where is the hydraulic pump on a tractor quotation

Puth Khurd Village, Delhi Shop No 7, Plot No 867-868, Firni Road, Village Pooth Khurd Opposite Sector 3, Bawana, Pooth Khurd, Puth Khurd Village, Delhi - 110039, Delhi

Rakhiyal, Ahmedabad Safal Sumel 7, A-307, Third Floor, Soni Ni Chal Char Rasta Naroda To Narol Ring Road, Rakhiyal, Ahmedabad - 380023, Dist. Ahmedabad, Gujarat

Privided by "Himalaya International", a 50 year old concern engaged in Tractor parts. We export tractor parts for renkowned brands like Farmtrac, Powertrac, Mahindra, John Deere, Same Deutz, Fiat, Zetor, Sonalika, New Holland, Eicher, to name a few.

Noida, Greater Noida, Dist. Gautam Budh Nagar Plot No-2A, KH No-485, Panch Lok, Gautam Buddha Nagar, Noida, Greater Noida - 201306, Dist. Gautam Budh Nagar, Uttar Pradesh

PUMP FOR TRACTOR FITTING 4 INCHES DELIVERY SIZE / 3 INCHES ALSO AVAILABLE 6X6 Rs. 20770 (ahhhj) 4x4 Rs.12500 (aabaj) 3x3 Rs. 8500 (gfgj) oct 22 update make speedwell

with a firm commitment to quality and reliable services, we slowly moved ahead. Today we are among the leading companies in our sphere of business. We provide our services to India as well as Overseas markets.

Satellite Road, Ahmedabad F-04 karma Jyot Coop H Soc Ltd, Opp Ramdev Nagar Police Chowkey, Satellite Road, Ahmedabad - 380015, Dist. Ahmedabad, Gujarat

Greater Noida, Dist. Gautam Budh Nagar Shop No 3, Ground Floor, Near Bsf Camp, Ravindra Market, Gautam Buddha Nagar Bsf Camp Road, Vill Khera Chauganpur Greater Noida, Greater Noida - 201306, Dist. Gautam Budh Nagar, Uttar Pradesh

***Please note the pump you receive will be an exact match to the pump number in the title. The photos shown are used to give you a general idea what the pump will look like, the photos are not for comparison purposes.***

Hydraulic.Net has been manufacturing high quality, long lasting pumps for the hydraulic industry for 30 years. We are a direct supplier to most major Original Equipment Manufacturers in North America including John Deere, Caterpillar, Agco, Case New Holland, Etc. Our manufacturing processes and testing facilities have been audited and approved by all of the largest equipment manufacturers.

SUPER HIGH QUALITY ENGINEERED DESIGN HYDRAULIC PUMP. THE PHOTO IS NOT EXACTLY THE SAME AS YOUR PUMP, BUT YOU WILL RECEIVE THE SAME ENGINEERED REPLACEMENT PUMP THAT LASTS DECADES.

SUPER HIGH QUALITY ENGINEERED BRAND DESIGN HYDRAULIC PUMP. THE PHOTO IS NOT EXACTLY THE SAME AS YOUR PUMP, BUT YOU WILL RECEIVE THE SAME WEBSTER/HALDEX/REXROTH/BOSCH/CESSNA BRAND PUMP THAT LASTS DECADES.

If I were to order a new rebuilt hydraulic pump for a c a model 1953, and just pulled my malfunctioning one off and put one on is it possible that the problem lies somewhere else or with a direct replacement like this what kind of confidence is in the pump working like new? I have already tried to reset all of the bolts and set screws to get it adjusted and in working order but none of that has worked. Thanks Matt Edited by Hunt4Allis - 20 Mar 2020 at 3:33pm

It took me 3 tries to "rebuild" the pump on my "51 CA. It was easy ONCE I found the check ball that went "walkabout" on the garage floor...hmm..grey ball, grey floor, 2hrs later I found it... EVERY bit of the pump needs to come off or out ! ANY gunk or sludge can ause it to "fail". Odds are it"s never been cleaned and ,yeesh, yours is 67 years old..same as me.

If it has hydraulic oil and the PTO is engaged the pump should work. If not it must be the pump. Could be as simple as the pickup tube not in place to a broken spring in the pump or a plunger stuck. A rebuilt pump should work well if done right. The one you have mite just need a simple fix.

I assume the lift is not working. What does the oil look like? If it is milky, you have water which can make the pump stick. Changing the oil could help. The last one I had problems with, I hit the pump lightly with a hammer and it starting working. No guarantee that will work, but who knows.

It usually lifts extremely slow it seems until everything gets warmed up and then it won"t stay raised up but it"s not the adjustments I"ve already gone through it twice.

303 fluid is about the WORST thing you could put in it for fluid. I guess straight water may be worse.Here is an article on the waste oil you are using. https://www.tractorlife.com/2018/06/19/perilously-obsolete-the-dangers-of-303-tractor-hydraulic-fluids/

If it pumps slow, you may either have a check ball and seat leaking or, one or more of the plungers is stuck in, and not pumping oil. When you take it apart and clean it, get 2 new balls for each one you take out of the assembly. When it is all cleaned up and ready to re assemble, take one new ball, place it on the seat, and stick a punch up against the ball and smack it with a hammer. That reforms the seat, but can damage the punched side of the ball, so throw it out. Put the second new ball in place and assemble.

Listen closely to what is said above. I always have to remember that when I worked on the pumps we had all the parts we wanted and the equipment was relatively new. Now some 60 plus years later lots of things have happened that can cause the problems your are experiencing.

Be sure to clean the pump thoroughly getting every bit of crud out. When we sold them we used 20w non detergent oil. Worked fine and provided lubrication for the transmission and gear box. Again, worked fine. Occasionally when the transmission got dirty we would fill it with kerosene, run it some - no hydraulic action - drain it and put new oil in. Some of these units have been sitting outside for years and god knows what has gotten into the hydraulic - transmission system. There is a rack of valves that run the length of the pump. Be certain they are carefully cleaned and move.

Wow I had no idea that what I bought and put in their would be that low-quality and I appreciate the time you spent two educate me on this because I have three Allis-Chalmers tractors that I probably would have put it in all of them without knowing...

When I bought this tractor a few years ago the hydraulics actually worked better with the milky white looking hydraulic fluid I drained out of it than what it does now with new 303 fluid that"s in it now.

I am tempted to remove it and clean it out but have zero experience with hydraulic pumps, I am mechanically minded as I"ve been electrician almost 25 years so I know I can do it.

Any information that you can share will be greatly appreciated and I guess I will go to a specific tractor service and sales place I have locally instead of the big box store to get some better hydraulic fluid. (I really thought what I was buying was fine because reading on the label it actually points out that it"s made for 1960s and older Allis Chalmers tractors)

Ok, I think I"m going to try drain/fill before rebuilding it( mostly because it worked pretty good before I drained it out, and the only reason I drained it is because it looked milky and foamed out the fill plug when it got hot)

The cheaper fluid you used is not the problem. The 303 may not be the best oil, but is better than what came in it XX years ago. Your problem may have come from something that was in the XX year old oil, but changing it will not fix the problem. Take it apart, clean, replace springs, seals or anything else that is worn. Anything stuck, free it up. MACK

No such thing as a kit for this pump. It only has two O rings for soft parts the shaft seals and they never go bad unless you tear them. Take it off the tractor put on the bench it"s best to use something like a cake sheet to disassemble on. Each of the 4 Pistons has a small spring behind them. Each of the 4 plugs on the top has a ball behind it pull the control back part off . Slide out the pins that hold the actuating levers in place and remove the Pistons and springs make sure the springs aren"t broke 3 Are the same the 4th is smaller diameter. Now carefully clean out the passages from the piston there are no seals just metal to metal the seats up top and the balls need to be clean and not deformed. Keep track of the 4 little slugs that slide in from the back they need to go back in the same order. There is a spring behind them that pushes against the feel after valve adjuster screw. More than 90 % of these pumps can be repaired by simple good cleaning. The pump Pistons get stuck and the cheek balls get crud in them. I"ve had 2 pumps that needed a spring and one I had to repair the linkage in the cap it was wore out. I assume it ran a long time without oil as it was all rusty. This pump should have oil in it. I"ve only ever seen one with rust. Once you get it on the bench an take it apart it"s pretty apparent how it goes back together. You can look up the parts diagram on the AGCO parts site.

Don"t buy the kit. It has a lot of parts you don"t need plus expensive. Replace the 4 springs above check balls, as they break and stick spool valve. 4 big orings in body and one small one between hold poison valve and pump body. There are 3 in hold poison valve that won"t be needed unless it is leaking. 3 gaskets you will need. Good luck. MACK

2.5)any way to flush system out before I reinstall clean pump to minimize contamination back into pump from transmission/ shared area that may have junk in it?

7) brings up another question, if all is working good with clean hydraulic system can adding/ introducing new hydraulic components put bad oil left in old cylinders and lines get into my pump and possibly cause another system failure?( I"m thinking answer is yes but my hydraulic knowledge is minimal)

So to clean out the transmission area you sprayed brake cleaner into housing area once pump was removed through the hole created by removing the pump?

I don"t know if I"m thinking about it correct but I"m wanting to remove/disassemble pump and then clean everything else possible so when I reinstall the clean pump gunk doesn"t get back into my pump and clog it up again...

Here we are, 3 of hydraulic pump and 1 of the oil I drained out(303 super that was only used about 6 hours to brush hog the end a few hours with a post hole auger)

I"m kinda sure my "cavity" was painted with "Glyptol" or some other weird spelt product that sealed the cast iron. The "knowledge base" will know.....

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In these extraordinary times it is even more important to keep connecting and engaging . We promise to keep moving in order to keep u competitive . That’s why we are 24/7 available @ your Service. We bring to you a state or arts products in Hydraulics from Various Manufacturers to your Door step .

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