wd45 hydraulic pump adjustment made in china

There was nothing better to to on a rainy day in southern Illinois so my brother and I began working on the pump. We adjusted all the linkage according to the manual and with plenty of fluid it would only put out about 1500 psi at the remote outlet instead of the 3500. We pulled the pump off. It took quite allot of wiggling and cussing to get it out from between the frame rail and the housing!!! Got it out and laid on the work bench. All four cam followers still seemed to be spring loaded. The adjusting screw seemed to still move the control valve but not certain. We got this far, can our orange friends guide us further into this project?? Thanks, Ryan

To adj the pressure, remove the 4 -1/4 in bolts on front of pump holding plate on. There will be two valves exposed. Tap quick and lightly on the one closest to pumping plungers. It should bounce out farenough to get ahold of. Pull it out easy to keep every thing togather. There will be shims between spring and plunger. Add shims to increase pressure.

On spool opposite the pressure spool, drive the spool assy. to back of pump and replace the two orings along with two orings on pressure spool (unloading valve).

Just take your time and pay attention to detail.It"s not as intimidating as you think and you really can"t mess up much.I"d say keeping track of the direction and order of the control vavles and sleeves would be the most critical if you remove them.Mack"s advise had you leaving them in and alone.If it"s pumping good they are are not your problem as far as pressure goes.Sometimes they can get tiny bits of FM in them that don"t let them shift position which controls pump flow rate.Let"s say you tear it all apart and don"t have a clue how to put back.Put all the pieces in a box and take it to someone who knows these old units and they can whip it back together in short order.It ain"t really that high tech.

Do you have a transport valve on that tractor? My pump quit suddenly one spring and wouldn"t lift the disc. I found the shoulder on the relief spool had cracked and broke completely off letting the pump bypass continually. If you get a little piece of gunk on the ball or seat behind the relief spool it could be leaking by.

Ryan, Don"t be intimidated by working on the hyd pump. Just keep all the parts in order as they are removed. Keep the parts in clean diesel oil so they will not enlarge. Be sure to clean the pump. As said above it does not take much to foul up action.

Looks like you have gotten the pump working as suggested. However you do not have pressure Could be a leak somewhere. O-rings ect. Check spring pressure to be certain there are no broken springs. Are all the plungers moving well. Pull them out and see if there are any broken springs under them. Look closely.

Charlie, we were told from the factor to batter the end of nails to make tools to hold the cam followers in. If the pump does not come out easily then go to lunch. I did that came back and it almost fell out.

I"m thinking maybe all 45"s had transports but not sure. On the "nail" tip,you"ll see where to wedge them in the lever when you compress it down by hand.Once you"ve cleared the housing with the rollers and the pump is kinda hanging on the pickup tube,you can pull them out with pliers easily.Don"t drop one inside housing!

The thumbscrew on front adjusts amount of oil pumped.It should be out against the clutch hsg when pump is mounted.Some suggest screwing all in then out to fix a stuck valve if pump seems slow. Screw it in 1/2 for mounting pump then back it out(more clearence).Your pressure problem isn"t affected by this side of pump.Edited by Steve M C/IL - 24 Apr 2011 at 11:06pm

It still aint right!! We took pump off and very carefully started our rebuild. Ordered a seal and plunger kit from Agco part#70255272. All control valves were not stuck and were oiled and correctly reinstalled. All springs were not broken but replaced anyway. The only issue was the unloading valve assembly which Agco told me was no longer available but had a outside supplier. After all linkage was adjusted the pump was just as weak as before we started. It only would put out 1500psi and would slowly drop!! What are we missing?? The unloading valve from the after market supplier or what?? I don"t know whats left to work on. Ryan

Did the pump work OK say last year? You could add about .020 inch of shim to add about 1400psi but if it worked before and has recently lost pressure or volume, there is something wrong with the pump.

My new one from agco, several years ago wasn"t machined complete and caused my pump to unload at over 9000psi. I took it back apart and found a 1/4 inch diameter c"bore missing down inside the back end. That was like adding a 1/4 inch shim to the front.Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 28 May 2011 at 9:51pm

Years ago I put a new unloader in my 45 and it didn"t help a bit.Had 11 shims and still eradic unload pressures.Doubt unloader is culprit but this seems to be the $64000 question no one can answer.I"ve got a 5/16 washer with the center trimmed out as an additional shim and it"s useable.Always good pressure at/off idle but not at half throttle or more.Always suspected the check ball on back end of pump where it transfers to control valve of not holding and getting a "bounce back" of pressure which effects unloader but never went to the trouble to prove it.They didn"t include that "valve" in my rebuild kit from AC years ago.It takes pressure on the outlet end of unloader to lift ball off seat.I don"t understand how mine can vary so much but it"s most effected by rpm.I quit beating my head on the wall on got it useable and quit.

I think thats our next step. We have became real good at removing the pump!! What about the shim issue?? We are reading about 1500psi right now, now many shims would a person add?? Ryan

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Mine had the same "problem" when I got it. The previous owner had wire-tied the control down. Turned out that that the pump wasn"t setup for the right job.

The pump can be set for all sorts of jobs so be sure that it is set up correctly for the job you need to do. There should be a decal on the battery box just above the pump that shows you how to set the pump up. The pump has four manual adjustment knobs. The most commonly used set up for me is the hold position setting. The lowest knob on the side of the pump is the drawbar adjustment ("A"). It is used for pulling plows and the like and gives traction control. Turn this knob all the way into the body detent locking the plate into position. (If you have a linkage to the drawbar you may want to remove it.) The second knob is on top of the pump on the side linkages. This is the hold position adjustment ("B"). Turn it so that it locks the two plates together, allowing them to move as one. The third knob is also on top but on the front of the pump"s hold position valve. This controls the delay lift ("C"). Turn it all the way out until it hits its stop. The last knob is on the front of the pump about half way down. It controls the rate of lift ("D"). Turning it all the way out gives you fast lift. All the way in is slow lift. (I have mine set about halfway.)

Once you have the pump setup for the job you want to do, you need to adjust the linkages. (I"m going on memory here so hopefully someone will check me on this.) First with the tractor off move the lift control to the full up position. There is an adjustment just under the gas tank on the large linkage to the hydraulic pump. Loosen this and push the linkage down to take all the play out of the pump and retighten. Move the control back to the down position. Turn the second knob I mentioned above (the hold position knob "B") into the detent in the body of the pump separating the two plates and locking the inner plate to the pump. Now start the tractor and raise the lift to max height and shut the tractor off with the control still in max lift. Stand on the lift arms and slowly lower the lift control until the pump releases completely. (This should be about halfway down the quadrant.) Now, being careful to not move the position of the control, go back to the outer plate and loosen the smaller linkage adjust (which is on the outer plate) so the plate moves easily but be careful not to move the rod. Rotate the outer plate so that you can turn control "B" back out of the pump again locking the inner and outer plates together. Being careful to not move the control linkages, rotate the plates counter-clockwise until you feel them click into a detent and retighten the small linkage adjustment.

You may have to tweak it here and there depending on how worn your linkages are and I don"t recall the adjustments for the traction boost linkage down to the drawbar (and don"t use them anyway as mine doesn"t have the linkage) but that should cure your creep problem. The control may still creep up from full down to the detent but the lift will stay down. (I normally keep the control at the detent anyway.)

In this article I would like to throw in my modest opinion about non-original spare parts - a frequent discussion topic among folks involved in the business of hydraulic pump and motor overhauling.

Although workshops can"t repair pumps without spare parts, they can choose where to buy the spares, and this choice is the key factor that defines how much money they make and how much "overhauling quality" they deliver. With so many suppliers and resellers of non-genuine replacement parts for hydraulic pumps and motors popping up every day, choosing the right "economic" supplier has become all but an easy task involving trial and error overhauls, pissed-off mechanics, pissed-off customers and even forever lost contracts and clients.

A mechanic, for example, being the person who shoves the parts into them pumps and motors, will always prefer genuine replacement parts over any aftermarket ones for one simple reason - they are easy to work with, they always fit and require no "finishing touches" - ergo his work is faster and simpler. Genuine parts last long and are hardly ever faulty, which makes the testing and adjustment procedures safer and reduces the risk of having to re-open overhauled units to a minimum. A mechanic doesn"t care about how much they cost because he"s not the one paying for them.

The truth lies, as always, in the golden middle, and I, personally, came to the conclusion that although most of the times you do get what you pay for, this doesn"t mean that you can"t get a bargain for a penny every once in a while, so a sound overhauler keeps his eyes and mind open and uses both genuine and aftermarket parts in a combination defined by his trial an error experience and the pump/motor application demands. This approach is sound because even in pre-recession years there were hydraulic equipment owners who actually preferred aftermarket to genuine in the pursuit of cutting down overhaul expenses. So, some clients will want the genuine quality, and some will want the lower price - and in order to satisfy both you, naturally, have to be able to serve both, but - if your goal is to deliver quality repairs, aftermarket part suppliers should be chosen with a cool head and on the basis of quality, not price!

OK, you say, so I am a hydraulic equipment owner, and I"ve got this excavator pump to repair, how do I know if I am going to be scammed with them Chinese spares? Well, there is no simple answer to this question...There is an opinion that if an overhaul is backed up by warranty than you"re on the safe side, no matter what parts were used - this, unfortunately, is not entirely true, because if you"re the unlucky hydraulic pump owner caught in the "error" stage of the new supplier trial and error validation process, you can get two different answers and two very different bills depending on how honest the company you are dealing with is. An honest workshop will admit their fault and try to correct the mistake as fast as they can, and if you are not the first-time customer you might even get the - "sorry about that, dude, the parts"re all **cked up..." confession, while a less candid workshop will give you the standard "commission errors committed by non-qualified personnel plus hard particle contamination in conjunction with the inappropriate oil temperature and deficient system design" excuse, and make you pay for their poor part supplier choice. So I"d say that warranty alone isn"t a guarantee, and would cast my vote for warranty combined with transparency - if a workshop has good experience with their non-genuine spare parts supplier - they won"t be ashamed to admit that the parts are not original.

Now, a separate word must be said about Chinese suppliers of spare parts for hydraulic pumps and motors. There are hundreds of companies in China that will sell you spare parts for almost any existing brand, with the quality ranging from superb to unacceptable and even ridiculously unacceptable. However with most suppliers (and especially resellers) the fact that you have received a batch of supreme quality spares doesn"t guarantee that you will get the same quality in the next batch. So if you ever decide to "go oriental" - be prepared for nasty surprises! (At least that was the situation at the moment of writing - December 2011).

My calling is more technical than commercial, therefore I am mainly interested in the quality of the spares rather than their price or where they come from - so please, don"t bother asking me for a list of "unofficially approved" Chinese suppliers of cheap yet extremely high quality spare parts for hydraulic pumps and motors - I won"t provide it because I frankly don"t have it! We do use some aftermarket spares from China, we did have our share of mishaps and disappointments with Chinese made parts, and our initial "Hurrays" got eventually replaced by "Boos" for most of them. Since our policy has always been to never let a client pay for a breakdown caused by a low quality part, a couple of lessons "learned the hard way" taught us that in most cases (not all, though) using Chinese spares in hydraulic pumps and motors is like using bathroom soap for filling cakes - looks and smells nice, yet still tastes like crap...

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