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The power steering pump is a belt-driven or electric-driven hydraulic pump that generates the hydraulic pressure needed to provide power steering assist. It develops output pressures of 1,000 PSI or more. The pump output is directed to the steering gear, often a rack and pinion type unit, where the hydraulic pressure pushes on the steering rack, greatly reducing the effort it would otherwise take to turn the steering wheel.

Groaning or whining noise when turning. Noise can occur if there is wear on the pump bearings or impeller vanes. A low fluid level or trapped air can also cause noises. If the pump has already been operating while dry, adding fluid may not resolve the noise and replacement of the pump might be necessary.

Power steering fluid leaks. Leaks can develop at pump seals, threaded connections, hoses, or on the steering rack and pinion unit. Pump seal leaks will generally require a replacement.

Difficult steering. Should you notice it is harder to turn the steering wheel, it might mean the power steering pump output pressure is too low, or there could be blockages in the pump or lines.

Damage to the pump pulley. Should the pump pulley become damaged or is loose on the pump shaft, you might detect vibration, drive belt damage, or hard steering. Either the pulley will have to be serviced or the pump assembly replaced.

If driven by a drive belt, the power steering pump is bolted to the engine via a bracket that allows for adjustment of the pump drive belt. Once the engine is cold, and safe to work on, the drive belt is removed.

If driven by an electric pump, the pump may be mounted in conjunction with the steering shaft or in conjunction with the steering rack. With either a drive belt or electric pump, removal of any dash, panel, or steering components is performed to access the pump.

The new pump is bolted on, the pressure and return hoses attached and the system is bled of all air. If pump is belt-driven, it is tightened to the manufacturer’s specification.

No. If the power steering pump is operated without an adequate amount of fluid, and the pump reservoir will not hold fluid due to a large leak. The pump could seize, which would snap the serpentine belt and likely leave you stranded. If the pump turns and there is adequate fluid, but there is no power assist, it will require much greater effort to turn the steering wheel, and that presents inherent safety risks. Generally, the wisest course is to seek immediate repairs if you suspect a problem with any component in your car’s power steering system.

Any belts driving the pump should be inspected and replaced as needed. The pump will only produce the required hydraulic pressure if it is driven by the belt at an adequate speed.

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The R230"s hydraulic vario roof pump aka hydraulic unit is a complex, high-performance pump with integrated valve block, two different output pressures, high-end electronic noise suppression, and high flow rate.

Intermittently working pumps are often mistaken for internal leaks in hydraulic cylinders. While internal leaks occur in OEM vario roof cylinders on occasion, almost every hydraulic pump will fail eventually on account of some design flaws that Top Hydraulics fixes with its upgrade. Thus, your pump will be better than a new one.

Is your pump blowing a fuse every time you try to use it? That is a clear sign for a short from the pump"s electric motor, and Top Hydraulics" rebuild will take care of it.

You send in your malfunctioning vario roof convertible hydraulic pump, p/n 2308000030, 2308000088, 2308000330, 2308000348, aka A 230 800 00 30, A 230 800 00 88, A 230 800 03 30, A 230 800 03 48.

If possible, raise your roll bar before removing the pump. Note that line 100 going to the top of the roll bar support cylinder is always pressurized (on working pumps). Before removing line 100 from the pump, loosen the two inside hex (Allen) bolts that hold the valve block to the pump. There will likely be a small amount of fluid coming out between the valve block and the pump body (fraction of an ounce), but this relieves pressure from line 100.

Do NOT drill a hole in the reservoir! - the filtering in the original pumps is insufficient, and tiny plastic shavings can cause significant damage to the pump and the valve block. Top Hydraulics may have to charge extra for rebuild service on pumps with severe contamination or holes drilled in the reservoir. An additional charge may also apply to pumps that have been abused by DIY repair efforts or severely damged by fire or water. Note that the latter is rare, but we want to mention it for completeness.

The upgrade service for hydraulic convertible top pumps replaces sensitive parts inside the pump with re-designed, precision machined aluminum ones, improves fluid filtering on those pumps that need it, services the valve block, solenoids and check valves, upgrades electronic components, upgrades internal seals, and replaces the electric motors if needed. Early model year vario roof pumps p/n 2308000030 (aka A 230 800 00 30) and 2308000348 (aka A 230 800 03 48) fail very frequently at this point, and should be upgraded proactively. Top Hydraulics" service makes these high-performance pumps better than brand new ones!

Pump removal is quite simple. Disconnect the pump from the wiring harness, remove the bolts that mount the pump frame to the car, and turn the pump on its side. Now you will see all the hydraulic lines going into the pump, held in place by two retaining plates. Each plate has numbers engraved where the lines go in, and the lines (hoses) have the corresponding numbers printed on them in red or white ink. Thus, there is no need for labeling the hoses. First loosen the two inside hex (Allen) bolts that hold the valve block to the pump - one or two turns is enough. There will likely be a small amount of fluid coming out between the valve block and the pump body (fraction of an ounce), but this relieves pressure from line 100. (As mentioned above, there is normally pressure on line 100, and that would otherwise make line 100 pop out of the pump once its retaining plate is moved.) Then remove the retaining plates and pull out the hoses.

We suggest that you remove the mounting frame from the pump - it makes shipping cheaper and easier. Do not attempt to drain fluid from the pump. Instead, wrap the pump inside a large garbage bag, and then inside another one. That should take care of keeping oil leaks contained, and it will protect your pump. Buffer the parcel well inside, and tape it up well.

Top Hydraulics will not guarantee that the rebuilt units will be cosmetically perfect, but they will work well. For example, if you send us a pump in a bent mounting frame, then we may use our best efforts to straighten out the frame, but we will not replace it. We do not replace damaged electrical connectors - please package your pump carefully.

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Maybe you’ve noticed that your Mercedes SL500 is leaning to one side a little bit, or riding a little too low. Maybe you’re already seeing the dreaded ABC warning light. Whatever it is, your Mercedes SL500 hydraulic suspension is failing. The question you might be asking now is “why?” While hydraulic suspensions offer a great deal of responsiveness and comfort, there are many drawbacks. Namely, the all-but-guaranteed eventual failure of the system and the expense of repairing and replacing it. Let’s take a look at some of the

Mercedes’ hydraulic suspension system, called Active Body Control (ABC), uses precision sensors and an onboard computer to regulate the hydraulic pressure in the shocks. While this allows for a very responsive and comfortable ride, it means there are lots of things that can go wrong. Furthermore, the ABC system requires all of the components to function in unison in order for it to work properly. If one component is failing it creates a domino effect and puts more stress on the other components. This will significantly shorten the working life of the other components.

The sensors in the SL500 hydraulic suspension are moving parts. Like all moving parts, they wear down over time and become less effective, eventually wearing out completely. The hydraulic pump, which pushes hydraulic fluid to the components, is itself a moving part. Once it wears out, the entire system will fail. It is a difficult and expensive component to replace.

The SL500 uses a series of lines to transport the hydraulic fluid from the pump into the struts. These lines need to be flexible and thus are made of materials like plastic and rubber. And plastic and rubber lines can be easily cut or ripped from road rubble or other debris. Even a small leak will significantly worsen the performance of the suspension. A hole in a line will cause the pump to work harder to keep the struts pumped up. This will cause the pump to wear out even faster. As you"ve learned, this will put extra stress on the other parts of your suspension system. That will lead to the early breakdown of every other component. Now that we know whythe hydraulic suspensions fail, let’s take a look at how to fix them.

The first and most obvious option is of course to take it to the dealership or a mechanic. They’ll get the OEM parts ordered and replaced. Repairing the entire system could cost you upwards of $4,000. For many, that’s a little too much to spend on an aging car. Another option is to replace your current suspension components with aftermarket hydraulic suspension components. These can be a little less expensive than the OEM parts. But you"ve still got a number of problems. Remember, these systems are very complex. That means that a mechanic needs to spend a lot of time under the hood to install or repair them. So while you"ll save a little money on the parts themselves, the labor bill will still be sky-high.

If those massive repair bills don"t sound like the way you want to fix your Mercedes SL500 suspension, you do have another option. That option is to forget that troubled hydraulic suspension entirely and replace it with a sturdy, dependable coilover suspension from Strutmasters.A Coilover suspension is a much simpler solution than the hydraulic one. Instead of a complex network of tubes and pumps and computers, your Mercedes will sit on robust, sturdy stainless steel. And with Strutmasters" patented Glide-Ride technology, you"ll enjoy a smooth ride that rivals your Mercedes SL500"s suspension when it was new.

Our engineers designed these kits to be easy and ergonomic to install. In fact, many of our customers prefer to do the work themselves at home. You don"t even need any specialty tools. And if you’d rather take it to a mechanic, the install only takes about one hour per wheel, meaning you won’t pay too much in labor fees. Best of all, this conversion kit is covered by our signature Limited Lifetime Warranty. That means that as long as your SL500 is on the road, we"ll guarantee the quality of the parts. That"s how confident we are in these Made-in-the-USA Mercedes suspension conversion kits.

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Hydraulic fluid is a mineral-based liquid used in heavy-duty applications to move power smoothly and efficiently. The fluid travels within a sealed system to also provide lubrication and reduce wear. Changing your hydraulic fluid regularly is a step toward protecting against excess wear and tear. Without the right lubricant at work, essential systems can break down and could provide poor performance or fail. Your hydraulic fluid may be leaking if you notice dry, cracked seals or see fluid on the ground. At O"Reilly Auto Parts, we stock hydraulic fluid for applications ranging from tractors to heavy duty equipment. Find the right hydraulic fluid for your application at O"Reilly Auto Parts.

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The R129 was offered as a two-door roadster with an automated (electro-hydraulic), fabric convertible roof; colour-matched, automated tonneau cover; and a manually detachable hardtop that could be fitted over the stored fabric convertible roof and tonneau. It was available with a variety of powertrains across its twelve-year production, including a V12 option used in the SL600.

Designed in 1984, the R129 was based on the shortened floorpan of the Mercedes-Benz W124Adaptive Damping System ADS, optional) and a hidden, automatically extending roll-over bar. The R107"s somewhat dated rear suspension with semi-trailing arms gave way to a modern multi-link axle. The number of standard features was high, with electric action for the windows, mirrors, seats and hydraulic convertible top.

Antilock Braking System (ABS) ABS senses impending wheel lock-up under heavy braking and pumps the front brakes individually or the rear brakes together (to help maintain stability), as needed, up to 30 times per second to prevent lock-up and maintain steering ability.

"Buyers Guide - 1990-2002 R129 SL500/SL600 Roadsters". MBCA. 19 August 2010. Archived from the original on 27 October 2017. Retrieved 27 October 2017.

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The R129, introduced in 1989, soley as a two-passenger convertible with a removable hardtop. The R129 was the first Mercedes to feature a fully automatic, hydraulically-operated fabric convertible top; V8 and (later) V12 engines with four valves per cylinder; projector lens HID headlamps (introduced in 1995); and an automatic rollbar, which self-deployed in a rollover event. The retractable rollbar could also be raised or lowered manually using a switch on the console, and facilitated occupant safety without compromising aesthetics. In 1992, R129 was the first SL-Class to offer an optional a V12 engine (600 SL/SL 600) and to have official AMG variants (500 SL 6.0 AMG, SL 60 AMG (V8), SL 70 AMG (V12), SL 73 AMG (V12), and then SL 55 AMG (V8)). The R129 was the last SL-Class offered with a manual gearbox.

The R230, introduced in 2001, continues the evolution of R129 with smoother body design and new peanut-shaped headlamp design. The fifth-generation SL-Class featured a "Vario Roof" retractable hardtop, as introduced on the 1996 SLK Class: Active Body Control (ABC) active suspension system, Keyless Go keyless entry and smart key, and Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) electro-hydraulic power brake system. The SBC proved troublesome, and was later disabled by Mercedes-Benz in a large recall campaign due to the difficulties in modulating the brake effort.

A total of 169,433 SL R230s were ever produced. The most common model is SL500 (~100,000 units). The rarest is SL65 AMG with only 3,055 units (350 of which SL65 AMG Black Series).