling under this thing is getting old, and nearly killed my back. I digress, sorry. I"m looking for advise on repairing or placing this hydraulic pump. At $600-$700 for a new pump, I"m skeptical. How hard is removing and replacing gaskets for a kit that costs $30-$40? Last option. New Zero Turn? I like the larger cutting width. I don"t think I need a commercial grade mower like this one, which I bought from my deceased brothers-in-law estate, and I"ve had for 10 years now. I have a rough yard of 3 to 4 acres to mow. If new, I don"t want cheap, that will not take a beating for another 10 years. Been looking at Toro 55" to 60". I would like to get another couple years out of my Scag, due to resent repair and replacement items. But if the gaskets don"t cure my problem, I"m thinking I should cut bait. I know it"s not easy to give advice on the unseen, but I would like some input from my large yard mowing brothers and sisters. You have been a fountain of great information since I"ve found this site. Thank You All!