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This 2-Stage pump fits a wide variety of log splitters and outdoor power equipment and works in both horizontal and vertical orientations. The included inlet nipple requires a 1" inner diameter suction hose.

Rated for up to 3,000 PSI at 3,600 RPM, this pump can power log splitters from 5 to 35 tons, depending on the inner diameter of the hydraulic cylinder. It features a fast cycle time by moving quickly when unloaded. It automatically shifts to low-flow/high-pressure mode at 500 PSI.

Be sure to use AW-32 10-Weight (ISO 32) or AW-46 20-Weight (ISO 46) light hydraulic fluid or Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. This pump is not designed for use with “universal” or "tractor" transmission oil, such as "303". The use of incorrect fluid may damage the pump and void the warranty.

Make sure the hydraulic fluid reservoir is not below the pump to ensure a sufficient flow of fluid to the pump. Suction-side filtration should be no finer than 150 microns. The use of a 10-25 micron filter on the suction side of the pump is too restrictive and will cause failure.

The mounting flange on this pump has a 4-bolt, 2 inches on center, mounting pattern. The bolt circle is 2.85" and the bolt hole diameter is M8 (.344").

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This 2-Stage pump fits a wide variety of log splitters and outdoor power equipment and works in both horizontal and vertical orientations. The included inlet nipple requires a 1" inner diameter suction hose.

Rated for up to 3,000 PSI at 3,600 RPM, this pump can power log splitters from 5 to 35 tons, depending on the inner diameter of the hydraulic cylinder. It features a fast cycle time by moving quickly when unloaded. It automatically shifts to low-flow/high-pressure mode at 500 PSI.

Be sure to use AW-32 10-Weight (ISO 32) or AW-46 20-Weight (ISO 46) light hydraulic fluid or Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. This pump is not designed for use with “universal” or "tractor" transmission oil, such as "303". The use of incorrect fluid may damage the pump and void the warranty.

Make sure the hydraulic fluid reservoir is not below the pump to ensure a sufficient flow of fluid to the pump. Suction-side filtration should be no finer than 150 microns. The use of a 10-25 micron filter on the suction side of the pump is too restrictive and will cause failure.

We recommend using an L-style jaw coupling to connect the pump to an engine. Couplings and mounting brackets are available. You should use at least a 5hp 163cc engine to maintain 3,600 RPM under load.

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A two-stage hydraulic pump is two gear pumps that combine flow at low pressures and only use one pump at high pressures.  This allows for high flow rates at low pressures or high pressures at low flow rates.  As a result, total horsepower required is limited.

Pumps are rated at their maximum displacement.  This is the maximum amount of oil that is produced in a single rotation.  This is usually specified in cubic inches per revolution (cipr) or cubic centimeters per revolution (ccpr).  Flow is simply the pump displacement multiplied by the rotation speed (usually RPM) and then converted to gallons or liters.  For example, a 0.19 cipr pump will produce 1.48 gallons per minute (gpm) at 1800 rpm.

Simply put, gear pumps are positive displacement pumps and are the simplest type you can purchase. Positive displacement means that every time I rotate the shaft there is a fixed amount of oil coming out.  In the diagram shown here, oil comes in the bottom and is pressurized by the gears and then moves out the top.  The blue gear will spin clockwise. These pumps are small, inexpensive and will handle dirty oil well.  As a result, they are the most common pump type on the market.

A piston pump is a variable displacement pump and will produce full flow to no flow depending on a variety of conditions.  There is no direct link between shaft rotation and flow output.  In the diagram below, there are eight pistons (mini cylinders) arranged in a circle.  The movable end is attached to a swashplate which pushes and pulls the pistons in and out of the cylinder.  The pistons are all attached to the rotating shaft while the swashplate stays fixed.  Oil from the inlet flows into the cylinders as the swashplate is extending the pistons.  When the swashplate starts to push the pistons back in, this oil is expelled to the outlet.

So, we don’t actually turn one of the pumps off.  It is very difficult to mechanically disconnect the pump, but we do the next best thing.  So earlier in the article I mentioned that pumps move oil they don’t create pressure.  Keeping this in mind, we can simply recirculate the oil from the pressure side back to the tank side.  Simple.   So, let’s look at this as a schematic.

Luckily, turning off the pump is quite simple and only involves two components: a check valve and an unloader valve.  The check valve is there to keep the higher-pressure oil from the low flow pump separate from the oil in the high flow pump.  The higher-pressure oil from the low flow pump will shift the unloader valve by compressing the spring.  This allows flow from the high flow pump to return to the suction line of the pump.  Many pumps have this return line internal to the pump, so there is no additional plumbing needed.  At this point, the high flow pump uses little to no power to perform this action.  You will notice that the cylinder speed slows dramatically.  As the log splits apart, the pressure may drop causing the unloader valve to close again.  At this point, the flows will combine again.  This process may repeat several times during a single split.

The graph above shows the overlay of a performance curve of a piston pump and two stage gear pumps.  As you can see, the piston pump between 700 psi and 3000 psi will deliver the maximum HP that our engine can produce and as a result, it will have maximum speed.  Unfortunately, it will also have maximum cost.  If we are willing to sacrifice a little performance, the two-stage pump will work very well.  Most of our work is done under 500 psi where the two pumps have identical performance.  As pressure builds, the gear pump will be at a slight disadvantage, but with good performance.  The amount of time we spend in this region of the curve is very little and it would be hard to calculate the time wasted.

After the pump on my log splitter died, I replaced it with a two-stage pump.   While I was missing out on the full benefits of the piston pump, there was a tremendous increase in my output (logs/hr.).  I noticed that instead of me waiting on the cylinder to be in the right position, I was now the hold up.  I couldn’t get the logs in and positioned fast enough.  What a difference!

As you go from a standard two-stage pump to your own custom design, you will find that you will need to add the check valve and unloader separately.  However, there are many available cartridges manifold out there already that make this simple.  Some even have relief valves built in!

Two stage pumps are wonderful creations!  They allow for better utilization of pressure, flow and power by giving you two performance curve areas.  They also show their versatility in conserving power which leads to energy savings while remaining inexpensive.  A lot of these pumps come pre-made and preset, but you can make your own!  See if your next project can get a boost from one of these wonderful devices.

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Variable-displacement pumps are used in hydraulic systems where the flow requirements vary. This usually means the system has several actuators and, depending on the current cycle of the machine, the number of actuators moving at a given time will fluctuate. The most common type of variable-displacement pump is the pressure-compensating pump.

Pressure-compensating pumps are designed to deliver only the amount of flow required by the system to maximize efficiency and avoid heat generation. The compensator is adjusted to a pressure somewhat higher than that required to move the system’s heaviest load.

A pressure-compensating pump will deliver its maximum flow until the system pressure reaches the compensator setting. Once the compensator setting is reached, the pump will be de-stroked to deliver only the amount of flow that will maintain the compensator setting in the line.

Whenever more flow is demanded by the system (such as would occur when an additional actuator begins to move), the pump will increase its stroke to meet the new flow demand. Whenever the system flow needs to decrease (such as when one or more actuators are stopped), the pump stroke is reduced.

When the system is stopped completely, the pump stroke is reduced almost to zero. It will stroke only a very small amount or whatever is required to maintain the compensator setting in the line, overcoming any system bypassing or leaks. While a pressure-compensating pump is efficient, the standby pressure remains high.

Adjusting a pressure-compensating pump is quite simple. With all flow blocked and the system idle, the compensator valve is adjusted to the desired pressure. However, some pressure-compensating pumps have two valves mounted on the pump body.

The two adjustments can look nearly identical. This type of pressure-compensating pump is called a load-sensing pump. The second adjustment is called either a “load-sensing” valve or “flow-compensator” valve.

A load-sensing pump is designed to reduce its pressure to a much lower standby level whenever the system is idle. This can conserve energy and reduce heat and wear in systems that spend a significant amount of time in an idle condition.

The two separate pressure adjustments allow setting the compensator valve to the required maximum system pressure and the load-sensing adjustment to a much lower standby pressure.

Whenever the system is moving a load, the high-pressure adjustment limits the system pressure. For instance, as a cylinder is extended, pressure in the system will build as necessary to move the load. Eventually, the cylinder reaches the end of its stroke, and flow is blocked.

Most load-sensing systems have a pump-loading directional-control valve of some sort that can place the system in an idle condition until it is necessary to move another load. When the pump-loading valve is shifted, the system pressure drops to the much lower load-sensing valve setting.

A load-sensing valve usually is smaller than the compensator valve and typically mounted directly on top of the compensator. The compensator valve is closer to the pump. The load-sensing valve is factory preset and normally does not need to be adjusted during the initial pump setup. In most pumps, the factory preset is approximately 200-300 pounds per square inch (psi).

The most common reason to adjust a load-sensing valve is because someone unfamiliar with the pump has mistakenly attempted to set the maximum system pressure by adjusting the load-sensing valve instead of the compensator. This not only can result in unstable system pressure but in some cases can also void any warranty on the pump.

A typical configuration of a pressure-compensating pump is shown in Figure 1. A pump-loading valve is used to determine whether the system is idle or prepared to move a load. The pump-loading valve is de-energized whenever the system is idle.

Pilot pressure on the left-hand side of the load-sensing valve is then released to the tank. The pilot line on the right-hand side of the load-sensing valve is connected to the pressure line at the pump outlet. System pressure shifts the load-sensing valve and directs pressure to reduce the pump stroke so that system pressure drops to the load-sensing setting of 300 psi, as illustrated in Figure 2.

When a load is to be moved, the pump-loading valve is energized. This directs pilot pressure to the left side of the load-sensing valve, keeping it from shifting. System pressure shifts the compensator valve to de-stroke the pump exactly the amount necessary to limit system pressure to the compensator setting, 3,000 psi as shown in Figure 3.

To make the pressure settings, always adjust the load-sensing valve first. The pump should be deadheaded by closing the manual hand valve. With the pump-loading valve de-energized, pressure will build only to the current setting of the load-sensing valve. Adjust the load-sensing valve to the desired pressure.

Once the load-sensing valve is set, energize the pump-loading valve. System pressure will then build to the current compensator setting. Adjust the compensator to the desired setting. Open the manual valve, and the system can be placed back into service.

Jack Weeks is a hydraulic instructor and consultant for GPM Hydraulic Consulting. Since 1997 he has trained thousands of electricians and mechanics in hydraulic troubleshooting methods. Jack has...

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We shall, at our option, repair or replace any items deemed by us to be defective under this warranty. Items returned by the purchaser for warranty adjustment must be handled as stated in our return policy. Proof of, and date of purchase will be required.

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2-stage hydraulic pumps are used in motor-driven operations wherein a low-pressure, high rate inlet must be transferred to high pressure, low flow-rate outlet. Single-stage pumps are rated to a static max pressure level and have a limited recycle rate.

To achieve high pressure without a 2-stage unit, the drive engine would require significantly higher horsepower and torque capacity but still lack an effective cycle rate. Other hydraulic pump variants exist – such as piston pumps – but are expensive, making 2-stage units more feasible.

For example, a single gear hydraulic pump might be designed to generate a high-pressure output. Still, it will be unable to repeat a cycle rapidly due to a necessarily low flow rate at the intake. A 2-stage unit ensures consistent flow to increase cycle turnover.

Compactors utilize a similar 2-stage process. High-pressure flow drives the compacting rod, while the low-pressure flow retracts the mechanism and feeds the high-pressure chamber for repeated impacts.

2. Once the first-stage pressure meets a certain pressure threshold, a combiner check valve will open and feed into the second-stage, small-gear unit – joining flows at relatively low pressure.

A piston pump operates according to variable displacement. Flow is determined by the angle of an internal slant disk attached to the pump shaft. Pump adjustments – like torque or horsepower limiters – allow piston pumps to emit a max flow rate regardless of pressure level.

In most cases, hydraulic piston pumps are an order of magnitude more expensive than gear-based pumps. Potential downtime and part replacement in high volume work conditions exacerbate price disparities further.

Chiefly: fuel and power consumption. A piston pump operating in high-pressure ranges will regularly demand the full horsepower capabilities of its associated drive engine – increasing the power utilization of the system.

Opportunity cost may also be considered when using a piston pump. Depending on the application (e.g., log splitting), work output can be heavily impacted by the cycle speed of the pump. Not only is a piston pump more expensive to peruse, it is also slower than 2-stage pumps.

Panagon Systems has specialized in manufacturing industry-standard and custom hydraulic assemblies for 25 years. Reach out to our team for a consultation on your specific operational and equipment needs.

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http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/16445x.pdfGood catch, I should have seen that. Now the interesting part is that the relief is preset 2000psi from factory and a max range of 2500psi. His engine should pull that without any serious bogging. Rereading the first post, he says it boggs out and stalls. I am now wondering if its the engine that is stalling, ( which is what I thought he was saying),or the cylinder that is stalling. I think that issue needs to be clarified before going any further. If the cylinder is what is stalling, and the engine continues to run, it could just be a matter of the relief being set to low, or to small a cylinder for the wood being split. If it is indeed not shifting into lowflow/high pressure, then he might need to adjust the pump to the the 650psi high flow/ low pressure. Remove the cap on the inlet side of the pump. Under the cap is a slotted screw. Turn clockwise to increase pressure. Turn the screw all the way clockwise to the stop and see if the engine can handle it. If not then back it out a little and try again. Run the engine full throttle and plan to play with the setting until you find the limit for your engine. You will find that the higher you can run the pressure on high flow side, the less the pump will kick down into low flow/high pressure and the faster your splitter will work. If you engine is actually already what is bogging, you may have to turn the screw counter clockwise to lower the unloader pressure.. It is best to use a pressure gauge, but you can do this by ear. If its killing the engine, just turn the screw out until it no longer kills the engine. You should adjust the relief setting on the control valvle first before trying to adjust the unloader valve on the pump. The load is what will cause the pressure to build, you can simulate a full load by fully extending or retracting the cyl, and the relief valve on the valve will activate. If it will not get to 2500 psi, then the valve pressure relief (on control valve) is not set, or you don"t have a load equivalent to 2500 psi. With a gauge installed, pressure will be at a minimum until you activate the lever on the control valve, Once lever is activated, pressure should climb on the gauge until the cyl is fully extended or retracted, at which point the pressure will climb rapidly to the relief setting. Watch the gauge, it should jump from the settings on the pump unloader valve (650psi), to the setting on the relief (2500psi). You may need to split a round or two to actually see the pressure spike as the spike can be pretty fast

I will just add, that I have never had to adjust the relief on the control valve or unloader relief on a pump that was new out of the box. Usually if the reliefs need adjusting, its because someone has already been messing with them. Usually the factory guys have it pretty close, not saying mess ups dont happen, just that it is unusual when it does. I also usually use large bore cyls and bigger hp engines than the minimums required. If you have the hp to pull the pumps and cyls that create more than enough force, the factory relief setting will usually take care of themselfs.

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Hydraulic pumps are used in many different industries, such as construction and agriculture. They’re used to push liquids, slurries and gases though a process where they change direction and speed. This is done by changing the pressure that a fluid exerts on a hydraulic pump or cylinder. Since hydraulic motors are used for working fluids with lots of inertia properties, their control is very critical. A hydraulic system does not operate properly if you force it to do too much work unless there is enough room for the pump output pressure to drop below its required value. By adjusting the output pressure in this way you can make sure that the system works at maximum efficiency therefore helping prevent breakdowns.

A hydraulic pump is a machine used to move fluid. The fluid is usually hydraulic oil or water, but it can also be other types of fluid. When the hydraulic pump is working, the pressure in the fluid inside the pump is higher than the atmospheric pressure. This means that the fluid inside the pump is under a lot of pressure and can push things around. If you want to use the pump to move something, you need to make sure that the pressure in the fluid is at the right level.

The pressure in a hydraulic system can be adjusted using a valve called a relief valve. Relief valves are usually found on the outlet of a hydraulic system. When you operate a relief valve, you are lowering the pressure in the system by releasing some of the pressure from the system. This reduces the amount of force that needs to be used to move something and makes it easier for you to operate the pump.

There are different ways to adjust pressure in a hydraulic system. One way is to use an adjusting screw on a relief valve. Another way is to use an accumulator tank (a container that holds hydraulic oil). You can open or close the accumulator tank using hand levers or an electrical controller.

A hydraulic pump is a mechanical device used to transfer fluid from one container to another. It is important to adjust the pressure of the hydraulic pump in order to maintain consistent flow rates and pressure levels.

One of the most common reasons for needing to adjust the output pressure of a hydraulic pump is when the fluid level in the reservoir falls below the pump’s operating level. In some cases, the pump may operate at a higher pressure than necessary, leading to wear and tear on components.

Adjust the output pressure of a hydraulic pump is an important step to take, especially when it comes to your lawnmower. Even if you know what type of motor you own, you have to make sure that your engine will be able to work with that pressure. The mechanical components and settings required for adjusting your engine may differ depending on the model you own but most models have similar things in common.

Adjusting the output pressure of a hydraulic pump can be a hassle, but it’s not too difficult. The pump pressure adjusting screw is usually located on the front or back of the pump. To adjust the output pressure, first locate the screw. Once you find the screw, turn it until you get the desired output pressure. You can find a chart to help you calculate the output pressure of your hydraulic pump by visiting our Equipment and Tools section.

Fill the tanks with hydraulic oil. Before you adjust anything, fill the tank with the appropriate hydraulic fluid based on your application’s specifications. If you’re unsure what type of fluid your application requires, contact an equipment dealer or refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual for information.

When the hydraulic pump is used, the pressure in the system will increase. This pressure is necessary to operate the pump and can be dangerous if not released. To release the pressure, open the valve on the pump.

2: Remove the cap on the pump discharge line, turn the adjustment screw until the desired output pressure is reached, replace the cap and tighten the locknut.

When you are finished adjusting the output pressure, turn the adjusting screw one more time in the same direction to lock it in place. Be sure to read and follow the instructions that came with your hydraulic pump before making any adjustments.

Adjusting a hydraulic pump’s output pressure is an important task for ensuring proper performance of your machine. When you are finished adjusting the output pressure, turn the adjusting screw one more time in the same direction to lock it in place. Be sure to read and follow the instructions that came with your hydraulic pump before making any adjustments.

If the hydraulic pump is not providing the desired output pressure, it may be necessary to adjust the output pressure. This can be done by adjusting the compression or output valves.

To adjust the compression valve, remove the cap and turn the adjustment screw until the desired output pressure is reached. To adjust the output valve, turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to change the output pressure.

Adjusting a hydraulic pump output pressure can help optimize its performance and prolong the life of the pump. By properly adjusting the output pressure, operators can ensure that the hydraulic system is functioning at its best while minimizing wear and tear.