wood splitter hydraulic pump problems in stock

Hydraulic Log Splitter systems use pressurised fluid to power a force that is used behind a wedge to split wood. If the log splitter seems weak or not performing as it should then there is a strong likelihood that something is not right with how the splitter system is operating.

To begin with, check your log splitter and the wood you are trying to split. If a log is not splitting all the way through then the log may be too green or too large, meaning that it would require a greater force than your log splitting machine can manage. Also make sure the log is loaded properly and isn’t on an angle or is too long. If this is in order, then take a look at the wedge itself, as with heavy use they can become blunt and stop cutting as they should.

These vibrations or shaking could be due to the log splitter being low in hydraulic oil. If the levels look correct when checking this could mean that there is air within the oil lines. To fix this the bleed valve needs to be opened and the pressure plate needs to be cycled back and forth a few times.

Temperature could also be the culprit for loss of driving force, as hydraulic oil is more viscose in cold weather resulting in a weak response until the machine warms up.

The nut for the ram has possibly come off the piston if the ram has extended but not retracted. With the engine off, hold open the valve and push it back in using a narrow rod. However, with this issue you may need to bring it in or contact one of the Flowfit team to discuss replacing the nut to prevent damaging your hydraulic log splitter system if you use it again.

Log splitters are a relatively simple design, making them easy to maintain and fix, but if issues are persisting or you aren’t confident with fixing this machine then please do seek professional advice.

Depending on your model, you may have a bit of exploration to do to discover what is causing issues with your log splitter. The simplicity of the design, however, can help you pinpoint your exact concern. Luckily, you can correct many problems on your own, and this guide helps explain some of the most common ones to help narrow down your log splitter troubleshooting. Get out there and you’ll be back up and running sooner than later!

Themost popular log splitters use hydraulicsto power the force needed to split various-sized logs. Because of this, common problems are related to the power source provided to the hydraulics or the hydraulic pressure.

Gas splitters are powered bya 4-stroke enginethat requires regular maintenance. If you neglect your engine, you may have problems with your log splitter working properly. It is especially true if your splitter won’t start or stay running.

Unfortunately, electric engines are not something you can work on easily. Often, they require a professional if you feel the problem is located in the engine, and many times the cost of the engine repair is more than what a new splitter might cost.

You are the power source for a manual hydraulic splitter, and these simple designs are pretty easy to troubleshoot simply because there is not much to the overall design.

Hydraulic issues are common and generally easy to pinpoint. Hydraulic systems use pressurized fluid to power a force. In a log splitter, the engine pressurized fluid which powers the driving force behind the wedge to split the wood.

If your splitter is bogging down under pressure or seems weak, chances are there is something wrong with how this system operates about the size of the hydraulic pump and what it is capable of. There are a few things you can do to address these issues correctly.

First, you need to narrow down the problem through your observations. You also need to look at actions before blaming the hydraulic system. A good knowledge of what your splitter is capable of and how a log splitter works is a great place to start.

If your log is not splitting through, it may be too green or too large and require a greater force than what your machine can handle, and you should check the tonnage. If you know this is not the case, then taking a closer look at the hydraulic system is in need.

If you experience vibration or shaking during operation, chances are you have a low hydraulic oil level. Check the level and top it off if needed. If the levels are correct, you may have air in the lines.

If your cylinder rod won’t move and the hydraulics are not engaging, you might have a simple solution if this is the first time you have used your splitter. First, check to see if the shipping plugs are still in place by disconnecting the hydraulic hoses, removing the plugs, and putting them back on.

If this isn’t the first time you have used your splitter, and it just started, something else might be blocking the hoses. You can remove the hoses and flush them or change the hydraulic fluid. You may have a blocked control valve which can also be cleared by flushing the hydraulic system.

As seen, common issues surround engine maintenance and hydraulics. Many problems are simply from regular wear and tear and are uncomplicated to fix with new filters, seals, and hoses. However, if problems persist or seem worse despite your care and attention, you may need to take a closer look at the piston and replace it.

Log splitters are made for heavy, long-term use, and the materials used in their design are durable and efficient. Because of this, most companies also provide excellent customer support to help narrow down any issues you may be experiencing. There are also manuals included to help solve your problems.

The hydraulic pump controls the flow of fluid within the pump system. Most log splitter hydraulic pumps will be two-stage pumps, meaning that they can force the liquid within them to move in two different directions, which allows for the hydraulic arm to be pushed forward to split wood, and also retracted so the machine can be reloaded with a new log. The seals on these pumps wear over time and eventually can cause hydraulic fluid to leak out of the system. If fluid is leaking from your pump, disassemble it and replace all seals. When repairing a damaged pump it is important to carefully analyze and address the rest of the hydraulic system. When the pump fails it will often send metal debris throughout the hydraulic system. At a minimum it will be necessary to thoroughly flush the hydraulic fluid and replace the filter. Debris left in the system can quickly ruin a new pump.

Troubleshooting your log splitter really isn’t as daunting a task as you’d think it’d be. Thanks to the great design of our log splitters, pretty much nothing can go wrong which is unfixable. We stock all the spare parts you could ever need, but first, we need to work out the problem.

There are four main categories of troubleshooting; power issues, log splitter ram failing to move correctly, oil leakage or the log splitter failing to split logs.

It may often appear as though something critical has affected your log splitter, such as the ram failing to move or it appears as though there’s no power getting to the log splitter. More often than not, there are small errors that can be easily fixed.

If you’re not comfortable playing around with your log splitter – let us take a look for you. We offer a log splitter repair service, no matter the brand. We offer a full repair of your log splitter. This includes collecting your machine, repairing it in our workshop and delivery back to yourself. The repair may include a full strip-down, rebuild or fitting of replacement parts.

Check that the plastic knob of the lever is screwed on fully. If this becomes unscrewed it then prevents the lever from being pushed right down, and this prevents the log splitter from operating.

The oil level in your log splitter may be running low, you can check this by using the dipstick. You can also run a quick test by raising the front end of the log splitter on a block of wood or something similar. If you raise the front of the log splitter and the log splitter then starts operating as normal, then this is a clear sign that you are low on oil.

This is similar to the last, but when the log splitter is pointing downhill it struggles to circulate the fluid right around the machine. This causes it to fail when operating.

The log splitter should always be operated on level ground or pointing uphill. If your log splitter is failing to split any logs, 90% of the time this will be the issue. If the log splitter is not pointing downhill then it’s likely low oil.

Now that we’ve covered the most common issues and quick fixes. Let’s look at some of the rare problems which can affect the performance of the log splitter.

Place the log splitter back upright and try the splitter again, if it produces the same noise then loosen the bolts a little from the end of the pump (13mm) and try again.

The capacitor in the electric motor can fail from misuse over time. When operating the log splitter, we strongly advise that you press the power button before operating the lever, this allows time for the motor to gather speed before attempting to split logs.

As stated previously, the capacitor failing will also stop the motor from starting up. After you have checked the previous solutions, unplug the log splitter from the mains. Then remove the six screws on the outside of the switch cover, take the switch cover off and you will then see the capacitor.

Pump gears binding is an issue that can sometimes present itself within a log splitter which would cause a trip. This is easily fixed by loosening each of the 6 bolts on the back of the pump by ¼ of a turn and then checking to see if the motor turns freely.

Pump gears can also get jammed. To fix this you should remove the 6 bolts from the pump and separate the motor and pump. You can then check the gears for any silicone sealant or other material. When you’re reassembling, the torque for the bolts is 12 ft-lb, 16 N m.

If the ram of the log splitter is not returning fully or is jerking upon return, there are a couple of fixes you can perform to get it back up and running smoothly.

First, check that the moving carriage isn’t obstructed. You can do this by checking underneath the blade/pusher and down the sides of the carriage for any splinters of wood that may be obstructing the carriage.

This one is fairly simple to figure out but check the log bed of the splitter for a build-up of sap. You can then also apply a thin layer of workshop grease to the bed to allow it to operate more smoothly. Avoid using WD-40 to grease the bed as this can lead to the log splitter ram ‘juddering’ rather than solving the issue.

Another possibility is that the ram is bent. Remove the DuoCut blade from the splitter. If the ram does not return after removing the DuoCut blade, loosen the 2 rear lock nuts on the carriage arms and remove the 2 nuts in front of the crosspiece. You can then remove the carriage from the log splitter. If the ram does not return then the next part is a bit tricky so give us a call.

.On that two stage pump it could have sucked some dirt,dust whatever into the pump and stuck the pump bypass valve which switches it to high pressure low volume .That valve should be set at around 900-1000 PSI . The relief valve in the main control valve is where the max system pressure is set on most splitters

If you can figure out what brand of pump it is more than likely an internet search will provide some troubleshooting information .You might try "Surplus Center" hydraulics which has some information available .

A manual log splitter is a machine that comes in handy while preparing for your firewood, and nothing is more distressing than to find out that your device is malfunctioning. This feels worse when somebody depends on you, and you are unable to provide them with your service because your machine has busted.

Generally, log splitters do not have many problems associated with them. To determine the cause of the trouble, you need to do a bit of exploration based on the type of model of your splitter. The basic design of your machine can help you to identify the exact reason for the malfunctioning.

If you have a basic idea of your log splitter’s working, you can promptly rectify most of the problems on your own. Therefore, we have prepared a guide that explains some of the most common problems in your log splitter and gets your busted machine running again.

Nowadays, most of the log splitters available in the market use hydraulics to power the machine with force required to cut different sized woods. Therefore, maximum log splitters deal with problems in their power source used to provide the hydraulic pressure.

If your electric engine is not starting, then the first step you need to perform is to check your power source. This is the most common problem with log splitters having an electric engine.

Unluckily, electric engines are not meant to work quickly. It usually requires professional assistance to locate the machine’s error, and most of the time, purchasing a new splitter is more profitable than bearing the repair cost.

Gas engines have a simple manufactural design and are very easy to work on. Gas log splitters use a 4-stroke engine as the power source and hence have a high maintenance cost as they require frequent maintenance.

Provide the right level of engine oil and gas for the proper working of the splitter. When you do not need the splitter for an extended period, drain fuels before keeping them in storage; otherwise, old oil and gas can clog up your carburetor.

Regularly check the spark plug of your splitter and replace it if you notice carbon build-up because it is one of the main reasons the engine will not turn on.

After using the log-splitter, do not forget to clean the air filters and change them if you notice sawdust clogging. These clogging block the flow of air and bog down the engine.

Hydraulic issues in log splitters are typical like vibration or shaking, log splitter will not retract, etc. They are relatively easy to locate and troubleshoot. Hydraulic systems are based on the mechanism where a pressurized fluid is released, which acts as the driving force and powers the machine to split the log.

If you notice that your splitter will not retractor seems weak to hold the pressure and is bogging down, which indicates that there is more pressure compared to the size of the hydraulic pump.

If there is a vibration or shaking while using the splitter, you need to check the hydraulic oil level and refill it if needed. Sometimes low oil level also causes vibration in the machine. If the oil levels are at the exact mark, then there is a probability that there is air in the lines.

Sometimes everything seems to be running precisely in your device but, then too, the wedge is unable to split the log. First, in such circumstances, make sure the piece of wood is placed at a proper angle and is not too long.

This issue arises if the ram has extended and the splitter will not retract quickly. It is probably because the nut has come out of the piston. The pressure may have pushed the ram forward, and the splitter will not retract.

A hydraulic log splitter uses a hydraulic piston to get the driving force. An oil leak or air in the system will cause a loss in this driving force, resulting in the plate’s slow movement.

Open the bleed valve, first check the hydraulic oil level, refill it if needed, and then store your splitter in a shelter or garage. This will help to keep the oil slightly warmer because oil loses viscosity in cold weather.

In case you notice that your cylinder rods are not moving and the hydraulics are not engaging. In that case, you might have a pretty straightforward solution. If you have used your splitter for the first time, check the shipping plugs and make sure they are still in position.

If not, then all you must do is disconnect the hydraulic hoses and remove the socket’s plugs. Flush them or change the hydraulic fluid: referring to your owner’s manual and then put them back again. Sometimes blocked control valves also cause the problem and need to be cleared by flushing the hydraulic system.

Here we have seen some common problems in log splitters, which can be easily troubleshot by engine maintenance and proper hydraulics. Most of these problems are caused by natural wear and tear in the system and are straightforward to fix by replacing them with new filters, seals, and hoses.

Replacing the piston inside the valves helps sometimes. Still, if in some cases problems persist or seem worse despite all your care and efforts, then you may need to give it a closer look.

The materials used to design the body of the splitter are durable and efficient. Most of the companies in this field provide outstanding customer support to pinpoint issues experienced by you while using their product and solve them.

They also offer user manuals to assist you with your problems. Get your machine registered on purchase and contact customer care if you realize that it is beyond your capabilities and ask them to send their engineers to help.

installing a guage between pump and valve will not tell you which component is bad only that system pressure is low. attach guage directly to pump output, deadheading it start briefly watch pressure build until it no longer rises. or motor starts to bog down. then shut down. don"t run more than a cpl seconds at full pressure. most splitter pumps will make between 2000 to 3000 lbs. if pump makes pressure move on. even 1500 lbs should split straight grained wood.

install guage on the valve where the hose that runs to the power side of cylinder (the backside or side that doesn"t have the ram coming out of it) would be connected. drop hose you disconnected into 5 gallon pail (preferably one with a lid with a bung hole as there may be some splashing ) start splitter put handle in extend position watch guage. guage should go up. no appreciable amount of fluid should come out of hose at this point unless you have handle in wrong direction. shut back down. if your getting good pressure hook that hose back up run ram to extended position. shut down and remove other hose.

now that you know you have good pressure at the pump and at the valve if it still wont move its most likely the cylinder. start her back up put handle back in extend position and see if it pushes fluid through the cylinder and into the bucket.

one other suggestion I can make judged on the comment that "pump looks like old one". if you bought it on ebay or something to save money (nothing wrong with saving a few bucks) make sure it is the right rotation. cw vs ccw. if its wrong it would fail the pump test at step 1 anyway.

This product is a Hi-Lo cast iron hydraulic gear pump with max pressures of 900 PSI for the low pressure and 3000 PSI for the high pressure pump. Typical applications are log splitters and presses, where alternating low and high pressures are required to move a cylinder.

The cylinder is driven by hydraulic oil, under pressure, produced by a hydraulic pump. An engine, or electric motor, drives the pump shaft, and supplies the power for the system. The oil from the pump runs to a hydraulic valve, which provides control over the movement of the cylinder.

The oil source is a hydraulic reservoir (tank) which is connected directly to the inlet port of the pump. Most use AW32 viscosity (approx 10 wt.) hydraulic oil, which is of course an important part of any hydraulic system. There is a vented filler cap on the reservoir which allows air to “breathe” in and out. A simple air filter in it keeps dirt out.

A hydraulic relief valve controls the maximum pressure which can be created by the pump, and is a safety valve. It is usually located within the housing of the directional control valve. It is rarely in the pump. Without a relief, most hydraulic pumps will build pressure until something breaks, like a hose, or the cylinder, or the pump itself.

Most log splitters use a 2-stage gear pump which is a special type of hydraulic pump. They are rarely used in any other hydraulic systems. But they are widely available and relatively cheap because so many are sold for logsplitters.

Let’s start with the basics. Gear pumps are the most common, and least expensive type of hydraulic pump. They consist of 2 shafts, each with a gear which meshes with its twin to drive oil from the inlet port to the outlet or pressure port. Oil is trapped in the cavities between the gear teeth and carried around the outside of the gear toward the outlet port. The meshed gear teeth in the center keep oil from returning to the inlet side. One shaft sticks out of the housing and is driven by the engine. The other shaft is hidden within the pump housing. The one gear drives the other.

Two stage pumps give splitters great performance using small engines. A 2-stage pump consists of 2 gear pumps in a single housing, and a bypass valve. One gear set is about 3 times the size (length) of the second. When the valve is in neutral & system pressure is low, both gear sets are pumping oil into the system. With a “16 GPM” pump, they will pump 16 GPM when the pump shaft is rotated (by the engine) at 3400 RPM. That is, the combination of the outputs from both gear sets equals 16 GPM.

When the valve is shifted it moves the cylinder quite quickly. But when the log hits the wedge, the resistance increases, and pressure is backed up against the pump. Now the bypass valve comes into play. When the back pressure reaches 700 – 800 PSI, oil from the larger set of gears is allowed to pass back to the inlet side of the pump (at almost 0 PSI) rather than being forced out the pressure port. So the only oil being forced out is from the small gear set. This takes a lot less horsepower and allows the use of a reasonably small engine to develop the high pressure necessary to split wood, while giving the cylinder good speed when not under a heavy load (which is most of the time). The opening and closing of the bypass is automatic, activated by the oil pressure. It’s so smooth it’s usually difficult to notice it is happening. So 2-stage pumps give our log splitters the best of both: high pressure when we need it, and high speed the rest of the time.

We sometimes see home made log splitters with single stage pumps, often reused from another type of machine. They are usually quite slow unless a much bigger than normal engine is used.

The cylinder is the “actuator” of the system: it converts the hydraulic pressure and flow into force to split the wood, and speed to make it efficient. The larger the cylinder diameter the more force (tonnage) it puts out, but the slower it will go: it takes more oil to fill, and so takes longer.

The most common size for log splitters is “4 x 24″, 4″ bore by 24″ stroke. With 2500 PSI from the pump it can exert over 31,000 lbs of push force. To compare, a 5″ bore cylinder can produce 49,000 lbs force with the same pump, over 1 1/2 times as much. But the 5” cylinder will go 36% slower, which is why they are not common on ordinary splitters.

Yes, I know, there are plenty of log splitters rated for much more force. And my 4 cylinder Toyota may be rated for 140 MPH. It’s a sales game. The big numbers are theoretical maximums, not practical working pressures.

1. Pushed one way it shunts oil from the pump to the base port of the cylinder, causing it to extend. And it simultaneously allows oil from the rod-end port of the cylinder to flow into the return line.

2. When let go, the spool springs back to the neutral position; the oil from the pump is allowed straight through to the return port where it is recycled back to the tank, and the cylinder ports are blocked so the cylinder is stopped and held in position.

The relief valve consists of a heavy spring with a compression adjustment screw, and a ball or poppet against a seat. This is in a channel between the pressure inlet port and the return port, with the ball or poppet blocking the flow. If the oil pressure reaches the adjustment setting, perhaps 2500 PSI, it overcomes the spring pressure, the poppet backs off, and oil from the pump is allowed to bypass directly to the valve outlet, thus limiting the maximum oil pressure in the system. At normal working pressures, the relief remains closed and is not involved in the circuit.

The hydraulic oil for the system is stored in a tank, usually steel. Reservoirs serve two important functions: They allow the oil to settle any air bubbles and contamination particles; and they allow the oil to cool while it’s not circulating.

To provide sufficient cooling, the tank should be sized to hold at least one minute’s worth of oil. (16 gallons for a 16 GPM pump.) Oil which is too hot, 180F, will harden seals, and will be too thin to lubricate the spinning pump parts, causing early pump failure. We recommend 150F as the working maximum oil temperature.

The suction and return ports should be on the sides of the tank, a couple of inches above the bottom to avoid any sludge which may have settled there. The suction line should be low enough to never ingest any air, and the return should be low so as not to stir any air into the oil. Further, the 2 ports should be separated enough to avoid the hot returning oil from being immediately sucked back into the pump line.

Every good hydraulic system has a filter to remove fine contamination particles from the oil. The recommended rating is 10 microns, (10 microns equals 0.00039 inches; about 1/5 the diameter of a human hair). A filter this fine would plug the suction line, so it must be installed on the return, typically right at the tank return port.

Suction strainers in the tank are 100 micron or more, so can not catch the fine, damaging particles like the return filter. And if they get plugged they may starve the pump, greatly shortening its life. They are not recommended.

Hydraulic oil is blended with chemical additives beneficial for hydraulic systems. They help resist wear, shed contamination, maintain viscosity when cold, resist foaming, rust and oxidation, etc. Typical viscosity is around SAE 10, usually labelled AW32.

Hydraulic oil is not subjected to the burning temperatures of combustion engines, so it usually lasts a long time. The recommendation is to change oil if it is excessively dirty, or milky (water contamination) or smells bad or burned. If not, it’s better to just change the filter and save the cost of an oil change.

How to get more force? Either more pressure, or a larger cylinder. The pressure you probably can’t change much. Check the relief setting on your directional valve. It controls the maximum. We don’t suggest more than 2500 PSI, which is the practical maximum for most gear pumps. Yes they are sometimes rated at 3000 PSI or more. But that’s like driving your car 125 MPH. It may be able to do it, but all the time? Not such a good idea. Virtually all logsplitter pumps are rated for the same pressure. What’s the difference between pumps? Bigger gears, which produce more flow, which means more speed. And requires more horsepower to drive them. To get more force, you’ll need a larger bore cylinder. If you want the same speed as a smaller cylinder, you’ll need a larger pump, and probably a larger engine to drive it.

How to get more speed? Either more flow (GPM), or a smaller cylinder. The smaller cylinder won’t require more power, but will produce less force. More flow comes from a larger pump. So you’ll get the same force but will need to supply more horsepower to the new pump.

One other factor to consider for log splitter cylinders is the rod diameter. The larger the rod, the faster the cylinder will retract. (It takes less oil to fill the return end of the cylinder.) Of course it also increases the cost of the cylinder, but if you have the choice, choose the cylinder with the larger rod.

Keep your hydraulics in motion with a wood splitter hydraulic pump from RuggedMade. Designed to meet the needs of high-force log splitting, our precision 2-stage hydraulic pumps ensure cylinders perform smoothly and rapidly, helping to shave down cycle times.

Our expanded line of one and two-stage log splitter pumps are constructed to produce up to 3,000 PSI and can also be used at the heart of a variety of hydraulic applications to keep fluid flowing freely and steadily, throughout the life of your machine.

A broken flexible pump coupler, clogged hydraulic fluid filter, failed hydraulic control valve, broken hydraulic pump or faulty hydraulic cylinder can prevent the hydraulic cylinder from extending the wedge on a log splitter.

Accessing the flexible pump coupler is fairly easy, so check that part first. The flexible pump coupler connects the engine drive shaft to the hydraulic pump. The coupler is designed to break if the hydraulic pump seizes up, protecting the engine from damage. Because the flexible coupler is plastic, the coupler can deteriorate over time and crack or break. Replace the flexible coupler if it"s broken or damaged.

If the flexible coupler broke, try to rotate the hydraulic pump drive shaft with the drive shaft disconnected from the engine drive shaft to check for a locked-up hydraulic pump. If you can"t rotate the hydraulic pump shaft, you"ll likely need to replace the hydraulic pump. You"ll also need to replace the hydraulic pump if it"s leaking hydraulic fluid because the pump can"t build up hydraulic fluid pressure to extend the wedge to split a piece of wood if its seals leak.

Hydraulic fluid leaking from the hydraulic control valve or hydraulic cylinder often indicates that the leaking part has failed. You"ll likely need to replace the control valve and/or cylinder if they leak hydraulic fluid.

Although it doesn"t happen often, a clogged hydraulic fluid filter can impede hydraulic fluid flow and prevent the cylinder from extending the wedge. Check the hydraulic fluid filter and replace the filter if it"s clogged.