williams hydraulic pump model 40 free sample

Williams Model 40 Pump Flow 3.7 GPM 14 LPM @ 1000 RPM - Displacement/Revolution 0.9 cubic inches 14.7cc - Maximum Pressure 3500 PSIG 240 bar - Drive speed range 300 to 1000 RPM - Maximum drive speed 1000 RPM - Bi-al - Input Shaft 1" 2.54mm, keyed - Replacement Pump for 40 Series Bailey No. 250-542

I had no idea a leak with the hydraulic system could simply be caused by the battery not being fully charged. I guess it makes sense, if the battery isn’t charged enough to support the press, then the pressure will build till the oil gets pushed out. I will have to tell my friend who has a dump trailer about this so he can keep it running smoothly. Thank you for the information!I have a trailer the battery seems is sufficiently charge but when I try to lift it the pump will not run,any idea of what the problem could be?Good Morning Jose,

The pump should have a relay mounted on the outside of the motor. I would try jumping that by taking a wire and touching both large terminals. This will bypass the relay which if the pump works then the relay will need to be replaced.

The other thing to watch is if the battery is low and you are lowering the box down, the pump is turning so slow that with the weight of the box pushing down on the pump it creates pressure, which typically the oil will spray out of the tank fill cap which is also the breather. But if the breather is plugged it looks for a spot to relieve the pressure, sometimes I have seen it actually crack the plastic tank.

Felling TrailersI have a dump trailer it raises and lowers just fine but when it’s all the way up it leaks down slowly what is the cause for this and how much would you charge me to get it fixedHello Clark, It could be a hydraulic cylinder or even bad o-rings in on the valve body. If you have more info we could troubleshoot it a bit more for you.

My dump trailer is sending power to both up & down solenoids at the same time…. brand new less then 10 dumps on pump – beyond frustrating can you all help me?

Can I connect my trailer to my trucks charging system with a splice of the large power wire that power my electric hydraulic plow? Since I would never be using them at the same time I figured this would solve the constantly read or under powered battery problems. If I can splice this should I remove the battery in the trailer or connect it together with it?Hi Eric,

In reply to your question on your hydraulic dump trailer, I suspect that you may have an internal leak in your hydraulic cylinder or in the pump both of these would allow the oil to pass through with not external leak.

Assuming that the battery has a good charge, I would then pull the valve and check the O-ring condition. The square coil on top of the pump controls the down function, you can remove the coil and then the valve will turn out of the housing. Something to keep in mind is that if the battery has a low charge and you lower the box this can cause pressure in the system because of the weight of the box and a pump that is barely turning the system will build pressure and usually shoots oil out of the vent cap.

Hi, I have a homesteader dump trailer. It has been sitting for a year or so before it was given to me. I put a set of cables from my diesel to the battery because it was dead and wanted to see what it would do. When I hit the up or down button on the the controle the pump motor will run and I can hear what I believe to be the solenoid click, but all that happens is the body will shift a very small amount and that’s it. What could be the issue?Hello Jeff,

Assuming that this just started I would suspect that the pressure relief valve may be inoperable, and may need to be replaced. To check the valve you will need to hook a pressure gauge to the pump to check the actual pressure which should be 3000 psi. If parts are needed we do have an online parts store, see the following page link to our Hydraulic Dump Trailers http://store.felling.com/dump-series/

Did you replaced 1 line or 2? If you replaced two lines it is possible that you hooked them up backwards, but if you only replaced the one, then I would put a pressure gauge on it to see what the pump is putting out. Assuming that this issue just started, it could be the pressure relief valve or could be a low or bad batter. The longer the pump runs the hotter it gets, so if its just barely lifting and you hold the button down the motor can get real hot.

I suspect that it may be the relay, if you jump between the two studs on the relay with a wire and then try it, if it works then the relay will need to be replaced.If you need replacement parts, we do have an online parts store, see the following page link to our Hydraulic Dump Trailers http://store.felling.com/dump-series/

This should not be a battery issue, but without knowing what brand of pump system is on the trailer, it is tough to be sure due to the fact that each manufacturer uses different set-ups. The first thing I would check is to make sure that your oil level is at the recommended running level. Secondly, check all hoses and fittings to make sure they are all tight and that we do not have any leaks in the systems which would allow for oil to leak out. Third, check and see if there might be a backflow/check valve inline that might be bad and allowing oil to flow back through the system. If all of these scenarios look good, you might have to look more into pump issues.

Felling Trailers Parts & ServiceMine does same thing it wont stay up…no leaksGood Afternoon Cody, A couple of questions and I can pass this on to our service department for there advice. What is the brand of trailer. Also what is the brand of the pump that is installed on your dump trailer.

I have a farm built, dual scissor ram, single pump system. Only one scissor system will work at a time. As the load shifts or if I disable one side the other scissor system works like a champ. How do get both sides to work in unison? Do I need some sort of priority flow control valve installed? If so where in the system and what type do I need? 14′ trailer. My system is a 5gal reservoir tank. It supplies dual 5in D rams(33″L) w/2in D rods each. HPU by Bailey 309-235A DSA1S1602S20H-25 12V [email protected] SGL ACT w/20ft remote. Pwr up/gravity down. Thanks, ChrisGood morning Chris,

If it’s a Felling trailer you can swap the two coils around on the top of the pump. The square coil controls the “down” and the round coil controls the “up” so if you swap the two around it should come down which if it does and won’t raise then the square coil needs to be replaced.

A quick way to test the motor is to use a good battery and jumper cables. Hook the cables to the battery and then hook the positive cable to the positive post on the pump and then the negative cable to the ground post on the motor. This will bypass everything and just power the motor which should make a squealing sound (it’s not going to pump fluid but should bear down) which if it does then the motor should be good if it does not make a noise then it has an issue. If the motor is bad you can take it to a local electric motor repair shop or call Felling Parts & Service or order online at http://www.store.felling.com, a complete new motor/pump.

It sounds as if the pump is “deadheading”, possibly the valve is not opening on the pump so the fluid is unable to flow. I would check the coil on top of the valve to make sure that it’s still good. If your pump is a power up and power down, you can try swapping the two coils around, if the box then goes up you would know it’s a bad coil. If the box does go up, you will need to swap the coils around again to bring the box back down.

If you have a KTI pump, (this is the same pump that we have used for the past 10 years or so) you can remove the round coil, (this controls the up function) by loosening the nut on top and the two wires. Then swap the round coil with the square coil, (this controls the down function located next to the round coil). After the coil swap is done, you can then lower the box. Note: By continuing to swap the two coils, the trailer can be used until you receive the new square coil that is typically the reason why the box won’t lower. These parts can be purchased from our online parts store http://store.felling.com/

If it’s a KTI pump which we have used the past 10 years or so I would try swapping the round coil and square coil around, the round coil controls the “up” function so it may be just a bad coil. As far as replacing the pump you would disconnect the wires and hoses, then remove the old pump and install the new which should be a fairly simple swap. After the pump swap has been made fill the tank up about half way and work the box up and down which will work the air out of the lines then make sure the tank is filled to the mark on the side of the tank.

I am not familiar with a Fenner pump, I would have thought that it was the coil, but since you already replaced it, I would suggest having a local hydraulic shop take a look at it or depending on their labor rate you may be better off replacing the pump which runs $435.95. This can be purchased online through our parts website http://store.felling.com/

Typically when the coil is the issue, the pump will do nothing. With the noise that you are hearing, I would look at the cartridge that the coils attach to. It would seem like the pump is trying to pump but it can’t push the oil through. To purchase the parts needed, visit our online store http://store.felling.com/.

My trailer is new this year, works fine but just has a bit of a jiggle on the way down … is this something to worry about ? I typically just take it down extra slow so it doesn’t do it badly, it is a 5 ton dual Cylinder model

The solenoid could possibly be stuck open and may need to be replaced. If you are able to disconnect the switch and then put power to the pump, if it does the same thing I would look at the solenoid but if it only does it with the switch in place that would indicate a possible bad switch.

I’m not sure which brand or style of pump you have. However, there should be a coil to control the up and possibly another if it’s power down. If it has two coils, you can swap the two around to see if it lifts which if it does you will need to swap them around to bring the box back down.

Hi, not sure if this question has been asked and I did not read through all the questions and answers: my question is, my cylinder on my dump trailer has what looks like a pressure relief but. I thought it was a damaged nut and decided to change it out and put a solid nut. When I went to lift the box, I noticed it did not lift to its full capacity. I went back to remove the nut and place back the original one and when I did that I was hit in the face with hydraulic oil. I am thinking that the original nut has its reason for having this relief hole, but nonetheless I think it’s damaged. What is the purpose for this type of nut and what is it called and where can I find a replacement?Good morning Jose,

i have a Big Tex dump trailer with a Bulcher Hydraulic pump, it is both power up and power down. can i change the down side to free flow down and if so what is the procedure? only want to free flow down to save battery charge time for multiple dumps.Good day, Will

I am not familiar with the Bulcher brand pump however, most pumps will allow for different valving, so the pump becomes gravity down. I would watch the pricing for just the valve vs. a new power up gravity down pump as I have seen that sometimes there is much of a difference between the two so it might be better to just replace the pump. One other thing to consider is a good deep cycle battery, if you don’t already have one on the trailer, we have much better luck with deep cycles than just a regular battery.

A battery will always discharge on its own, so if its sitting for a long time (a few months over winter something like that) it may be normal however if it’s a shorter period of time then I would look for a draw. The pump could be drawing it down or we have seen a few trailers that because of corrosion issues the taillights are actually powered drawing off of the battery with the trailer disconnected from the tow vehicle.

It looks like the trailer is rated for 4800 payload, however that does need to be evenly distributed. If the load is evenly distributed and under 4800 I would start by making sure that the battery is fully charged and would have the battery load tested to make sure that it’s giving the pump what it needs to operate correctly. If the battery test ok, then you have to look at the pump. I’m not familiar with the capacity of the pump that Big Tex uses, but typically most dump trailers require 3000 psi, so I would confirm (usually a tag on the side of the pump) working psi of that pump and confirm that the pump is putting out that required psi.

I have a 2015 Load Trail dump trailer. I believe it has the KTI hydraulic motor. The issue I’m having is when I lift the trailer it only goes about half way up and the battery dies, I purchased a brand new battery and it’s still doing. Any idea what may be causing my battery to die?Hello Rodrigo,

Before we can answer your question to the best of our ability, we need a bit more information. Is this pump a power up power down style pump or just a power-up gravity down?

Hello, I have a 2017 H&H 22′ Speedloader car hauler trailer and has power up and power down. When I have a load on it like a truck and accelerate the front of the deck starts to lift a few 3-4 inches (has no deck lock on the power tilt model). Could this be a battery issue as well?Hi Walt,

Sounds like possibly a bad coil, I would suggest if it acts up again to swap the two coils around that are located on the top of the pump. There is a round shaped coil (up) next to a square coil (down) on the top side of the pump if you raise the box and it will not lower then switch the two coils around. This should lower the box and would indicate that the square coil is bad and would need to be replaced. If you wanted to continue to use the trailer while waiting for a new coil you can still operate the pump you would just need to continue to swap the coils to raise the box and then lower. This is something that we have seen in the past. As far as the blown line I’m not sure the cause of that, the pump and hoses are rated for 3000 psi which is the maximum output of the pump.

Without knowing a brand of the pump there is some gray area but with our pumps, there are two solenoids located on the top of the pump. The round shaped solenoid controls up function and the square-shaped solenoid controls the down function if you swap these two around and the box raises then that solenoid is bad. If you find that you do have a bad solenoid you can continue to use the trailer but will need to swap them around to raise and lower the box until you receive a new solenoid.

I have a Monarch pump. The positive wire melted the post of the battery it got so hot while hosting a load up. I hooked booster cables to bring it the hoist down. The wire got so hot it started melting the casing of the wire. What do you think is the issue?Hello Pat,

Please help, Ifor Williams Tipping Trailer Manual Release Screw won’t stay in even after cleaning, tapping gently etc. Subsequently the trailer slowly lowers. I loaned it to a friend and there is evidence that the screw was manipulated with a pliers or a vice grip. Trailer was serviced recently and is fully fit. Any suggestions, please? DaveHello David,

I am not familiar with the system that Williams uses for their tipping trailers. I would suggest contacting their parts and service department or visiting their website for assistance in service the trailer.

I have a load trail dump with an kti pump. Everything worked just fine until I left it in the pasture and the cows chewed off all the wires. ( lid broke a while back) . I rewired all the controle box back and now i just get a clicking sound. I dont know if i am missing something, there is a two wire going inside the back from underneath the toung. I am assuming that is the battery charger but not sure.Hello Chris,

Before the trailer leaves it is inspected which part of that process is to run the box up and down so I suspect some type of component failure. The first thing I would look at is the remote, using a volt meter you can check to see if you have power going to the switch and then when the button is pushed is it sending power to the pump. If that test out fine then I would look at the coils that are located on the top of the pump, the round shaped coil controls the up function and the square-shaped coil controls the down function. If for example, the box will not raise, you can switch the wires from the round coil to the square coil then try running the box up, if it raises then that would indicate that the round coil is bad and needs to be replaced. This is the same if the box raises but won’t lower, switch the wires around and if it comes back down then this would indicate that the square coil is bad and needs to be replaced.

I have a 12′ dump trailer. It seems to go up and down fine, however, I noticed that recently it was leaking hydraulic fluid around where the box is located in the front of the trailer. It is a power up, power down system. I recently powered up when there was slightly low battery and then powered back down. It seemed to never run out, but I suspect that this possibly could have contributed to the issue. Do you know what the issue could be? Thank you!Hi Nick,

Typically most leaks are caused by a battery with a low charge when the box is coming down the pump can’t keep up with the pressure. This creates excessive pressure causing the oil to blow out of the breather on the tank. You may want to also check that the breather is not plugged with dirt, this can cause excessive pressure too that could result in cracks in the tank.

Felling TrailersI have a KTI Pump. I am having the same issues with the reservoir cap blowing off and fluid spraying everywhere. My battery is new and fully charged and the breather is clean. I have noticed on the remote that I can slightly press the “down” button to lower the bed and the pump motor does not run OR I can fully press the “down” button and the pump motor runs as the bed is lowering. Which is the proper way to press the button? And also any other ideas what could cause the fluid to continually over flow besides an overfilled reservoir, low battery, or dirty breather?Good morning Cody, This is the advice our Service Department has given.

“If you are building pressure and have a fully charged battery I would check and make sure that you are getting the full 12 volt to the pump, if you are not getting the full 12 volts the pump will turn slower and then with the weight of the box will build pressure as you lower it.”

If this happens to be on one of our trailers or off of a KTI pump assembly, the following items should work. Depending on the age of the trailer you might not need all three parts, but by replacing all three parts you eliminate any concern of any other damaged areas in the rest of the harness.

Can you confirm that you have 12 volts on the pump side of the solenoid? If so then I would look at the coils. I’m not sure which brand pump Quality uses but there should be two coils on top of the motor (could be square shaped or round shaped), one of the coils controls the up motion and the other controls the down motion. These coils can easily be swapped which is an easy way to see if your “up” coil is bad. If you swap them and the box will raise but now won’t lower than you know that the coil is bad and should be replaced. If you find that this is the problem and need to use the trailer while waiting for the part to arrive you can continue to swap the two coils around to raise and then lower the box. If you are in need of parts feel free to visit us online at https://store.felling.com/

My ol dump truck just clicks when I go to raise the bed.. start the truck drive a bit then it raises sometimes.. shut it off then it clicks again often raises ar times.. the pump is running off the truck battery…helpGood afternoon Bruce,

I have a 6-ton Anderson trailer, it won’t raise it just makes a winding noise. So I first bought a new battery thinking the battery is bad. Still did not raise. Then I drained and pumped out all old hydraulic oil and put in new. It is still just making a winding noise. I’m hoping someone has an answer for me. Please help.

Not sure what kinda trailer or pump I have (no name on pump and bought used with no title) its a 7×14 dual ram. But I had it about 1 foot up when I disconnected the battery to change it out and it went back down. Once I had new battery connected now it barely goes up and falls back down when I let offGood afternoon Justin, Our service dept. is stating it could possibly be a sticky valve, they suggest putting a gauge on the hose to see how much actual pressure the pump is pumping out.

“I’m not sure which brand of pump is on the trailer but some these hydraulic pumps that are used in these heavier applications are very light pumps and as you know sparks are never good. I would suggest either replacing the pump which typically runs about 400 dollars or I would pull the pump and have it bench tested at a local starter/elec. shop.” Scot Brown

Have a small dump truck with a 12 volt hyd pump like on a lot of trailer it acts like it looses prime if you put a little air pressure in tank it will raise but one you stop you have to blow air in it to get to go upGood Morning Clarence, Our Parts and Service Manager has this advise for you. “Is this something that it just started doing? It sounds as if the oil tank isn’t big enough so there isn’t enough oil but this should have been issue since day one so if it just stared doing it I would guess a bad O-ring on the cartridge on the pump.”

Just bought a 2015 Belmont dump trailer, 7×12 gravity down. Not sure on brand of pump, my issue is when I try to load a skid steer with the factory ramps the entire bed lifts to the up into the lift portion, like there is no pressure to the piston. I have an adjustable pressure relief valve that is stock. I have tried every adjustment with no difference except the speed of the gravity down ( that makes me assume the adjuster works). I’ve seen a million guys load skid steers onto dump trailers with out this issue. Any ideas?Good Morning Michael,

“I tried to access Belmont Trailers website to figure out what style pump they use but was unable to open their site. It would help to know the brand pump?

Felling TrailersIt’s labeled, Bucher hydraulics. I’ve tried to load with the bed lifted some to reduce the pitch, also tried in the transport position. Also tried forward and backwards. The pivot point is exactly 24 inches from the center of the rear axle. Does the pressure relief adjustment valve have anything to do with it? I can’t believe I can’t load a machine onto a dump trailer, really embarrassing. Thanks for the replie.Good Morning Mike,

Our parts and service supervisor tried pulling some information from Bucher’s website but was unable, see that they have some distributers in the USA and I would give them a call and see what their thoughts are in regards to this issue. I wouldn’t think that the pressure relief would be an issue but I just don’t know enough about their pumps.

Just bought this older 7×14 1400gvw 10 ton trailer tech the problem I’m having is it’s slow to load and retract or lift and return have to wait for the battery to catch up on its trickle charge it drains the battery have to do this a few time going up and same coming down. I made a mistake and forgot the cylinder lock in place then power it down think it pushed the breather cap on the filler cap to blow apart and oil to shoot out. (after id taken it up and got the lockout then when I lowered it is shot a liter of oil out but res didn’t look low, now pump motor will go so far and stall out draining battery voltage and have to wait for the voltage to build up this is the same both ways it is single cylinder scissor lift any ideas I’m thinking it is like fighting against its self hydraulically did a battery drain test on battery it bounces back pretty fast and this is empty.Hello Tom,

We suggest to perform an amp test and see how many amps the pump os drawing. If it’s draining a good battery that quickly you may need to replace or rebuild the motor.

What is the recommended hydraulic oil for a 21013 Felling FT-14DT Hydraulic Dump Trailer? Thanks,Good Morning, We recommend using AFT – Automatic Transmission Fluid for your FT-14DT.

I have a big tex 25du dump trailer the hydraulic pump is not working, where can I buy a new pump? And how do I know the part number or the right pump? Double action, single action? 10 quarts or 15 or 20 quart. any help would be appreciatedGood Afternoon, I’m not sure what brand pump that Big Tex uses, I would recommend A KTI DC4309 which we stock $435.95.

ThanksGood Afternoon Greg, We use Dexron (automatic transmission fluid) in the hydraulic systems for dump trailers and far as a hourly maintenance schedule, KTI doesn’t have one. They recommend that if the oil condition changes such as a brownish color, water appearing in the tank or visual dirt the oil should be changed. Hope this helps you, if you have any other questions feel free to contact our parts and service dept. at 1-866-335-5464.

Dump trailer won’t raise. Pump starts sounds normal for 2 secs then changes to a high pitch noise, Nothing happens during this time. Good battery and fluid. My daughter had the remote switch with the down button pushed while it was already down, it was making a weird noise before I could remove her from the switch. Does anybody have any suggestions?Good Afternoon Ernie,

On top of the pump (if it’s a Felling) there are a square and round coil, I would remove those coils and swap them. If the round coil (up) is bad it should raise, if it does then we know the coil is bad.

my bed is stick in the up position I have removed the hydraulic hose still cant get bed to come down s this the house or the cylinderGood Morning Fred,

If it’s a KTI pump? There are two ports, the A port (top) usually goes to the bottom of the cylinder and the B port goes to the top of the cylinder. Either way will work it just may not match the up/down buttons.

If it’s a Felling/KTI brand pump, you can swap the square coil (down) with the round coil (up) and see if it comes down. If it then works, the coil will need to be replaced.

is it possible to put a 14 gvw pump on 10gvw dump trailer im having issues with not lifting it and killing the battery after 4 or 5 dumpsGood Morning Danny,

I have a Big Tex 14LP trailer. It is less than two weeks old. I have about 2 yards of soil and tree debris on the trailer and it will not dump. The battery is fully charged. The hydraulic lines appear to be unobstructed. When I press up the scissor hydraulic presses mid bed and there is minor movement. The end closest to the truck does not move at all.

We would suggest calling Big Tex to find out with the hydraulic pressure should be and then check the pump with a gauge to make sure the pump is putting out the correct pressure.

Typically the round coil is up and the square is down, if by switching these around the pump will work this is a sign that the coil is bad. If replacing the coil hasn’t fixed it, I would look at that cartridge.

If it’s a KTI brand pump?? We most likely depending on the pump, if it’s not a KTI then possibly Bailey Hydraulics. You can call our Parts and Service Dept. at 1-866-335-5464 for more detailed information.

I have a 10′ Moritz Commercial dump trailer I believe its power up / gravity down (pump has 1 round coil only) I was doing my pre-winter maintenance and now it won’t come Back down ??? Help ???

I have a problem with my trailer, I replaced the hydraulic pump because it only went up halfway, I installed the new one and I have the same problem. it reaches the middle of the road and does not go up.Good Evening Christopher,

Possibly the cylinder has an internal leak that the oil leak through the piston, if there is a local hydraulic vendor they could possibly check it. We have found that sometimes the price of a new cylinder is about the same price or cheaper than repairing which is something that you should look at.

I have a 20 foot Sure Pull dump trailer. It was lifting the other day but now won’t budge while empty. The pump is running with a new fully charged battery, the solenoids appear to be opening the valves (I removed the valves and actuated them with the solenoid and they click, and sound like they’re opening). I even removed the hose to the bottom of the hydraulic piston and it’s pumping fluid to the piston. Of course I don’t know the pressure.

I wouldn’t mind buying a whole new pump and reservoir (slightly larger in fluid capacity than I have now) but I don’t know if the pump is the problem.

You should put a gauge on the pump to verify that it’s putting out adequate pressure (generally 3000 psi), if you are getting pressure to the cylinder then I would guess you have an internal issue in the hydraulic cylinder.

HansUnfortunately, we do not, you will need to go to an auto parts store and purchase the parts to build one or find a hydraulic shop and have them test it.

Hi I have a 2018 14000 lb dump trailer. When I load my mini excavator into the bed, the front of the trailer bed raises up. The mini ex weighs 9500 lbs. At first the dump bed only raised a few inches but now it’s a foot or more. What’s wrong? I’d love to send you a video. What email would I send it to?

If loaded, will the box hold in the raised (or somewhat raised) without lowering down on its own? There could be an internal leak inside the cylinder or the valve body on the pump allowing oil to bypass however you should notice the box coming down as it won’t hold the pressure.

I bought a used trailer and I changed the pump new and the battery, but the problem is that it won’t lift up the dirt load. We just changed the the motor but didn’t change any hoses.Good afternoon Rolando,

I have a loadstar dump trailer, when you hit the up button the solenoid clicks but will not engage the pump. Trying to figure out if it needs a new solenoid.Good afternoon Carl,

Hello. I have a ’19 Lamar dump trailer that is stuck in the dump position. KTI pump. Remote is making good contact. Both coils check at 5 Ohms. I have swapped the round coil(up) with the square coil (down) and bed still will not lower.Good morning Casey,

I don’t know Load King uses for pumps or the capacity, you could check with the manufacture to get the specs of the pump and then see if there is a lager GPM (gallons per minute) pump available.

Hello I have a Monarch single acting pump on a dump trailer my problem is it doesn’t stay up it looses pressure can you please help.Good morning Eric,

Could be a bad O-ring in the valve body of the pump or the hydraulic cylinder, you would need to pull them apart to inspect the O-rings which at that point I would just replace them.

If the battery is fully charged, then I would look for a restriction in the pump, this would also cause the pressure to build and could lead to the oil being pushed out.

Is the battery low? If the battery is low and you are lowering the box, the pump cannot turn fast enough and the weight of the box will build pressure in the system. If there is enough pressure in the system, the oil will come out of the breather/oil fill cap.

My pre 2003 Bri-Mar dump trailer will not lift. When I press the up switch, I get a click. Tried jumping the solenoid and still does not lift. I removed and replaced the ground wire from the battery to the box/frame and still does not lift. Then I placed jumper cables from the negative terminal to the steel hydaulic fittings attached to the pump body and low and behold, the pump worked. So obviously my pump is not grounded properly. I do have a ground lead to the body of the solenoid, but that does not touch the pump body. The solenoid is supported by a coper bracket attached to the positive lead on the pump and solenoid and is suspended over the pump body. I am not sure how the pump should be grounded. Suggestions?Hello Brian,

Hello, I have a dump trailer with a kti hydraulic pump power up gravity down and my issue is that the ram will not extend all the way out. It struggles to extend when its about 90% extended. I have no leaks and a fully charged battery. Any way to fix this? Thank you.Good Morning Anthony,

There could be a decrease in pressure, I would check the pressure at the pump with a gauge. Typically these pumps should put out about 3,000 psi at the pump.

Check that the pump shaft is rotating. Even though coupling guards and C-face mounts can make this difficult to confirm, it is important to establish if your pump shaft is rotating. If it isn’t, this could be an indication of a more severe issue, and this should be investigated immediately.

Check the oil level. This one tends to be the more obvious check, as it is often one of the only factors inspected before the pump is changed. The oil level should be three inches above the pump suction. Otherwise, a vortex can form in the reservoir, allowing air into the pump.

What does the pump sound like when it is operating normally? Vane pumps generally are quieter than piston and gear pumps. If the pump has a high-pitched whining sound, it most likely is cavitating. If it has a knocking sound, like marbles rattling around, then aeration is the likely cause.

Cavitation is the formation and collapse of air cavities in the liquid. When the pump cannot get the total volume of oil it needs, cavitation occurs. Hydraulic oil contains approximately nine percent dissolved air. When the pump does not receive adequate oil volume at its suction port, high vacuum pressure occurs.

This dissolved air is pulled out of the oil on the suction side and then collapses or implodes on the pressure side. The implosions produce a very steady, high-pitched sound. As the air bubbles collapse, the inside of the pump is damaged.

While cavitation is a devastating development, with proper preventative maintenance practices and a quality monitoring system, early detection and deterrence remain attainable goals. UE System’s UltraTrak 850S CD pump cavitation sensor is a Smart Analog Sensor designed and optimized to detect cavitation on pumps earlier by measuring the ultrasound produced as cavitation starts to develop early-onset bubbles in the pump. By continuously monitoring the impact caused by cavitation, the system provides a simple, single value to trend and alert when cavitation is occurring.

The oil viscosity is too high. Low oil temperature increases the oil viscosity, making it harder for the oil to reach the pump. Most hydraulic systems should not be started with the oil any colder than 40°F and should not be put under load until the oil is at least 70°F.

Many reservoirs do not have heaters, particularly in the South. Even when heaters are available, they are often disconnected. While the damage may not be immediate, if a pump is continually started up when the oil is too cold, the pump will fail prematurely.

The suction filter or strainer is contaminated. A strainer is typically 74 or 149 microns in size and is used to keep “large” particles out of the pump. The strainer may be located inside or outside the reservoir. Strainers located inside the reservoir are out of sight and out of mind. Many times, maintenance personnel are not even aware that there is a strainer in the reservoir.

The suction strainer should be removed from the line or reservoir and cleaned a minimum of once a year. Years ago, a plant sought out help to troubleshoot a system that had already had five pumps changed within a single week. Upon closer inspection, it was discovered that the breather cap was missing, allowing dirty air to flow directly into the reservoir.

A check of the hydraulic schematic showed a strainer in the suction line inside the tank. When the strainer was removed, a shop rag was found wrapped around the screen mesh. Apparently, someone had used the rag to plug the breather cap opening, and it had then fallen into the tank. Contamination can come from a variety of different sources, so it pays to be vigilant and responsible with our practices and reliability measures.

The electric motor is driving the hydraulic pump at a speed that is higher than the pump’s rating. All pumps have a recommended maximum drive speed. If the speed is too high, a higher volume of oil will be needed at the suction port.

Due to the size of the suction port, adequate oil cannot fill the suction cavity in the pump, resulting in cavitation. Although this rarely happens, some pumps are rated at a maximum drive speed of 1,200 revolutions per minute (RPM), while others have a maximum speed of 3,600 RPM. The drive speed should be checked any time a pump is replaced with a different brand or model.

Every one of these devastating causes of cavitation threatens to cause major, irreversible damage to your equipment. Therefore, it’s not only critical to have proper, proactive practices in place, but also a monitoring system that can continuously protect your valuable assets, such as UE System’s UltraTrak 850S CD pump cavitation senor. These sensors regularly monitor the health of your pumps and alert you immediately if cavitation symptoms are present, allowing you to take corrective action before it’s too late.

Aeration is sometimes known as pseudo cavitation because air is entering the pump suction cavity. However, the causes of aeration are entirely different than that of cavitation. While cavitation pulls air out of the oil, aeration is the result of outside air entering the pump’s suction line.

Several factors can cause aeration, including an air leak in the suction line. This could be in the form of a loose connection, a cracked line, or an improper fitting seal. One method of finding the leak is to squirt oil around the suction line fittings. The fluid will be momentarily drawn into the suction line, and the knocking sound inside the pump will stop for a short period of time once the airflow path is found.

A bad shaft seal can also cause aeration if the system is supplied by one or more fixed displacement pumps. Oil that bypasses inside a fixed displacement pump is ported back to the suction port. If the shaft seal is worn or damaged, air can flow through the seal and into the pump’s suction cavity.

As mentioned previously, if the oil level is too low, oil can enter the suction line and flow into the pump. Therefore, always check the oil level with all cylinders in the retracted position.

If a new pump is installed and pressure will not build, the shaft may be rotating in the wrong direction. Some gear pumps can be rotated in either direction, but most have an arrow on the housing indicating the direction of rotation, as depicted in Figure 2.

Pump rotation should always be viewed from the shaft end. If the pump is rotated in the wrong direction, adequate fluid will not fill the suction port due to the pump’s internal design.

A fixed displacement pump delivers a constant volume of oil for a given shaft speed. A relief valve must be included downstream of the pump to limit the maximum pressure in the system.

After the visual and sound checks are made, the next step is to determine whether you have a volume or pressure problem. If the pressure will not build to the desired level, isolate the pump and relief valve from the system. This can be done by closing a valve, plugging the line downstream, or blocking the relief valve. If the pressure builds when this is done, there is a component downstream of the isolation point that is bypassing. If the pressure does not build up, the pump or relief valve is bad.

If the system is operating at a slower speed, a volume problem exists. Pumps wear over time, which results in less oil being delivered. While a flow meter can be installed in the pump’s outlet line, this is not always practical, as the proper fittings and adapters may not be available. To determine if the pump is badly worn and bypassing, first check the current to the electric motor. If possible, this test should be made when the pump is new to establish a reference. Electric motor horsepower is relative to the hydraulic horsepower required by the system.

For example, if a 50-GPM pump is used and the maximum pressure is 1,500 psi, a 50-hp motor will be required. If the pump is delivering less oil than when it was new, the current to drive the pump will drop. A 230-volt, 50-hp motor has an average full load rating of 130 amps. If the amperage is considerably lower, the pump is most likely bypassing and should be changed.

Figure 4.To isolate a fixed displacement pump and relief valve from the system, close a valve or plug the line downstream (left). If pressure builds, a component downstream of the isolation point is bypassing (right).

The most common type of variable displacement pump is the pressure-compensating design. The compensator setting limits the maximum pressure at the pump’s outlet port. The pump should be isolated as described for the fixed displacement pump.

If pressure does not build up, the relief valve or pump compensator may be bad. Prior to checking either component, perform the necessary lockout procedures and verify that the pressure at the outlet port is zero psi. The relief valve and compensator can then be taken apart and checked for contamination, wear, and broken springs.

Install a flow meter in the case drain line and check the flow rate. Most variable displacement pumps bypass one to three percent of the maximum pump volume through the case drain line. If the flow rate reaches 10 percent, the pump should be changed. Permanently installing a flow meter in the case drain line is an excellent reliability and troubleshooting tool.

Ensure the compensator is 200 psi above the maximum load pressure. If set too low, the compensator spool will shift and start reducing the pump volume when the system is calling for maximum volume.

Performing these recommended tests should help you make good decisions about the condition of your pumps or the cause of pump failures. If you change a pump, have a reason for changing it. Don’t just do it because you have a spare one in stock.

Conduct a reliability assessment on each of your hydraulic systems so when an issue occurs, you will have current pressure and temperature readings to consult.

Al Smiley is the president of GPM Hydraulic Consulting Inc., located in Monroe, Georgia. Since 1994, GPM has provided hydraulic training, consulting and reliability assessments to companies in t...

Use this pipe flow calculator to analyze the properties of water flowing in a gravity-fed system. You only need to know the diameter of the pipe, the material it"s made of, its length, and the drop in height. We then apply the Hazen-Williams equation for you, which calculates the resulting velocity and discharge. Interested? Read on to discover the formulas we use and to see an easy-to-follow example calculation.

The gravity flow of water is when the flow of water in a pipe is caused by the force of gravity. The flow will happen as long as there is an altitude difference between the source water (upstream source) and the discharge point. There must also be no external energy (for example, from a pump) used to move the water forward.

The Hazen-Williams equation is an empirically derived formula that describes the velocity of water in a gravity flow. Remember that the Hazen-Williams equation is valid only for water – applying it for any other fluid will give you inaccurate results. It also doesn"t take into account the temperature of the water, and is only accurate for the 40-75 °F (4-25 °C) range.

The hydraulic radius, RRR, is the proportion between the area and the perimeter of your pipe. If the pipe is circular, you will find it according to the following equation:

where rrr is the pipe radius, and ddd is the pipe diameter. In this pipe flow calculator"s Advanced mode, you can view and modify all these parameters (area, perimeter, hydraulic radius).

First use the Hazen-Williams equation to find the velocity of the fluid: v = k × C × R0.63 × S0.54. In this equation, k is either 0.489 for metric or 1.318 if using imperial units, C is the roughness coefficient of the pipe material, R is the hydraulic radius (cross-sectional area divided by perimeter), and S is the slope of the pipe.

The Darcy-Weisbach equation with the Moody diagram is considered to be the most accurate model for estimating frictional head loss for a steady pipe flow. Since the Darcy-Weisbach equation requires iterative calculation an alternative empirical head loss calculation like the Hazen-Williams equation may be preferred: h100ft = 0.2083 (100 / c)1.852 q1.852/ dh4.8655 (1)

Note that the Hazen-Williams formula is empirical and lacks a theoretical basis. Be aware that the roughness constants are based on "normal" conditions with approximately 1 m/s (3 ft/sec).

200 gal/min of water flows in a 3 inch PEH pipe DR 15 with inside diameter 3.048 inches. The roughness coefficient for PEH pipe is 140 and the length of the pipe is 30 ft. The head loss for 100 ft pipe can be calculated as

The Hazen-Williams equation is not the only empirical formula available. Manning"s formula is commonly used to calculate gravity driven flows in open channels.

The Hazen-Williams equation is assumed to be relatively accurate for water flow in piping systems when the water temperature is in the range 40 - 75 oF (5 - 25oC)and the kinematic viscosity is approximately 1.1 cSt

Since the Hazen-Williams method is only valid for water flow- the Darcy Weisbach method should be used for other liquids or gases. 1 ft (foot) = 0.3048 m

We stock many models manufactured by Williams Instruments as well as the spare parts for repairing the units. The pumps can be used for chemical injection (on-shore/off-shore), corrosion inhibitor solutions, anti-oxidant dosing, flavouring applications and pH adjustment solutions.

When used for in the industries dealing with Natural Gas, LPG & LNG, Williams units are used for the metering of corrosion inhibitors for instrument protection, methanol to prevent freezing, and odorant injection for public safety. The Off-shore industry uses the Williams pneumatic pumps for the metering of Oil and Gas corrosion inhibitors, emulsion breakers, oxygen scavengers, methanol injection and many other applications.

Designed for use in hazardous or explosion-proof environments complying with European "ATEX" certification. In the Oil, Refining and Petrochemical industry, Williams instruments are used for the metering of chemicals in all phases of production, processing, refining, transmission and distribution of oil and gas products. Pumps can be offered with electronic automated process control for both single or multi head dosing applications.

The "V" series pneumatic chemical injection Plunger pump offers a dual seal plunger design and they offer flow rates of up to 34.75 litres per hour and operates to discharge pressures up to13,100 PsiG.

* This data should only be used to provide you with initial size selection. Contact Pump and Package for the performance graphs to allow varification of your pump selection.

The Williams "X" series dual seal plunger pump is also available up to the size of the CRP750-400. These units offer similar flowrates to the "V" series, but the discharge pressures are lower. The "X" series feature anodized aluminium oscillamatic controller® which means they are for non-corrosive applications.

* This data should only be used to provide you with initial size selection. Contact Pump and Package for the performance graphs to allow varification of your pump selection.

Offering higher flowrates than the "V" series the "W" series pneumatic plunger pumps offer flow rates up to 336 litres an hour and are able to deal with discharge pressures up to 3450 PsiG.

As with the "V" pump, the Williams "W" series offers both the adjustment of the stroke rate and the stroke length providing 100 - 1 turndown of volume and all pumps can be multi-headed.

* This data should only be used to provide you with initial size selection. Contact Pump and Package for the performance graphs to allow varification of your pump selection.

The low pressure "LD" diaphragm metering pumps offer flow rates up to 170.3 litres per hour at 100 PsiG. Diaphragm metering pumps are fitted with Teflon diaphragms as standard and can be supplied with bodies manufactured from 316 Stainless Steel or Teflon c/w check valves.

* This data should only be used to provide you with initial size selection. Contact Pump and Package for the performance graphs to allow varification of your pump selection.

Williams and Milton Roy have combined technologies to design a pump, blending the proven mRoy® hydraulic by-pass diaphragm design with the Williams "V" Series pump. The result is the low volume, high turndown characteristics of a pneumatic drive coupled with the chemical containment and high pressure capabilities of a hydraulically actuated diaphragm Body materials are 316 stainless steel, c/w diaphragm PTFE and features an integral relief valve.

The Williams WRB pumps have the option of rupture detection on the diaphragm, making the unit safer to use in environmentally sensitive areas that need to be leak free.

* This data should only be used to provide you with initial size selection. Contact Pump and Package for the performance graphs to allow varification of your pump selection.

Williams Milton Roy offer various accessories to complement their range of pump components such as controllers, relays, filters and regulators etc. Please click on the links below to see examples of these:

This tool is built as a check on friction loss across a single pipe. If you"re looking to estimate the size of an underground main, for example, you"re going to want to include the most flow across that pipe. If you have a sprinkler system light hazard and are including your hose allowance across the underground, then find your light hazard system flow + hose allowance and use that total flow for this calculator. Everything will be finalized with the hydraulic calculations, but this tool can be helpful for estimating.